january-2012

RINO
Giovanni Passerini is the chef and proprietor of this
small, friendly restaurant that reinvents Italian food
for a savvy modern gourmet. Rino is the chef ’s
boyhood nickname and though Passerini was born in
Rome, he moved to Paris because ‘Romans only want
to eat their own traditional food and there’s very little
room for creativity or experimentation’. He worked
for Alain Passard and then at Le Chateaubriand. Out
of this experience, Rino was born.
Th e room holds about 20 and of course it’s full every
night, despite being situated in the no-man’s-land far
to the east of Bastille. You sit on red leather banquettes
or on tall wooden stools at high tables, and there are a
few tables outside on the pavement for hopefuls who
turn up without a reservation. Th e kitchen stays open
late and people often arrive at 11pm.
Along one side of the restaurant is a cramped open
kitchen and serving counter where Passerini and his
assistants prepare remarkable food. Th e chef is
constantly dashing out to serve the food himself,
chatting to customers, sharing the experience. And
interestingly, though the Italian quarter of Paris is
traditionally the fi fth arrondisement, Rino attracts
many Italians prepared to make the journey.
Milan-based Paolo Marchi, an infl uential food and
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restaurant writer, recently hailed Passerini as the best
Italian chef working outside his homeland.
Th e menu changes frequently in step with seasonal
products and the chef ’s whim, and the cooking is full
of surprising textures and fl avours. He off ers just two
set menus: four courses at €38 and six courses at €55.
Th e food is so light and delicious and beautiful to
look at, you’d be mad not to go for six.
You might be off ered ravioli fi lled with succulent
onion confi t and served with oysters, green herbs and
mushrooms. Or there’s a tranche of sea bass with
lightly cooked sweetcorn, courgette and tomato and
the bitter herb purslane. Tiny thimble shapes of
gnocchi are served with baby squid, baby leeks and the
savoury umami hit of a smoky pork emulsion. Th e
cheese course is basic, without cutlery or bread, and you
may feel a bit bourgeois to ask for it, but no-one minds.
Th ere are lots of Italian wines, many by the glass,
along with artisanal fruit juice and very good coff ee.
Th e house white is a refreshing Verdicchio from the
Marche, the red a luscious Barbera from Piemonte.
Th is is a very enjoyable place with captivating
personal service and a great atmosphere.
46 rue Trousseau, 75011 Paris, +33 (0)1 4806 9585,
www.rino-restaurant.com
IMAGE©STANISLASLIBAN