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Previous page: The Tivoli Gardens<br />

This page (from top): The neo-Baroque<br />

Christiansborg Palace; Christiania; Rosenborg Castle;<br />

Royal guards at Amalienborg Palace<br />

PHOTO: GEORGE W. RUSSELL<br />

statue that honours children’s author Hans<br />

Christian Andersen. Much vandalized over the<br />

past century, the mermaid made an uneventful<br />

visit to Shanghai for the 2010 Expo.<br />

No visit to Copenhagen is complete without<br />

checking out Strøget, the city’s largest shopping<br />

street and one <strong>of</strong> Europe’s longest retail avenues.<br />

It <strong>of</strong>fers a range <strong>of</strong> shops from high-end boutiques<br />

to cheap chic, famous brand names and<br />

small-scale local artisans. Denmark’s top brands<br />

include design house Georg Jensen for jewellery,<br />

homeware and gifts, and shoe specialist Ecco.<br />

Another not-to-be missed area is Christiania,<br />

the hippie freetown that is one <strong>of</strong> the city’s most<br />

popular tourist attractions. While the streets are<br />

not unsafe, recreational drugs are sold openly<br />

and visitors are discouraged from photographing<br />

the locals.<br />

Copenhagen has oodles <strong>of</strong> Nordic culture.<br />

The Statens Museum for Kunst is the premier art<br />

gallery and features examples by Modigliani,<br />

Picasso, Titian and Rembrandt as well as Danish<br />

masters. An exhibition there in December showcases<br />

Danish art after 1900.<br />

Other great art collections include Ny Carlsberg<br />

Glyptotek, the museum founded by the<br />

brewer Carl Jacobsen (who donated the Little<br />

Mermaid to the city), and the Kunstindustrimuseet,<br />

which is devoted to design.<br />

Despite its laidback attitude, Copenhagen<br />

has a vibrant nightlife. The Nyhavn neighbourhood<br />

<strong>of</strong>fers bars and cafes on the picturesque<br />

waterfront, while the upmarket Nørrebro and<br />

Vesterbro districts house some <strong>of</strong> the city’s best<br />

clubs and wine bars.<br />

Scandinavian cuisine was once thought <strong>of</strong><br />

as little more than pickled herring, hot dogs and<br />

meatballs with occasional servings <strong>of</strong> red cabbage,<br />

but the region’s chefs have been acclaimed<br />

in recent decades.<br />

Some would thank René Redzepi, founder <strong>of</strong><br />

Noma, the restaurant near Christiania thought by<br />

some critics to be the best and most innovative in<br />

the world now that Spain’s experimental El Bulli<br />

has closed. However, Icelandic curd, Greenland<br />

musk ox meat and Finnish reindeer blood – never<br />

mind the ground ant paste and cockroaches on its<br />

recent menus – might not be to everyone’s taste.<br />

Copenhagen abounds in tasty local food such<br />

as salmon, sausage and venison, <strong>of</strong>ten paired<br />

with local fruit such as lingonberries. Don’t miss<br />

winter treats such as æbleskiver (apple dumplings)<br />

or flødebolle (chocolate marshmallows).<br />

Where to eat<br />

• BioM Sophisticated organic dining.<br />

Fredericiagade 78. 3332-2466.<br />

• Kokkeriet One-star Michelin take on<br />

Danish classics. Kronprinsessegade 64.<br />

3315-2777.<br />

• Noma René Redzepi’s groundbreaking<br />

cuisine. Strandgade 93.<br />

3296-3297.<br />

• <strong>Public</strong> House Gastropub British with<br />

a Danish twist. Vester Voldgade 25.<br />

7026-2320.<br />

• Relæ Christian Puglisi’s hotspot.<br />

Jægersborggade 41. 3696-6609.<br />

Where to stay<br />

• Axel Hotel Guldsmeden Chic<br />

and environmentally responsible.<br />

Helgolandsgade 7-11. 3331-3266.<br />

• CPH Living Floating 12-room<br />

boutique hotel. 1C Langebrogade.<br />

6160-8546.<br />

• First Hotel Twentyseven Compact<br />

but pampering. Løngangstræde 27.<br />

7027-5627.<br />

• Nimb Centrally located luxury.<br />

Bernstorffsgade 5. 8870-0000.<br />

• Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Elegant<br />

boutique hotel near Tivoli Gardens.<br />

Hammerichsgade 1. 3815-6500.<br />

What to see<br />

• Amalienborg Palace Winter home<br />

<strong>of</strong> the royal family. Amalienborgs.<br />

3312-2186.<br />

• Louisiana Museum <strong>of</strong> Modern Art<br />

Exciting collection north <strong>of</strong> the city.<br />

Strandvej 13, Humlebæk. 4919-0719.<br />

• Rosenborg Castle Home to the<br />

Royal Treasure. Øster Voldgade 4A.<br />

3315-3286.<br />

• Statens Museum for Kunst Fine<br />

national gallery. Sølvgade 48-50.<br />

3374-8494.<br />

• Tivoli Gardens Amusement<br />

park and “pleasure garden.”<br />

Vesterbrogade 3. 3315-1001.<br />

• Vikingeskibsmuseet Showcase<br />

<strong>of</strong> Denmark’s ancient ships and<br />

seafarers, 40km from Copenhagen.<br />

Vindeboder 12, Roskilde.<br />

4630-0200.<br />

December 2012 57

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