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View 2013 Champagne Catalog - Michael Skurnik Wines

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Pierre Péters “Cuvée de Réserve” Brut, N.V. j KPP-1A<br />

Pierre Péters “Cuvée de Réserve” Brut, N.V., 12/375ml j KPP-1H<br />

Pierre Péters “Cuvée de Réserve” Brut, N.V., 6/1.5L j KPP-1M<br />

Pierre Péters “Cuvée de Réserve” Brut, N.V., 1/3.0L j KPP-1J<br />

First we tasted the 2008-based wine, which we had on the market two years ago. Bear in mind—Péters performs what they<br />

call a “perpetual solera,” which means the NV contains whichever vintage is current, plus the previous blend, and so each<br />

iteration contains a certain quantity of very old wine. Or you could say it is a mature solera that’s constantly refreshed.<br />

This `08-based wine is hyper-aromatic; it was the best in many years, and it’s the one I have in my cellar right now.<br />

Then we tasted the `09-based wine we shipped last year. It’s rounder and saltier, more brioche. Flowers in `08, butter in `09.<br />

Finally the 2010, disgorged in December 2012. It was gnarly from disgorgement, but with time it will resemble the `08;<br />

perhaps more overtly chalky, less hyacinth and wisteria but more jasmine. Surprisingly dense yet pixilated pulverized<br />

oyster shell. Time on the cork will really reward this wine.<br />

Pierre Péters Millésime Brut, 2008 j ( j ) KPP-208<br />

Disgorged December `12; it has the sweetest fragrance of any vintage since `02, really high-toned white hyacinth; the<br />

palate is sleek to the point of feeling stretched; it’s drier than the `06 was, more sinewy, with long oystery flavors; quite<br />

“straight” and scrupulous and logical. `06 is more flattering: `08 more incisive.<br />

We previewed the 2009 also. Back to overt charm. Rodolph says quince and pink grapefruit, plus “a touch of sunlight.”<br />

Superbly elegant and intricate for the vintage. Likely ++ quality.<br />

Pierre Péters<br />

Côte des Blancs<br />

Pierre Péters Cuvée Spéciale “Les Chétillons” Brut, 2006 j j KPP-306<br />

Pierre Péters Cuvée Spéciale “Les Chétillons” Brut, 2006, 3/1.5L j j KPP-306M<br />

Disgorged November 2012. An imposing fragrance leads to a foamy, fleshy palate; there’s nothing inscrutable here, this<br />

is an obvious masterpiece, less earthy and recherché than `05; tertiary blasts of chalk and mint; it’s finer-grained than<br />

the meaty `05, with less espresso-savor than `02 or `00. Ending notes of chartreuse.<br />

Pierre Péters Rosé “For Albanne” Brut, N.V.<br />

KPP-4<br />

Based on 2010 with 20% of the previous blend. This disgorgement has 8g/l RS, which he’s contemplating reducing with<br />

later disgorgements. I would decide otherwise, as the balance here seems perfect; it’s all ultra-ripe tomatoes and rhubarb<br />

jelly, rich and vinous, a rosé in the solid vein, that defied categorization and is virtually unique in the Côte des Blancs. In<br />

other words: Peters!<br />

The Chardonnay (from a climat called Musette) is blended with macerated Pinot Meunier, the specific details of which<br />

are guarded coquettishly. And though I’d like to know, I don’t need to know, because the wine is convincing.<br />

Pierre Péters “Reserve Oubliée” Brut, N.V.<br />

KPP-310<br />

This is all a bit of a mystery, and I suppose it’ll be in terribly short supply, but—the intent was to offer an NV that was<br />

“mature but not oxidative,” and what I tasted was the “perpetual reserve” based on 2007, kept in tank an additional year,<br />

bottled in 2009 and aged on the cork. Most intriguingly, the dosage is a must-concentrate they made in-house, the first<br />

time I have heard of this; furthermore, it was aged in a 60-liter barrel of old wood from Cognac, making it the only Péters<br />

wine with any wood flavor. And the wine was explosive, wonderfully expressive and not “mature” but indeed tertiary; all<br />

the things you desire from <strong>Champagne</strong> but have had to age yourself.<br />

What will be shipped to us—assuming we get any—is 2008-based and ought to be even better.<br />

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