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CENTER<br />

CRUSHTM<br />

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as it was being built and wrote it off as dull<br />

work of architecture, cheapened by the intense<br />

reflectivity of the glass. But suddenly, on<br />

completion, it has emerged as something rather<br />

different. It’s restrained, in a Japanese way, and<br />

not boring at all. Off the white marble lobby is a<br />

trio of elevator corridors, each lined with shiny<br />

brown African anigre wood, each culminating<br />

in a video installation—wind, trees, sky—<br />

accompanied by a Philip Glass composition.<br />

From the higher floors, the views south and<br />

west are astounding, and from the 57th-floor<br />

terrace, 1 WTC looks somewhat as its various<br />

architects imagined—slender and angular—<br />

rather than the clunky, value-engineered<br />

bunker you currently see at street level. And<br />

the effect of the façade mirroring the sky on a<br />

sunny day is positively cinematic.<br />

While I’ve come to admire 4 WTC, my<br />

misgivings about the memorial have only<br />

intensified since its completion. Maybe this<br />

is because the one piece of Libeskind’s plan<br />

that always resonated with me was his vision<br />

of the slurry wall as heroic object. Originally<br />

built to keep the Hudson River out of the Twin<br />

Towers’ excavation site, the wall was, after<br />

all, the last remaining artifact that conveyed<br />

any of the monumental nature of the old WTC.<br />

Although the towers fell, the slurry wall stood,<br />

and prevented the river from inundating Lower<br />

Manhattan. Libeskind’s winning proposal for<br />

the site was built around the wall’s symbolic<br />

beauty. His drawings showed a series of towers,<br />

stair-stepped in height and arranged around a<br />

greensward, sheltered by the top 30 feet of what<br />

could have become New York’s Wailing Wall.<br />

But, of course, a memorial in which you<br />

could see the slurry wall would have to be set<br />

below grade, and the site’s nearest residential<br />

neighbors, the good people of Battery Park City,<br />

rebelled against the idea: too sad, too much of<br />

an impediment to their ability to cut across the<br />

site on their way to work. (I can’t imagine that<br />

the site’s commercial interests warmed to a<br />

depressed memorial, either.) And so Libeskind’s<br />

most powerful concept evaporated, replaced by<br />

Michael Arad, AIA’s massive, square fountains.<br />

In theory, I like Arad’s idea of commemorating<br />

the two footprints, but there’s something<br />

about the execution, particularly the way the<br />

fountains are framed by heavy ribbons of<br />

bronze into which the names of those who died<br />

on Sept. 11 have been inscribed, that feels wrong<br />

to me. The memorial’s aesthetic reads like a<br />

rebuke of the deceptive lightness of Minoru<br />

Yamasaki’s vision.<br />

And it strikes me as almost immoral that,<br />

above ground at the memorial, there is nothing<br />

left of the old WTC except for a single tree, a<br />

callery pear pulled from the rubble, replanted,<br />

and named the Survivor Tree. Visitors, hungry<br />

for some connection to what was once there,<br />

crowd around the tree and take pictures.<br />

MANY VISITORS to the memorial, myself<br />

among them, used to press their noses to the<br />

glass of Snøhetta’s asymmetrical entry pavilion,<br />

completed years before the National September 11<br />

Memorial & Museum opened its doors in May,<br />

to see the remnant of the WTC visible within, a<br />

pair of the complex’s familiar steel tridents. So<br />

it was exciting to finally go inside and see the<br />

tridents accompanied with a large photo that<br />

showed them in context at the base of the Twin<br />

Towers.<br />

Much has been made of the museum’s<br />

gaffes–appalling products on sale at the gift<br />

shop (the cheese board!), a capsule history of<br />

Jihad that some Muslims found offensive—but<br />

in truth, the museum does what it’s supposed<br />

to do, diligently and surprisingly well, with<br />

a level of detail so conscientious that it’s<br />

overwhelming. What I realized as I made my<br />

way through the multimedia re-creation of<br />

Sept. 11 is that most events of great historic<br />

significance are far enough in the past that<br />

the amount of related ephemera has been<br />

winnowed by time. Not so Sept. 11. It seems<br />

like the museum has every sad missing poster,<br />

every victims’ artifact, and countless objects<br />

like dry cleaner hangers commemorating the<br />

first responders. There is simply too much.<br />

The onslaught, after a while, is numbing.<br />

Some aspects of the panoramic<br />

documentation of that day are genuinely<br />

stunning. There are alcoves where you can sit<br />

down and listen to first-person accounts from<br />

people who were in the towers, with schematic<br />

diagrams pinpointing their locations. The<br />

simple graphics and the fact that you actually<br />

have to stop and focus on one story at a time<br />

makes these displays unusually powerful.<br />

Aside from Snøhetta’s crystalline pavilion,<br />

the impact of which is undermined by the<br />

airport-style security maze you must negotiate<br />

to get inside, the museum has two defining<br />

architectural gestures. Davis Brody Bond<br />

(DBB), the firm that designed the underground<br />

portion of the building, created a series of<br />

ramps that lead you downward, 70 feet into<br />

the earth, to the spots where the old towers<br />

met bedrock. Access to bedrock is, in fact, one<br />

of the highlights of the museum. The bases of<br />

the buildings’ box beams and other elements<br />

of the foundations are treated as if they were<br />

archaeological finds, remnants of some lost<br />

civilization—which, arguably, they are.<br />

But DBB’s best architectural moment is<br />

what’s known as the Foundation Hall. It is<br />

a compelling open space, where Libeskind’s<br />

68-foot-tall slurry wall actually fulfils its<br />

symbolic destiny. At first, you see the wall,

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