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Hans-Sachs-Straße - Emirates.com

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• UNderStANd FiNANCiAl<br />

arithmetic, a P & L account,<br />

and how important it is<br />

to use your cash wisely,<br />

i.e. to pay your small and<br />

independent suppliers as<br />

soon as you can.<br />

• iNSPire, leAd FroM<br />

the front and <strong>com</strong>municate.<br />

Be there, even if you’re<br />

not that <strong>com</strong>petent. An<br />

Australian restaurateur<br />

summed this up when he<br />

said a restaurateur must<br />

‘loiter with intent’.<br />

• APPreCiAte thAt the<br />

two most important pieces<br />

of paper in any restaurant<br />

are not the menu and the<br />

wine list as every TV<br />

show maintains they<br />

are but the lease and the<br />

alcohol license.<br />

taurants in Shanghai and Beijing.<br />

While many cities have been revived<br />

by the achievements of these restaurateurs,<br />

another aspect of our rapidly<br />

changing lives seems to be ensuring<br />

that the skills of the restaurateur will<br />

continue to be in demand.<br />

Restaurants make up one particular<br />

aspect of the retail industry, but they<br />

share, with only the health and beauty<br />

segment, a great advantage over all the<br />

others and that is that their sales are impervious<br />

to the internet. While online<br />

purchases force the closure of what were<br />

once regarded as seemingly impregnable<br />

high street names as customers switch to<br />

buying on line, this is something that cannot<br />

be replicated for restaurants. If you<br />

want a pre-theatre drink, lunch or dinner<br />

at a new restaurant that has been well reviewed,<br />

then the only option is to go out<br />

physically to enjoy them. Restaurants cannot<br />

be experienced via cyberspace.<br />

And as restaurants have <strong>com</strong>e to<br />

play a greater role in our lives than ever<br />

before, as rents rise and we cook less,<br />

despite the growing number of cookery<br />

books, the honourable profession of the<br />

restaurateur has been boosted by two<br />

other developments.<br />

The first is that the restaurant business<br />

harbours very few secrets. Selling<br />

prices on the menu are, by law, on pub-<br />

96<br />

OpeN skIes / maRch 2013<br />

The front page of every<br />

newspaper carries enough<br />

shocks and surprises. We<br />

have reached a point where<br />

we no longer want them on<br />

the plate<br />

lic display, and there are very few variables<br />

in the main cost elements of rent,<br />

wages or buying the essential food and<br />

drink. It is a business with a distinctly<br />

low-cost entry point, however much<br />

money may subsequently be spent on<br />

the final design.<br />

And, as a result of spending so much<br />

of their working lives in such a transparent<br />

business, restaurateurs are remarkably<br />

frank and generous with their<br />

advice. What struck me most forcibly in<br />

conducting my interviews with these<br />

restaurateurs was quite how open and<br />

willing they were to talk about their<br />

successes and their far more painful<br />

failures. And it transpires that even the<br />

most seemingly successful restaurateur<br />

has had to close at least one restaurant,<br />

with one describing it as, “the most<br />

costly but the most didactic experience<br />

of my career.”<br />

Many of the aspects of the openness<br />

of the restaurateur’s profession<br />

BiG PlAYerS / Drew Nieporent<br />

and Jean-Claude Vrinat

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