SARAJEVO - In Your Pocket

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22 restaurants Kibe C-4, Vrbanjuša 164, tel. (+387) 33 441 936, www. restorankibe.ba. Clinging to the side of the hill a few kilometres above Baščaršija, this family-run restaurant has been a Sarajevo institution since it opened in 1988. In a beautifully converted house with multiple dining areas, the menu contains all the Bosnian standards at prices similar to what you’ll find in less-inspired settings below, and the food is unanimously considered some of the best in the city. Definitely a must visit on any trip, just make sure to call ahead for reservations as window seats are scarce and demand understandably high. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 5-17). Lovac B-3; B-4, Petrekijina 24, tel. (+387) 33 66 41 76/(+387) 61 10 23 31, info@lovac-sarajevo.com, www. lovac-sarajevo.com. Occupying a hundred year-old villa on the hill above the Cathedral, Lovač (or the Hunter) lives up to its name with a menu full of venison, wild boar and other game meat dishes, as well as pretty much every Bosnian specialty we’ve ever heard of. Appropriately enough the large outdoor seating area has a distinct hunting lodge feel to it, while inside things are a bit statelier - though a fair amount of mounted antlers, horns and heads still adorn the walls. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (KM 8 - 36). PJALB Park Prinčeva B-5, Iza Hrida 7, tel. (+387) 33 22 27 08, fax (+387) 33 53 24 03, www.parkprinceva.ba. You go to sit and have a drink on the terrace at Park Prinčeva, set on the side of a mountain overlooking Sarajevo, for one reason and one reason alone: the view. Especially in summer, it offers the most amazing view all the way up the valley, and allows you to see the whole city stretched underneath you. The staff are courteous, friendly and efficient. The traditional Bosnian food is beyond bland. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (KM 8-22). TALEBX Pod Lipom B-4, Prote Bakovica 6, tel. (+387) 33 44 07 00. On a quiet alley just around the corner from the Sebilj but away from most of the tourist traffic, Pod Lipom is a quaint traditional Bosnian restaurant with a lengthy menu and reasonable prices. There are a lot of hot and cold starters and soups to choose from so it’s great for groups who want to sample a bit of everything. If you want to get on your waiter’s good side ask him about the time Bill Clinton stopped by for some Sarajevski sahan. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (6 - 15 KM). JAB Urban Grill B-3, Prušćakova 8, tel. (+387) 33 44 44 48, ugb@bih.net.ba, www.urbangrill.ba. The Brajlović family had been providing high quality meat to other restaurants for some 60 years before they finally decided to cut out the middle-men and open their own chain of slightly upmarket grills. So far they have two locations in Sarajevo, both of which are a cut above most of the competition in terms of quality and ambience while offering pretty much the same prices. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. (KM 5 - 15). PJBS Željo 1 and 2 B-4, Kundurdžiluk 12, tel. (+387) 33 44 70 00. Sarajevo ‘čevapčiči’ are small, immensely tasty grilled spicy sausages, served with spiced flat bread called ‘somun.’ Traditionally accompanied by a glass of yoghourt, they are great at any time of day. Particularly good hangover food. Named after one of the city’s two main football clubs, Željo does some of the best čevačiči in Bosnia. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (KM 4-7). JBX Indian Taj Mahal Paromlinska 48a, tel. (+387) 61 27 73 84, www.tajmahal-sarajevo.com. If you’ve had your fill of traditional Bosnian fare or are just looking for something different, Sarajevo’s only Indian restaurant is a great option. It’s popular among expats and one of our personal favourites - we seem to find ourselves here at least a couple times a month. They specialise in Tandoori, but pretty much have all the standards covered as well as a large selection of Nepalese dishes. The location is a bit out of the way if you’re not familiar with the city so a taxi is probably a good idea, or you can always take advantage of their delivery service. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (KM 9-17). PALS International 4 Sobe Gospode Safije C-3, Cekalusa 61, tel. (+387) 62 62 28 22, info@placetobe.ba, www.placetobe. ba. ‘Four Rooms of Mrs.Safije’ is the latest venture of the owners of Hacienda cocktail bar and Baghdad Café, and their interior design flair has struck again. Glamorous, dressed-up Sarajevans and foreigners flock to drink Bosnian and Croatian wines and eat fusion food on three floors of this original Austro-Hungarian house set just outside the centre. Themed on the early 1900s love-story between the Bosnian Safija and her Austrian lover, dishes that triumph on the menu include salmon fillet with hollandaise, risotto with prawns and parmesan and chicken marinaded with honey and chilli sauce QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (€2.50-12). PTILX Dr Food B-4, Obala Kulina Bana 10, tel. (+387) 33 20 55 51. Some of the best food in town. Prawn salad with rocket, grilled tuna steaks, fantastic beef, great chips, grilled St.Pierre fish and inventive puddings are just some of the reasons why this small, cosy restaurant overlooking the River Miljacka works so well. Attentive staff, a really good wine list and affordable prices are the others. Everything, from the stylish cutlery to the loos seems to be just right. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (KM 10-28). PTJABXSW Noovi Tina Ujevića bb, tel. (+387) 33 22 22 42. A newish wine-bar and restaurant, Noovi is situated just opposite the British Embassy on a small hill overlooking the centre of town. Run as a joint-venture between the staff of I Tri Bicchiere wineshop and Dr Food, it is a great place to amble along to on a sunny evening, have a bottle of Rioja and enjoy a platter of ham and cheese. If you feel like it there is seating indoors or out, their pasta and pizzas are well worth a try, and the wine-list is beyond extensive. Some of the best staff in town. QOpen 15:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€5-10). PJAB Peppers A-2, Zagrebačka 4a, tel. (+387) 33 20 15 50, restoranbarpeppers@yahoo.com. Set snugly close to the Grbavica headquarters of the Office of the High Representative, or OHR, Bosnia’s foreign overseer, means that this charming, well-run restaurant has an international feel and many international clients. The service is slick and fast, and dishes such as prawn cocktail, broccoli soup and excellent pastas come served up to a background of jazz funk. Good beers too. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. (€6-17). PJAS Pivnica HS B-4, Franjevačka 15, tel. (+387) 33 49 11 00, www.sarajevska-pivara.ba. A favourite among tourists and well-heeled locals alike, this restaurant attached to the Sarajevska Brewery consists of one enormous hall with seating on two levels. The menu has just about anything you can think of, although house specialties seem to include many sausage and veal dishes. Aside from being on the expensive side - most mains with a side are around 20 KM - it’s also a little too nice for its own good, as the flawless décor somewhat compromises the traditional beer hall feel. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (7-40 KM). TJAL Sarajevo In Your Pocket sarajevo.inyourpocket.com
Pravda B-3, Radićeva 4c, tel. (+387) 33 55 82 15, pravdasarajevo@gmail.com, www.pravda.ba. Sarajevo’s beautifully designed bar of the moment boasts comfortable sofas and high stools on which to perch and lounge, and good Croatian and Argentinian wines and snacks. Chicken Satay or tasty Dalmatian prawns with rocket are €7. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (KM 6-24). TJA6EBX To Be or Not to Be Cizmedžluk 5, tel. (+387) 33 23 32 65. There’s not much space in this friendly den of home cooking in Baščaršija, with its two tables on the pavement, two downstairs and three upstairs. Which seems to make it all the nicer to enjoy steaks with grilled vegetables, sea-bass and good pasta as the sound of a Bosnian tin-smith tapping away down the street fills the Sarajevo night. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (KM 6-18). JABX Vinoteka B-3, Skenderija 12, tel. (+387) 33 21 49 96, www.vinoteka.ba. If you’re a visiting celebrity, Bosnian politician, foreign diplomat, member of the Sarajevo glitterati or just somebody who wants to have a fantastic meal with good wine in a beautifully-designed restaurant, you go to Vinoteka. Since opening in 2003 it’s been a prime contender for best restaurant in town. Set on the south side of the river on three floors, downstairs is a cosy wine-bar, while upstairs on two floors is the full restaurant experience. Choose from an extensive and varied menu: favourites such as carrot cream soup with shrimps, turkey breast with lime and honey, and Café de Paris Steak followed by tiramisu are all excellent. Over 100 wines from Bosnia and abroad make the meal sing. Unmissable. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (10-40 KM). PTJALGX Mexican Caballero B-3; C-3, Džidžikova 3, tel. (+387) 33 21 02 66. This popular Mexican restaurant, situated up the hill from BBI near the French and Austrian embassies, sarajevo.inyourpocket.com restaurants serves up large portions of fairly decent Tex-Mex standards like tostadas, burritos and enchiladas, as well as many vegetarian options and some vaguely Mexican-sounding meat dishes that all come with a slight Bosnian twist. The large covered terrace built to resemble some kind of rustic Latin American beach bar is an atmospheric place to enjoy an evening Corona or tequila cocktail along with a starter or two. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (KM 7-20). TJALEBS Vegetarian Karuzo B-3; B-4, Dženetića Čikma bb, tel. (+387) 33 44 46 47/(+387) 63 89 37 93, www.karuzorestaurant. com. Quirky doesn’t even begin to describe this place. The tiny restaurant behind Markale is the creation of Saša Obućina: owner, host, chef, waiter and DJ. Outfitted to resemble a boat and named after an Italian opera singer, Karuzo was the first vegetarian restaurant in Sarajevo, and the menu is a somewhat schizophrenic medley combining vegetarian, macrobiotic and Mediterranean dishes, along with sushi. The overall experience of eating here has always reminded us of going to your uncle’s house for dinner - only if your uncle was a great cook and vaguely resembled Steven Segal. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00-23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (KM 6 - 35). JABS Vegehana B-2; B-3, Kemal-begova 4, tel. (+387) 61 59 21 23, catering@vegehana.com, vegehana.com. Located on a quiet residential side-street off of Alipašina, this borderline sacreligious vegetarian oasis in the middle of the carnivore’s paradise that is Sarajevo (along with the rest of Bosnia) caters to a mixed crowd of trendy students and health conscious professionals. The daily special is a great value offering six different dishes (soup, main, two sides, salad and a pastry) for KM10 - you can see the current week’s selection by clicking ‘Jelovnik’ on their website. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. (3-10 KM). JAS Autumn 2009 23
Page 1: Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife
Page 4 and 5: 4 foreWord The heart of Bosnia and
Page 6 and 7: 6 BasiCs Learn about the facts and
Page 8 and 9: 8 BasiCs A word from the mayor Welc
Page 10 and 11: 10 history Sarajevo is the administ
Page 12 and 13: 12 Culture & events La Boheme at th
Page 14 and 15: 14 Culture & events INTERNATIONAL T
Page 16: 16 Where to stay Accommodation in S
Page 19 and 20: Gaj B-3, Skenderija 14, tel. (+387)
Page 21: Bosnia, with its beautiful, favoura
Page 25 and 26: A night out in Sarajevo comes no be
Page 27 and 28: Clubs Aqua Disco Mali Kiseljak 8, I
Page 29 and 30: Galleries National Gallery of BiH B
Page 31 and 32: Ghazi Husrev-beg Ghazi Husrev-beg B
Page 33 and 34: Public transport Gras Public Transp
Page 35 and 36: Car travel Sarajevo’s roads are m
Page 37 and 38: The standard starting rate for taxi
Page 39 and 40: Internet To log in over a phone lin
Page 41 and 42: Grand Centar Butmirska 14, tel. (+3
Page 43 and 44: and preparatory courses for TOEFL a
Page 45: ka 9 10 1 1 1 3 SEDRENIK KOŠEVO Os
Page 51 and 52: Unique books from Ireland (and 21 o

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