Bulletin of the Geological Society of Denmark, Vol. 27/01-02, pp. 15-45

44 Nielsen & Nielsen: Nearshore sediments in non-tidal environment
cm
2DO
JERSIE STRAND Profile 4 nov. 11 th 1971
nov. 26th. 1971
Exaggeration
12.5 x
Fig. 21. Cross profile of line 4 measured on 11/11 and 26/11 i.e.
before and after the gale 22/11. The nearshore terrace is apparently
not influenced by the gale except in the transition into the
nearshore face where a secondary breakpoint bar has been
formed. Surveying was not made during the gale, but by analogy
with earlier records, considerable erosion must have taken place
on the nearshore terrace, which has been rebuilt now 3 days after
the gale. Notice the large accumulations of material behind the
outermost ridge of the barrier.
Concluding remarks
The method described here was chosen in an attempt
to benefit from the advantages of a model
study and obtain unambiguous and precise point
observations, to register short-interval variations
and thus avoid the unfortunate and often unforeseeable
distortion of scale that basin studies
might involve. What it meant in extra time when
establishing the measurement net was regained
during the routine measurements which were
thereby secured a high degree of accuracy. In our
opinion the most valuable observations in this investigation
were obtained thanks to the permanent
grid net which enabled us to take records at
short intervals during dynamically very active
periods and at any time of the day.
The primary goal was to obtain a better knowledge
of the relationship: process/form/change of
form; choice of measuring period was therefore
of minor importance. It should be added, howfig.
22. Swash tongues on the backside of the outermost bar
ridge, formed after the gale 22/11-1971.