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the
knitter’s
handy
book
of
Top-Down
Sweaters
basic designs
in multiple sizes
and gauges
Ann Budd

circular
yoke
Feather and
Fan Flare
set-in
sleeve
Alpine
Tweed
saddle
shoulder
Zigs & Zags
set-in
sleeve
Golden Ribs
and Welts

H ow to
Use this Book
Instructions
for each sweater
style are divided into “child” sizes of
26"–34" (66–86.5 cm) chest circumference,
“women’s” sizes of 36"–44" (91.5–112 cm)
bust circumference, and “men’s” sizes of
46"–54" (117–137 cm) chest circumference.
The overall sweater measurements are listed
in the box on the first page of the project.
Of course, depending on the amount of ease
you want in the finished sweater, it’s quite
possible to follow a child’s or a man’s size
for a woman’s sweater. Each sweater style
contains two full sets of instructions—the
five child sizes followed by the ten adult (five
women and five men) sizes. Keep in mind
that the men’s sizes have slightly deeper
armholes than women’s sweaters of similar
circumferences would normally have.
The instructions are broken down line by
line, with each line followed by a chart, or
grid, with the possible sizes (based on finished
chest/bust circumference) in columns
and the possible gauges (in stitches per inch)
in rows. For each line of instructions, simply
find your gauge along the left margin of the
chart and follow that row across to the column
that matches your size.
For example, let’s say you want to make a
circular yoke sweater with a finished chest
measurement of 42" (106.5 cm) at a gauge of
5 stitches to the inch. According to the adult
circular yoke sweater chart on page 12, you’d
follow the third row of numbers (for a gauge
of 5 stitches to the inch) and the fourth
column of numbers (for a finished size of
42" [106.5 cm]). For this example, you’d cast
on 80 stitches for the neck. You may find it
helpful to circle or highlight the numbers
that apply to your size and gauge (on a
photocopy of the pages if you don’t want to
write in the book) before you begin. When
there is just one row of numbers, it applies
to all gauges.
All the instructions in this book were
devised by calculating how many stitches
would be needed to achieve a knitted piece
of specific dimensions, represented by
schematics. Refer to the schematics that
accompany each sweater style to check
your progress and assure that your piece is
working out to the measurements specified.
If you’re unsure about which size is best for
you, take a look at the accompanying schematic—it
is a graphic representation of the
finished garment.
3

Raglan Sweaters
Sweaters
with raglan shaping
are distinctive in the “seams” between the
front(s), back, and sleeves that form diagonal
lines that run from the neck edge to the base
of the armholes. Beginning at the neck, the
number of stitches on the front(s), back, and
sleeves increase at regular intervals along
these lines to give each section a triangular
shape. The raglan lines can be decorative or
inconspicuous, depending on the type and
sequence of increases used. Raglan sweaters
fit well at the shoulders and lend themselves
well to a close fit or waist shaping (see waist
shapings on page 21), such as worked in
Weekday Raglan (page 26). The raglan lines
provide a nice structure for textural design
elements, such as the openwork patterns in
A Twisted Little Raglan (page 32) and India
Print Henley (page 38).
The raglan sweaters in this book begin with
stitches cast on for about three-quarters of
the neck circumference. The neck is worked
back and forth in rows while additional
stitches are cast on at the end of each row
to shape the front neck at the same time
as increases are worked along each of the
four raglan lines to shape the shoulders. At
the base of the front neck, the stitches are
joined and the piece continues in the round
to the base of the armholes for a pullover;
the work continues back and forth in rows
for a cardigan. At the underarms, stitches
for the sleeves are placed on holders and
the front(s) and back are joined with a few
stitches cast on to span the gaps, then the
body is worked in one piece to the hem. The
sleeves are then worked in the round to the
cuffs and tapered with decreases along the
way. Finally, stitches for the neckband/collar
are picked up around the neck opening and
worked as desired.
Finished Size: Finished bust/chest
circumference is listed horizontally across the
top of each page.
Needles: Circular (cir) needles in 16" (40 cm)
and 24" or 32" (60 or 80 cm) lengths and a set
of 4 or 5 double-pointed needles (dpn) in the
size necessary to obtain the desired gauge
(and needles one or two sizes smaller for
edgings, if desired).
Notions: Stitch markers (m); waste yarn or
stitch holders; tapestry needle; buttons for
cardigan versions: typically 5 to 7 for child
sizes or 7 to 9 for adult sizes.
Gauge: Gauge, in 3, 4, 5, 6, or 7 stitches/inch
(2.5 cm), runs vertically along the left side of
each group of numbers.
raglan sweaters
5

Adult Sizes
finished bust/chest circumference
36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54"
91.5 96.5 101.5 106.5 112 117 122 127 132 137 cm
yarn requirements
raglan
gauge in sts/inch
3
4
5
6
7
570 620 680 730 780 830 870 900 940 980 yd
521 567 622 668 713 759 796 823 860 896 m
810 870 960 1040 1110 1180 1230 1280 1330 1380
741 796 878 951 1015 1079 1125 1170 1216 1262
1020 1100 1210 1310 1400 1480 1550 1610 1680 1740
933 1006 1106 1198 1280 1353 1417 1472 1536 1591
1440 1560 1710 1850 1970 2100 2190 2280 2380 2470
1317 1426 1564 1692 1801 1920 2003 2085 2176 2259
1590 1710 1880 2030 2170 2310 2420 2510 2620 2710
1454 1564 1719 1856 1984 2112 2213 2295 2396 2478
Yoke
With cir needle, CO:
3 28 30 30 32 32 34 34 36 36 38 sts.
g a u g e
sts/inch
4 34 36 36 38 40 46 48 50 50 52
5 44 46 48 50 52 60 60 62 64 66
6 50 52 54 56 58 72 74 76 78 80
7 60 64 66 68 70 78 80 84 86 88
Do not join. Rows begin at center front.
Set-up row: With WS facing, purl 1 row and at the same time place marker (pm) after 1 st to
denote left front.
Then place an additional marker after the foll number of sts to denote the left sleeve:
3 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 sts.
4 4 4 4 4 4 6 6 6 6 6
5 6 6 6 6 6 8 8 8 8 8
6 6 6 6 6 6 10 10 10 10 10
7 8 8 8 8 8 10 10 10 10 10
6 the knitter’s handy book of top-down sweaters

finished bust/chest circumference
36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54"
91.5 96.5 101.5 106.5 112 117 122 127 132 137 cm
Then place an additional marker after the foll number of sts to denote the back:
3 18 20 20 22 22 24 24 26 26 28 sts.
4 24 26 26 28 30 32 34 36 36 38
5 30 32 34 36 38 42 42 44 46 48
6 36 38 40 42 44 50 52 54 56 58
7 42 46 48 50 52 56 58 62 64 66
raglan
Then place an additional marker after the foll number of sts to denote the right sleeve:
3 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 sts.
4 4 4 4 4 4 6 6 6 6 6
5 6 6 6 6 6 8 8 8 8 8
6 6 6 6 6 6 10 10 10 10 10
7 8 8 8 8 8 10 10 10 10 10
There will remain 1 st for right front.
Note: When working yoke, change to longer cir needle as necessary to accommodate the
large number of sts.
Quick Tips for Circular Knitting
••
The advantage to knitting sweaters in
the round is that there are no seams
to sew. However, side seams can help
to stabilize a garment and encourage
it to hang vertically without twisting
or torquing to one side or the other. To
ensure against this tendency, work the
center underarm stitch in a different
stitch pattern, such as garter stitch
(alternate between knitting and purling
these stitches every round), reverse
stockinette stitch (purl these stitches
every round), or slip stitch (slip these
stitches every other round), to cause a
break in the pattern and encourage the
body to hang straight.
••
Sometimes a vertical line of loose
stitches develops at the boundaries
between double-pointed needles.
» quick tip «
raglan sweaters
7

Discover top-down
knitting from the
ground-up
with expert Ann Budd
Ann Budd’s creative ingenuity continues to marvel
fiber and yarn enthusiasts nationwide, and this
latest addition to The Knitter’s Handy Book series
is no exception. Answering to a growing interest in
knitting sweaters from the top down and knitting
seamless sweaters that require little finishing, this
essential book offers instructions for designing
and knitting your own one-of-a-kind top-down
sweaters. Instructions are based on five basic
sweater types (seamless yoke, raglan, modified
drop shoulder, set-in sleeve, and saddle shoulder),
in multiple sizes for both adults and children, and
in multiple yarn gauges. Each of the five sweater
types is conveniently accompanied by three fulllength
patterns, one from a featured top designer.
In this volume, knitters will find the elements
that make any Handy Book a must-have: detailed
charts, clear instruction, how-tos for adding
personal design touches, and quick tips to avoid
mistakes and create flawless final garments.
A key reference for all passionate knitters, The
Knitter’s Handy Book of Top-Down Sweaters is the new
indispensable knitting resource on your bookshelf.
Ann Budd is the best-selling author of Sock Knitting
Master Class, The Knitter’s Handy Book of Patterns, The
Knitter’s Handy Book of Sweater Patterns, Getting Started
Knitting Socks, Interweave Presents Knitted Gifts, Knitting
Green, and Simple Style. She is also the coauthor of
Bag Style, Color Style, Lace Style, and Wrap Style. She is
a book editor and the former senior editor of Interweave
Knits magazine. Visit her at www.annbuddknits.com.
Contents
Introduction: Take It from the Top
Seamless Yoke Sweaters
Child Sizes
Adult Sizes
Projects
• Feather and Fan Flare
• Fibonacci Rings
• “Quince-Essential” Fair Isle
by guest designer Pam Allen
Raglan Sweaters
Child Sizes
Adult Sizes
Projects
• Weekday Raglan
• A Twisted Little Raglan
• India Print Henley
by guest designer Anne Hanson
Modified Drop-Shoulder Sweaters
Child Sizes
Adult Sizes
Projects
• Unisex Zip
• Weekend Retreat
• Basket Case Cardigan
by guest designer Kristen TenDyke
Set-in Sleeve Sweaters
Child Sizes
Adult Sizes
Projects
• Golden Ribs and Welts
• Brioche Basic
• Alpine Tweed
by guest designer Jared Flood
Saddle-Shoulder Sweaters
Child Sizes
Adult Sizes
Projects
• Cable Love Henley
• Retro Peplum
• Zigs & Zags
by guest designer Véronik Avery
Glossary
Sources for Yarns
Bibliography
Hardcover with concealed wire-o
7 × 9¼, 232 pages
ISBN 978-1-59668-483-6
$29.95 • Available July 2012