Passages Sustainable Food and Farming Systems - PASA

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The Story of Jeff Biddle continued from page 18 ized milk will not sour, but it spoils because undesirable bacteria in the milk continue to grow during the refrigeration process. Pasteurization does not kill all bacteria, molds and fungus. But in raw milk, the probiotic bacteria multiply retarding spoilage, and give the milk a smooth, rich taste with a tangy, refreshing flavor, which means that the probiotic bacteria are of high quality and intact. Jeff said that off-flavors in the milk are caused by the “wrong kind of bacteria present where it shouldn’t be.” Important factors in preserving the taste of the milk are proper chilling of the milk and holding at a specific temperature. The second reason people give for drinking raw milk is for the health benefits. In the early 1900s, the ‘raw milk cure’ was successfully used at the Mayo Clinic for a host of diseases. Up until World War II, many studies compared the use of raw vs. pasteurized milk in animals and children, and most results favored the use of raw milk. After the mandatory pasteurization act came in, these studies ceased. Raw milk contains many nutritional and immune enhancing properties. Pasteurization affects the nutritional quality of the vitamins C, B12, B6, A and D in the milk by reducing, inactivating, degrading or destroying the vitamin or its carrier proteins. In fact, artificial forms of A and D are added to pasteurized milk. Heat also denatures the protein in the milk, inactivates minerals, destroys the healthful probiotics and the lactoferrin, which is necessary for absorption of iron. Lack of iron causes anemia in children, a serious condition which affects growth. Lactoferrin also kills a wide range of pathogens. Local athletes are also interested in Jeff’s milk because of it health benefits. Tim Argiriadi, General Manager of Victory Sports and Fitness in State College, recommends raw milk to his clients. At Victory Sports, he says they see a variety of athletes from professional to high school. Tim explains, “Nutritional protein is pivotal in the body’s ability to perform, and a great source of protein is raw milk. The pasteurization and homogenization process denatures the protein and it loses its constituent nutritional quality making the protein no longer as effective or bioavailable.” He says that he has been drinking raw milk for about three years, since one of his trainees brought some in to the gym. He is lactose intolerant, but tried raw milk and now views it as “a good staple in a nutritional regimen,” it “brings a lot of value, and packs a nutritional punch.” Tim is especially interested in the CLA (conjugated linoleic acid) content of the milk. CLA is important for athletes and plays an important role in protein synthesis and muscle repair. We know that milk which is produced from cows on pasture is much higher in CLA than milk produced from grain and corn fed cows. Research from Europe shows that CLA and Omega 3 fatty acids are high in raw milk from cows on pasture and alpine grasses. Tim says Jeff Biddle knows a lot about raw milk and educated him about it. The government requires frequent testing of raw milk to ensure that it is safe for human consumption, which means that it does not contain organisms, which are harmful to health. Milk safety is an ultimate goal in raw milk production. In connection with milk safety, Penn State researchers are conducting a USDA (U.S. Department of Agriculture) funded study of permitted raw milk dairies in PA. Veterinarian Ernest Hovingh, PhD, http://vbs.psu.edu/directory/eph1, from the Veterinary and Biosciences Department in the College of Ag Sciences, is heading the raw milk part of the study. About 40 of the approximately 90 Pennsylvania raw milk dairies with permits, including Bear Meadows Farm, were recruited to participate in the study, which is part of a larger project entitled “Milk Safety Improvements for Milking Equipment and Raw Milk Production.” Researchers take samples of raw milk from the participating dairies over a set time period for analysis. Dr. Hovingh explained that, “We are looking at the efficiency and effectiveness of bulk milk cooling, and monitoring the milk fat, milk protein, somatic cell count, standard plate count, preliminary incubation count, lab pasteurization count, Salmonella, Campylobacter, Listeria, and E. coli. Although not directly related to the objectives of the project, we are also providing participants with a ‘bulk milk mastitis pathogen analysis’ every month. This consists of culturing for, and reporting on, common mastitis pathogens such as Strep agalactiae, coagulase-negative staphylococci, and others.” He said that he is also planning a twopart confidential survey of Pennsylvania consumers. Questionnaires will be distributed by mail to purchasers of raw milk from participant dairies, and to a random selection of PA consumers, without regard for what milk they drink, if any. Results from the study will be available at the end of 2012. More About the Farm Jeff is a very distinguished looking man who could be a doctor, lawyer or Indian chief, but he chose to be a farmer. Although he grew up on his parents’ farm, he didn’t come to this profession early on. He chose to become a master carpenter with a state of the art workshop and lucrative business in the local community. I met Jeff when I was looking for a mantel for my fireplace. During the course of the creation of the mantel I got to know him a bit. At our last meeting, when he was affixing the mantel to the wall of my fireplace, he told me he that he just wanted to be a farmer and hang out with cows. He seemed very serious about his new vision. I didn’t see him for about 6 years after that, and thought he was still hammering away until I visited the Bear Meadows Farm recently. When I first turned into the long driveway framed by fields, and made my way down the farm road, it was like a step back in time. The spring house was on the left, then the farm house set on top 20
the hill with crisscross curtains gently blowing on the lines below it. I had to creep along so that I wouldn’t take out a couple of Jeff’s prime layers, some plump Rhode Island Reds ambling along. But they picked up to a strut when the wheels of my car came too near and veered off sharply out of the way. The duck and her ducklings made for the pond on the right and nipped into the water. Then slowly I continued down to the barn, paddock and milking parlor. In the paddock a number of young cows stared curiously at me but shortly went back to their business of wagging their tails to knock off the flies. The farm dogs, Susie and Beauty, gave me a barking escort, all the way to the milking parlor Inside the milking parlor, Jeff maintains a consumer bulletin board, which educates his customers about the types of bacteria in milk and the testing procedures required by various state and federal agencies. He pointed out his laboratory test papers, which were displayed with explanations. The scores were good, in fact, exceptional — some of the best scores in the state it seems. In Pennsylvania there is a set testingprogram for farmers who sell raw milk, and now he has his milk tested every two weeks. Jeff advised me to always ask to see the lab work when I buy raw milk. Every six months the state also performs ring tests for brucellosis, and the Federal inspector may inspect annually, including sampling about 40 of the his co-op members’ farms at random. A score of 88 on the Federal inspection and above is acceptable. Jeff has scored 100 on many occasions. The barn and sheds were immaculate white, clean, with just a scent of ‘eau de cow.’ As he filled my containers from the bulk tank Jeff told a little about how he came back to the farm. When Jeff and his parents made an agreement that he could farm the land and raise cows, he started out using conventional methods. But then came the milk glut and Jeff and many other farmers were in serious trouble. He admits that he was very hesitant to start with raw milk, maybe fearful even, but after three months, there was no turning back. When he decided to produce raw milk, one of his first tasks was to rehabilitate the pastures, which were damaged from conventional farming. He has about 177 acres, 44 of those in pasture. He had seen farms where the damaged pastures could not be rehabilitated in a lifetime they were in such poor shape from years of pesticide use. He used cow manure, chicken manure and planted Italian ryegrass, three different kinds of orchard grass, two kinds of clover and four kinds of chicory to start the process. In fact his “salad bar” pasture today is home to about 28 milking cows, and alive with many different plants. In periods of dry weather he has a pasture planted with sorghum and Sudan grass, which is extremely high in energy and grows fairly well during those times. But sometimes, he says, his cows just prefer dandelion or leaves from his chestnut trees. Jeff observes his cows, and he says, “unlike humans, they know what they should eat.” He told me that they are selective and sample many plants. One day Elsie May will eat clover while on the next day she prefers orchard grass. There are trees bordering on the pastures and sometimes a cow will wander over and munch on some of the leaves, getting some tasty minerals. When he first started the cows on pasture, he supplemented them with a bale of hay every day. But gradually he noticed that they weren’t finishing the hay, and preferred the pasture. Now they eat only grass during most of the year, from mid-April through mid-December. His cows love the snow, he says. Last year, they were on pasture most of the year. He pastures them in the winter in the field where he will grow corn the next spring. Daily he supplements with a round bale of hay and what they don’t eat, they stomp into the ground and what they do eat comes out as manure to fertilize the field. Jeff milks his cows twice a day. But, he says, cows like to be milked 2.4 times a day, according to dairy studies. He averages 160 gallons a month, and sells about 40 gallons of raw milk weekly for $3.00 a half gallon. The remainder of the milk is sold through a local co-op. Raw milk is about 13% of his milk sales, which provides about 1 ⁄ 3 of the farm income. Selling raw milk is a “no brainer,” he says, considering the price of his feed (pasture), health of his cows, acceptable price paid for the milk, and the satisfaction he and his family get from producing an excellent product. It was clear that Jeff was in awe, pleased with the complexity yet simplicity, of the master plan. It was plain to see that his cows were healthy and so was the milk, according to the lab reports he gets every month. He told me that he works very hard to produce great milk — but his customers are pleased- they bring him gifts that they make with his milk to show their appreciation. One customer uses lactose from the milk to make beer. He says that his customers are great. He does not advertise but “word gets around” and gradually the customers come. One family buys 11 half gallons a week. I suspect, many of them also come to have a good chat. Jeff is a good listener. To show his appreciation, Jeff hosts a “customer appreciation day” in September with live music, down-home food, great company (including the farm dogs, cats, and guinea hens) and raw milk which kicks off with a farm tour. Jeff is just happy with the way things are going, and plans never to go back to conventional dairy farming. He says that grass farming and producing raw milk is “just fantastic.” He has succeeded in hanging out with cows. New customers get the first half gallon free, so come on out! Additional Resources on Raw Milk ● Farm to Consumer Legal Defense Fund, ftcldf.org (Raw Milk Food Safety Resources and much more) ● Real Milk, realmilk.com/real-milkpathogens.html (Those Pathogens You Should Know, speech given by Ted Beals, MD, at the Third International Raw Milk Symposium 2011. ● Weston A. Price Foundation, westonaprice.org ● Third International Raw Milk Symposium, farmtoconsumerfoundation.org/rawmilksymposium Blogs: ● The Bovine: Freedom of Choice for Raw Milk Drinkers http://thebovine.wordpress.com ● Hartke is Online: http://hartkeisonline.com 21
Page 1 and 2: Passages Sustainable Food and Farmi
Page 3 and 4: Conference Review We Salute Our Con
Page 5 and 6: Conference Review PASA’s Annual L
Page 7 and 8: PASA Board Perspective It Will Be L
Page 9 and 10: Former board member John Hopkins sp
Page 11 and 12: PASA board member and conference sp
Page 13 and 14: Buy Fresh Buy Local Update What is
Page 15 and 16: Fundraising continued from previous
Page 17 and 18: Membership Update PASA’s Annual M
Page 19: A PASA member since 2005, Jeff Bidd
Page 23 and 24: PASA Board Perspective continued fr
Page 25 and 26: and GMOs makes us idealists at best
Page 27 and 28: Education Opportunities WESTERN REG
Page 29 and 30: Regional Marketing EASTERN REGION
Page 31 and 32: Table 3. Land, labor and energy eff
Page 33 and 34: Classified Ads Due to space we are
Page 35 and 36: Membership & Contribution Form Plea

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