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TALLInn - In Your Pocket

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44 CafÉs CafÉs 45<br />

Fashionable<br />

Tallinn's most en vogue cafés all offer full meals as well as the<br />

satisfaction that you're with the 'in' crowd.<br />

Bestseller C-4, Viru Väljak 4/6, 3rd floor of Viru Centre, tel.<br />

(+372) 53 46 71 96, kohvik@relevante.ee. Pulling in a clientele<br />

that's both intellectual and trendy (think blondes wearing glasses),<br />

this café on the lower floor of the Viru Centre's Rahva Raamat book<br />

store has become a popular gourmet lunch destination. It offers an<br />

original selection of salads and light brasserie-style meals as well<br />

as ciabatta sandwiches or bread to go. Surprisingly inexpensive<br />

for this level of quality. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. TULSW<br />

Café More C-4, Viru väljak 4/6 (Viru Centre), tel. (+372)<br />

661 91 33/(+372) 56 95 59 08, info@cafemore.ee, www.<br />

cafemore.ee. Owned by one of Estonia's top cook-book authors,<br />

this book store café offers some inspired light-bites, fresh<br />

and tasty salads as well as some sinfully tempting desserts.<br />

Grab a book or your laptop and settle in for a while. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 21:00. (€7). TJ6ULSW<br />

new<br />

Kinokohvik Sinilind C-3, Müürivahe 50, tel. (+372) 58<br />

38 36 25. Brought to you by the same folks over at 'Must<br />

Puudel', and oddly enough decorated in largely the same way ie.<br />

Soviet and Scandinavian retro chic - the 'Cinema Café Bluebird'<br />

seemed to us to be pretty much just an extension of their other<br />

locale, other than the fact that on Tuesday evenings they have<br />

an Estonian cinema night. These nights usually highlight a few<br />

films from a certain era in Estonian film history and are certainly<br />

geared to cinemaphiles. NB! Kitchen should open sometime at<br />

the end of October, until then you'll have to settle for pastries,<br />

cakes and liquid refreshments. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. J<br />

Kohvik Spirit B-4, Mere pst. 6e, tel. (+372) 661 61 51,<br />

info@kohvikspirit.ee, www.kohvikspirit.ee. Designers apparently<br />

couldn't decide if they were making a sushi bar or a living<br />

Gourmet shop cafés<br />

These cafés not only serves gourmet food, but also sell<br />

the ingredients to let budding chefs dabble at home.<br />

Confiserie Friida C-2, Suur-Karja 2, tel. (+372) 661<br />

94 99, friida@friida.eu, www.friida.eu. This tiny little<br />

confiserie features a good selection of sweets, chocolates,<br />

gourmet Italian coffees, fine wines and a few other delicacies<br />

to savour. Stop by for an espresso or take some of their<br />

other goodies to go. QOpen 09:30 - 14:30;15:00 - 18:30,<br />

Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:30;15:00 - 17:00. JS<br />

Güllüoglu Café H-3, Rävala pst. 2, tel. (+372) 661<br />

3047/(+372) 53 42 73 21, gulluoglu-eesti@hotmail.<br />

com, www.gulluoglu.ee. Home to perhaps the best baklava<br />

and Turkish coffee in the city, this hard-to-pronounce<br />

café is actually part of a large, well-known chain from the<br />

former Byzantine Empire. They not only provide sweet<br />

temptations though, you’ll also be able to grab some excellent<br />

savoury items such as sandwiches, croissants and<br />

the like. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (€6). 6SW<br />

Vertigo Gourmet C-3, Viru 17, kauplus@vertigogourmet.ee,<br />

www.vertigogourmet.ee. A little pricey, but the<br />

quality and originality of products offered here just might<br />

tempt you into skipping out on the McDonalds Café across<br />

the street. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Fri 09:00 - 21:00, Sat<br />

10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. JS<br />

room, so this cushy café/restaurant ends up with a feel that's<br />

both exclusive and comfy. A small selection of soups, mains and<br />

pastas is available, but mostly it's sushi here, with combos from<br />

€5.50-12. The food is tasty, the crowd is chic and the entrance<br />

is in the back - it's always better through the back door isn't<br />

it? QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (€11). 6SW<br />

Must Puudel D-3, Müürivahe 20, tel. (+372) 505 62 58.<br />

Not to be confused with 'Must Lammas' , on the parallel Sauna<br />

street, the Black Poodle is a funky, retro eatery with a heavy<br />

Soviet-living-room feel and a cosy hang-out kind of atmosphere.<br />

The cuisine is kind of a blend between trendy and home-style, the<br />

prices won't bankrupt you and there are even live entertainment<br />

events held some weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue,<br />

Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (€5). JEW<br />

Popular & Köök Boheem C-3, Vana-Viru 6, tel. (+372)<br />

641 45 65. The former 'Popular Café och Pub' has been turned<br />

into a sort of clone of their other two venues, both of which also<br />

have the name 'Boheem' in their names. On the plus side, this<br />

new incarnation (which used to be a haven for shisha pipe smokers<br />

and just smokers in general) does have a kitchen serving<br />

up decent, fresh-oriented cuisine. On the minus it's no longer a<br />

haven for smokers, who very much relied on the welcome comfort<br />

of a decent smoking lounge, especially come winter - which pretty<br />

much starts in September and lasts until May here in Tallinn. On<br />

weekend nights it turns into a loungy club of sorts, offering all<br />

the latest beats from genres we haven't even heard of. QOpen<br />

09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. JXW<br />

Wabadus D-2, Vabaduse väljak 10, tel. (+372) 53 70<br />

19 03/(+372) 644 42 32, wabadus@wabadus.ee, www.<br />

wabadus.ee. The newest incarnation of this eatery, formerly<br />

known as Moskva and Kultus, just happens to hit the nail right<br />

on the head - so to speak. From the clean interior design and<br />

1930's inspired outfits to the delightfully prepared dishes and<br />

the snappy service Wabadus will transport you back in time.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Mon 11:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 03:00.<br />

Closed Sun. (€9.50). JEW<br />

XX sajand C-2, Kullassepa 13, tel. (+372) 611 90 85,<br />

kohvik@xxsajand.ee, www.xxsajand.ee. Located just across<br />

from the Tourist <strong>In</strong>formation Centre, this is a great little spot for<br />

a light bite, a coffee, a dessert or a cocktail - '20th Century' is<br />

both cosy and central. You can tell that the owners have put<br />

their hearts into it and it's one place we will certainly visit again.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00,<br />

Sun 11:00 - 20:00. (€9.90). TJ6ESW<br />

Bakeries<br />

Loads of little bakeries and cafés around town churn<br />

out tempting pastries and provide coffee and tables<br />

to let you indulge on the spot. Here we have listed just<br />

a few that specialise in baked goods.<br />

Coco D-3, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris Centre), tel. (+372)<br />

672 27 22, info@cocopagar.ee, www.cocopagar.ee.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. JS<br />

Elsebet in Peppersack C-2/3, Viru 2, tel. (+372)<br />

646 69 95, peppersack@peppersack.ee, www.peppersack.ee.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. JS<br />

Mademoiselle H-2, Paldiski mnt. 4 (Meriton Grand<br />

Conference & Spa Hotel), tel. (+372) 628 81 55,<br />

www.meritonhotels.com. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.<br />

JS<br />

Stylish & Cosy<br />

These classy establishments are best for long chats with<br />

friends, romantic encounters and discussions about your<br />

next novel.<br />

Bogapott C-1, Pikk jalg 9, tel. (+372) 631 31 81, www.<br />

bogapott.ee. Tucked into part of a medieval town wall on Toompea,<br />

the family-run Bogapott is a cosy, otherworldly hideaway.<br />

Fresh, flaky pastries and sandwiches are the speciality in this<br />

combination café, art shop and ceramics studio. QOpen 10:00<br />

- 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. JIW<br />

Bonaparte B-3, Pikk 45, tel. (+372) 646 44 44, bonaparte@bonaparte.ee,<br />

www.bonaparte.ee. Nestled in a beautiful,<br />

17th-century building, Bonaparte certainly has a refined<br />

atmosphere, but it's a casual and surprisingly affordable place<br />

to sip earl grey and sample the buttery croissants and other<br />

home-made pastries. Sit and watch the world go by, or check<br />

out one of the revolving art exhibits. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00,<br />

Mon, Tue 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.<br />

(€7). J6SW<br />

Café Amore D-2, Harju 5, tel. (+372) 644 07 21, info@<br />

cafeamore.ee. Because it's all about the love isn't it. This<br />

quaint little café kind of bleeds romantic, from the ultra sinful<br />

chocolate cakes and the rich coffees to the little cans of proseco<br />

and gold framed everything, Amore really spreads the love. Quite<br />

a nice view onto Niguliste church too. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.<br />

(€10). JS<br />

C'est La Vie C-2, Suur-Karja 5, tel. (+372) 641 80 48,<br />

info@cestlavie.ee, www.cestlavie.ee. This swanky establishment's<br />

1930's style interior will have you dancing the Charleston.<br />

The cuisine certainly has a French bent to it, and the romantic<br />

ambience makes this a great choice for a date. QOpen 12:00<br />

- 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. TJ6ESW<br />

Enigma C-2, Kullassepa 11, tel. (+372) 55 67 15 98.<br />

Enigma, truly is - an enigma. This tiny hole-in-the-wall, located<br />

just steps from Town hall Square carries a smattering of pastries,<br />

hot and cold drinks and is open between the hours of 10am<br />

until 1am - as long as you call ahead to book a tea ceremony<br />

or something... they also call themselves a vegetarian place,<br />

whatever that means. Q J<br />

Josephine C-3, Vene 16, tel. (+372) 641 82 91, pierre@<br />

pierre.ee, www.pierre.ee. Brought to you by the same fine<br />

chocolatiers as Pierre located in the courtyard just down the<br />

street, the atmosphere at Josephine is quite a bit different a<br />

little swankier, and oh man, you have got to try the handmade<br />

chocolate. This is not a bad place to indulge your yourself in decadence.<br />

QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. JSW<br />

Kehrwieder Chocolaterie C-2, Saiakang 1<br />

(Raekoja Plats), tel. (+372) 55 56 72 03, saiakang@<br />

kohvik.ee, www.kohvik.ee. One of the best cafés in<br />

town for ambience, Kehrweider is a snug warren of cavelike<br />

stone rooms filled with quirky, old furniture. Excellent<br />

gourmet coffees, handmade chocolates and the Town<br />

Hall Square location are other plusses, but be warned<br />

it can get crowded here. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat<br />

08:00 - 01:00. JSW<br />

Kloostri Ait C-3, Vene 14, tel. (+372) 644 68 87, info@<br />

kloostriait.ee, www.kloostriait.ee. A sad story. Renovation<br />

has turned what was Tallinn's favourite artsy, medieval-style<br />

beer hall into a tourist-oriented café, which unfortunately<br />

lacks any of its former character. Look for simple, Estonian<br />

and international dishes on the somewhat pricey menu.<br />

Management has refused our repeated requests to update<br />

our information, enter at your own risk. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.<br />

(€9.60). JUI<br />

Kohvik Komeet D/E-3/4, Estonia pst. 9 (Solaris<br />

Centre), tel. (+372) 614 00 90, info@kohvikkomeet.<br />

ee, www.kohvikkomeet.ee. This gem of a café located<br />

in the sparkling new Solaris centre has great views, fresh<br />

foods and above all, killer desserts. Did we mention the<br />

awesome desserts? Because if you come here you should<br />

really try some of their excellent desserts. QOpen 10:00<br />

- 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (€7).<br />

T6USW<br />

Matilda C-2, Lühike jalg 4, tel. (+372) 681 65 90, info@<br />

matilda.ee, www.matilda.ee. A seething den of flowers<br />

and femininity, this cutesy little café was once home to the<br />

medieval artist Michel Sittow and specialises in delicious<br />

cakes, such as the Pavlova tort and Marnier biscuit roll, all<br />

made right on the spot. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 -<br />

18:00. J6SW<br />

Pierre Chocolaterie C-3, Vene 6 (in the Masters<br />

Courtyard), tel. (+372) 641 80 61, pierre@pierre.ee,<br />

www.pierre.ee. People squeeze into this quaint, frilly,<br />

19th-century style café for two reasons: One is that it has<br />

its own master Chocolatier who cooks up truffles from<br />

scratch, and the other is the unbeatably cosy atmosphere.<br />

Be warned that seats fill up fast and that during slow times<br />

they occasionally close a little early. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00,<br />

Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. JSW<br />

Reval Café Müürivahe D-2, Müürivahe 14, tel. (+372)<br />

641 81 00, info@revalcafe.ee, www.revalcafe.ee. The<br />

modish combination of jagged, medieval brick and cushy<br />

furnishings could only work in a place like Tallinn. Fine for<br />

intense philosophical debates or dessert. If debating has<br />

gotten you truly hungry, check out the restaurant in the back.<br />

QOpen , Mon, Tue 07:30 - 23:00, Wed, Thu 07:30 - 24:00,<br />

Fri 07:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:30 - 02:00, Sun 08:30 - 23:00.<br />

(€9.60). TJ6UILXSW<br />

Till ja Kummel (Dill & Chamomile) C-2, Nunne 7,<br />

tel. (+372) 670 10 77, kohvik@till-kummel.ee, www.<br />

till-kummel.ee. Brits may find it offensive but pretty much<br />

every, if not all, dishes served here contain the Estonian<br />

mainstay - dill. Not that every dish consists heavily of dill,<br />

but as their name suggests, the addition of the herb to every<br />

dish kind of serves as a 'calling card' - so to speak. Every item<br />

we had here was enjoyed quite thouroughly and the burger<br />

certainly hit the mark - something we actually have a hard<br />

time with here in Tallinn. Lovely little courtyard too, weather<br />

permitting. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00.<br />

Closed Sun. (€9). J<br />

Tallinn <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> tallinn.inyourpocket.com tallinn.inyourpocket.com<br />

October - November 2012

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