FASHION

My first impression of this little
Mediterranean island was of many
ancient yellow buses hurtling through
the narrow streets at speed. These are
an odd collection, as most are Leyland
buses from varying periods – the earliest being from the
50s. However, every bus seemed unique and had its driver’s
personalities stamped all over it. The taxi driver who drove
us from the airport to the hotel told us that Arriva will be
taking over, and the rickety yellow buses will soon be gone,
which I thought was rather sad, as the colourful buses had
so much character.
This loss to Valletta will be akin to the loss of the
Routemaster buses in London and the buses are not the
only revamp the city will see. During my time in Valletta,
the famed gatehouse, which was built in the 1500s, was
undergoing major renovation. The works were so complex
that the city decided that the Valletta Grand Prix would
have to be postponed till later in the year.
Valletta, Malta’s capital, has seen many changes in its time.
It was founded by the Order of St. John back in the 16th
century and since its birth has been besieged by the Ottoman
Turks, the French and the British. Finally, in 1964, Malta
became an independent state and it was the British and the
Germans who changed the city the most. During World War
Two, it was the Germans who bombarded the city; there are
still parts that are yet to be rebuilt and the ruins stand there
as a testament to the horrors the people endured and for their
steadfast bravery, honoured in 1942 by King George VI, who
awarded the island the St. George’s Cross.
When the British came in 1800 and created a major naval
base, they set about building many Colonial structures, the
finest of which is the Phoenicia Hotel where I stayed. The
hotel has also recently been renovated but its old grandeur
still shines through. Back in its heyday, the hotel was the
centre of high society; naval officers, grandees, and even
Her Majesty The Queen herself have danced in the Art
Deco ballroom that looks out over the harbour. HM The
Queen actually lived in Malta when she was a princess,
after she married the Duke of York, who was stationed
there while he was a British naval officer. The hotel sits in
seven acres of pretty gardens, at the bottom of which is a
swimming pool with beautiful harbour views. In fact, you
will find that most places have a harbour view.
Valletta is a gem of a city and it can easily be explored
in a long weekend; the island is just three and a half hours
away from the UK and it’s warm even in winter. For such a
small place, the city boasts many cultural treasures, and the
star is St. John’s Co-Cathedral, which rivals the continent’s
most elaborate ecclesiastical buildings. The Co-Cathedral,
built by the Order of St. John, is an oppressively grand
i
Air Malta has daily flights from London Heathrow and
London Gatwick and up to five flights a week from
Manchester. Economy class fares start from £99* return (*£139
return from Heathrow including taxes and charges). For hotels,
car hire, flight booking and more, visit www.airmalta.com or
call 0906 103 0012. Stay at the Phoenicia Hotel from £80 per
person, based on accommodation in a Classic Plus room only.
To book call 0808 238 1710 or visit www.phoeniciamalta.com
travel
baroque structure and is famous for housing some of
Caravaggio’s finest works of art – the most notable being
The Beheading of St. John the Baptist. Other places worth
seeing are the National War Museum in St. Elmo, the
National Museum of Fine Arts and the Casa Rocca Piccola,
a 16th century nobleman’s house with a vast World War
Two shelter underneath. The family that owned the house
opened up the shelter beneath to the people of Valletta as a
refuge throughout the war. It was said that 200 people lived
there during the worst of the bombings.
Of course, the best way to explore any city is by foot and
it is only this way you’ll see the best that Valletta has to
offer. Take a walk around the perimeter of the city; it’s easy
enough to do this in an hour or two and you never know
what you’ll find around the corner. The views of the harbour
are beautiful – its azure waters make you want to jump right
in – and it’s as if you’ve found a secret corner of the Med.
Valletta may not have a Michelin-starred restaurant, but
its food is still tasty. Rabbit is a very traditional dish and
Italian food is also popular. The local Maltese wine is cheap
and good – if you can find it, have the farmhouse wine –
and the whites especially can be well worth ordering. One
of the best restaurants is the Venezia, an Italian restaurant
in an old captain’s palace, with views that face the grand
harbour and Valletta. If you are looking for something a
little different, the Phoenix Restaurant in the Phoenicia
is also excellent; its cuisine offers an avant-garde take on
traditional Maltese food.
When the need to get out of London arises, consider
Valletta. It may not be the most obvious choice for a weekend
away but its compactness makes it the perfect getaway. n
connoisseur
Colorful, traditional
fishing boats against
the backdrop of
Marsaxlokk village
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