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The universal geography : earth and its inhabitants

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EIVEES OF AMAZONIA. 97<br />

route has been followed by all recent explorers, sucb as D'Orbigny, Church, <strong>and</strong><br />

Keller-Leuzingcr. <strong>The</strong> hydrograi^hic chart prepared in 1878 to a scale of TinrVo"o"<br />

is based on the careful surveys of Selfridge.<br />

From the Guajara Guassu Falls on the Mamore to the last cataracts of Santo<br />

Antonio the total incline scarcely exceeds 200 feet in a distance of about 240 miles.<br />

<strong>The</strong> highest cascade, that of Ribeirao, some 12 miles below the Beni, has a drop<br />

of 40 feet, the 45 others varying from 30 feet to a few inches; but the<br />

whole system presents so many difficulties to the navigation that the native boatmen<br />

take from two to three months to make the ascent from the lower to the<br />

upper reaches.<br />

Below these obstructions the Madeira flows mainly north-east parallel to the<br />

Purus with a uniform, though somewhat rapid current, which is nowhere less than<br />

16 feet deep at low water, <strong>and</strong> in some places exceeds 500 feet, with a total mean<br />

discharge of no less than 1,400,000 cubic feet per second. It enters the Amazons<br />

through numerous isl<strong>and</strong>- studded channels, <strong>and</strong> throws off one branch, the<br />

Parana Mirim (" Little River ") which joins the main stream about 190 miles<br />

lower down, thus enclosing the vast isl<strong>and</strong> of Tupinambaramas.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Trombetas, Tapajoz, <strong>and</strong> Xingu.<br />

Beyond the Madeira confluence the largest affluent on the north side is the<br />

Trombetas, which collects the surface waters of the savannas, <strong>and</strong> on <strong>its</strong> course<br />

to the Amazons develops a ramifj'ing lake due to the alluvial matter deposited<br />

by the mainstream about the confluence. Higher uji similar phenomena are<br />

presented by the TJrubu, TJatuma, Yamunda (Neamunda or Cumery), all carefully<br />

explored by Barbosa Rodrigues. Farther down the Paru <strong>and</strong> the Jary, which<br />

descend from the Tumuc-Humac Mountains, have a more regular course, freer<br />

from stagnant waters, but obstructed at intervals by rapids <strong>and</strong> even by cascades.<br />

Crevaux descended the Jary <strong>and</strong> the Paru in 1877-79 at the risk of his life.<br />

On the south side the Amazons is joined below the Madeira by the Tapajoz,<br />

so called from the Tapajocos Indians, who have been completely exterminated by<br />

the Portuguese. Its two headstreams, the Arinos <strong>and</strong> the Juruena, rise in<br />

Matto Grosso, near the sources of the Paraguay, <strong>and</strong> after their junction the<br />

Tapajoz flows parallel with the Madeira north-eastwards to the scarp of the<br />

plateau. Here it is obstructed by a series of 16 cataracts, beyond which it<br />

forms a broad navigable watercourse, flowing between wooded banks for 300<br />

miles to a point where the navigation is again interrupted by the Salto Augusto,<br />

the only cascade which is impassable at all seasons.<br />

For the rest of <strong>its</strong> course of 220 miles the Tapajoz forms a sluggish stream<br />

nearly as dark as the Rio Negro, which gradually exp<strong>and</strong>s into a broad lagoon<br />

with scarcely perceptible current. Like that of the Trombetas, Lake VHlafranca,<br />

as this flooded depression is called, owes <strong>its</strong> existence to the sedimentary matter<br />

deposited by the Amazons at the confluence. <strong>The</strong> Tapajoz presents the shortest<br />

natural route between the Amazons <strong>and</strong> Plate estuaries.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Xingu, last great affluent of the Amazons proper, rises on the same<br />

VOL. XIX. H

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