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Hippo | July 1 - 7, 2010 | Page 42
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Making a case for pink
Why rosés are perfect for summer
By Paulette Eschrich
food@hippopress.com
Summer is officially in full swing with
the 4th of July weekend on the horizon and
I am compelled to come to the defense of
the much-maligned wine that falls between
white and red, a wine that is particularly
refreshing and versatile for summer — and
year-round — sipping.
Traditional rosés have been around for a
long time. Ranging from somewhat sweet
like the Portuguese Mateus and Lancers
(OK, admit that you drank these when you
were in college and you’ll be dating yourselves!)
to bone dry like the French rosés
from Tavel to sweet and bubbly like the
Italian Brachetto D’Acqui, rosé always
has a place at the European table. My love
affair with rosé started when I was 19 and
I spent the summer as an au pair just north
of Lyon, in France. There I was introduced
to the light, fruity reds from Beaujolais and
the roses from Anjou and Tavel. Many years
later, as an expatriate in Geneva, I renewed
my acquaintance with Switzerland’s Oeil de
Perdrix, translated as “eye of the partridge,”
which is made from Pinot Noir.
There are several ways to make rosé (I’ll
get to blush and “white” rosés in a minute).
Saignée, a French term meaning “bled,”
occurs when the winemaker runs off or
bleeds the juice from a red wine after the
initial crush. The length of time the juice has
stayed in contact with the grape skins before
the run-off will determine the depth of color
in the rosé. The remaining juice becomes
more concentrated red wine because of
the ratio of juice to the skins. The second
method, maceration, assumes that all of
the crushed juice is destined to become a
rosé. As with saignée, the winemaker monitors
the color of the wine, tannins and other
flavor components and removes all of the
juice from contact with the skins when the
rosé is ready for fermentation. Rosé sparkling
wines are most frequently made by
adding a small amount of finished red wine
(Pinot Noir in the case of Champagnes) to
the bubbly to achieve the desired hue. An
inexpensive, basic rosé may be created by
blending finished white and red wines, but
the result is usually inferior to the first two
methods.
So where does White Zinfandel fit in this
picture? The Trinchero family and their original
winery, Sutter Home, started producing
a pale rosé from Zinfandel in 1972 that they
marketed as an Oeil de Perdrix. Turns out
the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco & Firearms
wanted an English name on the label so
they added “A White Zinfandel Wine.” Forward
to the 1975 vintage when the saignée
Zinfandel juice refused to ferment to the
targeted dryness, and the winemaker set it
aside. After a couple of weeks, Trinchero
tasted the problematic batch of wine only
to discover that the sweet pink tasted pretty
good. By 1987, Sutter Home White Zinfandel
was the top-selling premium wine in the
United States.
Just like the movie Sideways boosted
DRINK
sales of Pinot Noir and caused Merlot sales
to tank, the rise in popularity of White Zinfandel
and related sweet blush wines caused
a decline in sales of traditional, dry rosés.
The past five years have seen a dramatic
shift in the acceptance of rosé. Wine Spectator
and Wine Enthusiast magazines have
featured cover page spreads, blogs and
newspaper columnists are touting the versatility
and variety of rosés on the market,
and more wineries are adding dry rosés to
their product lines. Just a couple of weeks
ago Wine Spectator Online featured a video
titled “Real Men Drink Pink.”
Rosés can be and have been made from
just about any red grape or blend of red
grapes, and can be still or sparkling. In
southern France, most rosés are made
from Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault. Loire
rosés may be Pinot Noir or Cabernet Franc.
Argentines use Malbec to make still and
sparkling rosés. Whether it’s called rosé,
rosato, rosado or Oeil de Perdrix, with the
advent of summer I invite you to explore
the delights of pink wine.
Paulette’s pink picks:
2009 Rhone valley vineyards “la vieille
Ferme” Rosé, ventoux AOC, $8.99
(NH Code 31320)
Made from Grenache and Cinsault by
the Perrin Family, who also makes the
acclaimed Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape,
this is a great value and
consistently delivers classic notes of watermelon
and strawberry. Available at many
NH State Liquor Stores.
2009 i’M Wines Deep Rosé, Napa valley,
$12.99 (NH Code 46018)
Isabel Mondavi’s son crafts this bold, dry
rosé in the saignée method from 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon grapes sourced from the
family’s vineyards. Unusual and enchanting,
this is truly a red wine drinkers’ pink!
Available at many NH State Liquor Stores.
2009 Joseph Mellot “le Rabault”
Sancerre Rosé, loire, $27.99 (NH Code
14038)
Salmon in color, this wine made from
100% Pinot Noir delivers a subtle minerality
with strawberries and cream on the
mid-palate. Definitely a food wine; it with
melon & prosciutto, and serve chilled but
not icy cold. Available at the Wine Society
in Nashua.
2008 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé,
Provence, $34.99 (NH Code 36493)
Another salmon-hued rosé, the Bandol
is made from 50% Mourvedre, 28% Grenache,
20% Cinsault and 2% Carignan
using a combination of the saignée and
maceration methods. Wine Spectator rated
this wine at 90 points. Have patience and let
the wine open up in your glass for the full
aromatic impact. Available at selected NH
State Liquor stores.
Paulette Eschrich is a dedicated oenophile
and former wine retailer who runs a
wine book club and conducts custom inhome
wine tastings.