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Planes, Trains, and Motorcycles
After a fitful night’s sleep, I disembarked in Lorton, Virginia
(just outside Washington, DC), 900 miles and 17 hours since
departing Orlando, ready to rumble. After watching the world
glide by in slow motion from aboard the train, isolated from
the scents and sounds of the outdoors, it felt good to be back
on two wheels, the wind in my face and sun at my back.
From Lorton, my route to Waynesboro, Virginia – near the
southern terminus of Skyline Drive – brims with battlefields,
rich in Civil War history. Fredericksburg, Spotsylvania,
Chancellorsville, and Wilderness historic sites are all nearby.
Along the way, Virginia’s “Constitution Highway” – State
Route 20 – runs through the central wine region, and near
the homes or birthplaces of four U.S. presidents: Jefferson,
Madison, Monroe, and Taylor.
Early the next morning, I entered Shenandoah National Park,
soaking in the sunrise and spectacular views. A few miles down
I think I had pulled into darn near every one of the park’s
75 scenic overlooks.
The next morning, I set a course for the birthplace of the
King – and I’m not talking Graceland here. Harley-Davidson’s
York, Pennsylvania Vehicle Operations facility is the maternity
ward, so to speak, for all Softail,® Touring, CVO, and trike
models – where the legend is born and dreams come to life.
At the Vaughn L. Beals Tour Center, I parked up front in the
designated motorcycle area and checked in for the tour. I was
given a pin for my clothing with the slogan “Walk the Line,”
identifying me as a visitor. It’s an apt slogan; this is a working
factory, and you’re not kept behind Plexiglas windows on the
tour. You’ll be close enough to touch – although under strict
orders not to. The tour follows the process from fabrication
to final assembly and testing (subject to occasional
tour modification – go to www.h-d.com/tours for more
information). It’s a fascinating and informative
one-hour journey.
First up for our tour group: a short video
orientation of all things Harley-Davidson.
Afterwards, our knowledgeable tour guide Janice
Caruso – who is also a 9th grade science teacher
during the school year – passed out safety
glasses and amplified earpieces, along with strict
instructions to maintain single file, and, again,
no touching!
We marched past all manner of machinery: a
deep-draw hydraulic press that can stamp out a
fender every 29 seconds and another that trims
fuel tank halves robotically with a laser. We saw
a worker feed pieces of steel rod, ends glowing
molten orange, into a hot press to emerge as fork
legs. We eyed stacks of chrome handlebars, wheels,
and exhaust systems, and learned that H-D uses
all American-made steel in its machines. We
the road, a young black bear scampered on all fours from out of
the trees; hearing me, he turned and ran back into the woods.
I’m sure mama bear wasn’t far away. Animal encounters are
not unusual here; 50 different species of mammals inhabit the
park, as well as numerous species of birds, fish, and reptiles.
“Last year a wild turkey about run me over,” touring rider Jack
Auker told me at a scenic overlook. “It ran out into the road,
got scared, and started running ’round in circles!” Jack and his
wife, Pam – as well as the turkey – emerged from the encounter
unscathed. From Tallahassee, Florida, they’ve ridden Skyline
four times; this time aboard his 2009 Root Beer Brown Ultra
Classic with 103-inch Screamin’ Eagle® motor. “We like it so
much we keep coming back,” Jack emphasized.
Late afternoon, after a slow, relaxed day of riding the
park, it was time to move on. By the time I left Shenandoah,
52 HOG