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N ORTH<br />

A FRICA &<br />

THE M IDDLE E AST<br />

EGYPT<br />

JORDAN<br />

SYRIA<br />

LEBANON<br />

MOROCCO<br />

TUNISIA<br />

LIBYA<br />

IRAN<br />

OMAN<br />

TAILOR- MADE J OURNEYS FOR THE D ISCERNING T RAVELLER


Dear <strong>Travel</strong>ler<br />

Nowhere in the world is as full of history<br />

as the countries of North Africa and the<br />

Middle East, and with political change<br />

sweeping the region, history continues to<br />

be made.<br />

Many ancient civilisations have held sway<br />

in this region: Sumerians, Phoenicians,<br />

Egyptians, Romans and Greeks all left their<br />

mark on the landscape, long before the Arab<br />

Conquest and the battles of the Crusades.<br />

Although the sites of antiquity are the<br />

main draw, there are also plenty of other<br />

experiences to enthral the traveller –<br />

traditional cultures existing in a modern<br />

world, bustling bazaars, sophisticated<br />

cuisines, fascinating national parks and<br />

inspirational desert and mountain scenery.<br />

All of our North Africa and Middle East<br />

specialists have travelled extensively<br />

through the region and many have lived<br />

there and studied the Arabic language.<br />

Not only are they passionate about this<br />

part of the world, they also know the<br />

practicalities of travelling here, and have<br />

daily contact with our partners on the<br />

ground to keep up to date with the very<br />

latest developments in each of the countries<br />

we cover. If you have tentative plans and<br />

would like an informal chat, or have more<br />

concrete ideas and want to start planning<br />

in earnest, please feel free to call them.<br />

Whether you are travelling here for the<br />

first time, or returning to explore in more<br />

depth, I hope our passion is infectious and<br />

inspires you to visit this historic and<br />

fascinating corner of the world.<br />

Craig Burkinshaw<br />

Managing Director


Introducing <strong>Audley</strong><br />

After developing a real passion for travel in the early 1990s, Craig Burkinshaw founded<br />

<strong>Audley</strong>, or Asian Journeys as we were then called. Craig wanted to make it possible for<br />

others to share the same experiences and, from these small beginnings, the company was born.<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> offered a new type of travel – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s<br />

interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality, authenticity<br />

and a passion for travel. Today <strong>Audley</strong> is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist<br />

tour operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, the Middle East,<br />

Latin America, Australasia, Antarctica and the Arctic, Canada and Alaska.<br />

Tailor-made journeys<br />

The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every trip<br />

is unique. Whether you want to stay in simple or<br />

luxurious accommodation, have great guides on<br />

hand or explore under your own steam, travel for<br />

one week or five, we can create a trip to match<br />

your tastes and budget. We can also design trips<br />

for a special occasion, where added touches can<br />

change an adventurous journey into a spectacular<br />

honeymoon, anniversary or birthday celebration.<br />

Your trip can be tailored to suit your particular<br />

interests, such as wildlife, photography or diving,<br />

and we have the specialist knowledge to match.<br />

Throughout the brochure you will find suggested<br />

itineraries and some of our favourite places to<br />

stay. These are included purely to offer inspiration<br />

and give you a flavour of what is possible, as each<br />

journey is created individually to give you the<br />

opportunity to experience a destination in exactly<br />

the way you choose.<br />

Planning your trip<br />

Once you have some ideas for your trip, or if<br />

you just want some general guidance, call one of<br />

our North Africa and Middle East specialists on<br />

01993 838 400. They can offer advice and discuss<br />

your plans with you before creating a detailed<br />

itinerary, which will be forwarded to you together<br />

with maps, accommodation information, colour<br />

photographs and a price. Your specialist can then<br />

continue to refine the plans until you are<br />

completely satisfied. They will be on hand from<br />

the start of the planning process until your return<br />

and are always available to answer questions and<br />

offer sound advice.<br />

Specialist knowledge<br />

Our North Africa and Middle East specialists have<br />

all travelled extensively throughout the region and<br />

in many cases lived there, so you can rely on their<br />

extensive, first-hand knowledge. They regularly<br />

return to see the accommodation, meet our<br />

guides – many of whom are firm friends –<br />

experience all the excursions and activities, and<br />

keep up-to-date with local developments. They<br />

pride themselves on having an honest ‘tell it how<br />

it is’ approach to planning your trip and, as well<br />

as their own comprehensive knowledge, are able<br />

to draw on the considerable collective experience<br />

of their colleagues. We believe this approach is<br />

unique to <strong>Audley</strong> and the only way that we can<br />

genuinely offer you a tailor-made service.<br />

Financial security<br />

All travel arrangements in this brochure that<br />

include a flight are ATOL protected by the Civil<br />

Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817.<br />

Please see our booking conditions for more<br />

information. If your arrangements do not include<br />

any flights from the UK they are protected by a<br />

separate financial scheme, for further details<br />

please visit www.audleytravel.com/protect<br />

The pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx<br />

Contents<br />

Introduction 2-7<br />

Egypt 8-29<br />

Jordan 30-45<br />

Syria 46-55<br />

Lebanon 56-59<br />

Morocco 60-77<br />

Tunisia 78-81<br />

Libya 82-83<br />

Iran 84-89<br />

Oman 90-98<br />

Useful information 99


Experience North Africa<br />

and the Middle East<br />

With Arabic spoken across most of the region it is easy to think of the countries in<br />

North Africa and the Middle East as being homogeneous and indistinct. This is far<br />

from the case though, and each has its own unique customs, traditions, and history to be<br />

discovered and experienced.<br />

Ancient sites<br />

Byzantine mosaic, Lebanon<br />

Carpets in Kairouan, Tunisia<br />

Nasir al Mulk Mosque, Iran<br />

From Voloubilis in Morocco to Persepolis in Iran,<br />

the region’s archaeology and architecture<br />

demonstrate the historical and cultural influences<br />

which have come and gone through the millennia<br />

across the region. Egypt has perhaps the richest<br />

collection of ancient monuments, spread<br />

throughout the country and with plenty still to<br />

be discovered. The Pyramids of Giza are without<br />

doubt one of the most recognisable structures in<br />

the world, and exploring the Nile Valley will bring<br />

you to one of the largest religious buildings in the<br />

region, the Temple of Karnak. Archaeological sites<br />

in Lebanon and Syria originate from a medley of<br />

different periods of antiquity, with places such as<br />

Byblos claiming a history of over eight millennia.<br />

In Tunisia, evidence of the Carthaginians was<br />

almost entirely swept from the map with only<br />

tiny vestiges of their civilisation still visible today,<br />

at Kerkouane and the Punic Ports.<br />

The cradle of civilisation<br />

What strikes most visitors to this area is just how<br />

ancient the sites and monuments littered across<br />

the region are. The Pyramids of Giza, for instance,<br />

were more ancient to Jesus than Jesus is to us<br />

now. As far back as the fifth millennium BC, the<br />

Sumerians were developing sophisticated social<br />

structures and around 1400 BC, the Phoenicians<br />

created the first alphabet in their original lands in<br />

the Levant. The Great Pyramid in Egypt was<br />

completed around 2600 BC and Ancient Egyptian<br />

culture flourished for thousands of years before<br />

being absorbed into the Classical World. The<br />

Greeks and the Romans in their turn dominated<br />

the region, leaving behind their trademark<br />

colonnaded streets, temples and theatres. Against<br />

this backdrop, the Jewish and Christian faiths<br />

came into being, followed in the 7th century AD<br />

by Islam, spreading outwards from the Arabian<br />

peninsula with the Arab Conquest. The countries<br />

of the region are thus home to some of the most<br />

important religious monuments in the world,<br />

including the earliest temples, churches, mosques<br />

and the tombs of the prophets.<br />

Local ladies, Egypt<br />

Local culture and etiquette<br />

A degree of cultural sensitivity is required when<br />

visiting the countries in this brochure. Religion is<br />

an important aspect of life for most of the people<br />

you will meet – Islam is the predominant faith,<br />

but Christianity and Judaism are also present,<br />

along with small sects such as the Druze in Syria<br />

and Lebanon. The level of conservatism varies<br />

from country to country, and some have had<br />

greater exposure to European visitors than<br />

others, so the degree of moderation you need<br />

to display does vary. Our specialists will advise<br />

you on this.<br />

However, there are some general rules that you<br />

should always respect. Women should not wear<br />

tight or revealing clothing, and it is always<br />

advisable to keep the shoulders and upper arms<br />

covered, as well as wearing shorts or skirts and<br />

dresses that reach at least to the knee. Men<br />

should always wear a shirt or t-shirt; in some<br />

places shorts are acceptable, in others trousers<br />

are a better option. Where it is possible to visit<br />

a religious building, such as a mosque or a<br />

church, always cover the shoulders, arms and legs.<br />

In mosques you will normally also be required to<br />

take off your shoes and women may be required<br />

to cover their heads. Ramadan, the month of<br />

fasting in Islam, is a time when things slow down<br />

a bit during the day and opening hours are<br />

curtailed, although it is perfectly possible to travel<br />

in some countries at this time.<br />

4


Guiding and excursions<br />

Your guides will bring the history of the ancient<br />

world alive and provide a modern context to the<br />

places that you visit. In some countries they will<br />

accompany you throughout your trip and at<br />

other times local guides will be provided for<br />

specific sites or cities.<br />

In countries such as Jordan and Oman, we<br />

recommend travelling with a driver only or<br />

self-driving. On Nile cruises, the excursions are<br />

always in small groups of around 15 people.<br />

Guides in Egypt all have to study for a<br />

wide-ranging degree in order to gain<br />

employment. They are consequently very well<br />

informed about all periods of Egyptian history<br />

including the legends of Ancient Egypt and<br />

aspects of Coptic and Islamic traditions.<br />

Spices for sale, Morocco<br />

Desert experiences<br />

The image of camping out in the lee of majestic<br />

sand dunes under a brilliant night sky is a<br />

powerful draw. Picking the right destination and<br />

accommodation for this experience is essential.<br />

We have sought out small, intimate desert camps,<br />

notably in the Sahara in Morocco, Wadi Rum in<br />

Jordan and the Wahiba Sands in Oman, all of<br />

which have a good range of facilities.<br />

Hiking and walking tours<br />

The mountains of Morocco and the nature<br />

reserves of Jordan are established destinations for<br />

hiking. Options range from day walks in the High<br />

Atlas and Dana Nature Reserve through to<br />

ascents of Morocco’s Jebel Toubkal and five day<br />

hikes into Petra. In the cities you may wish to<br />

follow one of our walking tours, which are<br />

designed to show the usual highlights and<br />

destinations in a new light. They are not especially<br />

arduous and will typically take two to four hours,<br />

combining historic sights with glimpses of<br />

modern-day life.<br />

Roman city of Jerash, Jordan<br />

Roman history<br />

With the exception of Oman and Iran,<br />

every country in this brochure has<br />

experienced the tramp of legionary<br />

boots and the rule of toga-clad<br />

governors. The Roman narrative, from<br />

the early days of the Republic to the<br />

collapse of the Empire, can be traced<br />

through the basilicas, monumental<br />

arches, forums and theatres which are<br />

still standing. From Voloubilis in Morocco<br />

right through to Palmyra in Syria, the<br />

Roman Empire’s influence can be felt<br />

and seen across much of the region.<br />

Camel driver, Saqqara, Egypt<br />

01993 838 400 ● Introduction 5


Experience North Africa<br />

and the Middle East<br />

Tagines, Morocco<br />

Cuisine<br />

Cuisine in the Arab world is interesting and<br />

flavoursome, using fresh produce as well as a<br />

wide range of spices such as cardamom, cumin,<br />

coriander and sumac (the latter being typical of<br />

the Levant).<br />

Lebanese influence is found across the region<br />

and the formula of a selection of starters, known<br />

as mezze, followed by a main course, usually<br />

including red meat or chicken and served with<br />

rice, is common in Syria, Egypt and Jordan.<br />

Morocco has superb food, with the local<br />

specialities of tajine and couscous now popular<br />

worldwide. Such is the interest in Moroccan<br />

cuisine that there are now opportunities to take<br />

cookery courses during your stay in Marrakesh.<br />

Tunisian food is similar to Moroccan, although it<br />

is a bit spicier owing to the liberal use of harissa<br />

(a chilli paste). Seafood, taken directly from the<br />

Mediterranean, is also a highlight. There isn’t<br />

really a recognisable Omani cuisine and dishes<br />

tend to incorporate influences from neighbouring<br />

areas, such as India, Iran and the Arab world.<br />

Further east, Persian food is influenced by the<br />

Subcontinent, with saffron infused dishes.<br />

Accommodation<br />

Styles of accommodation vary greatly, although<br />

standards are generally high. Morocco has the<br />

most interesting accommodation options, with its<br />

wide array of riads. These are intimate converted<br />

townhouses, which display the best of traditional<br />

architecture and design and are usually located<br />

at the heart of the medinas (old walled part of<br />

the towns).<br />

In Egypt and Jordan, properties tend to be<br />

comfortable international chain hotels with plenty<br />

of facilities. Nods are made towards traditional<br />

architecture although they are not always imbued<br />

with local character. There are some notable<br />

exceptions such as the heritage hotels in Egypt<br />

and Feynan Ecolodge in Jordan. Syria and Tunisia<br />

offer modern hotels as well as converted family<br />

homes in the old towns. Oman has a wide array<br />

of luxury hotels in the capital, Muscat. Most are<br />

quite grand, but one or two have more style and<br />

character. Outside Muscat, accommodation is<br />

fairly basic, although always clean and<br />

comfortable. In much of Libya and Iran, basic<br />

standards are the best you can hope for: the<br />

focus for any trip to these countries should be<br />

the excursions and not the accommodation.<br />

Young Moroccan man in Ait Benhaddou<br />

Typical riad, Morocco<br />

6<br />

Palmyra in the evening, Syria


Al-Azhar Mosque, Egypt<br />

Responsible travel<br />

We are passionate about travel but also deeply<br />

aware of the responsibility we have to the people<br />

and places we visit. We believe that a visit from<br />

an <strong>Audley</strong> traveller should have a positive impact<br />

on the destination and, wherever possible, bring<br />

real benefits. We always endeavour to use locally<br />

owned hotels, work with local guides and<br />

operators, and promote community and wildlife<br />

projects. Our <strong>Travel</strong>ler’s Code offers tips and<br />

advice you can use to ensure your trip does not<br />

threaten the sustainability of the places you visit.<br />

We carbon offset all our staff flights and you can<br />

choose to do the same, please speak to your<br />

specialist about this or follow the link on our<br />

website www.audleytravel.com/offset.<br />

Our commitment to responsible travel has been<br />

audited by AITO (Association of Independent<br />

Tour Operators) and we have been awarded<br />

five stars, the maximum achievable. We also<br />

support a variety of social and environmental<br />

charities and projects around the world.<br />

In the past, the North Africa and Middle East<br />

team has raised money to support The Hannan<br />

School in Morocco, which works to provide<br />

better education and welfare for a small Berber<br />

community in the Middle Atlas mountains.<br />

We continue to organise fundraising events to<br />

support similar projects.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong>ling around<br />

We use the most convenient means of transport<br />

for each sector of your journey and it is likely that<br />

your <strong>Audley</strong> specialist has travelled along the<br />

same route themself. In general road journeys are<br />

undertaken in modern, air-conditioned vehicles,<br />

while 4x4 vehicles are used for expeditions into<br />

the deserts. Rail journeys are possible in Morocco<br />

and Egypt, but the overnight journeys are not<br />

always the most comfortable way to get around.<br />

In Egypt, cruises on the Nile and Lake Nasser<br />

are often the most convenient way to visit many<br />

of the archaeological sites in a short time, as well<br />

as offering opportunities to see modern Egyptian<br />

life along the river and to spend time relaxing<br />

on board.<br />

Trader at Nizwa cattle market, Oman<br />

Traditional felucca boat on the Nile, Egypt<br />

Political change in the region<br />

Momentous change has taken place in the region,<br />

with old certainties falling away.<br />

In the long term these changes should offer the<br />

hope of a better and brighter future for the<br />

peoples of these lands. Such is the enormity of<br />

them though, that the ripples will no doubt be felt<br />

for many years to come. On occasion, this can<br />

create uncertainty as to whether to travel or not.<br />

For all the countries in which <strong>Audley</strong> operates,<br />

the UK Foreign & Commonwealth Office acts as<br />

an arbiter of whether countries are safe to visit,<br />

and we will always be guided by their expert<br />

advice. Our specialists are always very happy to<br />

discuss any concerns you may have.<br />

01993 838 400 ● Introduction 7


Egypt<br />

For centuries, Egypt has been drawing<br />

visitors to marvel at the temples and<br />

funerary monuments of its ancient<br />

civilisation. Lining the banks of the Nile,<br />

they are crammed into the narrow strip of<br />

fertile land within the desert which makes<br />

up most of the country. From the iconic<br />

Pyramids of Giza to the temples of Abu<br />

Simbel, there is an array of sites that form<br />

the core of Egypt’s appeal. There is more to<br />

Egypt than just the Ancient Egyptians<br />

though, and Cairo is the perfect example,<br />

where layer upon layer of medieval history<br />

competes for space with Fatimid citadels,<br />

Mamluke souqs, Ottoman mosques and the<br />

trappings of a modern city. Beyond the Nile,<br />

the Red Sea’s stunning coral reefs are fringed<br />

by sandy beaches which enjoy year-round sun.<br />

Deserts are filled with remarkable rock<br />

formations and sand seas which shelter<br />

isolated oases and remote monasteries. While<br />

many of Egypt’s historic attractions are still<br />

in situ, a wonderful selection of artefacts<br />

can also be found in the country’s museums.<br />

Chief amongst them is the Museum of<br />

Egyptian Antiquities in Cairo, one of the<br />

most famous museums in the world.<br />

8


<strong>Audley</strong> in Egypt<br />

1<br />

2<br />

5<br />

4<br />

3<br />

7<br />

With most of Egypt’s places of interest lying<br />

along the line of the Nile, travelling from one<br />

to another is straightforward. <strong>Travel</strong> across<br />

larger distances is by air, while local travel<br />

and sightseeing are easiest with a private<br />

driver and guide. Nile cruises are the most<br />

popular way to visit Egypt’s greatest<br />

archaeological treasures around Luxor and<br />

Aswan, and include guided excursions. These<br />

are in groups of around 20, with professional,<br />

English-speaking guides. For the more<br />

adventurous, desert excursions with 4x4<br />

vehicles on a private basis can allow you to<br />

discover lesser-known sites and attractions.<br />

Certain dates, such as the holy month of<br />

Ramadan, when most of the country fasts<br />

during daylight hours, may affect your travel<br />

plans. We will always ensure such factors<br />

are taken into account.<br />

6<br />

Accommodation<br />

The Pyramids of Giza<br />

1 The Pyramids<br />

Egypt’s most iconic site,<br />

located on the outskirts of<br />

Cairo, the Pyramids are<br />

amongst the world’s greatest<br />

ancient monuments.<br />

2 Cairo<br />

Below the surface of what<br />

seems an ordinary, busy and<br />

modern city, you will find layer<br />

upon layer of history.<br />

3 Karnak Temple<br />

Just one of Ancient Egypt’s<br />

extraordinary monuments,<br />

Karnak is the largest ancient<br />

religious complex in the world.<br />

4 Valley of the Kings<br />

The location of the pharaohs’<br />

tombs, which are exquisitely<br />

decorated with frescoes telling<br />

of ancient legends.<br />

5 The Nile<br />

Lifeblood of the Egyptians,<br />

ancient and modern, the Nile is<br />

a spectacular river. A journey<br />

along its course is an essential<br />

part of your trip.<br />

6 Abu Simbel<br />

Abu Simbel is the most<br />

southerly of the Ancient<br />

Egyptian monuments, but what<br />

makes it so impressive is the<br />

fact that the temples were<br />

moved from their original<br />

position following the creation<br />

of Lake Nasser.<br />

Underwater life, Red Sea<br />

7 The Red Sea<br />

Cairo’s underwater treasures<br />

match the ancient ones found<br />

on land. The reefs of the Red<br />

Sea are home to a myriad of<br />

fish and coral species.<br />

Felucca on the Nile<br />

The desert oases<br />

Isolated by miles of desert from<br />

one another and from the Nile,<br />

the desert oases have<br />

developed their own cultures.<br />

Heritage hotels<br />

The Mena House Oberoi Hotel<br />

in Cairo, the Old Winter Palace<br />

in Luxor and the Old Cataract<br />

in Aswan are three of the<br />

country’s venerable hotels, each<br />

with period character and<br />

excellent locations.<br />

Karnak Temple<br />

There is a good range of accommodation<br />

available in Egypt with some hotels offering<br />

good value, others providing a characterful<br />

place to stay and others offering luxurious<br />

comfort. The country is blessed with some<br />

wonderful historic hotels, rich in charm and<br />

character. Many of these have played host to<br />

historical events or visiting dignitaries through<br />

the ages. Other properties tend to be<br />

international chain hotels that are very<br />

comfortable and have higher levels of service,<br />

but offer less in the way of character. Many<br />

hotels in Egypt are set near the Nile<br />

or the sea, and where possible we would<br />

suggest upgrading to rooms which make the<br />

most of the views as the supplements are<br />

seldom prohibitive.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Egypt, please see<br />

pages 28-29.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Egypt<br />

specialists 01993 838 410<br />

Egypt 9


Al-Azhar Park, Cairo<br />

Cairo<br />

Sprawling across the Nile, Cairo is one of Africa’s<br />

greatest cities and it continues to grow at a rapid<br />

pace. It is very much the focus of Egypt’s political<br />

and cultural life, so much so that Egyptians refer<br />

to their country and their capital with the same<br />

name – ‘Masr’. First impressions are of urban<br />

sprawl, dusty streets and chaotic driving, but<br />

visitors who persevere are rewarded with a<br />

diverse and dramatic history and some relatively<br />

unknown attractions. The one stop that must be<br />

included in any visit to Cairo is the Museum of<br />

Egyptian Antiquities, which contains a vast<br />

treasure trove handed down through the ages –<br />

the building itself is a jewel of the French colonial<br />

period in Egypt. Scratch beneath the surface and<br />

Cairo reveals wondrous secrets, beautiful<br />

mosques, an imposing citadel, labyrinthine bazaars,<br />

ancient Coptic churches and unexpected patches<br />

of green beside the River Nile.<br />

Cairo Walking Tour<br />

We have designed a self guided walking tour of<br />

Cairo based on our personal experiences and<br />

knowledge of the city. Eschewing the standard<br />

stops on most visitors’ itineraries, it not only<br />

shows the city’s less well-known gates, mosques<br />

and monuments, but also offers an insight into<br />

daily Cairene life, in all its entertaining chaos.<br />

Street by street directions let you explore at your<br />

own pace and pass from the colonial-era<br />

Downtown district to your final destination, the<br />

legendary medieval souqs at Khan El Khalili.<br />

SOFITEL EL GEZIRAH, CAIRO<br />

The Sofitel is located on the southern tip of<br />

Gezirah Island, between the Downtown and<br />

Giza areas of Cairo, in a secluded, relatively quiet<br />

spot. The 433 rooms have a subtle decor and<br />

smart, compact bathrooms. The hotel boasts<br />

fantastic views over the Nile, with the Muqattam<br />

Hills and the Pyramids of Giza visible on clear<br />

days. Inside, the range of facilities is impressive,<br />

with a Middle Eastern restaurant, and as one<br />

would expect from the Sofitel chain, a French<br />

restaurant, amongst other dining options.<br />

The Museum of<br />

Egyptian Antiquities<br />

The joke goes that there are so many<br />

artefacts packed into the Museum of<br />

Egyptian Antiquities in Cairo that some<br />

of them need to be re-excavated from<br />

the basement. Whether or not this is<br />

true, it is clear that the museum is in<br />

need of some renovation or even a<br />

relocation – both solutions have been<br />

mooted in past years. Nonetheless, the<br />

museum is an essential inclusion on any<br />

trip to Cairo. Rooms are crammed with<br />

statues, models, jewellery and mummies,<br />

but the highlight is undoubtedly the<br />

Tutankhamun galleries, displaying the<br />

funerary artefacts of the Boy Pharaoh,<br />

glistening with gold, precious lapis lazuli<br />

and coral stones.<br />

Sofitel El Gezirah, Cairo<br />

10


Mosaic, Hanging Church, Coptic Cairo<br />

Minarets of Islamic Cairo<br />

FOUR SEASONS FIRST<br />

RESIDENCE, CAIRO<br />

Located on the Giza side (west bank) of the Nile,<br />

the Four Seasons is a grand, elegant and luxurious<br />

hotel. As part of the prestigious First Residence<br />

complex, the hotel has direct access to<br />

sophisticated haute couture boutiques and<br />

galleries, yet the ancient history and culture of the<br />

city are just minutes away. The 269 rooms and<br />

suites are among the largest in the city and are<br />

designed with elegance and relaxation in mind,<br />

while the large spa is the perfect place to unwind<br />

after a day’s sightseeing.<br />

Four Seasons First Residence, Cairo<br />

Rooftop pool, Kempinski Nile Hotel, Cairo<br />

KEMPINSKI NILE HOTEL, CAIRO<br />

With one of the most exclusive addresses in<br />

central Cairo, the Kempinski Nile Hotel offers a<br />

tasteful blend of European luxury with exotic<br />

Egyptian flavour. Smaller than other international<br />

hotels in the city, it promises a more personal<br />

and intimate atmosphere. The hotel is<br />

immaculately decorated and the attention to<br />

detail is outstanding. It boasts all the modern<br />

facilities that you could ask for, with a number<br />

of bars and restaurants, a beautiful spa and a<br />

rooftop swimming pool, topped off by great<br />

views of the Nile.<br />

St George’s Church, Coptic Cairo<br />

Islamic Cairo<br />

Islamic Cairo is a distinct quarter of the capital<br />

and is a wonderful place to explore on foot, with<br />

beautiful examples of Islamic architecture found<br />

around each corner. It is difficult to discern the<br />

city walls any more but some of the gates remain.<br />

The grand Bab an-Nasr and Bab Zuweila gates at<br />

the northern and southern ends of the city show<br />

just how powerful and prosperous a place Cairo<br />

was in the medieval age. Elsewhere, tranquil<br />

madrassas, mausoleums and traditional family<br />

homes offer an insight into life in a Muslim city of<br />

the past, contrasting with the bustling streets filled<br />

with the cries of vendors and the aromas of<br />

spices, coffee, incense and perfumes.<br />

Coptic Cairo<br />

Coptic Cairo is one of the quietest areas of the<br />

capital, its calm streets and alleys a welcome relief<br />

from the hustle and bustle of central Cairo. This is<br />

the oldest part of the city, and is home to ancient<br />

churches and Africa’s first mosque. It is here that<br />

the Holy Family is reputed to have stayed during<br />

the flight to Egypt, as described in the Bible. The<br />

Hanging Church (Al-Mu’allaqa in Arabic) is one<br />

of the capital’s most iconic monuments, cherished<br />

by Christians and Muslims alike. It is not only a<br />

beautiful piece of architecture but also an<br />

extraordinary feat of engineering, built without<br />

foundations so it appears suspended in its position.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 11


Pyramids<br />

The Pyramids of Giza<br />

The Pyramids of Giza<br />

More than any other monuments, the Pyramids<br />

of Giza symbolise the mystic appeal that Egypt<br />

has exerted over travellers for centuries.<br />

Instantly recognisable, their vast silhouettes<br />

dominate the Giza skyline, with gritty streets on<br />

one side and endless desert sands on the other.<br />

Sentinel to the Pyramids, the Sphinx sits in<br />

enigmatic splendour.<br />

The Giza Plateau spreads for several kilometres,<br />

with the three Pyramids the most obvious<br />

monuments in a much larger burial complex.<br />

The Pyramids date back to the fourth dynasty<br />

of the Ancient Egyptians, (between 2670 BC<br />

and 2500 BC) and were one of the Seven<br />

Wonders of the Ancient World. You can go<br />

inside some of the pyramids, but it is a bit of a<br />

physical ordeal and it is not recommended for<br />

those who are claustrophobic.<br />

Guardian, Saqqara<br />

Sphinx at Memphis, near Cairo<br />

Visiting the Pyramids of Giza,<br />

Saqqara and Dashur<br />

We would recommend a day to visit the<br />

Pyramids of Giza, Saqqara and Dashur,<br />

accompanied by a driver and guide. Your guide<br />

will recount the histories of all three sites and<br />

the stories of the pharaohs who ordered the<br />

construction of these burial monuments. By<br />

visiting Giza, Saqqara and Dashur you will be<br />

able to get a really in-depth insight into the<br />

development of pyramid design, starting with<br />

the mastabas (a simple tomb structure that<br />

developed over time to become a pyramid)<br />

on view at Saqqara and ending with the zenith<br />

of Ancient Egyptian engineering and architecture<br />

at the Great Pyramids of Cheops.<br />

Saqqara<br />

Within easy reach of Cairo, the site of Saqqara<br />

is far less visited than the Giza Plateau. Saqqara<br />

is where the royalty and nobility of Memphis<br />

(Ancient Egypt’s capital) were buried, and there<br />

are a large number of mastabas and temples to<br />

explore. The most important is the Step<br />

Pyramid of Zoser, which predates the Great<br />

Pyramid of Cheops by about 75 years and<br />

marks the moment when the pyramid age<br />

began under the direction of the architect<br />

Imhotep. Building on increasingly larger mortuary<br />

mastabas for his pharaoh Zoser, Imhotep<br />

eventually struck on the idea of a stepped<br />

pyramid, and the other larger and more famous<br />

pyramids took their inspiration directly from<br />

this design.<br />

The Step Pyramid at Saqqara<br />

12


The Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx<br />

The Bent Pyramid, Dashur<br />

Dashur<br />

The furthest of the Ancient Egyptian sites visited<br />

from Cairo, Dashur is an impressive pyramid<br />

field with two particularly notable examples,<br />

both completed during the reign of the Pharaoh<br />

Snofru, the father of Cheops and founder of the<br />

fourth dynasty. The Red Pyramid, so called<br />

because of the red limestone used in its<br />

construction, is the second largest in Egypt, only<br />

exceeded in size by the Great Pyramid at Giza.<br />

The Bent Pyramid is remarkable for two<br />

reasons. Firstly the angle of the slope changes<br />

abruptly halfway up the face of the pyramid<br />

(hence its name) and secondly, its limestone<br />

cladding is almost intact, unlike all other Egyptian<br />

pyramids. This gives a very rare insight into how<br />

all pyramids must have looked when first built.<br />

MENA HOUSE OBEROI HOTEL,<br />

CAIRO<br />

There can be few hotels with a location to<br />

match the Mena House. It is nestled at the foot<br />

of the Giza Plateau, directly below the looming<br />

presence of the Great Pyramid. Built as a<br />

hunting lodge by Khedive Ismail, a 19th century<br />

Egyptian ruler, it was converted to a hotel in<br />

1886 and welcomed guests from international<br />

royalty and high society. It was also where<br />

Churchill and Roosevelt met to plan the D-Day<br />

landings. Today it combines classic 19th century<br />

arabesque architecture and design with more<br />

modern features, along with 16 hectares of<br />

jasmine-scented gardens and a pool.<br />

View from balcony, Mena House Oberoi Hotel, Cairo<br />

The Red Pyramid, Dashur<br />

www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 13


Fort of Qaitbey, Alexandria<br />

Montazah Palace, Alexandria<br />

Alexandria<br />

For centuries, Alexandria was arguably the most<br />

important city in Classical civilisation. It was a<br />

centre of learning, where the earliest<br />

developments in science and philosophy were<br />

achieved and where the world’s largest collection<br />

of books was to be found. Precious little of the<br />

old Alexandria remains, just Pompey’s Pillar and<br />

the catacombs of Kom el-Shufaqa. The modern<br />

city has a Mediterranean air and becomes<br />

incredibly busy in the summer months, when<br />

Cairenes escape the heat to the country’s<br />

northern coastal resorts.<br />

14<br />

FOUR SEASONS, ALEXANDRIA<br />

Set on the Mediterranean coast, the Four Seasons<br />

is a short drive from many of the attractions that<br />

draw the visitor to Alexandria, including the Fort<br />

of Qaitbey, the catacombs and the museum. The<br />

hotel provides Four Seasons’ quality and service<br />

with the 118 rooms and suites furnished in an<br />

elegant European style. The atmosphere is intimate<br />

and exclusive, with a fantastic array of facilities,<br />

from superb restaurants to an excellent spa.<br />

Pompey’s Pillar, Alexandria<br />

Four Seasons, Alexandria<br />

El Alamein<br />

Heading along the coast from Alexandria to the<br />

west, there are a few more historic sites,<br />

including Abu Sir, known as Taposiris Magna in<br />

Classical times and renowned for its lighthouse.<br />

The main reason to travel to this region is to go<br />

to El Alamein, about 100 kilometres west of<br />

Alexandria. The battles here marked a turning<br />

point in World War II, with considerable loss of<br />

life on both sides. The rows of headstones in the<br />

various war cemeteries bear silent witness to<br />

heroism in Egypt’s desert.<br />

Commonwealth War Cemetery, El Alamein


Bedouin woman wearing traditional jewellery<br />

Old town of Siwa<br />

The White Desert<br />

Siwa oasis<br />

Siwa<br />

Located some 600 kilometres from Alexandria<br />

and surrounded in every direction by the<br />

treacherous dunes of the Sahara, the oasis of<br />

Siwa is largely untouched by the outside world.<br />

It remains an outpost of Berber culture and is a<br />

real contrast for visitors coming from Cairo, Luxor<br />

or Aswan. The Berbers in this town remained<br />

independent until 1820, when they finally came<br />

under Egyptian governance. They retain their own<br />

language, lifestyle, architecture and dress. Siwa is<br />

perhaps best known for the Oracle of Amun,<br />

where Alexander the Great sought confirmation<br />

that he was the son of Zeus. It can either be the<br />

sole destination on a trip into Egypt’s western<br />

desert, or a stop on a longer circuit of all the<br />

oases in this area.<br />

The Desert Circuit<br />

A desert adventure provides a great contrast to<br />

the well-trodden path of the Nile valley. The main<br />

oases are now mainly connected by asphalt roads,<br />

making it easier to explore the expanses of desert<br />

between places like Siwa, Kharga, Bahariya and<br />

Dakhla. Each oasis has its own atmosphere and<br />

landscape, including the salt lakes of Siwa, the<br />

dramatic White and Black Deserts between<br />

Bahariya and Farafra and the traditional mud-brick<br />

village of Dakhla.<br />

Adrère Amellal, Siwa<br />

Exploring the desert between Siwa and Bahariya<br />

ADRÈRE AMELLAL, SIWA<br />

An amazing feat of traditional engineering, this<br />

hotel is built entirely out of natural materials.<br />

There is no electricity or man-made fibres – all<br />

that you see, from the furniture made from salt,<br />

to the mud walls – is produced locally. There are<br />

40 rooms, each individually designed. You can<br />

choose a different courtyard every night for<br />

dinner, each giving you a different view. Set at<br />

the foot of the White Mountain, the hotel has<br />

commanding views of the salt lakes of Siwa and<br />

their native and migratory birdlife.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 15


Introduction to Egyptian history<br />

Tomb painting, Luxor<br />

Kiosk of Trajan, Philae Temple<br />

Ancient Egypt<br />

Ancient Egypt’s history stretches over 3,000<br />

years, and making sense of its various dynasties,<br />

pharaohs, gods, myths and legends is a challenge<br />

to most visitors. Visiting a variety of pyramids,<br />

temples and tombs during your trip goes some<br />

way to putting this history into context, but you<br />

may find that a detailed guidebook wouldn’t go<br />

amiss either.<br />

The history starts with the legendary founding<br />

of the Ancient Egyptian kingdom, under Pharaoh<br />

Menes, in around 3100 BC. This pharaoh,<br />

according to myth, unified the two kingdoms of<br />

Upper and Lower Egypt, consolidating them<br />

under one crown. From that moment, the<br />

Egyptians created one of the most developed<br />

civilisations of the ancient world. A complex<br />

series of myths featuring thousands of gods<br />

sprung up, helping the Egyptians to explain the<br />

creation of the earth and nature. Inventions such<br />

as papyrus paper and the hieroglyphic system of<br />

writing meant these myths were disseminated<br />

and recorded for posterity. In the last years of<br />

the Ancient Egyptian civilisation a series of<br />

foreign powers, including the Hellenistic forces<br />

of Alexander the Great, and the Roman Empire,<br />

began to hold sway over the lands, bringing to<br />

an end this great influence on the world’s history.<br />

Karnak Temple<br />

Monk, St Anthony’s Monastery<br />

Christian Egypt<br />

Following the Ancient Egyptians, the Hellenistic<br />

Ptolemaic dynasty and then the Romans ruled<br />

Egypt, bringing with them their own gods and<br />

religious myths. According to local tradition,<br />

Christianity was brought to Egypt by St Mark in<br />

around 60 AD, at the time of the Emperor<br />

Nero. In the years following St Mark’s arrival,<br />

local people became frustrated with the<br />

existing rulers from Rome, and were<br />

consequently enthusiastic converts to the new<br />

religion. The Copts, as these converts became<br />

known, encountered difficulties in practising their<br />

new faith and suffered considerable persecution<br />

even after Emperor Constantine made it the<br />

16


Coptic church service, Cairo<br />

Mosaic, Coptic church, Cairo<br />

official religion of the empire. In 451 AD, when<br />

attempts to reconcile Coptic beliefs and<br />

practices with those of Byzantium failed, the<br />

division became final and the Copts established<br />

their own Patriarchate in Alexandria.<br />

Ancient churches are found throughout Egypt,<br />

but particularly in Coptic Cairo. Monasteries in<br />

the midst of the deserts and mountains also<br />

date back over a thousand years in some cases.<br />

St Catherine’s Monastery in the Sinai and St<br />

Paul’s Monastery in the eastern desert are<br />

amongst the most beautiful and isolated religious<br />

buildings in the world. Today, Coptic Christians<br />

make up approximately ten per cent of the<br />

Egyptian population and have historically been<br />

very important in the political arena with<br />

Boutros Boutros Ghali being perhaps the most<br />

well-known Copt.<br />

St George’s Greek Orthodox Church, Coptic Cairo<br />

Citadel, Cairo<br />

Islamic Egypt<br />

The Arabs arrived in the 7th century AD,<br />

coming from the Arabian Peninsula to the lands<br />

of Egypt, soon after the time of the Prophet<br />

Mohammed. From this time onwards, Islam<br />

became the dominant religion of the area and<br />

remains the official state religion of Egypt.<br />

Since the 7th century, the country has been<br />

ruled by a succession of Islamic dynasties and<br />

empires – the Umayyads, Abbasids, Tulunids,<br />

Fatimids, Ayyubids, Mamlukes and Ottomans<br />

have all left their mark on the country’s history.<br />

The remnants of the golden ages of Islam can<br />

be seen throughout Egypt, but especially so in<br />

Cairo, which is practically a living museum of<br />

Islamic architecture. Buildings such as the Ibn<br />

Tulun Mosque, the Al-Azhar Mosque and the<br />

Citadel of Saladin all date to different periods<br />

of Islamic history and this is reflected in the<br />

styles and subtleties of their architecture.<br />

Nowadays, Egypt is perhaps even more<br />

devout than it was a century ago, demonstrated<br />

by the overflowing mosques every Friday, the<br />

minarets which soar into Cairo’s skyline and<br />

the enthusiasm with which Muslim Egyptians<br />

celebrate festivals such as Ramadan, Eid Al-Adha<br />

and the saints’ birthdays.<br />

Mosque and madrassa of Sultan Barquq, Cairo<br />

Mosque lamps for sale, Cairo<br />

Timeline<br />

3100 BC The two kingdoms of Lower and<br />

Upper Egypt are united.<br />

2560 BC Great Pyramid of Giza completed.<br />

2500 BC The Sphinx completed.<br />

1425 BC Egyptian power at its zenith,<br />

controlling territory from the north<br />

of Syria to southern Sudan.<br />

1350 BC Rule of Akhenaten and his wife<br />

Nefertiti, succeeded by his son<br />

Tutankhamun.<br />

1279 BC Rameses the Great ascends the<br />

throne. During his reign many temples<br />

and monuments are built throughout<br />

Egypt, including the incredible temples<br />

of Abu Simbel.<br />

552 BC Cambyses II conquers Egypt and makes<br />

it part of the vast Persian Empire.<br />

332 BC Alexander the Great conquers Egypt,<br />

his successors establish the city of<br />

Alexandria and usher in the<br />

Ptolemaic era.<br />

30 BC Egypt becomes a province of the<br />

Roman empire after the defeat of the<br />

Ptolemaic Queen Cleopatra and her<br />

Roman ally Marc Anthony.<br />

60 AD Christianity arrives in Egypt.<br />

646 AD Muslim conquest of Egypt.<br />

1517 AD Conquest of Egypt by the Ottomans.<br />

1798 AD Napoleon Bonaparte briefly conquers<br />

Egypt before being expelled by<br />

Ottoman, Mamluk and British forces.<br />

1805 AD Muhammad Ali, founder of modern<br />

Egypt, takes the throne.<br />

1875 AD Egypt becomes a de facto British<br />

protectorate.<br />

1922 AD Sultan Fuad 1 becomes leader of an<br />

independent Egypt, succeeded by his<br />

son King Farouk.<br />

1922 AD Howard Carter discovers the tomb<br />

of Tutankhamun.<br />

1953 AD Egypt declared a republic, Gamal<br />

Abdel Nasser becomes President<br />

shortly afterwards.<br />

1970 AD Completion of Aswan High Dam<br />

leads to formation of Lake Nasser.<br />

2011 AD Egyptians vote in the country’s first<br />

free elections.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 17


Luxor temple by night<br />

Felucca on the Nile at Luxor<br />

Luxor<br />

Located on the east bank of the Nile, most of<br />

the town of Luxor is modern, but has grown up<br />

around a phenomenal concentration of ancient<br />

monuments, including the world famous Karnak<br />

and Luxor temples. Cross the Nile to the west<br />

bank and you enter the necropolis of Thebes<br />

(the Ancient Egyptian name for Luxor), where the<br />

Ancient Egyptians’ buried their dead. There are a<br />

number of impressive funerary temples, but it is<br />

the tombs which draw people here. Carved into<br />

the rock, their decorations are still rich after<br />

thousands of years.<br />

18<br />

The Temples of Luxor<br />

and Karnak<br />

The Temple of Luxor is located at the heart<br />

of modern Luxor, its ancient columns<br />

incongruously set against new roads, buildings<br />

and the paraphernalia of a 21st century<br />

street. It was dedicated to the god Amun, his<br />

wife Mut and their son the moon god Khons.<br />

In common with all Egyptian religious<br />

complexes, it features chapels to the gods,<br />

a large hypostyle hall and a colonnaded open<br />

courtyard. The temple of Luxor was linked<br />

to that of Karnak by a street flanked by<br />

sphinxes, some of which can be seen on the<br />

edge of the temple complex. Karnak Temple,<br />

a little way outside Luxor, was built over a<br />

120 year period, and so consequently lacks<br />

continuity in its design and style.<br />

The entrance to Luxor Temple<br />

Statue of Thutmosis III, Karnak Temple<br />

This can be discerned when exploring the<br />

different temples, which date to the times<br />

of various different pharaohs. The hypostyle<br />

hall of 134 columns is truly a special sight<br />

to behold and even visitors who have<br />

been to Karnak before cannot fail to be<br />

impressed once again by the sheer scale of<br />

what they see.


The Valley of the Kings<br />

The Theban necropolis is found on the<br />

west bank of the Nile at Luxor, and is one<br />

of the most visited attractions in Egypt, and<br />

perhaps the world. Here funerary temples<br />

and tombs are are so well-preserved that<br />

they have taught archaeologists and historians<br />

a great deal about Ancient Egyptian history<br />

and legends, as well as the funerary practices<br />

of this civilisation.<br />

The Valley of the Kings is usually the<br />

focus of most trips to the west bank, with<br />

its tombs cut into the surrounding hillside.<br />

The paintings on the walls of these tombs<br />

seem as fresh as the day they were<br />

completed, yet they date back over<br />

3,000 years.<br />

Tomb reliefs, Valley of the Kings<br />

The gods Horus and Isis, Temple of Hathor, Dendera<br />

Elsewhere, the remains of massive funerary<br />

temples are found, though only a few remain.<br />

Those dedicated to Hatchepsut, Ramses II<br />

and Ramses III are the best preserved and<br />

a visit to the west bank would not be<br />

complete without including at least one of<br />

these. There are still more tombs to be<br />

seen, in the Valley of the Queens and the<br />

Tombs of the Nobles, with paintings that<br />

are equally as impressive as those in the<br />

Valley of the Kings.<br />

Detail from tomb, Valley of the Kings<br />

Hilton Luxor Resort & Spa<br />

HILTON LUXOR RESORT & SPA<br />

The Hilton is the most luxurious and<br />

contemporary hotel in the city, with majestic<br />

views over the Nile. It has one of the most<br />

impressive spa complexes in Egypt, with an<br />

amazing infinity pool and an incredible location<br />

right next to the Nile. Rooms are comfortable<br />

and spacious and for extra luxury you could<br />

choose to stay in one of the Spa Suites. You can<br />

enjoy a sundowner or a shisha pipe in real<br />

comfort, looking out over the Nile. The hotel<br />

is just a 15 minute walk from Karnak Temple,<br />

which you can visit at any time under your<br />

own steam.<br />

AL MOUDIRA, LUXOR<br />

On the outskirts of Gezira, a small village on the<br />

west bank at Luxor, Al Moudira is an oasis of<br />

calm away from the touts and trinket sellers of<br />

the town. Built by a Lebanese lady, it is one of<br />

the few hotels in Egypt with a truly Arab sense<br />

of style. Moorish arches and peaceful courtyards<br />

give the feel of an Ottoman palace, and the<br />

colours used are those found in the nearby<br />

tombs and temples. In the rooms, high ceilings<br />

and traditional designs and furniture complete<br />

the sense of a luxurious retreat after a busy<br />

day’s sightseeing.<br />

Sofitel Winter Palace, Luxor<br />

SOFITEL WINTER PALACE, LUXOR<br />

One of the most famous hotels in Egypt, the<br />

Winter Palace was built in the late 19th century<br />

to provide accommodation for visiting English<br />

nobility. It was here that Howard Carter was<br />

staying (courtesy of Lord Carnarvon) when he<br />

discovered Tutankhamun’s tomb. A building of<br />

real character, it occupies a prime location on the<br />

Nile Corniche in Luxor. The hotel was recently<br />

renovated and the 86 rooms have marvellous<br />

high ceilings and period furnishings. A grand place<br />

to stay when exploring the temples of Luxor.<br />

Al Moudira, Luxor<br />

Goddess of Hathor, Dendera<br />

Dendera & Abydos<br />

Dendera is just over 30 miles north of Luxor<br />

along the Nile valley, near the town of Qena.<br />

There was a temple here dating back at least to<br />

the time of Cheops and the Old Kingdom<br />

(around 2560 BC), although much of what you<br />

see today is Ptolemaic in origin (around 300 BC).<br />

The temple was dedicated to the worship of<br />

Hathor, the goddess of joy and love, equated<br />

with the Greek Aphrodite. The goddess takes on<br />

bovine form, a possible link to a time when the<br />

Sahara was fertile grazing ground. At Dendera this<br />

is best seen in the column capitals, sculpted to<br />

form the goddess’ head, complete with long<br />

cow’s ears. Nearby, the temple of Seti I at<br />

Abydos occupies an important place in the<br />

religious history of Pharaonic Egypt. By the end<br />

of the Old Kingdom its local god, Osiris, was the<br />

most prominent and popular of the Egyptian gods<br />

since he was the god of the afterlife. According to<br />

tradition, Osiris’ head was buried in Abydos.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 19


Feluccas on the Nile, Aswan<br />

Edfu Temple<br />

Between Luxor and Aswan lie a number of<br />

archaeological sites, one of the most important<br />

of which is Edfu Temple. On the site where,<br />

according to Ancient Egyptian legend, the god<br />

Horus defeated the god Seth, Ptolemy III<br />

Euergetes began construction of a temple<br />

dedicated to Horus. Six pharaohs later it was<br />

complete, the second largest temple in Ancient<br />

Egypt after Karnak.<br />

Kom Ombo Temple<br />

Another important site, Kom Ombo is a<br />

Ptolemaic temple. Unusually it is dedicated to two<br />

different gods: Sobek, god of the Nile, normally<br />

represented by a crocodile, and Haroeris who<br />

was an older manifestation of Horus. To reflect<br />

this dual dedication, the temple is essentially<br />

mirrored down a central line, with two entrances<br />

and perfectly symmetrical construction right down<br />

to the twin sanctuaries to the two gods.<br />

Temple of Horus, Edfu<br />

20<br />

Sofitel Legend Old Cateract, Aswan<br />

Aswan<br />

Aswan is easily the prettiest town in Egypt and<br />

although not as rich in sights as Luxor, still has<br />

the picture-perfect Temple of Philae and the<br />

monumental High Dam. Feluccas sail on the<br />

winding Nile, past rounded boulders and palmfringed<br />

islands. The steep western banks of the<br />

river lead into the desert, the horizon broken<br />

only by the faint outlines of the Monastery of<br />

St Simeon and the Aga Khan’s Mausoleum.<br />

The town has a large Nubian population, some<br />

of whom were displaced from their original<br />

homeland following the creation of Lake Nasser.<br />

Today they live in villages on the Nile islands and<br />

their heritage and culture are celebrated in the<br />

fantastic Nubian Museum, one of the best<br />

museums in Egypt.<br />

SOFITEL LEGEND OLD<br />

CATARACT, ASWAN<br />

The Old Cataract is one of the prettiest hotels<br />

in one of the most scenic locations in Egypt and,<br />

since being renovated, one of the most luxurious<br />

too. Seemingly cut off from the town of Aswan<br />

itself, it faces out over the Nile to Elephantine<br />

Island and the sands of the Sahara beyond. The<br />

hotel itself is over a century old and its 138<br />

rooms have a wonderful mix of Arabesque and<br />

Edwardian style, with horseshoe arches, marble<br />

floors and delicate wooden screens. The bar and<br />

restaurant at the front of the hotel are the best<br />

place from which to view an Aswan sunset.<br />

BASMA HOTEL, ASWAN<br />

Perched on Aswan’s highest hill, this four star<br />

complex commands a breathtaking view of the<br />

Nile River as it snakes through the picturesque<br />

town of Aswan. It offers great value for money<br />

and is a good hotel for a short stay in the town.<br />

The large pool and garden terrace are the perfect<br />

place to relax and enjoy the sunshine, while the<br />

210 rooms are comfortable and decorated with<br />

original artwork by local artists.


Nubian men at the market, Aswan<br />

Mövenpick, Aswan<br />

MÖVENPICK, ASWAN<br />

Perched in the middle of the Nile, the Mövenpick<br />

is a very pleasant place to stay, perfect for<br />

relaxation after a hard day’s sightseeing. Sitting on<br />

one of the islands in the river, it boasts excellent<br />

views and beautiful gardens. The refurbished<br />

rooms are very tastefully furnished and there are<br />

very good sports facilities. The swimming pool is<br />

without question Aswan’s finest.<br />

Aswan High Dam<br />

The Aswan High Dam was built in the 1960s<br />

with assistance from the Soviet Union, replacing<br />

an earlier British-built dam. It is a huge, impressive<br />

structure. From the top of the dam, the wall<br />

drops steeply to power stations and the valley<br />

floor below, whilst to the south Lake Nasser<br />

stretches away as far as the eye can see. Off to<br />

one side of the dam is a large monument,<br />

shaped like a lotus blossom, a memorial to<br />

Soviet-Egyptian co-operation. The High Dam has<br />

assured Egypt of the possibility of three harvests<br />

a year and reduced the likelihood of famine,<br />

but not without damage to the environment<br />

and the country’s cultural heritage. The lands of<br />

Nubia were all but entirely submerged following<br />

the creation of Lake Nasser, with the loss of<br />

entire villages.<br />

Relief at Kom Ombo<br />

Philae Temple<br />

As the water rose behind the original British-built<br />

Aswan Dam, the Temple of Philae became partly<br />

submerged for half of the year, and visitors passed<br />

through the halls and colonnades by boat. With<br />

the construction of the High Dam, it became<br />

apparent that the temple would be completely<br />

submerged, along with several other key Nubian<br />

monuments. Philae was consequently moved to<br />

an island, to preserve the special atmosphere of<br />

the temple. A centre for the cult of Isis, in Roman<br />

times worship of this cult spread far and wide in<br />

the Empire, and it was Christianity’s principal rival<br />

between the 3rd and the 5th centuries. Today,<br />

after a short boat ride, you disembark into a<br />

colonnaded courtyard which leads into the<br />

temple itself, flanked by wonderfully carved<br />

pylons. Adjacent is the Kiosk of Trajan, a small<br />

compact temple with delightfully carved columns.<br />

Coffee break, Nubian style<br />

Nubian Egypt<br />

Responsible for some of the world’s<br />

finest historical treasures, the Nubians<br />

were renowned for their wealth, culture<br />

and military might. A nomadic people<br />

of northern Sudan and southern Egypt,<br />

they developed one of the greatest<br />

civilisations in Africa and were much<br />

admired and respected by the Ancient<br />

Egyptians. Sadly, much of Nubia is now<br />

submerged under Lake Nasser, and<br />

whilst numerous temples were salvaged,<br />

the villages of the Nubians had to be<br />

abandoned, with inhabitants rehoused<br />

further north in and around Aswan.<br />

Nonetheless, there has been a revival<br />

of interest in Nubian culture and history,<br />

demonstrated by the wonderful Nubian<br />

Museum in Aswan.<br />

Kiosk of Trajan, Philae Temple<br />

www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 21


Nile Cruises<br />

Ruins on the banks of the Nile<br />

Cruising the Nile has long been seen as the<br />

most romantic way to visit the monuments of<br />

Ancient Egypt. Most Nile cruises today ply the<br />

waters between Luxor and Aswan, visiting the<br />

major sites at both towns and along the course<br />

of the river. The boats are essentially floating<br />

hotels and sightseeing is done in organised<br />

groups. There are a huge number of Nile cruise<br />

ships and given the relative scarcity of good<br />

hotels in the region, a Nile cruise is, for many<br />

people, the best way to see Upper Egypt.<br />

Routes<br />

Cruises take between three and seven nights<br />

to complete their itinerary. In general, the stops<br />

along the way are the same no matter which<br />

boat you choose and no matter which way you<br />

are travelling along the river. Visits will include<br />

places such as the Aswan High Dam, Philae<br />

Temple, Edfu and Kom Ombo Temples, the<br />

Valley of the Kings and Karnak Temple. Some of<br />

the longer itineraries may include Dendera and<br />

Abydos and some dahabiyyas (traditional style<br />

boats) stop at smaller sites and islands, where it<br />

is impossible for the large cruise boats to moor.<br />

View of Luxor from the Nile<br />

Boat captain, Steam Ship Sudan<br />

Life on board<br />

The boats that we use have spacious communal<br />

areas, including an upper deck where you can<br />

take full advantage of the Nile scenery.<br />

Comfortable seating or sunbeds adorn the<br />

decks. Some boats have a small plunge pool,<br />

providing the perfect opportunity to cool off.<br />

There is a bar or lounge, usually open in the<br />

evening and providing the perfect place to relax<br />

on comfortable sofas and enjoy a cocktail<br />

before dinner. The restaurants on board offer<br />

buffet-style or à la carte meals, with all cruises<br />

operating on a full board basis. All of the boats<br />

we offer have double or twin bed en suite<br />

cabins with panoramic windows. All the rooms<br />

are air-conditioned and may have additional<br />

benefits, such as a fridge, TV or balcony. The<br />

number of cabins depends on the boat that<br />

you choose and suites are available for extra<br />

space. Excursions are usually done in the<br />

mornings and afternoons, in groups of around<br />

15 people, with a qualified guide.<br />

Choosing a boat<br />

There is a huge range of choice when it<br />

comes to picking a Nile cruise, from the small<br />

dahabiyyas (traditional boats with just eight<br />

cabins each) offering long, unusual itineraries,<br />

to the grand luxury of the large cruise boats<br />

which provide suites for all their passengers.<br />

Boats with character are available, including a<br />

refurbished steamship, once in the possession<br />

of the Egyptian royal family, while other cruises<br />

have all sorts of facilities for a very comfortable<br />

stay, such as plunge pools, spa treatments and<br />

small gyms.<br />

22


Steam Ship Sudan<br />

Hadeel Dahabiyya<br />

Presidential Nile cruise ship<br />

STEAM SHIP SUDAN<br />

Built in 1885, for King Fouad, this steamship<br />

has had many eminent guests over the years.<br />

Agatha Christie was inspired to write Death on<br />

the Nile after travelling on the boat and decades<br />

later, the Steam Ship Sudan provided the set for<br />

many of the film’s scenes. With just 23 cabins,<br />

five of which are suites, there is a cosy, intimate<br />

air on board. The boat is propelled by a hybrid<br />

diesel/steam engine, resulting in a quieter and<br />

more energy-efficient journey. The Steam Ship<br />

Sudan offers three and four night itineraries.<br />

HADEEL DAHABIYYA<br />

The Hadeel is a Nile dahabiyya boat with only<br />

eight cabins, offering a combination of traditional<br />

style and modern luxury. The public areas evoke<br />

a colonial atmosphere with dark wood panelling<br />

and lavish furniture. Itineraries include additional<br />

visits not offered on other Nile programmes.<br />

The Hadeel can also moor on islands in the<br />

Nile for refreshments and relaxation, meaning<br />

it can offer a range of enjoyable extras to a<br />

typical Nile cruise. The seven night itineraries<br />

are extremely relaxing.<br />

PRESIDENTIAL NILE CRUISES<br />

The Presidential Nile cruise ships are among<br />

the larger boats travelling between Luxor and<br />

Aswan, often catering for slightly bigger groups<br />

than the smaller boats. Standards of comfort<br />

and service are good but not luxurious,<br />

however they are perfectly adequate and offer<br />

great value. The cabins are comfortable and<br />

spacious, and all are air-conditioned with a good<br />

sized window. Each boat has a sizeable sun deck<br />

with a small pool area. You can do three, four,<br />

six or seven night trips on the Presidential boats.<br />

Sanctuary M/S Nile Adventurer<br />

M/S Sonesta Star Goddess<br />

Mövenpick M/S Royal Lily<br />

SANCTUARY M/S NILE<br />

ADVENTURER<br />

With only 32 cabins, the Sanctuary M/S Nile<br />

Adventurer offers an extra sense of space which<br />

really contributes to the relaxing atmosphere on<br />

board. The boat was completely renovated in<br />

2009, and has all the comforts you would<br />

expect. The Nile Adventurer has private docking<br />

areas in Luxor and Aswan, meaning that the<br />

boat is not moored alongside other vessels.<br />

Itineraries are of three or four night duration.<br />

M/S SONESTA MOON AND<br />

STAR GODDESS<br />

The Moon and Star Goddess boats both offer<br />

excellent facilities and standards of service.<br />

The Star Goddess is a smaller, more modern<br />

boat with just 33 cabins, while the Moon<br />

Goddess offers a more traditional style, with<br />

39 cabins. Cabins on both are large and very<br />

comfortable, boasting a private balcony and<br />

large bathroom. Itineraries are of three or four<br />

night duration.<br />

MÖVENPICK M/S ROYAL LILY<br />

AND ROYAL LOTUS<br />

The Lily and Lotus were launched towards the<br />

end of 2007. There are 56 cabins and four<br />

suites, all with air-conditioning, TV and en suite<br />

bathrooms. The salon decks with panoramic<br />

windows are equipped with a lounge and bar,<br />

while the sun decks each have a swimming pool<br />

and heated whirlpool, as well as a canopied area<br />

for shelter. The Mövenpick boats offer trips of<br />

three and four night duration.<br />

Om Kolthoum Dahabiyya<br />

Oberoi Zahra<br />

M/S Tiyi<br />

OM KOLTHOUM DAHABIYYA<br />

Named after a famous Egyptian singer, the Om<br />

Kolthoum Dahabiyya offers eight comfortable,<br />

well-equipped cabins. There is a sun deck with<br />

a small Jacuzzi for relaxation and contemporary<br />

decor throughout. This is a good choice for<br />

those who prefer a more modern cruise.<br />

Itineraries are a relaxed seven nights.<br />

OBEROI ZAHRA<br />

The Oberoi Zahra sets the standards in luxury<br />

for those cruising the Nile. The 25 suites are<br />

tastefully appointed, their large windows offering<br />

panoramic views of the Nile. The restaurant<br />

offers a daily changing menu, while the spa<br />

opens regularly to leave its visitors pampered<br />

and relaxed. The seven night itinerary<br />

incorporates visits to all the major sites.<br />

M/S TUYA AND TIYI<br />

The M/S Tuya and Tiyi offer a great value way<br />

to see the Nile. There are 60 cabins on board,<br />

each of a decent size, and well equipped with<br />

all necessary amenities. There is a pool and<br />

Jacuzzi on the sun deck, perfect for relaxing<br />

in-between sightseeing. The Tuya and Tiyi each<br />

offer three and four night itineraries.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 23


Kiosk of Kertassi, Kalabsha Temple, Lake Nasser<br />

Lake Nasser<br />

Formed behind the massive High Dam at Aswan,<br />

Lake Nasser is the world’s largest reservoir,<br />

stretching almost 500 kilometres to the south.<br />

The ancient temples of Abu Simbel were<br />

famously moved, block-by-block, out of the<br />

reaches of the rising waters, as were many smaller<br />

examples now on the lake shore. Not as grand as<br />

the likes of Karnak, their setting is a large part of<br />

their appeal, framed by the shimmering lake and<br />

the vast desert beyond. Cruising here is one of<br />

the few hidden treasures left in Egypt – just a few<br />

boats sail the lake, so you can enjoy the stunning<br />

scenery in peace.<br />

Column at Kalabsha Temple, Lake Nasser<br />

Fishermen, Lake Nasser<br />

24<br />

M/S Kasr Ibrim<br />

M/S KASR IBRIM<br />

One of only eight boats cruising on Lake Nasser,<br />

the Kasr Ibrim is an art deco masterpiece,<br />

recreating the look of a 1920s paddle steamer.<br />

Curved wooden furniture, cream decor and<br />

period fittings complement a wonderful large sun<br />

deck, with a good sized pool and steps to<br />

different deck levels, including a large restaurant<br />

and bar deck. The cabins are not especially large<br />

but are extremely comfortable and well designed,<br />

with each boasting a private balcony. These<br />

touches are important, as there is plenty of time<br />

to relax and watch the scenery go by.


Entrance to Abu Simbel temple<br />

Sun deck, Mövenpick M/S Prince Abbas<br />

MÖVENPICK M/S PRINCE ABBAS<br />

The Mövenpick Prince Abbas has 65 tastefully<br />

decorated and spacious cabins and en suite<br />

modern bathrooms, offering guests every home<br />

comfort. Gym equipment, a refreshing plunge<br />

pool and a heated Jacuzzi are located on the<br />

spacious sun deck. The boat is a good value<br />

option on Lake Nasser and includes sightseeing of<br />

all the main temples along the banks of the lake.<br />

Abu Simbel<br />

The most famous of the rescued temples of Lake<br />

Nasser are those at Abu Simbel. They were built<br />

by Ramses the Great on the edge of his empire<br />

to impress his might and power upon all those<br />

entering Egypt. Huge statues of this pharaoh form<br />

the façade of the larger of the two temples and<br />

have become one of Egypt’s iconic images. If you<br />

have the time, one of the best ways to appreciate<br />

them is to arrive by boat on a Lake Nasser cruise.<br />

For those on a tighter schedule it is possible to<br />

visit as a day trip from Aswan, flying in and out<br />

for a tour of the temples.<br />

Nubian man, Abu Simbel<br />

Wadi El-Seboua, on the shores of Lake Nasser<br />

Cruising on Lake Nasser with Abu Simbel in the background<br />

www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 25


Fish and coral, Red Sea<br />

The Red Sea<br />

It is easy to incorporate a stay at the Red Sea<br />

into your Egyptian itinerary. This is a good way to<br />

unwind at the end of a long trip packed with<br />

sightseeing. From Luxor you can travel overland<br />

to the mainland Red Sea coast, or catch a flight<br />

to Sharm El Sheikh. There are miles of wonderful<br />

coastline, from the developed shores around<br />

Sharm El Sheikh to the exclusive resorts on the<br />

mainland coastline, north and south of Hurghada.<br />

As well as the chance to relax on a beach, time<br />

can also be spent snorkelling and diving on the<br />

spectacular coral reefs or exploring nearby sights.<br />

Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh, near Hurghada<br />

26<br />

Hurghada and El Quseir<br />

Hurghada and El Quseir are both within a few<br />

hours drive of each other on the western Red<br />

Sea coast. The reefs in this area are among the<br />

most pristine to be found in the Red Sea, some<br />

of them accessible from the shore, and ideal for<br />

snorkelling. Hurghada is a popular resort but has<br />

a few secluded accommodation options with<br />

private beaches. El Quseir is a smaller place,<br />

relatively unspoilt by tourism and retaining a<br />

charm all of its own. A refreshing alternative to<br />

some of Egypt’s more well known beach resorts,<br />

it is perfect for those who want to combine<br />

relaxation and tranquility with some of the best<br />

diving in the Red Sea.<br />

THE OBEROI SAHL HASHEESH,<br />

NEAR HURGHADA<br />

The Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh was the first luxury<br />

suite-only resort to open on the Red Sea coast.<br />

It is an exclusive and sophisticated haven, set on<br />

a private white sand beach with panoramic views<br />

of the sea. The 102 suites nestle in 20 hectares<br />

of perfectly maintained grounds, and the<br />

architectural style includes arches, domes and<br />

columns. Each suite has a private walled courtyard<br />

to guarantee privacy and peace, while upgrades<br />

are available for suites with their own pools.<br />

Dining and recreational facilities are superb and<br />

the service is impeccable. This is one of the best<br />

hotels in the country.<br />

Radisson Blu Resort, El Quseir<br />

RADISSON BLU RESORT,<br />

EL QUSEIR<br />

A good value choice in the El Quseir area, the<br />

Radisson Blu is built in a traditional style, reflecting<br />

local architectural methods and boasting some<br />

attractive interior design. From the two main à la<br />

carte restaurants to the sheesha bar and the<br />

striking lobby, a modern but authentic Middle<br />

Eastern look predominates, with stylish furnishings<br />

and numerous Moorish archways. All of the 250<br />

rooms are light and comfortable, with modern<br />

en suite bathrooms and a spacious veranda with<br />

views out to the Red Sea. It is not easy to swim<br />

direct from the beach due to the abundance of<br />

coral, so there is a jetty from which to enter the<br />

sea, where the snorkelling is excellent. As well<br />

as two large pools, the Radisson Blu has a<br />

wonderful Ayurvedic spa, including four beautiful<br />

massage rooms and a lovely relaxation area with<br />

a small pool.


Patterned door, El Quseir<br />

St Catherine’s Monastery<br />

Sharm El Sheikh<br />

For many years, Sharm El Sheikh, or just Sharm<br />

as it is more commonly known, has been a<br />

magnet for visitors seeking beaches and fantastic<br />

diving and snorkelling. As a result, the town itself<br />

is very much geared towards the mass market,<br />

with the full array of shops, restaurants and<br />

nightclubs. However, many of the hotels are<br />

self-contained resorts and you need never<br />

experience downtown Sharm should you not<br />

want to. Staying here gives you access to places<br />

of interest nearby, including Mount Sinai and<br />

St Catherine’s Monastery.<br />

FOUR SEASONS RESORT,<br />

SHARM EL SHEIKH<br />

Set amid lush landscaping and designed to<br />

resemble a hillside village, the Four Seasons<br />

Resort has beautiful courtyards and cooling<br />

swimming pools connected by shady paths.<br />

All 136 rooms are decorated in wonderful<br />

Arabesque style with superb furnishings, and<br />

many have views over the Red Sea. Guests can<br />

expect the high standards of service that are the<br />

hallmark of Four Seasons hotels, along with<br />

excellent recreational facilities. The location of<br />

the hotel is also perfect, within easy reach of the<br />

restaurants, shops and dive centres in the heart<br />

of Sharm, but far enough away to remain quiet<br />

and exclusive.<br />

Le Méridien Dahab Resort<br />

St Catherine’s Monastery<br />

and Mount Sinai<br />

At the heart of the Sinai Peninsula is Mount Sinai,<br />

where the Ten Commandments were revealed<br />

to Moses, overlooking the valley where he<br />

encountered the Burning Bush. On this site in<br />

337 AD, the Byzantine Empress Helena founded a<br />

monastery. The number of monks soon dwindled,<br />

until there was a timely boost when the remains<br />

of St Catherine, an early Christian martyr, were<br />

found nearby. Today the monastery is open to<br />

visitors who can admire the 6th century Church<br />

of St Catherine, the medieval monks’ quarters<br />

which are still used in the present day, and a<br />

shrub reputedly descended from the Burning<br />

Bush. Trekking up Mount Sinai is best done in the<br />

early hours of the morning, so that you can still<br />

get to the monastery during the morning opening<br />

times. You will also get wonderful views as the<br />

sun comes up over the Sinai mountains.<br />

Four Seasons Resort, Sharm El Sheikh<br />

Bedouin woman, Sinai Peninsula<br />

Dahab<br />

Dahab is one of the most relaxed towns in Egypt,<br />

and is easily accessed from Sharm El Sheikh<br />

airport. Located on the Red Sea coast, it is<br />

surrounded by mountains and stretches of beach.<br />

Wind and waves have drawn the windsurfing<br />

community here and they have perpetuated the<br />

laid-back atmosphere that grew in the town<br />

during the Sixties. A spell in Dahab offers the<br />

chance to unwind and get off the tourist trail a<br />

bit, whilst still being able to snorkel on the reefs<br />

and visit the inland sights of the Sinai Peninsula.<br />

LE MÉRIDIEN DAHAB RESORT<br />

Le Méridien Dahab Resort has 182 spacious<br />

guestrooms and suites, excellent facilities and<br />

spectacular sea views. The rooms have been<br />

carefully designed so that light fills the rooms in<br />

the mornings and the beds look directly out to<br />

the Red Sea. Particularly attractive are the infinity<br />

pool and the central areas of the hotel, which<br />

enjoy unbroken views over the water.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 27


Cairo<br />

Luxor<br />

Edfu<br />

Aswan<br />

Kom Ombo<br />

Kom Ombo<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Egypt specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 410<br />

Getting around<br />

Your trip to Egypt may include many types of<br />

transport. Private sightseeing and transfers will be<br />

in air-conditioned vehicles. For excursions in<br />

larger groups, such as those from Nile cruises,<br />

minibuses and coaches are used. A Nile cruise is<br />

a comfortable and convenient way to take in<br />

the sites along the Nile – see our guide on pages<br />

22-23. Given the size of the country, most<br />

people tend to take at least a couple of domestic<br />

flights as well.<br />

Islamic Cairo at night<br />

28<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Egypt is seen as a winter destination, with most<br />

visitors arriving between October and April.<br />

At this time of year, Cairo and Lower Egypt<br />

(the area towards the Mediterranean) are<br />

pleasantly cool, with average maximum<br />

temperatures in the low twenties Celsius. Upper<br />

Egypt, around Aswan and Luxor, tends to be a<br />

few degrees warmer, but still very pleasant.<br />

There may be some rain in Lower Egypt but it is<br />

light and sporadic. The summer season from May<br />

to September is hot, especially in Upper Egypt,<br />

where temperatures can hit 50C. The high<br />

temperatures are somewhat alleviated by very dry<br />

air and the air-conditioned vehicles and buildings.<br />

Combined with lower prices and far fewer<br />

visitors, this also makes summer a viable season<br />

for your trip – especially May and September,<br />

which are not nearly as hot as June, July and<br />

August. Please ask your specialist for further<br />

information about the best times to travel.<br />

Time difference: GMT+2 hour<br />

Flight time from UK: 5 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Egypt on our website, alternatively<br />

please call our specialists to discuss your plans.<br />

Highlights of Egypt<br />

A fabulous first trip to Egypt, this itinerary will<br />

introduce you to all the main highlights of the<br />

country, taking in Cairo, Aswan and Luxor and still<br />

including some relaxation time on your Nile cruise.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Fly from the UK and spend three<br />

nights in Cairo.<br />

Visit the pyramid fields of Giza,<br />

Saqqara and Dashur.<br />

Discover the mosques of Islamic<br />

Cairo before heading to the<br />

Egyptian Museum.<br />

Fly from Cairo to Luxor and board<br />

your Nile cruise. In the afternoon,<br />

visit the Karnak and Luxor Temples.<br />

Explore the Valley of the Kings and<br />

other sites on the west bank of the<br />

Nile. The boat then begins its cruise<br />

to the south.<br />

Visit Edfu Temple in the morning<br />

before the boat sails on to Kom<br />

Ombo, where you visit the Temple<br />

of Sobek and Haroeris.<br />

The boat moves on to Aswan, where<br />

you visit the Temple of Philae and<br />

the Aswan High Dam.<br />

Disembark the boat and fly from<br />

Aswan back to Cairo and from Cairo<br />

back to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

The itinerary can be extended with extra nights<br />

in Luxor and Aswan, so that you can explore<br />

the sites in more detail and include a trip to<br />

Abu Simbel.<br />

Abu Simbel


Suggested itineraries<br />

Alexandria<br />

El Alamein<br />

Alexandria<br />

Cairo<br />

Cairo<br />

Cairo<br />

Siwa<br />

Bahariya<br />

Farafra<br />

Hurghada<br />

Dakhla<br />

Kharga<br />

Luxor<br />

Edfu<br />

Luxor<br />

Kom Ombo<br />

Edfu<br />

Luxor<br />

Kom Ombo<br />

Aswan<br />

Aswan<br />

Abu Simbel<br />

The Desert Circuit<br />

This trip concentrates on some of Egypt’s lesserknown<br />

sites, the oases of the Western Desert.<br />

The circuit offers a compelling insight into life in<br />

this part of Egypt and provides a contrast to the<br />

Ancient Egyptian sites along the Nile.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Days 5-6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Fly from the UK to Cairo, where<br />

you spend two nights.<br />

Visit the pyramid complexes of Giza,<br />

Saqqara and Dashur.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Alexandria for a one<br />

night stay.<br />

Visit El Alamein on your way to Siwa,<br />

a long journey across the desert.<br />

Explore Siwa, Shali Fort, the salt lakes<br />

and hot springs around this oasis.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> from Siwa to Bahariya, passing<br />

through the Western Desert.<br />

Spend time in Bahariya before<br />

continuing to Farafra, passing through<br />

the area known as the White Desert.<br />

Continue to Dakhla, where you visit<br />

archaeological sites in the area.<br />

From Dakhla continue to Kharga, the<br />

last oasis in the desert circuit.<br />

Continue to Luxor, where you stay<br />

for three nights.<br />

Visit Karnak and Luxor Temples.<br />

Explore the sites of the west bank of<br />

the Nile, including the Valley of the<br />

Kings and Hatchepsut’s Temple.<br />

Fly from Luxor to Cairo and from<br />

Cairo to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

You could continue your exploration of Ancient<br />

Egypt by taking a Nile cruise from Luxor to Aswan,<br />

visiting more of the archaeological sites.<br />

Grand Tour of Egypt<br />

Combining a Nile cruise and a Lake Nasser cruise<br />

gives you plenty of scope to explore all the<br />

Ancient Egyptian sites as well as time to relax.<br />

The days in Cairo and Alexandria will introduce<br />

you to these great cities, with their interesting<br />

pasts and fascinating presents.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Fly from the UK to Cairo, where<br />

you spend four nights.<br />

Explore the pyramid fields of Giza,<br />

Saqqara and Dashur.<br />

Visit the Egyptian Museum and<br />

Islamic Cairo.<br />

Explore Coptic Cairo with your<br />

tour guide.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Alexandria, where you<br />

spend two nights.<br />

Spend the day visiting the sights<br />

of Alexandria.<br />

Return to Cairo and fly to Luxor,<br />

where you join your Nile cruise.<br />

Visit Karnak and Luxor Temples.<br />

Tour the West Bank, including the<br />

Valley of the Kings.<br />

Visit the Temple of Horus in Edfu.<br />

Continue to Kom Ombo and visit<br />

the Temple of Sobek and Haroeris.<br />

Sail to Aswan.<br />

Visit the Temple of Philae and the<br />

Aswan High Dam.<br />

Join your Lake Nasser cruise and visit<br />

Kalabsha Temple.<br />

Full day of cruising to Wadi El<br />

Seboua.<br />

Visit lakeside temples and cross the<br />

Tropic of Cancer.<br />

Sail to Abu Simbel and visit the<br />

temples there.<br />

Pyramids, Nile and Beach<br />

This itinerary offers a great introduction to Egypt,<br />

going to all the major archaeological sites and the<br />

bustling capital, Cairo. At the end of the trip you<br />

have the opportunity to relax beside the Red Sea.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Days 9-10<br />

Day 11<br />

Fly from the UK to Cairo, where you<br />

spend three nights.<br />

Visit the pyramids of Giza, Dashur<br />

and Saqqara.<br />

Explore the packed galleries of the<br />

Egyptian Museum in central Cairo.<br />

Fly from Cairo to Aswan.<br />

Visit the Temple of Philae and the<br />

Aswan High Dam.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> from Aswan to Luxor,<br />

stopping to visit the temples of Kom<br />

Ombo and Edfu on your way.<br />

Visit the sites of the west bank of the<br />

Nile, such as the Valley of the Kings<br />

and Hatchepsut’s Temple.<br />

Explore the temples of Luxor and<br />

Karnak, before travelling to the Red<br />

Sea coast.<br />

Spend your time snorkelling and<br />

relaxing by the sea.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> from your Red Sea hotel to<br />

the airport, from where you fly to<br />

Cairo. From Cairo fly back to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

The trip could be extended with extra nights in<br />

Aswan and Luxor, so that you can include more<br />

of the Ancient Egyptian sites, or with extra nights<br />

at the Red Sea if you wish to spend more time<br />

snorkelling and diving on the coral reefs.<br />

Day 15<br />

Day 16<br />

Day 17<br />

Disembark the cruise and fly from<br />

Abu Simbel to Aswan.<br />

A day to explore Aswan or relax at<br />

your hotel.<br />

Fly from Aswan to Cairo and from<br />

Cairo to the UK.<br />

Feluccas on the Nile, near Luxor<br />

www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 29


Jordan<br />

The rose city of Petra has drawn<br />

visitors to Jordan ever since its secret<br />

location was discovered. It is rightfully<br />

considered to be one of the ‘must-see’ sites of<br />

the region, if not the world. The country is<br />

a microcosm of Middle Eastern history.<br />

The Nabateans, biblical characters, Greek<br />

and Roman city-builders, Arab invaders<br />

and Crusader armies have all played out<br />

their roles across a dramatic landscape of<br />

red sandstone canyons, desert expanses and<br />

salt-laden waters. Each has left their mark<br />

in churches bursting with mosaics,<br />

colonnaded streets and fortresses which still<br />

seem impregnable today. More recently,<br />

great efforts by the Royal Society for the<br />

Conservation of Nature (RSCN) have<br />

created beautiful reserves. These are home<br />

to rare fauna such as the Arabian oryx,<br />

and stunning scenery, which can be<br />

explored by following one of the many<br />

hiking trails. In the Dead Sea, the Gulf of<br />

Aqaba and the natural hot springs of Ma’in,<br />

Jordan has three great destinations for<br />

unwinding at the end of a trip, whether<br />

you want to relax in a spa or to dive the<br />

reefs of the Red Sea.<br />

30


<strong>Audley</strong> in Jordan<br />

4<br />

1<br />

5<br />

2<br />

Jordan is a wonderfully varied destination,<br />

offering a comfortable introduction to the<br />

Middle East region. The geography of the<br />

country is such that all the sights combine<br />

easily into logical itineraries, making Jordan a<br />

simple place to visit. It is possible to spend<br />

a week focussing on Petra and the key<br />

highlights, or to take a longer trip to include<br />

all the major archaeological sites, spending<br />

time walking in the nature reserves and<br />

leaving a few days to unwind at Aqaba, on<br />

the Red Sea or by the Dead Sea. We use<br />

private drivers who will usually accompany<br />

you throughout the trip, and local guides at<br />

Petra and Jerash. There are good transport<br />

links with Egypt, Lebanon, Syria and Jerusalem<br />

if you wish to extend your trip further into<br />

the region.<br />

Accommodation<br />

1 Petra<br />

Without doubt the main draw<br />

for visitors to Jordan, Petra has<br />

the power to astound with the<br />

majesty of its monuments and<br />

the natural beauty of its<br />

surroundings.<br />

3<br />

4 The Dead Sea<br />

The Dead Sea offers the<br />

opportunity for relaxation at the<br />

end of a Jordan trip, as well as<br />

the novelty of floating in the<br />

salty water.<br />

5 Crusade-era castles<br />

Ajloun, Kerak and Shawbak<br />

are dotted across the Jordanian<br />

landscape, testament to it’s<br />

Crusader history.<br />

Jerash’s oval plaza<br />

Jordan’s nature reserves<br />

The reserves established by<br />

the Royal Society for the<br />

Conservation of Nature provide<br />

protection for endangered flora<br />

and fauna, as well as a livelihood<br />

for local communities.<br />

With one or two exceptions, there is little<br />

in the way of traditional, characterful<br />

accommodation in Jordan. Most of the<br />

hotels we use are part of international chains,<br />

which deliver good comfort and service, if in<br />

a somewhat uniform style. Most of these<br />

hotels have made at least some efforts to<br />

reflect local design, although in a modern<br />

setting. When visiting the nature reserves,<br />

accommodation varies in style and size but<br />

tends to be quite basic. Some of the reserves<br />

have chalet rooms, others have tented camps<br />

and one has both a simple guesthouse and<br />

an ecolodge. In all instances, the food at the<br />

reserves is locally sourced and freshly<br />

prepared, and employees are all from the<br />

local villages and towns.<br />

The Dead Sea<br />

Find out more<br />

2 Jerash<br />

A Roman town to the north of<br />

the capital, Jerash’s oval plaza<br />

sets the site apart from other<br />

Roman ruins in the region.<br />

3 Wadi Rum<br />

One of the Middle East’s most<br />

spectacular landscapes, Wadi<br />

Rum is a desert of red sand,<br />

punctuated by weathered<br />

rock formations.<br />

Wadi Rum<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Jordan, please<br />

see pages 44-45.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Jordan<br />

specialists 01993 838 415<br />

Jordan 31


Roman Theatre, Amman<br />

Amman<br />

Jordan’s capital is a bustling, modern city, originally<br />

set on seven hills. Many of its buildings are only a<br />

few decades old, with some exceptions dating<br />

from the 1920s to the 1940s, demonstrating the<br />

styles which were in vogue during the mandate<br />

era. Some remnants of older history are still<br />

visible, such as the Roman theatre around which<br />

the downtown area grew. On a hill is the Citadel,<br />

along with a patchwork of Roman, Byzantine and<br />

Umayyad ruins. The Citadel is also the home of<br />

the Jordanian Archaeological Museum. This has<br />

displays about the Dead Sea Scrolls and other<br />

finds, some dating to prehistory, though many<br />

have been relocated to the new Jordan Museum<br />

in downtown Amman. Other museums and<br />

galleries abound, including the Royal Automobile<br />

Museum, established by King Abdullah II.<br />

Amman Citadel<br />

Four Seasons Hotel, Amman<br />

32<br />

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL, AMMAN<br />

Located in the upmarket diplomatic district of<br />

Amman, the Four Seasons has brought its high<br />

standard of exclusive, luxury accommodation to<br />

the capital. The 192 rooms and suites blend<br />

classic and contemporary design, with dark woods<br />

and rich fabrics. Local flavour is introduced in the<br />

Seasons restaurant and the hotel also has Italian<br />

and Asian restaurants as well as several bars.<br />

AL QASR METROPOLE, AMMAN<br />

This hotel has a good location in the Shmeissani<br />

district of Amman, and offers a comfortable,<br />

practical and inexpensive place to stay. The 66<br />

rooms are subtly decorated yet have all the<br />

amenities you would need during a short stay in<br />

the capital. What makes the hotel a strong option<br />

for those who visit is its excellent Vinaigrette<br />

restaurant on the top floor, serving Amman’s<br />

best sushi, and the Trattoria, which offers a<br />

generous breakfast.


Ajloun Castle<br />

Chariot driver taking part in re-enactment, Jerash<br />

Oval Plaza, Jerash<br />

KEMPINSKI AMMAN, AMMAN<br />

One of the newest hotels in Amman, the<br />

Kempinski has a very striking, modern design,<br />

with a curved sandstone and glass exterior. The<br />

rooms are furnished in a contemporary European<br />

style, with bathrooms finished in marble. The<br />

array of facilities available at the Kempinski is<br />

superb. There are four different restaurants,<br />

plus an entertainment centre, as well as a spa<br />

and gym.<br />

Mosaic, Jerash<br />

Jerash and the north<br />

Jerash was a member of the Decapolis, a Graeco-<br />

Roman confederation of the ten leading cities in<br />

an area now straddling Jordan and Syria. Today it<br />

is one of the best-preserved classical cities in the<br />

region. A colonnaded oval plaza is the highlight of<br />

the site, but there are also a theatre and Roman<br />

streets to be seen. There are daily chariot race<br />

re-enactments, which can be great fun for families.<br />

In the very north of Jordan you will find the site<br />

of Umm Qais, another of the Decapolis cities.<br />

Although smaller than Jerash, it has a very<br />

atmospheric setting looking over the Sea of<br />

Galilee and the Jordan Valley. The north of Jordan<br />

as a whole is very pretty, and with significant<br />

rainfall in the winter and spring, the countryside<br />

blooms with lush grassland and spring flowers.<br />

Ajloun Castle<br />

Ajloun Castle has a commanding position<br />

overlooking the nearby town. The castle is<br />

remarkably well preserved and demonstrates<br />

Islamic military architecture at its best. Built during<br />

the 12th and 13th centuries, it was an important<br />

staging post on the road between Damascus and<br />

Cairo. The castle once had seven towers and a<br />

15 metre deep moat, and is a maze of interlinking<br />

rooms and tunnels that are interesting to explore.<br />

There are also fabulous views from here over the<br />

surrounding countryside.<br />

Columns, Jerash<br />

Qasr Azraq<br />

The Desert Castles<br />

Heading east from Amman into the desert,<br />

you come to a series of fortified buildings, most<br />

of which were actually Umayyad hunting lodges.<br />

These buildings date to the 7th and 8th centuries<br />

AD, but some of the foundations have Roman<br />

origins. The ‘castles’ can easily be visited from<br />

Amman during an afternoon, or you could take<br />

the whole day and spend some time in Jordan’s<br />

nature reserves. The two most popular castles<br />

are Qasr Al-Amra and Qasr Azraq. Amra is an<br />

Umayyad bathhouse, once part of a much larger<br />

complex, and has beautiful frescoes which,<br />

unusually for an Islamic building, show the human<br />

form. Azraq, originally a fort on the old Roman<br />

border, was later used by the Byzantines and<br />

then by a succession of Islamic dynasties, and<br />

finally by Lawrence of Arabia, who made this<br />

his headquarters.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/jordan ● 01993 838 415 ● Jordan 33


The Kings’ Highway<br />

For centuries the Kings’ Highway was the<br />

principal route for traders travelling between<br />

Arabia and the Levant. It hugs the edge of the<br />

Great Rift Valley, with the Dead Sea filling the<br />

bottom of this huge split in the earth. The<br />

highway crosses countless river beds and the<br />

availability of water made this a key trade route.<br />

These days, most heavy traffic takes the Desert<br />

Highway, leaving the winding switchbacks,<br />

dramatic vistas, castles and churches to the<br />

intrepid visitor. Some of the sights of the Kings’<br />

Highway can be visited on a drive between<br />

Amman and Petra but a return journey on the<br />

same route may be necessary to visit them all.<br />

Kings’ Highway at Wadi Mujib<br />

Mount Nebo<br />

Said to be the spot from which Moses viewed<br />

the Holy Land and where tradition has it he<br />

was later buried, Mount Nebo is an important<br />

place for Christian pilgrimage. A church has<br />

existed on this site since 393 AD and although<br />

it has been much altered and restored since<br />

then, it still houses some mosaics which are<br />

around 1,500 years old. Mount Nebo is the<br />

perfect place to stop on the Kings’ Highway for<br />

a view over the Holy Land. On clear days, the<br />

towns of Jericho and Jerusalem can be made<br />

out in the distance, across the Jordan Valley<br />

and the Dead Sea.<br />

Holy Land mosaic, Madaba<br />

Mount Nebo<br />

Madaba<br />

Madaba, a town at the northern end of the<br />

Kings’ Highway, has a strong Christian heritage,<br />

with numerous churches dotted around its<br />

quiet, charming streets. The town is best known<br />

for the fine examples of Byzantine-era mosaics,<br />

the most famous of which is a map from the<br />

6th century depicting the Holy Land. It is easily<br />

explored on a walking tour, taking in all the<br />

churches and the archaeological park, which is<br />

an open-air museum.<br />

Mukawir<br />

A short drive off the Kings’ Highway, on a lonely<br />

pinnacle overlooking the Dead Sea, is the castle<br />

of Mukawir. It was the site of Herod’s Palace,<br />

where Salome asked for the head of John the<br />

Baptist as a reward for her dancing, and also a<br />

centre of resistance to Rome during the First<br />

Jewish Revolt. After the steep climb up to the<br />

castle you are rewarded with fantastic views<br />

over the surrounding hills. The outline of the<br />

camps and even the siege ramp built by the<br />

Romans to capture Mukawir can still be seen.<br />

34


Jordanian man by the Kings’ Highway<br />

Kerak Castle<br />

As you approach Kerack Castle, which towers<br />

over the modern town, it is immediately<br />

obvious why all the powers involved in the<br />

Crusades wanted control of this bastion. Kerak<br />

was established in the 12th century and<br />

remained in Crusader hands for just forty years.<br />

Its already excellent defensive features were<br />

further refined by the Mamluks, with the<br />

addition of a lower courtyard and a deeper<br />

moat. The castle is certainly a highlight of a trip<br />

along the Kings’ Highway with a number of<br />

interior halls and chambers to explore.<br />

Shobak Castle<br />

Shawbak Castle<br />

With fewer visitors than Kerak and still in need<br />

of restoration, Shawbak is in some ways a<br />

more rewarding stop on the Kings’ Highway. It<br />

is more of an adventure to explore, wandering<br />

around ornately decorated towers, past<br />

crumbling churches and underneath vaulted<br />

passageways. The truly intrepid, equipped with<br />

a torch, might care to descend the 350 steps<br />

under the castle to the well that allowed the<br />

Crusaders to hold out for two years before it<br />

fell to Saladin in 1189 AD.<br />

Kerak Castle<br />

Lot’s Cave<br />

Another site of biblical renown, Lot’s Cave is<br />

where the prophet reputedly sheltered following<br />

the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah.<br />

Found at the southern end of the Dead Sea,<br />

the artefacts recovered from the site are linked<br />

to various different periods of history and the<br />

site itself is worth a visit for its dramatic location.<br />

Accessed by 300 steps, the cave is protected<br />

by the remains of a church, which houses five<br />

restored mosaics dating to the 6th century AD.<br />

It was originally designed so that Jewish and<br />

Muslim pilgrims could also enter the cave<br />

without needing to pass through the church<br />

threshold. The views over the town, the<br />

surrounding countryside and to the Dead Sea<br />

are breathtaking from here.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/jordan ● 01993 838 415 ● Jordan 35


The Treasury at night, Petra<br />

Petra<br />

No matter how many times you have seen<br />

Petra on television or in films, nothing prepares<br />

you for the first time you exit the tiny cleft of<br />

the Siq, the narrow canyon leading into the city,<br />

to be confronted by the enormous splendour<br />

of the Treasury Tomb. Built by the Nabateans,<br />

who grew rich through their control of the<br />

frankincense trade routes through Arabia,<br />

Petra fell into obscurity about 1,000 years ago,<br />

with its existence and location kept a closelyguarded<br />

secret by the local Bedouin. In 1812,<br />

Johann Ludwig Burckhardt tricked his way into<br />

the site, paving the way for generations of<br />

awestruck visitors.<br />

The Monastery, Petra<br />

36<br />

Visiting the site<br />

Petra merits two full days (and a three night<br />

stay), to give you enough time to see the<br />

central areas of the site and also explore<br />

some of the more remote areas such as the<br />

Monastery, the High Place of Sacrifice and<br />

Aaron’s Tomb. If you are short on time, you<br />

could stay just two nights in Petra, with one<br />

full and long day to be spent in the site,<br />

although it is possible that you will be so<br />

entranced that you will want to return for a<br />

second visit in the future. Petra Archaeological<br />

Park is spread over 264 square kilometres, so<br />

there is a fair amount of walking to be done<br />

and you will need to pack sturdy walking<br />

shoes and take plenty of water with you.<br />

There is no particularly quiet time of year or<br />

day to visit Petra. The site attracts thousands<br />

of visitors each year and is busy even in the<br />

summer months, which are extremely hot in<br />

Jordan. By starting early in the day, or taking<br />

an alternative route into the site, we can help<br />

you avoid the largest of the crowds.<br />

The Treasury and the Monastery<br />

The Treasury and the Monastery are two<br />

of Petra’s most iconic structures. The Treasury<br />

is the first monument that you encounter<br />

having passed along the Siq, a winding,<br />

The High Place of Sacrifice, Petra<br />

narrow gorge which forms the gateway to<br />

the site. What is remarkable about the<br />

Treasury is that it was created in situ, its<br />

towering structure hewn from the sandstone<br />

rock, and therefore required no support or<br />

foundations. The carvings on the Treasury’s<br />

façade show Nabatean, Greek and Egyptian<br />

gods, as well as lions and eagles. The building<br />

is thought to date to the 1st century BC.<br />

The Monastery lies at the other end of the<br />

site. Although less ornate than the Treasury,<br />

its location in a relatively quiet part of Petra<br />

and the spectacular views make the long<br />

walk up here well worth the effort. You can<br />

actually walk right up above the Monastery<br />

for an even closer look at the urn carving<br />

which marks the top of the structure, but<br />

this is only advised for those who have a<br />

head for heights.


Learning to cook Jordanian style, Petra kitchen<br />

<strong>Travel</strong>ling along the Siq near the Treasury, Petra<br />

PETRA MARRIOTT, PETRA<br />

Located a few kilometres away from Petra, the<br />

Marriott occupies an enviable spot overlooking<br />

the vast canyons that carve through the local<br />

sandstone. The rooms are modern and<br />

comfortable and the hotel features three<br />

restaurants offering different cuisines. The biggest<br />

draw of the hotel is the amazing view out<br />

towards Petra, which is very hard to beat.<br />

BEIT ZAMAN, PETRA<br />

Situated two kilometres from Petra in the<br />

neighbouring village of Wadi Musa, Beit Zaman<br />

offers good value. It is a carefully restored 19thcentury<br />

village designed to afford guests a high<br />

level of comfort after a busy day’s sightseeing.<br />

The very nature of the hotel's history means that<br />

it abounds with character. Each of the 129 rooms<br />

and suites possess much of the original stonework,<br />

while modern touches give them a comfortable<br />

finish. The open areas are extremely pleasant, the<br />

highlight of which is a covered swimming pool.<br />

Petra Marriott Hotel, Petra<br />

MÖVENPICK RESORT, PETRA<br />

Located about one minute’s walk from the<br />

entrance to Petra, the Mövenpick is built in the<br />

Islamic style, featuring arches, intricate tile-work<br />

and delicate wooden mashrabiya screens. The<br />

rooms are more modern and European in style,<br />

but are quite large and offer great comfort. A<br />

wonderful roof garden provides the perfect place<br />

to watch the sun set over the sandstone hills.<br />

Little Petra<br />

Little Petra<br />

Siq al-Barid, or Little Petra as it has become<br />

known, is on the edge of the main site. Although<br />

the Nabatean buildings, which have been carved<br />

into the rock, are a little smaller and less<br />

impressive than those in Petra proper, the site<br />

has a certain charm for its peacefulness, as not so<br />

many visitors venture here. The site is also more<br />

concentrated with very few gaps in between the<br />

various monuments, dwellings, meeting rooms<br />

and tombs. Little Petra also offers an alternative<br />

way into the main site if you want a more active,<br />

adventurous route.<br />

Petra Kitchen<br />

Petra Kitchen is a fun and interesting way to<br />

spend one of your evenings in Petra, giving you<br />

the opportunity to learn to cook Jordanian dishes<br />

and more importantly perhaps, to meet local<br />

people. Over the course of a couple of hours you<br />

will be taught by local cooks and will prepare a<br />

traditional meal, which is of course yours to eat<br />

later in the evening. You’ll also be given a booklet<br />

of Jordanian recipes so you can recreate your<br />

favourite dishes at home.<br />

Beit Zaman, Petra<br />

Mövenpick Resort, Petra<br />

www.audleytravel.com/jordan ● 01993 838 415 ● Jordan 37


Wadi Rum<br />

Wadi Rum<br />

Traders crossed this remarkable ancient landscape<br />

long before modern visitors such as Lawrence of<br />

Arabia. Wadi Rum is one of the region’s most<br />

picturesque desert landscapes, unique for its red<br />

sandstone geology. Rocky outcrops tower over<br />

the surrounding desert, and more unusual<br />

geological features are not hard to find, including<br />

several rock bridges, weathered into their form<br />

over the centuries. In the canyons, which provide<br />

some respite from the powerful sun, you will find<br />

inscriptions and carvings by the Thamudic people,<br />

who came to Wadi Rum from Arabia in the first<br />

millennium BC. Staying a night in Wadi Rum is a<br />

special experience. Isolated from the lights and<br />

noise of civilisation, it is the perfect place to<br />

unwind and take in the star-filled desert skies.<br />

WADI RUM CAMP, WADI RUM<br />

This small camps offers a more intimate<br />

alternative to the larger camps in the area. The<br />

tents are pitched and taken down as required,<br />

with a maximum of six tents on any one night.<br />

There are fixed, shared bathroom facilities, with<br />

solar panels providing the power for hot water<br />

showers. In the evenings a spread of traditional<br />

Bedouin dishes are prepared for you.<br />

The Bedouin &<br />

Lawrence of Arabia<br />

The Bedouin are an Arab people, traditionally<br />

nomadic or semi-nomadic communities who<br />

live in the deserts of the Middle East. Though<br />

most Bedouin have now abandoned their<br />

nomadic lifestyles, there are still some tribes<br />

which cling to their traditions in the region,<br />

and live in black goat-hair tents in places like<br />

Wadi Rum. Tribes continue to play an<br />

important role in society, and in Wadi Rum<br />

the major tribe is the Huweitat, who claim<br />

descent from the Prophet Mohammed.<br />

There are also a couple of other smaller<br />

clans, who came originally from the Arabian<br />

Peninsula. The links between Wadi Rum<br />

and Lawrence of Arabia are somewhat<br />

exaggerated these days for the purposes of<br />

tourism, but the tribes of this area did play<br />

an important role in the Arab Revolt against<br />

the Ottoman Empire of 1917, a role which<br />

continues to be a source of great pride for<br />

today’s Bedouin. There are sites within Wadi<br />

Rum which Lawrence definitely did visit and<br />

for more information about his experiences<br />

in the area we would recommend reading<br />

his autobiographical account, Seven Pillars<br />

of Wisdom.<br />

Camp, Wadi Rum<br />

Wadi Rum<br />

38


Jordan’s nature reserves<br />

Wadi Dana<br />

The Royal Society for the Conservation of<br />

Nature (RSCN) was founded in 1966,<br />

with its main aim being to protect Jordan’s<br />

natural heritage. The organisation now has a<br />

wide-ranging remit and focuses not only on<br />

the preservation of the country’s nature and<br />

landscapes, but also on the socio-economic<br />

development of rural communities.<br />

The RSCN has established six nature reserves,<br />

at Dana, Mujib, Ajloun, Dibeen, Shaumari and<br />

Azraq, all with different landscapes, wildlife<br />

and geology – four of them are described in<br />

detail here. It is possible to stay at the reserves<br />

and enjoy activities such as walking and<br />

birdwatching. To put their work into context,<br />

the RSCN has also created two visitor centres,<br />

one near the Dead Sea (the Dead Sea<br />

Panoramic Complex) and one in Amman<br />

(the Wild Jordan Centre).<br />

The nature reserves<br />

Shaumari Wildlife Reserve<br />

This reserve was created to provide a<br />

protected area for the Arabian oryx, a white<br />

antelope, which is one of the most<br />

endangered animals in the world. It became<br />

extinct in the wild in the early 1970s but<br />

thanks to the breeding programme at<br />

Shaumari and other reserves in the Arab<br />

World, the global population is now estimated<br />

at about 7,000. Visitors to the reserve may<br />

also spot other desert animals such as gazelles,<br />

ostrich and Persian onagers.<br />

Ajloun Forest Reserve<br />

In existence since 1988, Ajloun Forest<br />

Reserve is located in northwest Jordan and<br />

has 13 square kilometres of open woodland.<br />

Common trees in the forest include<br />

evergreen oak, pine, carob, wild strawberry<br />

and wild pistachio, an impressive biodiversity<br />

which the reserve aims to preserve. In spring,<br />

the forest floor is carpeted with flowers,<br />

including rare and beautiful orchids, anemones<br />

and rock roses.<br />

Azraq Wetland Reserve<br />

The Azraq Wetlands are located to the east<br />

of Amman. Threatened by the delicate state<br />

of the water supply in the region, the wetlands<br />

have reduced in size since the establishment of<br />

the reserve in 1978, with the water now being<br />

supplied artificially. The reserve is a good spot<br />

for birdwatching, especially for migratory<br />

species, which have returned in recent years<br />

and include the hoopoe lark, Cetti’s warbler,<br />

the desert finch and the marsh harrier.<br />

Arabian oryx<br />

Dana Nature Reserve<br />

Dana Nature Reserve covers a system of<br />

wadis running down to Wadi Araba just north<br />

of Petra, and is home to wildlife, awe-inspiring<br />

landscapes, and thousands of years of history.<br />

Best explored on foot, there are a series of<br />

trails - some guided, some self-guided - which<br />

take in a variety of sights from canyon scenery<br />

to local villages and ancient copper mines.<br />

DANA GUESTHOUSE,<br />

DANA NATURE RESERVE<br />

Dana Guesthouse is one of two<br />

accommodation options within Dana Nature<br />

Reserve. With just nine rooms, this is simple<br />

accommodation, but the surroundings more<br />

than make up for this. The guesthouse looks<br />

over Wadi Dana, with spectacular views at<br />

sunset while the whole setting, in the midst of<br />

the Jordanian countryside, is extremely tranquil.<br />

FEYNAN ECOLODGE, DANA<br />

NATURE RESERVE<br />

Feynan Ecolodge, at the opposite end of the<br />

reserve, is a unique place to stay in Jordan, built<br />

in harmony with its surroundings and respecting<br />

the environment in general. Wonderfully<br />

remote and set amidst stark, rocky desert, the<br />

lodge has comfortable, spacious rooms and is<br />

cleverly designed to avoid impacting the<br />

ecology of the area. All materials used are<br />

locally sourced and power is generated by solar<br />

energy. In the evenings, the lodge is lit by<br />

candles and has a special atmosphere.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/jordan ● 01993 838 415 ● Jordan 39


Japanese Garden Beach, Tala Bay, Aqaba<br />

MÖVENPICK TALA BAY, AQABA<br />

Around 15 minutes by car from the centre of<br />

Aqaba, the Mövenpick Tala Bay offers good value<br />

and benefits from a great location on the beach.<br />

The hotel is less busy than those in the centre of<br />

the town, and offers better value. The rooms and<br />

public areas feel bright, modern and airy. With a<br />

number of pools, a decent beach and a wide<br />

range of restaurants and cafés to choose from,<br />

the Mövenpick is perfect for those wishing to<br />

relax after sightseeing or to explore Jordan’s<br />

Red Sea reefs.<br />

Herbs and spices for sale in Aqaba<br />

Mövenpick Tala Bay, Aqaba<br />

Aqaba and the Red Sea<br />

Aqaba’s principal draws are the snorkelling and<br />

diving on the Red Sea reefs and the warm<br />

temperatures during the autumn, winter and<br />

spring, compared to the rest of the country.<br />

As Jordan’s only port and the only resort area<br />

on the coast, it is very popular and can be very<br />

busy throughout the year. The hotels often host<br />

weddings, which give an insight into local<br />

traditions but can also be quite noisy affairs. If you<br />

wish to dive then this is the place to come, with<br />

the Tala Bay resort area offering a slightly quieter<br />

option to the central hotels.<br />

40<br />

Common lionfish, the Red Sea<br />

Kempinski Hotel, Aqaba<br />

KEMPINSKI AQABA<br />

Close to the centre of Aqaba, the Kempinski also<br />

has an attractive location on the beach. All rooms<br />

face the sea and have an elegant minimalist style.<br />

The Kempinski has a pool, access to a beach and<br />

a range of dining options, including a good<br />

seafood restaurant. It is an excellent choice for<br />

those wanting to relax by the sea after a busy<br />

trip in Jordan, but still be within reach of the<br />

town of Aqaba.


Greek Orthodox Church, Bethany Beyond the Jordan<br />

The Dead Sea<br />

Dead Sea salt Mövenpick Resort & Spa, The Dead Sea Evason Ma’in Hot Springs<br />

The Dead Sea<br />

For millennia, people have been coming to the<br />

Dead Sea, drawn by the medicinal qualities of<br />

the mineral-laden waters. The sea is also eerily<br />

beautiful, with crystalline formations on the<br />

shoreline surrounded by harsh, unforgiving cliffs.<br />

The lowest point on earth at 420 metres below<br />

sea level, temperatures and the humidity are<br />

always higher at the Dead Sea than elsewhere<br />

in Jordan. Swimming, or rather floating in the<br />

Dead Sea is a novel experience, with its sense<br />

of weightlessness. Up in the hills above the<br />

coast you will find the Dead Sea Panorama<br />

Complex, a museum administered by the RSCN,<br />

which has excellent information on the history<br />

and ecology of the Dead Sea, as well as the<br />

impact of human activity here. Nearby there are<br />

also lots of natural springs, such as Ma’in, offering<br />

further opportunities for relaxation and<br />

alternative therapies.<br />

THE MÖVENPICK RESORT & SPA,<br />

THE DEAD SEA<br />

Located on the shores of the Dead Sea, the<br />

resort is styled as a Middle-Eastern village, running<br />

down a green valley to a swimming pool and<br />

therapy centre. The 346 rooms are luxuriously<br />

furnished, and many look out over the small<br />

stream that runs through the resort. A sandy<br />

beach forms one side of the large, infinity<br />

swimming pool, and the view stretches<br />

uninterrupted across the glassy surface of the<br />

Dead Sea. The spa offers massages, mud wraps<br />

and a host of other relaxing treatments.<br />

KEMPINSKI ISHTAR DEAD SEA<br />

The latest addition to the hotels of the Dead Sea,<br />

the Kempinski Ishtar brings breathtaking design<br />

and modern luxury. Rooms are spacious,<br />

especially those located in the Ishtar villas, and<br />

are replete with facilities. The array of carefullydesigned<br />

pools are a delight as you can always<br />

find a deserted spot. The beach has been built<br />

up with fine sand from the Red Sea and the spa<br />

is one of the largest to be found in the region.<br />

There are also a number of top quality<br />

restaurants offering a range of different cuisines.<br />

EVASON MA’IN HOT SPRINGS,<br />

NEAR THE DEAD SEA<br />

The Evason Ma’in Hot Springs is located in the<br />

hills above the Dead Sea. With 96 rooms and a<br />

quiet setting, this hotel is one of the most<br />

luxurious places to stay in Jordan. The respected<br />

Evason standards of service make any stay here<br />

extremely relaxing, especially for guests who<br />

make their way down to the Six Senses spa. The<br />

grounds of the hotel have been landscaped with<br />

several pools and garden areas. The staff here are<br />

very friendly and this is a good alternative to the<br />

larger Dead Sea hotels.<br />

Bethany Beyond the Jordan<br />

Now a place of pilgrimage for many Christians<br />

visiting Jordan, Bethany is the site of significant<br />

archaeological remains, which were only properly<br />

excavated in the 1990s. The findings, including a<br />

series of churches, caves, wells and water<br />

channels, along with baptism pools, led historians<br />

to declare the area the site of Jesus’ baptism and<br />

St John the Baptist’s mission. Bethany is one of<br />

the lowest points on earth, with an incredible<br />

biodiversity, offering the opportunity to see a<br />

historical site in a fascinating natural setting.<br />

Kempinski Ishtar Dead Sea<br />

www.audleytravel.com/jordan ● 01993 838 415 ● Jordan 41


Jerusalem<br />

The Western Wall and Dome of the Rock, Jersusalem<br />

Jerusalem is somewhere that many people<br />

feel they know, despite not having been there.<br />

The names, places and stories associated with<br />

the city and the surrounding area are instantly<br />

familiar; the Mount of Olives, the Last Supper,<br />

the Temple Mount, Bethlehem, the Wailing<br />

Wall and the Dome of the Rock. A walk<br />

through the Old City of Jerusalem is to take a<br />

journey through the history of civilisations and<br />

empires, with ancient Jewish remains, Roman<br />

streets, Crusader castles and Mamluk mosques<br />

all enclosed within Ottoman-era city walls.<br />

The Old City is divided into quarters, with each<br />

quarter having its own distinctive character,<br />

depending on the religion and ethnicity of its<br />

inhabitants. Jerusalem is not just a living museum<br />

though – it’s very much a modern, breathing<br />

city. Beyond the city walls, the ‘new’ city of<br />

Jerusalem has a good selection of restaurants<br />

and bars on pleasant pedestrianised streets.<br />

There are also excellent museums such as the<br />

Israel Museum (repository of the Dead Sea<br />

Scrolls), as well as the harrowing but touching<br />

Yad Vashem Holocaust History Museum.<br />

Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem<br />

Church of the Holy Sepulchre<br />

Combining Jordan and Jerusalem<br />

Ending a trip to Jordan with a visit to Jerusalem<br />

is very easy. You can simply cross the border to<br />

the north of the Dead Sea via the Allenby<br />

Bridge (also known as the King Hussein Bridge),<br />

obtaining visas on the day of travel. Jerusalem is<br />

about an hour’s drive from the border. Most<br />

visitors spend about three nights in Jerusalem to<br />

see all the sites in and around the city, although<br />

there is enough to do in the area to merit a<br />

longer stay. You may also like to include a trip<br />

to Bethlehem, which is eight kilometres south<br />

of Jerusalem.<br />

42


Jewish quarter, Jerusalem<br />

The Western Wall, Jerusalem<br />

Orthodox Jewish man, Western Wall<br />

ACCOMMODATION IN JERUSALEM<br />

Our specialists have researched and inspected a<br />

wide range of hotels in Jerusalem and would be<br />

happy to advise you on the best choice for your<br />

trip and your budget. Our favourites are the<br />

Mount Zion Hotel, which is characterful and has<br />

good views over Jerusalem; the Harmony Hotel,<br />

located outside the city walls, but within the<br />

older part of the ‘new’ city and the King David<br />

Jerusalem Hotel, well known for its character<br />

and history of hosting the great and the good.<br />

King David Jerusalem Hotel<br />

Jerusalem’s Old City<br />

The Old City is divided into different areas;<br />

the Christian, Muslim, Armenian and Jewish<br />

quarters, though the divisions between these<br />

areas are not always particularly obvious. The<br />

Old City is crammed with historic buildings<br />

which are highly significant to the three<br />

Abrahamic faiths. On a full day tour of Jerusalem<br />

you would expect to see some of the following<br />

sites, amongst many others.<br />

Temple Mount<br />

Thought to be the centre of the world in Jewish<br />

tradition, Temple Mount is the location of the<br />

First Temple, built by Solomon and where the<br />

Dome of the Rock is found, the site of God’s<br />

test of Abraham’s faith.<br />

Western Wall<br />

Surrounding Temple Mount on the western<br />

side, the wall is perhaps better known as the<br />

Wailing Wall and is the remnant of the ancient<br />

wall that at one time surrounded the Jewish<br />

temple’s courtyard, built by Herod the Great in<br />

the first century BC. Jews continue to make<br />

pilgrimages here to lament their losses and to<br />

pray, with Friday sunset being the busiest time.<br />

Al-Aqsa Mosque<br />

Also situated on Temple Mount, Al-Aqsa<br />

Mosque is one of the most important buildings<br />

of Islam, marking the spot from which<br />

Mohammed made his ascent to heaven during<br />

his night-time journey from Mecca to Jerusalem.<br />

Church of the Holy Sepulchre<br />

One of Christianity’s most important sites, the<br />

Church of the Holy Sepulchre was built on the<br />

spot where Jesus was nailed to the cross, died<br />

and was resurrected.<br />

Church of the Holy Sepulchre<br />

Jerusalem 43


Jerash<br />

Amman<br />

The Dead Sea<br />

ISRAEL<br />

Kerak Castle<br />

JORDAN<br />

Petra<br />

Wadi Rum<br />

SAUDI ARABIA<br />

Rock Arch in Wadi Rum<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Jordan specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 415<br />

Getting around<br />

Jordan has an excellent road network and the<br />

length of the country can be covered in a matter<br />

of hours. Most of your travelling will be on these<br />

roads in private air-conditioned vehicles. Visits to<br />

Jordan can easily be combined with travel to<br />

other countries within the region. Crossing into<br />

Syria is done by travelling north from Amman to<br />

Damascus, visiting the archaeological ruins of<br />

Jerash or Bosra on your way. Alternatively, you<br />

could venture across the Allenby Bridge to see<br />

the world’s most important religious city,<br />

Jerusalem, or fly to Cairo for a trip around Egypt<br />

and its wonderful ancient monuments.<br />

Azraq wetlands<br />

44<br />

Lizard in Dana Nature Reserve<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Jordan has a typically Middle Eastern climate.<br />

Spring and autumn are the best times to travel as<br />

the days are warm, with temperatures into the<br />

high twenties Celsius with cool nights. Winters<br />

can be surprisingly cold and wet, whilst snow is<br />

not uncommon. Summers are hot with<br />

temperatures reaching to the forties Celsius on<br />

occasion. If you are not adversely affected by heat<br />

it is still worth considering a trip at this time as<br />

some of the sites will be a little quieter than at<br />

other times of the year.<br />

Time difference: GMT+2 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 5 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Jordan on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Classic Jordan<br />

Jordan’s major sites can all be comfortably visited<br />

in a one-week trip, with time at the end to<br />

unwind. Starting in the north with visits to Jerash<br />

and Amman, you then take the Kings’ Highway<br />

south through Madaba, Mount Nebo and Kerak<br />

ending in Petra. You will have two full days to<br />

explore the site before travelling, via Wadi Rum,<br />

to a Dead Sea hotel for some relaxation.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Fly from the UK to Amman.<br />

On arrival, you are met and taken<br />

to your hotel in the city.<br />

Spend the morning exploring the<br />

capital of Jordan, then head north to<br />

visit the Roman site of Jerash.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> along the Kings’ Highway to<br />

Petra, stopping to visit Madaba,<br />

Mount Nebo and Kerak Castle<br />

en route.<br />

Spend the day in Petra, accompanied<br />

by a local guide.<br />

A second day in Petra to further<br />

explore the site.<br />

Explore Wadi Rum before heading<br />

to the Dead Sea.<br />

Time to relax beside the Dead Sea.<br />

Experience the novelty of floating on<br />

the Dead Sea.<br />

Transfer to Amman’s airport for your<br />

return flight to London.<br />

Stay longer<br />

If you wish to extend your trip you could consider<br />

including a night in Wadi Rum in your itinerary, or<br />

combine it with a trip to Egypt to make the most<br />

of your stay in the region.<br />

Wall of Tombs, Petra


Suggested itineraries<br />

Ajloun Castle<br />

The Dead Sea<br />

Umm Qais<br />

Jerash<br />

Amman<br />

SYRIA<br />

Tel Aviv<br />

Jerusalem<br />

Bethlehem<br />

The Dead Sea<br />

Jerash<br />

Amman<br />

Aleppo<br />

SYRIA<br />

Palmyra<br />

Kerak Castle<br />

ISRAEL<br />

Kerak Castle<br />

Damascus<br />

Dana Nature<br />

Reserve<br />

Petra<br />

JORDAN<br />

Petra<br />

JORDAN<br />

The Dead Sea<br />

Amman<br />

JORDAN<br />

Aqaba<br />

Wadi Rum<br />

SAUDI ARABIA<br />

Wadi Rum<br />

SAUDI ARABIA<br />

Petra<br />

Jordan Discovered<br />

Being such a compact country, a two week trip<br />

enables you to see almost everything Jordan has<br />

to offer. The must-see sights of Petra, Jerash and<br />

Wadi Rum combine with an exploration of the<br />

Kings’ Highway, visits to one of Jordan’s nature<br />

reserves and time to relax.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Fly from the UK to Amman.<br />

Transfer to your hotel.<br />

Spend the day exploring Amman<br />

and the Desert Castles.<br />

Leave Amman for a tour of northern<br />

Jordan, taking in Umm Qais, Ajloun<br />

Castle and Jerash.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> along the Kings’ Highway to<br />

Petra, stopping to visit Madaba,<br />

Mount Nebo and Kerak Castle<br />

en route.<br />

Discover Petra with a local guide.<br />

A second day to explore Petra on<br />

your own.<br />

Visit Wadi Rum before travelling to<br />

Aqaba for a couple of nights<br />

Enjoy the Red Sea.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Dana Nature Reserve,<br />

stopping to visit Shawbak Castle<br />

en route.<br />

Walk from Dana Village to Feynan<br />

Ecolodge.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> from Feynan to your Dead<br />

Sea hotel, stopping to visit Lot’s Cave<br />

on your way.<br />

Enjoy the novelty of floating on the<br />

Dead Sea.<br />

A day to continue relaxing at the<br />

Dead Sea, or explore other sites<br />

such as Mukawir or Bethany Beyond<br />

the Jordan.<br />

Transfer to Amman’s airport for your<br />

return flight to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

You could spend longer at the Red Sea or<br />

Dead Sea if you need more time to relax after<br />

your sightseeing.<br />

Jordan and Jerusalem<br />

A perfect itinerary for the history enthusiast,<br />

you start in Jordan with visits to the impressive<br />

Roman city of Jerash, the rose city of Petra, and<br />

a relaxing stay at the Dead Sea. Crossing the<br />

border into Israel, you move on to Jerusalem,<br />

spiritual centre of three of the world’s major<br />

religions, with many different layers of history and<br />

some truly iconic sites. There is also time to visit<br />

the town of Bethlehem.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Fly from the UK to Amman, where<br />

you are met on arrival and taken to<br />

your hotel in the city.<br />

Visit Amman before heading to Jerash<br />

to explore the Roman ruins.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> along the Kings’ Highway to<br />

Petra, visiting Madaba, Mount Nebo<br />

and Kerak Castle on the way.<br />

Visit Petra, accompanied by a local<br />

guide to help you get your bearings.<br />

A second day in Petra to reach some<br />

of the remote parts of the site, such<br />

as the High Place of Sacrifice.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to the Dead Sea, first<br />

visiting Wadi Rum for a jeep tour<br />

of the desert.<br />

A day to enjoy at the Dead Sea.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> across the Allenby Bridge<br />

to Jerusalem.<br />

Spend the day exploring Jerusalem’s<br />

Old City and museums.<br />

Go to Bethlehem to visit the Church<br />

of the Nativity. Return to Jerusalem<br />

for the afternoon.<br />

Transfer to Tel Aviv for your return<br />

flight to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

You could extend your stay in Jordan to include<br />

visits to some of the nature reserves, or spend an<br />

extra couple of nights in Jerusalem to explore the<br />

city some more.<br />

Syria and Jordan Combined<br />

A trip which combines the main highlights of both<br />

Syria and Jordan, this itinerary is perfect for those<br />

wanting a great perspective on the region’s varied<br />

history. In Syria there is time in Aleppo, Palmyra<br />

and Damascus, while your visit to Jordan includes<br />

Amman, the Dead Sea and magical Petra.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Day 16<br />

Day 17<br />

Fly from the UK to Damascus.<br />

Visit Damascus, taking in the<br />

Umayyad Mosque and the<br />

National Museum.<br />

Explore the sites in the south of<br />

Syria, including Bosra and Shahba.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Palmyra, stopping to visit<br />

Ma’alula and Deir Mar Musa en route.<br />

Explore the ruins of Palmyra.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Aleppo, visiting Apamea<br />

on your way.<br />

Discover Aleppo, with a view over<br />

the city from the huge Citadel.<br />

Visit sites in the surrounding<br />

countryside, including St Simeon’s,<br />

Ain Dara and the Dead City of<br />

Serjilla.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Damascus, visiting Crac<br />

des Chevaliers on the way south.<br />

Cross the border into Jordan,<br />

continuing to Amman.<br />

Visit the sites of northern Jordan,<br />

including the Roman ruins of Jerash,<br />

Umm Qais and Ajloun Castle.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Petra, visiting Madaba,<br />

Mount Nebo and Kerak Castle on<br />

your way along the Kings’ Highway.<br />

Visit Petra with a local guide who will<br />

help you explore the site.<br />

Revisit Petra and discover some of<br />

the more remote areas of the site.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to the Dead Sea, stopping to<br />

visit Lot’s Cave en route.<br />

A day to enjoy floating on the Dead<br />

Sea and relaxation at your hotel.<br />

Transfer to Amman’s airport for your<br />

return flight to the UK.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/jordan ● 01993 838 415 ● Jordan 45


Syria<br />

Culturally and historically, Syria is<br />

probably the richest country in the<br />

Middle East and is an essential destination<br />

for anyone with an interest in this<br />

fascinating region. It has been continuously<br />

inhabited since the Neolithic period and all<br />

the great Mediterranean cultures have held<br />

sway here. Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans,<br />

Arabs and Crusaders have all left traces of<br />

their influence in the extensive ruins found<br />

throughout the country. Palmyra is one of<br />

the greatest archaeological highlights of the<br />

region, fully justifying a visit to Syria in<br />

its own right. The great cities of Damascus<br />

and Aleppo trace their origins back to<br />

darkest antiquity, with Damascus claiming<br />

to be the oldest continually inhabited city<br />

in the world. Today both cities are<br />

intoxicating blends of ancient citadels,<br />

Roman streets and labyrinthine souqs,<br />

overlaid by bustling modernity. Traders<br />

peddle their wares against a backdrop that<br />

would be instantly recognisable to their<br />

ancestors from past centuries. Visitors<br />

returning from Syria always talk about the<br />

people, always ready with a smile and<br />

unwaveringly hospitable.<br />

46


<strong>Audley</strong> in Syria<br />

5<br />

1<br />

2<br />

4<br />

Our advice on how to plan your time in<br />

Syria depends on your particular interests,<br />

and whether or not you are combining<br />

your visit with another country. A trip just to<br />

see the major highlights would take about a<br />

week, whereas we would suggest the keen<br />

amateur historian spends a fortnight here.<br />

This is long enough to visit the major<br />

highlights of Damascus, Palmyra, Crac des<br />

Chevaliers and Aleppo, along with a host of<br />

other sites, perhaps including a journey along<br />

the Euphrates Valley. Good transport links<br />

with Jordan and Lebanon make it easy to<br />

combine two or all three of these countries.<br />

We recommend just over two weeks to<br />

combine Syria’s most important sites with<br />

visits to Petra in Jordan and Baalbek in<br />

Lebanon.<br />

Accommodation<br />

1 Damascus<br />

One of the oldest cities in the<br />

world, Damascus has wonderful<br />

historic and religious monuments<br />

as well as labyrinthine covered<br />

souqs to explore.<br />

3<br />

Worshipper in Aleppo Mosque<br />

4 Palmyra<br />

With a mixture of historical<br />

influences and a desert location,<br />

Palmyra is an essential stop on<br />

any trip to Syria.<br />

Syrian cuisine<br />

Syrian cuisine is a delightful<br />

mix of Armenian, Turkish,<br />

Jewish and Arab influences.<br />

Previously, the hotel industry has been<br />

dominated by state-owned chains, which<br />

operate hotels in nearly every significant<br />

destination. There have been dramatic<br />

improvements in accommodation over<br />

recent years in Damascus and Aleppo,<br />

however, and our specialists continue to<br />

unearth characterful properties with each<br />

visit. The growth in small boutique hotels<br />

has been a boon to tourism in Syria. These<br />

properties take their lead from Moroccan<br />

riads and are converted palaces and large<br />

family homes with a real local flavour. They<br />

add a splash of charm in a country where<br />

accommodation is usually practical rather<br />

than luxurious. Damascus is now also<br />

attracting the interest of international<br />

premium hotel groups such as Four Seasons<br />

and Kempinski.<br />

5<br />

Crac des Chevaliers<br />

Crac des Chevaliers is the bestknown<br />

of the Crusader castles.<br />

St Simeon’s<br />

Find out more<br />

Umayyad Mosque, Damascus<br />

2 Aleppo<br />

The old city of Aleppo matches<br />

Damascus for history and<br />

culture, with the Citadel<br />

dominating the skyline.<br />

3 Bosra<br />

Bosra’s Roman theatre has<br />

gravity-defying seats, and<br />

once accommodated 9,000<br />

spectators.<br />

Aleppo’s souqs<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Syria, please see<br />

pages 54-55.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Syria<br />

specialists 01993 838 425<br />

Syria 47


Umayyad Mosque, Damascus<br />

Damascus<br />

Though several cities claim to be the longest<br />

continuously inhabited city in the world,<br />

Damascus has a better claim than most.<br />

Archaeological remains dating to the third<br />

millennium BC have been found and King David,<br />

the Persians and Alexander the Great were some<br />

of the city’s earliest conquerors. The city walls<br />

date back to Roman times, as does the biblical<br />

Straight Street. Caliph Khalid Ibn Al-Walid, ruler<br />

of the first Islamic Empire, moved his capital to<br />

Damascus in the 8th century AD, during the<br />

Umayyad period. His Umayyad Mosque is now at<br />

the heart of the winding streets and alleys of Old<br />

Damascus, where traders display their wares<br />

against a backdrop of Corinthian columns and<br />

Mamluke stone-work. It is a scene which belongs<br />

just as much to the medieval Islamic and<br />

Ottoman eras as to the Syria of today.<br />

The townhouse hotels<br />

of Syria<br />

During the last decade or so, Syrians have<br />

seen the potential in converting period family<br />

homes and palaces in the old cities of<br />

Damascus and Aleppo into boutique hotels.<br />

The old houses lend themselves well to this<br />

purpose; there is usually a small number of<br />

rooms and the buildings retain many of their<br />

original features and character. They are<br />

often located in the city centre, ideal for<br />

exploring the narrow streets and souqs.<br />

Staying in one of these hotels offers a real<br />

insight into traditional architecture in a<br />

Middle Eastern city, with their rooms set<br />

Old family home, Damascus<br />

Courtyard, Beit Al-Mamlouka<br />

around central courtyards, and with separate<br />

quarters for men and women, demonstrating<br />

not only the wealth of the original<br />

inhabitants, but also how similarly Muslim,<br />

Christian and Jewish families lived in these<br />

cities in the past. In general, the houses have<br />

been converted with care and attention.<br />

Indeed, one architect made the conversion of<br />

her house (Beit al-Mamlouka, in Damascus)<br />

the subject of her doctoral thesis. Arches,<br />

striped stone-work, tiled floors and intricate<br />

stone and woodwork abound in these<br />

houses, making them a delight for architects,<br />

historians, photographers and artists alike.<br />

Colourful spices, Damascus<br />

48


Selling walnuts in the spice souq, Damascus<br />

Hotel Talisman, Damascus<br />

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL,<br />

DAMASCUS<br />

The Four Seasons Hotel in Damascus offers<br />

excellent service and attention to detail,<br />

conveniently located near the National Museum.<br />

Inside, the rooms are superb, and the hotel’s<br />

height means that it towers over the city with<br />

some commanding views from the highest levels.<br />

The hotel has all the facilities needed for a short<br />

stay in Damascus, including a swimming pool to<br />

relax in after a day’s sightseeing.<br />

HOTEL TALISMAN, DAMASCUS<br />

The Hotel Talisman has a fantastic location in<br />

central Damascus, a hundred metres from the<br />

Roman Arch on Straight Street leading to the<br />

eastern gate (Bab Ash-Sharqi). Originally built as<br />

a palace by one of the city’s old Jewish families,<br />

it is centred round a large open courtyard and<br />

pool. Traditional arched doors and windows,<br />

framed by the alternating marble bands typical of<br />

Syrian architecture, lead into the cool interior,<br />

where you find a lounge and the rooms and<br />

suites. Inlaid wooden furniture, beautiful carpets,<br />

ornate metal light fittings and attractively tiled<br />

bathrooms perfectly capture the opulence of<br />

historic Damascus.<br />

BEIT AL-MAMLOUKA, DAMASCUS<br />

A boutique hotel that radiates Damascene style,<br />

Beit Al-Mamlouka has an enviable location and<br />

was the first of the townhouses to be converted<br />

into a hotel. The terrace is one of the few points<br />

within the old city where you can gaze over the<br />

rooftops and soak up the atmosphere. The eight<br />

rooms are all different and each has its own<br />

charm. Around the hotel there are shady<br />

courtyards, blossoming plants and a quiet<br />

restaurant where a hearty breakfast is provided<br />

and a small bar operates as dusk falls.<br />

AL PASHA, DAMASCUS<br />

Al Pasha is a townhouse hotel, located just off<br />

Straight Street in the old city of Damascus.<br />

The hotel has been formed by joining together<br />

three 18th century houses. It has five suites and<br />

11 rooms spread over two floors, with antique<br />

furniture and old tiles retained throughout.<br />

The high ceilings and white walls create a sense<br />

of space in each room, which also have all the<br />

necessary amenities for your stay. Al Pasha has<br />

more facilities than some of the other<br />

townhouse hotels, with a small gym and the<br />

Al Haneh Bar, where you can relax and enjoy<br />

a drink after sightseeing.<br />

Beit Al-Mamlouka, Damascus<br />

Al Pasha, Damascus<br />

www.audleytravel.com/syria ● 01993 838 425 ● Syria 49


Bosra’s Theatre<br />

Bosra<br />

South of Damascus, near the border with Jordan,<br />

Bosra is a fascinating archaeological site. It is most<br />

famous for its fabulously preserved Roman<br />

theatre, complete with banked seating, which<br />

once held 9,000 spectators. The theatre is<br />

enclosed within an Arab fortress, explaining its<br />

state of preservation, and like the rest of the<br />

town, it is built of black basalt. As with many<br />

sites in Syria, Bosra shows evidence of the<br />

succession of empires which held sway in the<br />

area, so Roman bath complexes and Corinthian<br />

columns jostle for position with the Mosque of<br />

Omar, which dates to the 7th or 8th century AD<br />

and is thought to be one of the earliest mosques<br />

in the world.<br />

Ma‘alula<br />

50<br />

A church in Ma‘alula<br />

Ma‘alula<br />

Ma‘alula is Syria’s most picturesque village, the<br />

painted houses contrast with the pine trees that<br />

grow on the hillsides. The village is set in the<br />

foothills of the mountains that form a natural<br />

border with Lebanon. Stacked houses, which<br />

combine modern and traditional styles, are pinned<br />

to the rock wall and are interspersed with<br />

churches with blue crosses on the tops of their<br />

spires. It is these churches that form a key part of<br />

Ma‘alula’s appeal, with some of them dating back<br />

to the earliest days of Christianity. The services<br />

here, and indeed many of the conversations in<br />

the village, still take place in Aramaic, the ancient<br />

language spoken by Jesus. Ma‘alula is also the<br />

location of the miracle of St Thecla’s escape from<br />

would-be captors, making it an important stop<br />

for many Christian pilgrims.<br />

Deir Mar Musa<br />

The early Christian church found expression in<br />

remote retreats in inhospitable places. Deir Mar<br />

Musa is one of the few surviving desert<br />

monasteries, located at the top of a cliff and<br />

accessible only on foot. After a period of<br />

abandonment it is in use again, thanks to the<br />

efforts of an Italian Jesuit priest, who rediscovered<br />

the monastery in the 1980s. Today, Syrian monks<br />

and nuns live here, from both Catholic and<br />

Orthodox churches, with the odd traveller also<br />

staying. The walk to the monastery is hard, uphill<br />

work, but once you arrive, the views are<br />

breathtaking. Within the old church of the<br />

monastery you will find superb frescoes dating to<br />

the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries. One such<br />

fresco depicts St Simeon on his pillar, the remains<br />

of which can be seen in the north of Syria.<br />

Deir Mar Musa


Palmyra at sunset<br />

Detail from a column, Palmyra<br />

Palmyra<br />

Palmyra is a desert oasis northeast of Damascus,<br />

which prospered in ancient times thanks to trade<br />

links between the Mediterranean and the<br />

Euphrates Valley. Gradually Romanised over the<br />

course of the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, the city<br />

reasserted its independence in the late 3rd<br />

century under the legendary Queen Zenobia.<br />

What is left today is so extensive and wonderfully<br />

well preserved that it gives a remarkable idea of<br />

what Palmyra was like in its heyday: long<br />

colonnaded streets, vast temples girded by<br />

expertly worked columns and unusual tower<br />

tombs. The highlights of a visit would include the<br />

huge Temple of Bel and the wonderful views<br />

over the whole city from the Arab Castle.<br />

Palmyra is one of the largest, most complete<br />

archaeological sites in the Middle East, with a<br />

unique blend of Classical and regional influences<br />

that makes it a must-see.<br />

TADAMORA PALACE, PALMYRA<br />

The Tadamora Palace is a new hotel located<br />

close to the ancient site of Palmyra. Like all<br />

hotels in the town, the Tadamora lacks a little<br />

character, but its location makes it possible to<br />

walk to the ruins and the facilities include two<br />

restaurants, a bar and an outdoor pool. The<br />

rooms are large compared to most hotels in<br />

Palmyra and all are fresh and modern. This is a<br />

good, practical base from which to explore<br />

the area.<br />

Halabiyya, the Euphrates Valley<br />

The Euphrates Valley<br />

The Euphrates Valley is one of the least visited<br />

areas of Syria, but it has a wealth of archaeological<br />

ruins which demonstrate the importance of the<br />

river in Syria’s prosperous past. The Lower<br />

Euphrates is the location of such sites as Mari and<br />

Dura Europos, which although not as visually<br />

impressive as others in Syria, do help to put all<br />

the history into context. The Upper Euphrates is<br />

no less rich with ancient ruins; the remains of<br />

Rasafa, Halabiyya and Deir Ez-Zor are well worth<br />

the long journey necessary to reach them.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/syria ● 01993 838 425 ● Syria 51


Umayyad Mosque, Aleppo<br />

Aleppo<br />

Thanks to its position at the end of the Silk<br />

Route, Aleppo has always been a city of<br />

commerce, in contrast to its neighbour Damascus<br />

which has traditionally been home to the<br />

government and religious elites of the region.<br />

This fact is reflected in the endless bustling souqs,<br />

where a visitor can happily while away many<br />

hours looking for a bargain, or just drinking in the<br />

lively and entertaining street scenes.<br />

Elsewhere, away from the souqs, ancient<br />

churches mingle with Jewish, Armenian and<br />

Turkish influences in the winding streets and alleys<br />

of the old city. Rising above the rooftops is the<br />

8th century Umayyad Mosque (sometimes<br />

known as the Grand Mosque), reputed to contain<br />

the tomb of Zachary, father of John the Baptist.<br />

The entire old city stands in the shadow of the<br />

edifice of the 13th century Citadel. Built on a<br />

natural promontory, the fortress dominates the<br />

skyline and is a reminder of the city’s strategic<br />

importance in the past. It is a very atmospheric<br />

place at sunset, when the echoes of the call to<br />

prayer reverberate around Aleppo.<br />

Aleppo also has an excellent National Museum,<br />

recommended especially for those visiting the<br />

archaeological sites of Ugarit and Mari as many<br />

of the finds are displayed here.<br />

BEIT SALAHIEH, ALEPPO<br />

After a lavish renovation, Beit Salahieh<br />

reopened in 2010 as one of Aleppo’s most<br />

luxurious and historic hotels. It has a fantastic<br />

location, charmingly ensconced in some of the<br />

older streets at the foot of the Citadel, away<br />

from the hustle and bustle of the souq area.<br />

The rooftop bar and restaurant take full<br />

advantage of this excellent location, with stunning<br />

views across to the Citadel, which is lit up at<br />

night. There are 40 rooms spread over three<br />

houses that make up the hotel, all fitted out with<br />

the modern facilities you would expect, while<br />

retaining a distinctive Syrian character.<br />

Carpet seller in an Aleppo souq<br />

Aleppo’s souqs<br />

Aleppo’s covered souqs, reputedly<br />

forming the longest market in the world,<br />

stretch for over ten miles. The souqs<br />

retain their original structure and layout,<br />

so different products are for sale in<br />

specific areas of the market, hence<br />

names such as the Souq Al-Hibal, the<br />

rope market, and Souq Al-Attarine,<br />

where perfumes and incense are sold.<br />

Locals continue to use the souq for<br />

everyday shopping, much as their<br />

ancestors did centuries ago.<br />

52<br />

Citadel, Aleppo


Children, Aleppo<br />

The Hittite Temple at Ain Dara, near Aleppo<br />

MANSOURIYA PALACE HOTEL,<br />

ALEPPO<br />

The renovation of Mansouriya, a 16th century<br />

house, took a full seven years before it opened in<br />

2002. Today, the nine suites are a haven of calm<br />

and luxury. Three suites sit on the first floor,<br />

looking into a central courtyard with covered<br />

seating areas, while three occupy the next floor<br />

and the final three are tucked behind the<br />

restaurant and Jacuzzi area. All are fabulously<br />

decorated in a style which reflects a particular<br />

period of Syrian history, giving each suite a unique<br />

character. The hotel is ideally located close to<br />

Aleppo’s covered souqs and the Bab Qennesrin<br />

Gate into the old town.<br />

YASMEEN D’ALEP, ALEPPO<br />

One of many townhouse hotels in Aleppo, this<br />

restored 17th century Arabic house has all the<br />

charm you might hope for. The eight rooms are<br />

bright and well decorated, and the care and detail<br />

in the renovation is plain to see. Situated in the<br />

Jdayde area, it is centrally located for visits to the<br />

Citadel and souqs, yet it’s something of a hidden<br />

retreat as the moment you enter the courtyard<br />

you instantly leave the hustle and bustle of the<br />

city behind you.<br />

Aleppo’s souqs<br />

Mansouriya Palace Hotel, Aleppo<br />

St Simeon’s<br />

These ruins of a Byzantine basilica close to<br />

Aleppo are set on a hillside looking over the<br />

limestone-strewn landscape. They are highly<br />

significant because this is supposedly the location<br />

of St Simeon Stylites’ efforts to lead his extreme,<br />

ascetic lifestyle. To escape a rapidly-growing band<br />

of admirers, he elected to live atop a series of<br />

progressively taller pillars. His fame continued to<br />

grow, and upon his death, after 39 years living at<br />

the top of a pillar, an undignified struggle broke<br />

out for his relics. The remains of the massive<br />

church complex surround the stump of his final,<br />

18 metre-high pillar.<br />

The Dead Cities<br />

The Dead Cities are a cluster of Byzantine cities<br />

to the southwest of Aleppo that appear to have<br />

been spontaneously deserted by their inhabitants.<br />

One theory is that, as the Byzantine era gave way<br />

to the Arab world, trade routes changed through<br />

the region and consequently these cities lost their<br />

raison d’être and the inhabitants simply moved to<br />

other settlements that were faring better. The<br />

beauty of the Dead Cities is that they are not<br />

grand provincial capitals, but the remains of fairly<br />

small settlements with simple, everyday structures<br />

like houses, taverns and public baths. These are in<br />

an amazing state of preservation, especially given<br />

that little restoration work has taken place, and<br />

when you wander around them it’s easy to<br />

imagine that they are still inhabited.<br />

St Simeon’s monastery<br />

www.audleytravel.com/syria ● 01993 838 425 ● Syria 53


Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Syria specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 425<br />

Getting around<br />

Crac des Chevaliers<br />

We provide private air-conditioned vehicles for<br />

journeys in Syria, either small minibuses or saloon<br />

cars. You can choose to travel with just a driver,<br />

or to have a driver and guide if you would like<br />

detailed explanations at the archaeological sites.<br />

When to go<br />

Young Bedouin girl<br />

Hama and Homs<br />

These cities are located along the main route<br />

between Damascus and Aleppo, and because<br />

of their proximity to some of Syria’s central<br />

sites, most visitors end up spending a night in<br />

one or the other. Homs is the third city of<br />

Syria and is the nearest base for reaching Crac<br />

des Chevaliers and many of the other castles<br />

in the area. Hama is the fourth largest city and<br />

has more to offer the visitor – its history is<br />

colourful and long, and its geography is<br />

engaging; nurtured by the Orontes River, and<br />

not far from the foot of the nearby mountains.<br />

Harnessing the river, massive wooden<br />

waterwheels creak and groan in pretty water<br />

parks. Like Homs, Hama is a good base for<br />

visiting sites including the Dead Cities and<br />

Apamea, or as a staging post to link the<br />

major cities.<br />

Apamea<br />

Crac des Chevaliers<br />

Crac des Chevaliers represents the zenith of<br />

Crusader military architecture. Occupying a<br />

bluff overlooking a strategic pass between the<br />

coast and the interior, it was first fortified by<br />

the Emir of Homs in the early 11th century<br />

AD. Captured by the Crusaders, it was handed<br />

over in 1144 to the Knights Hospitaller, one<br />

of the military orders, and it was they who<br />

constructed the massive curtain walls that<br />

seem to be extensions of the sheer cliffs on<br />

which they were built. Wandering around the<br />

site, you can appreciate the skill with which<br />

the Hospitallers shaped their fortress around<br />

the natural slopes and cliffs, and marvel at the<br />

beauty of vaulted passageways.<br />

Apamea<br />

Apamea, like Palmyra, was a trading post of<br />

the Roman Empire. At times it surpassed the<br />

importance of Palmyra, as is evident from the<br />

main street (the Cardo Maximus) which is<br />

longer than those of either Roman Palmyra<br />

or Damascus. It is perfectly aligned north-tosouth,<br />

flanked by tall, ornate colonnades.<br />

Chariot wheel ruts score the paving stones,<br />

and what were once ancient doorways of<br />

shops and residences open out onto partially<br />

excavated fields.<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

March, April, September and October are the<br />

best months to visit Syria, with low rainfall and<br />

temperatures in the mid to late twenties Celsius.<br />

The country enjoys a typical Mediterranean<br />

climate with hot, dry summers and cool winters,<br />

when the north of the country usually sees fairly<br />

significant rainfall. There is of course some<br />

regional variation in the climate throughout the<br />

country, with towns in the east much drier than<br />

Aleppo in the north of the country.<br />

Time difference: GMT+2 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 5 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Syria on our website, alternatively<br />

please call our specialists to discuss your plans.<br />

Noria waterwheel in Hama<br />

54<br />

Umayyad Mosque, Damascus


Suggested itineraries<br />

St.Simeon’s<br />

Aleppo<br />

St.Simeon’s<br />

Aleppo<br />

St.Simeon’s<br />

Aleppo<br />

Crac des<br />

Chevaliers<br />

Apamea<br />

Damascus<br />

SYRIA<br />

Palmyra<br />

Lattakia<br />

Crac des<br />

Chevaliers<br />

Apamea<br />

Homs<br />

Deir Mar Musa<br />

Ma‘alula<br />

Damascus<br />

SYRIA<br />

Palmyra<br />

Crac des<br />

Chevaliers<br />

Tripoli<br />

Byblos<br />

Beirut<br />

Beiteddine<br />

LEBANON<br />

Apamea<br />

Deir Mar Musa<br />

Ma‘alula<br />

Damascus<br />

SYRIA<br />

Palmyra<br />

Bosra<br />

Bosra<br />

Bosra<br />

Classic Syria<br />

This tour takes just over a week to see Syria’s<br />

major highlights and is the perfect introduction to<br />

the principal archaeological ruins and the great<br />

Syrian cities of Aleppo and Damascus.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Fly from the UK to Damascus, where<br />

you will be met and taken to your<br />

hotel for a three night stay.<br />

Visit Bosra in the morning. In the<br />

afternoon return to Damascus to<br />

explore by yourself.<br />

Another day to discover Damascus.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Palmyra to visit the ruins<br />

before sunset.<br />

A long day, with a second chance to<br />

see Palmyra, before visiting the site of<br />

Apamea and moving on to Aleppo.<br />

Visit St Simeon’s basilica in the<br />

morning before returning to Aleppo<br />

to explore the old city.<br />

Another day to discover more<br />

of Aleppo.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> from Aleppo to Damascus,<br />

stopping to visit Crac des Chevaliers<br />

en route.<br />

Transfer to the airport for your<br />

return flight to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

Adding a day or two in Aleppo and Damascus is<br />

worthwhile if you can spare the time – this will<br />

give you the opportunity to discover much<br />

more of the cities and have time for shopping<br />

in the souqs.<br />

Grand Tour of Syria<br />

This tour lingers a bit longer over the<br />

archaeological sites than the Classic Syria trip and<br />

includes some of Syria’s less well-visited sites, such<br />

as Marqab Castle.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Fly from the UK to Damascus,<br />

where you will be met and taken<br />

to your hotel.<br />

Explore the old city of Damascus,<br />

taking in the Umayyad Mosque and<br />

the souqs.<br />

Visit Bosra and the other sites in the<br />

south of Syria.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> from Damascus to Palmyra,<br />

stopping to visit Ma‘alula and Deir<br />

Mar Musa on the way.<br />

A whole day to explore the ruins<br />

of Palmyra.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Aleppo, stopping to visit<br />

the Roman site of Apamea en route.<br />

Visit the basilica of St Simeon.<br />

Discover Aleppo’s souqs and Citadel.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Syria’s coast, stopping en<br />

route to see some of the castles and<br />

ancient ruins in the area.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Homs, with a visit to<br />

Marqab Castle and Saifa on the way.<br />

Visit Crac des Chevaliers, before<br />

returning to Damascus.<br />

Explore Damascus further.<br />

Transfer to the airport for your<br />

return flight to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

The trip could be extended with a trip to Jordan<br />

visiting Jerash, Petra and Wadi Rum before flying<br />

back to the UK from Amman.<br />

Syria and Lebanon<br />

Combined<br />

This itinerary is a two week trip, including all<br />

the most important archaeological sites and cities<br />

in Lebanon and Syria. The itinerary is very easily<br />

reversed if you want to end your trip in the<br />

vibrant city of Beirut.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Fly from the UK to Beirut, where you<br />

will be met and taken to your hotel.<br />

Visit Sidon and Beiteddine, then<br />

spend the rest of the afternoon<br />

exploring Beirut.<br />

Go to Tripoli and Byblos, returning<br />

to Beirut for the night.<br />

Visit Beirut’s National Museum and<br />

the Solidère district.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Damascus in Syria, stopping<br />

to visit the magnificent ruins of<br />

Baalbek on the way.<br />

Explore the old city of Damascus.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> south from Damascus to visit<br />

the archaeological ruins of Bosra.<br />

Head east to Palmyra, stopping at<br />

Ma‘alula and Deir Mar Musa en route.<br />

Visit the ruins of Palmyra.<br />

Visit the site of Apamea before<br />

continuing to Aleppo.<br />

Start your exploration of Aleppo.<br />

Visit the Citadel, the National<br />

Museum and the souqs.<br />

Visit the ruins of St Simeon’s basilica<br />

before returning to Aleppo for the<br />

rest of the day.<br />

Return to Damascus, stopping to visit<br />

Crac des Chevaliers on the way.<br />

Transfer to the airport for your<br />

return flight to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> on to Jordan after your final stay in<br />

Damascus, and visit another of the region’s great<br />

sites, Petra, before returning to the UK.<br />

Azem Palace, Damascus<br />

www.audleytravel.com/syria ● 01993 838 425 ● Syria 55


Lebanon<br />

Though small, Lebanon is home<br />

to a fantastic array of historical<br />

sites as well as having a vibrant<br />

modern culture, which makes it<br />

something of a trendsetter in the<br />

Arab World. Beirut is re-establishing<br />

itself as the principal capital of the<br />

region, looking to reclaim its former<br />

sobriquet, the Paris of the Orient.<br />

The coast is dotted with historical<br />

sites, such as Byblos and Sidon, while<br />

the interior of the country hides<br />

beautiful landscapes, such as the<br />

Qadisha Valley and the snow-capped<br />

Lebanon Mountains. The sheer<br />

height of the columns at the ancient<br />

site of Baalbek, in the northeast, is<br />

impressive enough, but the majesty of<br />

the temples dedicated to Bacchus and<br />

Jupiter also have to be seen to be<br />

believed. Hospitality, in particular<br />

cuisine, is one of the highlights – the<br />

food here is perhaps the tastiest of all<br />

the countries in this region.<br />

Temple of Jupiter, Baalbek<br />

4 Beiteddine<br />

An extensive palace complex in<br />

the hills above Beirut and home<br />

to some fine Byzantine mosaics.<br />

5<br />

5 Tripoli<br />

Associated with Crusader<br />

history, the Citadel of Raymond<br />

de Saint Gilles dominates the<br />

skyline of Tripoli.<br />

6<br />

Baalbek<br />

3<br />

1<br />

2<br />

4<br />

6<br />

Interior of St Paul’s Church, Beirut<br />

1 Beirut<br />

A glitzy capital finding its feet<br />

again, and a fascinating mix of<br />

old and new.<br />

2 Byblos<br />

Dating back eight millennia,<br />

the ruins of Byblos have a<br />

picturesque setting beside the<br />

Mediterranean Sea.<br />

Perhaps the most impressive<br />

and most important of all the<br />

archaeological sites in the<br />

Middle East.<br />

Lebanese cuisine<br />

Lebanese cuisine is renowned<br />

around the world, known for its<br />

mezze, including such dishes as<br />

hummus, tabouleh and falafel.<br />

3<br />

Sidon<br />

A beautiful coastal town to<br />

the south of Beirut, especially<br />

important during the Crusades.<br />

Lebanese mezze<br />

56


Beirut street scene<br />

Beirut<br />

Once known as the Paris of the Orient, Beirut is<br />

again becoming the leading city of the Middle<br />

East. Riven by sectarian divides during the civil<br />

war, the city today is vibrant and bustling. The<br />

National Museum is an essential stop – bright and<br />

well laid-out, with interesting historical displays.<br />

The central Solidère district attracts visitors and<br />

locals alike: its restaurants and cafés are busy<br />

throughout the day. Evidence of Beirut’s ancient<br />

past is visible, with the ruins of Roman<br />

bathhouses, whilst the parliament buildings<br />

demonstrate the French influence of the Mandate<br />

era. The Christian quarters in the east are a maze<br />

of streets and staircases linking hills, and here you<br />

will find some of the best restaurants and bars.<br />

Beirut is truly a Mediterranean city and its<br />

Corniche is wonderful for experiencing the locals’<br />

legendary joie de vivre.<br />

ALBERGO HOTEL, BEIRUT<br />

A Relais and Chateaux property, the Albergo<br />

Hotel is something of a Beiruti institution. It is<br />

located in the Ashrafiyeh district, on a small, quiet<br />

street surrounded by bars, restaurants and cafés.<br />

The hotel retains many of its original features,<br />

including old-fashioned lifts and ornate furniture.<br />

Rooms are spacious and some have balconies<br />

overlooking the street. The hotel has a rooftop<br />

terrace with a small swimming pool. The Italian<br />

restaurant is renowned and a Thai restaurant adds<br />

to the choice of dining options should you want a<br />

change from Lebanese cuisine during your trip.<br />

Phoenicia InterContinental, Beirut<br />

The Mövenpick Hotel and Resort, Beirut<br />

THE MÖVENPICK HOTEL &<br />

RESORT, BEIRUT<br />

Located just off the Corniche with a superb<br />

waterfront location, the Mövenpick Hotel is<br />

oriented towards the west, so the views of the<br />

sunset over the Mediterranean are hard to beat.<br />

It has a range of facilities essential for a<br />

comfortable stay in Beirut, including a large<br />

swimming pool and extensive gym complex for<br />

those needing more activity after sightseeing. The<br />

Mövenpick is a good place to sample Lebanese<br />

cuisine at its best, in the Burj Al-Hammam<br />

Restaurant, while its bar has an extensive wine<br />

list, with plenty of local wine.<br />

PHOENICIA INTERCONTINENTAL,<br />

BEIRUT<br />

The Phoenicia InterContinental Hotel in Beirut<br />

deservedly enjoys a reputation as one of the most<br />

glamorous and luxurious hotels in the city. The<br />

hotel was a landmark and fashionable hive of<br />

activity in the 1960s, when Beirut was at the<br />

height of its wealth, glamour and sophistication.<br />

Today it still offers luxury facilities, stylish décor<br />

and fine furnishings. The rooms are large and<br />

decorated in an elegant, understated fashion, with<br />

plump pillows and soft bed linen. Six restaurants,<br />

a bar and a lounge offer a wide variety of cuisine<br />

and areas to unwind, while the two swimming<br />

pools and spa provide the perfect antidote to a<br />

long day of sightseeing.<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> in Lebanon<br />

Lebanon is easily visited in a trip of a week<br />

to ten days, with all the major sites within<br />

reach of Beirut. Typically you would be based<br />

in the capital and take day excursions to<br />

Byblos, Tripoli, Sidon, Beiteddine and Baalbek.<br />

Trips can be extended, with extra time to<br />

relax in Beirut, or up in the hills or ski<br />

resorts. Lebanon combines well with time in<br />

Syria and Jordan, usually travelling by road to<br />

cross the land borders. For a comprehensive<br />

tour of these Levantine countries, you would<br />

need around three weeks to include sites<br />

such as Baalbek, Palmyra and Petra.<br />

Accommodation<br />

Accommodation in Beirut tends to be in<br />

international hotels, with a range of locations<br />

and prices. Some of these have fantastic sea<br />

views out onto the Mediterranean. Outside<br />

Beirut the hotels are not quite of the same<br />

standard but there are some good options<br />

along the coast and in the mountains for a<br />

change of scenery.<br />

Druze man, Lebanon<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Lebanon, please<br />

see page 59.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Lebanon<br />

specialists 01993 838 405<br />

Lebanon 57


Sea Castle, Sidon<br />

Baalbek<br />

Baalbek is the main focus for many trips to<br />

Lebanon, and with good reason – it is one of the<br />

most impressive sites of the region, giving visitors<br />

a taste of the power and might of the Roman<br />

empire. Standing at the north of the Bekaa Valley,<br />

a remote location away from the coast, it has<br />

well-preserved temples. One of these is dedicated<br />

to the Roman god of grapes and wine, Bacchus, a<br />

little incongruous nowadays given the proximity of<br />

the site to a local mosque. Another is dedicated<br />

to Jupiter and once had 54 columns marking its<br />

perimeter. Today only six remain standing, but<br />

they are still the largest columns in the world –<br />

over twenty metres high and with a girth of just<br />

over two metres.<br />

The Bekaa Valley<br />

Running along the border with Syria and sitting<br />

between two mountain ranges, the Bekaa Valley<br />

is an agricultural region in the east of Lebanon.<br />

The area has been used for farming since ancient<br />

times, and provided grains for the Roman Empire.<br />

Nowadays the valley is known for its vineyards<br />

and wineries and Lebanese wine is some of the<br />

best produced in the region. Several of the<br />

wineries are open for visits and tastings, including<br />

Ksara and Chateau Musar.<br />

Sidon<br />

As the birthplace of former Prime Minister Rafiq<br />

Hariri, Sidon has undergone several renewal<br />

projects in recent years, which give a rather<br />

sanitised feel to its souqs and historic sites.<br />

Nonetheless, it has a very picturesque setting,<br />

with the Crusader’s Sea Castle acting as a focal<br />

point and gateway to the town. The souqs hide<br />

interesting old churches, caravanserais and<br />

mosques. The town, like Tripoli, was known for<br />

its soap industry and today there is an interesting<br />

museum which displays the original tools and<br />

machinery used by workers.<br />

Ksara wine from the Bekaa Valley<br />

Beiteddine and Deir<br />

Al Qamar<br />

The two former palaces of Beiteddine and Deir<br />

Al Qamar belonged to the rulers of Lebanon<br />

during the Ottoman period. Beiteddine is a series<br />

of three interlinked buildings, with the stables of<br />

the palace now housing some fine Byzantine<br />

mosaic, taken from a nearby site. Deir Al Qamar<br />

has further palaces and is also a good place to<br />

enjoy a typical Lebanese snack.<br />

Temple of Bacchus, Baalbek<br />

58<br />

Beiteddine Palace


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itinerary shown is designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and is a route that<br />

works particularly well. We can use this as a basis<br />

to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Lebanon specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Beirut<br />

Byblos<br />

Tripoli<br />

LEBANON<br />

Baalbek<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 405<br />

Getting around<br />

Sidon<br />

Beiteddine<br />

SYRIA<br />

Byblos<br />

The harbour and Crusader castle, Byblos<br />

Byblos<br />

Byblos is one of the oldest continually<br />

inhabited cities in the world and its<br />

archaeological ruins point to beginnings in the<br />

fifth millennium BC. The city became more<br />

established in the third millennium BC, when<br />

the Phoenicians began to colonise the area.<br />

In later years, Byblos was subjected to<br />

numerous different influences, including the<br />

Amorites, the Egyptians, the Greeks, the<br />

Assyrians, the Persians and the Romans.<br />

Today, Byblos is dominated by its ruined<br />

Crusader castle and only by climbing its<br />

heights do you get a true sense of the scale<br />

and importance of the site.<br />

Tripoli<br />

In Lebanon you will usually travel with a driver<br />

or a driver and guide, depending on how much<br />

detail you prefer at the various historical sites.<br />

Vehicles are modern and air-conditioned.<br />

Getting around Beirut is very easy as there are<br />

plenty of taxis available, but some areas, such as<br />

Solidère and Hamra, are best explored on foot.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Lebanon has a typically Mediterranean climate,<br />

with cool and often wet winters, and hot<br />

summers. The best times to travel are spring and<br />

autumn, when the temperatures are moderate.<br />

The mountain peaks remain snow-covered<br />

until the late spring, but visits at this time are<br />

still possible.<br />

Time difference: GMT+1 hour<br />

Flight time from UK: 5-6 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Lebanon on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Lebanon Uncovered<br />

This trip fits into one week and will introduce<br />

you to all the major archaeological sites, with<br />

time to experience the vibrant, cultural mix of<br />

modern-day Lebanon.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Fly from London to Beirut and<br />

transfer to your hotel.<br />

Discover Beirut, the National<br />

Museum and the redeveloped<br />

Solidère area.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> north to visit the ruins of<br />

Byblos and the souqs of Tripoli.<br />

Go to Baalbek to visit the ruins and<br />

on the return journey stop to taste<br />

Lebanese wine at the Ksara Winery.<br />

Head south from Beirut to visit<br />

the port of Sidon, then up into the<br />

hills to visit the Ottoman palaces<br />

at Beiteddine.<br />

Continue exploring Beirut.<br />

Transfer to the airport for your<br />

return flight to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

Take a few extra days to soak up Beirut’s unique<br />

atmosphere or continue into Syria and/or Jordan<br />

to complete your experience of the Levant,<br />

visiting the ancient sites of Palmyra and Petra<br />

during your trip.<br />

Tripoli is the biggest town in the north of<br />

Lebanon and seems to look east for its<br />

influences. The souqs are much more<br />

authentic than those of Sidon (which have<br />

been extensively tidied up in recent years)<br />

and the old town has some beautiful examples<br />

of Islamic architecture in the form of mosques,<br />

madrassas and hammams. The whole town is<br />

overlooked by the Citadel of Raymond de<br />

Saint Gilles, constructed during the era of<br />

Christian influence in the Crusades. A view<br />

from here shows the jumble of the old town<br />

below, with the Mediterranean in the distance.<br />

Soap on sale, Tripoli<br />

View over the Bekaa Valley<br />

www.audleytravel.com/lebanon ● 01993 838 405 ● Lebanon 59


Morocco<br />

Although less than a four hour flight<br />

from the United Kingdom, Morocco<br />

really is a world away. The narrow alleys<br />

of medinas, centuries old and encircled with<br />

solid ramparts, ring with the cries of<br />

artisans and merchants in a vivid swirl of<br />

colours and scents. Beyond the cities,<br />

towering mountains are home to hardy<br />

Berbers living in ancient, mud-built<br />

villages pinned to sheer slopes. Valleys<br />

carve through arid landscapes and palm<br />

plantations surround fortified villages that<br />

shelter amongst the first waves of the<br />

Sahara’s dunes. Morocco’s history has seen<br />

Roman invasions, Islam borne by Arabian<br />

soldiers, mighty Berber dynasties and the<br />

heavy hand of French colonialism. Each<br />

have left their own legacy; ruins, mosaics,<br />

tombs and mosques all speak of a long and<br />

chequered past, whilst also forming an<br />

intrinsic part of Morocco’s present. This<br />

heritage is not just a physical presence:<br />

Moroccan cuisine also bears witness to the<br />

country’s multicultural history. Traditional<br />

Arab influences are overlaid with<br />

indigenous Berber flavours and more than<br />

a touch of French sophistication.<br />

60


<strong>Audley</strong> in Morocco<br />

5<br />

1<br />

2 3<br />

4<br />

7<br />

8<br />

6<br />

Morocco’s diversity guarantees that it offers<br />

something to suit all tastes. Marrakesh and<br />

the High Atlas Mountains are traditionally<br />

favourite destinations, with the ancient city<br />

of Fez and the walled coastal town of<br />

Essaouira also becoming increasingly<br />

popular. Trips vary from six nights to<br />

three week comprehensive touring itineraries.<br />

For those looking for something a bit more<br />

adventurous, we can arrange treks in the<br />

Atlas Mountains, including ascents of Jebel<br />

Toubkal, or the chance to camp on the<br />

fringes of the Sahara Desert.<br />

Accommodation<br />

1 Djema El Fna<br />

As the sun sets, Marrakesh’s<br />

main square transforms into<br />

an open theatre with snake<br />

charmers, storytellers and<br />

acrobats. The huge variety of<br />

food stalls includes delicacies<br />

ranging from simple soups and<br />

kebabs to sheep brains.<br />

2 Toubkal Lodge<br />

Perched on a hillside<br />

overlooking the beautiful<br />

Azzaden Valley, the Toubkal<br />

Lodge offers the perfect retreat<br />

for those looking to escape<br />

the crowds.<br />

3 Mountain walks<br />

Whether you want a gentle<br />

stroll to a traditional Berber<br />

village, or to scale North Africa’s<br />

highest peak, the High Atlas are<br />

a stunning backdrop for walks<br />

and hikes.<br />

4 Ait Benhaddou<br />

The village of Ait Benhaddou<br />

has understandably earned<br />

many film credits, and continues<br />

to be one of the most<br />

picturesque mud-brick<br />

fortifications in the country.<br />

Dunes, the Erg Chebbi<br />

5 Essaouira<br />

With atmospheric ramparts<br />

and a large fishing fleet,<br />

Essaouira is a great place to<br />

unwind and enjoy the freshest<br />

fish in Morocco.<br />

6 The Erg Chebbi<br />

This vast sand-sea of rolling<br />

dunes is Morocco’s prime spot<br />

to witness a spectacular sunset.<br />

7 Voloubilis<br />

The furthest western outpost<br />

of the Roman Empire, Voloubilis<br />

boasts some impressive mosaics.<br />

8 Fez medina<br />

More traditional and<br />

conservative than Marrakesh,<br />

the winding maze of Fez’s<br />

medina has the feel of a<br />

living museum.<br />

Moroccan riads<br />

With central leafy courtyards<br />

and a handful of rooms, these<br />

charming boutique hotels offer<br />

an excellent base for any stay<br />

in Morocco.<br />

Moroccan cuisine<br />

Diverse and delicious, Moroccan<br />

food is like no other. Popular<br />

dishes range from tajines and<br />

couscous to flaky pastry pastilla.<br />

Finding local character accommodation is<br />

always high on our list of priorities. We have<br />

scoured the country for the best riads and<br />

hotels Morocco has to offer, and can<br />

recommend a wide range of properties from<br />

the simple and traditional to the modern and<br />

luxurious. In Marrakesh, Fez and Essaouira,<br />

we recommend staying inside the old city<br />

walls, known as the medina, as this gives you<br />

a real feel for the city. Alternatively, if you<br />

are looking for a peaceful escape, then there<br />

are areas outside the city that are worth<br />

considering. In more remote areas of the<br />

mountains and the arid south, there are a<br />

growing number of properties adapted from<br />

old mud and brick kasbahs, which also<br />

provide distinct character and comfort.<br />

Ramadan and Eid<br />

Being a Muslim country, certain key dates<br />

and festivals such as the month of Ramadan<br />

and the festivals of Eid can make a difference<br />

to your travel plans. They do not rule out a<br />

visit though, and by checking each year’s<br />

calendar we can make sure that your trip is<br />

planned accordingly.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Morocco, please<br />

see pages 76-77.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Morocco<br />

specialists 01993 838 420<br />

Voloubilis, Meknes<br />

Morocco 61


Djema el Fna, Marrakesh<br />

Marrakesh<br />

Marrakesh is a fabled city and the name itself is<br />

one of the most evocative in travel. Over its<br />

turbulent thousand-year history the city has fallen<br />

in and out of favour with the ruling sultans, but its<br />

function as a market and place of trade has<br />

continued regardless. Rising above this activity are<br />

proud and beautiful reminders of the city’s past in<br />

the towering minarets, ornate tombs and<br />

cavernous palaces. They are encircled by ochre<br />

ramparts, shaded beneath swaying palms and<br />

framed by the distant backdrop of the imposing<br />

Atlas Mountains.<br />

Marrakesh’s medina, souqs<br />

and gardens<br />

The old medina and souqs define the city of<br />

Marrakesh, a sprawling lattice of narrow alleyways<br />

that resound with the hum of the manufacture<br />

and sale of countless goods. At its heart is the<br />

Djema El Fna, an open space that comes alive at<br />

night, packed with entertainers and soothsayers.<br />

In contrast, Marrakesh’s many gardens offer a<br />

haven of tranquility in a busy city. They include<br />

the expansive Menara and Agdal gardens, but the<br />

best known are the more compact Majorelle<br />

Gardens inside the Ville Nouvelle. Here, vibrant<br />

Moroccan food<br />

Food is one of the great pleasures of travel<br />

in Morocco. Whether you eat in a restaurant<br />

or at a busy stall in the souq, you will be<br />

delighted with the unique flavours of local,<br />

fresh ingredients. Perhaps the most unusual<br />

dish is pastilla, which is minced pigeon meat<br />

cooked with sweet spices such as cinnamon<br />

and folded between layers of flaky pastry<br />

that is usually topped with a dusting of sugar.<br />

As strange as the combination may sound,<br />

the contrast of sweet and savoury is very<br />

tasty, although larger portions can be<br />

extremely rich. Tajine is a national dish, the<br />

name referring to the conical pot in which<br />

the stew is slowly cooked. Again, ingredients<br />

such as dates and apricots bring sweet<br />

flavours into a savoury dish, with red meat<br />

such as lamb or beef being slowly cooked<br />

bougainvillea and nasturtiums are combined<br />

with more exotic plants, all surrounding a striking,<br />

cobalt-blue art deco pavilion, which now houses<br />

a small Museum of Islamic Arts. Originally<br />

completed in 1924 by Jacques Majorelle, the<br />

gardens were lovingly restored by the late<br />

designer, Yves Saint Laurent, to whom there is<br />

a discreet shrine within the grounds.<br />

Learning to cook at La Maison Arabe<br />

until it is very tender. Couscous, another<br />

favourite, is made of semolina-like grains of<br />

half-baked flour that are repeatedly steamed<br />

and oiled so the grains do not stick together.<br />

This is often eaten with a tajine, although<br />

Moroccans tend to prefer to scoop up their<br />

sauce with a crispy flatbread. For those who<br />

want to find out more, certain riads offer half<br />

day cookery courses, particularly in Marrakesh.<br />

Majorelle Gardens, Marrakesh<br />

62


The Saadian Tombs, Marrakesh<br />

Souq, Marrakesh<br />

The riads of Marrakesh<br />

Traditional riads are our favourite places to stay<br />

in Morocco. These charming properties offer<br />

accommodation to just a few guests and provide<br />

a uniquely Moroccan experience. Many are<br />

converted from 19th or 20th century merchant’s<br />

houses. A typical riad has rooms which surround<br />

an enclosed courtyard with a garden or fountain.<br />

They tend to be small, with less than 20 rooms,<br />

and are furnished with a mixture of traditional<br />

and modern French-influenced styles. Breakfast is<br />

often included, and in most riads traditional<br />

evening meals can also be prepared with advance<br />

warning. We have included a few of our<br />

favourites here, and our specialists can advise<br />

you on which one to pick.<br />

RIAD KNIZA, MARRAKESH<br />

Built in the 18th century, Riad Kniza is a small,<br />

luxury ‘Hotel de Charme’ in the heart of the<br />

medina. The property has been restored by a<br />

renowned local antiques dealer, with some<br />

beautiful pieces artfully placed in the courtyards<br />

and cubby holes of the riad. The tastefully<br />

designed rooms and suites are built around three<br />

inner courtyards, where you will find a small<br />

plunge pool and spa facilities. Riad Kniza is an<br />

excellent base from which to explore the city and<br />

is only a short walk from the Djema El Fna, the<br />

souqs and the most important monuments and<br />

cultural treasures of the imperial city.<br />

Riad Djemanna, Marrakesh<br />

RIAD DJEMANNA, MARRAKESH<br />

This intimate, attractive riad has a small number<br />

of rooms, each decorated individually and with an<br />

en suite shower room. Built and adapted from<br />

two older riads, the two inner courtyards each<br />

have a small pool and comfortable sitting areas.<br />

Here you can relax, read and enjoy a mint tea,<br />

before moving into the small dining area, where<br />

traditional, homemade Moroccan dishes are<br />

served. The two buildings each have a roof<br />

La Sultana, Marrakesh<br />

Villa Des Orangers, Marrakesh<br />

terrace with sun loungers and great views over<br />

the medina, while the older of them has a small<br />

hammam and two massage rooms. Djemanna is a<br />

great choice for those looking for an authentic<br />

feel and good value in the heart of the medina.<br />

VILLA DES ORANGERS,<br />

MARRAKESH<br />

Just a short walk from the Djema El Fna, this<br />

Relais and Chateaux property deservedly enjoys a<br />

reputation as one of Marrakesh’s finest places to<br />

stay. The stylish and spacious suites provide a<br />

perfect mixture of old fashioned charm and<br />

modern facilities. Fountains gently burble in the<br />

courtyards, ruffling the rose petals on the water’s<br />

surface, while orange trees provide cooling shade.<br />

After a busy day of sightseeing, there is a<br />

luxurious spa area with a gym, hammam, pool<br />

and massage rooms.<br />

LA SULTANA, MARRAKESH<br />

La Sultana is a collection of charming individual<br />

riads, which combine to form a characterful,<br />

luxury hotel that feels much smaller than it<br />

actually is. Each of the 28 rooms has a different<br />

theme and design, reflecting the various influences<br />

that have impacted on Moroccan history. The<br />

spacious roof terraces directly overlook the<br />

Saadian Tombs while offering distant views of the<br />

snow-capped Atlas Mountains. The large pool is<br />

one of the best you will find in any riad and there<br />

is a first class spa for treatments after a busy day.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/morocco ● 01993 838 420 ● Morocco 63


Berber village, High Atlas<br />

KASBAH TAMADOT,<br />

HIGH ATLAS<br />

Just an hour’s drive from Marrakesh, Richard<br />

Branson’s Kasbah Tamadot showcases some of<br />

the finest examples of traditional art and design.<br />

No expense has been spared in restoring this<br />

remarkable building. Ornate lamps and carved<br />

decoration beautifully set off the stunning<br />

mountain backdrop, and each of the 24 rooms<br />

and suites has been individually furnished. The<br />

Kasbah Tamadot also boasts an indoor and<br />

outdoor pool, a fully-equipped gym, a tennis court<br />

and sweeping views over the surrounding valleys.<br />

KASBAH BAB OURIKA,<br />

HIGH ATLAS<br />

The stylish Kasbah Bab Ourika perches on a<br />

hilltop at the apex of the Ourika Valley. Built to<br />

resemble an authentic Moroccan kasbah, the<br />

interior is modern and minimal. All of the rooms<br />

are spacious, with muted colours and understated<br />

furnishings which create an airy feel. The Kasbah<br />

operates a number of environmentally friendly<br />

projects. The hot water supply is heated by solar<br />

panels and the property generates its own<br />

electricity, while all the food is locally sourced.<br />

Kasbah Tamadot, High Atlas<br />

The High Atlas Mountains<br />

The Atlas Mountains are in fact three distinct<br />

ranges that run in bands across Morocco’s<br />

interior, dividing it into strips of lower-lying land.<br />

Furthest north are the Middle Atlas, while the<br />

southerly range are the Anti Atlas that attempt<br />

to keep the desolate Western Sahara at bay.<br />

The central High Atlas range is the most dramatic<br />

and by far the most accessible, containing<br />

North Africa’s highest peak – the 4,167m Jebel<br />

Toubkal – as well as countless Berber villages<br />

terraced onto precipitous ledges. From Marrakesh,<br />

it only takes about 45 minutes to drive to the<br />

High Atlas, a wonderful chance to retreat to the<br />

clear mountain air.<br />

64<br />

DOMAINE MALIKA, HIGH ATLAS<br />

This hotel offers guests a genuine luxury<br />

boutique hotel experience. It is nestled in a<br />

large valley abundant in pine trees and olive<br />

groves, surrounded by the peaks of the High<br />

Atlas Mountains and near the Toubkal National<br />

Park. Domaine Malika offers seven modern<br />

rooms and suites, all boasting a beautiful decor<br />

and a warm atmosphere. Art deco is very much<br />

the theme throughout, contrasting beautifully<br />

with the extensive grounds and stunning<br />

scenery. The hotel offers a full range of spa<br />

treatments including a hammam, body wraps<br />

and various massages.<br />

Kasbah Bab Ourika, High Atlas


Young Berber girl, High Atlas<br />

Kasbah Du Toubkal, High Atlas<br />

Toubkal Lodge, High Atlas<br />

KASBAH DU TOUBKAL,<br />

HIGH ATLAS<br />

Located at the base of Jebel Toubkal, this remote<br />

hotel offers the perfect base for exploring the<br />

Atlas Mountains and getting to grips with Berber<br />

culture. The converted kasbah is built entirely<br />

along traditional lines, with plaster walls, wooden<br />

ceilings and simple, local decoration. There is a<br />

hammam for unwinding after a day in the<br />

mountains, and the roof terrace is perfect for a<br />

quiet mint tea or a welcome tajine as you bask in<br />

the inspiring scenery. As well as guided walks into<br />

the surrounding mountains, you can also visit<br />

nearby villages and hamlets that are home to<br />

many of the staff. As part of their sustainable<br />

tourism policy the Kasbah sets aside five per cent<br />

of all proceeds for local community projects.<br />

TOUBKAL LODGE, HIGH ATLAS<br />

The Kasbah du Toubkal’s trekking lodge allows<br />

guests to stay in the spectacular heart of the<br />

mountains without having to compromise on the<br />

standard of accommodation. The three en suite<br />

rooms have traditional wooden ceilings, carved<br />

doors and fossil marble in the bathrooms.<br />

Warmth is provided by solar powered underfloor<br />

heating and a wood burning stove in the lounge<br />

area, where picture windows lead out onto a<br />

terrace with spectacular views of the valley and<br />

villages below. The lodge is a fascinating day trek<br />

from the Kasbah du Toubkal.<br />

Walking in the Atlas<br />

With the spectacular scenery of the High<br />

Atlas, walking and trekking are popular<br />

options and can be easily arranged. Trips can<br />

range from a few hours of self guided<br />

rambling in the foothills, to full day treks.<br />

You can even undertake a longer trek lasting<br />

several days, where simple, remote lodges<br />

provide a soothing respite at the end of a<br />

tiring day. The ascent of Mount Toubkal is a<br />

favourite, requiring no technical expertise but<br />

a good level of fitness and commitment.<br />

Wherever you stay in the mountains, guided<br />

treks can be arranged directly with your<br />

hotel, or you can follow one of many well<br />

marked trails. Alternatively, your specialist can<br />

help you to plan a specific trek in advance.<br />

Man with donkey, High Atlas<br />

Trekking in the High Atlas<br />

Part of the appeal of walking in this part of<br />

the world is the chance to meet the local<br />

Berber people, who may invite you into their<br />

homes for some mint tea and a chat. For<br />

one of the highest mountain ranges on the<br />

continent, you will find the High Atlas to be<br />

surprisingly populated and accessible, but this<br />

is all part of the charm, with Berber villages<br />

perched on high peaks, framed by snowcapped<br />

Alpine summits.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/morocco ● 01993 838 420 ● Morocco 65


Fishing boats in Essaouira harbour<br />

The easygoing nature of the town, the dramatic<br />

ramparts and the excellent windsurfing have for<br />

many years attracted artists and bohemians alike,<br />

creating a cosmopolitan atmosphere quite<br />

different to the rest of the country.<br />

Riad Watier, Essaouira<br />

Essaouira<br />

On Morocco’s western Atlantic seaboard,<br />

Essaouira is one of the most picturesque towns<br />

in the country. In 1760, the Sultan Sidi<br />

Mohammed had a captive Frenchman design the<br />

town. He also promoted trade, making it a<br />

wealthy commercial centre. The fortifications that<br />

enclose the city shelter a charming, atmospheric<br />

and car-free town. Fresh fish arrive at the port<br />

via a fleet of small boats, and an attractive beach<br />

stretches off to the south, although Essaouira is<br />

anything but a conventional beach destination.<br />

66<br />

RIAD WATIER, ESSAOUIRA<br />

Riad Watier is an intimate place to stay, offering<br />

excellent value for money in the heart of the old<br />

medina. The comfortable rooms are tastefully<br />

decorated with neutral tones of white and beige,<br />

contrasting with bright splashes of colourful<br />

textiles and locally crafted wooden furniture.<br />

Two small roof terraces have views of the<br />

coastline and are perfect for a drink before<br />

dinner. The riad is one of the only hotels in town<br />

to have a full-time cook who prepares traditional<br />

Moroccan and French dishes that are served in its<br />

relaxed dining room.<br />

HEURE BLEUE PALAIS,<br />

ESSAOUIRA<br />

Possibly the most luxurious accommodation in<br />

Essaouira, Heure Bleue Palais is a beautifully<br />

renovated riad with an enviable location in the<br />

medina. It boasts an impressive inner courtyard<br />

and many extra facilities that the smaller riads do<br />

not have, such as a pool, spa, restaurant and bar.<br />

The rooms are decorated in a mixture of<br />

African, Portuguese and British colonial styles,<br />

while the roof terrace has views over the port<br />

and beach.<br />

Villa de L’O, Essaouira<br />

VILLA DE L’O, ESSAOUIRA<br />

The Villa de L’O is an 18th century riad that has<br />

been beautifully restored to a very high standard.<br />

It has an excellent location, just inside the medina<br />

walls and a few metres from the beach and souqs.<br />

The 12 rooms and suites surround a central leafy<br />

courtyard and breakfast area. Each has its own<br />

individual design and theme, from safari to<br />

traditional Moroccan and British colonial. The<br />

attractive rooftop terrace boasts sweeping views<br />

over Essaouira bay, making it a great place to<br />

relax over breakfast during the summer months.<br />

Heure Bleue Palais, Essaouira


Morocco at the movies<br />

Morocco lies at the heart of the North<br />

African film industry, welcoming both<br />

domestic and international productions. It<br />

first came to international attention in the<br />

1950s, when Orson Welles, on his auteurist<br />

sabbatical to Europe and beyond, set most<br />

of his brooding film Othello in Essaouira.<br />

His influence is still apparent today, with a<br />

slightly unflattering monument in Orson<br />

Welles Square, just outside the medina walls.<br />

Essaouira’s evocative setting, with the waves<br />

of the Atlantic crashing onto the ramparts,<br />

has made it a popular location for<br />

blockbusters, including Ridley Scott’s<br />

Kingdom of Heaven.<br />

Essaouira’s ramparts<br />

Ait Benhaddou, setting for Gladiator and other films<br />

Ridley Scott must have enjoyed Morocco, as he<br />

returned to use the atmospheric Ait Benhaddou<br />

for many scenes in Gladiator, the kasbah’s<br />

stunning cinematic location against the snowcapped<br />

backdrop of the Atlas Mountains making<br />

it perfect for the silver screen. Michael Douglas<br />

was also here for Jewel of the Nile, flying a plane<br />

into a specially built archway that remains part of<br />

the kasbah to this day. Close to Ait Benhaddou is<br />

a large film studio at Ouarzazate, which has<br />

drawn the international film industry to the area,<br />

for films like Babel and The Mummy.<br />

Morocco’s desert has been used to represent<br />

other places, including Abu Dhabi in Sex and<br />

the City 2, while the High Atlas Mountains<br />

became Tibet for Martin Scorsese’s Kundun,<br />

with the Kasbah du Toubkal standing in for a<br />

Buddhist monastery.<br />

The use of Morocco for such a wide range<br />

of films merely emphasises the diversity of<br />

stunning scenery there is to enjoy on a tour<br />

of the country.<br />

testament to their former wealth. <strong>Travel</strong>ling this<br />

route and stopping off to explore these grandiose<br />

kasbahs is the perfect introduction to the very<br />

different atmosphere of the south.<br />

Ouarzazate<br />

Telouet valley<br />

Moroccan lady, Essaouira<br />

Atlas film studios, Ouarzazate<br />

Oued Mellah Highway<br />

The Oued Mellah (Salt River) is a former trade<br />

route, running through the High Atlas Mountains<br />

from Marrakesh, providing access to the oases<br />

and valleys of the south. It was traditionally<br />

controlled by the Glaoui tribe: their ksar of<br />

Ait Benhaddou, that guards the southern<br />

approaches, is one of the finest examples of<br />

pisé fortified village construction. The family<br />

kasbah at the northern entrance, Telouet, vividly<br />

conveys the clan’s importance: at its height it was<br />

a huge complex of brilliantly decorated reception<br />

rooms, cavernous kitchens, slave quarters and<br />

extensive subterranean dungeons. After<br />

independence, the Glaoui lost their pre-eminence.<br />

This decline was mirrored at Telouet where<br />

unstable walls have closed off much of the kasbah,<br />

leaving only the reception rooms as an eloquent<br />

Ouarzazate is a city of strategic and historic<br />

importance, which is sadly not well reflected in<br />

the determinedly modern architecture. It is,<br />

however, a great base from which to explore the<br />

castles, valleys and deserts of the south, and<br />

possesses a couple of interesting kasbahs itself.<br />

The restored Taourirt is the best of these, now<br />

standing at the heart of a complex of traditional<br />

housing, craft shops and cafés.<br />

Taourirt Kasbah, Ouarzazate<br />

www.audleytravel.com/morocco ● 01993 838 420 ● Morocco 67


Amerhidil Kasbah, Skoura<br />

Skoura<br />

Skoura is typical of the towns found along the<br />

Dades Valley. The modern part of town offers<br />

little to detain the visitor, but the palm plantations<br />

are criss-crossed by paths that run by crumbling<br />

pisé walls up to kasbahs in equally ruinous<br />

condition. The whole effect is quite beautiful and if<br />

you are going to break your journey anywhere in<br />

the Dades Valley, Skoura is a good place to do it.<br />

Berber lady, Dades Valley<br />

The Dades Valley<br />

The Dades Valley is the principle route between<br />

the desert and the ancient trading oases of Tifilalt.<br />

The main High Atlas are to the north, but at<br />

Todra the valley descends to a dramatic gorge<br />

that cuts through the mountains. It’s one of<br />

Morocco’s greatest natural sights, completed by<br />

a gently burbling stream and welcoming café to<br />

rest at. At its eastern end, the valley joins that<br />

of the Ziz River, where towering palms threaten<br />

to spill over the canyon edge into the valley<br />

hundreds of metres below.<br />

68<br />

LES JARDINS DE SKOURA, SKOURA<br />

Les Jardins de Skoura is a picturesque, small hotel<br />

set in a palm plantation about 20 minutes drive<br />

from the centre of town. The eight rooms and<br />

suites are rustic but tastefully decorated in a blend<br />

of French and Moroccan design. The large, shady<br />

gardens have plenty of recliners and cushions to<br />

tempt guests to relax next to the refreshing<br />

swimming pool.<br />

Dar Ahlam, Skoura<br />

Les Jardins de Skoura, Skoura<br />

DAR AHLAM, SKOURA<br />

Dar Ahlam is hidden away in the pretty palmeraie<br />

at the end of a series of winding tracks. Based<br />

around a 20th century converted kasbah, the chic<br />

suites and private villas are set in pretty gardens<br />

with an artfully designed pool. The main kasbah is<br />

a warren of scented corridors, alcoves and grand<br />

archways, very deliberately creating an exclusive,<br />

intimate atmosphere. Each meal is taken privately<br />

in a different location around the kasbah each<br />

evening, and there is a hammam, Jacuzzi and<br />

massage rooms.


The Dades Valley<br />

Woman, Taroudant<br />

Camel herder, Zagora<br />

Ramparts, Taroudant<br />

Zagora<br />

Dating from French colonial times, when the<br />

town was established as an administrative post in<br />

the Sahara, Zagora is a great base from which to<br />

explore the surrounding palm groves and kasbahs.<br />

It is flanked by the Zagora Mountain, from which<br />

the town got its name, and has a languorous<br />

charm all of its own, with dusty streets and a large<br />

Berber market which is held twice a week.<br />

Taroudant<br />

Taroudant is a wonderful little Berber town,<br />

completely encircled by ochre ramparts that<br />

gave rise to its moniker of ‘mini Marrakesh.’<br />

The traditional souqs make it a great place to<br />

pick up souvenirs if you are not keen on the<br />

haggling that is inherent elsewhere. You can take<br />

an excursion to the nearby kasbah of Tioute, but<br />

Taroudant is really about relaxing and getting a<br />

little closer to rural Moroccan life.<br />

Dar Zitoune, Taroudant<br />

Traders in the souq, Taroudant<br />

DAR ZITOUNE, TAROUDANT<br />

Created in traditional style using local materials,<br />

Dar Zitoune is made up of charming bungalowtype<br />

rooms set in four acres of landscaped<br />

grounds with olive, palm and orange trees and a<br />

20 metre pool. Each room is air-conditioned, with<br />

satellite TV, a safe, phone and internet access.<br />

Dar Zitoune also has a small spa with a hammam<br />

and a choice of massage treatments, and the<br />

terrace restaurant prepares a delicious selection<br />

of Moroccan and European meals.<br />

The Anti Atlas<br />

The Anti Atlas is the hub of all commerce in<br />

Morocco’s grocery trade: banana and orange<br />

groves flourish among the extensive vegetable<br />

crops, and this is the only area in which the argan<br />

nut – virtually unique to Morocco – is abundant.<br />

The gentle foothills of the Anti Atlas are dotted<br />

with argan trees, where you might capture the<br />

definitive Moroccan snapshot of a goat in a tree,<br />

although it is likely it will have been tactically<br />

placed there to impress visitors. Here, the granite<br />

rock formations dominate the landscape, palm<br />

plantations line the beds of the valleys and the<br />

distinctive red painted stone houses enhance the<br />

region’s unique character.<br />

Mountain landscape, Anti Atlas<br />

www.audleytravel.com/morocco ● 01993 838 420 ● Morocco 69


Dunes, the Erg Chebbi<br />

The Erg Chebbi<br />

The Erg Chebbi are the most accessible dunes of<br />

the Sahara in Morocco. The best times to see<br />

them are at sunrise and sunset, when the<br />

changing light subtly alters their colour with each<br />

passing second, from butter yellow to gold, ochre<br />

and honey. A night camping in the desert is a<br />

special experience; the deep tranquillity seemingly<br />

a million miles away from Morocco’s hectic cities,<br />

and the perfect, clear night skies displaying a vast<br />

curtain of stars. Realistically you will need at least<br />

a three day round trip to fit the desert in, but it<br />

can easily be included in a longer itinerary<br />

between Marrakesh and the northern highlights.<br />

Sahara Desert Camp, the Erg Chebbi<br />

70<br />

SAHARA DESERT CAMP,<br />

THE ERG CHEBBI<br />

Tented accommodation has been an integral part<br />

of desert life for centuries, and this private, eight<br />

tent camp offers a taste of the nomadic Bedouin<br />

life with a touch of extra comfort. The location is<br />

fixed deep in the towering dunes of the Sahara,<br />

and there are permanent staff on hand to serve<br />

meals in the restaurant tent. Accommodation is in<br />

spacious white tents which have en suite facilities<br />

and are colourfully decorated with exotic rugs,<br />

cushions and a comfortable bed. A night here<br />

usually involves a camel ride to a dune-top<br />

lookout to take in the sunset, followed by a<br />

traditional Bedouin dinner back at camp with the<br />

chance to stargaze before retiring for the night.<br />

Bedouin man, the Erg Chebbi<br />

KASBAH DERKAOUA,<br />

THE ERG CHEBBI<br />

Situated close to the small village of Merzouga<br />

on the outskirts of the Erg Chebbi, Kasbah<br />

Derkaoua is ideal for anybody who is not keen<br />

on staying in a tent but would like to experience<br />

the majestic Sahara at close hand. There are 22<br />

relatively simple but characterful rooms, adorned<br />

with traditional rugs in striking Berber colours.<br />

The attractive garden is set amid scattered palms<br />

and olive trees, with tables and chairs tucked<br />

away in every corner and a swimming pool that is<br />

perfect for relaxing in after a hot day in the<br />

desert. The restaurant serves traditional Moroccan<br />

recipes and there are two cosy living rooms<br />

where you can unwind after dinner.


Kasbah on the edge of the Erg Chebbi<br />

Medina gate, Rabat<br />

Royal guard outside the Tour Hassan, Rabat<br />

Casablanca<br />

Thanks in part to the famous film of the same<br />

name, Casablanca features in many people’s<br />

concept of Morocco. In truth, none of the film<br />

was shot here and much of the city is like ports<br />

everywhere: quite crowded, industrial and full of<br />

thirsty sailors. It is a major hub, however, and is<br />

likely to feature somewhere on your itinerary if<br />

taking a longer trip to Morocco. While not<br />

offering many reasons to linger, it is the home of<br />

the Hassan II Mosque, undoubtedly the most<br />

impressive mosque in Morocco. Casablanca is also<br />

well stationed for visits to Rabat and itineraries<br />

exploring the north of the country.<br />

Hassan II Mosque<br />

Built using donations from the public, the Hassan<br />

II Mosque is one of the finest religious buildings<br />

in the Islamic world, surpassed in size only by<br />

the mosque in Mecca, with a prayer hall three<br />

times the size of St Paul’s Cathedral. While the<br />

scale is impressive, the mosque’s location on the<br />

shoreline is even more striking, with the huge<br />

minaret standing out against the crashing waves<br />

of the Atlantic. It was only fully completed in<br />

the 1990s, so it has none of the history<br />

associated with other mosques in the Middle<br />

East, but there is no doubting its aesthetic impact.<br />

For non-Muslims, entry is only permitted in<br />

guided groups.<br />

Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca<br />

Rabat<br />

Morocco’s capital shows two distinct faces: the<br />

modern, French-inspired town, with wide treelined<br />

boulevards, cafés and bistros frequented by<br />

government officials, and historic Rabat, centred<br />

on the 12th century walled medina built by the<br />

Almohad sultans. Here, a forest of columns and<br />

the lower section of a huge Moroccan-style<br />

minaret are all that remain of Sultan Yacoub el<br />

Mansour’s attempt to build a mosque that was<br />

designed to rival that of Samarra in Iraq. Slightly<br />

further from the centre of town is the Chellah –<br />

the tombs of Morocco’s Merenid dynasty – now<br />

a wonderfully atmospheric, crumbling set of ruins.<br />

Rabat’s medina is smaller and more relaxed than<br />

those of Marrakesh and Fez, making it ideal for a<br />

short stay and exploration under your own steam.<br />

Casablanca seafront with the Hassan II Mosque<br />

Villa Mandarine, Rabat<br />

VILLA MANDARINE, RABAT<br />

Lovingly transformed from an old family home<br />

into a charming, sunlit villa surrounded by two<br />

hectares of orange groves, the Villa Mandarine<br />

has been in the same French family for several<br />

generations. It is located about 15 minutes drive<br />

from the centre of Rabat, creating a tranquil<br />

atmosphere that makes it a great place to either<br />

begin or end your travels in Morocco. Most<br />

impressive of all are the extensive gardens, a<br />

wonderful place to wander and relax, with<br />

flowers blooming on every corner and lemon<br />

and grapefruit trees interspersed amongst the<br />

Seville oranges. The colourful, comfortable rooms<br />

have been individually decorated and display<br />

pieces of art that have been carefully chosen to<br />

complement each room’s character. The villa also<br />

has a large pool, a hammam and a gym.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/morocco ● 01993 838 420 ● Morocco 71


Tanneries, Fez<br />

Fez<br />

Periodically the capital of Morocco, the city of<br />

Fez has always occupied a place at the spiritual<br />

and political heart of the country. Founded in the<br />

9th century, many of the early settlers were<br />

Islamic refugees fleeing neighbouring Tunisia.<br />

The medina and souqs are probably the best in<br />

Morocco, beautifully situated on a picturesque<br />

hillside. Assaulting the senses with exotic sounds<br />

and scents, a visit here is an intense experience<br />

unlikely to be rivalled elsewhere.<br />

Riad Fes, Fez<br />

72<br />

LA MAISON BLEUE &<br />

RIAD MAISON BLEUE, FEZ<br />

One of the oldest riad-style properties in Fez,<br />

with a great location in the heart of the medina<br />

opposite the Batha Museum, La Maison Bleue is<br />

still one of the most desirable addresses in the<br />

city. Decoration is an ornate mixture of Moorish<br />

and European influences, with blue mosaic, white<br />

walls and original cedar doors. There is a roof<br />

terrace with excellent views over the medina<br />

and the restaurant is one of the best in Fez.<br />

The sister property, Riad Maison Bleue, is an<br />

equally attractive riad, and also boasts a<br />

hammam and pool.<br />

RIAD FES, FEZ<br />

Residents of Fez, or ‘Fassis’, describe their city in<br />

terms of walls: from the outside you will never<br />

understand her, but once within them you will<br />

get to know and love the real Fez. This sums up<br />

the Riad Fes perfectly as it is located in one of<br />

the narrow alleys of the medina, high blank walls<br />

giving no clue as to what lies inside. Once<br />

through the door, a delightful courtyard at the<br />

heart of the hotel with delicate blue and white<br />

tiles creates a wonderfully tranquil air. The rooms<br />

and suites are appointed with fin de siècle period<br />

pieces that evoke the grand living still expected<br />

by rich Fassi merchants. A recent expansion has<br />

added a discreet gym area and a large pool to<br />

the already excellent facilities.<br />

La Maison Bleue, Fez<br />

RYAD MABROUKA, FEZ<br />

A great value riad with friendly staff, a wonderful<br />

location in the centre of the medina and an<br />

enthusiastic and knowledgeable owner, this is a<br />

memorable introduction to the city. The interior<br />

courtyard has sculpted plasterwork on the<br />

columns, cedar wood doors and typical Moroccan<br />

mosaics, opening onto a garden with roses, citrus<br />

trees and a small pool in one corner. There is a<br />

comfortable roof terrace with sweeping medina<br />

views and the restaurant serves delicious,<br />

traditional Moroccan food.<br />

Ryad Mabrouka, Fez


Gate to medina, Fez<br />

Sweets in the souq, Meknes<br />

Children, Fez<br />

Fez’s artisans<br />

While Marrakesh is Morocco’s most<br />

celebrated destination, many prefer the<br />

more earthy, less polished charms of Fez.<br />

Whereas its southern cousin has been<br />

shrewdly manoeuvred towards tourism for<br />

decades, Fez still feels like a working city,<br />

with craftsmen doing the same daily tasks<br />

that have been passed down through<br />

their families for generations. Their locallyproduced<br />

wares are then sold on in a<br />

bustling warren of specialist souqs.<br />

There are a huge range of crafts represented<br />

in distinct areas of the medina, including<br />

carved wood, embroidery, henna painting,<br />

calligraphy, ceramics and copper. Wander the<br />

maze of souqs and you are likely to take<br />

home some great souvenirs. The stalls don’t<br />

Mosaic craftsmen, Fez<br />

White storks, Voloubilis<br />

Leather shoes for sale, Fez<br />

seem to suffer from being situated amid a<br />

dozen competitors selling virtually identical<br />

spoils. Whichever craft you happen upon,<br />

you will quickly be able to identify the<br />

particular sights, sounds and especially smells<br />

that are unique to that area.<br />

Fez is best known for the production of<br />

leather goods at the iconic tanneries that<br />

feature on virtually any visual depiction of<br />

the city. A visit to the tanneries in the Souq<br />

Dabbhagin, next to the dyers' quarter, is a<br />

sensory experience of colours, bustle and<br />

stench. Now a UNESCO World Heritage<br />

Site, it is fascinating to visit the area and<br />

watch the tanners at work, balancing<br />

between vats of vibrant dyes before plunging<br />

into the one they need, while spectators<br />

ardently snap photos from the sidelines.<br />

Meknes and Voloubilis<br />

Only a short distance west of Fez, the fortunes<br />

of the small market town of Meknes took a<br />

dramatic turn when Sultan Moulay Ismail<br />

assumed power in the 17th century and chose<br />

it for his royal court. Huge palaces, harems and<br />

miles of walls pierced with arched gates were<br />

constructed. After his death, the city’s influence<br />

seeped away, and earthquakes and rain reduced<br />

his massive works to subsiding mud-bricks: only<br />

the monumental gates hint at its former glory.<br />

A different period of history awaits at nearby<br />

Voloubilis, one of the Roman Empire’s key<br />

Moroccan settlements. Among the remains of<br />

buildings and streets, the colourful and vivid<br />

mosaic floors are the real highlights.<br />

Doorway, Meknes<br />

www.audleytravel.com/morocco ● 01993 838 420 ● Morocco 73


Chefchaouen and the Rif Mountains<br />

The Rif Mountains<br />

Separating the bulk of Morocco from the<br />

Mediterranean, the northern Rif Mountains have<br />

a long and turbulent history. Few rulers have<br />

ever completely subdued the indigenous tribes,<br />

and some areas are still off limits due to the<br />

widespread cultivation of marijuana. Immediately<br />

north of Fez, the scenery is a patchwork of<br />

agricultural greens, becoming more classically<br />

mountainous further north and east, where the<br />

snow-capped Jebel Tidighine overlooks the<br />

rolling peaks to one side and the Mediterranean<br />

coast to the other. One of the wildest, least<br />

modernised areas of Morocco, the Rif is<br />

nevertheless an excellent, off-the-beaten-track<br />

destination for a bit of trekking and to escape<br />

the crowds of Marrakesh.<br />

Pottery from the Rif Mountains<br />

74<br />

Street in Chefchaouen<br />

Chefchaouen<br />

Chefchaouen is undoubtedly one of the prettiest<br />

towns in Morocco, with a somewhat misleading<br />

reputation as a hippy outpost. While there is<br />

undeniably a bohemian feel, the web of narrow<br />

alleys, paths and stairways winding around tightly<br />

packed, blue and white buildings provides a<br />

wonderful setting against the rugged backdrop<br />

of the mountains. With only a small medina,<br />

Chefchaouen is the perfect place to spend a<br />

couple of days exploring at your own relaxed<br />

pace. While accommodation choices are perhaps<br />

not as luxurious as elsewhere, there is a distinct<br />

small town charm that refuses to fade.<br />

CASA HASSAN, CHEFCHAOUEN<br />

Based in an unbeatable central location in the<br />

medina and renowned for its high quality local<br />

food, the Casa Hassan is Chefchaouen’s bestknown<br />

place to stay. The property reflects a<br />

combination of traditional Moroccan design with<br />

a touch of Andalusian influence that is relatively<br />

common in the north of the country. The eight<br />

rooms are simple but comfortable and stylishly<br />

designed, and some boast fireplaces for the<br />

cooler winter months. There is a roof terrace<br />

with great views over the medina and<br />

surrounding countryside, and a selection of cosy<br />

communal sitting areas.<br />

Casa Hassan, Chefchaouen


Cap Spartel Lighthouse, Tangier<br />

Musicians, Tangier<br />

Fishing boats, Tangier<br />

Tangier<br />

For many years, Tangier enjoyed the status of<br />

an International Free Zone, free of taxes and<br />

duty and jointly administered by the French,<br />

Spanish and British. This helped to create a<br />

cosmopolitan and somewhat raffish society.<br />

Something of this spirit lingers and life in Tangier<br />

has more of an edge than in other Moroccan<br />

cities. There is an attractive old medina which<br />

blends Islamic and Berber influences. There are<br />

also some wonderful examples of art deco<br />

architecture, dating back to the louche days of<br />

the 20th century. A couple of days exploring the<br />

medina and surrounding highlights, interrupted<br />

by some relaxation time at the beach, is the<br />

perfect way to experience Tangier.<br />

Doorway, Asilah<br />

Asilah<br />

Asilah is a sleepy town on the Atlantic Coast that<br />

is slowly developing a reputation akin to Essaouira<br />

in the 1990s. It boasts a small, beautifully<br />

preserved medina with a picturesque location<br />

right by the shoreline. The town itself has a<br />

Spanish feel, with lovely whitewashed buildings<br />

and public artwork on the walls of many of the<br />

narrow alleyways. There are some beaches in the<br />

vicinity, which are not ideal for sunbathing but<br />

excellent for a relaxing stroll. Easy to navigate<br />

and soothingly low key, Asilah is perfect for a<br />

day of relaxation between Morocco’s better<br />

known destinations.<br />

Man in traditional burnous, Tangier<br />

El Minzah, Tangier<br />

EL MINZAH, TANGIER<br />

The grand old dame of Tangier’s accommodation,<br />

El Minzah was built in the 1930s and has opened<br />

its doors to a parade of the great and the good<br />

throughout the city’s decadent history. Minutes<br />

from the medina and the main square of the city,<br />

the Grand Socco, the hotel is a little faded around<br />

the edges but retains an air of grandeur and<br />

glamour. There is a large pool and other facilities<br />

that you would expect from a top hotel, while<br />

most of the 140 rooms offer attractive sea and<br />

medina views.<br />

City walls, Asilah<br />

www.audleytravel.com/morocco ● 01993 838 420 ● Morocco 75


MOROCCO<br />

Essaouira<br />

Marrakesh<br />

High Atlas<br />

Mountains<br />

Man in Taroudant souk<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Morocco specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 420<br />

Getting around<br />

Morocco has an excellent road network covering<br />

most of the country. While some drives can be<br />

long, the scenery is often stunning, and covers a<br />

wide variety of terrain – from desert to mountain<br />

to coast. Most of your journeys will be in private<br />

air-conditioned vehicles with a driver. There is a<br />

limited train network between a few cities, but for<br />

most journeys road is the only option.<br />

Harbour, Essaouira<br />

76<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Morocco can be roughly divided into three<br />

climatic regions: the coast, the desert areas of the<br />

south, and the Rif and Atlas mountain ranges of<br />

the higher interior. Throughout the country, the<br />

temperature varies considerably over the course<br />

of a day and even on a summer evening a<br />

sweater may be necessary. In winter,<br />

temperatures can fall low enough for a<br />

widespread frost with snow on the mountains.<br />

Rain does fall during the winter, although not<br />

often and seldom in large amounts. The coastal<br />

regions can be visited year round: in the winter<br />

they are pleasantly mild, and bask in temperatures<br />

of mid-twenties Celsius in the summer. The high<br />

interior can also be visited year round, although it<br />

does get cold in winter, with averages in the<br />

high-teens Celsius. The southern desert areas<br />

experience a similar climate to the high interior,<br />

although summer temperatures are hot, with the<br />

average hovering around 40C.<br />

Time difference: Same as GMT, with<br />

seasonal differences<br />

Flight time from UK: 3.5 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Morocco on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Marrakesh, Mountains<br />

& Coast<br />

A great introduction to the country, this ten<br />

day trip lets you experience a diverse range of<br />

scenery and culture. Starting in vibrant Marrakesh,<br />

you move on to the pretty seaside town of<br />

Essaouira before finishing with time in the<br />

stunning High Atlas.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Fly from the UK to Marrakesh. Spend<br />

the night at a riad in the medina.<br />

A full day guided city tour of<br />

Marrakesh, ending as the sun sets<br />

over the magical Djema El Fna.<br />

A day at leisure to further explore<br />

the city, perhaps moving into the<br />

New Town to visit the tranquil<br />

Majorelle Gardens.<br />

Head west with a short drive to<br />

Essaouira on the Atlantic coast.<br />

A day to explore bohemian<br />

Essaouira.<br />

Another day to enjoy Essaouira’s<br />

picturesque medina and great<br />

seafood.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to the strikingly different<br />

scenery of the High Atlas Mountains.<br />

Take a guided hike or walk one of<br />

the many marked trails in the<br />

mountains.<br />

Enjoy another walk or absorb the<br />

stunning views from your hotel.<br />

Fly back to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

This itinerary could be extended by moving south<br />

and spending a night in the desert. Alternatively,<br />

if you are feeling energetic, spend longer in the<br />

High Atlas Mountains and trek to the summit of<br />

Mount Toubkal.


Suggested itineraries<br />

Rabat<br />

Fez<br />

Casablanca<br />

MOROCCO<br />

Meknes &<br />

Voloubilis<br />

Casablanca<br />

MOROCCO<br />

Asilah<br />

Tangier<br />

Chefchaouen<br />

Essaouira<br />

Marrakesh<br />

High Atlas<br />

Mountains<br />

Skoura<br />

The Erg<br />

Chebbi<br />

Marrakesh<br />

Ouarzazate<br />

Skoura<br />

The Erg<br />

Chebbi<br />

Rabat<br />

Casablanca<br />

Fez<br />

Meknes &<br />

Voloubilis<br />

Zagora<br />

Grand Tour of Morocco<br />

A grand tour exploring the main highlights of<br />

Morocco, including the imperial cities of Marrakesh,<br />

Fez, Meknes and Rabat, as well as the Sahara, the<br />

High Atlas Mountains and the coast.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Fly from the UK to Casablanca and<br />

spend the night at a city hotel.<br />

Visit the Hassan II Mosque before a<br />

short drive to Rabat.<br />

Stop at Meknes and Voloublis<br />

en route to your riad in the medina<br />

of Fez.<br />

A guided, full day city tour of<br />

timeless Fez.<br />

A long, scenic drive south to the<br />

desert and a night in a tent amongst<br />

the dunes of the Erg Chebbi.<br />

Journey the ‘route of 1,000 kasbahs’<br />

to Skoura, stopping off at the rugged<br />

Todra Gorge.<br />

A day at leisure to relax in the palm<br />

groves of Skoura.<br />

Drive the stunning Tizi-n-Tichka pass<br />

into the Atlas Mountains.<br />

Try a guided mountain trek or hike<br />

under your own steam from your<br />

accommodation.<br />

Head for the coast, to Essaouira’s<br />

medina perched on the Atlantic.<br />

The Desert Circuit<br />

This shorter eight day trip combines a stay in<br />

vibrant Marrakesh with the desert scenery in the<br />

south of the country.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Fly from the UK to Marrakesh.<br />

A full day guided city tour of<br />

bustling Marrakesh.<br />

Drive south via the enchanting<br />

kasbah of Telouet.<br />

Head for the desert via Todra Gorge<br />

and enjoy a night under the stars in<br />

the Erg Chebbi.<br />

Watch the sun rise over the desert<br />

before heading southwest to Zagora.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> along the Draa Valley back<br />

to Skoura.<br />

Take in the tranquil palm groves and<br />

crumbling kasbahs in the area.<br />

Fly from Ouarzazate to Casablanca<br />

and on to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

Spend time trekking in the High Atlas Mountains<br />

or relax in the coastal town of Essaouira.<br />

Northern Explorer<br />

Discover the highlights of northern Morocco<br />

including the cities of Fez, Rabat and Meknes;<br />

the Roman ruins at Voloubilis and Lixus; relaxed<br />

medinas in Asilah and Chafchaouen; and coastal<br />

history in Tangiers.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Fly from the UK to Casablanca and<br />

spend a night in the city.<br />

Visit the impressive Hassan II<br />

Mosque, imperial Meknes and Roman<br />

Voloubilis en route to Fez.<br />

Discover Fez with the help of a<br />

private guide.<br />

Another day to explore the medina<br />

of Fez.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> north to the picturesque,<br />

laid-back town of Chefchaouen.<br />

A day to explore the charming<br />

medina and verdant countryside<br />

around Chefchaouen.<br />

Head to Tangier for some time on<br />

Morocco’s northern coastline.<br />

Enjoy a guided tour of Tangier’s<br />

medina and other historic sights,<br />

before an afternoon roaming<br />

the beach.<br />

A short journey to Asilah’s relatively<br />

undiscovered and very pretty medina.<br />

Drive south along the coast to Rabat.<br />

Day 11<br />

A day to wander the medina and<br />

stroll along the beach.<br />

Day 11<br />

Spend a day exploring the quaint<br />

medina of Morocco’s capital.<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Drive inland to Marrakesh.<br />

A full day guided tour of the souqs,<br />

squares, palaces and gardens of<br />

Marrakesh.<br />

One more day at leisure in<br />

Marrakesh.<br />

Fly back to the UK.<br />

Day 12<br />

Return to Casablanca for a flight to<br />

the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

You could add a few days in vibrant Marrakesh,<br />

or take in the mountain scenery of the High Atlas.<br />

Grand Mosque, Chefchaouen<br />

Bedouin man in the Erg Chebbi<br />

www.audleytravel.com/morocco ● 01993 838 420 ● Morocco 77


Tunisia<br />

Tunisia’s reputation as just a<br />

beach destination is slowly<br />

changing, as attention turns to the<br />

cultural aspects of this small but<br />

fascinating Mediterranean country.<br />

Evidence of Tunisia’s chequered<br />

history can be found in the ruins of<br />

Carthage, the remains of its Roman<br />

past and in its Arab medinas and<br />

colonial towns. The mixture of<br />

influences has helped to shape modern<br />

Tunisia, which continues to take<br />

inspiration from both east and west.<br />

Aside from its historical legacy, there<br />

are enchanting landscapes to explore;<br />

from the mountains in the northwest,<br />

to the green pastures of the central<br />

Tell region and on to the dry, sandy<br />

expanses of the Sahara in the south.<br />

Proud of their history and culture,<br />

Tunisians are warm and welcoming<br />

hosts, eager to show off their country.<br />

Two men relaxing, Tunis<br />

3<br />

1 The medina of Tunis<br />

The UNESCO-protected<br />

medina has winding alleyways,<br />

mosques and souqs.<br />

7<br />

6<br />

1 2<br />

5<br />

4<br />

8<br />

2 The Bardo Museum<br />

One of the world’s finest<br />

collections of Roman mosaics,<br />

all housed within a beautiful<br />

former royal palace.<br />

3 Sidi Bou Said<br />

This village on the outskirts of<br />

Tunis has attracted many artists<br />

over the years, drawn by its<br />

picturesque setting overlooking<br />

the Bay of Tunis.<br />

4 El Jem<br />

The best-preserved amphitheatre<br />

of the Roman world.<br />

Mosaic, Bardo Museum<br />

5 Great Mosque of<br />

Kairouan<br />

The oldest mosque in North<br />

Africa, established during the<br />

Arab conquests of the 7th<br />

century AD.<br />

6 Dougga<br />

One of Africa’s great Roman<br />

cities, Dougga’s well-preserved<br />

buildings are enhanced by their<br />

rural location in the depths of<br />

the Tunisian countryside.<br />

7<br />

Tamerza<br />

In the southwest of Tunisia lies<br />

an intriguing landscape of narrow<br />

gorges and abandoned villages.<br />

8<br />

Jerba<br />

Fort of Borj Ghazi Mustapha, Jerba<br />

This small island has a unique<br />

culture that is different from the<br />

rest of the country.<br />

78


Amphitheatre, El Jem<br />

Tunis<br />

Central Tunis has two distinct areas, the<br />

UNESCO-protected Arab medina, and the new<br />

town, which was built during the colonial era on<br />

reclaimed land. Greater Tunis stretches east,<br />

across Lac de Tunis to the coastal suburbs of<br />

Carthage, Sidi Bou Said and Gammarth. The<br />

medina hides mosques, hammams and souqs, as<br />

well as beautifully restored houses, some of which<br />

have been converted into hotels and restaurants.<br />

The new town centres around Avenue Habib<br />

Bourguiba, a wide boulevard dotted with cafés.<br />

The architecture of this area is influenced by<br />

French styles, with many buildings showing hints<br />

of art deco design. Close to the centre is the<br />

Bardo Museum, which houses some of the<br />

best examples of Roman mosaics. The beauty<br />

of the mosaics is matched by their surroundings,<br />

the Bardo being a former royal palace with<br />

large vaulted rooms, stained glass and carved<br />

stucco ceilings.<br />

Sidi Bou Said<br />

Sidi Bou Said is a small village lying on the<br />

outskirts of the capital, overlooking the Bay of<br />

Tunis with unparalleled views to the Cap Bon<br />

Peninsula and Jebel Bou Kournine, a distinctive<br />

double-peaked mountain. Its whitewashed<br />

buildings with their blue windows and doors have<br />

been attracting artists for years and the cobbled<br />

streets offer respite from the bustle of central<br />

Tunis. The cafés dotted around the village are<br />

idyllic settings for sampling Tunisian mint tea,<br />

traditionally served with pine nuts.<br />

DAR SAID, SIDI BOU SAID<br />

Dar Said is a small family owned hotel at the<br />

heart of Sidi Bou Said. The house was originally<br />

a residence and dates back to the mid 19th<br />

century. Converted into a hotel in the 1990s, it<br />

has just 24 bedrooms and retains a quiet and<br />

intimate atmosphere. Featuring a small hammam<br />

and pool, with a terrace looking out on to the<br />

Mediterranean. Dar Zarrouk Restaurant is situated<br />

just opposite the hotel and serves delicious<br />

Tunisian and French cuisine.<br />

Kairouan<br />

Kairouan is the most sacred Islamic city in Tunisia<br />

and one of the holiest of Islam. Invading Arab<br />

forces arrived here in the 7th century AD and<br />

established the city, building the first mosque in<br />

North Africa. The Great Mosque still stands<br />

(though it has been rebuilt several times) and its<br />

simple architectural structure makes it a place of<br />

great serenity and an essential component of any<br />

visit to the town. The medina of Kairouan also<br />

has a number of interesting mosques and souqs<br />

and is known for its carpet manufacturing, making<br />

it the best place to purchase carpets in Tunisia.<br />

Great Mosque of Kairouan<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> in Tunisia<br />

Tunisia is within easy reach of the UK, with<br />

scheduled flights from both Heathrow and<br />

Gatwick. We usually organise trips with a car<br />

and driver, with guides available if you wish<br />

to explore some of the sites in a bit more<br />

detail. If you want more flexibility, then there<br />

is also the option of discovering the country<br />

independently on a self-drive tour. Some of<br />

the sites around Tunis can be very busy, but<br />

we can advise you on ways to escape the<br />

crowds and discover areas which most<br />

visitors never reach. While many operators<br />

offer beach holidays in places like Sousse<br />

and Hammamet, and include just a few<br />

excursions, Tunisia has some amazing sights<br />

and to experience these we recommend a<br />

more comprehensive tour of the country.<br />

Accommodation<br />

Tunisia has started to follow the Moroccan<br />

trend for converting old houses into hotels.<br />

These are atmospheric places to stay and can<br />

be found in Tunis, Sidi Bou Said and Jerba.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong>lers interested in experiencing rural<br />

Tunisian life may wish to consider a<br />

guesthouse near El Kef in the heart of the<br />

Tell region, or an olive farm located between<br />

Tunis and Kairouan. Elsewhere, there are<br />

international hotels and resorts available,<br />

most of which have excellent spa facilities<br />

along with swimming pools and beaches.<br />

Sidi Bou Said<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Tunisia, please<br />

see page 81.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Tunisia<br />

specialists 01993 838 445<br />

Tunisia 79


Ksar Ouled Soltane, near Tataouine<br />

Archaeological sites<br />

The ruins of Tunisia date from the Megalithic<br />

through to the Roman and Byzantine eras.<br />

With hundreds of registered archaeological<br />

sites, it would be impossible to visit them all<br />

in a short trip. Here we have highlighted four<br />

of the most important ones.<br />

Carthage<br />

The ruins of Carthage are northeast of<br />

central Tunis. Most of the sites were either<br />

destroyed or incorporated into later<br />

Roman sites. The Roman political slogan<br />

‘Carthago delenda est’ (Carthage must be<br />

destroyed) was carried out with ferocity by<br />

the invading legionaries.<br />

Carthage and the Bay of Tunis<br />

The Capitol, Dougga<br />

Bulla Regia<br />

Located in the west of Tunisia, Bulla Regia is<br />

known for its underground theatre and<br />

mosaics. Famed at the time for its loose<br />

morality, St Augustine passed through in the<br />

4th century, exhorting its inhabitants to<br />

behave in a more decorous manner.<br />

Dougga<br />

Dougga overlooks picturesque rolling<br />

countryside and olive tree orchards. The site<br />

features a range of ruins, from the monumental<br />

Capitol and Libyo-Punic Mausoleum to the<br />

more everyday bathhouses and latrines.<br />

El Jem<br />

The amphitheatre at El Jem towers over the<br />

surrounding area and can be seen from miles<br />

away when travelling to the site along the<br />

Roman roads.<br />

The southwest<br />

The south of Tunisia feels distinctly different from<br />

the northern parts of the country, in part due to<br />

its desert climate. In the southwest is the village<br />

of Tamerza, surrounded by a series of spectacular<br />

gorges and waterfalls. On the edge of Tunisia’s<br />

largest salt flat, the Chott El Jerid, lies the desert<br />

oasis of Tozeur. Birthplace of Tunisia’s literary<br />

hero, Abou Kacem El-Chebbi, Tozeur is an<br />

interesting place to visit for many reasons, not<br />

least to taste the famous dates known as ‘deglet<br />

en-nour’ (fingers of light). The town’s buildings<br />

are constructed using mud brick, laid in extremely<br />

complex patterns, which give even the most<br />

ordinary street an ornate façade.<br />

The southeast<br />

The southeast is the gateway to the Sahara, with<br />

visits to the rolling dunes possible around Ksar<br />

Ghilane, a remote desert outpost. Further east<br />

are a series of Berber settlements which feature<br />

architectural feats of engineering, including the<br />

distinctive ksours (fortified granaries) around<br />

Tataouine, and troglodyte dwellings, which are<br />

found several metres below ground. These are<br />

designed to protect their inhabitants from the<br />

effects of the Saharan sun. The village of Matmata<br />

has the best examples of these dwellings, some<br />

of which are still in use and have been chosen as<br />

film locations by Hollywood directors.<br />

80


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

Lady weaving, Jerba<br />

Abandoned village of Tamerza<br />

Jerba<br />

The island of Jerba is thought to be the<br />

‘Land of the Lotus Eaters’ in the legendary<br />

stories of Ulysses and is a charming, laid-back<br />

place to visit, especially at the end of a tour<br />

of Tunisia. The division from the mainland is<br />

apparent in the distinct character and way of<br />

life of the Jerban people. Bicycles and mopeds<br />

are still the preferred modes of transport, so<br />

a peaceful atmosphere reigns. Jerba has<br />

some interesting Islamic architecture, as well<br />

El Ghriba Synagogue, which is testament to the<br />

long history of the island’s Jewish population.<br />

The itinerary shown is designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and is a route that<br />

works particularly well. We can use this as a basis<br />

to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Tunisia specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 445<br />

Getting around<br />

Distances in Tunisia are relatively short so road<br />

travel is entirely feasible, this can be with a driver<br />

or you can choose to self-drive. Roads between<br />

towns are in good condition, with one motorway<br />

now linking the north and south of the country.<br />

Cities can be very busy, but once out in the rural<br />

areas, the roads are much quieter.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~ ~<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Tunisia’s climate is ruled by its proximity to the<br />

Mediterranean making the winter months (from<br />

November to early March), cool, grey and quite<br />

damp, and therefore not particularly good times<br />

to travel. The best time to go is the late spring,<br />

when the temperatures are warm and the spring<br />

flowers are in bloom around the archaeological<br />

sites. The south should be avoided in high<br />

summer because it’s too hot, but this is a good<br />

time to visit the north as the archaeological sites<br />

are even quieter than usual.<br />

Time difference: GMT+1 hour<br />

Flight time from UK: 3 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline<br />

prices for your trip to Tunisia on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Roman Tunisia<br />

This itinerary includes visits to the major Roman<br />

sites in the north of Tunisia, giving a real insight<br />

into the classical history of the country and the<br />

way of life in typical Roman cities such as Dougga.<br />

In addition, there is time to explore the Arab<br />

medinas of Tunis, El Kef and Kairouan and enjoy<br />

Tunisia’s coastline at Sidi Bou Said and Carthage.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Bulla Regia<br />

El Kef<br />

Dougga<br />

Maktar<br />

Sidi Bou Said<br />

Kairouan<br />

Carthage<br />

Tunis<br />

Thuburbo Majus<br />

El Jem<br />

Fly from the UK to Tunis, where you<br />

stay for two nights.<br />

Morning visit to the Bardo Museum<br />

followed by an afternoon guided tour<br />

of Tunis medina.<br />

Drive to the Roman sites of Bulla<br />

Regia and Dougga en route to El Kef<br />

where you will spend the night.<br />

Head south from El Kef to Kairouan,<br />

stopping to visit the Roman site of<br />

Maktar on your way.<br />

Explore Kairouan in the morning and<br />

then travel to El Jem to visit the<br />

amphitheatre and mosaics.<br />

Head north to Sidi Bou Said with the<br />

chance to visit the ruins of Thuburbo<br />

Majus on the way.<br />

Explore the Punic and Roman ruins<br />

of Carthage in the morning, with the<br />

rest of the day free to spend in Sidi<br />

Bou Said.<br />

Fly from Tunis to the UK, arriving<br />

back the same day.<br />

Stay longer<br />

The itinerary could be extended by exploring<br />

the south; visiting Tamerza, Tozeur, Ksar Ghilane<br />

or Jerba, forming a grand tour of Tunisia and<br />

giving a comprehensive insight into Tunisia’s<br />

history and culture.<br />

Jerban women wearing traditional dress<br />

Er-Riadh Mosque, Jerba<br />

Traditional door, Sidi Bou Said<br />

www.audleytravel.com/tunisia ● 01993 838 445 ● Tunisia 81


Libya<br />

Libya is a vast country which, in<br />

recent years, has experienced an<br />

interesting and controversial political<br />

history. With abundant archaeological<br />

sites and beautiful natural landscapes,<br />

it has a lot to offer the more<br />

adventurous visitor, while a range<br />

of historical influences has created a<br />

modern day cultural melting pot.<br />

In classical times, the Phoenicians,<br />

Greeks and Romans all left their mark<br />

at sites such as Cyrene and Leptis<br />

Magna along the north coast. Berber<br />

populations dominate in the west of<br />

the country, with their own customs<br />

and architecture. In the south, you will<br />

find traditional desert cultures and a<br />

warm welcome from the tribal Tuareg<br />

people, many of whom count the<br />

Akakus Mountains and the Ubari<br />

Sand Sea as their home.<br />

Leptis Magna<br />

4<br />

Ghadames<br />

An extraordinary desert town,<br />

Ghadames is quite unlike any<br />

other settlement in Africa.<br />

5<br />

The Ubari Sand Sea<br />

4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3<br />

Libyan men<br />

1 Tripoli medina<br />

The Tripoli medina exudes a<br />

distinctive charm and is a place<br />

where locals go about their<br />

daily lives.<br />

2 Leptis Magna<br />

Libya’s best known Roman site,<br />

the magnificent ruins of Leptis<br />

Magna have an awe-inspiring<br />

location beside the<br />

Mediterranean.<br />

Towering dunes form the<br />

Ubari Sand Sea in the south<br />

of Libya, but even more<br />

astounding are the deep, salty<br />

lakes, perfect for a swim after<br />

a desert expedition.<br />

6 Ancient rock art in<br />

the Akakus Mountains<br />

Weird and wonderful<br />

geographical features aside,<br />

the Akakus Mountains conceal<br />

some of the greatest examples<br />

of ancient rock art to be found<br />

in the world.<br />

3<br />

Cyrene<br />

Sited on a hillside overlooking a<br />

plain that stretches all the way<br />

to the Mediterranean, Cyrene is<br />

still only partially excavated. It is<br />

a delight for historians and<br />

photographers alike.<br />

Desert landscape, Akakus Mountains<br />

82


Libyan men outside a Tripoli mosque<br />

Tripoli and surrounds<br />

Tripoli is, like many North African cities, divided<br />

into two distinct areas, the traditional Arab<br />

medina and the colonial era new town. The<br />

medina is unlike many others across the region in<br />

that it remains a place for locals to go about their<br />

daily lives; living, trading and working within its<br />

walls. The new town has wonderful colonial<br />

buildings, many of which have been converted<br />

over the years: the cathedral became a mosque,<br />

and the castle and palace now house the National<br />

Museum and the Libya Museum. Outside Tripoli<br />

are the two major Roman sites of the region,<br />

Leptis Magna and Sabratha. Leptis Magna was the<br />

birthplace of the Roman Empire’s only African<br />

emperor and its importance is clear to see in the<br />

monumental arches and the grandeur of its public<br />

buildings. Sabratha is sometimes overlooked and<br />

like Leptis Magna it lies next to the Mediterranean<br />

Sea. Its theatre is of particular interest, having<br />

been fully restored to its former glory.<br />

Theatre, Sabratha<br />

Cyrenaica<br />

The east of Libya is known as Cyrenaica, taken<br />

from the name of its most important<br />

archaeological site, Cyrene. The region is famed<br />

for its long history of rebellion and its Green<br />

Mountains, which are covered in pine trees.<br />

It was here that the independence leader, Omar<br />

Al-Mukhtar, hid during the revolt against the<br />

Italians. There is a wealth of archaeological ruins<br />

and even small sites such as Tocra and Ptolemais<br />

reveal plenty about the classical history of the<br />

area. Qasr Libya, the ruins of a Roman villa, has<br />

some of the country’s most impressive mosaics<br />

and Slontah is an unusual pre-Islamic temple.<br />

A short detour to see this tiny site is essential.<br />

Ghadames<br />

Ghadames is a gateway to the Sahara, its location<br />

on Libya’s borders explained by its history as a<br />

staging post on Africa’s trading routes. This<br />

isolated position meant that Ghadames developed<br />

a unique culture. The old walled part of the town<br />

has been declared a World Heritage Site by<br />

UNESCO, and here you will find a tranquil<br />

ancient city made of mud, lime and palm tree<br />

trunks. A network of covered alleyways and<br />

attached roofs allows passage from one house<br />

to the next.<br />

Street in Ghadames<br />

The Fezzan<br />

Southwest Libya was known as the Fezzan during<br />

the colonial period and includes the sweeping<br />

desert landscapes of the Akakus Mountains and<br />

the Ubari Sand Sea. These areas are best<br />

explored on a desert expedition, travelling in<br />

4x4 vehicles with experienced guides and drivers.<br />

You will camp in the wild, miles from the nearest<br />

villages. At least five days are required to make<br />

the most of this trip, so that you can see the best<br />

examples of the ancient rock art found in the<br />

Akakus. You can also enjoy the unique silence in<br />

the desert and the exhilarating drives over the<br />

Ubari dunes, leaving just enough time for a swim<br />

at one of the desert lakes. Though not without<br />

their hardships, these desert expeditions reward<br />

travellers with spectacular vistas.<br />

Ubari Sand Sea<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> in Libya<br />

Libya is just a short flight from Europe, but<br />

it is a large country so it will take at least<br />

twelve days to see the main archaeological<br />

sites as well as Tripoli and Ghadames. Even<br />

before the revolution, tourism infrastructure<br />

was in its infancy, so it is best to travel to<br />

Libya with an adventurous spirit. The<br />

standard of accommodation and service may<br />

be well below what would be expected in<br />

other countries in the region, and visitors<br />

should not be surprised if their internal flights<br />

or accommodation are changed with little<br />

notice. As long as you bear all these points in<br />

mind, you will be rewarded by a warm<br />

welcome from the Libyan people, who are<br />

keen to re-engage with the outside world.<br />

For the duration of the trip, you will be<br />

accompanied by a Libyan guide and driver<br />

and if you do venture into the desert then<br />

you will be travelling in 4x4 vehicles,<br />

accompanied by experienced drivers, guides<br />

and a cook.<br />

Accommodation<br />

Most places in Libya have only one or two<br />

accommodation options, and hotels in places<br />

like Ghadames and Cyrenaica tend to cater<br />

for large groups of visitors and are a little<br />

characterless. The exception to this is Tripoli<br />

where there are a number of five star,<br />

international hotels which welcome visitors<br />

and business people, as well as a characterful<br />

option within the walls of the medina and a<br />

wonderfully welcoming guesthouse. On<br />

desert expeditions, you will be staying in<br />

small tents which are easy to pitch, although<br />

you may wish to spend one night out in the<br />

open for a view of the stars.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Libya, please<br />

see our website.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Libya<br />

specialists 01993 838 435<br />

Libya 83


Iran<br />

Prepare to be surprised. This huge<br />

country, three times the size of France,<br />

contains a bewildering array of world-class<br />

sites, lasting testament to a tumultuous<br />

5,000 year history that has left an indelible<br />

mark on both East and West. The country’s<br />

bounty of historic places is without equal in<br />

the Islamic world. The jewel in the crown is<br />

Esfahan, a beautiful city and shining<br />

example of glorious Islamic architecture and<br />

Persian culture, it has one of the biggest and<br />

most spectacular city squares in the world.<br />

Together with Shiraz and nearby Persepolis,<br />

this triumvirate forms the core of any<br />

journey to the country. Away from these<br />

highlights, there is much else to drink in. In<br />

the northwest the city of Tabriz has been<br />

famous for the manufacture of carpets for a<br />

thousand years. In the far south are the<br />

ancient remains of the Elamite civilisation<br />

at Choqa Zanbil. In the centre are the<br />

picturesque villages of the Zagros<br />

Mountains, giving way to the deserts of<br />

Eastern Iran and the cities of Kerman.<br />

To the east is the city of Mashhad, home to<br />

the mausoleum of Imam Reza, a direct<br />

descendant of the Prophet Mohammed.<br />

84


<strong>Audley</strong> in Iran<br />

7<br />

5<br />

2<br />

6<br />

1<br />

4<br />

3<br />

We feel that Iran is a greatly underrated<br />

destination and much misunderstood. We<br />

have taken the time to go and visit ourselves,<br />

to see what the situation is truly like. Every<br />

one of us who has been has come back<br />

enamoured with the friendliness of the<br />

people, the diversity of the culture and the<br />

sheer unexpectedness of it all. For those<br />

who want to really discover every nook and<br />

cranny, we suggest having a national guide,<br />

who would accompany you throughout your<br />

time in the country. For those who prefer a<br />

little more independence, we can arrange a<br />

driver to accompany you – he or she would<br />

speak enough English to communicate, but<br />

would leave you to discover the sights.<br />

Whichever style of travel you choose –<br />

you can be sure of a memorable visit to<br />

this fascinating country.<br />

Accommodation<br />

4 Yazd<br />

This desert city has winding<br />

lanes and wind towers.<br />

5 Abyaneh<br />

Experience rural Iran in this<br />

picturesque, verdant village.<br />

7 Kashan<br />

A majestic bazaar and some<br />

beautiful Qajar era mansions.<br />

As a result of sanctions, there are none of<br />

the international hotel chains in Iran that are<br />

found in most other countries of the world.<br />

The standards of service and facilities in<br />

Iranian hotels are not what they might be,<br />

however, every place of interest does have<br />

clean, comfortable options. While there are<br />

many reasons to visit Iran, the quality of the<br />

hotels there is not one of them. A few<br />

places, Yazd in particular, do have some<br />

character options which we try to use<br />

whenever possible.<br />

Wind towers, Yazd<br />

1 Esfahan<br />

Iran’s masterpiece, an exquisite<br />

city and one of the most<br />

beautiful in the Islamic world.<br />

6 Tehran<br />

Iran’s capital is difficult to love –<br />

but it has some great museums<br />

and impressive palaces.<br />

Teahouse, Esfahan<br />

2 Shiraz<br />

A relaxed city and the final<br />

resting place of many of Iran’s<br />

great poets, Shiraz is an ideal<br />

base from which to explore the<br />

region’s antiquities.<br />

3 Persepolis<br />

Marvel at this ancient city, once<br />

the heart of one of the world’s<br />

mightiest empires, hidden under<br />

the sands for thousands of years.<br />

Find out more<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Iran, please see<br />

page 89.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Iran<br />

specialists 01993 838 265<br />

Tomb of Hafez, Shiraz<br />

Statue, Persepolis<br />

Iran 85


Bazaar, Shiraz<br />

Tehran<br />

There is nowhere better in Iran than Tehran to<br />

get an overview of Persian history and culture.<br />

The museums here are amongst the best in the<br />

Middle East and are an essential part of any visit.<br />

The pick of them is probably the Golestan Palace,<br />

though the National Museum of Iran and the<br />

National Jewels Museum are fantastic to stroll<br />

through. Like any other capital Tehran has its<br />

fair share of problems. On some days the traffic<br />

can seem like a glacial flow, but try not to let<br />

this negative image blot out the many positives<br />

of a visit here.<br />

Shiraz<br />

There’s no wine here. If there were this would<br />

be the most convivial city in the Middle East. The<br />

locals are friendly, liberal and literate; the climate<br />

is pleasant for most of the year; and the nearby<br />

attractions of Persepolis and Naqsh-e-Rostam are<br />

the equal of anything in Athens or Rome. If you<br />

like bazaars then welcome to the best one in Iran,<br />

selling everything from carpets to cake under a<br />

vaulted ceiling dating back 250 years. Shiraz also<br />

excels in architecture – indeed many of its finest<br />

buildings were built to rival Esfahan.<br />

Detail, Golestan Palace, Tehran<br />

Persepolis and the<br />

Persian Empire<br />

Beneath the searing heat of the Persian sun,<br />

backed by Mt Rahmat, lie the ruins of the<br />

once-great Achaemenid Empire. Smothered<br />

in sand and rock until the 1930s, this amazing<br />

site was once a religious and cultural<br />

powerhouse, dominating peoples as disparate<br />

as the Scythians of Siberia and the Copts of<br />

Ethiopia. It is this ancient empire that<br />

has given today’s Iranians a distinctly<br />

un-Arabic culture and character. Whilst most<br />

Iranians see themselves as Islamic, they do<br />

not consider themselves as Arabic, but as<br />

distinctly Iranian or Persian. This is a direct<br />

consequence of the vast empire once<br />

controlled from Persepolis, which continues<br />

to loom large in the national psyche.<br />

Columns of the Great Hall, Persepolis<br />

Carving detail, Persepolis<br />

Persepolis succumbed finally to Alexander<br />

the Great, whose thirst for conquest was so<br />

thoroughly slaked here that he left only<br />

rubble – though this alone is supremely<br />

impressive, reminding the casual visitor<br />

of the sheer depth and longevity of Persian<br />

history and culture. Anyone with even a<br />

passing interest in antiquity should make a<br />

visit here their first priority.<br />

86


Bridge of 33 arches, Esfahan Iman Mosque, Esfahan Ceiling of Iman Mosque, Esfahan<br />

Shah Abbas, who made Esfahan his capital<br />

Esfahan<br />

Imagine an architectural portfolio so astonishing<br />

in its craftsmanship that it epitomises the best of<br />

five hundred years of Islamic culture, and you<br />

have imagined Esfahan. There are at least a dozen<br />

sights of dazzling quality here, including three of<br />

the finest religious buildings anywhere – the Jame,<br />

Imam and Sheikh Lotfollah Mosques. These would<br />

rank alongside the glories of Damascus,<br />

Samarkand and Istanbul in any list of the mustsees<br />

of the Islamic world. Nothing can prepare<br />

you for the heart-stopping moment when you<br />

first see the scale and grandeur of Imam Square,<br />

the world’s second largest public space, containing<br />

within it the zenith of Persian art and architecture.<br />

Walking along the banks of the Zayandeh River,<br />

exploring the Armenian quarter or simply<br />

relaxing in a teahouse, Esfahan is an unmitigated<br />

delight and one of the best places in Iran to<br />

meet local people, for whom this city is their<br />

proudest achievement.<br />

Schoolgirls playing, Esfahan<br />

THE ABBASI, ESFAHAN<br />

Built around the remains of a caravanserai<br />

originally established by Shah Abbas, The Abbasi<br />

is Esfahan’s, if not Iran’s, best and most<br />

characterful hotel – though as with the rest of<br />

Iran, do not expect outstanding service. In many<br />

respects, The Abbasi is like a museum. Everything<br />

is on a grand scale, and walking into the huge<br />

courtyard cannot fail to impress. There is a<br />

swimming pool and sauna (single sex only,<br />

available on a rotational basis) and a choice of<br />

attractive restaurants, with outdoor dining in the<br />

central courtyard a real treat in spring and<br />

summer. The location, within walking distance of<br />

Imam Square, cannot be faulted. The ornate<br />

breakfast room is remarkable and may just be<br />

the grandest room you’ll ever have breakfast in!<br />

Courtyard at The Abbasi, Esfahan<br />

Carpet shop, Esfahan<br />

Iman Square, Esfahan<br />

www.audleytravel.com/iran ● 01993 838 265 ● Iran 87


Badgirs, Yazd<br />

Mosaic at Friday mosque, Yazd<br />

Woman with her donkey, Abyaneh<br />

Old town, Yazd<br />

Yazd<br />

The centre of Iran is dominated by the Zagros<br />

mountains and the Dasht-e Kavir desert.<br />

Squeezed between the two is Yazd, the centre<br />

of Zoroastrianism and an excellent place to<br />

walk through and explore. The architecture<br />

here is unique in Iran, particularly the traditional<br />

badgir towers – providing an ancient form of<br />

air-conditioning to the adobe houses below.<br />

Yazd is also home to some excellent, characterful<br />

accommodation options tucked away in the<br />

corners of the bazaar.<br />

Courtyard hotel, Yazd<br />

COURTYARD HOTELS, YAZD<br />

Yazd has always been a wealthy town owing to<br />

its location on key trade routes. In the 18th and<br />

19th centuries, merchants in the town built grand<br />

homes, set around several courtyards. Some of<br />

these have now been converted into hotels, and<br />

offer some of the country’s most characterful<br />

accommodation. Many are in the heart of the<br />

old town, amongst winding lanes, adding to the<br />

atmosphere. Two of our favourites are the Hotel<br />

Dad and the Fahadan, but there are many others.<br />

Village of Abyaneh<br />

Further afield<br />

Most visitors to Iran take in the key cities of<br />

Esfahan, Shiraz and Yazd, but this is a large,<br />

diverse country, with much else to offer. An<br />

easy place to add on to an itinerary is the village<br />

of Abyaneh, close to Esfahan. This pretty village<br />

is unspoilt, accessible, and gives a taste of rural<br />

life in Iran. To the north of the capital are the<br />

Alborz Mountains and the Caspian Sea. Heading<br />

west, Kurds and Azaris start to dominate, and<br />

the landscape is surprisingly verdant. The city<br />

of Tabriz, home to some of the world’s greatest<br />

carpet makers is a great base to explore the<br />

surrounding region – including the village of<br />

Kandovan, where the entire population lives<br />

in caves.<br />

Between Tehran and the Iraqi border are the<br />

Kurdish provinces, full of precipitous mountain<br />

villages, stark and haunting scenery and a culture<br />

that has weathered the vicissitudes of history for<br />

thousands of years. East of Tehran, the landscape<br />

becomes much drier and desert like. The city of<br />

Mashhad, near the Turkmenistan border is home<br />

to Iran’s holiest shrine, the tomb of Shia Islam’s<br />

eighth Imam, Imam Reza. A visit here is to truly<br />

enter the heart of the Shia, and therefore the<br />

heart of the Iranian experience.<br />

Building for performing of rituals, Yazd<br />

88<br />

Zoroastrian Fire Temple, Yazd


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Iran specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Esfahan<br />

Tehran<br />

Abyaneh<br />

Yazd<br />

Tehran<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 265<br />

Shiraz<br />

Persepolis<br />

Esfahan<br />

Getting around<br />

Yazd<br />

Once in Iran, we suggest using private vehicles to<br />

give you the maximum flexibility. These are of a<br />

western standard, air conditioned and will be<br />

driven by experienced, safe drivers used to<br />

dealing with the sometimes hectic traffic<br />

conditions in Iranian cities.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

~ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Considering its location, Iran has unusually<br />

diverse weather. The north is very hot in summer<br />

and cold in winter. In the south you’re in the<br />

Persian Gulf, so expect pretty warm days even in<br />

December and January. Broadly speaking the best<br />

times of year to visit are in spring and autumn,<br />

when there are no extremes of temperature in<br />

most places.<br />

Time difference: GMT+3.5 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 6 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />

for your trip to Iran on our website, alternatively<br />

please call our specialists to discuss your plans.<br />

Classic Iran<br />

This 13 day trip is a comprehensive visit to this<br />

most fascinating of countries. Starting in Tehran,<br />

you’ll visit the desert town of Yazd, Persepolis, as<br />

well as the incredible city of Esfahan. Giving you a<br />

taste of rural life in Iran, you’ll also spend a night<br />

in the pretty village of Abyaneh.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Fly from London to Tehran overnight.<br />

After time to relax, start exploring<br />

the Iranian capital.<br />

Visit the Qajar era Golestan Palace,<br />

the Carpet Museum and take in the<br />

impressive National Jewels Museum.<br />

Drive to the village of Abyaneh.<br />

Spend the afternoon walking in<br />

the village.<br />

Drive to Yazd, stopping en-route at<br />

Nain, centre of carpet production.<br />

Spend the day exploring Yazd, in the<br />

afternoon visit ancient Zoroastrian<br />

sights including the Towers of Silence.<br />

Continue to Shiraz, via Pasargadae,<br />

location of the tomb of Cyrus<br />

the Great.<br />

Leave the city to see Persepolis, in<br />

the evening explore Shiraz’s bazaars.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Esfahan. Take a sunset stroll<br />

along the Zayandeh River.<br />

Take in Imam Square and the<br />

spectacular Imam and Sheikh Lotfallah<br />

Mosques, and Ali Qapu and Chehel<br />

Sotun Palaces.<br />

A day at leisure to continue<br />

exploring Esfahan.<br />

Return to Tehran via the Fin Gardens<br />

in Kashan and Qom, the heartland of<br />

the Islamic Revolution in Iran.<br />

An early start for your return flight<br />

back to the UK.<br />

Extensions<br />

Iran can potentially be combined with the<br />

countries of Central Asia and the Silk Route,<br />

to make a unique and memorable trip.<br />

Iran Uncovered<br />

This trip is designed to give you an overview of<br />

the major sites and is perfect for those with less<br />

time. Starting in Tehran, you drive to the intriguing<br />

desert city of Yazd. From here you continue to<br />

Esfahan to savour the stunning architecture and<br />

beauty of Iman Square, before returning to Tehran<br />

for a final night.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Fly from London to Tehran arriving<br />

the following morning.<br />

Transfer to your hotel for a few<br />

hours to relax and unwind, then<br />

explore the Iranian capital.<br />

Drive to Yazd via Qom and Nain.<br />

Spend the day exploring the desert<br />

city of Yazd.<br />

Drive onto Esfahan, arriving at<br />

lunchtime.<br />

A full day tour of Esfahan.<br />

After a morning in Esfahan, return<br />

to Tehran.<br />

Return to the UK, with a late<br />

afternoon arrival.<br />

Stay longer<br />

If you have a few extra days you can include<br />

Shiraz and Persepolis as in our Classic Iran trip.<br />

Carving detail, Persepolis<br />

Mosque, Shiraz<br />

www.audleytravel.com/iran ● 01993 838 265 ● Iran 89


Oman<br />

Oman mirrors most people’s images of<br />

the Arabian region and lives up to<br />

these expectations. Part of this is down to<br />

the remarkable natural scenery, part to its<br />

heritage and part to the hospitable nature of<br />

the people. Geographically, the country is<br />

spectacular. The Hajar Mountains soar into<br />

the sky along Oman’s spine, riven by sheer<br />

canyons which drop away, revealing the<br />

contorted inner strata of the rock. The golden<br />

dunes of the Wahiba Sands give way to<br />

narrow wadis that carve through the<br />

landscape and hide deep, cool pools of water.<br />

Untouched white-sand beaches fringe the<br />

Indian Ocean, and some offer the rare<br />

privilege of seeing nesting turtles. Oman has<br />

looked after its heritage well, and the old<br />

forts have been expertly restored. Modern<br />

developments mirror original architectural<br />

style, and remain low-rise, allowing the old<br />

and new to sit alongside each other in<br />

harmony. Muscat is a vibrant capital and<br />

the mountain town of Nizwa is famous for<br />

its Friday market, with people coming from<br />

far and wide to trade their livestock.<br />

Wherever you go in Oman you will be met<br />

with typical Arab hospitality.<br />

90


<strong>Audley</strong> in Oman<br />

6<br />

2<br />

5<br />

1<br />

3<br />

4<br />

Although the farthest of the Arab countries<br />

from the UK, Oman offers an easy<br />

introduction to the Middle East region.<br />

A short trip of around ten days is sufficient<br />

for a visit to the capital in conjunction with<br />

an exploration of the interior of the country.<br />

This will include many contrasting landscapes<br />

and interesting insights into the traditions and<br />

culture of Oman. A longer trip of two weeks<br />

would be suitable for those wishing to<br />

discover areas such as the Dhofar region,<br />

surrounding Salalah, and the Musandam<br />

Peninsula. Your trip could be done with car<br />

and driver or, if you prefer, you can drive<br />

yourself. A tour to Oman can be combined<br />

with a visit to the United Arab Emirates or<br />

countries further afield, such as Thailand,<br />

India, Sri Lanka or the Maldives.<br />

Accommodation<br />

3 The Wahiba Sands<br />

Miles of towering dunes and<br />

one of the best places to<br />

experience the desert in<br />

the region.<br />

Man at Nizwa’s Friday market<br />

6 Musandam Peninsula<br />

One of the most unusual<br />

coastlines in the region, with<br />

outstanding opportunities<br />

for snorkelling.<br />

Other than in Muscat, most places in Oman<br />

will have only one or two accommodation<br />

options. In the capital there is a good range<br />

of international hotels of various styles and<br />

standards, with a corresponding range of<br />

costs. You are likely to have more than one<br />

stay in Muscat during your trip, so you may<br />

wish to choose two different hotels here.<br />

Elsewhere there are fewer choices, but our<br />

specialists regularly go to inspect the hotels<br />

and are therefore happy to recommend the<br />

best options in places such as Nizwa, Salalah<br />

and the Wahiba Sands, where there is a<br />

small range of accommodation available.<br />

4 Turtles at Ras Al Jinz<br />

The beach here is the place to<br />

see green turtles which populate<br />

the seas around Oman.<br />

Beaches<br />

Oman has thousands of<br />

kilometres of coastline with<br />

superb beaches of white sand.<br />

Wadi Ghul<br />

5 Nizwa’s Friday market<br />

The Friday market at Nizwa<br />

gives an insight into traditional<br />

ways of life in Oman.<br />

Frankincense<br />

Oman’s prosperity in times past<br />

was due to its important role in<br />

the frankincense trade.<br />

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat<br />

Find out more<br />

1 The Sultan Qaboos<br />

Grand Mosque in Muscat<br />

One of the largest mosques in<br />

the world, the Grand Mosque<br />

can accommodate 20,000<br />

worshippers.<br />

2 Wadi Ghul &<br />

Wadi Nakheer<br />

The sheer vertical drop into<br />

Wadi Ghul and Wadi Nakheer<br />

has to be seen to be believed.<br />

Young Bedouin, Wahiba Sands<br />

For suggested itineraries and practical<br />

information about travel in Oman, please<br />

see page 98.<br />

☎<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Interactive maps and features,<br />

further suggested itineraries,<br />

accommodation, climate information<br />

and articles written by our specialists.<br />

Discuss your plans with our Oman<br />

specialists 01993 838 430<br />

Oman 91


Muttrah Corniche, Muscat<br />

Muscat<br />

Muscat is the capital of Oman and stretches for<br />

several kilometres along the coast. The oldest<br />

part of the town is the natural harbour marked<br />

by the forts of Jalali and Mirani, which guard the<br />

walled city and the Sultan’s palace. Displays of<br />

traditional costume, jewellery and weaponry can<br />

be seen at Bait Al Zubair, a family house<br />

converted into a small museum. The nearby<br />

corniche at Muttrah is a picturesque spot. The<br />

houses here have delicately styled balconies, a<br />

remnant of the Portuguese influence on the city.<br />

Qurm, north of the old city, is a residential area<br />

but is also where many of the hotels are, close to<br />

a white-sand beach. The Sultan Qaboos Grand<br />

Mosque dominates the skyline, unsurprising given<br />

that it is one of the largest mosques in the world,<br />

able to accommodate 20,000 worshippers.<br />

SHANGRI LA BARR AL-JISSAH<br />

RESORT & SPA,MUSCAT<br />

A 40 minute drive from the airport and a<br />

short distance from the old city of Muscat,<br />

the Shangri La Barr Al-Jissah Resort and Spa<br />

offers typical Omani hospitality and luxurious<br />

accommodation. Comprising three hotels<br />

(Al Waha, Al Bandar and Al Husn), over 20<br />

restaurants and cafes and an exhaustive range of<br />

leisure facilities, the resort is perfect for relaxing<br />

at the end of a longer tour through Oman. It is<br />

set on a private bay, with the white sands and<br />

clear turquoise waters framed by the deep red<br />

of the rocky mountains behind.<br />

AL BUSTAN PALACE,MUSCAT<br />

After a multi-million dollar investment and<br />

renovation, the renowned Al Bustan Palace<br />

re-opened in 2008, once again providing first-rate<br />

service and accommodation. The closest hotel to<br />

old Muscat, the Al Bustan boasts a long stretch<br />

of private beach and beautifully maintained<br />

garden. A soaring atrium, richly decorated in a<br />

traditional style with a crystal chandelier and<br />

fountain, greets you as you enter the hotel. The<br />

style of the 250 rooms reflects local traditional<br />

design combined with state-of-the-art facilities.<br />

All have balconies with views of the sea or the<br />

mountainous landscape behind.<br />

Shangri La Barr Al-Jissah Resort & Spa, Muscat<br />

THE CHEDI,MUSCAT<br />

The Chedi is one of the finest hotels in the<br />

country. Its series of low-rise buildings are set in<br />

beautifully tended gardens that are reflected in<br />

pools of still water, typical of Islamic gardens. The<br />

interior suggests a strong Asian influence: rooms<br />

are decorated with dark wood, slatted blinds,<br />

low beds and crisp white linen. The restaurant is<br />

known as one of the best places to eat in Muscat,<br />

with a menu serving Arab, Mediterranean, Asian<br />

and Indian cuisine. A recent addition is the spa<br />

and the 103 metre-long swimming pool.<br />

Al Bustan Palace, Muscat<br />

92<br />

The pool at The Chedi, Muscat


Sifa Beach, near Muscat<br />

Local man at Muttrah Souq, Muscat<br />

Old Muscat in the evening<br />

THE INTERCONTINENTAL,MUSCAT<br />

The InterContinental in Muscat is one of the older<br />

international hotels in the city, but remains one of<br />

the best value and most popular options. The<br />

hotel is set amongst extensive grounds with plenty<br />

of facilities, including two attractive swimming<br />

pools. Perhaps the best feature of the hotel is its<br />

direct access to Qurm beach, a long, wide stretch<br />

of sand reaching for four kilometres. Rooms have<br />

all been updated in recent years and there is a<br />

choice of sea or mountain views.<br />

Self-drive Oman<br />

Choosing to get behind the wheel on a<br />

self-drive itinerary of Oman can really open<br />

up this fascinating country. You are free to<br />

explore at your own pace and get off the<br />

beaten track whenever you like, whether to<br />

roam further into the mountains near Nizwa,<br />

or even venture up some of the wadis which<br />

dot the Omani landscape.<br />

Hiring a car for four or five days would allow<br />

plenty of time to explore the mountains<br />

and desert outside Muscat, although it is<br />

worth considering having a car while you are<br />

staying in the capital as well. Muscat is rather<br />

spread out, and some of the hotels are miles<br />

away from the centre of the city. Having the<br />

use of a car here means you can visit the<br />

souqs and restaurants independently and<br />

without the need for taxis. Oman has a<br />

good road network, which is expanding all<br />

the time. Equipped with a good map and<br />

directions, it is easy to navigate and explore<br />

the country. We will organise all aspects<br />

of your self-drive trip including flights,<br />

accommodation and rental car, as well as<br />

making suggestions for sightseeing.<br />

City view at night, Muscat<br />

Desert driving, Oman<br />

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat<br />

www.audleytravel.com/oman ● 01993 838 430 ● Oman 93


Village in the Jebel Akhdar<br />

Nizwa Fort<br />

Nizwa<br />

Nizwa, the former capital of Oman, is nestled<br />

below the Jebel Akhdar, a set of mountains which<br />

forms part of the Hajar Range. Seemingly cut<br />

off from the rest of Oman, this bustling urban<br />

hub comes as a surprise when approached across<br />

the mountains or from the deserts of Oman.<br />

The town attracts traders from far and wide,<br />

coming for the famous Friday market to buy and<br />

sell goats, sheep and cattle. Both Omani men<br />

and women take part in the auction so this is a<br />

good place to see some of the beautiful national<br />

costumes, the men wearing white robes, turbans<br />

or small caps and many of the women in<br />

intricate face veils and colourful headscarves.<br />

The town itself has one of the most impressive<br />

forts in Oman, hinting at the town’s past role<br />

as the capital.<br />

94<br />

THE VIEW CAMPSITE,<br />

NEAR NIZWA<br />

Perched on a ridge high above the town of Al<br />

Hamra, the View Campsite has 15 tents, seven of<br />

which have views over the valley. All the tents<br />

have laminate flooring, a basic air-conditioner and<br />

heater, and en suite shower rooms. The valleyview<br />

tents have raised terraces which are a great<br />

place to take in the view, whilst the courtyard-view<br />

tents also have smaller patios for sitting out and<br />

enjoying the peacefulness of the area. Meals are<br />

served in the small dining area which also looks<br />

over the valley and Al Hamra. The View Campsite<br />

offers a comfortable and altogether different<br />

experience to most other options in the area.<br />

Lady at Nizwa’s Friday market<br />

The View Campsite, near Nizwa<br />

Jebel Akhdar<br />

The region surrounding Nizwa is famed for its<br />

natural beauty, with the Jebel Akhdar living up<br />

to their name ‘the Green Mountains’. Many of<br />

the hills have been terraced for orchards and<br />

agricultural fields. Within this area you will also<br />

find Wadi Ghul, Oman’s Grand Canyon, with its<br />

breathtaking sheer drop of over a kilometre.<br />

The region boasts several important historical<br />

sites, including the beehive tombs of Bat and<br />

Al Ayn, burial sites which have been dated to<br />

3000 BC and are now UNESCO World Heritage<br />

Sites. You are never far from a fort, and Bahla and<br />

Jabrin are two great examples. Bahla’s historical<br />

importance is very evident in the town’s massive<br />

walls, stretching for 12 kilometres. The town’s fort<br />

is another UNESCO protected site, dating to<br />

1000 BC. Nearby Jabrin is a smaller settlement<br />

but has an equally impressive fort, renowned for<br />

its exquisite painted ceilings.


Nizwa Mosque and the Jebel Akhdar Beehive tombs of Al Ayn, Jebel Akhdar Fisherman, Ras Al Jinz<br />

Boy at the market, Nizwa<br />

Camels in the Wahiba Sands<br />

Wahiba Sands<br />

About four hours drive from Muscat, the Wahiba<br />

Sands are the most accessible of the desert areas<br />

of Oman. The sands are home to numerous<br />

species of plants and animals and are therefore a<br />

site of scientific interest, as well as being a popular<br />

destination for visitors. In places, the dunes reach<br />

150 metres in height, offering great opportunities<br />

for exhilarating 4x4 drives and fabulous views of<br />

desert sunsets. The area is sparsely populated but<br />

there are some Bedouin tribes which are less<br />

nomadic than in the past and have settled in the<br />

Wahiba Sands. They welcome visitors to their<br />

homes, displaying the typical hospitality associated<br />

with this region.<br />

There is a range of accommodation available<br />

in the Wahiba Sands, from the more basic<br />

Bedouin tents and wooden barasti-style huts to<br />

air-conditioned, en suite rooms or private camps<br />

set up just for you. We recommend spending<br />

two nights in the desert so that you have time to<br />

explore the dunes or organise other activities like<br />

camel rides or quad-biking, but one night will<br />

allow you to experience the landscape and the<br />

wonderful peace and solitude of this area.<br />

Desert Nights Camp, Wahiba Sands<br />

DESERT NIGHTS CAMP,<br />

WAHIBA SANDS<br />

Set between two 30 metre dunes, yet only<br />

11 kilometres from the main road, the Desert<br />

Nights Camp has a real feeling of peace and<br />

relaxation. Each air-conditioned ‘tent’ comprises a<br />

lounge, bedroom and bathroom and is equipped<br />

with all the facilities of a luxury hotel. There is a<br />

range of activities from quad-biking and camel<br />

riding to 4x4 dune bashing. In the evening, dinner<br />

is provided in the main restaurant with a chance<br />

to relax afterwards under the stars and listen to<br />

local musicians.<br />

Ras Al Jinz<br />

On the coast south of Muscat is the small<br />

cove of Ras Al Jinz. It is here that Omani efforts<br />

to preserve the marine life of the area are<br />

concentrated, at the Ras Al Jinz Nature Reserve.<br />

The beach is a prime spot for turtles to come<br />

ashore to lay their eggs all year round, although<br />

the principal season for nesting is between July<br />

and September. There is a good visitor centre<br />

next to the beach along with accommodation at<br />

Carapace Lodge, perfect for late evening and<br />

early morning visits to view the turtles.<br />

Turtle at Ras Al Jinz<br />

www.audleytravel.com/oman ● 01993 838 430 ● Oman 95


Coastline near Salalah<br />

Salalah Marriott Beach Resort<br />

Salalah<br />

Salalah is the main town of the Dhofar region,<br />

located in the far southwest of Oman and near<br />

the border with Yemen. One of Oman’s most<br />

ancient settlements, Salalah has a very different<br />

climate to the rest of the country, and in the<br />

summer months the city experiences the khareef<br />

season, influenced by the monsoon winds and<br />

rain from the Indian Ocean. During this period,<br />

the countryside turns green and lush and visitors<br />

from elsewhere in the Arabian peninsula flock<br />

here to experience the refreshing rainfall. At<br />

other times Salalah is a rather sleepy but<br />

attractive place to spend a few days, where you<br />

can enjoy the tropical atmosphere amongst the<br />

banana groves and palm trees. To the east and<br />

west of the town are some places of interest,<br />

including the tomb of the Prophet Job, hills filled<br />

with frankincense-bearing trees and the ancient<br />

port of Samhuram, at one time associated with<br />

the Queen of Sheba.<br />

96<br />

SALALAH MARRIOTT<br />

BEACH RESORT<br />

The Salalah Marriott is actually located<br />

approximately one hour’s drive from the city,<br />

near to a small town called Mirbat. It is a peaceful,<br />

relaxing retreat and an excellent choice for ending<br />

your trip around Oman. Most of the rooms look<br />

over the pool (the largest in Oman) and beach,<br />

with views of the Indian Ocean. There are a<br />

number of restaurants serving a range of cuisines,<br />

including a seafood restaurant which makes the<br />

most of the daily catch. Although a little isolated,<br />

the Marriott offers comfortable accommodation<br />

and is within easy reach of Salalah and the<br />

surrounding points of interest. The coastline to<br />

the east of the hotel is very remote with<br />

fascinating geology, flora and fauna, making it<br />

well worth exploring.<br />

Playing football on the beach, Salalah<br />

Lagoon near Salalah


The Frankincense Trade<br />

The Dhofar region, with its principal town<br />

of Salalah, has been one of the world’s<br />

premier sources of frankincense since ancient<br />

times. The Ancient Egyptians, Greeks and<br />

Persians were amongst the civilisations who<br />

purchased Omani frankincense. The trade<br />

thrived thanks to its use in rituals associated<br />

with different religions and was one of the<br />

gifts offered by the three magi (wise men)<br />

in the Bible’s nativity story. Dhofar prospered<br />

during these times. The ruins of Samhuram,<br />

an ancient port near Salalah are testament<br />

to its importance on early trade routes.<br />

Frankincense was transported from here all<br />

over the world.<br />

Frankincense is tapped from the Boswellia<br />

tree which grows in the hills near Salalah.<br />

Small incisions are made in the bark during<br />

March and April and the tree is then left for<br />

around five days whilst the milky sap seeps<br />

out. The lumps of resin are then collected<br />

by local people, whose families have been<br />

involved in the industry for centuries. Today<br />

frankincense is still shipped around the world<br />

for use in religious ceremonies and as an<br />

important ingredient in the manufacture of<br />

perfumes. You can buy frankincense in most<br />

souqs in Oman, but the souq in Salalah<br />

offers the largest range.<br />

Harvesting frankincense<br />

Frankincense<br />

Burning frankincense at Job’s Tomb<br />

Mosque and boat at Zighy Bay, Musandam Peninsula<br />

The Musandam Peninsula<br />

Musandam is one of the least visited but most<br />

beautiful areas of Oman. It is a parcel of Omani<br />

territory, entirely cut off from the rest of the<br />

country by the surrounding United Arab Emirates,<br />

a legacy of the tribal lines which dictated the<br />

shape of modern Arab nations. You can drive<br />

from the main part of Oman to reach Musandam,<br />

or to save time, fly northwards from Muscat.<br />

Jutting into the Straits of Hormuz like a crooked<br />

finger, its coastline is deeply scored with jagged<br />

creeks that are often compared to Norwegian<br />

fjords. Dhow cruises around the coast are a good<br />

way to see Musandam from a different<br />

perspective, with opportunities to enjoy the<br />

scenery and snorkel in the brilliantly clear water.<br />

Inland, roads cut through the folded mountains<br />

and there are small villages and towns with white<br />

houses and small forts.<br />

SIX SENSES ZIGHY BAY,<br />

MUSANDAM PENINSULA<br />

Six Senses Zighy Bay complements the remote<br />

and beautiful location with its use of traditional<br />

materials and design. There are 79 pool villas<br />

and pool villa suites, each with their own small<br />

swimming pool. The resort has all the facilities<br />

needed for a stay in such a remote place,<br />

including a marina, gym, spa and a range of dining<br />

options, including private dining in the hills. Backed<br />

by mountains, the hotel sits on a secluded beach.<br />

You can choose to arrive along the dramatic road<br />

from the mountains, across the sea by speedboat,<br />

or even to fly down by paraglider.<br />

Fjord on the Musandam Peninsula<br />

Six Senses Zinghy Bay, Musandam Peninsula<br />

www.audleytravel.com/oman ● 01993 838 430 ● Oman 97


Suggested itineraries<br />

Tailoring your trip<br />

The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />

work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />

basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />

different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />

Please call one of our Oman specialists to start<br />

planning your itinerary.<br />

Wadi Ghul<br />

Jabrin<br />

Nizwa<br />

Muscat<br />

Sur<br />

Ras Al Jinz<br />

SAUDI<br />

ARABIA<br />

Muscat<br />

Wadi Ghul<br />

Sur<br />

Nizwa<br />

Jabrin<br />

Ras Al Jinz<br />

Wahiba Sands<br />

OMAN<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 430<br />

Getting around<br />

In Oman, you will normally travel with a private<br />

driver for the trip into the interior of the<br />

country, using a 4x4 vehicle in order to cope<br />

with the varying terrains, including mountains,<br />

wadis and deserts. In the capital and Salalah you<br />

may have transfers and sightseeing provided in<br />

air-conditioned saloon vehicles. Otherwise there<br />

is the opportunity to drive yourself around Oman,<br />

and we can arrange hire of a 4x4 vehicle for you,<br />

fitted with a GPS system to make navigating that<br />

little bit easier.<br />

When to go<br />

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />

✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✕ ✕ ✕ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓<br />

✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />

✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />

~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />

✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />

Oman is best visited in the autumn and winter<br />

months, as the temperatures are warm but not<br />

too hot and the humidity is a little lower. The<br />

summer months are very hot indeed, making<br />

sightseeing uncomfortable, except in the<br />

mountain area near Nizwa, where the cooler<br />

weather can be a welcome relief from the heat<br />

and humidity of the Omani coast. Salalah<br />

experiences the monsoon (known locally as the<br />

khareef) between June and September. The rain<br />

and humidity at this time tend to discourage<br />

European visitors, who come instead from<br />

October through to April, making the most of<br />

blue skies and mild temperatures.<br />

Time difference: GMT+4 hours<br />

Flight time from UK: 8 hours<br />

Prices<br />

We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />

budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline<br />

prices for your trip to Oman on our website,<br />

alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />

your plans.<br />

Classic Oman<br />

The Classic Oman itinerary is a great trip for a<br />

first-time visitor to the country because it gives a<br />

good overview of some of the main highlights.<br />

The trip takes you through the contrasting<br />

landscapes of the coast, desert and mountains,<br />

with time to take in the capital and the interesting<br />

interior town of Nizwa. This itinerary can also be<br />

adapted for a self-drive tour.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Wahiba Sands<br />

Fly overnight from the UK to Muscat.<br />

Arrive in Muscat and transfer to<br />

your hotel.<br />

Discover the sights of Muscat.<br />

Pass through the spectacular Wadi<br />

Bani Awf on the way to Nizwa .<br />

Explore Nizwa and the surrounding<br />

Jebel Akhdar region, including Jabrin<br />

Fort and Oman’s ‘grand canyon’ at<br />

Wadi Ghul.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to the Wahiba Sands, crossing<br />

the dunes to a desert camp.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Wadi Bani Khalid, one of<br />

Oman’s most picturesque spots,<br />

before continuing to Ras Al Jinz for<br />

the opportunity to view the turtles.<br />

Return to Muscat via Sur along the<br />

coastal road.<br />

Transfer to the airport for your<br />

return flight to the UK.<br />

Stay longer<br />

Extend the trip by spending a few more days in<br />

Muscat, with time to relax at one of the capital’s<br />

beaches. Alternatively travel from Muscat to<br />

another destination such as the Maldives, Sri Lanka<br />

or India.<br />

Salalah<br />

Grand Tour of Oman<br />

This itinerary offers a more comprehensive look at<br />

Oman, its culture and history, along with time to<br />

relax in Muscat and Salalah on the country’s<br />

beaches. The trip could either be done with your<br />

own private driver or as a self-drive itinerary.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Days 3-4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Samhuram<br />

Fly from the UK overnight to Muscat.<br />

Arrive in Muscat and transfer to<br />

your hotel.<br />

Discover the sights of Muscat,<br />

including the souqs and the Sultan<br />

Qaboos Grand Mosque.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> south from Muscat via Sur<br />

along the coast to Ras Al Jinz, with<br />

the opportunity to visit the beach<br />

where turtles come ashore to nest.<br />

Visit Wadi Bani Khalid on the way to<br />

the Wahiba Sands, spending a night<br />

there at a desert camp.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Nizwa.<br />

Visit Nizwa and the surrounding Jebel<br />

Akhdar region, including Wadi Ghul.<br />

A second day of sightseeing from<br />

Nizwa, going to Jabrin, Bahla and the<br />

beehive tombs at Al Ayn.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Muscat through the<br />

spectacular Wadi Bani Awf. In the<br />

evening fly from Muscat to Salalah.<br />

Explore the coastline to the east of<br />

Salalah, going to the ancient port of<br />

Samhuram and some of the pretty<br />

fishing villages in the area.<br />

Discover the coastline to the west<br />

of Salalah, including the famous<br />

frankincense trees of the area.<br />

Visit the town and souqs of Salalah.<br />

A free day for relaxation.<br />

Transfer to the airport for a flight to<br />

Muscat, connecting with your return<br />

flight to the UK.<br />

98<br />

Young boy, Muscat


Useful information<br />

The Monastery, Petra, Jordan<br />

Honeymoons<br />

With such a wealth of important historical sites, a<br />

honeymoon in this region makes for a memorable<br />

trip. Egypt, Jordan and Oman all offer<br />

opportunities to combine your sightseeing with<br />

relaxation at luxurious hotels located on sandy<br />

beaches. We also offer a honeymoon gift service<br />

which allows friends and family to contribute to<br />

the cost of your honeymoon.<br />

Groups<br />

We offer a comprehensive programme of guided<br />

small group tours, typically no more than 16<br />

travellers. Not only does this make for a sociable<br />

group, it also enables us to use smaller and more<br />

characterful accommodation and venture away<br />

from the large tour groups.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/groups<br />

We can also arrange private tours, whether this is<br />

for a group of friends, those with a special interest<br />

or a fundraising trip for charity. For larger groups<br />

we may be able to offer discounts or a free place<br />

to the organiser. See our website or call us to<br />

discuss your plans.<br />

Tea break in the Atlas Mountains<br />

Flights<br />

We use a range of airlines for our trips to<br />

North Africa and the Middle East, including the<br />

national carriers of most of our destinations, such<br />

as Tunis Air, Royal Air Maroc and Egypt Air.<br />

These often have good flight schedules and access<br />

to reduced domestic fares within the destination.<br />

There are several other international carriers we<br />

recommend. UK based airlines now operate to<br />

all the destinations in the brochure, making<br />

combination trips of two or more countries all<br />

the easier and better value. For Oman, we use<br />

Oman Air, but also Qatar Airways, Emirates<br />

and Etihad, which are all excellent airlines and<br />

open up the possibility of combining Oman with<br />

other destinations such as Dubai, Thailand, India,<br />

Sri Lanka or the Maldives.<br />

AITO Membership<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> is a member of the<br />

Association of Independent Tour<br />

Operators. The Association represents Britain’s<br />

leading independent tour operators and<br />

encourages high standards of quality and service.<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> abides by the Assocation’s Code of<br />

Conduct and adheres to the AITO Quality<br />

Charter which can be viewed at www.aito.com<br />

View from Saladin’s Castle, northern Syria<br />

Terms & Conditions and<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> Insurance<br />

Your booking is subject to the Terms and<br />

Conditions of <strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong>, which we will<br />

include with your personalised itinerary and can<br />

also be found on our website. It is vital that you<br />

have adequate travel insurance and we are able<br />

to suggest a number of policies either for the<br />

duration of your trip or on an annual basis.<br />

Photography in this brochure<br />

We would like to thank the following<br />

photographers for the images used in this<br />

brochure:<br />

Alamy, <strong>Audley</strong> staff, clients and suppliers,<br />

Fotoseeker, Istockphoto, Lonely Planet Images,<br />

Moroccan Tourist Office, Peter Branch,<br />

Shutterstock, Simon Urwin, Superstock, Tips<br />

Images and <strong>Travel</strong> Pictures Gallery.<br />

All images used in this brochure were obtained<br />

in good faith by <strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Group Limited<br />

and in the belief that all necessary consents and<br />

clearances were obtained for their use.<br />

However, if you believe that unauthorised use<br />

has been made of an image belonging to you<br />

please contact us on 01993 838 040.<br />

Visit our offices<br />

If you would like to discuss your<br />

travel arrangements in person we<br />

welcome personal visits, please<br />

call in advance to arrange an<br />

appointment with one or more of<br />

our country specialists. Our offices<br />

are at the New Mill, a 17th century<br />

converted wool mill on the outskirts<br />

of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford<br />

on the edge of the Cotswolds.<br />

www.audleytravel.com/visit-us<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

Our website is packed with<br />

information, features and advice<br />

covering all our destinations across<br />

the globe. On the site you can browse by<br />

theme, special interest or region as well as<br />

viewing additional accommodation options<br />

and itineraries that are not featured in this<br />

brochure. You can download all our<br />

brochures online or contact us via the<br />

website where there is the option to tell<br />

us about your plans so that we can start<br />

tailoring your itinerary.<br />

Useful information 99


New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 400 • Fax: 01993 838 010<br />

Email: arabia@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com<br />

This brochure has been printed on paper from well managed forests, approved by the Forestry Stewardship Council, using vegetable inks.<br />

Our printer holds ISO 14001 and FSC ® environmental accreditations. Should you wish to dispose of your brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it.

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