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2009 AAANZ Conference Abstracts - The Art Association of Australia ...

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7. COOLNESS:<br />

THE BODY, DRESS AND LOCATION<br />

We recognize coolness when we see it: from Beau Brummell to fighter pilots and the Edie Sedgewick, (Warhol’s muse) to the femme fatal, but<br />

not all <strong>of</strong> us are able to perform this dress practice. While dress is the vehicle for coolness, it is the carefully cultivated behaviour, filtering emotions<br />

that give us the look, the pose, the non-chalance and the detachment. Coolness is in: something that is hard to put a finger on, yet it is intrinsically<br />

judgemental and exclusive. Foucault, Bourdieu and Mauss all examined the way in which culture is embedded in the body. This session will focus on<br />

coolness through the nexus <strong>of</strong> dress, the body and location.<br />

Convenor:<br />

1. <strong>The</strong> Re-invention <strong>of</strong> Coolness in Political Dress Codes:<br />

From Female Pit Bulls to Lipstick Icons<br />

Pr<strong>of</strong>essor Jennifer Craik<br />

Dr Sharon Peoples<br />

(<strong>The</strong> <strong>Australia</strong>n National University)<br />

Can female politicians be ‘cool’ This paper addresses a vexed<br />

topic in the study <strong>of</strong> dress and place, namely, the dynamics <strong>of</strong> dress<br />

codes for female politicians and so-called ‘first ladies’. Prominent<br />

female political figures in history are represented as much by<br />

what they were thought to have worn as for their politics. Marie<br />

Antoinette lost her head for her obsession with fashion and frippery.<br />

Joan <strong>of</strong> Arc is depicted sometimes as a maid and sometimes in<br />

armour. Boadicea is depicted in flowing pleated robes. Margaret<br />

Thatcher’s dress sense earned her the soubriquet, <strong>The</strong> Iron Lady.<br />

Sarah Palin was arguably vilified more for her dress sense (and<br />

public re-invention) than for her politics or candidatureContemporary<br />

women in politics have veered between dressing like quasi men (in<br />

the box suit <strong>of</strong> business jacket and modest skirt) and toned down<br />

fashionability (smart but ladylike) but whatever the choice <strong>of</strong> garb,<br />

the risk <strong>of</strong> ridicule or condemnation. Careers have been made and<br />

broken by swings in public opinion and the relentless interrogation<br />

<strong>of</strong> a woman’s dress sense. Above all, it has been hard to be ‘cool’<br />

for women in the glare <strong>of</strong> the political spotlight.<br />

But, has that changed Has the proliferation <strong>of</strong> high pr<strong>of</strong>ile women in<br />

politics in recent times created a new dress code <strong>of</strong> which coolness<br />

is definitely a part<br />

This paper explores examples <strong>of</strong> the new generation <strong>of</strong> women in<br />

politics and isolates the elements and rules <strong>of</strong> the emerging dress<br />

code. Examples include Condoleezza Rice, Hilary Clinton, Michelle<br />

Obama, Carla Sarkozy, Sarah Palin, Julia Gillard, Julie Bishop and<br />

Anna Bligh. A blog in 2008 identified 10 <strong>of</strong> the world’s ‘sexiest<br />

female politicians’ as follows: Mara Rosaria Carfagna ((Italy), Alina<br />

Kabaeva (Russia), Yulia Tymoshenko (Ukraine), Sarah Palin (USA),<br />

Ruby Dhalla (Canada), Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner (Argentina),<br />

Julia Gillard (<strong>Australia</strong>), Belinda Stronach (Canada), Hilary Clinton<br />

(USA), and Sitrida Geagea (Lebanon) (www.spike.com/blog/top-10-<br />

sexiest/68661). A <strong>2009</strong> poll to find the world’s most beautiful female<br />

politician ranked 54 women with Mercedes Aráoz (Peru) first (www.<br />

dailymail.co.uk/.../<strong>The</strong>-worlds-beautiful-female-politicians-revealedsurprise-surprise-theres-British-woman-them.html).<br />

Unreliable those<br />

these polls may be, they attest to a seismic shift in the way in which<br />

women in politics are being represented and responded to.<br />

How has this new code been articulated and imposed (with<br />

considerable success) on the salivating public Is cool now the mark<br />

<strong>of</strong> the woman in politics in the new millennium <strong>The</strong>se and others<br />

questions will be explored in this paper.<br />

Jennifer Craik is Pr<strong>of</strong>essor <strong>of</strong> Communication and Cultural Studies<br />

in the Faculty <strong>of</strong> <strong>Art</strong>s and Design at the University <strong>of</strong> Canberra,<br />

<strong>Australia</strong> and Adjunct Pr<strong>of</strong>essor <strong>of</strong> Fashion and Textiles at RMIT<br />

University, Melbourne, <strong>Australia</strong>. Her research interests are primarily<br />

in the culture <strong>of</strong> fashion and dress, and arts and cultural policy.<br />

She has published in areas <strong>of</strong> tourism, media policy, cultural policy<br />

and fashion theory. Her books include <strong>The</strong> Face <strong>of</strong> Fashion (1994),<br />

Uniforms Exposed (2005) and Re-Visioning <strong>Art</strong>s and Cultural Policy<br />

(2007). Fashion: <strong>The</strong> Key Concepts (in press, <strong>2009</strong>).<br />

2. Imagined Cold, Embodied Warmth: <strong>The</strong> Paradox <strong>of</strong> Fur<br />

Stella North<br />

<strong>The</strong> cool is not so very far from the cruel: she is cool who takes care<br />

to not seem to care too much, and such alienation from care can<br />

catalyse acts perceived, or fetishised, as cruel. Further, cool requires<br />

the marking out <strong>of</strong> a certain distance, combined with a disdain for<br />

approval that borders on the anti-social; an attitude somewhere<br />

between recklessness and hauteur.<br />

<strong>The</strong>se values <strong>of</strong> cool – the reckless, the haughty, the cruel – converge<br />

at fur. Fur literally embodies cool’s paradoxes – the delicate balance<br />

between contrivance and abandon, the intertwining <strong>of</strong> immanence<br />

and transcendence, are layered on the fur-dressed body.<br />

Fur also takes literally cool’s embedded metaphor <strong>of</strong> temperature.<br />

<strong>The</strong> original sense <strong>of</strong> cool, which is to say lacking warmth, refers<br />

to something felt by the body; thus it is perfectly logical that ‘cool’,<br />

in its metaphorical sense, would be assumed and marked trough<br />

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