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B<br />
ack in 1969, I began looking for a good four by<br />
four vehicle to use as a daily transport as well<br />
as hunting and fishing trips. My neighbor had a<br />
1963 LWB which he let me drive<br />
occasionally; I was quite taken by the Land Rover because of<br />
its uniqueness. I looked over the other vehicles available: the<br />
International Scout, the Ford Bronco, the Jeepster and the<br />
Chevy Blazer. <strong>The</strong>se North American vehicles were all priced a<br />
little higher than the Land Rover, got much poorer gas mileage<br />
and came with less equipment.<br />
<strong>The</strong> Chevy dealer asked, “Do you want a roof with that?”<br />
and then informed me that would be $700. I thought about<br />
driving a topless Blazer in the land of the great white north and<br />
then made tracks for my Land Rover dealer. Actually, the Land<br />
Rover was the vehicle I wanted from the start.<br />
On January 3, 1969, I purchased my new Series II-A from<br />
British United Automobiles in downtown Toronto, which also<br />
sold Jaguars. I have been driving my IIA daily since then. It cost<br />
$3000 complete with a tow hitch, AM radio and deluxe<br />
interior. At the time it was my only vehicle, so it saw services as<br />
daily transport and for hunting and fishing trips.<br />
Unfortunately, my image of the indestructible Land Rover<br />
was severely tarnished when in 1979 I discovered severe rust<br />
on the frame. <strong>The</strong> vehicle only had 48,000 miles and 9 years of<br />
service on it, so it was hard to understand why this much<br />
corrosion had taken place. I took the vehicle to a professional<br />
welder friend of mine and asked him to repair it. I was more<br />
than slightly disappointed when he said there was no frame left<br />
onto which to weld new steel! He went on to suggest we simply<br />
build a new frame. I could hardly believe my ears but<br />
eventually we built a completely new frame from scratch.<br />
<strong>The</strong> main frame rails were made with 10 gauge steel,<br />
approximately 1/8 inch thick and heavier than the original<br />
material. <strong>The</strong> rear cross member, front cross member and the<br />
large member at the front rear spring hangers were made from<br />
11 gauge steel. <strong>The</strong> crossmembers under the engine and<br />
transmission were welded up from heavy walled 2 inch square<br />
tubing. Spring hangers were cut from 3/16 inch plate. Shock<br />
absorber mounts were made from heavy walled steel tubing.<br />
Outriggers were of 14 gauge steel. I made cardboard patterns<br />
and drawings from the old frame and transferred the<br />
information to sheets of new steel. <strong>The</strong> pieces were cut out and<br />
welded together. <strong>The</strong> frame was totally closed in with only the<br />
necessary bolt holes drilled so that no mud and water could<br />
enter. To my mind Land Rover frames came from the factory<br />
with many unnecessary holes to collect dirt and water.<br />
After completion, the frame was sandblasted, painted with<br />
epoxy primer, two coats of Tremclad, and undercoated. This<br />
frame has been on the road, winter and summer, for<br />
26 years and has only required a welding repair to the left<br />
front outrigger.<br />
Would I build another frame from scratch? At the time<br />
I had no idea I could have obtained a new frame from England.<br />
It would depend on whether or not one was paying full price<br />
for welding services or if you could do it yourself and how<br />
much fun you would have doing it. A new galvanized frame<br />
would probably be the better way to go but not nearly as<br />
challenging!<br />
I also did a lot of rebuilding of other parts over the 3 years<br />
the truck was out of service. Everything (driveshafts, axles,<br />
45