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Colour Chronicle - Sept 2012 - Clariant

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Number 3 | <strong>2012</strong><br />

<strong>Colour</strong> <strong>Chronicle</strong><br />

A <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited Publication<br />

for Textile, Leather and Paper<br />

33 rd year of publication


colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong><br />

Contents<br />

Textile 3<br />

Pekoflam® ECO/SYN<br />

Leonil D-Air<br />

Foron Vermillion – S-WF<br />

Soil & Stain Release<br />

Drimaren® HF Reactive Dyes<br />

Paper 12<br />

Stronger Colors with Cartafix®<br />

Leather 18<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Supports Innovations in Sustainability<br />

Gleanings from press 21<br />

2 colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong>


textile<br />

Pekoflam ® ECO/SYN<br />

A new generation of flame retardants<br />

Bedding & Nightwear<br />

Market segments for flame retardant<br />

textiles<br />

The use of flame retardants is generally required<br />

where fire is a safety hazard of high concern and<br />

where strict regulations need to be matched to protect<br />

human lives.<br />

Common finishing technology for wash<br />

durable cotton<br />

Ammonia curing process<br />

Exclusive technology for > 30 years<br />

X-linkage on fabric with NH3 for highest durability<br />

with high alkaline resistance, applicable for work<br />

wear, home textiles, garments, night-wear, T-shirts<br />

etc., incl. PES / CEL blends, and at high dosage for<br />

lower fabric weights, but requires excessive washes<br />

to remove high level of formaldehyde.<br />

Reactive process, acid catalyzed<br />

Industrial state of the art since > 40 years<br />

Requires resins in combination with catalytic acid<br />

to achieve pH 2, and results in significantly reduced<br />

tensile strength, therefore limited to medium to<br />

heavier weight fabrics, and selected dyes. Reliably<br />

suitable only for cotton blends with ≤ 15% synthetic<br />

fiber contents.<br />

Finishing technology for wash<br />

durable cotton<br />

Pros and cons of established processes<br />

Organic phosphorus-urea precondensates<br />

for ammonia curing process on<br />

blends with more than 20% synthetic<br />

fiber content, for example our Pekoflam ®<br />

DCB or similar reference products.<br />

Excellent wash durability and<br />

performance even on blends with<br />

more than 20% synthetic fiber<br />

content.<br />

Requires special equipment.<br />

Formaldehyde emissions in processing<br />

require extensive washes.<br />

Reactive organic phosphonates used<br />

for cotton, as our Pekoflam ® DPN or<br />

comparable products from other flame<br />

retardant chemicals suppliers.<br />

Easy to apply on existing processing<br />

lines in textile mills.<br />

High level of stenter emissions<br />

frequently requires intense cleaning<br />

cycles.<br />

High impact on tensile strength<br />

limits fabric selection.<br />

Formaldehyde emissions on treated<br />

materials restrict its use for certain<br />

consumer markets.<br />

Novel technology for finishing of<br />

cotton and synthetic blends<br />

New Pekoflam ® ECO/SYN - Confidence<br />

in protection<br />

Suitable application segments and<br />

related fiber compositions.<br />

– Home textiles (CO-LI)<br />

– Tents & tarpaulins (CO-CO/PES)<br />

– Protective & military wear<br />

(CO / PA-CO / PES)<br />

– Nightwear (CO-CL)<br />

Public Transport<br />

Military<br />

Hospitals / Public Buildings<br />

Automotive Interiors<br />

Home furnishings<br />

Protective wear / Work wear<br />

Construction<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong> 3


textile<br />

Technical advantages<br />

– Processing on common finishing<br />

lines.<br />

– Suitable for cotton and selected<br />

natural and regenerated cellulosic<br />

fibres as well as blends with<br />

synthetics.<br />

– Very low impact on fabric strength<br />

allowing wider range of fabric<br />

selection and end-uses.<br />

– Safer processing due to absence of<br />

formaldehyde emissions.<br />

– No oily deposit formation in stenter<br />

compartments, as easily removable<br />

deposits are formed.<br />

– No ‘bad smell’ formation as<br />

observed with established reactive<br />

phosphonate chemistry.<br />

Novel technology for home<br />

textiles<br />

Pekoflam ® ECO/SYN liq.<br />

FR test* according to BS5852 source 5<br />

on a 260 gsm cotton interlining fabric:<br />

– Untreated fabric burns for more<br />

than 120s, whereas treated<br />

Novel technology for protective apparel<br />

Comparison Pekoflam ® ECO/SYN – Pekoflam ® DPN –<br />

Pekoflam ® DCB<br />

FR test according to EN15025 on a royal blue 290 gsm<br />

cotton protective wear fabric:<br />

– DPN treated fabric fails test after 100 domestic<br />

laundries, as flames reach upper mark within<br />

20 seconds, and material is completely charred.<br />

Comparison material treated with our new<br />

technology does not even ignite during contact with<br />

the gas burner flame, comparable to the ammonia<br />

cured fabric treated with DCB.<br />

Technological tests*:<br />

After 100 x 60°C washed Recipes ECO DPN DCB<br />

Phosphorus 2.3 0.4 1.9<br />

Nitrogen 2.3 0.6 1.3<br />

Flammability test according to DIN 15025<br />

(Ignition time 12s, vertical test, surface flaming, two specimens tested in each direction)<br />

After 100 x 60°C washed Recipes ECO DPN DCB<br />

burning duration [s] 0 35 0<br />

glow time [s] 0 0 0<br />

increase of glow [yes / no] No No No<br />

hole arised [cm / no] No No No<br />

burning / melting drops No No No<br />

number of drops 0 0 0<br />

flame reached the top and margins [yes/no] No Yes No<br />

Index 3 0 3<br />

(* done by <strong>Clariant</strong> lab)<br />

material self-extinguishes after<br />

roughly two minutes without<br />

progressive flaming nor any major<br />

mass loss observed.<br />

Benefits of novel finishing<br />

technology<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s concept for sustainable<br />

protection:<br />

– SUSTAINABILITY: Suitable for<br />

renewable fiber materials.<br />

– PROTECTION: Safe handling and<br />

low environmental footprint.<br />

– ECOLOGY: No additional<br />

chemical consumption in rinsing<br />

and no fabric neutralization<br />

needed.<br />

– FLEXIBILITY: High strength<br />

retention enlarges material selection<br />

pool.<br />

– ECONOMY: Cost competitive to<br />

established concepts.<br />

4<br />

Untreated, after 15s Untreated, after 30s Treated, after 60s<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong><br />

Traditional concepts<br />

High formaldehyde emission levels.<br />

Limitations in processing.<br />

Limitations in fiber and weight<br />

selection.<br />

New concept<br />

No formaldehyde emissions.<br />

High flexibility in equipment selection.<br />

Broader application window allowing<br />

solutions other than cotton-based only.


textile<br />

Leonil D-Air<br />

New De-aerating Agent<br />

Characteristics<br />

It has excellent de-aerating property<br />

and thereby facilitates penetration<br />

of processing bath ingredients into<br />

difficult to penetrate cellulosic goods.<br />

It has additional power of strong wetting<br />

and foam-suppression capacity.<br />

Applicable in neutral, acidic and<br />

alkaline baths.<br />

Does not have retarding effect and does<br />

not disturb solubility of dyes.<br />

Prevents vat skinning and smears when<br />

dyeing with vat and sulphur dyes<br />

It is silicone oil free.<br />

De-aerating Power<br />

ref - ref + 2 gpl 2 gpl 2 gpl 2 gpl<br />

time/s iso-propyl water Leonil D- Antimussol Antimussol Leonil EHC<br />

alcohol Air liq UDF liq HTS liq liq conc<br />

0 232 232 232 232 232 232<br />

10 170 232 196 228 228 177<br />

20 170 230 189 225 222 174<br />

30 170 230 186 224 219 173<br />

60 170 230 183 221 213 172<br />

90 170 230 182 219 209 172<br />

120 170 229 181 218 206 172<br />

Total air in system : 232 - 170 = 62<br />

in % 100% 5% 82% 23% 42% 97%<br />

Remark: Iso-propyl alcohol is taken here as a reference system and considered to replace maximum<br />

air (de-aeration power)<br />

Wetting Property by Anchor Method (Alkaline Conditions NaOH 15 gpl)<br />

Wetting time (seconds)<br />

1000<br />

100<br />

10<br />

Liquor Stability with Sensitive<br />

Reactive Dyes<br />

8 g/l Drimaren Turquoise K-2B<br />

x g/l Product<br />

80 g/l Glauber Salt<br />

5 g/l Soda Ash<br />

2 ml/l NaOH 405g/l<br />

200 ml - 60 min / 40°C<br />

Then filter the solution through S & S filter<br />

Paper N° 589/2 under vaccum suction<br />

Leonil D-AIR liq<br />

Competition product A<br />

Competition product B<br />

Competition product C<br />

1<br />

0 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3<br />

Concentration of wetting agent (g/l)<br />

Defoaming power under alkaline conditions (Reactive Dyeing)<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong> 5


textile<br />

Foron ® S-WF<br />

Today’s textile market has become highly<br />

competitive and is witnessing growing<br />

consumer awareness about quality. Under<br />

such conditions, products have to fulfill<br />

the most demanding requirements. In<br />

particular, end-customers are expecting<br />

constant innovation with features such as<br />

wash and wear, easy care and soft touch<br />

(with e.g. micro-fiber articles), together of<br />

course with vibrant and resistant colors.<br />

With the Foron ® S-WF dyestuffs, an<br />

evolution of the Foron ® S-type disperse<br />

dyes (pioneered by <strong>Clariant</strong> in the 1950s<br />

when still operating under the former<br />

Sandoz name), we do not only meet<br />

these requirements, but today can offer<br />

a conclusive range of dyestuffs that<br />

are able to cover the full scope of the<br />

most fashionable shades. Foron ® S-WF<br />

grades, with their market leading color<br />

fastness levels and highest sublimation<br />

fastness, enhance today’s textile products<br />

in the apparel, workwear and sportswear<br />

segments, whilst giving textile producers a<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> has now developed two new dyestuffs to further consolidate this range.<br />

Foron Vermillion S-WF<br />

0.09% 0.27% 0.82% 2.46%<br />

Foron Atlantic Blue S-WF<br />

0.17% 0.52% 1.55% 4.65%<br />

state-of-the-art process with an improved<br />

environmental profile.<br />

The market-leading color consistency of<br />

Foron ® S-WF dyes enables a stable shade<br />

under different light sources, e.g. D65,<br />

CWF TL84 and Tungsten, minimizing<br />

metamerism issues.<br />

The Foron ® S-WF dye range covers<br />

a wide range of fashionable shades from<br />

yellows, oranges and reds, to blues, greens<br />

and navies, to blacks. Present range<br />

includes below elements –<br />

Foron ® Brilliant Yellow S-WF<br />

Foron ® Golden Yellow S-WF<br />

Foron ® Orange S-WF<br />

Foron ® Scarlet S-WF<br />

Foron ® Red S-WF<br />

Foron ® Rubine S-WF<br />

Foron ® Violet S-WF<br />

Foron ® Turquoise S-WF<br />

Foron ® Cyanine S-WF<br />

Foron ® Blue S-WF<br />

Foron ® Dark Blue S-WF<br />

Foron ® Navy S-WF<br />

Foron ® Carbon S-WF<br />

Foron ® Black S-WF<br />

Soil & Stain Release<br />

Increasing Customer Demands<br />

In various activities such as sports,<br />

work or daily life, our clothing not only<br />

often faces expected but also unexpected<br />

situations. Soil, oil, food or liquids might<br />

come into contact with our apparel, leaving<br />

stains which are often hard to remove or<br />

non- removable.<br />

At the same time consumers’ demand<br />

for protection and cleaning properties are<br />

constantly increasing. Therefore the trend<br />

towards soil repellent- and stain releaseimpregnation<br />

is growing, not least to avoid<br />

time consuming and costly cleaning and to<br />

ensure easy care and long life for all kind<br />

of fabrics.<br />

Effect Labels<br />

When customers are looking for clothes<br />

they can easily judge the color and the shape<br />

– but not all their properties. Therefore,<br />

it is absolutely vital to communicate<br />

functional effects such as water repellence,<br />

soil release, etc., which are not easy to<br />

see. These properties add value to the<br />

garments and are therefore a good selling<br />

proposition. This is why <strong>Clariant</strong> provides<br />

you with effect labels to help the customer<br />

recognize properties that are not visible at<br />

first sight. On the following pages, see how<br />

our solutions work for you!<br />

6<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong>


textile<br />

Sustainable Textile Protection for all Market<br />

Requirements<br />

Nuva ® N-Series<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s Nuva ® products fulfill various state of the art demands<br />

concerning protection and care. These effects add innovative<br />

value to your textiles.<br />

Bedding<br />

Upholstery<br />

Casual Wear<br />

Outdoor Upholstery<br />

Consumer Benefits & Environmental Benefits<br />

Nuva ® N4547 liq – State of the Art Protection for Garments and Fabrics<br />

Performance benefits<br />

Excellent oil repellency.<br />

Dramatically improves stain release<br />

during laundering.<br />

Reduces the fabric’s absorption of soil<br />

and stain marks.<br />

Allows fabric to remain breathable.<br />

High durability of all effects.<br />

Mainly engineered for cellulosic<br />

material.<br />

Easy cleaning with no distress for<br />

sensitive fabrics.<br />

Does not change the textile handle.<br />

Wash and wear: stable together with<br />

glyoxal resins such as Arkofix ® ELF liq c,<br />

Arkofix ® NES liq.<br />

Environmental and safety benefits<br />

Preferred Technology as it is based on<br />

C6 chemistry.<br />

Free of PFOS (perfluorooctanyl<br />

sulfonate) and PFOA (perfluorooctanoic<br />

acid).<br />

Resources: saves energy and water.<br />

Less frequent laundering due to natural,<br />

moderate and highly durable repellency<br />

effect.<br />

Low temperature laundering – with<br />

highest quality of soil & stain release<br />

effect.<br />

Extended lifecycles for textile products.<br />

Safe and non-hazardous compounds<br />

with regards to consumer safety.<br />

Table<br />

Cloths<br />

Medical<br />

Sports Wear<br />

Work & Protective Wear<br />

Kids Wear<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong> 7


textile<br />

Nuva ®<br />

N4547 liq – State of the Art<br />

Protection for Garments and Fabrics<br />

Nuva ® N4547 liq provides excellent<br />

passive protection finishing for cellulosic<br />

fibers and fits nicely into a ‚‘wash and<br />

wear’ concept. The newly designed soil<br />

& stain release finish shows a natural<br />

moderate repellence effect against water,<br />

soil and stains, an excellent oil repellency<br />

and a very good air permeability effect.<br />

But it out-performs when stain and soil<br />

has been rubbed on or finds its way into<br />

the fiber through an immediate release of it<br />

during laundering.<br />

Furthermore, with Nuva ® N4547 liq,<br />

additional features can be added because<br />

the product shows the highest compatibility<br />

which results in a multifunctional finish.<br />

Tailor made Solutions<br />

for your Needs – your<br />

preferred Technology<br />

Nuva ® N-Series<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> is a pioneer and an expert for<br />

innovative lifestyle garments and was<br />

one of the first to develop and improve<br />

the fluorobased finishes in textile. We<br />

focus on the most effective, innovative<br />

and sustainable products and processes<br />

and care for consumer demands and our<br />

environment through responsible use of<br />

our earth’s resources.<br />

Natural moderate repelling Very good repelling effect of: Very good effect of:<br />

effect of:<br />

Water Oil Air permeability<br />

Stains are removed faster and easier during laundering!<br />

Unfinished fabric<br />

Fabric finished with Nuva ® N4547 liq<br />

A drop of oil spilled onto After pressing the oil drop After 1 home laundering<br />

the fabric<br />

into the fabric<br />

Soil Release test (according to AATCC 130) done with dirty motor oil.<br />

Passive Protection<br />

Nuva ®<br />

N4547 liq: Designed for passive<br />

protection and therefore fits nicely into<br />

a ‘wash and wear’ concept for cellulosic<br />

based textiles. Besides the fact that high<br />

oil repellence can be archived, the product<br />

shows highest compatibility which results<br />

in a multifunctional finish.<br />

Nuva ®<br />

N4118 liq: Fits into the current<br />

comfort requirement for cotton based<br />

textile materials used close to the skin.<br />

Besides its soil release behaviour, the finish<br />

shows good absorbency and can therefore<br />

be used as highly comfortable finish for<br />

active wear or shirting material.<br />

Active Protection<br />

Nuva ® N2114 liq: State of the art repellent<br />

product with key performance on cotton<br />

and polyamide. Highly efficient with the<br />

focus on outstanding durability.<br />

Nuva ® N2155 liq: Nonionic repellent<br />

product designed for the technical<br />

application field. High compatibility in<br />

combination with so far unmet performance.<br />

The LTC profile (low temperature curing)<br />

allows treatments for sensitive areas.<br />

Mainly recommended for synthetic<br />

materials<br />

5<br />

Nuva ® N4547<br />

Soil Release<br />

4<br />

3<br />

2<br />

Nuva ® N4118<br />

Hydrophilic<br />

Soil Release<br />

Classical<br />

Soil Release<br />

Classical<br />

hydro/oleophobic<br />

Nuva ® N2114<br />

Nuva ® N2155<br />

1<br />

Hydrophilic<br />

Hydrophobic<br />

8<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong>


textile<br />

Drimaren ® HF reactive dyes<br />

Meeting the requirements of the continuous dyer<br />

Concepts behind Drimaren ®<br />

dyes:<br />

Innovation<br />

Performance<br />

Sustainability<br />

Adaptability<br />

Reliability<br />

HF/HF-CD<br />

Main technical advantages<br />

Suitable for all continuous dyeing<br />

processes.<br />

Very high fixation values.<br />

Minimum amount of color passed into<br />

the effluent.<br />

Homogeneous substantivity of the<br />

Drimaren ® HF-CD ternary. Low initial<br />

tailing will be on-tone.<br />

Good diffusion and levelling properties<br />

Excellent solubility.<br />

Very high pad liquor stability (high<br />

alkaline stability).<br />

Similar reactivity for rapid fixation.<br />

Shade unaffected by prolonged fixation<br />

times: High alkaline stability of the<br />

dye-fiber bond.<br />

Excellent washing off properties.<br />

Meet modern fastness requirements.<br />

Continuous dyeing<br />

Drimaren ® HF reactive dyes are<br />

recommended for dyeing cellulosic fabrics<br />

and their blends by all continuous dyeing<br />

processes:<br />

Pad batch.<br />

Pad dry pad steam.<br />

Pad dry thermofix.<br />

Pad wet steam.<br />

Pad moist.<br />

SWIFT process for PES/CEL (pad dry<br />

thermosol pad steam).<br />

High flexibility and effective utilization of<br />

mill capacity.<br />

Current range<br />

Brill. Yellow HF-RL<br />

Golden Yellow HF-CD<br />

Golden Yellow HF-CD<br />

Scarlet HF-3G<br />

Red HF-CD<br />

Red HF-3B<br />

Dark Red HF-CD<br />

Aquamarine HF-CD<br />

Blue HF-RL<br />

Dark Blue HF-CD<br />

Royal Blue HF-CD<br />

Navy HF-GN<br />

Navy HF-B<br />

Green HF-5BL<br />

Innovation for continuous dyeing<br />

Drimaren ® Aquamarine HF-CD<br />

Drimaren ® Dark Blue HF-CD<br />

Drimaren ® Golden Yellow HF-CD<br />

Drimaren ® Navy HF-GN<br />

Drimaren ® Red HF-3B<br />

Drimaren ® Br´. Yellow HF-RL<br />

Positioning of Drimaren ® HF - Focus<br />

products for continuous dyeing<br />

High lightfast pale to medium shades<br />

Golden Yellow HF-CD<br />

Yellow HF-CD<br />

Red HF-CD<br />

Aquamarine HF-CD<br />

Brilliant green, blue and turquoise shades<br />

Brilliant Yellow HF-RL<br />

Green HF-5BL<br />

Aquamarine HF-CD<br />

Royal Blue HF-CD<br />

Medium to deep shades<br />

Golden Yellow HF-CD<br />

Red HF-3B<br />

Dark Red HF-CD<br />

Aquamarine HF-CD<br />

Dark Blue HF-CD<br />

Navy HF-GN<br />

Navy HF-B<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong> 9


textile<br />

Orange and scarlet shades<br />

Golden Yellow HF-CD<br />

Scarlet HF-3G<br />

Red HF-3B<br />

What are the main problems faced by the<br />

continuous dyer?<br />

Shade transfer from lab to production.<br />

Shade reproducibility from batch to<br />

batch in production.<br />

Meeting modern retailer and brand<br />

house fastness requirements.<br />

Shade reproducibility from batch to batch<br />

in production.<br />

What are the main issues faced by the<br />

continuous dyer?<br />

Fabric appearance, penetration and<br />

levelling.<br />

Dyestuff solubility.<br />

Face to back shade variation (emerized<br />

fabrics).<br />

Shade continuity along the length and<br />

width of the fabric (tailing/listing).<br />

Dyestuff migration during pre-drying.<br />

Dyestuff stability to alkaline hydrolysis.<br />

Washing off and wet fastness.<br />

Photochromism.<br />

Fastness properties of the individual<br />

dyestuff.<br />

Improving fabric appearance, penetration<br />

and levelling with Drimaren ® HF dyes.<br />

Dyestuffs with high diffusion are essential<br />

for:<br />

Tightly woven fabrics.<br />

Fabrics constructed from high twist<br />

yarns.<br />

Mercerized fabrics.<br />

Regenerated cellulose, linen and<br />

cellulosic blends (CO:CV, CO:FL).<br />

Emerized fabrics (to improve face to<br />

back shade difference).<br />

Dyestuff stability to alkaline hydrolysis<br />

What can be done to minimize alkaline<br />

hydrolysis?<br />

Automatic liquor dosing systems (ratio<br />

4:1).<br />

Low volume economizer trough (fast<br />

pad liquor turnover time).<br />

Increase the amount of sodium silicate<br />

in the pad batch process (70 ml/l /<br />

38°Bé).<br />

Control of the fixation time and<br />

temperature.<br />

Control of the washing off conditions<br />

(mono VS dyes sensitive to alkaline<br />

washing).<br />

Cooling cylinders are used to cool and<br />

level out the fabric temperature before<br />

padding.<br />

Cooling water jackets around the pad<br />

trough are used to maintain the desired<br />

pad liquor temperature.<br />

Process water cooling systems for<br />

preparation of the dye and alkali<br />

solutions.<br />

Use reactive dyestuffs with high<br />

alkaline stability.<br />

Washing off reactive dyes<br />

Excellent wash and wet fastness properties<br />

can only be achieved by complete removal<br />

of the hydrolyzed dye, alkali and auxiliary<br />

chemicals during a washing off process.<br />

Very high fixation values.<br />

A high level of fixation is essential for<br />

good shade reproducibility, easier washing<br />

out of the unfixed dye and to minimize<br />

the amount of color that passes into the<br />

effluent.<br />

Brill. Yellow HF-RL .................. 96%<br />

Golden Yellow HF-CD ............... 96%<br />

Yellow HF-CD ............................. 92%<br />

Red HF-CD ................................. 90%<br />

Red HF-3B .................................. 97%<br />

Dark Red HF-CD ........................ 98%<br />

Aquamarine HF-CD .................. 90%<br />

Blue HF-RL ................................. 90%<br />

Dark Blue HF-CD ....................... 93%<br />

Royal Blue HF-CD ..................... 90%<br />

Navy HF-GN ............................... 95%<br />

Navy HF-B .................................. 97%<br />

Exchange Phase 1 > Diffusion & Desorption Phase > Exchange Phase 2<br />

10<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong>


Who helped to make my<br />

favorite carpet so comfortable?<br />

title<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> – Your partner for individual carpet procedures.<br />

As new challenges emerge, carpets must meet steadily rising requirements at home, in the office, in<br />

public areas, hotels, airplanes and cars. Carpets and textile ground coverings must fulfill technical requirements<br />

such as soil and water repellence or wear-resistance while also meeting the demands of color,<br />

design and comfort. This is where <strong>Clariant</strong> can help you. We are committed to developing products for<br />

individualized carpet applications that comply with international regulatory standards. Our innovative<br />

products and services, long lasting experience and technical know-how play a key role in manufacturing<br />

and treating, from spinning and dyeing to finishing. <strong>Clariant</strong> is close to you. Any time. Any place.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited, Sandoz Baug, Kolshet Road, Thane (W) 400 607. www.clariant.in<br />

What do you need?<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong> 11


paper<br />

Stronger Colors with Cartafix ®<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> – Your Fixative<br />

Specialist<br />

There is no universal fixative to solve<br />

all challenges in the paper coloration<br />

process, so <strong>Clariant</strong> has developed the<br />

Cartafix range to offer a specialized<br />

product for every fixation problem. Where<br />

deep and brilliant shades are required,<br />

fastness properties have to be improved,<br />

food contact is needed or the backwater<br />

has to be exactly controlled, the Cartafix<br />

range is the right choice.<br />

Cartafix – a wide variety of different<br />

fixatives for various application areas:<br />

For every dye or shade<br />

fixation problem, there<br />

is a Cartafix solution by<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>.<br />

Fixation for all kind of anionic dyes<br />

and pigments<br />

Inkjet-fixatives for coating & sizepress<br />

formulations<br />

Fixatives for anionic trash - and<br />

deposit control to improve drainage,<br />

fines & filler retention<br />

– Charge control<br />

– Improved retention<br />

– Better runnability<br />

– Pitch control<br />

– Fixation of stickies<br />

Coagulates for fresh and waste water<br />

clarification<br />

To discover more about the interactions<br />

between parameters during dyeing and<br />

fixation, <strong>Clariant</strong> has conducted an<br />

extensive dye fixation study. Different<br />

types of dyes and fixatives were applied<br />

to paper at different addition levels. To<br />

compare the recipes and establish the<br />

best solutions, more than 6,500 data<br />

points (dyeing strength, shade drift, light<br />

fastness, backwater rate, bleed fastness,<br />

for example) were collected and analyzed.<br />

With this experience and knowledge,<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> offers the best solutions for each<br />

and every fixative challenge.<br />

Cartafix – Three categories of<br />

dye fixatives<br />

Epichlorohydrin-based chemistry: e.g.,<br />

Cartafix F liq., Cartafix FF liq.<br />

Broad application possibilities: suitable<br />

for almost all anionic dyes.<br />

Formaldehyde free.<br />

Highly efficient.<br />

Modest change of zeta potential on the<br />

fibers.<br />

Food contact compliance (BfR XXVI,<br />

FDA).<br />

Best fixative for Cartasol Turquoise<br />

FRL liq. (pre-fixation required).<br />

Dicyandiamide-based chemistry: e.g.,<br />

Cartafix WE liq., Cartafix SWE liq.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s extensive paper<br />

dye fixatives range covers<br />

several chemistry families<br />

that are suitable for many<br />

applications.<br />

Modest shade-drift<br />

Suitable application for brilliant<br />

shades<br />

Products with and without<br />

formaldehyde<br />

Food contact compliance<br />

Good light fastness properties<br />

Very efficient for waste water<br />

treatment.<br />

Poly-DADMAC-based: e.g., Cartafix VXD<br />

liq., Cartafix VXL liq.<br />

Brilliant shades with the yellow range.<br />

No strong shade drift.<br />

Good fastness properties (alcohol<br />

fastness / tissue).<br />

Formaldehyde free for the full range of our<br />

fixatives and their respective advantages,<br />

limitations and application areas.<br />

Influence of Fixatives on Shade<br />

Cartafix F liq. Unfixed Cartafix WE liq. Cartafix F liq. Unfixed Cartafix WE liq. Cartafix F liq. Unfixed Cartafix WE liq. Cartafix F liq. Unfixed Cartafix WE liq.<br />

Increasing Fixative<br />

Direct Yellow 137 –<br />

Cartasol ® Yellow 2GFN liq.<br />

Direct Red 239 –<br />

Cartasol ® Red 2GFN liq.<br />

Direct Blue Metal-free –<br />

Cartasol ® Blue 3R-EU liq.<br />

Direct Blue Metal-containing<br />

– Cartasol ® Blue GDF liq. New<br />

12<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong>


paper<br />

Properties, shade related<br />

Cartafix F Cartafix WE Cartafix VXD<br />

Application Suitable for fixing of Suitable for fixing of Suitable for fixing of<br />

almost all anionic dyes almost all anionic dyes a broad range of<br />

anionic dyes<br />

Shade Most shades turn Most shades stay stable Most shades stay stable<br />

redder and duller (dyestuff dependent) (dyestuff dependent)<br />

(dyestuff dependent)<br />

Brightness Some shades turn duller Most shades stay stable Most shades stay stable<br />

(dyestuff dependent) (dyestuff dependent) (dyestuff dependent)<br />

CIE L*a*b*-Color space, shade development with fixative<br />

Direct Yellow 137 - Cartasol Yellow 2GFN liq.<br />

Direct Red 239 - Cartasol Red 2GFN liq.<br />

82<br />

25<br />

81<br />

24<br />

80<br />

79<br />

78<br />

23<br />

22<br />

77<br />

21<br />

b*-value<br />

76<br />

75<br />

b*-value<br />

20<br />

19<br />

74<br />

73<br />

72<br />

18<br />

17<br />

71<br />

16<br />

70<br />

10 1 1 12 1 3 14 1 5 16 1 7 18 1 9 20 2 1 22<br />

a*-value<br />

15<br />

46 4 7 48 4 9 50 5 1 52 5 3 54 5 5 56<br />

a*-value<br />

Direct Blue Metal-free - Cartasol Blue 3R-EU liq.<br />

a*-value<br />

3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 1 1 12 1 3<br />

-22<br />

-23<br />

-24<br />

-25<br />

-26<br />

Direct Blue Metal-containing - Cartasol Blue<br />

GDF liq. New<br />

a*-value<br />

-12 -11 -10 -9 - 8 -7 - 6 -5 - 4 -3 - 2<br />

-17<br />

-18<br />

-19<br />

-20<br />

-21<br />

b*-value<br />

-27<br />

-28<br />

-22<br />

-23<br />

b*-value<br />

-29<br />

-24<br />

-30<br />

-25<br />

-31<br />

-26<br />

-32<br />

-27<br />

◦ Unfixed dyeing in ½ standard depth<br />

– – – Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix F liq.<br />

——— Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix WE liq.<br />

.............. Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix VXD liq.<br />

Influence of Fixatives on Backwater<br />

Properties, backwater related<br />

Cartafix F Cartafix WE Cartafix VXD<br />

Effect Gives clear backwater on Gives clear backwater Gives clear backwater<br />

almost all anionic dyes on a broad range of on a broad range of<br />

anionic dyes<br />

anionic dyes<br />

Efficiency Clears backwater Clears backwater Clears the backwater<br />

efficiently at efficiently at low dosage. in a specific<br />

low dosage Good for waste water addition range<br />

treatment<br />

Overdosage Backwater stays Backwater rating Backwater will<br />

clear for a long time gradually worsens worsen if overdosed<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong> 13


paper<br />

Influence of Fixatives on Backwater<br />

Backwater samples with Cartafix WE.<br />

5.0<br />

Direct Yellow 137 – Cartasol Yellow 2GFN liq.<br />

4.5<br />

4.0<br />

Grey scale rating<br />

3.5<br />

3.0<br />

2.5<br />

unfixed | increasing fixative<br />

2.0<br />

1.5<br />

1.0<br />

0%<br />

Increasing fixative<br />

5.0<br />

Direct Red 239 – Cartasol Red 2GFN liq.<br />

4.5<br />

4.0<br />

Grey scale rating<br />

3.5<br />

3.0<br />

2.5<br />

unfixed | increasing fixative<br />

2.0<br />

1.5<br />

1.0<br />

0%<br />

Increasing fixative<br />

5.0<br />

Direct Blue Metal-free – Cartasol Blue 3R-EU liq.<br />

4.5<br />

4.0<br />

Grey scale rating<br />

3.5<br />

3.0<br />

2.5<br />

unfixed | increasing fixative<br />

2.0<br />

1.5<br />

1.0<br />

0%<br />

Increasing fixative<br />

5.0<br />

Direct Blue Metal-containing – Cartasol Blue GDF liq.<br />

4.5<br />

4.0<br />

Grey scale rating<br />

3.5<br />

3.0<br />

2.5<br />

unfixed | increasing fixative<br />

2.0<br />

1.5<br />

1.0<br />

0%<br />

Increasing fixative<br />

– – – Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix F liq. —— Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix WE liq. ......... Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix VXD liq.<br />

14<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong>


paper<br />

Influence of Fixatives on the Light Fastness<br />

Light fastness samples with Cartafix F.<br />

5.0<br />

5.0<br />

4.5<br />

4.5<br />

4.0<br />

4.0<br />

3.5<br />

3.5<br />

Blue scale rating<br />

3.0<br />

2.5<br />

Blue scale rating<br />

3.0<br />

2.5<br />

2.0<br />

2.0<br />

1.5<br />

1.5<br />

1.0<br />

0%<br />

1.0<br />

0%<br />

Increasing fixative<br />

Increasing fixative<br />

Direct Yellow 137 – Cartasol Yellow 2GFN<br />

liq. : Strong impact on light fastness<br />

Direct Red 239 – Cartasol Red 2GFN liq. :<br />

Medium impact on light fastness<br />

5.0<br />

5.0<br />

4.5<br />

4.5<br />

4.0<br />

4.0<br />

3.5<br />

3.5<br />

Blue scale rating<br />

3.0<br />

2.5<br />

Blue scale rating<br />

3.0<br />

2.5<br />

2.0<br />

2.0<br />

1.5<br />

1.5<br />

1.0<br />

0%<br />

Increasing fixative<br />

Direct Blue Metal-free – Cartasol Blue<br />

3R-EU liq. : Low impact on light fastness<br />

Direct Blue Metal-containing – Cartasol<br />

Blue GDF liq. New : No impact on light<br />

fastness<br />

– – – Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix F liq. —— Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix WE liq. ......... Dyestuff fixed with Cartafix VXD liq.<br />

Properties, light fastness related<br />

Cartafix F Cartafix WE Cartafix VXD<br />

Non metallised dyes Moderate reduction of Minimal reduction Dyes are affected as usual for<br />

light fastness of light fastness traditional fixatives / moderate impact<br />

Metallised Dyes Some impact on light Minimal reduction Some impact on light fastness<br />

fastness - dye specific of light fastness - dye specific<br />

Overdosage No further light fastness No further light No further light fastness<br />

decrease fastness decrease decrease<br />

1.0<br />

0%<br />

Increasing fixative<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong> 15


paper title<br />

Cartafix Range Overview<br />

Paper Chemistry Function and Bleed Backwater Trash Comments<br />

Properties fastness control<br />

Cartafix EPN Standard dye +++ ++ + Improves backwater<br />

fixative<br />

and bleedfastness<br />

Cartafix FF EPN Standard dye fixative, +++ ++ + Improves backwater<br />

high solids version<br />

and bleedfastness<br />

Cartafix WE DCDA Standard dye fixative +++ ++ + for brillant shades, can<br />

(< 0.1% formaldehyde) coagulate dyes in waste water<br />

Cartafix SWE DCDA Special product ++ ++ 0 for brillant shades, can<br />

coagulate dyes in waste water<br />

Cartafix E50 DCDA Special product, ++ ++ 0 for brillant shades, can<br />

Solvent-free dispersion.<br />

coagulate dyes in waste water<br />

Limited solubility (max. 3.0%<br />

at room temperature)<br />

Cartafix VXD DADMAC Low molecular weight ++ +(+) + for brillant shades, can coagulate<br />

Poly-DADMAC<br />

dyes in waste water, for example<br />

in tissue dyeing (deep shades),<br />

good alcohol fastness, good<br />

runnability. May cause bad<br />

backwater if overdosed.<br />

Cartafix VXL DADMAC Medium molecular ++ +(+) + or brillant shades, can coagulate<br />

weight<br />

dyes in waste water, for example<br />

Poly-DADMAC<br />

in tissue dyeing (deep shades),<br />

good alcohol fastness, good<br />

runnability. May cause bad<br />

backwater if overdosed.<br />

Cartafix NTC EPN High molecular (+) +++ +++ Improves backwater<br />

weight fixative<br />

Anionic trash control<br />

Cartafix CB EPN High molecular (+) +++ +++ Improves backwater<br />

weight fixative<br />

Anionic trash control<br />

Cartafix KFN/ PAC Possibility to reduce + + +++ Improved retention and<br />

Cartafix LA costs; Alternative yield fixative (Cartafix LA<br />

to Al2 (SO4)3<br />

mainly for pigment preparations)<br />

This brochure regarding <strong>Clariant</strong>‘s Cartafix<br />

range of cationic fixatives provides guidance<br />

regarding the products. Fixatives have different<br />

effect on shades depending on the chemistry of<br />

the dye and the fixative. Changes in the dyeing<br />

system, such as furnish, pH, temperature,<br />

water hardness, contact time, process and<br />

sizing chemicals, and order of addition of dyes<br />

will not only influence the dyeing, but also the<br />

fixation results. Each dyeing recipe has to be<br />

checked under customer conditions.<br />

Please contact your regional <strong>Clariant</strong><br />

technologist for more information.<br />

16<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong>


title<br />

How can I reach the ultimate white?<br />

® Leucophor is a registered trademark of <strong>Clariant</strong>.<br />

Leucophor ® XL – out of the blue, the ultimate white.<br />

Whiter, brighter, yet at lower cost. Leucophor ® XL replaces traditional optical brightening agents and<br />

shading colorants with new, proprietary formulations for size-press and coating that use up to 30%<br />

less material for the same effect. Available in a variety of grades to match your whiteness requirements<br />

for both paper and board. Make your future a whiter shade of white – with Leucophor ® XL.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Ltd, BU Paper Specialties, P.O. Sandoz Baug, Kolshet Road, Thane – 400 607, India.<br />

Tel: +91 22 2531 5392, Fax: +91 22 2531 5092, E-mail: ccilpaper.group@clariant.com, www.clariant.in<br />

What do you need?<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong> 17


leather<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Supports Innovations<br />

in Sustainability<br />

Sustainability in Wet End with New Range of Retanning Agents<br />

It has become apparent in recent years<br />

that the concept of sustainability means<br />

different things to different people.<br />

The basic raw material of the leather<br />

industry can be considered sustainable in<br />

the sense that the husbandry of livestock<br />

from which the industry obtains its<br />

supplies as a byproduct can be relied upon<br />

to continue. It can be argued that no cattle,<br />

sheep, or pigs and many other species are<br />

being bred for the benefit of the leather<br />

production chain. In world terms, there is a<br />

sustainable cycle.<br />

As a leading international supplier<br />

of both chemicals and chemistry-based<br />

solutions to the leather sector, <strong>Clariant</strong> is<br />

very clear about how it views sustainability.<br />

Put simply, it is the development of<br />

innovative solutions to address the most<br />

relevant global trends while limiting the<br />

burden on people, the environment and<br />

resources.<br />

In pursuance of these aims, the company<br />

has been introducing over many years,<br />

products that simplify the production of<br />

finished leather while at the same time<br />

meeting the demands of international,<br />

regional and local legislation. These<br />

initiatives have been applied throughout<br />

the tanning stages, including retanning and<br />

finishing.<br />

Nowadays, the primary market<br />

requirements for any leather article is<br />

performance. This means it is necessary<br />

to improve the unique leather properties<br />

such as water vapour absorption and<br />

permeability, robustness and ductility, or<br />

the ability to deform under tensile stress,<br />

for footwear, its elegance and durability<br />

for upholstery leather, and softness and<br />

elegance for garments and leather goods.<br />

On the other hand, consumers and<br />

legislation, demand more sustainable<br />

aspects and expect the absence of any<br />

harmful substances in the finished leather.<br />

Unnecessary and negative headlines<br />

have already harmed the image of other<br />

materials and associated companies and<br />

industries.<br />

The leather manufacturing industry<br />

and the tanneries have to follow these<br />

market requirements. But they also need a<br />

production process that is more resourcesaving,<br />

less polluting and generating less<br />

waste; at the same time it must result<br />

in further improved functionality and<br />

durability of the leather goods. Better<br />

economies in production and easier<br />

leather manufacturing processes should be<br />

designed to support the tanner in providing<br />

the highest quality standards that benefit<br />

all. Balancing these – sometimes almost<br />

contradictory – customer and consumer<br />

demands, cannot be taken for granted.<br />

The environmental impact and aspects<br />

of economy have to be balanced, so that<br />

the individual tanner has the support and<br />

benefit of innovative products or processes.<br />

This is the basic principle behind any of<br />

the developments initiated by <strong>Clariant</strong>.<br />

We are pleased to announce the further<br />

strengthening of our wet end chemicals<br />

range with the introduction of the following<br />

products:<br />

Tanicor RS-38 powder : Phenol based universal retanning agent<br />

Tanicor RS-40 powder: Phenol based white retanning agent<br />

Tergotan RE-5020 powder: Amino Resin based retanning agent<br />

18<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong>


Tanicor RS-38 powder: Phenol based<br />

universal retanning agent<br />

Contains very low free formaldehyde<br />

of < 50 ppm in the product<br />

Universal Retanning agents suitable for<br />

all type of leather<br />

Very good light fastness and heat<br />

resistance<br />

Very low free phenol<br />

Very clear, unloaded grain with good<br />

resilience and mellowness<br />

Tight grain<br />

Full colors – low bleaching<br />

Excellent compatibility with other<br />

retanning agents<br />

Tanicor RS-40 powder: Phenol based<br />

white retanning agent<br />

Contains very low free formaldehyde<br />

of < 50 ppm in the product<br />

Special Retanning agents for white<br />

leathers and light colors<br />

Excellent light fastness and heat<br />

resistance<br />

Very low free phenol<br />

Tight grain<br />

High bleaching and whiteness effect<br />

Excellent compatibility with other<br />

retanning agents<br />

Dye Levelness<br />

leather<br />

Tergotan RE-5020 powder : Amino Resin<br />

based retanning agent<br />

Suitable for all type of leathers<br />

excluding white<br />

Excellent grain tightness<br />

High filling action on empty parts of<br />

the hides and skins<br />

Good light fastness and heat resistance<br />

Full colors – low bleaching<br />

Summary<br />

Developing better solutions is always our target. <strong>Clariant</strong> is committed to generating genuine, sustainable added value. It will require<br />

the best possible balance between ecological, social and economic needs; the highest priorities are personal safety and environmentally<br />

sound processes and products. It remains the mission for the future.<br />

With this new range of syntans, we offer the combined advantages of Compactness, Economical competitiveness, High performance<br />

and Reduced levels of free formaldehyde and free phenol compared to standard products.<br />

Sustainability in finishing with aqueous topcoat technology<br />

Traditionally, solvent-based Nitrocellulose<br />

(NC) and Cellulose Acetate Butyrate<br />

(CAB) lacquers have been used in<br />

leather finishing. Today they have been<br />

largely substituted by aqueous top coats.<br />

Notwithstanding, there is a clear drive<br />

towards aqueous systems with low or no<br />

VOC and <strong>Clariant</strong> is at the forefront of this<br />

trend for sustainable solutions and systems.<br />

Besides reducing solvent in finishing top<br />

coats, it is also important to reduce or<br />

eliminate hazardous materials such as NMP<br />

or phthalates to support the concept of<br />

sustainability. In particular, NMP provided<br />

several positive effects in leather finishing,<br />

especially when the complete system<br />

is perhaps a little critical. For example,<br />

levelling can become more even, and a jet<br />

blackness can be improved.<br />

NMP: Problems in Toxicity and VOC<br />

Environmental problems have driven<br />

NMP-free finishing systems, but there are<br />

also technical problems. These relate to the<br />

migration of solvents that remain in leathers<br />

after drying. Over time, and especially at<br />

raised temperatures, the mobility of small<br />

non fixed solvent molecules can lead to<br />

diffusion into deeper layers of the leather.<br />

Other substances – such as fat liquors,<br />

retanning agents or dyes – that are located<br />

deep in the structure – have a relatively low<br />

mobility. However, these substances may<br />

become quasi-dissolved in the solvents of<br />

higher mobility. In this event they can be<br />

transported to surface of the leather.<br />

Sustainable Elimination of NMP and VOC<br />

Reduction in Finishing Systems<br />

The ability to create more sustainable<br />

finishes took a quantum leap forward in<br />

1992 when <strong>Clariant</strong> introduced waterbased<br />

top when it eliminated NMP, and<br />

of course NEP, in its top coats specifically<br />

for automotive leathers. In 2001, <strong>Clariant</strong><br />

developed a research project to replace<br />

NMP in all leather finishing products, not<br />

just those for the automotive sector. The<br />

first step was to produce all polyurethane<br />

dispersions without using NMP. This<br />

was accomplished by intelligent process<br />

management and included variations of the<br />

polymer recipes to produce all binders with<br />

the same quality but without NMP, and in<br />

many cases with even less VOC. What<br />

does that mean for the manufacturer and<br />

the end user? Put simply, less emissions<br />

during production and manufacturing and<br />

a clear reduction of prohibited materials<br />

being exposed to consumers.<br />

Nowadays all types of leather can be<br />

produced without the need of NMP, using<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s Aqualen® product range. Even<br />

automotive leather which has the highest<br />

requirements on fastness can be produced<br />

with a significantly lower amount of<br />

VOC. An example of the latest innovation<br />

driving sustainability in leather finishing<br />

forward, is the replacement of solvent<br />

based classical patent leather top coats by<br />

pure aqueous ones.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s Aqualen Top APT shows<br />

very clearly the possibilities generated<br />

by today’s technology. The gloss, feel,<br />

physical and general appearance of an<br />

aqueous patent leather imitation top coat<br />

without any NMP have never been so<br />

similar in matching classical solvent based<br />

systems.<br />

Patent leather articles made with an<br />

Aqualen Top APT top coat can be either<br />

smooth and in a uniform shade, embossed<br />

or with an aqueous effect made with<br />

Aqualen Top SIL, which is also a pure<br />

aqueous intermediate effect topcoat<br />

generating a fully aqueous patent leather<br />

finishing system.<br />

New Central Customer Service E-mail ID<br />

BU Leather Services of <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India)<br />

Ltd. has launched its new central customer service<br />

E-mail ID: IndialeatherCSD@clariant.com. <br />

The new central ID is an integral part of<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong>’s objective to ensure complete customer<br />

satisfaction. <strong>Clariant</strong>’s customers are requested<br />

to direct their any queries to this E-mail ID as a<br />

part of their regular contacts.<br />

This will help us to avoid any delay in<br />

responding the customers even if one of the<br />

customer service team member is unable to<br />

attend the query.<br />

The center will record and process all<br />

customer issues centrally and will resolve them<br />

quickly and efficiently.<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong> 19


Will there be a bag and belt<br />

to match this color?<br />

Melioderm ® is a registered Trademark of <strong>Clariant</strong>.<br />

Be certain, be certified – use Melioderm ®<br />

With Melioderm ® dyestuffs, you get exactly the same shade and tone every time, right across the<br />

color palette, whether today, tomorrow or years from now. And you will also be compliant with<br />

all the relevant environmental and safety rules. Whether for shoes, furniture, fashion or high-tech<br />

automotive, Melioderm ® is a costeffective top-performer. So choose <strong>Clariant</strong>, and choose the best.<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited, BU Leather Services, Kences Towers, 2nd Floor, 1 Ramakrishna Road,<br />

Tamil Nadu – 600017, India. www.clariant.in<br />

What do you need?


gleanings from press<br />

Gujarat to come up with<br />

integrated textile policy to<br />

raise competitiveness<br />

Gujarat would be coming up with an<br />

integrated textile policy soon and it<br />

will aim at strengthening the industrial<br />

sector that accounts for 23% of the state’s<br />

GDP.<br />

While addressing the garment<br />

entrepreneurs at the 20th Gujarat Garment<br />

Manufacturers Associations’ ‘National<br />

Garment Fair’ here, Modi stated that<br />

the state requires a policy, which has<br />

the potential to look beyond the cotton<br />

cultivators’ or spinners’ interest.<br />

Moreover, the recommended policy<br />

would increase the competitiveness of the<br />

state and offer a level playing field with<br />

the other textile and garment producing<br />

destinations in India.<br />

He stated that the state is in need of<br />

a policy, which can emphasize beyond<br />

the individual interests of the cotton<br />

cultivators, ginners, or yarn and fabric<br />

makers. Modi said that it is time for<br />

Gujarat to adopt cluster approach for<br />

strengthening the local textile industry<br />

and also make it competitive at the<br />

international level.<br />

Govt pins hopes to achieve<br />

textile export target of $ 40.5<br />

bn in FY13<br />

The government sees promising aspects<br />

of achieving the textile export target of<br />

$40.5 billion for the current financial year<br />

(<strong>2012</strong>-13) regardless the slowdown in<br />

demand from major western markets such<br />

as the US and Europe.<br />

After inaugurating 55th National<br />

Garment Fair here, Textiles Secretary,<br />

Ms. Kiran Dhingra, said, “We are hopeful<br />

of achieving the textile export target of $<br />

40.5 billion in current fiscal as compared<br />

to $ 33 billion in FY 12.”<br />

The Textile Ministry is concerned over<br />

the demand drop in major western markets<br />

like the US and Europe, but new markets<br />

like Latin America, Africa and Middle<br />

East have good potential.<br />

“After sops were announced in the<br />

Foreign Trade Policy (FTP), exporters<br />

have responded positively and based on it<br />

we have revised this year’s textiles exports<br />

target upwards from $ 38 billion to $ 40.5<br />

billion,” she added.<br />

The segments like apparel, handicrafts<br />

and carpets are optimistic about exports<br />

performance this year.<br />

Jindal Group plans<br />

` 1,500 cr technical textile<br />

unit in Nashik<br />

Manufacturing conglomerate Jindal<br />

Group has announced its plans to set<br />

up a ` 1,500 crore technical textile unit in<br />

Nashik district of north Maharashtra.<br />

In the same development, a Letter<br />

of Intent (LoI) has been issued by the<br />

textile ministry after the Group officials<br />

met Mohammed Arif Naseem Khan, the<br />

Textile Minister, last week.<br />

At present, the group is underway of<br />

acquiring land. The proposed unit will<br />

require nearly 100 acres of land and it will<br />

manufacture cloth related to automobile<br />

applications, sports, security, medical and<br />

fire fighting equipment.<br />

Primarily, technical textile products<br />

are used for their technical performance<br />

and functional properties.<br />

Since the government announced a<br />

new textile policy a few months back,<br />

investment proposals worth around<br />

` 5,000 crore had been received.<br />

Fong’s buys German textile<br />

machinery firm Monforts<br />

Hong Kong- listed Fong’s Industries<br />

Co. Ltd. recently announced that<br />

it has acquired a 100 percent stake in<br />

A Monforts Textilemaschinen GmbH<br />

& Co. KG. (Monforts) from Germanybased<br />

L Possehl Co. & GmbH (Possehl).<br />

Monforts is based in the Western German<br />

city of Monchengladbach. The acquisition<br />

includes Monforts Austrian subsidiary<br />

Montex-Maschinenfabrik Ges.m.b.H with<br />

its machine production site in St. Stefan.<br />

The 50 percent stake in the Monforts<br />

Fong’s Textile Machinery Co. Ltd., the<br />

jointly controlled entity between Fong’s<br />

and Monforts Group, is also part of the<br />

transaction. In addition, Possehl has<br />

agreed to subscribe a 9.9 percent stake in<br />

a Fong’s subsidiary, which directly holds<br />

Monforts and Monfongs.<br />

Teijin to launch anti-sweat<br />

comfort polyester fabric<br />

T<br />

eijin Fibers will launch the new fabric<br />

for all-season sportswear targeting<br />

the fall/winter 2013 and spring/summer<br />

2014 seasons , as well as for casual wear<br />

and uniforms. The new polyester fabric<br />

has a three-layer structure consisting<br />

of an inner, fully hydrophobic layer of<br />

moisture-repellant polyester fibers, a<br />

middle moisture-absorption layer and an<br />

outer moisture-diffusion layer.<br />

Once sweat has been absorbed by the<br />

middle layer the inner hydrophobic layer<br />

keeps moisture from returning to the skin<br />

to prevent the wearer from becoming<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong> 21


gleanings from press<br />

chilled, and to prevent the fabric from<br />

sticking to the skin even when perspiring<br />

heavily. The capillary-type pump action of<br />

three-layer structure quickly absorbs and<br />

diffuses sweat to promote fast drying.<br />

Chinese textile companies<br />

keep on setting up units in<br />

Gujarat<br />

China’s textile companies have evinced<br />

interest in setting up manufacturing<br />

units in Gujarat, a State Government<br />

official said recently. Looking to partner<br />

with Gujarat-based companies, Chinese<br />

companies have also shown interest in<br />

investing in infrastructure projects, heavy<br />

engineering and equipment, renewable<br />

energy and the auto sector. Memorandums<br />

of understanding (MoUs) in this regard<br />

are expected to be linked during the next<br />

Vibrant Gujarat Summit in January 2013.<br />

This follows the November 2011 visit<br />

of the Gujarat Chief Minister Narendra<br />

Modi, to China.<br />

Nilit cooling yarn verified in<br />

independent tests<br />

Leading Israeli Nylon 6.6 producer Nilit<br />

announced recently that its innovative<br />

patent pending Nilit Breeze specialty yarn<br />

is available as a performance fiber for<br />

sportswear, hosiery, underwear, shapewear,<br />

socks, outerwear and workwear. Available<br />

in specially textured and flat nylon 6.6<br />

yarns, NilitBreeze fabrics are cool wearers<br />

by almost one degree celcius when<br />

compared to fabrics knitted with standard<br />

fibers. According to Nilit, independent<br />

testing was performed by the Centexbel<br />

Textile Research Center in Belgium and<br />

a copy of certificate is available upon<br />

request from Nilit. “NilitBreeze ends the<br />

era of hot, uncomfortable active wear. The<br />

yarn’s cooling effect comes from a special<br />

cross-section, the insertion of an inorganic<br />

additive in the polymer itself and a unique<br />

texturing process,” Nilit explained in a<br />

statement recently.<br />

XTIO2 launches 100%<br />

anti-germ certified fabric<br />

XTIO2 Active-Shield Fabric has reached<br />

the world’s highest antibacterial<br />

efficacy rate of 100% proven by the<br />

world’s leading inspection, verification,<br />

testing and certification company SGS,<br />

based on the standardized AATCC100 test<br />

by the American Association of Textile<br />

Chemists and <strong>Colour</strong>ists.<br />

XTIO2 is the only company in the world<br />

whose Tio2-nanocoating technology has<br />

received 100% effective anti-germ results<br />

on coated materials from SGS against<br />

dangerous E.coli and MRSA (s.aureus)<br />

bacteria. Tests were commissioned by<br />

cleancoating LLC (Philadelphia)<br />

Indian govt initiates new<br />

survey of powerloom sector<br />

The Ministry of Textiles, Government<br />

of India, has entrusted a new project<br />

titled ‘Baseline survey of Powerloom<br />

Sector’ to AC Nielsen ORG MARG Pvt.<br />

Ltd., New Delhi.<br />

The surveyors have been asked to<br />

complete their study in nine-months time.<br />

They will gather information related<br />

to installed and working capacity of the<br />

powerlooms, the age of the machines, man<br />

power employed by powerloom units, and<br />

financial and technology related details.<br />

The information collected through the<br />

survey would be utilized in development<br />

planning and policy formulation by the<br />

Government.<br />

New non-halogen based<br />

flame retardant adhesive<br />

coatings<br />

Scapa, one of the leading custom<br />

adhesive coating and lamination<br />

companies worldwide, is proud to<br />

introduce new non-halogen based adhesive<br />

capabilities to address the growing need<br />

for chlorine and bromine formulation<br />

alternatives for industrial applications.<br />

Non-halogen based adhesives are<br />

environmentally friendly and offer textile<br />

manufacturer and converters a variety of<br />

benefits including: no hydrochloric byproducts,<br />

lower smoke generation, ageing<br />

stability, low migration, non-weight gain<br />

and waterproofing.<br />

Recent non-halogen adhesive<br />

application successes with military, law<br />

enforcement, aerospace, automotive,<br />

decorative fabric and foam manufacturers<br />

have shown broad range of uses and<br />

successfully maintained or increased<br />

UV stability, water resistance, and fire<br />

retardant properties versus traditional<br />

halogen based adhesives.<br />

Scapa offers its partners customized<br />

solutions and will work within product<br />

and industry spec to provide the optimal<br />

solution. Scapa’s onsite technical service<br />

and R&D teams utilised advanced<br />

laboratory equipment systems and<br />

implement tolerance specific testing<br />

procedures, including UL 94 vertical<br />

flame testing methods.<br />

Scapa is a worldwide leading<br />

manufacturer of bonding products and<br />

adhesive components for applications in<br />

the electronics, healthcare, industrial and<br />

transportation markets.<br />

Textile industry hails debt<br />

recast plan approval<br />

T<br />

he Indian textile industry has breathed<br />

a sign of relief with the Finance<br />

Ministry showing the green signal for<br />

the Textile Ministry’s proposals on<br />

restructuring about ` 35,000 crore of the<br />

textile industries debt. Besides, the Textile<br />

secretary Ms. Kiran Dhingra has recently<br />

hinted at the proposal of the Government<br />

to continue with the Technology<br />

Upgradation Fund (TUF) Scheme.<br />

Ms. Kiran has conveyed to the industry<br />

that the Textile Ministry has proposed<br />

extension of the TUFS in the 12th Five<br />

year plan with an allocation of ` 158.86<br />

billion. The restructured TUFS attaches<br />

22<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong>


gleanings from press<br />

greater importance to weaving, processing<br />

and value-added downstream segments of<br />

the textile producing industry.<br />

The debt restructuring proposals<br />

included a two-year moratorium on<br />

repayment of the principal and converting<br />

some working capital loans to term loans.<br />

The textile industry has a debt of ` 55,000<br />

crore and big losses. So far, 59 cases from<br />

the textile industry have been referred for<br />

corporate debt restructuring data and debt<br />

of ` 11,661 crore has been repackaged<br />

under the CDR norms.<br />

According to the Textile Ministry<br />

21 integrated textile parks have been<br />

proposed, in addition to 40 textile parks<br />

for which, the sums have already been<br />

earmarked. The 24 of these 40 textile parks<br />

are already operational, while another 12<br />

are nearing completion.<br />

It may be recalled that the textile<br />

industry has been going through one of the<br />

worst crisis in the last one year with high<br />

volatility hitting the cotton prices. Prices<br />

rose to a high of ` 62,000 a candy (356 kg)<br />

last year and now has declined to almost<br />

half this level at ` 33,000 a candy.<br />

In 2010-11, the cotton yarn export<br />

was put on a ceiling of 720 million kg,<br />

as a result of which many spinners were<br />

struggling with huge inventories. The yarn<br />

glut caused huge losses and most of the<br />

spinners are not operating at full capacity.<br />

Cash crunch due to dearth of orders<br />

and lack of sufficient working capital<br />

are threatening their very survival, say<br />

industry sources.<br />

US $ 18 bn apparel export<br />

target within reach<br />

India is expected to achieve US$ 18 billion<br />

(about ` 1,00,000 crore) apparel export<br />

target set by the government for fiscal<br />

year <strong>2012</strong> – 13, accordingly to Apparel<br />

Export Promotion Council (AEPC), the<br />

official body of apparel exporters in India.<br />

The country exported garment worth US$<br />

11.162 billion (about ` 62,600 crore) in<br />

2010 – 11, growing at a rate of 4.9 per<br />

cent year-on-year, against the target of<br />

US$ 12 billion (about ` 67,000 crore), as<br />

per the data with the Directorate General<br />

of Commercial Intelligence and Statistics<br />

(DGCIS). Last fiscal, compared to its set<br />

target of US$ 14 billion (about ` 78,500<br />

crore), India managed to export clothing<br />

items worth US$ 13.699 billion (about `<br />

76,850 crore) growing at a rate of 22.7 per<br />

cent year-on-year.<br />

According to AEPC, reasons like<br />

favourable dollar rate, incentive announced<br />

in the Annual Supplement to Foreign<br />

Trade Policy (FTP) 2009-10, number of<br />

incentives by way of Focused Product<br />

& Market Scheme (FMS) and exporters’<br />

efforts to explore new export territories<br />

like Japan, Australia, South Africa and<br />

countries in Latin America have been<br />

instrumental in pushing the segment<br />

towards meeting the targets. And it is<br />

optimistic about achieving export target<br />

of US $ 18 billion set by the government<br />

for the current fiscal year.<br />

ITMA 2015 to Drive<br />

Sustainable Innovations<br />

ITMA, the world’s most established<br />

textile and garment machinery<br />

exhibition, will put the spotlight on<br />

innovations that promote sustainability<br />

for its 17th presentation in Milan, Italy, in<br />

2015. A trendsetting showcase of exciting<br />

innovations since 1951, the theme chosen<br />

for the 2015 edition is ‘Master the Art of<br />

Sustainable Innovation’.<br />

Mr. Stephan R Combes, President<br />

of CEMATEX, which owns the show,<br />

said: “The drive towards sustainability is<br />

increasingly integrated with enlightened<br />

business practices. The keyword here is<br />

‘sustainability’, and we hope industry<br />

members will join us in this responsible<br />

mission to promote more eco-friendly<br />

solutions and practices for the entire<br />

textile and garment value chain.”<br />

ITMA 2015 will continue to be an<br />

industry leading platform for the textile<br />

and garment community. It is expected<br />

to span over 1,00,000 sqm of net exhibit<br />

space and attract over 1,400 exhibitors.<br />

Ludhiana textile hub to get<br />

CETP under TUFS<br />

U<br />

nion Minister for Commerce,<br />

Industries and Textiles, Shri Anand<br />

Sharma held meetings with Chief<br />

Minister of Punjab, Shri Prakash Singh<br />

Badal and Chief Minister of Haryana,<br />

Shri Bhupinder Singh Hooda to discuss<br />

the industrial projects in the states. Shri<br />

Sharma was accompanied by a high level<br />

delegation from the Ministry of Commerce<br />

& Industry.<br />

In the meeting with Punjab Chief<br />

Minister, Shri Sharma announced that<br />

Punjab would be connected to the Western<br />

Industrial Corridor (Delhi-Mumbai<br />

Industrial Corridor). The Minister<br />

announced that initially Ludhiana will be<br />

linked to Rewari to provide this connectivity<br />

and there was in principal agreement<br />

between the Central Government and the<br />

Punjab Government for extending this<br />

connectivity to Amritsar, for which the<br />

feasibility will have to be worked out.<br />

Feedback ?<br />

Send your suggestions/entries to<br />

rajendra.gode@clariant.com<br />

<strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited<br />

www.clariant.in<br />

Printed and Published by<br />

Prabhat Trivedi, on behalf of <strong>Clariant</strong> Chemicals (India) Limited<br />

Design by Point-n-Pixel<br />

Printed by Multiple Images<br />

Chief Editor:<br />

Editorial Co-ordinator:<br />

Consulting Editor:<br />

Editorial Board:<br />

Prabhat Trivedi<br />

Rajendra Gode<br />

Philips Abraham<br />

Tushar Choudhury<br />

U.S. Shashikeerthy<br />

Nirmal Punjabi<br />

colour chronicle 3 | <strong>2012</strong> 23


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