View 2013 Champagne Catalog - Michael Skurnik Wines
View 2013 Champagne Catalog - Michael Skurnik Wines
View 2013 Champagne Catalog - Michael Skurnik Wines
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Pehu-Simonnet Blanc de Blancs Brut, N.V.<br />
KPS-2<br />
Disgorged Nov. 2012; still all Mesnil, from parcels on the hill, and in fact it’s the only pure Mesnil we have at the nonvintage<br />
level. It’s all `09 now, really firm yet lithe, mineral yet creamy; it has the vintage sternness but also a real terroir<br />
spine; there’s a certain bite that isn’t sharp. If 2009s go the way I think they will, this could be wonderful.<br />
Pehu-Simonnet “Selection” Brut, N.V. j KPS-1<br />
By its very nature this is remarkable <strong>Champagne</strong>; as glowy and sumptuous as one could ask from a “luxury” item, yet as<br />
specific and distinctive as one could desire from farmer-fizz.<br />
It’s 70% 2010 and 30% a “perpetual reserve” (as Péters does them) dating back to 2006. 60% PN (Verzenay-Verzy-Sillery)<br />
and 40% CH (Verzenay alone), disgorged Aug 2012; it’s really creamy and fruit-forward, surprisingly more so than last<br />
year’s, and it’s entirely delicious and approachable—a “boy is this tasty” sort of wine; lots of terroir focus and breed yet<br />
doughy and sanguine. If you must have specific associations, think cardamom and salsify.<br />
Pehu-Simonnet “Transparence” Extra-Brut, N.V.<br />
KPS-5<br />
All 2007, all Verzenay, 80-20 PN-CH, disgorged Nov. 2012, and very dry. It remains a strong terroir statement in a<br />
sternly dry yet perfectly balanced form; it’s masculine and capable—it could fix your car—but it’s a little stoic and broody,<br />
buckwheat-y and morel-like.<br />
Pehu-Simonnet Blanc de Noirs Brut, N.V. j KPS-6<br />
This will always come from two climats in Verzenay, Pertois and Noues; this year it’s all 2009, disgorged Dec. 2012; the<br />
aromas are dramatic, with some of the mead-like apple-cellar notes we know from Lallement, but Pehu’s wines have more<br />
muscle and broader shoulders. It’s long and crackery and salty. It should be in every swag-bag they hand out at IPNC.<br />
(NOTE: there’s a vintage 2006 in the wings for later this year; he’s doing dosage trials now.)<br />
Pehu-Simonet<br />
Pehu-Simonnet Rosé Brut, N.V.<br />
KPS-3<br />
Based on 2010, with 25% of the “solera” started in 2006 and 8% still PN also from `10. Disgorged Oct. `12. Deep-fruited<br />
aromas, thick vinosity but also mussel shell and white mushrooms; a silky texture and the “shadiness” of `10. 2009 is<br />
blazing almost oppressive sunlight, but `10 is cool fresh shade. This is not a “lady’s” rosé unless the lady is a NASCAR<br />
driver. I got hungry for duck-breast with “forbidden” black rice, morels and sunchokes.<br />
Montagne de Reims<br />
33