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Resassol PG-6 Coconut Marketing Sheet - Kinetik

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RESASSOL ® <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT<br />

Mild surfactant from <strong>Coconut</strong> oil<br />

RESASSOL ® <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT is the first derivative from<br />

the new “Green-Cosmetic” project, financed by the<br />

Lombardy Region (Priority Thematic Areas 2009, POR<br />

2007-2013, Objective Regional competitiveness and<br />

occupation).<br />

Res Pharma Industriale has developed new raw<br />

materials for cosmetics through the transesterification of<br />

polyglycerols 6 from vegetables oils, namely coconut oil<br />

derivates to be used as secondary surfactants and from<br />

olive, rice and almond derivates to be used in the field<br />

of emulsions.<br />

The project has involved Res Pharma Industriale, two<br />

small-medium sized companies, a multinational company<br />

and the public body ISMAC CNR for two years (2010-<br />

2012) with the object of developing by means of green<br />

chemistry new streamlined polymer materials from natural<br />

raw materials: vegetable oils, polyglycerols, up to the<br />

realization of innovative cosmetic products through new<br />

materials and processes having a low environmental<br />

impact and significant energy savings.<br />

INCI: <strong>Coconut</strong> oil polyglyceryl -6 esters<br />

New secondary PEG FREE surfactant<br />

based on polyglycerine 6 and coconut oil.


% Inhibition<br />

IN VITRO TEST<br />

The toxicity of surfactants is determined by their capacity to degrade lipids, as the membrane of eukaryotic cells is mainly<br />

composed of lipids they are particularly sensitive to their “degreasing” action.<br />

The permeabilization of the membranes deriving from the use of surfactants determines, initially, the diffusion to the outside<br />

of some cytoplasmic solutes among which the Lactate Dehydrogenase enzyme (LDH) and, subsequently, the death of the<br />

cells.<br />

(The release of LDH in the culture medium is considered an early marker of toxicity because it is possible to find it at the<br />

beginning of the lesion several hours before the death of the cells).<br />

The test was performed on human keratinocytes which represent the first barrier against external aggression, and which<br />

are therefore the first to counter the effects of the surface-acting agents also In Vivo. The cells were exposed to contact<br />

with a solution containing RESASSOL ® <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT at 0.04% and SLES at 0.003% for periods of 60-120 and 180<br />

minutes.<br />

At each interval an assay of the LDH released was carried out, the internal check is represented by an identical solution<br />

of SLES 0.003% containing 0.01% of Betaine, the positive check is represented by the solution of SLES at 0.003%.<br />

At the end of the last incubation of 180 minutes the treatments were removed and replaced with normal culture medium<br />

for a recovery period of 22-24 hours (to check whether the lesions inflicted by the treatment were capable of causing the<br />

death of the cells or not: in other words in this way we also checked the seriousness of the lesions suffered by the cells<br />

regardless of the quantity of LDH released).<br />

PERMEABILIZATION OF MEMBRANES<br />

INHIBITION RELEASE OF LDH<br />

RESASSOL <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT<br />

The results show how the presence of the coconut and<br />

polyglycerol derivate is capable of increasing the dermocompatibility<br />

of the SLES solution; actually, it stops the<br />

release of LDH within the first 120 minutes of exposure and<br />

it reduces it by 93% after 180 minutes. The comparison<br />

with Betaine brings out even more the effectiveness of the<br />

product; indeed, even though it too is capable of reducing<br />

considerably the release of the enzyme after 60 and 120<br />

minutes of treatment, after 180 minutes its action is limited<br />

to inhibiting release of LDH only by 48%.<br />

The results obtained reveal an excellent detoxifying<br />

action of the coconut and polyglycerol derivates with<br />

the SLES solution and therefore a strong capability<br />

of the product to increase the dermo-compatibility<br />

of primary surfactants.<br />

RESASSOL <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT<br />

% VITALITY<br />

RESASSOL <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT<br />

POST RECOVERY VITALITY<br />

The results obtained reveal how both polyglycerols and<br />

betaine have reduced the toxicity of the SLES solution:<br />

Indeed, both allowed a survival level around 100%, while<br />

the cells exposed to SLES only show a vitality of 27%.<br />

Polyglycerols have shown to have a better detoxifying action<br />

considering that, against a survival rate practically equal<br />

to that of betaine, it determines a definitely lower release<br />

of LDH at 180 minutes. The LDH is only one of the proinflammatory<br />

mediators that are released during the<br />

inflammatory reactions typical of an irritation, which can<br />

appear also in the absence of cell death and/or necrosis;<br />

consequently we can say that polyglycerols have a<br />

higher dermo-compatibility and detoxifying action<br />

than betaine has.<br />

RESASSOL<br />

% VITALITY


PHOTOGRAPHS AFTER RECOVERY (MTT)<br />

Pictures show an high mortality of cells<br />

exposed to the SLES solution ( Image 1 ).<br />

On the contrary, the % of survival remarkably<br />

increases for cells exposed to the solution<br />

RESASSOL ® <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT+SLES (<br />

Image 4 ) and BETAINE+SLES ( Image 3).<br />

Notwithstanding both samples set to zero<br />

the % of cell mortality ( vitality experiment),<br />

cells treated with BETAINE+SLES are more<br />

suffering even if alive.<br />

Fig.1: Negative check (4x) Fig.2: RESASSOL® <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT 0.04%<br />

+SLES 0.003% (4x)<br />

These results confirm the results of the<br />

permeabilization of membranes: treatment<br />

with BETAINE does not set to zero the<br />

release of LDH at 180 minutes of exposition;<br />

BETAINE cannot buffer with the same<br />

efficiency the solution of SLES which,<br />

damaging the membranes, compromise the<br />

wellness of treated cells.<br />

RESASSOL ® <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT gives the<br />

best result in terms of increasing the<br />

dermo-compatibility of the SLES<br />

solution.<br />

Fig.3: Betaine 0.01%+SLES 0.003% (4x)<br />

Fig.4: Positive check, SLES 0.003% (4x)<br />

APPLICATION STUDIES<br />

From studies performed both on SLES and SLES FREE surfactant systems, we are able to say that RESASSOL ® <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT<br />

increases foam height and persistence, enriching the formulation with the emollient properties deriving from the starting oil.<br />

FOAM HEIGHT<br />

Foam height of a mixture containing increasing concentration of RESASSOL ® <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT in solution with different primary<br />

surfactants has been evaluated during the time.<br />

+RESASSOL <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT 3%<br />

+RESASSOL <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT 6%<br />

+RESASSOL <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT 3%<br />

+RESASSOL <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT 6%<br />

+RESASSOL <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT 3%<br />

+RESASSOL <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT 6%<br />

In blends with SLES, the RESASSOL ® <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT shows that it improves the foam height with concentrations<br />

above 6%. In particular, it keeps consistency and permanence in time. It was also added to other non<br />

ethoxylated primary surfactants, confirming its capacity to increase and stabilize foam.


With these last surfactants, its effectiveness is revealed at lower<br />

concentrations compared to the combinations with SLES ( 3%).<br />

RESASSOL <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT Vs Betaine<br />

The graph here below even shows that when associated with<br />

the Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside system it is more efficient as a<br />

foam stabilizer than the betaine system.<br />

RESASSOL <strong>PG</strong>6 COCONUT 3%<br />

200ml demineralized water is added to 1% of surfactant mixtures.<br />

10 Pistons hits - diameter 5.5 cm - number of holes: 26 (diameter 0.4 cm)<br />

APPLICATIONS<br />

Recommended for mild formulations, specific for different<br />

ages (baby, senior) and applications on delicate areas<br />

(Intimate hygiene, products for scalp).<br />

TOXICOLOGICAL DATA<br />

Test in Vitro Ocular Irritection ® : Mild irritant<br />

Test in Vitro Dermal Irritection ® : Not irritant<br />

70400_eng<br />

The data provided in this publication is based on our current<br />

knowledge and experience and is offered free of charge and<br />

in good faith for guidance only. It does not constitute a<br />

guarantee in the legal sense of the term and in view of the<br />

multiple factors that may affect processing and applications,<br />

it does not relieve those to whom we supply our products<br />

from the responsibility of carrying out their own tests and<br />

experiments. All express and implied warranties are disclaimed.<br />

Any relevant patent rights and existing legislations and<br />

regulations must be observed.<br />

www.respharma.com<br />

Res Pharma s.r.l.<br />

Via Giulio Pastore, 3 - Trezzo sull'Adda (MI) Italia<br />

Tel. 02.909941 - Fax. 02.90963944<br />

E-mail: info@respharma.com<br />

Register to get access to complete<br />

technical documentation and formula<br />

examples by Centro Tecnico Res Pharma

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