are the references to the building plans typical of the different towns around the Island. The exhibition spreads over 18 halls on about 1000 msq. The museum collections include over 7000 finds: textile and wooden handiwork, musical instruments of the oral tradition, working and domestic tools, garments and jewels dating to the period between the end of the XIX and the mid-XX century. At Carnival, Sardinia forcibly expresses its most ancient traditions, which sometimes date back to most ancient times. In Mamoiada, the Mamuthones and Issohadores go on parade: the former wearing a black wooden mask, a black sheep fleece and a resounding cluster of bells; the latter wearing a jacket of red cloth and a waistband with bronze and brass bells, and carrying sa soha, a cord made of rush. There are strong references to the celebration of the victory of the peasants of Barbagia (the issohadores) over the Saracen invaders captured and paraded around (the mamuthones) or even to the ancestral rituals of fertility, attributable to primeval cults spread all over the Mediterranean region. The parade of Samugheo features some analogies with the Barbagian one: the main characters are the Mamutzones, covered in goat fleece with tall headpieces made of cork over which large horns stick out, a black face and carrying two pairs of large bells hanging on the body; s’Urtzu, an anthropomorphic goat with a fleece of black goat; su Omadore, peasant image with a long black jacket. Here, too, are strong references to the ancient Dionysian cults: the mamutzones, followers of Dionysus, dance around s’urtzu, which embodies the worshipped god, whereas su omadore plagues it until its sacrifice. In Bosa, the Karrasegare is an important occasion of community cohesion. In the last days collective hysteria mounts around Gioldzi. Represented by a huge puppet stuffed with straw and cloths, it is the symbol of the dying Carnival. It is its fate, in the evening of the Mardi Gras, to burn at the stake. The ritual is foretold, during the day, by the chorus of the s’attittadora and their mourning marks. Ovodda offers its most famous and frisky aspect on an unusual date: Ash Wednesday. The inhabitants flock down the streets wearing old clothes and with their face blackened with soot, a compulsory requirement even for the tourists attending the celebrations. In the evening, following a day of cheerfulness with offers of cheese, sausages, doughnuts and good wine, it is the time for the trial to the tyrant Don Conte, represented by a huge puppet of devastating ugliness, gross and obscene. Its fate is decided: burnt at the stake. Finally Tempio Pausania, where a Carnival 63
The “Candelieri” of Sassari
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Travel guide General information
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Travel guide General information
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Cala Goloritzè, Baunei
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tonneri (sandstone-limestone format
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improvement of the island through a
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