WROCŁAW - In Your Pocket

56 NIGHTLIFE
Polish Friends of Beer Party
Sure, it started out as
a joke: In 1990 satirist
Janusz Rewinski formed
the Polish Friends of
Beer Party (Polska
Partia Przyjaciol Piwa
or PPPP in Polish) to
promote the country’s
second most beloved
polskapartianarodowa.org
beverage during the
new shift in government. The concept was popular
enough, in fact, to inspire a similar party in Russia as
well. And thanks to some disillusionment with Poland’s
democratic transition after the end of communism a
number of Poles voted for the prank party, and in the
1991 parliamentary elections 16 seats were nabbed
by the PPPP. What started out as a joke – their slogan
regarding the party running Poland: “it wouldn’t be
better but for sure it would be funnier” – evolved into
a semi-serious platform thanks to the newly acquired
seats. Of course, the divided cannot conquer, so when
the party split into Large Beer and Small Beer factions
it signalled the end of the jokey era, and eventually
the Large Beer faction transformed into the far less
humorous Polish Economic Program. Today little
remains of the group except for well-earned entries
in top ten lists of most ridiculous political parties and
Facebook groups celebrating the original idea: that
consuming quality beer is a symbol of freedom and a
better standard of living.
Strefa Zero (Laki Zaki) E-4, ul. Ruska 47/48a,
tel. (+48) 667 69 80 08. One courtyard removed from
the well-traversed Pasaż Niepolda you’ll find a few more
dens of debauchery, including this gem. Strefa Zero is the
ultimate alternative (literally underground) dive bar filled
with dreadlocks, leather jackets, students, bartenders
with fresh tattoos, old heads and howling women holding
each other up/embracing around a ‘no liquor left behind’
policy. The grey brick and cinderblock walls have been
completely covered in collage, graffiti and chaotic mural
art with furnishings as dark as the unhinged atmosphere.
The music is a mix of just about everything, except what
goes by ‘black music’ around these parts, and you might
stumble upon a live concert or improvisational theatre
performance. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 -
04:00. EGW
Szajba A-3, ul. Św. Antoniego 2/4, tel. (+48) 660 40
42 70, www.szajba.wroclaw.pl. Hidden one courtyard
east of Mleczarnia, this large, versatile high-ceilinged
club/gallery caters to Wrocław’s large demographic of
hipsters who create happenings. Old 50s and 60s radios
with glowing gummy bear lamps atop them line the walls
above old framed advertisements and prints by local artists.
The furnishings, as you can guess, are more of the
same attic antiques you find in many such places, with
candles and tulips on the tabletops and plenty of room
for large groups. Outdoor seating, an eclectic alternative
playlist, extensive exotic drink list and free wi fi are just a
few more of the reasons Szajba is a great place to pass
time; the bar staff are obviously enjoying themselves, as
our coffee came with a near-complete tic-tac-toe board
drawn in the foam, waiting for us to place the winning
stroke. A great find. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 04:00. AUEGBW
NEW
The Winners Pub E-4, ul. Włodkowica 5, tel. (+48)
519 54 18 94, www.thewinnerspub.pl. As far as sports
bars go, this is the best thing to happen in Wrocław for a long
time and well overdue. A nice balance is struck between the
intimate, modern interior of creme-coloured booths, all with
a good view of one of the 10 flatscreens (they also have a
projector), and the antiquated black and white sports photo
wallpaper and outdated athletic equipment on the walls.
There’s also a simple, sparse and not at all cheap menu of
modern American food, with the specialty being steaks fried
on a hot volcanic stone. Very professional service comes
from young ladies who are clearly runway models on their off
days, and the pub atmosphere is only let down by the lack
of good beer. Nonetheless, with sidewalk seating as well as
a share of Wrocław’s best beer garden in front of the White
Stork Synagogue when the weather is cooperative, we’d
say Winners has got Guinness Pub beaten handily. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. PABXW
Włodkowica 21 E-4, ul. Włodkowica 21, tel. (+48)
71 784 48 18, www.wlodkowica21.com. The preferred
watering hole for smokers and kids who look like they’ve
just finished band practice, this fantastic boozer features
bare bricks walls with empty picture frames, rickety furnishings
and love seats with the springs sticking out. Every
bit the hipster haven, find a chill hangout with a groovy
playlist in the afternoons and a loud, smoky, somewhat
sloppy circus at night, when the tiny bar can lead to long
queues for a drink. The huge space is almost entirely
given over to smokers so be prepared to play the square
if you’re not as rock and roll as the crowd. QOpen 10:00
- 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 02:00.
PAUEBXW
Wrocław In Your Pocket wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Clubs
Antidotum F-4, ul. Kiełbaśnicza 32, tel. (+48) 603 03
94 31, www.antidotumclub.pl. Set inside a network of
underground tunnels just off the market square, Antidotum
has established itself as one of Wrocław’s most reliable
clubs for a memorable night out. With two dance-floors,
two bars and several VIP sections, the space looks great
with a design that’s kept to scrubbed stone walls, stripped
wood floors, modern lighting and deep sofas, and filled
with a fervent crowd of Miss Polska candidates. Though
with the safe selection of club house tunes and occasional
disco anthem there are few surprises in the DJ’s bag, this
venue is still an ample ‘antidote’ for anyone who thinks that
Wrocław’s nightlife isn’t top-notch. Q Open 15:00 - 04:00.
Closed Sun. From November 16 open 18:00 - 04:00. Closed
Sun. PAUGBW
Bed Club F-4, Rynek 60, tel. (+48) 71 372 58 01, www.
bedclub.pl. Easily the most luxurious, exclusive, and overthe-top
posh club in Wroclaw, Bed’s three-letter title belies
its grand and lavish interior. There are five areas including
the smoking room, the outdoor garden, the chill-out room,
the main dance-floor and - of course - the VIP room. Each
has a swanky yet vaguely cosmic East-Asian appeal, with
incense and the glow of candle-light omnipresent. Reserve
anything you can in advance and come well-dressed or not
at all. Open exclusively on Friday and Saturday, you won’t
find a hotter or more exclusive club, but you’ve got to pay to
play (typically 20-25zł). If you’ve got one night set aside to go
celebrity-hunting, or just to get decked out and rub shoulders
with hotties and big-wigs, go to Bed (so to speak). Q Open
Fri, Sat only 22:00 - 04:00. PAEBXW
Bezsenność (Insomnia) E-4, ul. Ruska 51 (Pasaż
Niepolda), tel. (+48) 71 792 80 48, www.bezsennoscklub.com.
The Ruska courtyard is hot news, and Bezsenność
is the cherry on the cake. Wrocław’s sophisticated singles
gather amid a decadent background of comfy sofas, stark
concrete walls and thrift-store furnishings that balance the
romanticism of faded olde world grandeur and the sexiness of
an underworld speakeasy. Weekends host legendary dance
parties, while work days are more low-key with everything
from cool 60s tracks to smoky jazz tunes on the speakers,
as well as the common occurrence of some of the city’s top
concerts in this venue that good bands seem to go out of their
way to try and play in. A must visit. QOpen 19:00 - 03:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 05:00. PAUEBXW
Cherry Club B-3, ul. Kuźnicza 10, tel. (+48) 501 55
52 02, www.cherryclub.com.pl. Housed in what was
Lemoniada, the décor seems to have changed little and this
is still one of the top addresses in town. Get past the door
police to find one of the smartest looking joints in town with
a young crowd determined to have fun. Decent sounds and a
well-stocked bar make this a popular venue meaning dressing
up a little is not only worthwhile but necessary. Expect
to dispense some cash at the door on weekends. QOpen
21:00 - 03:00, Tue 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon, Sun. PAUXW
Domówka A-3, Rynek 39, tel. (+48) 508 15 69
12, www.klubdomowka.pl. If you come on a popular
night Domówka is not so much a club, but an experience.
Once you’ve gotten past the face-control, entrance,
security and coat-check you’ll stroll into a packed
ballroom-style scene all centred around a massive
elevated dance-floor with a hypnotic vibe. The crowd is a
bit older and decked-out to be sure, which means there’s
eye-candy in every direction and very yuppie prices.
wroclaw.inyourpocket.com
Zakąski Przekąski
NIGHTLIFE
Known as ‘Zakąski Przekąski’ (literally ‘Appetisers &
Snacks’), or ‘Polish Tapas’ as it’s been dubbed by some,
these 24 hour budget snack bars have been appearing
all over the city (and the country for that matter), cashing
in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices
as everything else is getting more expensive. The Zakąski
Przekąski formula includes a small selection of simple, local
appetisers typically served cold and priced at 8zł, with drinks
(coffee, vodka, beer, wine) at a fixed rate of 4zł. Familiar as
the bar snacks of the lean communist years, the menu reads
like a list of correct answers to questions from the Jeopardy
category ‘Foods that follow vodka’ and typically includes śledz
(pickled herring in oil), galaretka (pig trotters in jelly), kiełbasa
(sausage), pierogi, pickles and tartare. Having seemingly
sprung up on every street in Wrocław, we list the best below:
Nagi Kamerdyner (The Naked Butler) A-3, ul. Św.
Mikołaja 8-11, tel. (+48) 71 342 00 11, www.nagikamerdyner.pl.
An absolutely fantastic boozer that perfectly
captures the dusky, tobacco-stained, outlaw elegance of
Prohibition-era America with music from the1920s and
‘30s, period photos and interrogation lamps, The Naked
Butler is one of our favourite spots to soak up some suds
before a big night out. With above-average hot and cold
Polish dishes for 8zł and an all-too-convenient location with
a great summer garden underneath the legendary Manana
Cafe, you never know when we might be stool pigeoning
at the bar with our brim pulled low over a plate of bigos
and a beer. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00, Thu 17:00 - 05:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 07:00, Sun 17:00 - 03:00. PAUGB
Przedwojenna A-3, ul. Św. Mikołaja 81, tel. (+48)
791 12 05 25. Another Zakąski Przekąski bar, Przedwojenna
sets itself apart thanks to a great location just
off the market square and plenty of atmosphere. Building
off the misnomer that budget vodka snack bars were also
fashionable during the 1920s, Przedwojenna (the name
translates to ‘Pre-war’) captures the casual elegance of
the period via a rugged interior of stained wood and slightly
battered furnishings set inside a glorious building with high
ceilings and a mezzanine level that looks directly onto St.
Elizabeth’s church. There are a couple nods to the cult ‘20sera
Polish crime flick, Vabank, but the two former models
behind the bar perhaps best embody the atmosphere
of fleeting beauty that Przedwojenna captures. Popular
throughout the day as well as the night, the food is better
than the competitors and Przedwojenna is on its way to
becoming a Wrocław legend. Q Open 24hrs. PGBW
Setka - Bar Polski Ludowej A-3, ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego
50a, tel. (+48) 71 715 60 60, www.setkabar.
pl. For those who miss the Communist system in Poland
and those who simply missed it altogether, Setka (the Polish
name for a 100ml glass of hard alcohol) recreates the
spartan simplicity of a Communist bar or diner. However,
instead of just a dreary room of empty shelves, gray walls,
and unsmiling patrons, you’ll find a veritable homage to all
things Communist. The time-warp motif covers most of the
20-foot high walls as well as the bar, tables and decorations.
Even the menu - a huge billboard-like sign looming above
the bar - is a typically large, imposing and inflexible tribute to
Communists days (and offers a grand total of sixteen items,
including all drinks). There’s more ambience than there should
be for a real historical re-enactment, but the low prices and
completely casual dress do an old Communist watering hole
justice. Q Open 24hrs. PAUGBSW
September - December 2012
57