View 2013 Champagne Catalog - Michael Skurnik Wines

Marc Hébrart “Cuvée de Réserve” Brut, N.V. ( j ) KMH-1
Marc Hébrart “Cuvée de Réserve” Brut, N.V., 12/375ml ( j ) KMH-1H
Disgorged Oct. `12, and now 60% 2010 to 40% `09-`08. It’s 82% PN (from Mareuil, Aÿ, Avenay Val d’Or and Bisseuil)
and 18% CH (from Mareuil). One of the most improbable PN-based NVs in all of Champagne, it has euphoric varietal
fruit but is cirrus-clear, with the texture of cool steel. This one’s a teeny bit slimmer than last year—that’s 2010—but
round `n red yet as pointed as an acupuncture needle. The equipoise between chalk-dust and sweet fruit is striking.
Marc Hébrart “Sélection” Brut, N.V. j j KMH-2
This ostensibly “superior” NV isn’t exactly better; it’s different. Higher-toned, more of what we normally think of as
Champagne flavors (brioche, saffron, lobster). If I had to pick just one single wine from this whole happy mess to reassure
a timid drinker that the Champagnes don’t taste “weird,” it would be this one. But unlike nearly every mainstream
Champagne, this is focused and precise and vinous.
This is the best bottling I can recall. Disgorged Oct. `12, it’s 80% 2008 and 20% `07-`06. 65% old-vines PN from
Mareuil and 35% CH from Oiry & Chouilly.
It’s superb, a paradigm of Champagne at its most elegant and seductive. Long, lacy finish of talc, chalk power, jasmine and
cox-orange. And it is ONE OF THE VERY BEST VALUES IN THIS PORTFOLIO!!!
Marc Hébrart
Marc Hébrart “Prestige” Brut, 2007 ( j ) KMH-407
It’s now had the time I felt it needed when I tasted and bypassed it a year ago. This was in fact the Special Club blend, and
was approved as such, but the quantity was too small to bottle as Club.
Disgorged Nov. `12, it’s 60% PN from Mareuil and Aÿ, and 40% CH from Oiry and Chouilly. The aromas are expressive,
and only a nip of steel indicates the cool vintage. Lacy, intricate sun-on-snow poise of warmth and brilliance, and just
ludicrous length.
Vallée de la Marne
Marc Hébrart “Special Club” Brut 2008, 6/750ml j j j KMH-308
The single best young wine I tasted in Champagne this year, and as good as it gets.
Disgorged November 2012, the blend is the same as the above `07-vintage, but this is of another order, and shows 2008
at its most sublime. Lunar, mystic aromas, it’s why the vintage is so exquisite and potentially great. And no mistake—
this is great wine that has everything, plus the dancing animation of all its hundred elements; Champagne at its most
bewitching, all leading to a truly astonishing and endless finish that defines complexity and beauty.
Marc Hébrart “Rive-Gauche-Rive-Droit” Grand Cru Extra Brut, 2006 j KMH-706
The wine is vinified in 3rd-use barriques. It’s 50% Aÿ PN (from Pruche, Chauzelles and Longchamp) and 50% old-vines
CH from Oiry (Justice) and Chouilly (Montaigu). Disgorged 5 Nov. ‘11. Unfiltered, no cold-stabilization, ambient yeasts.
Wary as I am of oaky wines, I loved how the ‘04 developed and it’s clear I was too cautious, and underrated it. This
‘06 starts with elusive fragrance, but not overtly oaky; the palate though is more explosive, rich and generous in an
extravagantly manly sort of way; salty and stocky and brown-buttery with even some carob. Air awakens the aromas, and
the wine has depth and sex-appeal.
Disgorged September 2012.
Marc Hébrart Rosé Brut, N.V.
KMH-5
Disgorged November 2012, and 50% 2010 CH from Mareuil, 41% 2010-2009 PN from Mareuil, and 9% still red 2009
from Mareuil. Normally one of my favorite Rosés, this one was stingingly young and rather muted, aloof, yet something
in it was curiously long. One to watch.
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