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22 WHERE TO STAY<br />
Stalinogród<br />
It was 1953 and an<br />
elderly Polish woman<br />
was settling into<br />
her seat on a train<br />
bound for Katowice.<br />
She had stowed<br />
her belongings and<br />
set out her lunch,<br />
including a family<br />
heirloom, a salt<br />
shaker, on the table.<br />
Just before the train<br />
was to depart she<br />
heard a startling an-<br />
pl.wikipedia.org.<br />
nouncement. This<br />
train wasn’t going to<br />
Katowice after all. It was headed for a frightful sounding<br />
place. Frantically she gathered her things in her arms and<br />
rushed to get off the train. <strong>In</strong> her haste she fell and hit her<br />
head and broke the treasured shaker. Taken to the hospital<br />
with a bad concussion, she was revived then questioned<br />
about her sudden departure from the carriage. She explained<br />
her mishap to the doctor: She had only wanted to<br />
go to Katowice not to Russia. The doctor smiled in seeing<br />
her mistake, then replied that the woman had been on the<br />
correct train, but that Katowice now had a new name, one<br />
imposed by Moscow: Stalinogród.<br />
That story from the 2009 collection “Train to Stalinogród<br />
and Other Stories” by Andrzej Kozioł, reveals much about<br />
life in the early days of the People’s Republic of Poland<br />
(or PRL using the Polish acronym). It demonstrates the<br />
confusion and chaos of Poland’s monumental post-<br />
World War II change from fighting Nazis to coping with<br />
Communists.<br />
At least a dozen more cities in other Soviet satellites received<br />
the “gift” of a name change, including Stalinstadt,<br />
East Germany (now Eisenhüttenstadt near Brandenburg,<br />
Germany) and plainly Stalin, Bulgaria (now Varna).<br />
After the Red Army took over Katowice in 1945 following<br />
the retreat of the Germans, a new Communist government<br />
took over. They determined the city needed more<br />
of everything – more space, bigger buildings and larger<br />
factories. To be sure in 1953, the year of Joseph Stalin’s<br />
death, the newly renamed Stalinogród benefited from the<br />
internal dynamics of the Polish and Soviet Communist<br />
parties, likely gaining support for public works and other<br />
projects to honor the glory of the once fearsome leader.<br />
The famous Spodek arena was conceived in 1955, the<br />
result of a design competition for a large exhibition space.<br />
But Stalinogród was a short-lived moment in the city’s<br />
history. Under an intense public backlash and with the<br />
memory of Stalin’s death fading and the Party’s attempt<br />
to distance itself from cults of personality, Polish<br />
authorities changed the name back to Katowice after<br />
just three long years.<br />
Today the city has mostly removed traces of its oppressive<br />
Communist legacy and is now focused on<br />
greater integration with Europe and the West. But the<br />
heavy industrialization of the region owes much to the<br />
Soviet Union and though the name may have long gone,<br />
Stalinisation left its mark.<br />
Qubus Hotel N-3, ul. Dworcowa 27, Gliwice, tel.<br />
(+48) 32 300 11 00, www.qubushotel.com. A modern<br />
cube of a hotel with pretty much everything you need within<br />
walking distance from reception. Frankly, it’s the best hotel<br />
in town, as well as the most modern. Rooms come with<br />
air-conditioning, wifi and mini-bar, while the style is chic<br />
and fresh. Suites come with Jacuzzi tubs, while the superior<br />
apartments feature DVD players and computer. Q89<br />
rooms (35 singles, 44 doubles, 6 suites, 4 apartments).<br />
PTHAR6UGKW hhh<br />
Qubus Prestige C-3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel.<br />
(+48) 32 601 01 00, www.qubushotel.com. Top<br />
class modern business facilities inside the Altus Centre.<br />
Occupying the top few floors of the unmissable city-centre<br />
building, facilities include cable television, minibars, safes<br />
and internet connections in every room. Cashing in on the<br />
lofty location, as well as splendid views of the city from any<br />
of the 150 rooms the hotel also has a great cocktail bar<br />
on the 27th floor which is free to enter for guests staying<br />
in the hotel. Q150 rooms (94 singles, 14 doubles, 36<br />
suites, 6 apartments). POTHAR6UFG<br />
KDW hhhh<br />
Royal M-3, ul. Matejki 10, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32<br />
400 00 00, www.hotelroyal.com.pl. One of Gliwice’s<br />
nicest hotels and right in the centre of the Old Town - you<br />
really can’t do much better. A four-star affair, adorned with<br />
an over-abundance of balustrades and Doric columns,<br />
mirrored tables, archways and open space, Royal has a<br />
real air of aristocracy to it. The rooms are spacious and<br />
the suites even more so, with large luxurious bathrooms<br />
you may be tempted to spend your entire trip in, as well<br />
as internet, 50 channel TV, a mini bar and safe. A classy<br />
restaurant, conference centre and fitness room are also<br />
on site, but if you really want to treat yourself like royalty,<br />
you’ll be scampering back and forth between the dry and<br />
steam saunas, massage table and your insuite bathroom.<br />
Q50 rooms (14 singles, 36 doubles). PTHAFL<br />
GKDW hhh<br />
Mid-range<br />
Blues Hotel I-1, ul. Wolności 15, Chorzów, tel.<br />
(+48) 32 771 94 36, www.blues-hotel.pl. Impressive.<br />
These shockingly stylish rooms right on Chorzów’s<br />
high street have to be the hippest place to hit the sack<br />
in town. Carrying over the blues theme from the Szuflada15<br />
restaurant and jazz club housed in the same old<br />
tenement building, Blues has nailed the ‘birth of cool’<br />
aesthetic; all that’s missing (gratefully) is the poster<br />
of Miles Davis. Modern rooms in shades of steel gray,<br />
silver and deep blue come with fashionable furnishings,<br />
satellite TV, free wireless and slick bathrooms. Choose<br />
between 2 singles, 6 doubles and 2 triples, all of them<br />
handicap accessible and in danger of making you extend<br />
your visit. Q10 rooms (2 singles, 6 doubles, 2 triples).<br />
PAR6UGKW hhh<br />
Campanile F-5, ul. Sowińskiego 48, tel. (+48) 32<br />
205 50 50, www.campanile.com.pl. Great value in a<br />
city where accommodation is still very limited in choice.<br />
Modern, Identikit rooms come with shower room, cable<br />
tv, wireless internet and comfortable beds. The breakfast<br />
buffet is as good as you will find in a Polish 2-star hotel and<br />
the competitive pricing policy means that Campanile have a<br />
winning formula. You are advised to book ahead if planning<br />
on staying during the week when the city’s hotels fill up with<br />
business travellers. Q77 rooms (77 singles, 77 doubles).<br />
PTHA6UGKW hh<br />
Katowice <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> katowice.inyourpocket.com<br />
• 76 AIR-CONDITIONED ROOMS WITH<br />
TV AND BATHROOM<br />
• FREE WIRELESS INTERNET HOTSPOT<br />
• RESTAURANT WITH<br />
INTERNATIONAL CUISINE<br />
• COMFORTABLE CONFERENCE ROOMS<br />
• MONITORED CAR-PARK<br />
DeSilva <strong>In</strong>n Katowice Airport ul. Równoległa 2,<br />
Pyrzowice, tel. (+48) 32 393 88 88, www.desilva.<br />
pl. With Katowice airport located some way from the city<br />
centre, this new business hotel is ideally located for those<br />
with an early flight. 77 air-conditioned rooms come fitted<br />
out with all modern cons and large, comfortable beds<br />
while the in-house bar and restaurant and impressive<br />
conferencing facilities make it a very handy business<br />
choice. Q77 rooms (77 singles, 77 doubles, 77 triples).<br />
PTHA6ULGKW hhh<br />
Diament Economy Gliwice N-2, ul. Zwycięstwa<br />
42, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 231 18 21, www.hotelediament.pl.<br />
A splendid art nouveau facade hides<br />
some of the best value accommodation in Gliwice,<br />
and it comes as absolutely no surprise that we’re to<br />
thank the chaps behind the Diament brand. Expect the<br />
uniform three star trimmings, including free internet<br />
access and a separate floor for non-smoking fingerwaggers.<br />
A hairdresser and beauty salon have also<br />
been opened inside. Q27 rooms (7 singles, 20 doubles).<br />
TA6ULGKW hhh<br />
Diament Zabrze ul. Cisowa 4, Zabrze (Zaborze<br />
Południe), tel. (+48) 32 721 10 00, www.hotelediament.pl.<br />
Set inside a powder blue building the<br />
Diament is a no-nonsense mid-ranger with a tiled lobby<br />
that appears to double as an art gallery. Rooms come<br />
decorated with pleasant neutral colours and feature<br />
spotless bathrooms, satellite TV and wireless internet<br />
access. The restaurant is one of your best chances<br />
for a meal that won’t debilitate you. Q38 rooms (12<br />
singles, 22 doubles, 4 suites). THA6ULG<br />
KDW hhh<br />
katowice.inyourpocket.com<br />
WHERE TO STAY<br />
SOWIŃSKIEGO 48, 40-018 <strong>KATOWICE</strong>, TEL: +48 (032) 205 50 50, FAX: +48 (032) 209 06 06<br />
EMAIL: <strong>KATOWICE</strong>@CAMPANILE.COM<br />
Hotel Bella Notte K-4, ul. Paderewskiego 35,<br />
Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 606 82 82, www.stylehotels.pl.<br />
A stylish new hotel located next to the Arsenal Palace Hotel<br />
on the Katowice/Chorzów border, guests are entitled to use<br />
the facilities of their illustrious neighbour such as the swimming<br />
pool, sauna and fitness centre. An attractive choice in<br />
its own right, Bella Notte features 32 standard rooms, 12<br />
deluxe rooms and a two-storey apartment is also available.<br />
Q45 rooms (43 singles, 43 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment).<br />
THAR6ULGW hhh<br />
Hotel Rycerski (Knights Hotel) ul. Będzińska<br />
53, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www.hotelrycerski.pl.<br />
Nestled on the road between Czeladź and<br />
Będzin, this sleeper has been made to look like a Polish<br />
mountain hut from the outside, but harbours spacious,<br />
well-equipped, modern rooms set out on the inside.<br />
You’ll need a car to get around, but you’re compensated<br />
with very good accommodation at affordable rates, with<br />
a recommended Polish restaurant and bar meaning you<br />
don’t need to go anywhere else to eat like one of the<br />
aforementioned knights. Modern conference, meeting<br />
and banqueting facilities, plus an adjacent children’s<br />
playground, seem to have made it a success from the<br />
word ‘go’. Q26 rooms (24 singles, 19 doubles, 1 suite, 1<br />
apartment). THARGK hhh<br />
Ibis Katowice - Zabrze R-1, ul. Jagiellońska 4,<br />
Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 777 70 00, www.accorhotels.<br />
com. Opened with a swipey card, the rooms at the Ibis are<br />
everything one expects from these middle-bracket stalwarts.<br />
Plain and identikit it might be, but your accommodation is<br />
guaranteed to be absolutely pristine, with soundproof doors<br />
and extra-strong curtains ensuring your sleep faces no inter-<br />
July - October 2012<br />
23