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Sicily presents to the ordinary tourist attractions which in number ...

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134 ANTIQUITIES IN THE MUSEUM AT PALERMO.<br />

hand, succeed<strong>in</strong>g races have deeply impressed <strong>the</strong>ir mark<br />

on Sicilian architecture. It is <strong>in</strong>debted <strong>to</strong> Byzantium for<br />

its magnificent mosaics, display<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> conventional forms<br />

adopted under <strong>the</strong> Lower Empire; it derived from Saracen<br />

<strong>in</strong>vaders po<strong>in</strong>ted arches, honey-combed ceil<strong>in</strong>gs, and <strong>in</strong>scriptions<br />

that blend harmoniously with arabesques<br />

lastly, it received from <strong>the</strong> Normans an admixture of<br />

novel elements—<strong>the</strong> chevron, dog-<strong>to</strong>oth, billet-mould<strong>in</strong>g,<br />

and grotesque figures. 2 However, I must not expatiate<br />

on so wide a field, <strong>which</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs have often traversed ;<br />

conf<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g my remarks with<strong>in</strong> narrow limits, I shall <strong>in</strong>vite<br />

attention <strong>to</strong> some objects <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museum at Palermo,<br />

<strong>which</strong>, with a s<strong>in</strong>gle exception, have been al<strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

omitted by English writers or noticed very imperfectly.<br />

It is only right <strong>to</strong> state, <strong>in</strong> lim<strong>in</strong>e, that <strong>the</strong> follow<strong>in</strong>g<br />

notes have little claim <strong>to</strong> orig<strong>in</strong>ality. I am <strong>in</strong>debted for<br />

most of <strong>the</strong>m <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> publications of <strong>the</strong> local antiquaries,<br />

especially Professors Sal<strong>in</strong>as and Basile, but I do not <strong>in</strong><br />

all cases accept <strong>the</strong> conclusions at <strong>which</strong> <strong>the</strong>y have arrived.<br />

I. Some of <strong>the</strong> antiquities at Palermo are already wellknown.<br />

Amongst· <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> most conspicuous are <strong>the</strong><br />

Sel<strong>in</strong>unt<strong>in</strong>e Me<strong>to</strong>pes ; though <strong>in</strong>dividual figures are surpassed<br />

by o<strong>the</strong>rs, as a series extend<strong>in</strong>g from <strong>the</strong> rudest<br />

1 Near Palermo we have <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Palaces<br />

Cuba and Zisa <strong>the</strong> best examples of <strong>the</strong><br />

Saracenic style. Sw<strong>in</strong>burne, vol. ii. p.<br />

222, gives an engrav<strong>in</strong>g of "La Torre<br />

Zizza," but his description of <strong>the</strong> arches<br />

is <strong>in</strong>correct. A more accurate account of<br />

<strong>the</strong>se build<strong>in</strong>gs is supplied by Mr. Sydney<br />

Smirke's " Observations on <strong>the</strong> Orig<strong>in</strong><br />

of <strong>the</strong> Po<strong>in</strong>ted Arch <strong>in</strong> Architecture,"<br />

Archceologia, vol. xxi, pp. 521—533, see<br />

especially pp. 523-529, and at p. 524,<br />

Plate xxiv, " The Kooba near Palermo,"<br />

Plate xxv, " Specimen of <strong>the</strong> enriched<br />

corbell<strong>in</strong>g at <strong>the</strong> Kooba." The former<br />

plate shows " Arabic <strong>in</strong>scriptions, <strong>which</strong><br />

form a k<strong>in</strong>d of frieze over <strong>the</strong> cornice<br />

along <strong>the</strong> whole front." There is a<br />

strik<strong>in</strong>g resemblance between <strong>the</strong> pendent<br />

ornaments <strong>in</strong> this palace and <strong>the</strong> stalactite<br />

work iu <strong>the</strong> m<strong>in</strong>arets at Constant<strong>in</strong>ople.<br />

The Cuba and Zisa are not far apart, and<br />

at a little distance from <strong>the</strong> Porta Nuova,<br />

by <strong>which</strong> <strong>the</strong> traveller proceeds <strong>to</strong> Monreale;<br />

<strong>the</strong>y are marked <strong>in</strong> Baedeker's<br />

Map I Con<strong>to</strong>rni di Palermo, " Guide for<br />

Sou<strong>the</strong>rn Italy and <strong>Sicily</strong>," p. 249. It<br />

is worthy of remark that <strong>the</strong> modern<br />

name of <strong>the</strong> city is derived from <strong>the</strong><br />

Mahometan Bulirma, just as Pamplona<br />

comes from Bambilonah.<br />

We may at first be surprised <strong>to</strong> f<strong>in</strong>d so<br />

few traces of Moorish rule <strong>in</strong> <strong>Sicily</strong>, as<br />

compared with <strong>the</strong> monuments of <strong>the</strong><br />

same people <strong>in</strong> Spa<strong>in</strong> ; but <strong>the</strong> difference<br />

is easily expla<strong>in</strong>ed. The Arabs met with<br />

no formidable resistance from <strong>the</strong> Byzant<strong>in</strong>e<br />

Greeks, and dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>ir three<br />

hundred years' occupation of <strong>the</strong> island,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y were as unsettled as <strong>the</strong> robberstates<br />

of Africa ; <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> latter case <strong>the</strong>y<br />

had <strong>to</strong> encounter an established and wellordered<br />

monarchy, <strong>the</strong>ir energies were<br />

roused by <strong>the</strong> contest, and <strong>the</strong>y founded<br />

a k<strong>in</strong>gdom w r hich was permanent as well<br />

as flourish<strong>in</strong>g ; Gregorovius, "Siciliana,"<br />

pp. 99-101.<br />

2 Gaily Knight, quoted by Dennis,<br />

"Handbook for <strong>Sicily</strong>," Introduction,<br />

p. xxviii. Mr. Fergusson, " His<strong>to</strong>ry of<br />

Architecture," vol ii, p. 270, says <strong>the</strong>re is<br />

hardly anyth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> Sicilian architecture,<br />

<strong>in</strong>dicative of purely Norman teste or<br />

feel<strong>in</strong>gs. I th<strong>in</strong>k that those who have<br />

made a special study of <strong>the</strong> subject will<br />

not be <strong>in</strong>cl<strong>in</strong>ed <strong>to</strong> agree with this op<strong>in</strong>ion.

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