View 2013 Champagne Catalog - Michael Skurnik Wines

single larger one at one point, and there was indeed a flaw
in the large tank.
Of course what’s curious about all this is, the socalled
“flaw” in Cuvée Laetitia was actually enjoyed by
many drinkers and also by knowledgeable reviewers, who
saw its pear-droppy notes as exotic. And why not? But I
still own old bottles of Laetitia, and she after whom it is
named concurred when I said it was a classic of grower-
Champagne, that had become perhaps strange of late.
The estate is also between Millésimes, so the
offering will be clipped – but what remains are the most
encouraging bottles of Billiot for several years, and I can’t
wait to taste them again, and repeatedly.
Ambonnay is Pinot land; 350 hectares and only 20
of them Chardonnay. Ambonnay Pinot Noir seems to be the
sweetest, most Volnay-like in the Montagne de Reims.
(Bouzy, in contrast, is darker but more earthy, while Aÿ
is firmer with less overt berried fruit). The Ambonnay
signature might be strawberry, forest-floor, sweet-100s. All
of which are certainly present in Billiot’s wines.
Henri Billiot Brut Réserve, N.V. ( j ) KBA-1
Henri Billiot Brut Réserve, N.V., 6/1.5L ( j ) KBA-1M
They want to change this, and so we did dosage trails. But I had to say I liked the wines as they were; the (potentially)
drier versions were coarse.
The wine is 50% 2010 and 50% `09-`08, disgorged January 2013, and rather shook up. It’s potentially excellent and pure
Billiot, with all their stand-at-attention Ambonnay fruit and the solid, al dente finish. I let a glass stand for 20 minutes
and it really started to sing.
Henri Billiot Rosé Brut, N.V. j ( j ) KBA-4
It’s the same base as the NV, assemblage with still PN; disgorged in Jan. `13. We tried two blends, one with 4g/l and the
other with… more. They weren’t very different; like siblings who look alike but one of them is nicer. This PN from 2010
is really refined, compact, berried, with the indigo fruit that vintage also shows in Burgundy. Back in grand form, albeit
not the exact same form; rather the form of the new generation, that plays in a darker register.
Henri Billiot “Cuvée Julie” Brut, N.V.
KBA-6
Now 2006 – I wasn’t convinced last year, thinking it was too woody, but longer en tirage (disgorged Dec. `12), and with
tamped-down RS - which lets the oak show through more. They themselves feel this cuvée has gotten too oaky, and plan
to throttle back on it. But this is powerful, salty, quite stern, and—oaky. I don’t find it blatant, but tastes differ. Let’s call
it strong, and not entirely in command of its own strength.
Henri Billiot
Montagne de Reims
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