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KATOWICE - In Your Pocket

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22 WHERE TO STAY<br />

Stalinogród<br />

It was 1953 and an<br />

elderly Polish woman<br />

was settling into<br />

her seat on a train<br />

bound for Katowice.<br />

She had stowed<br />

her belongings and<br />

set out her lunch,<br />

including a family<br />

heirloom, a salt<br />

shaker, on the table.<br />

Just before the train<br />

was to depart she<br />

heard a startling an-<br />

pl.wikipedia.org.<br />

nouncement. This<br />

train wasn’t going to<br />

Katowice after all. It was headed for a frightful sounding<br />

place. Frantically she gathered her things in her arms and<br />

rushed to get off the train. <strong>In</strong> her haste she fell and hit her<br />

head and broke the treasured shaker. Taken to the hospital<br />

with a bad concussion, she was revived then questioned<br />

about her sudden departure from the carriage. She explained<br />

her mishap to the doctor: She had only wanted to<br />

go to Katowice not to Russia. The doctor smiled in seeing<br />

her mistake, then replied that the woman had been on the<br />

correct train, but that Katowice now had a new name, one<br />

imposed by Moscow: Stalinogród.<br />

That story from the 2009 collection “Train to Stalinogród<br />

and Other Stories” by Andrzej Kozioł, reveals much about<br />

life in the early days of the People’s Republic of Poland<br />

(or PRL using the Polish acronym). It demonstrates the<br />

confusion and chaos of Poland’s monumental post-<br />

World War II change from fighting Nazis to coping with<br />

Communists.<br />

At least a dozen more cities in other Soviet satellites received<br />

the “gift” of a name change, including Stalinstadt,<br />

East Germany (now Eisenhüttenstadt near Brandenburg,<br />

Germany) and plainly Stalin, Bulgaria (now Varna).<br />

After the Red Army took over Katowice in 1945 following<br />

the retreat of the Germans, a new Communist government<br />

took over. They determined the city needed more<br />

of everything – more space, bigger buildings and larger<br />

factories. To be sure in 1953, the year of Joseph Stalin’s<br />

death, the newly renamed Stalinogród benefited from the<br />

internal dynamics of the Polish and Soviet Communist<br />

parties, likely gaining support for public works and other<br />

projects to honor the glory of the once fearsome leader.<br />

The famous Spodek arena was conceived in 1955, the<br />

result of a design competition for a large exhibition space.<br />

But Stalinogród was a short-lived moment in the city’s<br />

history. Under an intense public backlash and with the<br />

memory of Stalin’s death fading and the Party’s attempt<br />

to distance itself from cults of personality, Polish<br />

authorities changed the name back to Katowice after<br />

just three long years.<br />

Today the city has mostly removed traces of its oppressive<br />

Communist legacy and is now focused on<br />

greater integration with Europe and the West. But the<br />

heavy industrialization of the region owes much to the<br />

Soviet Union and though the name may have long gone,<br />

Stalinisation left its mark.<br />

Qubus Hotel N-3, ul. Dworcowa 27, Gliwice, tel.<br />

(+48) 32 300 11 00, www.qubushotel.com. A modern<br />

cube of a hotel with pretty much everything you need within<br />

walking distance from reception. Frankly, it’s the best hotel<br />

in town, as well as the most modern. Rooms come with<br />

air-conditioning, wifi and mini-bar, while the style is chic<br />

and fresh. Suites come with Jacuzzi tubs, while the superior<br />

apartments feature DVD players and computer. Q89<br />

rooms (35 singles, 44 doubles, 6 suites, 4 apartments).<br />

PTHAR6UGKW hhh<br />

Qubus Prestige C-3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel.<br />

(+48) 32 601 01 00, www.qubushotel.com. Top<br />

class modern business facilities inside the Altus Centre.<br />

Occupying the top few floors of the unmissable city-centre<br />

building, facilities include cable television, minibars, safes<br />

and internet connections in every room. Cashing in on the<br />

lofty location, as well as splendid views of the city from any<br />

of the 150 rooms the hotel also has a great cocktail bar<br />

on the 27th floor which is free to enter for guests staying<br />

in the hotel. Q150 rooms (94 singles, 14 doubles, 36<br />

suites, 6 apartments). POTHAR6UFG<br />

KDW hhhh<br />

Royal M-3, ul. Matejki 10, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32<br />

400 00 00, www.hotelroyal.com.pl. One of Gliwice’s<br />

nicest hotels and right in the centre of the Old Town - you<br />

really can’t do much better. A four-star affair, adorned with<br />

an over-abundance of balustrades and Doric columns,<br />

mirrored tables, archways and open space, Royal has a<br />

real air of aristocracy to it. The rooms are spacious and<br />

the suites even more so, with large luxurious bathrooms<br />

you may be tempted to spend your entire trip in, as well<br />

as internet, 50 channel TV, a mini bar and safe. A classy<br />

restaurant, conference centre and fitness room are also<br />

on site, but if you really want to treat yourself like royalty,<br />

you’ll be scampering back and forth between the dry and<br />

steam saunas, massage table and your insuite bathroom.<br />

Q50 rooms (14 singles, 36 doubles). PTHAFL<br />

GKDW hhh<br />

Mid-range<br />

Blues Hotel I-1, ul. Wolności 15, Chorzów, tel.<br />

(+48) 32 771 94 36, www.blues-hotel.pl. Impressive.<br />

These shockingly stylish rooms right on Chorzów’s<br />

high street have to be the hippest place to hit the sack<br />

in town. Carrying over the blues theme from the Szuflada15<br />

restaurant and jazz club housed in the same old<br />

tenement building, Blues has nailed the ‘birth of cool’<br />

aesthetic; all that’s missing (gratefully) is the poster<br />

of Miles Davis. Modern rooms in shades of steel gray,<br />

silver and deep blue come with fashionable furnishings,<br />

satellite TV, free wireless and slick bathrooms. Choose<br />

between 2 singles, 6 doubles and 2 triples, all of them<br />

handicap accessible and in danger of making you extend<br />

your visit. Q10 rooms (2 singles, 6 doubles, 2 triples).<br />

PAR6UGKW hhh<br />

Campanile F-5, ul. Sowińskiego 48, tel. (+48) 32<br />

205 50 50, www.campanile.com.pl. Great value in a<br />

city where accommodation is still very limited in choice.<br />

Modern, Identikit rooms come with shower room, cable<br />

tv, wireless internet and comfortable beds. The breakfast<br />

buffet is as good as you will find in a Polish 2-star hotel and<br />

the competitive pricing policy means that Campanile have a<br />

winning formula. You are advised to book ahead if planning<br />

on staying during the week when the city’s hotels fill up with<br />

business travellers. Q77 rooms (77 singles, 77 doubles).<br />

PTHA6UGKW hh<br />

Katowice <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> katowice.inyourpocket.com<br />

• 76 AIR-CONDITIONED ROOMS WITH<br />

TV AND BATHROOM<br />

• FREE WIRELESS INTERNET HOTSPOT<br />

• RESTAURANT WITH<br />

INTERNATIONAL CUISINE<br />

• COMFORTABLE CONFERENCE ROOMS<br />

• MONITORED CAR-PARK<br />

DeSilva <strong>In</strong>n Katowice Airport ul. Równoległa 2,<br />

Pyrzowice, tel. (+48) 32 393 88 88, www.desilva.<br />

pl. With Katowice airport located some way from the city<br />

centre, this new business hotel is ideally located for those<br />

with an early flight. 77 air-conditioned rooms come fitted<br />

out with all modern cons and large, comfortable beds<br />

while the in-house bar and restaurant and impressive<br />

conferencing facilities make it a very handy business<br />

choice. Q77 rooms (77 singles, 77 doubles, 77 triples).<br />

PTHA6ULGKW hhh<br />

Diament Economy Gliwice N-2, ul. Zwycięstwa<br />

42, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 231 18 21, www.hotelediament.pl.<br />

A splendid art nouveau facade hides<br />

some of the best value accommodation in Gliwice,<br />

and it comes as absolutely no surprise that we’re to<br />

thank the chaps behind the Diament brand. Expect the<br />

uniform three star trimmings, including free internet<br />

access and a separate floor for non-smoking fingerwaggers.<br />

A hairdresser and beauty salon have also<br />

been opened inside. Q27 rooms (7 singles, 20 doubles).<br />

TA6ULGKW hhh<br />

Diament Zabrze ul. Cisowa 4, Zabrze (Zaborze<br />

Południe), tel. (+48) 32 721 10 00, www.hotelediament.pl.<br />

Set inside a powder blue building the<br />

Diament is a no-nonsense mid-ranger with a tiled lobby<br />

that appears to double as an art gallery. Rooms come<br />

decorated with pleasant neutral colours and feature<br />

spotless bathrooms, satellite TV and wireless internet<br />

access. The restaurant is one of your best chances<br />

for a meal that won’t debilitate you. Q38 rooms (12<br />

singles, 22 doubles, 4 suites). THA6ULG<br />

KDW hhh<br />

katowice.inyourpocket.com<br />

WHERE TO STAY<br />

SOWIŃSKIEGO 48, 40-018 <strong>KATOWICE</strong>, TEL: +48 (032) 205 50 50, FAX: +48 (032) 209 06 06<br />

EMAIL: <strong>KATOWICE</strong>@CAMPANILE.COM<br />

Hotel Bella Notte K-4, ul. Paderewskiego 35,<br />

Chorzów, tel. (+48) 32 606 82 82, www.stylehotels.pl.<br />

A stylish new hotel located next to the Arsenal Palace Hotel<br />

on the Katowice/Chorzów border, guests are entitled to use<br />

the facilities of their illustrious neighbour such as the swimming<br />

pool, sauna and fitness centre. An attractive choice in<br />

its own right, Bella Notte features 32 standard rooms, 12<br />

deluxe rooms and a two-storey apartment is also available.<br />

Q45 rooms (43 singles, 43 doubles, 1 suite, 1 apartment).<br />

THAR6ULGW hhh<br />

Hotel Rycerski (Knights Hotel) ul. Będzińska<br />

53, Czeladź, tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www.hotelrycerski.pl.<br />

Nestled on the road between Czeladź and<br />

Będzin, this sleeper has been made to look like a Polish<br />

mountain hut from the outside, but harbours spacious,<br />

well-equipped, modern rooms set out on the inside.<br />

You’ll need a car to get around, but you’re compensated<br />

with very good accommodation at affordable rates, with<br />

a recommended Polish restaurant and bar meaning you<br />

don’t need to go anywhere else to eat like one of the<br />

aforementioned knights. Modern conference, meeting<br />

and banqueting facilities, plus an adjacent children’s<br />

playground, seem to have made it a success from the<br />

word ‘go’. Q26 rooms (24 singles, 19 doubles, 1 suite, 1<br />

apartment). THARGK hhh<br />

Ibis Katowice - Zabrze R-1, ul. Jagiellońska 4,<br />

Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 777 70 00, www.accorhotels.<br />

com. Opened with a swipey card, the rooms at the Ibis are<br />

everything one expects from these middle-bracket stalwarts.<br />

Plain and identikit it might be, but your accommodation is<br />

guaranteed to be absolutely pristine, with soundproof doors<br />

and extra-strong curtains ensuring your sleep faces no inter-<br />

July - October 2012<br />

23

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