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N ORTH<br />
A FRICA &<br />
THE M IDDLE E AST<br />
EGYPT<br />
JORDAN<br />
SYRIA<br />
LEBANON<br />
MOROCCO<br />
TUNISIA<br />
LIBYA<br />
IRAN<br />
OMAN<br />
TAILOR- MADE J OURNEYS FOR THE D ISCERNING T RAVELLER
Dear <strong>Travel</strong>ler<br />
Nowhere in the world is as full of history<br />
as the countries of North Africa and the<br />
Middle East, and with political change<br />
sweeping the region, history continues to<br />
be made.<br />
Many ancient civilisations have held sway<br />
in this region: Sumerians, Phoenicians,<br />
Egyptians, Romans and Greeks all left their<br />
mark on the landscape, long before the Arab<br />
Conquest and the battles of the Crusades.<br />
Although the sites of antiquity are the<br />
main draw, there are also plenty of other<br />
experiences to enthral the traveller –<br />
traditional cultures existing in a modern<br />
world, bustling bazaars, sophisticated<br />
cuisines, fascinating national parks and<br />
inspirational desert and mountain scenery.<br />
All of our North Africa and Middle East<br />
specialists have travelled extensively<br />
through the region and many have lived<br />
there and studied the Arabic language.<br />
Not only are they passionate about this<br />
part of the world, they also know the<br />
practicalities of travelling here, and have<br />
daily contact with our partners on the<br />
ground to keep up to date with the very<br />
latest developments in each of the countries<br />
we cover. If you have tentative plans and<br />
would like an informal chat, or have more<br />
concrete ideas and want to start planning<br />
in earnest, please feel free to call them.<br />
Whether you are travelling here for the<br />
first time, or returning to explore in more<br />
depth, I hope our passion is infectious and<br />
inspires you to visit this historic and<br />
fascinating corner of the world.<br />
Craig Burkinshaw<br />
Managing Director
Introducing <strong>Audley</strong><br />
After developing a real passion for travel in the early 1990s, Craig Burkinshaw founded<br />
<strong>Audley</strong>, or Asian Journeys as we were then called. Craig wanted to make it possible for<br />
others to share the same experiences and, from these small beginnings, the company was born.<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> offered a new type of travel – individual journeys, designed to match the traveller’s<br />
interests, tastes and budget, created with an absolute commitment to quality, authenticity<br />
and a passion for travel. Today <strong>Audley</strong> is one of the UK’s most highly regarded specialist<br />
tour operators, providing tailor-made trips throughout Asia, Africa, the Middle East,<br />
Latin America, Australasia, Antarctica and the Arctic, Canada and Alaska.<br />
Tailor-made journeys<br />
The beauty of tailor-made travel is that every trip<br />
is unique. Whether you want to stay in simple or<br />
luxurious accommodation, have great guides on<br />
hand or explore under your own steam, travel for<br />
one week or five, we can create a trip to match<br />
your tastes and budget. We can also design trips<br />
for a special occasion, where added touches can<br />
change an adventurous journey into a spectacular<br />
honeymoon, anniversary or birthday celebration.<br />
Your trip can be tailored to suit your particular<br />
interests, such as wildlife, photography or diving,<br />
and we have the specialist knowledge to match.<br />
Throughout the brochure you will find suggested<br />
itineraries and some of our favourite places to<br />
stay. These are included purely to offer inspiration<br />
and give you a flavour of what is possible, as each<br />
journey is created individually to give you the<br />
opportunity to experience a destination in exactly<br />
the way you choose.<br />
Planning your trip<br />
Once you have some ideas for your trip, or if<br />
you just want some general guidance, call one of<br />
our North Africa and Middle East specialists on<br />
01993 838 400. They can offer advice and discuss<br />
your plans with you before creating a detailed<br />
itinerary, which will be forwarded to you together<br />
with maps, accommodation information, colour<br />
photographs and a price. Your specialist can then<br />
continue to refine the plans until you are<br />
completely satisfied. They will be on hand from<br />
the start of the planning process until your return<br />
and are always available to answer questions and<br />
offer sound advice.<br />
Specialist knowledge<br />
Our North Africa and Middle East specialists have<br />
all travelled extensively throughout the region and<br />
in many cases lived there, so you can rely on their<br />
extensive, first-hand knowledge. They regularly<br />
return to see the accommodation, meet our<br />
guides – many of whom are firm friends –<br />
experience all the excursions and activities, and<br />
keep up-to-date with local developments. They<br />
pride themselves on having an honest ‘tell it how<br />
it is’ approach to planning your trip and, as well<br />
as their own comprehensive knowledge, are able<br />
to draw on the considerable collective experience<br />
of their colleagues. We believe this approach is<br />
unique to <strong>Audley</strong> and the only way that we can<br />
genuinely offer you a tailor-made service.<br />
Financial security<br />
All travel arrangements in this brochure that<br />
include a flight are ATOL protected by the Civil<br />
Aviation Authority. Our ATOL number is 4817.<br />
Please see our booking conditions for more<br />
information. If your arrangements do not include<br />
any flights from the UK they are protected by a<br />
separate financial scheme, for further details<br />
please visit www.audleytravel.com/protect<br />
The pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx<br />
Contents<br />
Introduction 2-7<br />
Egypt 8-29<br />
Jordan 30-45<br />
Syria 46-55<br />
Lebanon 56-59<br />
Morocco 60-77<br />
Tunisia 78-81<br />
Libya 82-83<br />
Iran 84-89<br />
Oman 90-98<br />
Useful information 99
Experience North Africa<br />
and the Middle East<br />
With Arabic spoken across most of the region it is easy to think of the countries in<br />
North Africa and the Middle East as being homogeneous and indistinct. This is far<br />
from the case though, and each has its own unique customs, traditions, and history to be<br />
discovered and experienced.<br />
Ancient sites<br />
Byzantine mosaic, Lebanon<br />
Carpets in Kairouan, Tunisia<br />
Nasir al Mulk Mosque, Iran<br />
From Voloubilis in Morocco to Persepolis in Iran,<br />
the region’s archaeology and architecture<br />
demonstrate the historical and cultural influences<br />
which have come and gone through the millennia<br />
across the region. Egypt has perhaps the richest<br />
collection of ancient monuments, spread<br />
throughout the country and with plenty still to<br />
be discovered. The Pyramids of Giza are without<br />
doubt one of the most recognisable structures in<br />
the world, and exploring the Nile Valley will bring<br />
you to one of the largest religious buildings in the<br />
region, the Temple of Karnak. Archaeological sites<br />
in Lebanon and Syria originate from a medley of<br />
different periods of antiquity, with places such as<br />
Byblos claiming a history of over eight millennia.<br />
In Tunisia, evidence of the Carthaginians was<br />
almost entirely swept from the map with only<br />
tiny vestiges of their civilisation still visible today,<br />
at Kerkouane and the Punic Ports.<br />
The cradle of civilisation<br />
What strikes most visitors to this area is just how<br />
ancient the sites and monuments littered across<br />
the region are. The Pyramids of Giza, for instance,<br />
were more ancient to Jesus than Jesus is to us<br />
now. As far back as the fifth millennium BC, the<br />
Sumerians were developing sophisticated social<br />
structures and around 1400 BC, the Phoenicians<br />
created the first alphabet in their original lands in<br />
the Levant. The Great Pyramid in Egypt was<br />
completed around 2600 BC and Ancient Egyptian<br />
culture flourished for thousands of years before<br />
being absorbed into the Classical World. The<br />
Greeks and the Romans in their turn dominated<br />
the region, leaving behind their trademark<br />
colonnaded streets, temples and theatres. Against<br />
this backdrop, the Jewish and Christian faiths<br />
came into being, followed in the 7th century AD<br />
by Islam, spreading outwards from the Arabian<br />
peninsula with the Arab Conquest. The countries<br />
of the region are thus home to some of the most<br />
important religious monuments in the world,<br />
including the earliest temples, churches, mosques<br />
and the tombs of the prophets.<br />
Local ladies, Egypt<br />
Local culture and etiquette<br />
A degree of cultural sensitivity is required when<br />
visiting the countries in this brochure. Religion is<br />
an important aspect of life for most of the people<br />
you will meet – Islam is the predominant faith,<br />
but Christianity and Judaism are also present,<br />
along with small sects such as the Druze in Syria<br />
and Lebanon. The level of conservatism varies<br />
from country to country, and some have had<br />
greater exposure to European visitors than<br />
others, so the degree of moderation you need<br />
to display does vary. Our specialists will advise<br />
you on this.<br />
However, there are some general rules that you<br />
should always respect. Women should not wear<br />
tight or revealing clothing, and it is always<br />
advisable to keep the shoulders and upper arms<br />
covered, as well as wearing shorts or skirts and<br />
dresses that reach at least to the knee. Men<br />
should always wear a shirt or t-shirt; in some<br />
places shorts are acceptable, in others trousers<br />
are a better option. Where it is possible to visit<br />
a religious building, such as a mosque or a<br />
church, always cover the shoulders, arms and legs.<br />
In mosques you will normally also be required to<br />
take off your shoes and women may be required<br />
to cover their heads. Ramadan, the month of<br />
fasting in Islam, is a time when things slow down<br />
a bit during the day and opening hours are<br />
curtailed, although it is perfectly possible to travel<br />
in some countries at this time.<br />
4
Guiding and excursions<br />
Your guides will bring the history of the ancient<br />
world alive and provide a modern context to the<br />
places that you visit. In some countries they will<br />
accompany you throughout your trip and at<br />
other times local guides will be provided for<br />
specific sites or cities.<br />
In countries such as Jordan and Oman, we<br />
recommend travelling with a driver only or<br />
self-driving. On Nile cruises, the excursions are<br />
always in small groups of around 15 people.<br />
Guides in Egypt all have to study for a<br />
wide-ranging degree in order to gain<br />
employment. They are consequently very well<br />
informed about all periods of Egyptian history<br />
including the legends of Ancient Egypt and<br />
aspects of Coptic and Islamic traditions.<br />
Spices for sale, Morocco<br />
Desert experiences<br />
The image of camping out in the lee of majestic<br />
sand dunes under a brilliant night sky is a<br />
powerful draw. Picking the right destination and<br />
accommodation for this experience is essential.<br />
We have sought out small, intimate desert camps,<br />
notably in the Sahara in Morocco, Wadi Rum in<br />
Jordan and the Wahiba Sands in Oman, all of<br />
which have a good range of facilities.<br />
Hiking and walking tours<br />
The mountains of Morocco and the nature<br />
reserves of Jordan are established destinations for<br />
hiking. Options range from day walks in the High<br />
Atlas and Dana Nature Reserve through to<br />
ascents of Morocco’s Jebel Toubkal and five day<br />
hikes into Petra. In the cities you may wish to<br />
follow one of our walking tours, which are<br />
designed to show the usual highlights and<br />
destinations in a new light. They are not especially<br />
arduous and will typically take two to four hours,<br />
combining historic sights with glimpses of<br />
modern-day life.<br />
Roman city of Jerash, Jordan<br />
Roman history<br />
With the exception of Oman and Iran,<br />
every country in this brochure has<br />
experienced the tramp of legionary<br />
boots and the rule of toga-clad<br />
governors. The Roman narrative, from<br />
the early days of the Republic to the<br />
collapse of the Empire, can be traced<br />
through the basilicas, monumental<br />
arches, forums and theatres which are<br />
still standing. From Voloubilis in Morocco<br />
right through to Palmyra in Syria, the<br />
Roman Empire’s influence can be felt<br />
and seen across much of the region.<br />
Camel driver, Saqqara, Egypt<br />
01993 838 400 ● Introduction 5
Experience North Africa<br />
and the Middle East<br />
Tagines, Morocco<br />
Cuisine<br />
Cuisine in the Arab world is interesting and<br />
flavoursome, using fresh produce as well as a<br />
wide range of spices such as cardamom, cumin,<br />
coriander and sumac (the latter being typical of<br />
the Levant).<br />
Lebanese influence is found across the region<br />
and the formula of a selection of starters, known<br />
as mezze, followed by a main course, usually<br />
including red meat or chicken and served with<br />
rice, is common in Syria, Egypt and Jordan.<br />
Morocco has superb food, with the local<br />
specialities of tajine and couscous now popular<br />
worldwide. Such is the interest in Moroccan<br />
cuisine that there are now opportunities to take<br />
cookery courses during your stay in Marrakesh.<br />
Tunisian food is similar to Moroccan, although it<br />
is a bit spicier owing to the liberal use of harissa<br />
(a chilli paste). Seafood, taken directly from the<br />
Mediterranean, is also a highlight. There isn’t<br />
really a recognisable Omani cuisine and dishes<br />
tend to incorporate influences from neighbouring<br />
areas, such as India, Iran and the Arab world.<br />
Further east, Persian food is influenced by the<br />
Subcontinent, with saffron infused dishes.<br />
Accommodation<br />
Styles of accommodation vary greatly, although<br />
standards are generally high. Morocco has the<br />
most interesting accommodation options, with its<br />
wide array of riads. These are intimate converted<br />
townhouses, which display the best of traditional<br />
architecture and design and are usually located<br />
at the heart of the medinas (old walled part of<br />
the towns).<br />
In Egypt and Jordan, properties tend to be<br />
comfortable international chain hotels with plenty<br />
of facilities. Nods are made towards traditional<br />
architecture although they are not always imbued<br />
with local character. There are some notable<br />
exceptions such as the heritage hotels in Egypt<br />
and Feynan Ecolodge in Jordan. Syria and Tunisia<br />
offer modern hotels as well as converted family<br />
homes in the old towns. Oman has a wide array<br />
of luxury hotels in the capital, Muscat. Most are<br />
quite grand, but one or two have more style and<br />
character. Outside Muscat, accommodation is<br />
fairly basic, although always clean and<br />
comfortable. In much of Libya and Iran, basic<br />
standards are the best you can hope for: the<br />
focus for any trip to these countries should be<br />
the excursions and not the accommodation.<br />
Young Moroccan man in Ait Benhaddou<br />
Typical riad, Morocco<br />
6<br />
Palmyra in the evening, Syria
Al-Azhar Mosque, Egypt<br />
Responsible travel<br />
We are passionate about travel but also deeply<br />
aware of the responsibility we have to the people<br />
and places we visit. We believe that a visit from<br />
an <strong>Audley</strong> traveller should have a positive impact<br />
on the destination and, wherever possible, bring<br />
real benefits. We always endeavour to use locally<br />
owned hotels, work with local guides and<br />
operators, and promote community and wildlife<br />
projects. Our <strong>Travel</strong>ler’s Code offers tips and<br />
advice you can use to ensure your trip does not<br />
threaten the sustainability of the places you visit.<br />
We carbon offset all our staff flights and you can<br />
choose to do the same, please speak to your<br />
specialist about this or follow the link on our<br />
website www.audleytravel.com/offset.<br />
Our commitment to responsible travel has been<br />
audited by AITO (Association of Independent<br />
Tour Operators) and we have been awarded<br />
five stars, the maximum achievable. We also<br />
support a variety of social and environmental<br />
charities and projects around the world.<br />
In the past, the North Africa and Middle East<br />
team has raised money to support The Hannan<br />
School in Morocco, which works to provide<br />
better education and welfare for a small Berber<br />
community in the Middle Atlas mountains.<br />
We continue to organise fundraising events to<br />
support similar projects.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong>ling around<br />
We use the most convenient means of transport<br />
for each sector of your journey and it is likely that<br />
your <strong>Audley</strong> specialist has travelled along the<br />
same route themself. In general road journeys are<br />
undertaken in modern, air-conditioned vehicles,<br />
while 4x4 vehicles are used for expeditions into<br />
the deserts. Rail journeys are possible in Morocco<br />
and Egypt, but the overnight journeys are not<br />
always the most comfortable way to get around.<br />
In Egypt, cruises on the Nile and Lake Nasser<br />
are often the most convenient way to visit many<br />
of the archaeological sites in a short time, as well<br />
as offering opportunities to see modern Egyptian<br />
life along the river and to spend time relaxing<br />
on board.<br />
Trader at Nizwa cattle market, Oman<br />
Traditional felucca boat on the Nile, Egypt<br />
Political change in the region<br />
Momentous change has taken place in the region,<br />
with old certainties falling away.<br />
In the long term these changes should offer the<br />
hope of a better and brighter future for the<br />
peoples of these lands. Such is the enormity of<br />
them though, that the ripples will no doubt be felt<br />
for many years to come. On occasion, this can<br />
create uncertainty as to whether to travel or not.<br />
For all the countries in which <strong>Audley</strong> operates,<br />
the UK Foreign & Commonwealth Office acts as<br />
an arbiter of whether countries are safe to visit,<br />
and we will always be guided by their expert<br />
advice. Our specialists are always very happy to<br />
discuss any concerns you may have.<br />
01993 838 400 ● Introduction 7
Egypt<br />
For centuries, Egypt has been drawing<br />
visitors to marvel at the temples and<br />
funerary monuments of its ancient<br />
civilisation. Lining the banks of the Nile,<br />
they are crammed into the narrow strip of<br />
fertile land within the desert which makes<br />
up most of the country. From the iconic<br />
Pyramids of Giza to the temples of Abu<br />
Simbel, there is an array of sites that form<br />
the core of Egypt’s appeal. There is more to<br />
Egypt than just the Ancient Egyptians<br />
though, and Cairo is the perfect example,<br />
where layer upon layer of medieval history<br />
competes for space with Fatimid citadels,<br />
Mamluke souqs, Ottoman mosques and the<br />
trappings of a modern city. Beyond the Nile,<br />
the Red Sea’s stunning coral reefs are fringed<br />
by sandy beaches which enjoy year-round sun.<br />
Deserts are filled with remarkable rock<br />
formations and sand seas which shelter<br />
isolated oases and remote monasteries. While<br />
many of Egypt’s historic attractions are still<br />
in situ, a wonderful selection of artefacts<br />
can also be found in the country’s museums.<br />
Chief amongst them is the Museum of<br />
Egyptian Antiquities in Cairo, one of the<br />
most famous museums in the world.<br />
8
<strong>Audley</strong> in Egypt<br />
1<br />
2<br />
5<br />
4<br />
3<br />
7<br />
With most of Egypt’s places of interest lying<br />
along the line of the Nile, travelling from one<br />
to another is straightforward. <strong>Travel</strong> across<br />
larger distances is by air, while local travel<br />
and sightseeing are easiest with a private<br />
driver and guide. Nile cruises are the most<br />
popular way to visit Egypt’s greatest<br />
archaeological treasures around Luxor and<br />
Aswan, and include guided excursions. These<br />
are in groups of around 20, with professional,<br />
English-speaking guides. For the more<br />
adventurous, desert excursions with 4x4<br />
vehicles on a private basis can allow you to<br />
discover lesser-known sites and attractions.<br />
Certain dates, such as the holy month of<br />
Ramadan, when most of the country fasts<br />
during daylight hours, may affect your travel<br />
plans. We will always ensure such factors<br />
are taken into account.<br />
6<br />
Accommodation<br />
The Pyramids of Giza<br />
1 The Pyramids<br />
Egypt’s most iconic site,<br />
located on the outskirts of<br />
Cairo, the Pyramids are<br />
amongst the world’s greatest<br />
ancient monuments.<br />
2 Cairo<br />
Below the surface of what<br />
seems an ordinary, busy and<br />
modern city, you will find layer<br />
upon layer of history.<br />
3 Karnak Temple<br />
Just one of Ancient Egypt’s<br />
extraordinary monuments,<br />
Karnak is the largest ancient<br />
religious complex in the world.<br />
4 Valley of the Kings<br />
The location of the pharaohs’<br />
tombs, which are exquisitely<br />
decorated with frescoes telling<br />
of ancient legends.<br />
5 The Nile<br />
Lifeblood of the Egyptians,<br />
ancient and modern, the Nile is<br />
a spectacular river. A journey<br />
along its course is an essential<br />
part of your trip.<br />
6 Abu Simbel<br />
Abu Simbel is the most<br />
southerly of the Ancient<br />
Egyptian monuments, but what<br />
makes it so impressive is the<br />
fact that the temples were<br />
moved from their original<br />
position following the creation<br />
of Lake Nasser.<br />
Underwater life, Red Sea<br />
7 The Red Sea<br />
Cairo’s underwater treasures<br />
match the ancient ones found<br />
on land. The reefs of the Red<br />
Sea are home to a myriad of<br />
fish and coral species.<br />
Felucca on the Nile<br />
The desert oases<br />
Isolated by miles of desert from<br />
one another and from the Nile,<br />
the desert oases have<br />
developed their own cultures.<br />
Heritage hotels<br />
The Mena House Oberoi Hotel<br />
in Cairo, the Old Winter Palace<br />
in Luxor and the Old Cataract<br />
in Aswan are three of the<br />
country’s venerable hotels, each<br />
with period character and<br />
excellent locations.<br />
Karnak Temple<br />
There is a good range of accommodation<br />
available in Egypt with some hotels offering<br />
good value, others providing a characterful<br />
place to stay and others offering luxurious<br />
comfort. The country is blessed with some<br />
wonderful historic hotels, rich in charm and<br />
character. Many of these have played host to<br />
historical events or visiting dignitaries through<br />
the ages. Other properties tend to be<br />
international chain hotels that are very<br />
comfortable and have higher levels of service,<br />
but offer less in the way of character. Many<br />
hotels in Egypt are set near the Nile<br />
or the sea, and where possible we would<br />
suggest upgrading to rooms which make the<br />
most of the views as the supplements are<br />
seldom prohibitive.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Egypt, please see<br />
pages 28-29.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Egypt<br />
specialists 01993 838 410<br />
Egypt 9
Al-Azhar Park, Cairo<br />
Cairo<br />
Sprawling across the Nile, Cairo is one of Africa’s<br />
greatest cities and it continues to grow at a rapid<br />
pace. It is very much the focus of Egypt’s political<br />
and cultural life, so much so that Egyptians refer<br />
to their country and their capital with the same<br />
name – ‘Masr’. First impressions are of urban<br />
sprawl, dusty streets and chaotic driving, but<br />
visitors who persevere are rewarded with a<br />
diverse and dramatic history and some relatively<br />
unknown attractions. The one stop that must be<br />
included in any visit to Cairo is the Museum of<br />
Egyptian Antiquities, which contains a vast<br />
treasure trove handed down through the ages –<br />
the building itself is a jewel of the French colonial<br />
period in Egypt. Scratch beneath the surface and<br />
Cairo reveals wondrous secrets, beautiful<br />
mosques, an imposing citadel, labyrinthine bazaars,<br />
ancient Coptic churches and unexpected patches<br />
of green beside the River Nile.<br />
Cairo Walking Tour<br />
We have designed a self guided walking tour of<br />
Cairo based on our personal experiences and<br />
knowledge of the city. Eschewing the standard<br />
stops on most visitors’ itineraries, it not only<br />
shows the city’s less well-known gates, mosques<br />
and monuments, but also offers an insight into<br />
daily Cairene life, in all its entertaining chaos.<br />
Street by street directions let you explore at your<br />
own pace and pass from the colonial-era<br />
Downtown district to your final destination, the<br />
legendary medieval souqs at Khan El Khalili.<br />
SOFITEL EL GEZIRAH, CAIRO<br />
The Sofitel is located on the southern tip of<br />
Gezirah Island, between the Downtown and<br />
Giza areas of Cairo, in a secluded, relatively quiet<br />
spot. The 433 rooms have a subtle decor and<br />
smart, compact bathrooms. The hotel boasts<br />
fantastic views over the Nile, with the Muqattam<br />
Hills and the Pyramids of Giza visible on clear<br />
days. Inside, the range of facilities is impressive,<br />
with a Middle Eastern restaurant, and as one<br />
would expect from the Sofitel chain, a French<br />
restaurant, amongst other dining options.<br />
The Museum of<br />
Egyptian Antiquities<br />
The joke goes that there are so many<br />
artefacts packed into the Museum of<br />
Egyptian Antiquities in Cairo that some<br />
of them need to be re-excavated from<br />
the basement. Whether or not this is<br />
true, it is clear that the museum is in<br />
need of some renovation or even a<br />
relocation – both solutions have been<br />
mooted in past years. Nonetheless, the<br />
museum is an essential inclusion on any<br />
trip to Cairo. Rooms are crammed with<br />
statues, models, jewellery and mummies,<br />
but the highlight is undoubtedly the<br />
Tutankhamun galleries, displaying the<br />
funerary artefacts of the Boy Pharaoh,<br />
glistening with gold, precious lapis lazuli<br />
and coral stones.<br />
Sofitel El Gezirah, Cairo<br />
10
Mosaic, Hanging Church, Coptic Cairo<br />
Minarets of Islamic Cairo<br />
FOUR SEASONS FIRST<br />
RESIDENCE, CAIRO<br />
Located on the Giza side (west bank) of the Nile,<br />
the Four Seasons is a grand, elegant and luxurious<br />
hotel. As part of the prestigious First Residence<br />
complex, the hotel has direct access to<br />
sophisticated haute couture boutiques and<br />
galleries, yet the ancient history and culture of the<br />
city are just minutes away. The 269 rooms and<br />
suites are among the largest in the city and are<br />
designed with elegance and relaxation in mind,<br />
while the large spa is the perfect place to unwind<br />
after a day’s sightseeing.<br />
Four Seasons First Residence, Cairo<br />
Rooftop pool, Kempinski Nile Hotel, Cairo<br />
KEMPINSKI NILE HOTEL, CAIRO<br />
With one of the most exclusive addresses in<br />
central Cairo, the Kempinski Nile Hotel offers a<br />
tasteful blend of European luxury with exotic<br />
Egyptian flavour. Smaller than other international<br />
hotels in the city, it promises a more personal<br />
and intimate atmosphere. The hotel is<br />
immaculately decorated and the attention to<br />
detail is outstanding. It boasts all the modern<br />
facilities that you could ask for, with a number<br />
of bars and restaurants, a beautiful spa and a<br />
rooftop swimming pool, topped off by great<br />
views of the Nile.<br />
St George’s Church, Coptic Cairo<br />
Islamic Cairo<br />
Islamic Cairo is a distinct quarter of the capital<br />
and is a wonderful place to explore on foot, with<br />
beautiful examples of Islamic architecture found<br />
around each corner. It is difficult to discern the<br />
city walls any more but some of the gates remain.<br />
The grand Bab an-Nasr and Bab Zuweila gates at<br />
the northern and southern ends of the city show<br />
just how powerful and prosperous a place Cairo<br />
was in the medieval age. Elsewhere, tranquil<br />
madrassas, mausoleums and traditional family<br />
homes offer an insight into life in a Muslim city of<br />
the past, contrasting with the bustling streets filled<br />
with the cries of vendors and the aromas of<br />
spices, coffee, incense and perfumes.<br />
Coptic Cairo<br />
Coptic Cairo is one of the quietest areas of the<br />
capital, its calm streets and alleys a welcome relief<br />
from the hustle and bustle of central Cairo. This is<br />
the oldest part of the city, and is home to ancient<br />
churches and Africa’s first mosque. It is here that<br />
the Holy Family is reputed to have stayed during<br />
the flight to Egypt, as described in the Bible. The<br />
Hanging Church (Al-Mu’allaqa in Arabic) is one<br />
of the capital’s most iconic monuments, cherished<br />
by Christians and Muslims alike. It is not only a<br />
beautiful piece of architecture but also an<br />
extraordinary feat of engineering, built without<br />
foundations so it appears suspended in its position.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 11
Pyramids<br />
The Pyramids of Giza<br />
The Pyramids of Giza<br />
More than any other monuments, the Pyramids<br />
of Giza symbolise the mystic appeal that Egypt<br />
has exerted over travellers for centuries.<br />
Instantly recognisable, their vast silhouettes<br />
dominate the Giza skyline, with gritty streets on<br />
one side and endless desert sands on the other.<br />
Sentinel to the Pyramids, the Sphinx sits in<br />
enigmatic splendour.<br />
The Giza Plateau spreads for several kilometres,<br />
with the three Pyramids the most obvious<br />
monuments in a much larger burial complex.<br />
The Pyramids date back to the fourth dynasty<br />
of the Ancient Egyptians, (between 2670 BC<br />
and 2500 BC) and were one of the Seven<br />
Wonders of the Ancient World. You can go<br />
inside some of the pyramids, but it is a bit of a<br />
physical ordeal and it is not recommended for<br />
those who are claustrophobic.<br />
Guardian, Saqqara<br />
Sphinx at Memphis, near Cairo<br />
Visiting the Pyramids of Giza,<br />
Saqqara and Dashur<br />
We would recommend a day to visit the<br />
Pyramids of Giza, Saqqara and Dashur,<br />
accompanied by a driver and guide. Your guide<br />
will recount the histories of all three sites and<br />
the stories of the pharaohs who ordered the<br />
construction of these burial monuments. By<br />
visiting Giza, Saqqara and Dashur you will be<br />
able to get a really in-depth insight into the<br />
development of pyramid design, starting with<br />
the mastabas (a simple tomb structure that<br />
developed over time to become a pyramid)<br />
on view at Saqqara and ending with the zenith<br />
of Ancient Egyptian engineering and architecture<br />
at the Great Pyramids of Cheops.<br />
Saqqara<br />
Within easy reach of Cairo, the site of Saqqara<br />
is far less visited than the Giza Plateau. Saqqara<br />
is where the royalty and nobility of Memphis<br />
(Ancient Egypt’s capital) were buried, and there<br />
are a large number of mastabas and temples to<br />
explore. The most important is the Step<br />
Pyramid of Zoser, which predates the Great<br />
Pyramid of Cheops by about 75 years and<br />
marks the moment when the pyramid age<br />
began under the direction of the architect<br />
Imhotep. Building on increasingly larger mortuary<br />
mastabas for his pharaoh Zoser, Imhotep<br />
eventually struck on the idea of a stepped<br />
pyramid, and the other larger and more famous<br />
pyramids took their inspiration directly from<br />
this design.<br />
The Step Pyramid at Saqqara<br />
12
The Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx<br />
The Bent Pyramid, Dashur<br />
Dashur<br />
The furthest of the Ancient Egyptian sites visited<br />
from Cairo, Dashur is an impressive pyramid<br />
field with two particularly notable examples,<br />
both completed during the reign of the Pharaoh<br />
Snofru, the father of Cheops and founder of the<br />
fourth dynasty. The Red Pyramid, so called<br />
because of the red limestone used in its<br />
construction, is the second largest in Egypt, only<br />
exceeded in size by the Great Pyramid at Giza.<br />
The Bent Pyramid is remarkable for two<br />
reasons. Firstly the angle of the slope changes<br />
abruptly halfway up the face of the pyramid<br />
(hence its name) and secondly, its limestone<br />
cladding is almost intact, unlike all other Egyptian<br />
pyramids. This gives a very rare insight into how<br />
all pyramids must have looked when first built.<br />
MENA HOUSE OBEROI HOTEL,<br />
CAIRO<br />
There can be few hotels with a location to<br />
match the Mena House. It is nestled at the foot<br />
of the Giza Plateau, directly below the looming<br />
presence of the Great Pyramid. Built as a<br />
hunting lodge by Khedive Ismail, a 19th century<br />
Egyptian ruler, it was converted to a hotel in<br />
1886 and welcomed guests from international<br />
royalty and high society. It was also where<br />
Churchill and Roosevelt met to plan the D-Day<br />
landings. Today it combines classic 19th century<br />
arabesque architecture and design with more<br />
modern features, along with 16 hectares of<br />
jasmine-scented gardens and a pool.<br />
View from balcony, Mena House Oberoi Hotel, Cairo<br />
The Red Pyramid, Dashur<br />
www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 13
Fort of Qaitbey, Alexandria<br />
Montazah Palace, Alexandria<br />
Alexandria<br />
For centuries, Alexandria was arguably the most<br />
important city in Classical civilisation. It was a<br />
centre of learning, where the earliest<br />
developments in science and philosophy were<br />
achieved and where the world’s largest collection<br />
of books was to be found. Precious little of the<br />
old Alexandria remains, just Pompey’s Pillar and<br />
the catacombs of Kom el-Shufaqa. The modern<br />
city has a Mediterranean air and becomes<br />
incredibly busy in the summer months, when<br />
Cairenes escape the heat to the country’s<br />
northern coastal resorts.<br />
14<br />
FOUR SEASONS, ALEXANDRIA<br />
Set on the Mediterranean coast, the Four Seasons<br />
is a short drive from many of the attractions that<br />
draw the visitor to Alexandria, including the Fort<br />
of Qaitbey, the catacombs and the museum. The<br />
hotel provides Four Seasons’ quality and service<br />
with the 118 rooms and suites furnished in an<br />
elegant European style. The atmosphere is intimate<br />
and exclusive, with a fantastic array of facilities,<br />
from superb restaurants to an excellent spa.<br />
Pompey’s Pillar, Alexandria<br />
Four Seasons, Alexandria<br />
El Alamein<br />
Heading along the coast from Alexandria to the<br />
west, there are a few more historic sites,<br />
including Abu Sir, known as Taposiris Magna in<br />
Classical times and renowned for its lighthouse.<br />
The main reason to travel to this region is to go<br />
to El Alamein, about 100 kilometres west of<br />
Alexandria. The battles here marked a turning<br />
point in World War II, with considerable loss of<br />
life on both sides. The rows of headstones in the<br />
various war cemeteries bear silent witness to<br />
heroism in Egypt’s desert.<br />
Commonwealth War Cemetery, El Alamein
Bedouin woman wearing traditional jewellery<br />
Old town of Siwa<br />
The White Desert<br />
Siwa oasis<br />
Siwa<br />
Located some 600 kilometres from Alexandria<br />
and surrounded in every direction by the<br />
treacherous dunes of the Sahara, the oasis of<br />
Siwa is largely untouched by the outside world.<br />
It remains an outpost of Berber culture and is a<br />
real contrast for visitors coming from Cairo, Luxor<br />
or Aswan. The Berbers in this town remained<br />
independent until 1820, when they finally came<br />
under Egyptian governance. They retain their own<br />
language, lifestyle, architecture and dress. Siwa is<br />
perhaps best known for the Oracle of Amun,<br />
where Alexander the Great sought confirmation<br />
that he was the son of Zeus. It can either be the<br />
sole destination on a trip into Egypt’s western<br />
desert, or a stop on a longer circuit of all the<br />
oases in this area.<br />
The Desert Circuit<br />
A desert adventure provides a great contrast to<br />
the well-trodden path of the Nile valley. The main<br />
oases are now mainly connected by asphalt roads,<br />
making it easier to explore the expanses of desert<br />
between places like Siwa, Kharga, Bahariya and<br />
Dakhla. Each oasis has its own atmosphere and<br />
landscape, including the salt lakes of Siwa, the<br />
dramatic White and Black Deserts between<br />
Bahariya and Farafra and the traditional mud-brick<br />
village of Dakhla.<br />
Adrère Amellal, Siwa<br />
Exploring the desert between Siwa and Bahariya<br />
ADRÈRE AMELLAL, SIWA<br />
An amazing feat of traditional engineering, this<br />
hotel is built entirely out of natural materials.<br />
There is no electricity or man-made fibres – all<br />
that you see, from the furniture made from salt,<br />
to the mud walls – is produced locally. There are<br />
40 rooms, each individually designed. You can<br />
choose a different courtyard every night for<br />
dinner, each giving you a different view. Set at<br />
the foot of the White Mountain, the hotel has<br />
commanding views of the salt lakes of Siwa and<br />
their native and migratory birdlife.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 15
Introduction to Egyptian history<br />
Tomb painting, Luxor<br />
Kiosk of Trajan, Philae Temple<br />
Ancient Egypt<br />
Ancient Egypt’s history stretches over 3,000<br />
years, and making sense of its various dynasties,<br />
pharaohs, gods, myths and legends is a challenge<br />
to most visitors. Visiting a variety of pyramids,<br />
temples and tombs during your trip goes some<br />
way to putting this history into context, but you<br />
may find that a detailed guidebook wouldn’t go<br />
amiss either.<br />
The history starts with the legendary founding<br />
of the Ancient Egyptian kingdom, under Pharaoh<br />
Menes, in around 3100 BC. This pharaoh,<br />
according to myth, unified the two kingdoms of<br />
Upper and Lower Egypt, consolidating them<br />
under one crown. From that moment, the<br />
Egyptians created one of the most developed<br />
civilisations of the ancient world. A complex<br />
series of myths featuring thousands of gods<br />
sprung up, helping the Egyptians to explain the<br />
creation of the earth and nature. Inventions such<br />
as papyrus paper and the hieroglyphic system of<br />
writing meant these myths were disseminated<br />
and recorded for posterity. In the last years of<br />
the Ancient Egyptian civilisation a series of<br />
foreign powers, including the Hellenistic forces<br />
of Alexander the Great, and the Roman Empire,<br />
began to hold sway over the lands, bringing to<br />
an end this great influence on the world’s history.<br />
Karnak Temple<br />
Monk, St Anthony’s Monastery<br />
Christian Egypt<br />
Following the Ancient Egyptians, the Hellenistic<br />
Ptolemaic dynasty and then the Romans ruled<br />
Egypt, bringing with them their own gods and<br />
religious myths. According to local tradition,<br />
Christianity was brought to Egypt by St Mark in<br />
around 60 AD, at the time of the Emperor<br />
Nero. In the years following St Mark’s arrival,<br />
local people became frustrated with the<br />
existing rulers from Rome, and were<br />
consequently enthusiastic converts to the new<br />
religion. The Copts, as these converts became<br />
known, encountered difficulties in practising their<br />
new faith and suffered considerable persecution<br />
even after Emperor Constantine made it the<br />
16
Coptic church service, Cairo<br />
Mosaic, Coptic church, Cairo<br />
official religion of the empire. In 451 AD, when<br />
attempts to reconcile Coptic beliefs and<br />
practices with those of Byzantium failed, the<br />
division became final and the Copts established<br />
their own Patriarchate in Alexandria.<br />
Ancient churches are found throughout Egypt,<br />
but particularly in Coptic Cairo. Monasteries in<br />
the midst of the deserts and mountains also<br />
date back over a thousand years in some cases.<br />
St Catherine’s Monastery in the Sinai and St<br />
Paul’s Monastery in the eastern desert are<br />
amongst the most beautiful and isolated religious<br />
buildings in the world. Today, Coptic Christians<br />
make up approximately ten per cent of the<br />
Egyptian population and have historically been<br />
very important in the political arena with<br />
Boutros Boutros Ghali being perhaps the most<br />
well-known Copt.<br />
St George’s Greek Orthodox Church, Coptic Cairo<br />
Citadel, Cairo<br />
Islamic Egypt<br />
The Arabs arrived in the 7th century AD,<br />
coming from the Arabian Peninsula to the lands<br />
of Egypt, soon after the time of the Prophet<br />
Mohammed. From this time onwards, Islam<br />
became the dominant religion of the area and<br />
remains the official state religion of Egypt.<br />
Since the 7th century, the country has been<br />
ruled by a succession of Islamic dynasties and<br />
empires – the Umayyads, Abbasids, Tulunids,<br />
Fatimids, Ayyubids, Mamlukes and Ottomans<br />
have all left their mark on the country’s history.<br />
The remnants of the golden ages of Islam can<br />
be seen throughout Egypt, but especially so in<br />
Cairo, which is practically a living museum of<br />
Islamic architecture. Buildings such as the Ibn<br />
Tulun Mosque, the Al-Azhar Mosque and the<br />
Citadel of Saladin all date to different periods<br />
of Islamic history and this is reflected in the<br />
styles and subtleties of their architecture.<br />
Nowadays, Egypt is perhaps even more<br />
devout than it was a century ago, demonstrated<br />
by the overflowing mosques every Friday, the<br />
minarets which soar into Cairo’s skyline and<br />
the enthusiasm with which Muslim Egyptians<br />
celebrate festivals such as Ramadan, Eid Al-Adha<br />
and the saints’ birthdays.<br />
Mosque and madrassa of Sultan Barquq, Cairo<br />
Mosque lamps for sale, Cairo<br />
Timeline<br />
3100 BC The two kingdoms of Lower and<br />
Upper Egypt are united.<br />
2560 BC Great Pyramid of Giza completed.<br />
2500 BC The Sphinx completed.<br />
1425 BC Egyptian power at its zenith,<br />
controlling territory from the north<br />
of Syria to southern Sudan.<br />
1350 BC Rule of Akhenaten and his wife<br />
Nefertiti, succeeded by his son<br />
Tutankhamun.<br />
1279 BC Rameses the Great ascends the<br />
throne. During his reign many temples<br />
and monuments are built throughout<br />
Egypt, including the incredible temples<br />
of Abu Simbel.<br />
552 BC Cambyses II conquers Egypt and makes<br />
it part of the vast Persian Empire.<br />
332 BC Alexander the Great conquers Egypt,<br />
his successors establish the city of<br />
Alexandria and usher in the<br />
Ptolemaic era.<br />
30 BC Egypt becomes a province of the<br />
Roman empire after the defeat of the<br />
Ptolemaic Queen Cleopatra and her<br />
Roman ally Marc Anthony.<br />
60 AD Christianity arrives in Egypt.<br />
646 AD Muslim conquest of Egypt.<br />
1517 AD Conquest of Egypt by the Ottomans.<br />
1798 AD Napoleon Bonaparte briefly conquers<br />
Egypt before being expelled by<br />
Ottoman, Mamluk and British forces.<br />
1805 AD Muhammad Ali, founder of modern<br />
Egypt, takes the throne.<br />
1875 AD Egypt becomes a de facto British<br />
protectorate.<br />
1922 AD Sultan Fuad 1 becomes leader of an<br />
independent Egypt, succeeded by his<br />
son King Farouk.<br />
1922 AD Howard Carter discovers the tomb<br />
of Tutankhamun.<br />
1953 AD Egypt declared a republic, Gamal<br />
Abdel Nasser becomes President<br />
shortly afterwards.<br />
1970 AD Completion of Aswan High Dam<br />
leads to formation of Lake Nasser.<br />
2011 AD Egyptians vote in the country’s first<br />
free elections.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 17
Luxor temple by night<br />
Felucca on the Nile at Luxor<br />
Luxor<br />
Located on the east bank of the Nile, most of<br />
the town of Luxor is modern, but has grown up<br />
around a phenomenal concentration of ancient<br />
monuments, including the world famous Karnak<br />
and Luxor temples. Cross the Nile to the west<br />
bank and you enter the necropolis of Thebes<br />
(the Ancient Egyptian name for Luxor), where the<br />
Ancient Egyptians’ buried their dead. There are a<br />
number of impressive funerary temples, but it is<br />
the tombs which draw people here. Carved into<br />
the rock, their decorations are still rich after<br />
thousands of years.<br />
18<br />
The Temples of Luxor<br />
and Karnak<br />
The Temple of Luxor is located at the heart<br />
of modern Luxor, its ancient columns<br />
incongruously set against new roads, buildings<br />
and the paraphernalia of a 21st century<br />
street. It was dedicated to the god Amun, his<br />
wife Mut and their son the moon god Khons.<br />
In common with all Egyptian religious<br />
complexes, it features chapels to the gods,<br />
a large hypostyle hall and a colonnaded open<br />
courtyard. The temple of Luxor was linked<br />
to that of Karnak by a street flanked by<br />
sphinxes, some of which can be seen on the<br />
edge of the temple complex. Karnak Temple,<br />
a little way outside Luxor, was built over a<br />
120 year period, and so consequently lacks<br />
continuity in its design and style.<br />
The entrance to Luxor Temple<br />
Statue of Thutmosis III, Karnak Temple<br />
This can be discerned when exploring the<br />
different temples, which date to the times<br />
of various different pharaohs. The hypostyle<br />
hall of 134 columns is truly a special sight<br />
to behold and even visitors who have<br />
been to Karnak before cannot fail to be<br />
impressed once again by the sheer scale of<br />
what they see.
The Valley of the Kings<br />
The Theban necropolis is found on the<br />
west bank of the Nile at Luxor, and is one<br />
of the most visited attractions in Egypt, and<br />
perhaps the world. Here funerary temples<br />
and tombs are are so well-preserved that<br />
they have taught archaeologists and historians<br />
a great deal about Ancient Egyptian history<br />
and legends, as well as the funerary practices<br />
of this civilisation.<br />
The Valley of the Kings is usually the<br />
focus of most trips to the west bank, with<br />
its tombs cut into the surrounding hillside.<br />
The paintings on the walls of these tombs<br />
seem as fresh as the day they were<br />
completed, yet they date back over<br />
3,000 years.<br />
Tomb reliefs, Valley of the Kings<br />
The gods Horus and Isis, Temple of Hathor, Dendera<br />
Elsewhere, the remains of massive funerary<br />
temples are found, though only a few remain.<br />
Those dedicated to Hatchepsut, Ramses II<br />
and Ramses III are the best preserved and<br />
a visit to the west bank would not be<br />
complete without including at least one of<br />
these. There are still more tombs to be<br />
seen, in the Valley of the Queens and the<br />
Tombs of the Nobles, with paintings that<br />
are equally as impressive as those in the<br />
Valley of the Kings.<br />
Detail from tomb, Valley of the Kings<br />
Hilton Luxor Resort & Spa<br />
HILTON LUXOR RESORT & SPA<br />
The Hilton is the most luxurious and<br />
contemporary hotel in the city, with majestic<br />
views over the Nile. It has one of the most<br />
impressive spa complexes in Egypt, with an<br />
amazing infinity pool and an incredible location<br />
right next to the Nile. Rooms are comfortable<br />
and spacious and for extra luxury you could<br />
choose to stay in one of the Spa Suites. You can<br />
enjoy a sundowner or a shisha pipe in real<br />
comfort, looking out over the Nile. The hotel<br />
is just a 15 minute walk from Karnak Temple,<br />
which you can visit at any time under your<br />
own steam.<br />
AL MOUDIRA, LUXOR<br />
On the outskirts of Gezira, a small village on the<br />
west bank at Luxor, Al Moudira is an oasis of<br />
calm away from the touts and trinket sellers of<br />
the town. Built by a Lebanese lady, it is one of<br />
the few hotels in Egypt with a truly Arab sense<br />
of style. Moorish arches and peaceful courtyards<br />
give the feel of an Ottoman palace, and the<br />
colours used are those found in the nearby<br />
tombs and temples. In the rooms, high ceilings<br />
and traditional designs and furniture complete<br />
the sense of a luxurious retreat after a busy<br />
day’s sightseeing.<br />
Sofitel Winter Palace, Luxor<br />
SOFITEL WINTER PALACE, LUXOR<br />
One of the most famous hotels in Egypt, the<br />
Winter Palace was built in the late 19th century<br />
to provide accommodation for visiting English<br />
nobility. It was here that Howard Carter was<br />
staying (courtesy of Lord Carnarvon) when he<br />
discovered Tutankhamun’s tomb. A building of<br />
real character, it occupies a prime location on the<br />
Nile Corniche in Luxor. The hotel was recently<br />
renovated and the 86 rooms have marvellous<br />
high ceilings and period furnishings. A grand place<br />
to stay when exploring the temples of Luxor.<br />
Al Moudira, Luxor<br />
Goddess of Hathor, Dendera<br />
Dendera & Abydos<br />
Dendera is just over 30 miles north of Luxor<br />
along the Nile valley, near the town of Qena.<br />
There was a temple here dating back at least to<br />
the time of Cheops and the Old Kingdom<br />
(around 2560 BC), although much of what you<br />
see today is Ptolemaic in origin (around 300 BC).<br />
The temple was dedicated to the worship of<br />
Hathor, the goddess of joy and love, equated<br />
with the Greek Aphrodite. The goddess takes on<br />
bovine form, a possible link to a time when the<br />
Sahara was fertile grazing ground. At Dendera this<br />
is best seen in the column capitals, sculpted to<br />
form the goddess’ head, complete with long<br />
cow’s ears. Nearby, the temple of Seti I at<br />
Abydos occupies an important place in the<br />
religious history of Pharaonic Egypt. By the end<br />
of the Old Kingdom its local god, Osiris, was the<br />
most prominent and popular of the Egyptian gods<br />
since he was the god of the afterlife. According to<br />
tradition, Osiris’ head was buried in Abydos.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 19
Feluccas on the Nile, Aswan<br />
Edfu Temple<br />
Between Luxor and Aswan lie a number of<br />
archaeological sites, one of the most important<br />
of which is Edfu Temple. On the site where,<br />
according to Ancient Egyptian legend, the god<br />
Horus defeated the god Seth, Ptolemy III<br />
Euergetes began construction of a temple<br />
dedicated to Horus. Six pharaohs later it was<br />
complete, the second largest temple in Ancient<br />
Egypt after Karnak.<br />
Kom Ombo Temple<br />
Another important site, Kom Ombo is a<br />
Ptolemaic temple. Unusually it is dedicated to two<br />
different gods: Sobek, god of the Nile, normally<br />
represented by a crocodile, and Haroeris who<br />
was an older manifestation of Horus. To reflect<br />
this dual dedication, the temple is essentially<br />
mirrored down a central line, with two entrances<br />
and perfectly symmetrical construction right down<br />
to the twin sanctuaries to the two gods.<br />
Temple of Horus, Edfu<br />
20<br />
Sofitel Legend Old Cateract, Aswan<br />
Aswan<br />
Aswan is easily the prettiest town in Egypt and<br />
although not as rich in sights as Luxor, still has<br />
the picture-perfect Temple of Philae and the<br />
monumental High Dam. Feluccas sail on the<br />
winding Nile, past rounded boulders and palmfringed<br />
islands. The steep western banks of the<br />
river lead into the desert, the horizon broken<br />
only by the faint outlines of the Monastery of<br />
St Simeon and the Aga Khan’s Mausoleum.<br />
The town has a large Nubian population, some<br />
of whom were displaced from their original<br />
homeland following the creation of Lake Nasser.<br />
Today they live in villages on the Nile islands and<br />
their heritage and culture are celebrated in the<br />
fantastic Nubian Museum, one of the best<br />
museums in Egypt.<br />
SOFITEL LEGEND OLD<br />
CATARACT, ASWAN<br />
The Old Cataract is one of the prettiest hotels<br />
in one of the most scenic locations in Egypt and,<br />
since being renovated, one of the most luxurious<br />
too. Seemingly cut off from the town of Aswan<br />
itself, it faces out over the Nile to Elephantine<br />
Island and the sands of the Sahara beyond. The<br />
hotel itself is over a century old and its 138<br />
rooms have a wonderful mix of Arabesque and<br />
Edwardian style, with horseshoe arches, marble<br />
floors and delicate wooden screens. The bar and<br />
restaurant at the front of the hotel are the best<br />
place from which to view an Aswan sunset.<br />
BASMA HOTEL, ASWAN<br />
Perched on Aswan’s highest hill, this four star<br />
complex commands a breathtaking view of the<br />
Nile River as it snakes through the picturesque<br />
town of Aswan. It offers great value for money<br />
and is a good hotel for a short stay in the town.<br />
The large pool and garden terrace are the perfect<br />
place to relax and enjoy the sunshine, while the<br />
210 rooms are comfortable and decorated with<br />
original artwork by local artists.
Nubian men at the market, Aswan<br />
Mövenpick, Aswan<br />
MÖVENPICK, ASWAN<br />
Perched in the middle of the Nile, the Mövenpick<br />
is a very pleasant place to stay, perfect for<br />
relaxation after a hard day’s sightseeing. Sitting on<br />
one of the islands in the river, it boasts excellent<br />
views and beautiful gardens. The refurbished<br />
rooms are very tastefully furnished and there are<br />
very good sports facilities. The swimming pool is<br />
without question Aswan’s finest.<br />
Aswan High Dam<br />
The Aswan High Dam was built in the 1960s<br />
with assistance from the Soviet Union, replacing<br />
an earlier British-built dam. It is a huge, impressive<br />
structure. From the top of the dam, the wall<br />
drops steeply to power stations and the valley<br />
floor below, whilst to the south Lake Nasser<br />
stretches away as far as the eye can see. Off to<br />
one side of the dam is a large monument,<br />
shaped like a lotus blossom, a memorial to<br />
Soviet-Egyptian co-operation. The High Dam has<br />
assured Egypt of the possibility of three harvests<br />
a year and reduced the likelihood of famine,<br />
but not without damage to the environment<br />
and the country’s cultural heritage. The lands of<br />
Nubia were all but entirely submerged following<br />
the creation of Lake Nasser, with the loss of<br />
entire villages.<br />
Relief at Kom Ombo<br />
Philae Temple<br />
As the water rose behind the original British-built<br />
Aswan Dam, the Temple of Philae became partly<br />
submerged for half of the year, and visitors passed<br />
through the halls and colonnades by boat. With<br />
the construction of the High Dam, it became<br />
apparent that the temple would be completely<br />
submerged, along with several other key Nubian<br />
monuments. Philae was consequently moved to<br />
an island, to preserve the special atmosphere of<br />
the temple. A centre for the cult of Isis, in Roman<br />
times worship of this cult spread far and wide in<br />
the Empire, and it was Christianity’s principal rival<br />
between the 3rd and the 5th centuries. Today,<br />
after a short boat ride, you disembark into a<br />
colonnaded courtyard which leads into the<br />
temple itself, flanked by wonderfully carved<br />
pylons. Adjacent is the Kiosk of Trajan, a small<br />
compact temple with delightfully carved columns.<br />
Coffee break, Nubian style<br />
Nubian Egypt<br />
Responsible for some of the world’s<br />
finest historical treasures, the Nubians<br />
were renowned for their wealth, culture<br />
and military might. A nomadic people<br />
of northern Sudan and southern Egypt,<br />
they developed one of the greatest<br />
civilisations in Africa and were much<br />
admired and respected by the Ancient<br />
Egyptians. Sadly, much of Nubia is now<br />
submerged under Lake Nasser, and<br />
whilst numerous temples were salvaged,<br />
the villages of the Nubians had to be<br />
abandoned, with inhabitants rehoused<br />
further north in and around Aswan.<br />
Nonetheless, there has been a revival<br />
of interest in Nubian culture and history,<br />
demonstrated by the wonderful Nubian<br />
Museum in Aswan.<br />
Kiosk of Trajan, Philae Temple<br />
www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 21
Nile Cruises<br />
Ruins on the banks of the Nile<br />
Cruising the Nile has long been seen as the<br />
most romantic way to visit the monuments of<br />
Ancient Egypt. Most Nile cruises today ply the<br />
waters between Luxor and Aswan, visiting the<br />
major sites at both towns and along the course<br />
of the river. The boats are essentially floating<br />
hotels and sightseeing is done in organised<br />
groups. There are a huge number of Nile cruise<br />
ships and given the relative scarcity of good<br />
hotels in the region, a Nile cruise is, for many<br />
people, the best way to see Upper Egypt.<br />
Routes<br />
Cruises take between three and seven nights<br />
to complete their itinerary. In general, the stops<br />
along the way are the same no matter which<br />
boat you choose and no matter which way you<br />
are travelling along the river. Visits will include<br />
places such as the Aswan High Dam, Philae<br />
Temple, Edfu and Kom Ombo Temples, the<br />
Valley of the Kings and Karnak Temple. Some of<br />
the longer itineraries may include Dendera and<br />
Abydos and some dahabiyyas (traditional style<br />
boats) stop at smaller sites and islands, where it<br />
is impossible for the large cruise boats to moor.<br />
View of Luxor from the Nile<br />
Boat captain, Steam Ship Sudan<br />
Life on board<br />
The boats that we use have spacious communal<br />
areas, including an upper deck where you can<br />
take full advantage of the Nile scenery.<br />
Comfortable seating or sunbeds adorn the<br />
decks. Some boats have a small plunge pool,<br />
providing the perfect opportunity to cool off.<br />
There is a bar or lounge, usually open in the<br />
evening and providing the perfect place to relax<br />
on comfortable sofas and enjoy a cocktail<br />
before dinner. The restaurants on board offer<br />
buffet-style or à la carte meals, with all cruises<br />
operating on a full board basis. All of the boats<br />
we offer have double or twin bed en suite<br />
cabins with panoramic windows. All the rooms<br />
are air-conditioned and may have additional<br />
benefits, such as a fridge, TV or balcony. The<br />
number of cabins depends on the boat that<br />
you choose and suites are available for extra<br />
space. Excursions are usually done in the<br />
mornings and afternoons, in groups of around<br />
15 people, with a qualified guide.<br />
Choosing a boat<br />
There is a huge range of choice when it<br />
comes to picking a Nile cruise, from the small<br />
dahabiyyas (traditional boats with just eight<br />
cabins each) offering long, unusual itineraries,<br />
to the grand luxury of the large cruise boats<br />
which provide suites for all their passengers.<br />
Boats with character are available, including a<br />
refurbished steamship, once in the possession<br />
of the Egyptian royal family, while other cruises<br />
have all sorts of facilities for a very comfortable<br />
stay, such as plunge pools, spa treatments and<br />
small gyms.<br />
22
Steam Ship Sudan<br />
Hadeel Dahabiyya<br />
Presidential Nile cruise ship<br />
STEAM SHIP SUDAN<br />
Built in 1885, for King Fouad, this steamship<br />
has had many eminent guests over the years.<br />
Agatha Christie was inspired to write Death on<br />
the Nile after travelling on the boat and decades<br />
later, the Steam Ship Sudan provided the set for<br />
many of the film’s scenes. With just 23 cabins,<br />
five of which are suites, there is a cosy, intimate<br />
air on board. The boat is propelled by a hybrid<br />
diesel/steam engine, resulting in a quieter and<br />
more energy-efficient journey. The Steam Ship<br />
Sudan offers three and four night itineraries.<br />
HADEEL DAHABIYYA<br />
The Hadeel is a Nile dahabiyya boat with only<br />
eight cabins, offering a combination of traditional<br />
style and modern luxury. The public areas evoke<br />
a colonial atmosphere with dark wood panelling<br />
and lavish furniture. Itineraries include additional<br />
visits not offered on other Nile programmes.<br />
The Hadeel can also moor on islands in the<br />
Nile for refreshments and relaxation, meaning<br />
it can offer a range of enjoyable extras to a<br />
typical Nile cruise. The seven night itineraries<br />
are extremely relaxing.<br />
PRESIDENTIAL NILE CRUISES<br />
The Presidential Nile cruise ships are among<br />
the larger boats travelling between Luxor and<br />
Aswan, often catering for slightly bigger groups<br />
than the smaller boats. Standards of comfort<br />
and service are good but not luxurious,<br />
however they are perfectly adequate and offer<br />
great value. The cabins are comfortable and<br />
spacious, and all are air-conditioned with a good<br />
sized window. Each boat has a sizeable sun deck<br />
with a small pool area. You can do three, four,<br />
six or seven night trips on the Presidential boats.<br />
Sanctuary M/S Nile Adventurer<br />
M/S Sonesta Star Goddess<br />
Mövenpick M/S Royal Lily<br />
SANCTUARY M/S NILE<br />
ADVENTURER<br />
With only 32 cabins, the Sanctuary M/S Nile<br />
Adventurer offers an extra sense of space which<br />
really contributes to the relaxing atmosphere on<br />
board. The boat was completely renovated in<br />
2009, and has all the comforts you would<br />
expect. The Nile Adventurer has private docking<br />
areas in Luxor and Aswan, meaning that the<br />
boat is not moored alongside other vessels.<br />
Itineraries are of three or four night duration.<br />
M/S SONESTA MOON AND<br />
STAR GODDESS<br />
The Moon and Star Goddess boats both offer<br />
excellent facilities and standards of service.<br />
The Star Goddess is a smaller, more modern<br />
boat with just 33 cabins, while the Moon<br />
Goddess offers a more traditional style, with<br />
39 cabins. Cabins on both are large and very<br />
comfortable, boasting a private balcony and<br />
large bathroom. Itineraries are of three or four<br />
night duration.<br />
MÖVENPICK M/S ROYAL LILY<br />
AND ROYAL LOTUS<br />
The Lily and Lotus were launched towards the<br />
end of 2007. There are 56 cabins and four<br />
suites, all with air-conditioning, TV and en suite<br />
bathrooms. The salon decks with panoramic<br />
windows are equipped with a lounge and bar,<br />
while the sun decks each have a swimming pool<br />
and heated whirlpool, as well as a canopied area<br />
for shelter. The Mövenpick boats offer trips of<br />
three and four night duration.<br />
Om Kolthoum Dahabiyya<br />
Oberoi Zahra<br />
M/S Tiyi<br />
OM KOLTHOUM DAHABIYYA<br />
Named after a famous Egyptian singer, the Om<br />
Kolthoum Dahabiyya offers eight comfortable,<br />
well-equipped cabins. There is a sun deck with<br />
a small Jacuzzi for relaxation and contemporary<br />
decor throughout. This is a good choice for<br />
those who prefer a more modern cruise.<br />
Itineraries are a relaxed seven nights.<br />
OBEROI ZAHRA<br />
The Oberoi Zahra sets the standards in luxury<br />
for those cruising the Nile. The 25 suites are<br />
tastefully appointed, their large windows offering<br />
panoramic views of the Nile. The restaurant<br />
offers a daily changing menu, while the spa<br />
opens regularly to leave its visitors pampered<br />
and relaxed. The seven night itinerary<br />
incorporates visits to all the major sites.<br />
M/S TUYA AND TIYI<br />
The M/S Tuya and Tiyi offer a great value way<br />
to see the Nile. There are 60 cabins on board,<br />
each of a decent size, and well equipped with<br />
all necessary amenities. There is a pool and<br />
Jacuzzi on the sun deck, perfect for relaxing<br />
in-between sightseeing. The Tuya and Tiyi each<br />
offer three and four night itineraries.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 23
Kiosk of Kertassi, Kalabsha Temple, Lake Nasser<br />
Lake Nasser<br />
Formed behind the massive High Dam at Aswan,<br />
Lake Nasser is the world’s largest reservoir,<br />
stretching almost 500 kilometres to the south.<br />
The ancient temples of Abu Simbel were<br />
famously moved, block-by-block, out of the<br />
reaches of the rising waters, as were many smaller<br />
examples now on the lake shore. Not as grand as<br />
the likes of Karnak, their setting is a large part of<br />
their appeal, framed by the shimmering lake and<br />
the vast desert beyond. Cruising here is one of<br />
the few hidden treasures left in Egypt – just a few<br />
boats sail the lake, so you can enjoy the stunning<br />
scenery in peace.<br />
Column at Kalabsha Temple, Lake Nasser<br />
Fishermen, Lake Nasser<br />
24<br />
M/S Kasr Ibrim<br />
M/S KASR IBRIM<br />
One of only eight boats cruising on Lake Nasser,<br />
the Kasr Ibrim is an art deco masterpiece,<br />
recreating the look of a 1920s paddle steamer.<br />
Curved wooden furniture, cream decor and<br />
period fittings complement a wonderful large sun<br />
deck, with a good sized pool and steps to<br />
different deck levels, including a large restaurant<br />
and bar deck. The cabins are not especially large<br />
but are extremely comfortable and well designed,<br />
with each boasting a private balcony. These<br />
touches are important, as there is plenty of time<br />
to relax and watch the scenery go by.
Entrance to Abu Simbel temple<br />
Sun deck, Mövenpick M/S Prince Abbas<br />
MÖVENPICK M/S PRINCE ABBAS<br />
The Mövenpick Prince Abbas has 65 tastefully<br />
decorated and spacious cabins and en suite<br />
modern bathrooms, offering guests every home<br />
comfort. Gym equipment, a refreshing plunge<br />
pool and a heated Jacuzzi are located on the<br />
spacious sun deck. The boat is a good value<br />
option on Lake Nasser and includes sightseeing of<br />
all the main temples along the banks of the lake.<br />
Abu Simbel<br />
The most famous of the rescued temples of Lake<br />
Nasser are those at Abu Simbel. They were built<br />
by Ramses the Great on the edge of his empire<br />
to impress his might and power upon all those<br />
entering Egypt. Huge statues of this pharaoh form<br />
the façade of the larger of the two temples and<br />
have become one of Egypt’s iconic images. If you<br />
have the time, one of the best ways to appreciate<br />
them is to arrive by boat on a Lake Nasser cruise.<br />
For those on a tighter schedule it is possible to<br />
visit as a day trip from Aswan, flying in and out<br />
for a tour of the temples.<br />
Nubian man, Abu Simbel<br />
Wadi El-Seboua, on the shores of Lake Nasser<br />
Cruising on Lake Nasser with Abu Simbel in the background<br />
www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 25
Fish and coral, Red Sea<br />
The Red Sea<br />
It is easy to incorporate a stay at the Red Sea<br />
into your Egyptian itinerary. This is a good way to<br />
unwind at the end of a long trip packed with<br />
sightseeing. From Luxor you can travel overland<br />
to the mainland Red Sea coast, or catch a flight<br />
to Sharm El Sheikh. There are miles of wonderful<br />
coastline, from the developed shores around<br />
Sharm El Sheikh to the exclusive resorts on the<br />
mainland coastline, north and south of Hurghada.<br />
As well as the chance to relax on a beach, time<br />
can also be spent snorkelling and diving on the<br />
spectacular coral reefs or exploring nearby sights.<br />
Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh, near Hurghada<br />
26<br />
Hurghada and El Quseir<br />
Hurghada and El Quseir are both within a few<br />
hours drive of each other on the western Red<br />
Sea coast. The reefs in this area are among the<br />
most pristine to be found in the Red Sea, some<br />
of them accessible from the shore, and ideal for<br />
snorkelling. Hurghada is a popular resort but has<br />
a few secluded accommodation options with<br />
private beaches. El Quseir is a smaller place,<br />
relatively unspoilt by tourism and retaining a<br />
charm all of its own. A refreshing alternative to<br />
some of Egypt’s more well known beach resorts,<br />
it is perfect for those who want to combine<br />
relaxation and tranquility with some of the best<br />
diving in the Red Sea.<br />
THE OBEROI SAHL HASHEESH,<br />
NEAR HURGHADA<br />
The Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh was the first luxury<br />
suite-only resort to open on the Red Sea coast.<br />
It is an exclusive and sophisticated haven, set on<br />
a private white sand beach with panoramic views<br />
of the sea. The 102 suites nestle in 20 hectares<br />
of perfectly maintained grounds, and the<br />
architectural style includes arches, domes and<br />
columns. Each suite has a private walled courtyard<br />
to guarantee privacy and peace, while upgrades<br />
are available for suites with their own pools.<br />
Dining and recreational facilities are superb and<br />
the service is impeccable. This is one of the best<br />
hotels in the country.<br />
Radisson Blu Resort, El Quseir<br />
RADISSON BLU RESORT,<br />
EL QUSEIR<br />
A good value choice in the El Quseir area, the<br />
Radisson Blu is built in a traditional style, reflecting<br />
local architectural methods and boasting some<br />
attractive interior design. From the two main à la<br />
carte restaurants to the sheesha bar and the<br />
striking lobby, a modern but authentic Middle<br />
Eastern look predominates, with stylish furnishings<br />
and numerous Moorish archways. All of the 250<br />
rooms are light and comfortable, with modern<br />
en suite bathrooms and a spacious veranda with<br />
views out to the Red Sea. It is not easy to swim<br />
direct from the beach due to the abundance of<br />
coral, so there is a jetty from which to enter the<br />
sea, where the snorkelling is excellent. As well<br />
as two large pools, the Radisson Blu has a<br />
wonderful Ayurvedic spa, including four beautiful<br />
massage rooms and a lovely relaxation area with<br />
a small pool.
Patterned door, El Quseir<br />
St Catherine’s Monastery<br />
Sharm El Sheikh<br />
For many years, Sharm El Sheikh, or just Sharm<br />
as it is more commonly known, has been a<br />
magnet for visitors seeking beaches and fantastic<br />
diving and snorkelling. As a result, the town itself<br />
is very much geared towards the mass market,<br />
with the full array of shops, restaurants and<br />
nightclubs. However, many of the hotels are<br />
self-contained resorts and you need never<br />
experience downtown Sharm should you not<br />
want to. Staying here gives you access to places<br />
of interest nearby, including Mount Sinai and<br />
St Catherine’s Monastery.<br />
FOUR SEASONS RESORT,<br />
SHARM EL SHEIKH<br />
Set amid lush landscaping and designed to<br />
resemble a hillside village, the Four Seasons<br />
Resort has beautiful courtyards and cooling<br />
swimming pools connected by shady paths.<br />
All 136 rooms are decorated in wonderful<br />
Arabesque style with superb furnishings, and<br />
many have views over the Red Sea. Guests can<br />
expect the high standards of service that are the<br />
hallmark of Four Seasons hotels, along with<br />
excellent recreational facilities. The location of<br />
the hotel is also perfect, within easy reach of the<br />
restaurants, shops and dive centres in the heart<br />
of Sharm, but far enough away to remain quiet<br />
and exclusive.<br />
Le Méridien Dahab Resort<br />
St Catherine’s Monastery<br />
and Mount Sinai<br />
At the heart of the Sinai Peninsula is Mount Sinai,<br />
where the Ten Commandments were revealed<br />
to Moses, overlooking the valley where he<br />
encountered the Burning Bush. On this site in<br />
337 AD, the Byzantine Empress Helena founded a<br />
monastery. The number of monks soon dwindled,<br />
until there was a timely boost when the remains<br />
of St Catherine, an early Christian martyr, were<br />
found nearby. Today the monastery is open to<br />
visitors who can admire the 6th century Church<br />
of St Catherine, the medieval monks’ quarters<br />
which are still used in the present day, and a<br />
shrub reputedly descended from the Burning<br />
Bush. Trekking up Mount Sinai is best done in the<br />
early hours of the morning, so that you can still<br />
get to the monastery during the morning opening<br />
times. You will also get wonderful views as the<br />
sun comes up over the Sinai mountains.<br />
Four Seasons Resort, Sharm El Sheikh<br />
Bedouin woman, Sinai Peninsula<br />
Dahab<br />
Dahab is one of the most relaxed towns in Egypt,<br />
and is easily accessed from Sharm El Sheikh<br />
airport. Located on the Red Sea coast, it is<br />
surrounded by mountains and stretches of beach.<br />
Wind and waves have drawn the windsurfing<br />
community here and they have perpetuated the<br />
laid-back atmosphere that grew in the town<br />
during the Sixties. A spell in Dahab offers the<br />
chance to unwind and get off the tourist trail a<br />
bit, whilst still being able to snorkel on the reefs<br />
and visit the inland sights of the Sinai Peninsula.<br />
LE MÉRIDIEN DAHAB RESORT<br />
Le Méridien Dahab Resort has 182 spacious<br />
guestrooms and suites, excellent facilities and<br />
spectacular sea views. The rooms have been<br />
carefully designed so that light fills the rooms in<br />
the mornings and the beds look directly out to<br />
the Red Sea. Particularly attractive are the infinity<br />
pool and the central areas of the hotel, which<br />
enjoy unbroken views over the water.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 27
Cairo<br />
Luxor<br />
Edfu<br />
Aswan<br />
Kom Ombo<br />
Kom Ombo<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Egypt specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 410<br />
Getting around<br />
Your trip to Egypt may include many types of<br />
transport. Private sightseeing and transfers will be<br />
in air-conditioned vehicles. For excursions in<br />
larger groups, such as those from Nile cruises,<br />
minibuses and coaches are used. A Nile cruise is<br />
a comfortable and convenient way to take in<br />
the sites along the Nile – see our guide on pages<br />
22-23. Given the size of the country, most<br />
people tend to take at least a couple of domestic<br />
flights as well.<br />
Islamic Cairo at night<br />
28<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Egypt is seen as a winter destination, with most<br />
visitors arriving between October and April.<br />
At this time of year, Cairo and Lower Egypt<br />
(the area towards the Mediterranean) are<br />
pleasantly cool, with average maximum<br />
temperatures in the low twenties Celsius. Upper<br />
Egypt, around Aswan and Luxor, tends to be a<br />
few degrees warmer, but still very pleasant.<br />
There may be some rain in Lower Egypt but it is<br />
light and sporadic. The summer season from May<br />
to September is hot, especially in Upper Egypt,<br />
where temperatures can hit 50C. The high<br />
temperatures are somewhat alleviated by very dry<br />
air and the air-conditioned vehicles and buildings.<br />
Combined with lower prices and far fewer<br />
visitors, this also makes summer a viable season<br />
for your trip – especially May and September,<br />
which are not nearly as hot as June, July and<br />
August. Please ask your specialist for further<br />
information about the best times to travel.<br />
Time difference: GMT+2 hour<br />
Flight time from UK: 5 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Egypt on our website, alternatively<br />
please call our specialists to discuss your plans.<br />
Highlights of Egypt<br />
A fabulous first trip to Egypt, this itinerary will<br />
introduce you to all the main highlights of the<br />
country, taking in Cairo, Aswan and Luxor and still<br />
including some relaxation time on your Nile cruise.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Fly from the UK and spend three<br />
nights in Cairo.<br />
Visit the pyramid fields of Giza,<br />
Saqqara and Dashur.<br />
Discover the mosques of Islamic<br />
Cairo before heading to the<br />
Egyptian Museum.<br />
Fly from Cairo to Luxor and board<br />
your Nile cruise. In the afternoon,<br />
visit the Karnak and Luxor Temples.<br />
Explore the Valley of the Kings and<br />
other sites on the west bank of the<br />
Nile. The boat then begins its cruise<br />
to the south.<br />
Visit Edfu Temple in the morning<br />
before the boat sails on to Kom<br />
Ombo, where you visit the Temple<br />
of Sobek and Haroeris.<br />
The boat moves on to Aswan, where<br />
you visit the Temple of Philae and<br />
the Aswan High Dam.<br />
Disembark the boat and fly from<br />
Aswan back to Cairo and from Cairo<br />
back to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
The itinerary can be extended with extra nights<br />
in Luxor and Aswan, so that you can explore<br />
the sites in more detail and include a trip to<br />
Abu Simbel.<br />
Abu Simbel
Suggested itineraries<br />
Alexandria<br />
El Alamein<br />
Alexandria<br />
Cairo<br />
Cairo<br />
Cairo<br />
Siwa<br />
Bahariya<br />
Farafra<br />
Hurghada<br />
Dakhla<br />
Kharga<br />
Luxor<br />
Edfu<br />
Luxor<br />
Kom Ombo<br />
Edfu<br />
Luxor<br />
Kom Ombo<br />
Aswan<br />
Aswan<br />
Abu Simbel<br />
The Desert Circuit<br />
This trip concentrates on some of Egypt’s lesserknown<br />
sites, the oases of the Western Desert.<br />
The circuit offers a compelling insight into life in<br />
this part of Egypt and provides a contrast to the<br />
Ancient Egyptian sites along the Nile.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Days 5-6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Fly from the UK to Cairo, where<br />
you spend two nights.<br />
Visit the pyramid complexes of Giza,<br />
Saqqara and Dashur.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Alexandria for a one<br />
night stay.<br />
Visit El Alamein on your way to Siwa,<br />
a long journey across the desert.<br />
Explore Siwa, Shali Fort, the salt lakes<br />
and hot springs around this oasis.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> from Siwa to Bahariya, passing<br />
through the Western Desert.<br />
Spend time in Bahariya before<br />
continuing to Farafra, passing through<br />
the area known as the White Desert.<br />
Continue to Dakhla, where you visit<br />
archaeological sites in the area.<br />
From Dakhla continue to Kharga, the<br />
last oasis in the desert circuit.<br />
Continue to Luxor, where you stay<br />
for three nights.<br />
Visit Karnak and Luxor Temples.<br />
Explore the sites of the west bank of<br />
the Nile, including the Valley of the<br />
Kings and Hatchepsut’s Temple.<br />
Fly from Luxor to Cairo and from<br />
Cairo to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
You could continue your exploration of Ancient<br />
Egypt by taking a Nile cruise from Luxor to Aswan,<br />
visiting more of the archaeological sites.<br />
Grand Tour of Egypt<br />
Combining a Nile cruise and a Lake Nasser cruise<br />
gives you plenty of scope to explore all the<br />
Ancient Egyptian sites as well as time to relax.<br />
The days in Cairo and Alexandria will introduce<br />
you to these great cities, with their interesting<br />
pasts and fascinating presents.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Fly from the UK to Cairo, where<br />
you spend four nights.<br />
Explore the pyramid fields of Giza,<br />
Saqqara and Dashur.<br />
Visit the Egyptian Museum and<br />
Islamic Cairo.<br />
Explore Coptic Cairo with your<br />
tour guide.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Alexandria, where you<br />
spend two nights.<br />
Spend the day visiting the sights<br />
of Alexandria.<br />
Return to Cairo and fly to Luxor,<br />
where you join your Nile cruise.<br />
Visit Karnak and Luxor Temples.<br />
Tour the West Bank, including the<br />
Valley of the Kings.<br />
Visit the Temple of Horus in Edfu.<br />
Continue to Kom Ombo and visit<br />
the Temple of Sobek and Haroeris.<br />
Sail to Aswan.<br />
Visit the Temple of Philae and the<br />
Aswan High Dam.<br />
Join your Lake Nasser cruise and visit<br />
Kalabsha Temple.<br />
Full day of cruising to Wadi El<br />
Seboua.<br />
Visit lakeside temples and cross the<br />
Tropic of Cancer.<br />
Sail to Abu Simbel and visit the<br />
temples there.<br />
Pyramids, Nile and Beach<br />
This itinerary offers a great introduction to Egypt,<br />
going to all the major archaeological sites and the<br />
bustling capital, Cairo. At the end of the trip you<br />
have the opportunity to relax beside the Red Sea.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Days 9-10<br />
Day 11<br />
Fly from the UK to Cairo, where you<br />
spend three nights.<br />
Visit the pyramids of Giza, Dashur<br />
and Saqqara.<br />
Explore the packed galleries of the<br />
Egyptian Museum in central Cairo.<br />
Fly from Cairo to Aswan.<br />
Visit the Temple of Philae and the<br />
Aswan High Dam.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> from Aswan to Luxor,<br />
stopping to visit the temples of Kom<br />
Ombo and Edfu on your way.<br />
Visit the sites of the west bank of the<br />
Nile, such as the Valley of the Kings<br />
and Hatchepsut’s Temple.<br />
Explore the temples of Luxor and<br />
Karnak, before travelling to the Red<br />
Sea coast.<br />
Spend your time snorkelling and<br />
relaxing by the sea.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> from your Red Sea hotel to<br />
the airport, from where you fly to<br />
Cairo. From Cairo fly back to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
The trip could be extended with extra nights in<br />
Aswan and Luxor, so that you can include more<br />
of the Ancient Egyptian sites, or with extra nights<br />
at the Red Sea if you wish to spend more time<br />
snorkelling and diving on the coral reefs.<br />
Day 15<br />
Day 16<br />
Day 17<br />
Disembark the cruise and fly from<br />
Abu Simbel to Aswan.<br />
A day to explore Aswan or relax at<br />
your hotel.<br />
Fly from Aswan to Cairo and from<br />
Cairo to the UK.<br />
Feluccas on the Nile, near Luxor<br />
www.audleytravel.com/egypt ● 01993 838 410 ● Egypt 29
Jordan<br />
The rose city of Petra has drawn<br />
visitors to Jordan ever since its secret<br />
location was discovered. It is rightfully<br />
considered to be one of the ‘must-see’ sites of<br />
the region, if not the world. The country is<br />
a microcosm of Middle Eastern history.<br />
The Nabateans, biblical characters, Greek<br />
and Roman city-builders, Arab invaders<br />
and Crusader armies have all played out<br />
their roles across a dramatic landscape of<br />
red sandstone canyons, desert expanses and<br />
salt-laden waters. Each has left their mark<br />
in churches bursting with mosaics,<br />
colonnaded streets and fortresses which still<br />
seem impregnable today. More recently,<br />
great efforts by the Royal Society for the<br />
Conservation of Nature (RSCN) have<br />
created beautiful reserves. These are home<br />
to rare fauna such as the Arabian oryx,<br />
and stunning scenery, which can be<br />
explored by following one of the many<br />
hiking trails. In the Dead Sea, the Gulf of<br />
Aqaba and the natural hot springs of Ma’in,<br />
Jordan has three great destinations for<br />
unwinding at the end of a trip, whether<br />
you want to relax in a spa or to dive the<br />
reefs of the Red Sea.<br />
30
<strong>Audley</strong> in Jordan<br />
4<br />
1<br />
5<br />
2<br />
Jordan is a wonderfully varied destination,<br />
offering a comfortable introduction to the<br />
Middle East region. The geography of the<br />
country is such that all the sights combine<br />
easily into logical itineraries, making Jordan a<br />
simple place to visit. It is possible to spend<br />
a week focussing on Petra and the key<br />
highlights, or to take a longer trip to include<br />
all the major archaeological sites, spending<br />
time walking in the nature reserves and<br />
leaving a few days to unwind at Aqaba, on<br />
the Red Sea or by the Dead Sea. We use<br />
private drivers who will usually accompany<br />
you throughout the trip, and local guides at<br />
Petra and Jerash. There are good transport<br />
links with Egypt, Lebanon, Syria and Jerusalem<br />
if you wish to extend your trip further into<br />
the region.<br />
Accommodation<br />
1 Petra<br />
Without doubt the main draw<br />
for visitors to Jordan, Petra has<br />
the power to astound with the<br />
majesty of its monuments and<br />
the natural beauty of its<br />
surroundings.<br />
3<br />
4 The Dead Sea<br />
The Dead Sea offers the<br />
opportunity for relaxation at the<br />
end of a Jordan trip, as well as<br />
the novelty of floating in the<br />
salty water.<br />
5 Crusade-era castles<br />
Ajloun, Kerak and Shawbak<br />
are dotted across the Jordanian<br />
landscape, testament to it’s<br />
Crusader history.<br />
Jerash’s oval plaza<br />
Jordan’s nature reserves<br />
The reserves established by<br />
the Royal Society for the<br />
Conservation of Nature provide<br />
protection for endangered flora<br />
and fauna, as well as a livelihood<br />
for local communities.<br />
With one or two exceptions, there is little<br />
in the way of traditional, characterful<br />
accommodation in Jordan. Most of the<br />
hotels we use are part of international chains,<br />
which deliver good comfort and service, if in<br />
a somewhat uniform style. Most of these<br />
hotels have made at least some efforts to<br />
reflect local design, although in a modern<br />
setting. When visiting the nature reserves,<br />
accommodation varies in style and size but<br />
tends to be quite basic. Some of the reserves<br />
have chalet rooms, others have tented camps<br />
and one has both a simple guesthouse and<br />
an ecolodge. In all instances, the food at the<br />
reserves is locally sourced and freshly<br />
prepared, and employees are all from the<br />
local villages and towns.<br />
The Dead Sea<br />
Find out more<br />
2 Jerash<br />
A Roman town to the north of<br />
the capital, Jerash’s oval plaza<br />
sets the site apart from other<br />
Roman ruins in the region.<br />
3 Wadi Rum<br />
One of the Middle East’s most<br />
spectacular landscapes, Wadi<br />
Rum is a desert of red sand,<br />
punctuated by weathered<br />
rock formations.<br />
Wadi Rum<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Jordan, please<br />
see pages 44-45.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Jordan<br />
specialists 01993 838 415<br />
Jordan 31
Roman Theatre, Amman<br />
Amman<br />
Jordan’s capital is a bustling, modern city, originally<br />
set on seven hills. Many of its buildings are only a<br />
few decades old, with some exceptions dating<br />
from the 1920s to the 1940s, demonstrating the<br />
styles which were in vogue during the mandate<br />
era. Some remnants of older history are still<br />
visible, such as the Roman theatre around which<br />
the downtown area grew. On a hill is the Citadel,<br />
along with a patchwork of Roman, Byzantine and<br />
Umayyad ruins. The Citadel is also the home of<br />
the Jordanian Archaeological Museum. This has<br />
displays about the Dead Sea Scrolls and other<br />
finds, some dating to prehistory, though many<br />
have been relocated to the new Jordan Museum<br />
in downtown Amman. Other museums and<br />
galleries abound, including the Royal Automobile<br />
Museum, established by King Abdullah II.<br />
Amman Citadel<br />
Four Seasons Hotel, Amman<br />
32<br />
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL, AMMAN<br />
Located in the upmarket diplomatic district of<br />
Amman, the Four Seasons has brought its high<br />
standard of exclusive, luxury accommodation to<br />
the capital. The 192 rooms and suites blend<br />
classic and contemporary design, with dark woods<br />
and rich fabrics. Local flavour is introduced in the<br />
Seasons restaurant and the hotel also has Italian<br />
and Asian restaurants as well as several bars.<br />
AL QASR METROPOLE, AMMAN<br />
This hotel has a good location in the Shmeissani<br />
district of Amman, and offers a comfortable,<br />
practical and inexpensive place to stay. The 66<br />
rooms are subtly decorated yet have all the<br />
amenities you would need during a short stay in<br />
the capital. What makes the hotel a strong option<br />
for those who visit is its excellent Vinaigrette<br />
restaurant on the top floor, serving Amman’s<br />
best sushi, and the Trattoria, which offers a<br />
generous breakfast.
Ajloun Castle<br />
Chariot driver taking part in re-enactment, Jerash<br />
Oval Plaza, Jerash<br />
KEMPINSKI AMMAN, AMMAN<br />
One of the newest hotels in Amman, the<br />
Kempinski has a very striking, modern design,<br />
with a curved sandstone and glass exterior. The<br />
rooms are furnished in a contemporary European<br />
style, with bathrooms finished in marble. The<br />
array of facilities available at the Kempinski is<br />
superb. There are four different restaurants,<br />
plus an entertainment centre, as well as a spa<br />
and gym.<br />
Mosaic, Jerash<br />
Jerash and the north<br />
Jerash was a member of the Decapolis, a Graeco-<br />
Roman confederation of the ten leading cities in<br />
an area now straddling Jordan and Syria. Today it<br />
is one of the best-preserved classical cities in the<br />
region. A colonnaded oval plaza is the highlight of<br />
the site, but there are also a theatre and Roman<br />
streets to be seen. There are daily chariot race<br />
re-enactments, which can be great fun for families.<br />
In the very north of Jordan you will find the site<br />
of Umm Qais, another of the Decapolis cities.<br />
Although smaller than Jerash, it has a very<br />
atmospheric setting looking over the Sea of<br />
Galilee and the Jordan Valley. The north of Jordan<br />
as a whole is very pretty, and with significant<br />
rainfall in the winter and spring, the countryside<br />
blooms with lush grassland and spring flowers.<br />
Ajloun Castle<br />
Ajloun Castle has a commanding position<br />
overlooking the nearby town. The castle is<br />
remarkably well preserved and demonstrates<br />
Islamic military architecture at its best. Built during<br />
the 12th and 13th centuries, it was an important<br />
staging post on the road between Damascus and<br />
Cairo. The castle once had seven towers and a<br />
15 metre deep moat, and is a maze of interlinking<br />
rooms and tunnels that are interesting to explore.<br />
There are also fabulous views from here over the<br />
surrounding countryside.<br />
Columns, Jerash<br />
Qasr Azraq<br />
The Desert Castles<br />
Heading east from Amman into the desert,<br />
you come to a series of fortified buildings, most<br />
of which were actually Umayyad hunting lodges.<br />
These buildings date to the 7th and 8th centuries<br />
AD, but some of the foundations have Roman<br />
origins. The ‘castles’ can easily be visited from<br />
Amman during an afternoon, or you could take<br />
the whole day and spend some time in Jordan’s<br />
nature reserves. The two most popular castles<br />
are Qasr Al-Amra and Qasr Azraq. Amra is an<br />
Umayyad bathhouse, once part of a much larger<br />
complex, and has beautiful frescoes which,<br />
unusually for an Islamic building, show the human<br />
form. Azraq, originally a fort on the old Roman<br />
border, was later used by the Byzantines and<br />
then by a succession of Islamic dynasties, and<br />
finally by Lawrence of Arabia, who made this<br />
his headquarters.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/jordan ● 01993 838 415 ● Jordan 33
The Kings’ Highway<br />
For centuries the Kings’ Highway was the<br />
principal route for traders travelling between<br />
Arabia and the Levant. It hugs the edge of the<br />
Great Rift Valley, with the Dead Sea filling the<br />
bottom of this huge split in the earth. The<br />
highway crosses countless river beds and the<br />
availability of water made this a key trade route.<br />
These days, most heavy traffic takes the Desert<br />
Highway, leaving the winding switchbacks,<br />
dramatic vistas, castles and churches to the<br />
intrepid visitor. Some of the sights of the Kings’<br />
Highway can be visited on a drive between<br />
Amman and Petra but a return journey on the<br />
same route may be necessary to visit them all.<br />
Kings’ Highway at Wadi Mujib<br />
Mount Nebo<br />
Said to be the spot from which Moses viewed<br />
the Holy Land and where tradition has it he<br />
was later buried, Mount Nebo is an important<br />
place for Christian pilgrimage. A church has<br />
existed on this site since 393 AD and although<br />
it has been much altered and restored since<br />
then, it still houses some mosaics which are<br />
around 1,500 years old. Mount Nebo is the<br />
perfect place to stop on the Kings’ Highway for<br />
a view over the Holy Land. On clear days, the<br />
towns of Jericho and Jerusalem can be made<br />
out in the distance, across the Jordan Valley<br />
and the Dead Sea.<br />
Holy Land mosaic, Madaba<br />
Mount Nebo<br />
Madaba<br />
Madaba, a town at the northern end of the<br />
Kings’ Highway, has a strong Christian heritage,<br />
with numerous churches dotted around its<br />
quiet, charming streets. The town is best known<br />
for the fine examples of Byzantine-era mosaics,<br />
the most famous of which is a map from the<br />
6th century depicting the Holy Land. It is easily<br />
explored on a walking tour, taking in all the<br />
churches and the archaeological park, which is<br />
an open-air museum.<br />
Mukawir<br />
A short drive off the Kings’ Highway, on a lonely<br />
pinnacle overlooking the Dead Sea, is the castle<br />
of Mukawir. It was the site of Herod’s Palace,<br />
where Salome asked for the head of John the<br />
Baptist as a reward for her dancing, and also a<br />
centre of resistance to Rome during the First<br />
Jewish Revolt. After the steep climb up to the<br />
castle you are rewarded with fantastic views<br />
over the surrounding hills. The outline of the<br />
camps and even the siege ramp built by the<br />
Romans to capture Mukawir can still be seen.<br />
34
Jordanian man by the Kings’ Highway<br />
Kerak Castle<br />
As you approach Kerack Castle, which towers<br />
over the modern town, it is immediately<br />
obvious why all the powers involved in the<br />
Crusades wanted control of this bastion. Kerak<br />
was established in the 12th century and<br />
remained in Crusader hands for just forty years.<br />
Its already excellent defensive features were<br />
further refined by the Mamluks, with the<br />
addition of a lower courtyard and a deeper<br />
moat. The castle is certainly a highlight of a trip<br />
along the Kings’ Highway with a number of<br />
interior halls and chambers to explore.<br />
Shobak Castle<br />
Shawbak Castle<br />
With fewer visitors than Kerak and still in need<br />
of restoration, Shawbak is in some ways a<br />
more rewarding stop on the Kings’ Highway. It<br />
is more of an adventure to explore, wandering<br />
around ornately decorated towers, past<br />
crumbling churches and underneath vaulted<br />
passageways. The truly intrepid, equipped with<br />
a torch, might care to descend the 350 steps<br />
under the castle to the well that allowed the<br />
Crusaders to hold out for two years before it<br />
fell to Saladin in 1189 AD.<br />
Kerak Castle<br />
Lot’s Cave<br />
Another site of biblical renown, Lot’s Cave is<br />
where the prophet reputedly sheltered following<br />
the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah.<br />
Found at the southern end of the Dead Sea,<br />
the artefacts recovered from the site are linked<br />
to various different periods of history and the<br />
site itself is worth a visit for its dramatic location.<br />
Accessed by 300 steps, the cave is protected<br />
by the remains of a church, which houses five<br />
restored mosaics dating to the 6th century AD.<br />
It was originally designed so that Jewish and<br />
Muslim pilgrims could also enter the cave<br />
without needing to pass through the church<br />
threshold. The views over the town, the<br />
surrounding countryside and to the Dead Sea<br />
are breathtaking from here.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/jordan ● 01993 838 415 ● Jordan 35
The Treasury at night, Petra<br />
Petra<br />
No matter how many times you have seen<br />
Petra on television or in films, nothing prepares<br />
you for the first time you exit the tiny cleft of<br />
the Siq, the narrow canyon leading into the city,<br />
to be confronted by the enormous splendour<br />
of the Treasury Tomb. Built by the Nabateans,<br />
who grew rich through their control of the<br />
frankincense trade routes through Arabia,<br />
Petra fell into obscurity about 1,000 years ago,<br />
with its existence and location kept a closelyguarded<br />
secret by the local Bedouin. In 1812,<br />
Johann Ludwig Burckhardt tricked his way into<br />
the site, paving the way for generations of<br />
awestruck visitors.<br />
The Monastery, Petra<br />
36<br />
Visiting the site<br />
Petra merits two full days (and a three night<br />
stay), to give you enough time to see the<br />
central areas of the site and also explore<br />
some of the more remote areas such as the<br />
Monastery, the High Place of Sacrifice and<br />
Aaron’s Tomb. If you are short on time, you<br />
could stay just two nights in Petra, with one<br />
full and long day to be spent in the site,<br />
although it is possible that you will be so<br />
entranced that you will want to return for a<br />
second visit in the future. Petra Archaeological<br />
Park is spread over 264 square kilometres, so<br />
there is a fair amount of walking to be done<br />
and you will need to pack sturdy walking<br />
shoes and take plenty of water with you.<br />
There is no particularly quiet time of year or<br />
day to visit Petra. The site attracts thousands<br />
of visitors each year and is busy even in the<br />
summer months, which are extremely hot in<br />
Jordan. By starting early in the day, or taking<br />
an alternative route into the site, we can help<br />
you avoid the largest of the crowds.<br />
The Treasury and the Monastery<br />
The Treasury and the Monastery are two<br />
of Petra’s most iconic structures. The Treasury<br />
is the first monument that you encounter<br />
having passed along the Siq, a winding,<br />
The High Place of Sacrifice, Petra<br />
narrow gorge which forms the gateway to<br />
the site. What is remarkable about the<br />
Treasury is that it was created in situ, its<br />
towering structure hewn from the sandstone<br />
rock, and therefore required no support or<br />
foundations. The carvings on the Treasury’s<br />
façade show Nabatean, Greek and Egyptian<br />
gods, as well as lions and eagles. The building<br />
is thought to date to the 1st century BC.<br />
The Monastery lies at the other end of the<br />
site. Although less ornate than the Treasury,<br />
its location in a relatively quiet part of Petra<br />
and the spectacular views make the long<br />
walk up here well worth the effort. You can<br />
actually walk right up above the Monastery<br />
for an even closer look at the urn carving<br />
which marks the top of the structure, but<br />
this is only advised for those who have a<br />
head for heights.
Learning to cook Jordanian style, Petra kitchen<br />
<strong>Travel</strong>ling along the Siq near the Treasury, Petra<br />
PETRA MARRIOTT, PETRA<br />
Located a few kilometres away from Petra, the<br />
Marriott occupies an enviable spot overlooking<br />
the vast canyons that carve through the local<br />
sandstone. The rooms are modern and<br />
comfortable and the hotel features three<br />
restaurants offering different cuisines. The biggest<br />
draw of the hotel is the amazing view out<br />
towards Petra, which is very hard to beat.<br />
BEIT ZAMAN, PETRA<br />
Situated two kilometres from Petra in the<br />
neighbouring village of Wadi Musa, Beit Zaman<br />
offers good value. It is a carefully restored 19thcentury<br />
village designed to afford guests a high<br />
level of comfort after a busy day’s sightseeing.<br />
The very nature of the hotel's history means that<br />
it abounds with character. Each of the 129 rooms<br />
and suites possess much of the original stonework,<br />
while modern touches give them a comfortable<br />
finish. The open areas are extremely pleasant, the<br />
highlight of which is a covered swimming pool.<br />
Petra Marriott Hotel, Petra<br />
MÖVENPICK RESORT, PETRA<br />
Located about one minute’s walk from the<br />
entrance to Petra, the Mövenpick is built in the<br />
Islamic style, featuring arches, intricate tile-work<br />
and delicate wooden mashrabiya screens. The<br />
rooms are more modern and European in style,<br />
but are quite large and offer great comfort. A<br />
wonderful roof garden provides the perfect place<br />
to watch the sun set over the sandstone hills.<br />
Little Petra<br />
Little Petra<br />
Siq al-Barid, or Little Petra as it has become<br />
known, is on the edge of the main site. Although<br />
the Nabatean buildings, which have been carved<br />
into the rock, are a little smaller and less<br />
impressive than those in Petra proper, the site<br />
has a certain charm for its peacefulness, as not so<br />
many visitors venture here. The site is also more<br />
concentrated with very few gaps in between the<br />
various monuments, dwellings, meeting rooms<br />
and tombs. Little Petra also offers an alternative<br />
way into the main site if you want a more active,<br />
adventurous route.<br />
Petra Kitchen<br />
Petra Kitchen is a fun and interesting way to<br />
spend one of your evenings in Petra, giving you<br />
the opportunity to learn to cook Jordanian dishes<br />
and more importantly perhaps, to meet local<br />
people. Over the course of a couple of hours you<br />
will be taught by local cooks and will prepare a<br />
traditional meal, which is of course yours to eat<br />
later in the evening. You’ll also be given a booklet<br />
of Jordanian recipes so you can recreate your<br />
favourite dishes at home.<br />
Beit Zaman, Petra<br />
Mövenpick Resort, Petra<br />
www.audleytravel.com/jordan ● 01993 838 415 ● Jordan 37
Wadi Rum<br />
Wadi Rum<br />
Traders crossed this remarkable ancient landscape<br />
long before modern visitors such as Lawrence of<br />
Arabia. Wadi Rum is one of the region’s most<br />
picturesque desert landscapes, unique for its red<br />
sandstone geology. Rocky outcrops tower over<br />
the surrounding desert, and more unusual<br />
geological features are not hard to find, including<br />
several rock bridges, weathered into their form<br />
over the centuries. In the canyons, which provide<br />
some respite from the powerful sun, you will find<br />
inscriptions and carvings by the Thamudic people,<br />
who came to Wadi Rum from Arabia in the first<br />
millennium BC. Staying a night in Wadi Rum is a<br />
special experience. Isolated from the lights and<br />
noise of civilisation, it is the perfect place to<br />
unwind and take in the star-filled desert skies.<br />
WADI RUM CAMP, WADI RUM<br />
This small camps offers a more intimate<br />
alternative to the larger camps in the area. The<br />
tents are pitched and taken down as required,<br />
with a maximum of six tents on any one night.<br />
There are fixed, shared bathroom facilities, with<br />
solar panels providing the power for hot water<br />
showers. In the evenings a spread of traditional<br />
Bedouin dishes are prepared for you.<br />
The Bedouin &<br />
Lawrence of Arabia<br />
The Bedouin are an Arab people, traditionally<br />
nomadic or semi-nomadic communities who<br />
live in the deserts of the Middle East. Though<br />
most Bedouin have now abandoned their<br />
nomadic lifestyles, there are still some tribes<br />
which cling to their traditions in the region,<br />
and live in black goat-hair tents in places like<br />
Wadi Rum. Tribes continue to play an<br />
important role in society, and in Wadi Rum<br />
the major tribe is the Huweitat, who claim<br />
descent from the Prophet Mohammed.<br />
There are also a couple of other smaller<br />
clans, who came originally from the Arabian<br />
Peninsula. The links between Wadi Rum<br />
and Lawrence of Arabia are somewhat<br />
exaggerated these days for the purposes of<br />
tourism, but the tribes of this area did play<br />
an important role in the Arab Revolt against<br />
the Ottoman Empire of 1917, a role which<br />
continues to be a source of great pride for<br />
today’s Bedouin. There are sites within Wadi<br />
Rum which Lawrence definitely did visit and<br />
for more information about his experiences<br />
in the area we would recommend reading<br />
his autobiographical account, Seven Pillars<br />
of Wisdom.<br />
Camp, Wadi Rum<br />
Wadi Rum<br />
38
Jordan’s nature reserves<br />
Wadi Dana<br />
The Royal Society for the Conservation of<br />
Nature (RSCN) was founded in 1966,<br />
with its main aim being to protect Jordan’s<br />
natural heritage. The organisation now has a<br />
wide-ranging remit and focuses not only on<br />
the preservation of the country’s nature and<br />
landscapes, but also on the socio-economic<br />
development of rural communities.<br />
The RSCN has established six nature reserves,<br />
at Dana, Mujib, Ajloun, Dibeen, Shaumari and<br />
Azraq, all with different landscapes, wildlife<br />
and geology – four of them are described in<br />
detail here. It is possible to stay at the reserves<br />
and enjoy activities such as walking and<br />
birdwatching. To put their work into context,<br />
the RSCN has also created two visitor centres,<br />
one near the Dead Sea (the Dead Sea<br />
Panoramic Complex) and one in Amman<br />
(the Wild Jordan Centre).<br />
The nature reserves<br />
Shaumari Wildlife Reserve<br />
This reserve was created to provide a<br />
protected area for the Arabian oryx, a white<br />
antelope, which is one of the most<br />
endangered animals in the world. It became<br />
extinct in the wild in the early 1970s but<br />
thanks to the breeding programme at<br />
Shaumari and other reserves in the Arab<br />
World, the global population is now estimated<br />
at about 7,000. Visitors to the reserve may<br />
also spot other desert animals such as gazelles,<br />
ostrich and Persian onagers.<br />
Ajloun Forest Reserve<br />
In existence since 1988, Ajloun Forest<br />
Reserve is located in northwest Jordan and<br />
has 13 square kilometres of open woodland.<br />
Common trees in the forest include<br />
evergreen oak, pine, carob, wild strawberry<br />
and wild pistachio, an impressive biodiversity<br />
which the reserve aims to preserve. In spring,<br />
the forest floor is carpeted with flowers,<br />
including rare and beautiful orchids, anemones<br />
and rock roses.<br />
Azraq Wetland Reserve<br />
The Azraq Wetlands are located to the east<br />
of Amman. Threatened by the delicate state<br />
of the water supply in the region, the wetlands<br />
have reduced in size since the establishment of<br />
the reserve in 1978, with the water now being<br />
supplied artificially. The reserve is a good spot<br />
for birdwatching, especially for migratory<br />
species, which have returned in recent years<br />
and include the hoopoe lark, Cetti’s warbler,<br />
the desert finch and the marsh harrier.<br />
Arabian oryx<br />
Dana Nature Reserve<br />
Dana Nature Reserve covers a system of<br />
wadis running down to Wadi Araba just north<br />
of Petra, and is home to wildlife, awe-inspiring<br />
landscapes, and thousands of years of history.<br />
Best explored on foot, there are a series of<br />
trails - some guided, some self-guided - which<br />
take in a variety of sights from canyon scenery<br />
to local villages and ancient copper mines.<br />
DANA GUESTHOUSE,<br />
DANA NATURE RESERVE<br />
Dana Guesthouse is one of two<br />
accommodation options within Dana Nature<br />
Reserve. With just nine rooms, this is simple<br />
accommodation, but the surroundings more<br />
than make up for this. The guesthouse looks<br />
over Wadi Dana, with spectacular views at<br />
sunset while the whole setting, in the midst of<br />
the Jordanian countryside, is extremely tranquil.<br />
FEYNAN ECOLODGE, DANA<br />
NATURE RESERVE<br />
Feynan Ecolodge, at the opposite end of the<br />
reserve, is a unique place to stay in Jordan, built<br />
in harmony with its surroundings and respecting<br />
the environment in general. Wonderfully<br />
remote and set amidst stark, rocky desert, the<br />
lodge has comfortable, spacious rooms and is<br />
cleverly designed to avoid impacting the<br />
ecology of the area. All materials used are<br />
locally sourced and power is generated by solar<br />
energy. In the evenings, the lodge is lit by<br />
candles and has a special atmosphere.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/jordan ● 01993 838 415 ● Jordan 39
Japanese Garden Beach, Tala Bay, Aqaba<br />
MÖVENPICK TALA BAY, AQABA<br />
Around 15 minutes by car from the centre of<br />
Aqaba, the Mövenpick Tala Bay offers good value<br />
and benefits from a great location on the beach.<br />
The hotel is less busy than those in the centre of<br />
the town, and offers better value. The rooms and<br />
public areas feel bright, modern and airy. With a<br />
number of pools, a decent beach and a wide<br />
range of restaurants and cafés to choose from,<br />
the Mövenpick is perfect for those wishing to<br />
relax after sightseeing or to explore Jordan’s<br />
Red Sea reefs.<br />
Herbs and spices for sale in Aqaba<br />
Mövenpick Tala Bay, Aqaba<br />
Aqaba and the Red Sea<br />
Aqaba’s principal draws are the snorkelling and<br />
diving on the Red Sea reefs and the warm<br />
temperatures during the autumn, winter and<br />
spring, compared to the rest of the country.<br />
As Jordan’s only port and the only resort area<br />
on the coast, it is very popular and can be very<br />
busy throughout the year. The hotels often host<br />
weddings, which give an insight into local<br />
traditions but can also be quite noisy affairs. If you<br />
wish to dive then this is the place to come, with<br />
the Tala Bay resort area offering a slightly quieter<br />
option to the central hotels.<br />
40<br />
Common lionfish, the Red Sea<br />
Kempinski Hotel, Aqaba<br />
KEMPINSKI AQABA<br />
Close to the centre of Aqaba, the Kempinski also<br />
has an attractive location on the beach. All rooms<br />
face the sea and have an elegant minimalist style.<br />
The Kempinski has a pool, access to a beach and<br />
a range of dining options, including a good<br />
seafood restaurant. It is an excellent choice for<br />
those wanting to relax by the sea after a busy<br />
trip in Jordan, but still be within reach of the<br />
town of Aqaba.
Greek Orthodox Church, Bethany Beyond the Jordan<br />
The Dead Sea<br />
Dead Sea salt Mövenpick Resort & Spa, The Dead Sea Evason Ma’in Hot Springs<br />
The Dead Sea<br />
For millennia, people have been coming to the<br />
Dead Sea, drawn by the medicinal qualities of<br />
the mineral-laden waters. The sea is also eerily<br />
beautiful, with crystalline formations on the<br />
shoreline surrounded by harsh, unforgiving cliffs.<br />
The lowest point on earth at 420 metres below<br />
sea level, temperatures and the humidity are<br />
always higher at the Dead Sea than elsewhere<br />
in Jordan. Swimming, or rather floating in the<br />
Dead Sea is a novel experience, with its sense<br />
of weightlessness. Up in the hills above the<br />
coast you will find the Dead Sea Panorama<br />
Complex, a museum administered by the RSCN,<br />
which has excellent information on the history<br />
and ecology of the Dead Sea, as well as the<br />
impact of human activity here. Nearby there are<br />
also lots of natural springs, such as Ma’in, offering<br />
further opportunities for relaxation and<br />
alternative therapies.<br />
THE MÖVENPICK RESORT & SPA,<br />
THE DEAD SEA<br />
Located on the shores of the Dead Sea, the<br />
resort is styled as a Middle-Eastern village, running<br />
down a green valley to a swimming pool and<br />
therapy centre. The 346 rooms are luxuriously<br />
furnished, and many look out over the small<br />
stream that runs through the resort. A sandy<br />
beach forms one side of the large, infinity<br />
swimming pool, and the view stretches<br />
uninterrupted across the glassy surface of the<br />
Dead Sea. The spa offers massages, mud wraps<br />
and a host of other relaxing treatments.<br />
KEMPINSKI ISHTAR DEAD SEA<br />
The latest addition to the hotels of the Dead Sea,<br />
the Kempinski Ishtar brings breathtaking design<br />
and modern luxury. Rooms are spacious,<br />
especially those located in the Ishtar villas, and<br />
are replete with facilities. The array of carefullydesigned<br />
pools are a delight as you can always<br />
find a deserted spot. The beach has been built<br />
up with fine sand from the Red Sea and the spa<br />
is one of the largest to be found in the region.<br />
There are also a number of top quality<br />
restaurants offering a range of different cuisines.<br />
EVASON MA’IN HOT SPRINGS,<br />
NEAR THE DEAD SEA<br />
The Evason Ma’in Hot Springs is located in the<br />
hills above the Dead Sea. With 96 rooms and a<br />
quiet setting, this hotel is one of the most<br />
luxurious places to stay in Jordan. The respected<br />
Evason standards of service make any stay here<br />
extremely relaxing, especially for guests who<br />
make their way down to the Six Senses spa. The<br />
grounds of the hotel have been landscaped with<br />
several pools and garden areas. The staff here are<br />
very friendly and this is a good alternative to the<br />
larger Dead Sea hotels.<br />
Bethany Beyond the Jordan<br />
Now a place of pilgrimage for many Christians<br />
visiting Jordan, Bethany is the site of significant<br />
archaeological remains, which were only properly<br />
excavated in the 1990s. The findings, including a<br />
series of churches, caves, wells and water<br />
channels, along with baptism pools, led historians<br />
to declare the area the site of Jesus’ baptism and<br />
St John the Baptist’s mission. Bethany is one of<br />
the lowest points on earth, with an incredible<br />
biodiversity, offering the opportunity to see a<br />
historical site in a fascinating natural setting.<br />
Kempinski Ishtar Dead Sea<br />
www.audleytravel.com/jordan ● 01993 838 415 ● Jordan 41
Jerusalem<br />
The Western Wall and Dome of the Rock, Jersusalem<br />
Jerusalem is somewhere that many people<br />
feel they know, despite not having been there.<br />
The names, places and stories associated with<br />
the city and the surrounding area are instantly<br />
familiar; the Mount of Olives, the Last Supper,<br />
the Temple Mount, Bethlehem, the Wailing<br />
Wall and the Dome of the Rock. A walk<br />
through the Old City of Jerusalem is to take a<br />
journey through the history of civilisations and<br />
empires, with ancient Jewish remains, Roman<br />
streets, Crusader castles and Mamluk mosques<br />
all enclosed within Ottoman-era city walls.<br />
The Old City is divided into quarters, with each<br />
quarter having its own distinctive character,<br />
depending on the religion and ethnicity of its<br />
inhabitants. Jerusalem is not just a living museum<br />
though – it’s very much a modern, breathing<br />
city. Beyond the city walls, the ‘new’ city of<br />
Jerusalem has a good selection of restaurants<br />
and bars on pleasant pedestrianised streets.<br />
There are also excellent museums such as the<br />
Israel Museum (repository of the Dead Sea<br />
Scrolls), as well as the harrowing but touching<br />
Yad Vashem Holocaust History Museum.<br />
Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem<br />
Church of the Holy Sepulchre<br />
Combining Jordan and Jerusalem<br />
Ending a trip to Jordan with a visit to Jerusalem<br />
is very easy. You can simply cross the border to<br />
the north of the Dead Sea via the Allenby<br />
Bridge (also known as the King Hussein Bridge),<br />
obtaining visas on the day of travel. Jerusalem is<br />
about an hour’s drive from the border. Most<br />
visitors spend about three nights in Jerusalem to<br />
see all the sites in and around the city, although<br />
there is enough to do in the area to merit a<br />
longer stay. You may also like to include a trip<br />
to Bethlehem, which is eight kilometres south<br />
of Jerusalem.<br />
42
Jewish quarter, Jerusalem<br />
The Western Wall, Jerusalem<br />
Orthodox Jewish man, Western Wall<br />
ACCOMMODATION IN JERUSALEM<br />
Our specialists have researched and inspected a<br />
wide range of hotels in Jerusalem and would be<br />
happy to advise you on the best choice for your<br />
trip and your budget. Our favourites are the<br />
Mount Zion Hotel, which is characterful and has<br />
good views over Jerusalem; the Harmony Hotel,<br />
located outside the city walls, but within the<br />
older part of the ‘new’ city and the King David<br />
Jerusalem Hotel, well known for its character<br />
and history of hosting the great and the good.<br />
King David Jerusalem Hotel<br />
Jerusalem’s Old City<br />
The Old City is divided into different areas;<br />
the Christian, Muslim, Armenian and Jewish<br />
quarters, though the divisions between these<br />
areas are not always particularly obvious. The<br />
Old City is crammed with historic buildings<br />
which are highly significant to the three<br />
Abrahamic faiths. On a full day tour of Jerusalem<br />
you would expect to see some of the following<br />
sites, amongst many others.<br />
Temple Mount<br />
Thought to be the centre of the world in Jewish<br />
tradition, Temple Mount is the location of the<br />
First Temple, built by Solomon and where the<br />
Dome of the Rock is found, the site of God’s<br />
test of Abraham’s faith.<br />
Western Wall<br />
Surrounding Temple Mount on the western<br />
side, the wall is perhaps better known as the<br />
Wailing Wall and is the remnant of the ancient<br />
wall that at one time surrounded the Jewish<br />
temple’s courtyard, built by Herod the Great in<br />
the first century BC. Jews continue to make<br />
pilgrimages here to lament their losses and to<br />
pray, with Friday sunset being the busiest time.<br />
Al-Aqsa Mosque<br />
Also situated on Temple Mount, Al-Aqsa<br />
Mosque is one of the most important buildings<br />
of Islam, marking the spot from which<br />
Mohammed made his ascent to heaven during<br />
his night-time journey from Mecca to Jerusalem.<br />
Church of the Holy Sepulchre<br />
One of Christianity’s most important sites, the<br />
Church of the Holy Sepulchre was built on the<br />
spot where Jesus was nailed to the cross, died<br />
and was resurrected.<br />
Church of the Holy Sepulchre<br />
Jerusalem 43
Jerash<br />
Amman<br />
The Dead Sea<br />
ISRAEL<br />
Kerak Castle<br />
JORDAN<br />
Petra<br />
Wadi Rum<br />
SAUDI ARABIA<br />
Rock Arch in Wadi Rum<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Jordan specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 415<br />
Getting around<br />
Jordan has an excellent road network and the<br />
length of the country can be covered in a matter<br />
of hours. Most of your travelling will be on these<br />
roads in private air-conditioned vehicles. Visits to<br />
Jordan can easily be combined with travel to<br />
other countries within the region. Crossing into<br />
Syria is done by travelling north from Amman to<br />
Damascus, visiting the archaeological ruins of<br />
Jerash or Bosra on your way. Alternatively, you<br />
could venture across the Allenby Bridge to see<br />
the world’s most important religious city,<br />
Jerusalem, or fly to Cairo for a trip around Egypt<br />
and its wonderful ancient monuments.<br />
Azraq wetlands<br />
44<br />
Lizard in Dana Nature Reserve<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ~<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Jordan has a typically Middle Eastern climate.<br />
Spring and autumn are the best times to travel as<br />
the days are warm, with temperatures into the<br />
high twenties Celsius with cool nights. Winters<br />
can be surprisingly cold and wet, whilst snow is<br />
not uncommon. Summers are hot with<br />
temperatures reaching to the forties Celsius on<br />
occasion. If you are not adversely affected by heat<br />
it is still worth considering a trip at this time as<br />
some of the sites will be a little quieter than at<br />
other times of the year.<br />
Time difference: GMT+2 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 5 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Jordan on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Classic Jordan<br />
Jordan’s major sites can all be comfortably visited<br />
in a one-week trip, with time at the end to<br />
unwind. Starting in the north with visits to Jerash<br />
and Amman, you then take the Kings’ Highway<br />
south through Madaba, Mount Nebo and Kerak<br />
ending in Petra. You will have two full days to<br />
explore the site before travelling, via Wadi Rum,<br />
to a Dead Sea hotel for some relaxation.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Fly from the UK to Amman.<br />
On arrival, you are met and taken<br />
to your hotel in the city.<br />
Spend the morning exploring the<br />
capital of Jordan, then head north to<br />
visit the Roman site of Jerash.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> along the Kings’ Highway to<br />
Petra, stopping to visit Madaba,<br />
Mount Nebo and Kerak Castle<br />
en route.<br />
Spend the day in Petra, accompanied<br />
by a local guide.<br />
A second day in Petra to further<br />
explore the site.<br />
Explore Wadi Rum before heading<br />
to the Dead Sea.<br />
Time to relax beside the Dead Sea.<br />
Experience the novelty of floating on<br />
the Dead Sea.<br />
Transfer to Amman’s airport for your<br />
return flight to London.<br />
Stay longer<br />
If you wish to extend your trip you could consider<br />
including a night in Wadi Rum in your itinerary, or<br />
combine it with a trip to Egypt to make the most<br />
of your stay in the region.<br />
Wall of Tombs, Petra
Suggested itineraries<br />
Ajloun Castle<br />
The Dead Sea<br />
Umm Qais<br />
Jerash<br />
Amman<br />
SYRIA<br />
Tel Aviv<br />
Jerusalem<br />
Bethlehem<br />
The Dead Sea<br />
Jerash<br />
Amman<br />
Aleppo<br />
SYRIA<br />
Palmyra<br />
Kerak Castle<br />
ISRAEL<br />
Kerak Castle<br />
Damascus<br />
Dana Nature<br />
Reserve<br />
Petra<br />
JORDAN<br />
Petra<br />
JORDAN<br />
The Dead Sea<br />
Amman<br />
JORDAN<br />
Aqaba<br />
Wadi Rum<br />
SAUDI ARABIA<br />
Wadi Rum<br />
SAUDI ARABIA<br />
Petra<br />
Jordan Discovered<br />
Being such a compact country, a two week trip<br />
enables you to see almost everything Jordan has<br />
to offer. The must-see sights of Petra, Jerash and<br />
Wadi Rum combine with an exploration of the<br />
Kings’ Highway, visits to one of Jordan’s nature<br />
reserves and time to relax.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Fly from the UK to Amman.<br />
Transfer to your hotel.<br />
Spend the day exploring Amman<br />
and the Desert Castles.<br />
Leave Amman for a tour of northern<br />
Jordan, taking in Umm Qais, Ajloun<br />
Castle and Jerash.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> along the Kings’ Highway to<br />
Petra, stopping to visit Madaba,<br />
Mount Nebo and Kerak Castle<br />
en route.<br />
Discover Petra with a local guide.<br />
A second day to explore Petra on<br />
your own.<br />
Visit Wadi Rum before travelling to<br />
Aqaba for a couple of nights<br />
Enjoy the Red Sea.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Dana Nature Reserve,<br />
stopping to visit Shawbak Castle<br />
en route.<br />
Walk from Dana Village to Feynan<br />
Ecolodge.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> from Feynan to your Dead<br />
Sea hotel, stopping to visit Lot’s Cave<br />
on your way.<br />
Enjoy the novelty of floating on the<br />
Dead Sea.<br />
A day to continue relaxing at the<br />
Dead Sea, or explore other sites<br />
such as Mukawir or Bethany Beyond<br />
the Jordan.<br />
Transfer to Amman’s airport for your<br />
return flight to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
You could spend longer at the Red Sea or<br />
Dead Sea if you need more time to relax after<br />
your sightseeing.<br />
Jordan and Jerusalem<br />
A perfect itinerary for the history enthusiast,<br />
you start in Jordan with visits to the impressive<br />
Roman city of Jerash, the rose city of Petra, and<br />
a relaxing stay at the Dead Sea. Crossing the<br />
border into Israel, you move on to Jerusalem,<br />
spiritual centre of three of the world’s major<br />
religions, with many different layers of history and<br />
some truly iconic sites. There is also time to visit<br />
the town of Bethlehem.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Fly from the UK to Amman, where<br />
you are met on arrival and taken to<br />
your hotel in the city.<br />
Visit Amman before heading to Jerash<br />
to explore the Roman ruins.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> along the Kings’ Highway to<br />
Petra, visiting Madaba, Mount Nebo<br />
and Kerak Castle on the way.<br />
Visit Petra, accompanied by a local<br />
guide to help you get your bearings.<br />
A second day in Petra to reach some<br />
of the remote parts of the site, such<br />
as the High Place of Sacrifice.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to the Dead Sea, first<br />
visiting Wadi Rum for a jeep tour<br />
of the desert.<br />
A day to enjoy at the Dead Sea.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> across the Allenby Bridge<br />
to Jerusalem.<br />
Spend the day exploring Jerusalem’s<br />
Old City and museums.<br />
Go to Bethlehem to visit the Church<br />
of the Nativity. Return to Jerusalem<br />
for the afternoon.<br />
Transfer to Tel Aviv for your return<br />
flight to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
You could extend your stay in Jordan to include<br />
visits to some of the nature reserves, or spend an<br />
extra couple of nights in Jerusalem to explore the<br />
city some more.<br />
Syria and Jordan Combined<br />
A trip which combines the main highlights of both<br />
Syria and Jordan, this itinerary is perfect for those<br />
wanting a great perspective on the region’s varied<br />
history. In Syria there is time in Aleppo, Palmyra<br />
and Damascus, while your visit to Jordan includes<br />
Amman, the Dead Sea and magical Petra.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Day 15<br />
Day 16<br />
Day 17<br />
Fly from the UK to Damascus.<br />
Visit Damascus, taking in the<br />
Umayyad Mosque and the<br />
National Museum.<br />
Explore the sites in the south of<br />
Syria, including Bosra and Shahba.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Palmyra, stopping to visit<br />
Ma’alula and Deir Mar Musa en route.<br />
Explore the ruins of Palmyra.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Aleppo, visiting Apamea<br />
on your way.<br />
Discover Aleppo, with a view over<br />
the city from the huge Citadel.<br />
Visit sites in the surrounding<br />
countryside, including St Simeon’s,<br />
Ain Dara and the Dead City of<br />
Serjilla.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Damascus, visiting Crac<br />
des Chevaliers on the way south.<br />
Cross the border into Jordan,<br />
continuing to Amman.<br />
Visit the sites of northern Jordan,<br />
including the Roman ruins of Jerash,<br />
Umm Qais and Ajloun Castle.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Petra, visiting Madaba,<br />
Mount Nebo and Kerak Castle on<br />
your way along the Kings’ Highway.<br />
Visit Petra with a local guide who will<br />
help you explore the site.<br />
Revisit Petra and discover some of<br />
the more remote areas of the site.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to the Dead Sea, stopping to<br />
visit Lot’s Cave en route.<br />
A day to enjoy floating on the Dead<br />
Sea and relaxation at your hotel.<br />
Transfer to Amman’s airport for your<br />
return flight to the UK.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/jordan ● 01993 838 415 ● Jordan 45
Syria<br />
Culturally and historically, Syria is<br />
probably the richest country in the<br />
Middle East and is an essential destination<br />
for anyone with an interest in this<br />
fascinating region. It has been continuously<br />
inhabited since the Neolithic period and all<br />
the great Mediterranean cultures have held<br />
sway here. Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans,<br />
Arabs and Crusaders have all left traces of<br />
their influence in the extensive ruins found<br />
throughout the country. Palmyra is one of<br />
the greatest archaeological highlights of the<br />
region, fully justifying a visit to Syria in<br />
its own right. The great cities of Damascus<br />
and Aleppo trace their origins back to<br />
darkest antiquity, with Damascus claiming<br />
to be the oldest continually inhabited city<br />
in the world. Today both cities are<br />
intoxicating blends of ancient citadels,<br />
Roman streets and labyrinthine souqs,<br />
overlaid by bustling modernity. Traders<br />
peddle their wares against a backdrop that<br />
would be instantly recognisable to their<br />
ancestors from past centuries. Visitors<br />
returning from Syria always talk about the<br />
people, always ready with a smile and<br />
unwaveringly hospitable.<br />
46
<strong>Audley</strong> in Syria<br />
5<br />
1<br />
2<br />
4<br />
Our advice on how to plan your time in<br />
Syria depends on your particular interests,<br />
and whether or not you are combining<br />
your visit with another country. A trip just to<br />
see the major highlights would take about a<br />
week, whereas we would suggest the keen<br />
amateur historian spends a fortnight here.<br />
This is long enough to visit the major<br />
highlights of Damascus, Palmyra, Crac des<br />
Chevaliers and Aleppo, along with a host of<br />
other sites, perhaps including a journey along<br />
the Euphrates Valley. Good transport links<br />
with Jordan and Lebanon make it easy to<br />
combine two or all three of these countries.<br />
We recommend just over two weeks to<br />
combine Syria’s most important sites with<br />
visits to Petra in Jordan and Baalbek in<br />
Lebanon.<br />
Accommodation<br />
1 Damascus<br />
One of the oldest cities in the<br />
world, Damascus has wonderful<br />
historic and religious monuments<br />
as well as labyrinthine covered<br />
souqs to explore.<br />
3<br />
Worshipper in Aleppo Mosque<br />
4 Palmyra<br />
With a mixture of historical<br />
influences and a desert location,<br />
Palmyra is an essential stop on<br />
any trip to Syria.<br />
Syrian cuisine<br />
Syrian cuisine is a delightful<br />
mix of Armenian, Turkish,<br />
Jewish and Arab influences.<br />
Previously, the hotel industry has been<br />
dominated by state-owned chains, which<br />
operate hotels in nearly every significant<br />
destination. There have been dramatic<br />
improvements in accommodation over<br />
recent years in Damascus and Aleppo,<br />
however, and our specialists continue to<br />
unearth characterful properties with each<br />
visit. The growth in small boutique hotels<br />
has been a boon to tourism in Syria. These<br />
properties take their lead from Moroccan<br />
riads and are converted palaces and large<br />
family homes with a real local flavour. They<br />
add a splash of charm in a country where<br />
accommodation is usually practical rather<br />
than luxurious. Damascus is now also<br />
attracting the interest of international<br />
premium hotel groups such as Four Seasons<br />
and Kempinski.<br />
5<br />
Crac des Chevaliers<br />
Crac des Chevaliers is the bestknown<br />
of the Crusader castles.<br />
St Simeon’s<br />
Find out more<br />
Umayyad Mosque, Damascus<br />
2 Aleppo<br />
The old city of Aleppo matches<br />
Damascus for history and<br />
culture, with the Citadel<br />
dominating the skyline.<br />
3 Bosra<br />
Bosra’s Roman theatre has<br />
gravity-defying seats, and<br />
once accommodated 9,000<br />
spectators.<br />
Aleppo’s souqs<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Syria, please see<br />
pages 54-55.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Syria<br />
specialists 01993 838 425<br />
Syria 47
Umayyad Mosque, Damascus<br />
Damascus<br />
Though several cities claim to be the longest<br />
continuously inhabited city in the world,<br />
Damascus has a better claim than most.<br />
Archaeological remains dating to the third<br />
millennium BC have been found and King David,<br />
the Persians and Alexander the Great were some<br />
of the city’s earliest conquerors. The city walls<br />
date back to Roman times, as does the biblical<br />
Straight Street. Caliph Khalid Ibn Al-Walid, ruler<br />
of the first Islamic Empire, moved his capital to<br />
Damascus in the 8th century AD, during the<br />
Umayyad period. His Umayyad Mosque is now at<br />
the heart of the winding streets and alleys of Old<br />
Damascus, where traders display their wares<br />
against a backdrop of Corinthian columns and<br />
Mamluke stone-work. It is a scene which belongs<br />
just as much to the medieval Islamic and<br />
Ottoman eras as to the Syria of today.<br />
The townhouse hotels<br />
of Syria<br />
During the last decade or so, Syrians have<br />
seen the potential in converting period family<br />
homes and palaces in the old cities of<br />
Damascus and Aleppo into boutique hotels.<br />
The old houses lend themselves well to this<br />
purpose; there is usually a small number of<br />
rooms and the buildings retain many of their<br />
original features and character. They are<br />
often located in the city centre, ideal for<br />
exploring the narrow streets and souqs.<br />
Staying in one of these hotels offers a real<br />
insight into traditional architecture in a<br />
Middle Eastern city, with their rooms set<br />
Old family home, Damascus<br />
Courtyard, Beit Al-Mamlouka<br />
around central courtyards, and with separate<br />
quarters for men and women, demonstrating<br />
not only the wealth of the original<br />
inhabitants, but also how similarly Muslim,<br />
Christian and Jewish families lived in these<br />
cities in the past. In general, the houses have<br />
been converted with care and attention.<br />
Indeed, one architect made the conversion of<br />
her house (Beit al-Mamlouka, in Damascus)<br />
the subject of her doctoral thesis. Arches,<br />
striped stone-work, tiled floors and intricate<br />
stone and woodwork abound in these<br />
houses, making them a delight for architects,<br />
historians, photographers and artists alike.<br />
Colourful spices, Damascus<br />
48
Selling walnuts in the spice souq, Damascus<br />
Hotel Talisman, Damascus<br />
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL,<br />
DAMASCUS<br />
The Four Seasons Hotel in Damascus offers<br />
excellent service and attention to detail,<br />
conveniently located near the National Museum.<br />
Inside, the rooms are superb, and the hotel’s<br />
height means that it towers over the city with<br />
some commanding views from the highest levels.<br />
The hotel has all the facilities needed for a short<br />
stay in Damascus, including a swimming pool to<br />
relax in after a day’s sightseeing.<br />
HOTEL TALISMAN, DAMASCUS<br />
The Hotel Talisman has a fantastic location in<br />
central Damascus, a hundred metres from the<br />
Roman Arch on Straight Street leading to the<br />
eastern gate (Bab Ash-Sharqi). Originally built as<br />
a palace by one of the city’s old Jewish families,<br />
it is centred round a large open courtyard and<br />
pool. Traditional arched doors and windows,<br />
framed by the alternating marble bands typical of<br />
Syrian architecture, lead into the cool interior,<br />
where you find a lounge and the rooms and<br />
suites. Inlaid wooden furniture, beautiful carpets,<br />
ornate metal light fittings and attractively tiled<br />
bathrooms perfectly capture the opulence of<br />
historic Damascus.<br />
BEIT AL-MAMLOUKA, DAMASCUS<br />
A boutique hotel that radiates Damascene style,<br />
Beit Al-Mamlouka has an enviable location and<br />
was the first of the townhouses to be converted<br />
into a hotel. The terrace is one of the few points<br />
within the old city where you can gaze over the<br />
rooftops and soak up the atmosphere. The eight<br />
rooms are all different and each has its own<br />
charm. Around the hotel there are shady<br />
courtyards, blossoming plants and a quiet<br />
restaurant where a hearty breakfast is provided<br />
and a small bar operates as dusk falls.<br />
AL PASHA, DAMASCUS<br />
Al Pasha is a townhouse hotel, located just off<br />
Straight Street in the old city of Damascus.<br />
The hotel has been formed by joining together<br />
three 18th century houses. It has five suites and<br />
11 rooms spread over two floors, with antique<br />
furniture and old tiles retained throughout.<br />
The high ceilings and white walls create a sense<br />
of space in each room, which also have all the<br />
necessary amenities for your stay. Al Pasha has<br />
more facilities than some of the other<br />
townhouse hotels, with a small gym and the<br />
Al Haneh Bar, where you can relax and enjoy<br />
a drink after sightseeing.<br />
Beit Al-Mamlouka, Damascus<br />
Al Pasha, Damascus<br />
www.audleytravel.com/syria ● 01993 838 425 ● Syria 49
Bosra’s Theatre<br />
Bosra<br />
South of Damascus, near the border with Jordan,<br />
Bosra is a fascinating archaeological site. It is most<br />
famous for its fabulously preserved Roman<br />
theatre, complete with banked seating, which<br />
once held 9,000 spectators. The theatre is<br />
enclosed within an Arab fortress, explaining its<br />
state of preservation, and like the rest of the<br />
town, it is built of black basalt. As with many<br />
sites in Syria, Bosra shows evidence of the<br />
succession of empires which held sway in the<br />
area, so Roman bath complexes and Corinthian<br />
columns jostle for position with the Mosque of<br />
Omar, which dates to the 7th or 8th century AD<br />
and is thought to be one of the earliest mosques<br />
in the world.<br />
Ma‘alula<br />
50<br />
A church in Ma‘alula<br />
Ma‘alula<br />
Ma‘alula is Syria’s most picturesque village, the<br />
painted houses contrast with the pine trees that<br />
grow on the hillsides. The village is set in the<br />
foothills of the mountains that form a natural<br />
border with Lebanon. Stacked houses, which<br />
combine modern and traditional styles, are pinned<br />
to the rock wall and are interspersed with<br />
churches with blue crosses on the tops of their<br />
spires. It is these churches that form a key part of<br />
Ma‘alula’s appeal, with some of them dating back<br />
to the earliest days of Christianity. The services<br />
here, and indeed many of the conversations in<br />
the village, still take place in Aramaic, the ancient<br />
language spoken by Jesus. Ma‘alula is also the<br />
location of the miracle of St Thecla’s escape from<br />
would-be captors, making it an important stop<br />
for many Christian pilgrims.<br />
Deir Mar Musa<br />
The early Christian church found expression in<br />
remote retreats in inhospitable places. Deir Mar<br />
Musa is one of the few surviving desert<br />
monasteries, located at the top of a cliff and<br />
accessible only on foot. After a period of<br />
abandonment it is in use again, thanks to the<br />
efforts of an Italian Jesuit priest, who rediscovered<br />
the monastery in the 1980s. Today, Syrian monks<br />
and nuns live here, from both Catholic and<br />
Orthodox churches, with the odd traveller also<br />
staying. The walk to the monastery is hard, uphill<br />
work, but once you arrive, the views are<br />
breathtaking. Within the old church of the<br />
monastery you will find superb frescoes dating to<br />
the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries. One such<br />
fresco depicts St Simeon on his pillar, the remains<br />
of which can be seen in the north of Syria.<br />
Deir Mar Musa
Palmyra at sunset<br />
Detail from a column, Palmyra<br />
Palmyra<br />
Palmyra is a desert oasis northeast of Damascus,<br />
which prospered in ancient times thanks to trade<br />
links between the Mediterranean and the<br />
Euphrates Valley. Gradually Romanised over the<br />
course of the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, the city<br />
reasserted its independence in the late 3rd<br />
century under the legendary Queen Zenobia.<br />
What is left today is so extensive and wonderfully<br />
well preserved that it gives a remarkable idea of<br />
what Palmyra was like in its heyday: long<br />
colonnaded streets, vast temples girded by<br />
expertly worked columns and unusual tower<br />
tombs. The highlights of a visit would include the<br />
huge Temple of Bel and the wonderful views<br />
over the whole city from the Arab Castle.<br />
Palmyra is one of the largest, most complete<br />
archaeological sites in the Middle East, with a<br />
unique blend of Classical and regional influences<br />
that makes it a must-see.<br />
TADAMORA PALACE, PALMYRA<br />
The Tadamora Palace is a new hotel located<br />
close to the ancient site of Palmyra. Like all<br />
hotels in the town, the Tadamora lacks a little<br />
character, but its location makes it possible to<br />
walk to the ruins and the facilities include two<br />
restaurants, a bar and an outdoor pool. The<br />
rooms are large compared to most hotels in<br />
Palmyra and all are fresh and modern. This is a<br />
good, practical base from which to explore<br />
the area.<br />
Halabiyya, the Euphrates Valley<br />
The Euphrates Valley<br />
The Euphrates Valley is one of the least visited<br />
areas of Syria, but it has a wealth of archaeological<br />
ruins which demonstrate the importance of the<br />
river in Syria’s prosperous past. The Lower<br />
Euphrates is the location of such sites as Mari and<br />
Dura Europos, which although not as visually<br />
impressive as others in Syria, do help to put all<br />
the history into context. The Upper Euphrates is<br />
no less rich with ancient ruins; the remains of<br />
Rasafa, Halabiyya and Deir Ez-Zor are well worth<br />
the long journey necessary to reach them.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/syria ● 01993 838 425 ● Syria 51
Umayyad Mosque, Aleppo<br />
Aleppo<br />
Thanks to its position at the end of the Silk<br />
Route, Aleppo has always been a city of<br />
commerce, in contrast to its neighbour Damascus<br />
which has traditionally been home to the<br />
government and religious elites of the region.<br />
This fact is reflected in the endless bustling souqs,<br />
where a visitor can happily while away many<br />
hours looking for a bargain, or just drinking in the<br />
lively and entertaining street scenes.<br />
Elsewhere, away from the souqs, ancient<br />
churches mingle with Jewish, Armenian and<br />
Turkish influences in the winding streets and alleys<br />
of the old city. Rising above the rooftops is the<br />
8th century Umayyad Mosque (sometimes<br />
known as the Grand Mosque), reputed to contain<br />
the tomb of Zachary, father of John the Baptist.<br />
The entire old city stands in the shadow of the<br />
edifice of the 13th century Citadel. Built on a<br />
natural promontory, the fortress dominates the<br />
skyline and is a reminder of the city’s strategic<br />
importance in the past. It is a very atmospheric<br />
place at sunset, when the echoes of the call to<br />
prayer reverberate around Aleppo.<br />
Aleppo also has an excellent National Museum,<br />
recommended especially for those visiting the<br />
archaeological sites of Ugarit and Mari as many<br />
of the finds are displayed here.<br />
BEIT SALAHIEH, ALEPPO<br />
After a lavish renovation, Beit Salahieh<br />
reopened in 2010 as one of Aleppo’s most<br />
luxurious and historic hotels. It has a fantastic<br />
location, charmingly ensconced in some of the<br />
older streets at the foot of the Citadel, away<br />
from the hustle and bustle of the souq area.<br />
The rooftop bar and restaurant take full<br />
advantage of this excellent location, with stunning<br />
views across to the Citadel, which is lit up at<br />
night. There are 40 rooms spread over three<br />
houses that make up the hotel, all fitted out with<br />
the modern facilities you would expect, while<br />
retaining a distinctive Syrian character.<br />
Carpet seller in an Aleppo souq<br />
Aleppo’s souqs<br />
Aleppo’s covered souqs, reputedly<br />
forming the longest market in the world,<br />
stretch for over ten miles. The souqs<br />
retain their original structure and layout,<br />
so different products are for sale in<br />
specific areas of the market, hence<br />
names such as the Souq Al-Hibal, the<br />
rope market, and Souq Al-Attarine,<br />
where perfumes and incense are sold.<br />
Locals continue to use the souq for<br />
everyday shopping, much as their<br />
ancestors did centuries ago.<br />
52<br />
Citadel, Aleppo
Children, Aleppo<br />
The Hittite Temple at Ain Dara, near Aleppo<br />
MANSOURIYA PALACE HOTEL,<br />
ALEPPO<br />
The renovation of Mansouriya, a 16th century<br />
house, took a full seven years before it opened in<br />
2002. Today, the nine suites are a haven of calm<br />
and luxury. Three suites sit on the first floor,<br />
looking into a central courtyard with covered<br />
seating areas, while three occupy the next floor<br />
and the final three are tucked behind the<br />
restaurant and Jacuzzi area. All are fabulously<br />
decorated in a style which reflects a particular<br />
period of Syrian history, giving each suite a unique<br />
character. The hotel is ideally located close to<br />
Aleppo’s covered souqs and the Bab Qennesrin<br />
Gate into the old town.<br />
YASMEEN D’ALEP, ALEPPO<br />
One of many townhouse hotels in Aleppo, this<br />
restored 17th century Arabic house has all the<br />
charm you might hope for. The eight rooms are<br />
bright and well decorated, and the care and detail<br />
in the renovation is plain to see. Situated in the<br />
Jdayde area, it is centrally located for visits to the<br />
Citadel and souqs, yet it’s something of a hidden<br />
retreat as the moment you enter the courtyard<br />
you instantly leave the hustle and bustle of the<br />
city behind you.<br />
Aleppo’s souqs<br />
Mansouriya Palace Hotel, Aleppo<br />
St Simeon’s<br />
These ruins of a Byzantine basilica close to<br />
Aleppo are set on a hillside looking over the<br />
limestone-strewn landscape. They are highly<br />
significant because this is supposedly the location<br />
of St Simeon Stylites’ efforts to lead his extreme,<br />
ascetic lifestyle. To escape a rapidly-growing band<br />
of admirers, he elected to live atop a series of<br />
progressively taller pillars. His fame continued to<br />
grow, and upon his death, after 39 years living at<br />
the top of a pillar, an undignified struggle broke<br />
out for his relics. The remains of the massive<br />
church complex surround the stump of his final,<br />
18 metre-high pillar.<br />
The Dead Cities<br />
The Dead Cities are a cluster of Byzantine cities<br />
to the southwest of Aleppo that appear to have<br />
been spontaneously deserted by their inhabitants.<br />
One theory is that, as the Byzantine era gave way<br />
to the Arab world, trade routes changed through<br />
the region and consequently these cities lost their<br />
raison d’être and the inhabitants simply moved to<br />
other settlements that were faring better. The<br />
beauty of the Dead Cities is that they are not<br />
grand provincial capitals, but the remains of fairly<br />
small settlements with simple, everyday structures<br />
like houses, taverns and public baths. These are in<br />
an amazing state of preservation, especially given<br />
that little restoration work has taken place, and<br />
when you wander around them it’s easy to<br />
imagine that they are still inhabited.<br />
St Simeon’s monastery<br />
www.audleytravel.com/syria ● 01993 838 425 ● Syria 53
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Syria specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 425<br />
Getting around<br />
Crac des Chevaliers<br />
We provide private air-conditioned vehicles for<br />
journeys in Syria, either small minibuses or saloon<br />
cars. You can choose to travel with just a driver,<br />
or to have a driver and guide if you would like<br />
detailed explanations at the archaeological sites.<br />
When to go<br />
Young Bedouin girl<br />
Hama and Homs<br />
These cities are located along the main route<br />
between Damascus and Aleppo, and because<br />
of their proximity to some of Syria’s central<br />
sites, most visitors end up spending a night in<br />
one or the other. Homs is the third city of<br />
Syria and is the nearest base for reaching Crac<br />
des Chevaliers and many of the other castles<br />
in the area. Hama is the fourth largest city and<br />
has more to offer the visitor – its history is<br />
colourful and long, and its geography is<br />
engaging; nurtured by the Orontes River, and<br />
not far from the foot of the nearby mountains.<br />
Harnessing the river, massive wooden<br />
waterwheels creak and groan in pretty water<br />
parks. Like Homs, Hama is a good base for<br />
visiting sites including the Dead Cities and<br />
Apamea, or as a staging post to link the<br />
major cities.<br />
Apamea<br />
Crac des Chevaliers<br />
Crac des Chevaliers represents the zenith of<br />
Crusader military architecture. Occupying a<br />
bluff overlooking a strategic pass between the<br />
coast and the interior, it was first fortified by<br />
the Emir of Homs in the early 11th century<br />
AD. Captured by the Crusaders, it was handed<br />
over in 1144 to the Knights Hospitaller, one<br />
of the military orders, and it was they who<br />
constructed the massive curtain walls that<br />
seem to be extensions of the sheer cliffs on<br />
which they were built. Wandering around the<br />
site, you can appreciate the skill with which<br />
the Hospitallers shaped their fortress around<br />
the natural slopes and cliffs, and marvel at the<br />
beauty of vaulted passageways.<br />
Apamea<br />
Apamea, like Palmyra, was a trading post of<br />
the Roman Empire. At times it surpassed the<br />
importance of Palmyra, as is evident from the<br />
main street (the Cardo Maximus) which is<br />
longer than those of either Roman Palmyra<br />
or Damascus. It is perfectly aligned north-tosouth,<br />
flanked by tall, ornate colonnades.<br />
Chariot wheel ruts score the paving stones,<br />
and what were once ancient doorways of<br />
shops and residences open out onto partially<br />
excavated fields.<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
March, April, September and October are the<br />
best months to visit Syria, with low rainfall and<br />
temperatures in the mid to late twenties Celsius.<br />
The country enjoys a typical Mediterranean<br />
climate with hot, dry summers and cool winters,<br />
when the north of the country usually sees fairly<br />
significant rainfall. There is of course some<br />
regional variation in the climate throughout the<br />
country, with towns in the east much drier than<br />
Aleppo in the north of the country.<br />
Time difference: GMT+2 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 5 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Syria on our website, alternatively<br />
please call our specialists to discuss your plans.<br />
Noria waterwheel in Hama<br />
54<br />
Umayyad Mosque, Damascus
Suggested itineraries<br />
St.Simeon’s<br />
Aleppo<br />
St.Simeon’s<br />
Aleppo<br />
St.Simeon’s<br />
Aleppo<br />
Crac des<br />
Chevaliers<br />
Apamea<br />
Damascus<br />
SYRIA<br />
Palmyra<br />
Lattakia<br />
Crac des<br />
Chevaliers<br />
Apamea<br />
Homs<br />
Deir Mar Musa<br />
Ma‘alula<br />
Damascus<br />
SYRIA<br />
Palmyra<br />
Crac des<br />
Chevaliers<br />
Tripoli<br />
Byblos<br />
Beirut<br />
Beiteddine<br />
LEBANON<br />
Apamea<br />
Deir Mar Musa<br />
Ma‘alula<br />
Damascus<br />
SYRIA<br />
Palmyra<br />
Bosra<br />
Bosra<br />
Bosra<br />
Classic Syria<br />
This tour takes just over a week to see Syria’s<br />
major highlights and is the perfect introduction to<br />
the principal archaeological ruins and the great<br />
Syrian cities of Aleppo and Damascus.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Fly from the UK to Damascus, where<br />
you will be met and taken to your<br />
hotel for a three night stay.<br />
Visit Bosra in the morning. In the<br />
afternoon return to Damascus to<br />
explore by yourself.<br />
Another day to discover Damascus.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Palmyra to visit the ruins<br />
before sunset.<br />
A long day, with a second chance to<br />
see Palmyra, before visiting the site of<br />
Apamea and moving on to Aleppo.<br />
Visit St Simeon’s basilica in the<br />
morning before returning to Aleppo<br />
to explore the old city.<br />
Another day to discover more<br />
of Aleppo.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> from Aleppo to Damascus,<br />
stopping to visit Crac des Chevaliers<br />
en route.<br />
Transfer to the airport for your<br />
return flight to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
Adding a day or two in Aleppo and Damascus is<br />
worthwhile if you can spare the time – this will<br />
give you the opportunity to discover much<br />
more of the cities and have time for shopping<br />
in the souqs.<br />
Grand Tour of Syria<br />
This tour lingers a bit longer over the<br />
archaeological sites than the Classic Syria trip and<br />
includes some of Syria’s less well-visited sites, such<br />
as Marqab Castle.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Fly from the UK to Damascus,<br />
where you will be met and taken<br />
to your hotel.<br />
Explore the old city of Damascus,<br />
taking in the Umayyad Mosque and<br />
the souqs.<br />
Visit Bosra and the other sites in the<br />
south of Syria.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> from Damascus to Palmyra,<br />
stopping to visit Ma‘alula and Deir<br />
Mar Musa on the way.<br />
A whole day to explore the ruins<br />
of Palmyra.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Aleppo, stopping to visit<br />
the Roman site of Apamea en route.<br />
Visit the basilica of St Simeon.<br />
Discover Aleppo’s souqs and Citadel.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Syria’s coast, stopping en<br />
route to see some of the castles and<br />
ancient ruins in the area.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Homs, with a visit to<br />
Marqab Castle and Saifa on the way.<br />
Visit Crac des Chevaliers, before<br />
returning to Damascus.<br />
Explore Damascus further.<br />
Transfer to the airport for your<br />
return flight to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
The trip could be extended with a trip to Jordan<br />
visiting Jerash, Petra and Wadi Rum before flying<br />
back to the UK from Amman.<br />
Syria and Lebanon<br />
Combined<br />
This itinerary is a two week trip, including all<br />
the most important archaeological sites and cities<br />
in Lebanon and Syria. The itinerary is very easily<br />
reversed if you want to end your trip in the<br />
vibrant city of Beirut.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Fly from the UK to Beirut, where you<br />
will be met and taken to your hotel.<br />
Visit Sidon and Beiteddine, then<br />
spend the rest of the afternoon<br />
exploring Beirut.<br />
Go to Tripoli and Byblos, returning<br />
to Beirut for the night.<br />
Visit Beirut’s National Museum and<br />
the Solidère district.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Damascus in Syria, stopping<br />
to visit the magnificent ruins of<br />
Baalbek on the way.<br />
Explore the old city of Damascus.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> south from Damascus to visit<br />
the archaeological ruins of Bosra.<br />
Head east to Palmyra, stopping at<br />
Ma‘alula and Deir Mar Musa en route.<br />
Visit the ruins of Palmyra.<br />
Visit the site of Apamea before<br />
continuing to Aleppo.<br />
Start your exploration of Aleppo.<br />
Visit the Citadel, the National<br />
Museum and the souqs.<br />
Visit the ruins of St Simeon’s basilica<br />
before returning to Aleppo for the<br />
rest of the day.<br />
Return to Damascus, stopping to visit<br />
Crac des Chevaliers on the way.<br />
Transfer to the airport for your<br />
return flight to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> on to Jordan after your final stay in<br />
Damascus, and visit another of the region’s great<br />
sites, Petra, before returning to the UK.<br />
Azem Palace, Damascus<br />
www.audleytravel.com/syria ● 01993 838 425 ● Syria 55
Lebanon<br />
Though small, Lebanon is home<br />
to a fantastic array of historical<br />
sites as well as having a vibrant<br />
modern culture, which makes it<br />
something of a trendsetter in the<br />
Arab World. Beirut is re-establishing<br />
itself as the principal capital of the<br />
region, looking to reclaim its former<br />
sobriquet, the Paris of the Orient.<br />
The coast is dotted with historical<br />
sites, such as Byblos and Sidon, while<br />
the interior of the country hides<br />
beautiful landscapes, such as the<br />
Qadisha Valley and the snow-capped<br />
Lebanon Mountains. The sheer<br />
height of the columns at the ancient<br />
site of Baalbek, in the northeast, is<br />
impressive enough, but the majesty of<br />
the temples dedicated to Bacchus and<br />
Jupiter also have to be seen to be<br />
believed. Hospitality, in particular<br />
cuisine, is one of the highlights – the<br />
food here is perhaps the tastiest of all<br />
the countries in this region.<br />
Temple of Jupiter, Baalbek<br />
4 Beiteddine<br />
An extensive palace complex in<br />
the hills above Beirut and home<br />
to some fine Byzantine mosaics.<br />
5<br />
5 Tripoli<br />
Associated with Crusader<br />
history, the Citadel of Raymond<br />
de Saint Gilles dominates the<br />
skyline of Tripoli.<br />
6<br />
Baalbek<br />
3<br />
1<br />
2<br />
4<br />
6<br />
Interior of St Paul’s Church, Beirut<br />
1 Beirut<br />
A glitzy capital finding its feet<br />
again, and a fascinating mix of<br />
old and new.<br />
2 Byblos<br />
Dating back eight millennia,<br />
the ruins of Byblos have a<br />
picturesque setting beside the<br />
Mediterranean Sea.<br />
Perhaps the most impressive<br />
and most important of all the<br />
archaeological sites in the<br />
Middle East.<br />
Lebanese cuisine<br />
Lebanese cuisine is renowned<br />
around the world, known for its<br />
mezze, including such dishes as<br />
hummus, tabouleh and falafel.<br />
3<br />
Sidon<br />
A beautiful coastal town to<br />
the south of Beirut, especially<br />
important during the Crusades.<br />
Lebanese mezze<br />
56
Beirut street scene<br />
Beirut<br />
Once known as the Paris of the Orient, Beirut is<br />
again becoming the leading city of the Middle<br />
East. Riven by sectarian divides during the civil<br />
war, the city today is vibrant and bustling. The<br />
National Museum is an essential stop – bright and<br />
well laid-out, with interesting historical displays.<br />
The central Solidère district attracts visitors and<br />
locals alike: its restaurants and cafés are busy<br />
throughout the day. Evidence of Beirut’s ancient<br />
past is visible, with the ruins of Roman<br />
bathhouses, whilst the parliament buildings<br />
demonstrate the French influence of the Mandate<br />
era. The Christian quarters in the east are a maze<br />
of streets and staircases linking hills, and here you<br />
will find some of the best restaurants and bars.<br />
Beirut is truly a Mediterranean city and its<br />
Corniche is wonderful for experiencing the locals’<br />
legendary joie de vivre.<br />
ALBERGO HOTEL, BEIRUT<br />
A Relais and Chateaux property, the Albergo<br />
Hotel is something of a Beiruti institution. It is<br />
located in the Ashrafiyeh district, on a small, quiet<br />
street surrounded by bars, restaurants and cafés.<br />
The hotel retains many of its original features,<br />
including old-fashioned lifts and ornate furniture.<br />
Rooms are spacious and some have balconies<br />
overlooking the street. The hotel has a rooftop<br />
terrace with a small swimming pool. The Italian<br />
restaurant is renowned and a Thai restaurant adds<br />
to the choice of dining options should you want a<br />
change from Lebanese cuisine during your trip.<br />
Phoenicia InterContinental, Beirut<br />
The Mövenpick Hotel and Resort, Beirut<br />
THE MÖVENPICK HOTEL &<br />
RESORT, BEIRUT<br />
Located just off the Corniche with a superb<br />
waterfront location, the Mövenpick Hotel is<br />
oriented towards the west, so the views of the<br />
sunset over the Mediterranean are hard to beat.<br />
It has a range of facilities essential for a<br />
comfortable stay in Beirut, including a large<br />
swimming pool and extensive gym complex for<br />
those needing more activity after sightseeing. The<br />
Mövenpick is a good place to sample Lebanese<br />
cuisine at its best, in the Burj Al-Hammam<br />
Restaurant, while its bar has an extensive wine<br />
list, with plenty of local wine.<br />
PHOENICIA INTERCONTINENTAL,<br />
BEIRUT<br />
The Phoenicia InterContinental Hotel in Beirut<br />
deservedly enjoys a reputation as one of the most<br />
glamorous and luxurious hotels in the city. The<br />
hotel was a landmark and fashionable hive of<br />
activity in the 1960s, when Beirut was at the<br />
height of its wealth, glamour and sophistication.<br />
Today it still offers luxury facilities, stylish décor<br />
and fine furnishings. The rooms are large and<br />
decorated in an elegant, understated fashion, with<br />
plump pillows and soft bed linen. Six restaurants,<br />
a bar and a lounge offer a wide variety of cuisine<br />
and areas to unwind, while the two swimming<br />
pools and spa provide the perfect antidote to a<br />
long day of sightseeing.<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> in Lebanon<br />
Lebanon is easily visited in a trip of a week<br />
to ten days, with all the major sites within<br />
reach of Beirut. Typically you would be based<br />
in the capital and take day excursions to<br />
Byblos, Tripoli, Sidon, Beiteddine and Baalbek.<br />
Trips can be extended, with extra time to<br />
relax in Beirut, or up in the hills or ski<br />
resorts. Lebanon combines well with time in<br />
Syria and Jordan, usually travelling by road to<br />
cross the land borders. For a comprehensive<br />
tour of these Levantine countries, you would<br />
need around three weeks to include sites<br />
such as Baalbek, Palmyra and Petra.<br />
Accommodation<br />
Accommodation in Beirut tends to be in<br />
international hotels, with a range of locations<br />
and prices. Some of these have fantastic sea<br />
views out onto the Mediterranean. Outside<br />
Beirut the hotels are not quite of the same<br />
standard but there are some good options<br />
along the coast and in the mountains for a<br />
change of scenery.<br />
Druze man, Lebanon<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Lebanon, please<br />
see page 59.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Lebanon<br />
specialists 01993 838 405<br />
Lebanon 57
Sea Castle, Sidon<br />
Baalbek<br />
Baalbek is the main focus for many trips to<br />
Lebanon, and with good reason – it is one of the<br />
most impressive sites of the region, giving visitors<br />
a taste of the power and might of the Roman<br />
empire. Standing at the north of the Bekaa Valley,<br />
a remote location away from the coast, it has<br />
well-preserved temples. One of these is dedicated<br />
to the Roman god of grapes and wine, Bacchus, a<br />
little incongruous nowadays given the proximity of<br />
the site to a local mosque. Another is dedicated<br />
to Jupiter and once had 54 columns marking its<br />
perimeter. Today only six remain standing, but<br />
they are still the largest columns in the world –<br />
over twenty metres high and with a girth of just<br />
over two metres.<br />
The Bekaa Valley<br />
Running along the border with Syria and sitting<br />
between two mountain ranges, the Bekaa Valley<br />
is an agricultural region in the east of Lebanon.<br />
The area has been used for farming since ancient<br />
times, and provided grains for the Roman Empire.<br />
Nowadays the valley is known for its vineyards<br />
and wineries and Lebanese wine is some of the<br />
best produced in the region. Several of the<br />
wineries are open for visits and tastings, including<br />
Ksara and Chateau Musar.<br />
Sidon<br />
As the birthplace of former Prime Minister Rafiq<br />
Hariri, Sidon has undergone several renewal<br />
projects in recent years, which give a rather<br />
sanitised feel to its souqs and historic sites.<br />
Nonetheless, it has a very picturesque setting,<br />
with the Crusader’s Sea Castle acting as a focal<br />
point and gateway to the town. The souqs hide<br />
interesting old churches, caravanserais and<br />
mosques. The town, like Tripoli, was known for<br />
its soap industry and today there is an interesting<br />
museum which displays the original tools and<br />
machinery used by workers.<br />
Ksara wine from the Bekaa Valley<br />
Beiteddine and Deir<br />
Al Qamar<br />
The two former palaces of Beiteddine and Deir<br />
Al Qamar belonged to the rulers of Lebanon<br />
during the Ottoman period. Beiteddine is a series<br />
of three interlinked buildings, with the stables of<br />
the palace now housing some fine Byzantine<br />
mosaic, taken from a nearby site. Deir Al Qamar<br />
has further palaces and is also a good place to<br />
enjoy a typical Lebanese snack.<br />
Temple of Bacchus, Baalbek<br />
58<br />
Beiteddine Palace
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itinerary shown is designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and is a route that<br />
works particularly well. We can use this as a basis<br />
to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Lebanon specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Beirut<br />
Byblos<br />
Tripoli<br />
LEBANON<br />
Baalbek<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 405<br />
Getting around<br />
Sidon<br />
Beiteddine<br />
SYRIA<br />
Byblos<br />
The harbour and Crusader castle, Byblos<br />
Byblos<br />
Byblos is one of the oldest continually<br />
inhabited cities in the world and its<br />
archaeological ruins point to beginnings in the<br />
fifth millennium BC. The city became more<br />
established in the third millennium BC, when<br />
the Phoenicians began to colonise the area.<br />
In later years, Byblos was subjected to<br />
numerous different influences, including the<br />
Amorites, the Egyptians, the Greeks, the<br />
Assyrians, the Persians and the Romans.<br />
Today, Byblos is dominated by its ruined<br />
Crusader castle and only by climbing its<br />
heights do you get a true sense of the scale<br />
and importance of the site.<br />
Tripoli<br />
In Lebanon you will usually travel with a driver<br />
or a driver and guide, depending on how much<br />
detail you prefer at the various historical sites.<br />
Vehicles are modern and air-conditioned.<br />
Getting around Beirut is very easy as there are<br />
plenty of taxis available, but some areas, such as<br />
Solidère and Hamra, are best explored on foot.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Lebanon has a typically Mediterranean climate,<br />
with cool and often wet winters, and hot<br />
summers. The best times to travel are spring and<br />
autumn, when the temperatures are moderate.<br />
The mountain peaks remain snow-covered<br />
until the late spring, but visits at this time are<br />
still possible.<br />
Time difference: GMT+1 hour<br />
Flight time from UK: 5-6 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Lebanon on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Lebanon Uncovered<br />
This trip fits into one week and will introduce<br />
you to all the major archaeological sites, with<br />
time to experience the vibrant, cultural mix of<br />
modern-day Lebanon.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Fly from London to Beirut and<br />
transfer to your hotel.<br />
Discover Beirut, the National<br />
Museum and the redeveloped<br />
Solidère area.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> north to visit the ruins of<br />
Byblos and the souqs of Tripoli.<br />
Go to Baalbek to visit the ruins and<br />
on the return journey stop to taste<br />
Lebanese wine at the Ksara Winery.<br />
Head south from Beirut to visit<br />
the port of Sidon, then up into the<br />
hills to visit the Ottoman palaces<br />
at Beiteddine.<br />
Continue exploring Beirut.<br />
Transfer to the airport for your<br />
return flight to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
Take a few extra days to soak up Beirut’s unique<br />
atmosphere or continue into Syria and/or Jordan<br />
to complete your experience of the Levant,<br />
visiting the ancient sites of Palmyra and Petra<br />
during your trip.<br />
Tripoli is the biggest town in the north of<br />
Lebanon and seems to look east for its<br />
influences. The souqs are much more<br />
authentic than those of Sidon (which have<br />
been extensively tidied up in recent years)<br />
and the old town has some beautiful examples<br />
of Islamic architecture in the form of mosques,<br />
madrassas and hammams. The whole town is<br />
overlooked by the Citadel of Raymond de<br />
Saint Gilles, constructed during the era of<br />
Christian influence in the Crusades. A view<br />
from here shows the jumble of the old town<br />
below, with the Mediterranean in the distance.<br />
Soap on sale, Tripoli<br />
View over the Bekaa Valley<br />
www.audleytravel.com/lebanon ● 01993 838 405 ● Lebanon 59
Morocco<br />
Although less than a four hour flight<br />
from the United Kingdom, Morocco<br />
really is a world away. The narrow alleys<br />
of medinas, centuries old and encircled with<br />
solid ramparts, ring with the cries of<br />
artisans and merchants in a vivid swirl of<br />
colours and scents. Beyond the cities,<br />
towering mountains are home to hardy<br />
Berbers living in ancient, mud-built<br />
villages pinned to sheer slopes. Valleys<br />
carve through arid landscapes and palm<br />
plantations surround fortified villages that<br />
shelter amongst the first waves of the<br />
Sahara’s dunes. Morocco’s history has seen<br />
Roman invasions, Islam borne by Arabian<br />
soldiers, mighty Berber dynasties and the<br />
heavy hand of French colonialism. Each<br />
have left their own legacy; ruins, mosaics,<br />
tombs and mosques all speak of a long and<br />
chequered past, whilst also forming an<br />
intrinsic part of Morocco’s present. This<br />
heritage is not just a physical presence:<br />
Moroccan cuisine also bears witness to the<br />
country’s multicultural history. Traditional<br />
Arab influences are overlaid with<br />
indigenous Berber flavours and more than<br />
a touch of French sophistication.<br />
60
<strong>Audley</strong> in Morocco<br />
5<br />
1<br />
2 3<br />
4<br />
7<br />
8<br />
6<br />
Morocco’s diversity guarantees that it offers<br />
something to suit all tastes. Marrakesh and<br />
the High Atlas Mountains are traditionally<br />
favourite destinations, with the ancient city<br />
of Fez and the walled coastal town of<br />
Essaouira also becoming increasingly<br />
popular. Trips vary from six nights to<br />
three week comprehensive touring itineraries.<br />
For those looking for something a bit more<br />
adventurous, we can arrange treks in the<br />
Atlas Mountains, including ascents of Jebel<br />
Toubkal, or the chance to camp on the<br />
fringes of the Sahara Desert.<br />
Accommodation<br />
1 Djema El Fna<br />
As the sun sets, Marrakesh’s<br />
main square transforms into<br />
an open theatre with snake<br />
charmers, storytellers and<br />
acrobats. The huge variety of<br />
food stalls includes delicacies<br />
ranging from simple soups and<br />
kebabs to sheep brains.<br />
2 Toubkal Lodge<br />
Perched on a hillside<br />
overlooking the beautiful<br />
Azzaden Valley, the Toubkal<br />
Lodge offers the perfect retreat<br />
for those looking to escape<br />
the crowds.<br />
3 Mountain walks<br />
Whether you want a gentle<br />
stroll to a traditional Berber<br />
village, or to scale North Africa’s<br />
highest peak, the High Atlas are<br />
a stunning backdrop for walks<br />
and hikes.<br />
4 Ait Benhaddou<br />
The village of Ait Benhaddou<br />
has understandably earned<br />
many film credits, and continues<br />
to be one of the most<br />
picturesque mud-brick<br />
fortifications in the country.<br />
Dunes, the Erg Chebbi<br />
5 Essaouira<br />
With atmospheric ramparts<br />
and a large fishing fleet,<br />
Essaouira is a great place to<br />
unwind and enjoy the freshest<br />
fish in Morocco.<br />
6 The Erg Chebbi<br />
This vast sand-sea of rolling<br />
dunes is Morocco’s prime spot<br />
to witness a spectacular sunset.<br />
7 Voloubilis<br />
The furthest western outpost<br />
of the Roman Empire, Voloubilis<br />
boasts some impressive mosaics.<br />
8 Fez medina<br />
More traditional and<br />
conservative than Marrakesh,<br />
the winding maze of Fez’s<br />
medina has the feel of a<br />
living museum.<br />
Moroccan riads<br />
With central leafy courtyards<br />
and a handful of rooms, these<br />
charming boutique hotels offer<br />
an excellent base for any stay<br />
in Morocco.<br />
Moroccan cuisine<br />
Diverse and delicious, Moroccan<br />
food is like no other. Popular<br />
dishes range from tajines and<br />
couscous to flaky pastry pastilla.<br />
Finding local character accommodation is<br />
always high on our list of priorities. We have<br />
scoured the country for the best riads and<br />
hotels Morocco has to offer, and can<br />
recommend a wide range of properties from<br />
the simple and traditional to the modern and<br />
luxurious. In Marrakesh, Fez and Essaouira,<br />
we recommend staying inside the old city<br />
walls, known as the medina, as this gives you<br />
a real feel for the city. Alternatively, if you<br />
are looking for a peaceful escape, then there<br />
are areas outside the city that are worth<br />
considering. In more remote areas of the<br />
mountains and the arid south, there are a<br />
growing number of properties adapted from<br />
old mud and brick kasbahs, which also<br />
provide distinct character and comfort.<br />
Ramadan and Eid<br />
Being a Muslim country, certain key dates<br />
and festivals such as the month of Ramadan<br />
and the festivals of Eid can make a difference<br />
to your travel plans. They do not rule out a<br />
visit though, and by checking each year’s<br />
calendar we can make sure that your trip is<br />
planned accordingly.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Morocco, please<br />
see pages 76-77.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Morocco<br />
specialists 01993 838 420<br />
Voloubilis, Meknes<br />
Morocco 61
Djema el Fna, Marrakesh<br />
Marrakesh<br />
Marrakesh is a fabled city and the name itself is<br />
one of the most evocative in travel. Over its<br />
turbulent thousand-year history the city has fallen<br />
in and out of favour with the ruling sultans, but its<br />
function as a market and place of trade has<br />
continued regardless. Rising above this activity are<br />
proud and beautiful reminders of the city’s past in<br />
the towering minarets, ornate tombs and<br />
cavernous palaces. They are encircled by ochre<br />
ramparts, shaded beneath swaying palms and<br />
framed by the distant backdrop of the imposing<br />
Atlas Mountains.<br />
Marrakesh’s medina, souqs<br />
and gardens<br />
The old medina and souqs define the city of<br />
Marrakesh, a sprawling lattice of narrow alleyways<br />
that resound with the hum of the manufacture<br />
and sale of countless goods. At its heart is the<br />
Djema El Fna, an open space that comes alive at<br />
night, packed with entertainers and soothsayers.<br />
In contrast, Marrakesh’s many gardens offer a<br />
haven of tranquility in a busy city. They include<br />
the expansive Menara and Agdal gardens, but the<br />
best known are the more compact Majorelle<br />
Gardens inside the Ville Nouvelle. Here, vibrant<br />
Moroccan food<br />
Food is one of the great pleasures of travel<br />
in Morocco. Whether you eat in a restaurant<br />
or at a busy stall in the souq, you will be<br />
delighted with the unique flavours of local,<br />
fresh ingredients. Perhaps the most unusual<br />
dish is pastilla, which is minced pigeon meat<br />
cooked with sweet spices such as cinnamon<br />
and folded between layers of flaky pastry<br />
that is usually topped with a dusting of sugar.<br />
As strange as the combination may sound,<br />
the contrast of sweet and savoury is very<br />
tasty, although larger portions can be<br />
extremely rich. Tajine is a national dish, the<br />
name referring to the conical pot in which<br />
the stew is slowly cooked. Again, ingredients<br />
such as dates and apricots bring sweet<br />
flavours into a savoury dish, with red meat<br />
such as lamb or beef being slowly cooked<br />
bougainvillea and nasturtiums are combined<br />
with more exotic plants, all surrounding a striking,<br />
cobalt-blue art deco pavilion, which now houses<br />
a small Museum of Islamic Arts. Originally<br />
completed in 1924 by Jacques Majorelle, the<br />
gardens were lovingly restored by the late<br />
designer, Yves Saint Laurent, to whom there is<br />
a discreet shrine within the grounds.<br />
Learning to cook at La Maison Arabe<br />
until it is very tender. Couscous, another<br />
favourite, is made of semolina-like grains of<br />
half-baked flour that are repeatedly steamed<br />
and oiled so the grains do not stick together.<br />
This is often eaten with a tajine, although<br />
Moroccans tend to prefer to scoop up their<br />
sauce with a crispy flatbread. For those who<br />
want to find out more, certain riads offer half<br />
day cookery courses, particularly in Marrakesh.<br />
Majorelle Gardens, Marrakesh<br />
62
The Saadian Tombs, Marrakesh<br />
Souq, Marrakesh<br />
The riads of Marrakesh<br />
Traditional riads are our favourite places to stay<br />
in Morocco. These charming properties offer<br />
accommodation to just a few guests and provide<br />
a uniquely Moroccan experience. Many are<br />
converted from 19th or 20th century merchant’s<br />
houses. A typical riad has rooms which surround<br />
an enclosed courtyard with a garden or fountain.<br />
They tend to be small, with less than 20 rooms,<br />
and are furnished with a mixture of traditional<br />
and modern French-influenced styles. Breakfast is<br />
often included, and in most riads traditional<br />
evening meals can also be prepared with advance<br />
warning. We have included a few of our<br />
favourites here, and our specialists can advise<br />
you on which one to pick.<br />
RIAD KNIZA, MARRAKESH<br />
Built in the 18th century, Riad Kniza is a small,<br />
luxury ‘Hotel de Charme’ in the heart of the<br />
medina. The property has been restored by a<br />
renowned local antiques dealer, with some<br />
beautiful pieces artfully placed in the courtyards<br />
and cubby holes of the riad. The tastefully<br />
designed rooms and suites are built around three<br />
inner courtyards, where you will find a small<br />
plunge pool and spa facilities. Riad Kniza is an<br />
excellent base from which to explore the city and<br />
is only a short walk from the Djema El Fna, the<br />
souqs and the most important monuments and<br />
cultural treasures of the imperial city.<br />
Riad Djemanna, Marrakesh<br />
RIAD DJEMANNA, MARRAKESH<br />
This intimate, attractive riad has a small number<br />
of rooms, each decorated individually and with an<br />
en suite shower room. Built and adapted from<br />
two older riads, the two inner courtyards each<br />
have a small pool and comfortable sitting areas.<br />
Here you can relax, read and enjoy a mint tea,<br />
before moving into the small dining area, where<br />
traditional, homemade Moroccan dishes are<br />
served. The two buildings each have a roof<br />
La Sultana, Marrakesh<br />
Villa Des Orangers, Marrakesh<br />
terrace with sun loungers and great views over<br />
the medina, while the older of them has a small<br />
hammam and two massage rooms. Djemanna is a<br />
great choice for those looking for an authentic<br />
feel and good value in the heart of the medina.<br />
VILLA DES ORANGERS,<br />
MARRAKESH<br />
Just a short walk from the Djema El Fna, this<br />
Relais and Chateaux property deservedly enjoys a<br />
reputation as one of Marrakesh’s finest places to<br />
stay. The stylish and spacious suites provide a<br />
perfect mixture of old fashioned charm and<br />
modern facilities. Fountains gently burble in the<br />
courtyards, ruffling the rose petals on the water’s<br />
surface, while orange trees provide cooling shade.<br />
After a busy day of sightseeing, there is a<br />
luxurious spa area with a gym, hammam, pool<br />
and massage rooms.<br />
LA SULTANA, MARRAKESH<br />
La Sultana is a collection of charming individual<br />
riads, which combine to form a characterful,<br />
luxury hotel that feels much smaller than it<br />
actually is. Each of the 28 rooms has a different<br />
theme and design, reflecting the various influences<br />
that have impacted on Moroccan history. The<br />
spacious roof terraces directly overlook the<br />
Saadian Tombs while offering distant views of the<br />
snow-capped Atlas Mountains. The large pool is<br />
one of the best you will find in any riad and there<br />
is a first class spa for treatments after a busy day.<br />
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Berber village, High Atlas<br />
KASBAH TAMADOT,<br />
HIGH ATLAS<br />
Just an hour’s drive from Marrakesh, Richard<br />
Branson’s Kasbah Tamadot showcases some of<br />
the finest examples of traditional art and design.<br />
No expense has been spared in restoring this<br />
remarkable building. Ornate lamps and carved<br />
decoration beautifully set off the stunning<br />
mountain backdrop, and each of the 24 rooms<br />
and suites has been individually furnished. The<br />
Kasbah Tamadot also boasts an indoor and<br />
outdoor pool, a fully-equipped gym, a tennis court<br />
and sweeping views over the surrounding valleys.<br />
KASBAH BAB OURIKA,<br />
HIGH ATLAS<br />
The stylish Kasbah Bab Ourika perches on a<br />
hilltop at the apex of the Ourika Valley. Built to<br />
resemble an authentic Moroccan kasbah, the<br />
interior is modern and minimal. All of the rooms<br />
are spacious, with muted colours and understated<br />
furnishings which create an airy feel. The Kasbah<br />
operates a number of environmentally friendly<br />
projects. The hot water supply is heated by solar<br />
panels and the property generates its own<br />
electricity, while all the food is locally sourced.<br />
Kasbah Tamadot, High Atlas<br />
The High Atlas Mountains<br />
The Atlas Mountains are in fact three distinct<br />
ranges that run in bands across Morocco’s<br />
interior, dividing it into strips of lower-lying land.<br />
Furthest north are the Middle Atlas, while the<br />
southerly range are the Anti Atlas that attempt<br />
to keep the desolate Western Sahara at bay.<br />
The central High Atlas range is the most dramatic<br />
and by far the most accessible, containing<br />
North Africa’s highest peak – the 4,167m Jebel<br />
Toubkal – as well as countless Berber villages<br />
terraced onto precipitous ledges. From Marrakesh,<br />
it only takes about 45 minutes to drive to the<br />
High Atlas, a wonderful chance to retreat to the<br />
clear mountain air.<br />
64<br />
DOMAINE MALIKA, HIGH ATLAS<br />
This hotel offers guests a genuine luxury<br />
boutique hotel experience. It is nestled in a<br />
large valley abundant in pine trees and olive<br />
groves, surrounded by the peaks of the High<br />
Atlas Mountains and near the Toubkal National<br />
Park. Domaine Malika offers seven modern<br />
rooms and suites, all boasting a beautiful decor<br />
and a warm atmosphere. Art deco is very much<br />
the theme throughout, contrasting beautifully<br />
with the extensive grounds and stunning<br />
scenery. The hotel offers a full range of spa<br />
treatments including a hammam, body wraps<br />
and various massages.<br />
Kasbah Bab Ourika, High Atlas
Young Berber girl, High Atlas<br />
Kasbah Du Toubkal, High Atlas<br />
Toubkal Lodge, High Atlas<br />
KASBAH DU TOUBKAL,<br />
HIGH ATLAS<br />
Located at the base of Jebel Toubkal, this remote<br />
hotel offers the perfect base for exploring the<br />
Atlas Mountains and getting to grips with Berber<br />
culture. The converted kasbah is built entirely<br />
along traditional lines, with plaster walls, wooden<br />
ceilings and simple, local decoration. There is a<br />
hammam for unwinding after a day in the<br />
mountains, and the roof terrace is perfect for a<br />
quiet mint tea or a welcome tajine as you bask in<br />
the inspiring scenery. As well as guided walks into<br />
the surrounding mountains, you can also visit<br />
nearby villages and hamlets that are home to<br />
many of the staff. As part of their sustainable<br />
tourism policy the Kasbah sets aside five per cent<br />
of all proceeds for local community projects.<br />
TOUBKAL LODGE, HIGH ATLAS<br />
The Kasbah du Toubkal’s trekking lodge allows<br />
guests to stay in the spectacular heart of the<br />
mountains without having to compromise on the<br />
standard of accommodation. The three en suite<br />
rooms have traditional wooden ceilings, carved<br />
doors and fossil marble in the bathrooms.<br />
Warmth is provided by solar powered underfloor<br />
heating and a wood burning stove in the lounge<br />
area, where picture windows lead out onto a<br />
terrace with spectacular views of the valley and<br />
villages below. The lodge is a fascinating day trek<br />
from the Kasbah du Toubkal.<br />
Walking in the Atlas<br />
With the spectacular scenery of the High<br />
Atlas, walking and trekking are popular<br />
options and can be easily arranged. Trips can<br />
range from a few hours of self guided<br />
rambling in the foothills, to full day treks.<br />
You can even undertake a longer trek lasting<br />
several days, where simple, remote lodges<br />
provide a soothing respite at the end of a<br />
tiring day. The ascent of Mount Toubkal is a<br />
favourite, requiring no technical expertise but<br />
a good level of fitness and commitment.<br />
Wherever you stay in the mountains, guided<br />
treks can be arranged directly with your<br />
hotel, or you can follow one of many well<br />
marked trails. Alternatively, your specialist can<br />
help you to plan a specific trek in advance.<br />
Man with donkey, High Atlas<br />
Trekking in the High Atlas<br />
Part of the appeal of walking in this part of<br />
the world is the chance to meet the local<br />
Berber people, who may invite you into their<br />
homes for some mint tea and a chat. For<br />
one of the highest mountain ranges on the<br />
continent, you will find the High Atlas to be<br />
surprisingly populated and accessible, but this<br />
is all part of the charm, with Berber villages<br />
perched on high peaks, framed by snowcapped<br />
Alpine summits.<br />
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Fishing boats in Essaouira harbour<br />
The easygoing nature of the town, the dramatic<br />
ramparts and the excellent windsurfing have for<br />
many years attracted artists and bohemians alike,<br />
creating a cosmopolitan atmosphere quite<br />
different to the rest of the country.<br />
Riad Watier, Essaouira<br />
Essaouira<br />
On Morocco’s western Atlantic seaboard,<br />
Essaouira is one of the most picturesque towns<br />
in the country. In 1760, the Sultan Sidi<br />
Mohammed had a captive Frenchman design the<br />
town. He also promoted trade, making it a<br />
wealthy commercial centre. The fortifications that<br />
enclose the city shelter a charming, atmospheric<br />
and car-free town. Fresh fish arrive at the port<br />
via a fleet of small boats, and an attractive beach<br />
stretches off to the south, although Essaouira is<br />
anything but a conventional beach destination.<br />
66<br />
RIAD WATIER, ESSAOUIRA<br />
Riad Watier is an intimate place to stay, offering<br />
excellent value for money in the heart of the old<br />
medina. The comfortable rooms are tastefully<br />
decorated with neutral tones of white and beige,<br />
contrasting with bright splashes of colourful<br />
textiles and locally crafted wooden furniture.<br />
Two small roof terraces have views of the<br />
coastline and are perfect for a drink before<br />
dinner. The riad is one of the only hotels in town<br />
to have a full-time cook who prepares traditional<br />
Moroccan and French dishes that are served in its<br />
relaxed dining room.<br />
HEURE BLEUE PALAIS,<br />
ESSAOUIRA<br />
Possibly the most luxurious accommodation in<br />
Essaouira, Heure Bleue Palais is a beautifully<br />
renovated riad with an enviable location in the<br />
medina. It boasts an impressive inner courtyard<br />
and many extra facilities that the smaller riads do<br />
not have, such as a pool, spa, restaurant and bar.<br />
The rooms are decorated in a mixture of<br />
African, Portuguese and British colonial styles,<br />
while the roof terrace has views over the port<br />
and beach.<br />
Villa de L’O, Essaouira<br />
VILLA DE L’O, ESSAOUIRA<br />
The Villa de L’O is an 18th century riad that has<br />
been beautifully restored to a very high standard.<br />
It has an excellent location, just inside the medina<br />
walls and a few metres from the beach and souqs.<br />
The 12 rooms and suites surround a central leafy<br />
courtyard and breakfast area. Each has its own<br />
individual design and theme, from safari to<br />
traditional Moroccan and British colonial. The<br />
attractive rooftop terrace boasts sweeping views<br />
over Essaouira bay, making it a great place to<br />
relax over breakfast during the summer months.<br />
Heure Bleue Palais, Essaouira
Morocco at the movies<br />
Morocco lies at the heart of the North<br />
African film industry, welcoming both<br />
domestic and international productions. It<br />
first came to international attention in the<br />
1950s, when Orson Welles, on his auteurist<br />
sabbatical to Europe and beyond, set most<br />
of his brooding film Othello in Essaouira.<br />
His influence is still apparent today, with a<br />
slightly unflattering monument in Orson<br />
Welles Square, just outside the medina walls.<br />
Essaouira’s evocative setting, with the waves<br />
of the Atlantic crashing onto the ramparts,<br />
has made it a popular location for<br />
blockbusters, including Ridley Scott’s<br />
Kingdom of Heaven.<br />
Essaouira’s ramparts<br />
Ait Benhaddou, setting for Gladiator and other films<br />
Ridley Scott must have enjoyed Morocco, as he<br />
returned to use the atmospheric Ait Benhaddou<br />
for many scenes in Gladiator, the kasbah’s<br />
stunning cinematic location against the snowcapped<br />
backdrop of the Atlas Mountains making<br />
it perfect for the silver screen. Michael Douglas<br />
was also here for Jewel of the Nile, flying a plane<br />
into a specially built archway that remains part of<br />
the kasbah to this day. Close to Ait Benhaddou is<br />
a large film studio at Ouarzazate, which has<br />
drawn the international film industry to the area,<br />
for films like Babel and The Mummy.<br />
Morocco’s desert has been used to represent<br />
other places, including Abu Dhabi in Sex and<br />
the City 2, while the High Atlas Mountains<br />
became Tibet for Martin Scorsese’s Kundun,<br />
with the Kasbah du Toubkal standing in for a<br />
Buddhist monastery.<br />
The use of Morocco for such a wide range<br />
of films merely emphasises the diversity of<br />
stunning scenery there is to enjoy on a tour<br />
of the country.<br />
testament to their former wealth. <strong>Travel</strong>ling this<br />
route and stopping off to explore these grandiose<br />
kasbahs is the perfect introduction to the very<br />
different atmosphere of the south.<br />
Ouarzazate<br />
Telouet valley<br />
Moroccan lady, Essaouira<br />
Atlas film studios, Ouarzazate<br />
Oued Mellah Highway<br />
The Oued Mellah (Salt River) is a former trade<br />
route, running through the High Atlas Mountains<br />
from Marrakesh, providing access to the oases<br />
and valleys of the south. It was traditionally<br />
controlled by the Glaoui tribe: their ksar of<br />
Ait Benhaddou, that guards the southern<br />
approaches, is one of the finest examples of<br />
pisé fortified village construction. The family<br />
kasbah at the northern entrance, Telouet, vividly<br />
conveys the clan’s importance: at its height it was<br />
a huge complex of brilliantly decorated reception<br />
rooms, cavernous kitchens, slave quarters and<br />
extensive subterranean dungeons. After<br />
independence, the Glaoui lost their pre-eminence.<br />
This decline was mirrored at Telouet where<br />
unstable walls have closed off much of the kasbah,<br />
leaving only the reception rooms as an eloquent<br />
Ouarzazate is a city of strategic and historic<br />
importance, which is sadly not well reflected in<br />
the determinedly modern architecture. It is,<br />
however, a great base from which to explore the<br />
castles, valleys and deserts of the south, and<br />
possesses a couple of interesting kasbahs itself.<br />
The restored Taourirt is the best of these, now<br />
standing at the heart of a complex of traditional<br />
housing, craft shops and cafés.<br />
Taourirt Kasbah, Ouarzazate<br />
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Amerhidil Kasbah, Skoura<br />
Skoura<br />
Skoura is typical of the towns found along the<br />
Dades Valley. The modern part of town offers<br />
little to detain the visitor, but the palm plantations<br />
are criss-crossed by paths that run by crumbling<br />
pisé walls up to kasbahs in equally ruinous<br />
condition. The whole effect is quite beautiful and if<br />
you are going to break your journey anywhere in<br />
the Dades Valley, Skoura is a good place to do it.<br />
Berber lady, Dades Valley<br />
The Dades Valley<br />
The Dades Valley is the principle route between<br />
the desert and the ancient trading oases of Tifilalt.<br />
The main High Atlas are to the north, but at<br />
Todra the valley descends to a dramatic gorge<br />
that cuts through the mountains. It’s one of<br />
Morocco’s greatest natural sights, completed by<br />
a gently burbling stream and welcoming café to<br />
rest at. At its eastern end, the valley joins that<br />
of the Ziz River, where towering palms threaten<br />
to spill over the canyon edge into the valley<br />
hundreds of metres below.<br />
68<br />
LES JARDINS DE SKOURA, SKOURA<br />
Les Jardins de Skoura is a picturesque, small hotel<br />
set in a palm plantation about 20 minutes drive<br />
from the centre of town. The eight rooms and<br />
suites are rustic but tastefully decorated in a blend<br />
of French and Moroccan design. The large, shady<br />
gardens have plenty of recliners and cushions to<br />
tempt guests to relax next to the refreshing<br />
swimming pool.<br />
Dar Ahlam, Skoura<br />
Les Jardins de Skoura, Skoura<br />
DAR AHLAM, SKOURA<br />
Dar Ahlam is hidden away in the pretty palmeraie<br />
at the end of a series of winding tracks. Based<br />
around a 20th century converted kasbah, the chic<br />
suites and private villas are set in pretty gardens<br />
with an artfully designed pool. The main kasbah is<br />
a warren of scented corridors, alcoves and grand<br />
archways, very deliberately creating an exclusive,<br />
intimate atmosphere. Each meal is taken privately<br />
in a different location around the kasbah each<br />
evening, and there is a hammam, Jacuzzi and<br />
massage rooms.
The Dades Valley<br />
Woman, Taroudant<br />
Camel herder, Zagora<br />
Ramparts, Taroudant<br />
Zagora<br />
Dating from French colonial times, when the<br />
town was established as an administrative post in<br />
the Sahara, Zagora is a great base from which to<br />
explore the surrounding palm groves and kasbahs.<br />
It is flanked by the Zagora Mountain, from which<br />
the town got its name, and has a languorous<br />
charm all of its own, with dusty streets and a large<br />
Berber market which is held twice a week.<br />
Taroudant<br />
Taroudant is a wonderful little Berber town,<br />
completely encircled by ochre ramparts that<br />
gave rise to its moniker of ‘mini Marrakesh.’<br />
The traditional souqs make it a great place to<br />
pick up souvenirs if you are not keen on the<br />
haggling that is inherent elsewhere. You can take<br />
an excursion to the nearby kasbah of Tioute, but<br />
Taroudant is really about relaxing and getting a<br />
little closer to rural Moroccan life.<br />
Dar Zitoune, Taroudant<br />
Traders in the souq, Taroudant<br />
DAR ZITOUNE, TAROUDANT<br />
Created in traditional style using local materials,<br />
Dar Zitoune is made up of charming bungalowtype<br />
rooms set in four acres of landscaped<br />
grounds with olive, palm and orange trees and a<br />
20 metre pool. Each room is air-conditioned, with<br />
satellite TV, a safe, phone and internet access.<br />
Dar Zitoune also has a small spa with a hammam<br />
and a choice of massage treatments, and the<br />
terrace restaurant prepares a delicious selection<br />
of Moroccan and European meals.<br />
The Anti Atlas<br />
The Anti Atlas is the hub of all commerce in<br />
Morocco’s grocery trade: banana and orange<br />
groves flourish among the extensive vegetable<br />
crops, and this is the only area in which the argan<br />
nut – virtually unique to Morocco – is abundant.<br />
The gentle foothills of the Anti Atlas are dotted<br />
with argan trees, where you might capture the<br />
definitive Moroccan snapshot of a goat in a tree,<br />
although it is likely it will have been tactically<br />
placed there to impress visitors. Here, the granite<br />
rock formations dominate the landscape, palm<br />
plantations line the beds of the valleys and the<br />
distinctive red painted stone houses enhance the<br />
region’s unique character.<br />
Mountain landscape, Anti Atlas<br />
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Dunes, the Erg Chebbi<br />
The Erg Chebbi<br />
The Erg Chebbi are the most accessible dunes of<br />
the Sahara in Morocco. The best times to see<br />
them are at sunrise and sunset, when the<br />
changing light subtly alters their colour with each<br />
passing second, from butter yellow to gold, ochre<br />
and honey. A night camping in the desert is a<br />
special experience; the deep tranquillity seemingly<br />
a million miles away from Morocco’s hectic cities,<br />
and the perfect, clear night skies displaying a vast<br />
curtain of stars. Realistically you will need at least<br />
a three day round trip to fit the desert in, but it<br />
can easily be included in a longer itinerary<br />
between Marrakesh and the northern highlights.<br />
Sahara Desert Camp, the Erg Chebbi<br />
70<br />
SAHARA DESERT CAMP,<br />
THE ERG CHEBBI<br />
Tented accommodation has been an integral part<br />
of desert life for centuries, and this private, eight<br />
tent camp offers a taste of the nomadic Bedouin<br />
life with a touch of extra comfort. The location is<br />
fixed deep in the towering dunes of the Sahara,<br />
and there are permanent staff on hand to serve<br />
meals in the restaurant tent. Accommodation is in<br />
spacious white tents which have en suite facilities<br />
and are colourfully decorated with exotic rugs,<br />
cushions and a comfortable bed. A night here<br />
usually involves a camel ride to a dune-top<br />
lookout to take in the sunset, followed by a<br />
traditional Bedouin dinner back at camp with the<br />
chance to stargaze before retiring for the night.<br />
Bedouin man, the Erg Chebbi<br />
KASBAH DERKAOUA,<br />
THE ERG CHEBBI<br />
Situated close to the small village of Merzouga<br />
on the outskirts of the Erg Chebbi, Kasbah<br />
Derkaoua is ideal for anybody who is not keen<br />
on staying in a tent but would like to experience<br />
the majestic Sahara at close hand. There are 22<br />
relatively simple but characterful rooms, adorned<br />
with traditional rugs in striking Berber colours.<br />
The attractive garden is set amid scattered palms<br />
and olive trees, with tables and chairs tucked<br />
away in every corner and a swimming pool that is<br />
perfect for relaxing in after a hot day in the<br />
desert. The restaurant serves traditional Moroccan<br />
recipes and there are two cosy living rooms<br />
where you can unwind after dinner.
Kasbah on the edge of the Erg Chebbi<br />
Medina gate, Rabat<br />
Royal guard outside the Tour Hassan, Rabat<br />
Casablanca<br />
Thanks in part to the famous film of the same<br />
name, Casablanca features in many people’s<br />
concept of Morocco. In truth, none of the film<br />
was shot here and much of the city is like ports<br />
everywhere: quite crowded, industrial and full of<br />
thirsty sailors. It is a major hub, however, and is<br />
likely to feature somewhere on your itinerary if<br />
taking a longer trip to Morocco. While not<br />
offering many reasons to linger, it is the home of<br />
the Hassan II Mosque, undoubtedly the most<br />
impressive mosque in Morocco. Casablanca is also<br />
well stationed for visits to Rabat and itineraries<br />
exploring the north of the country.<br />
Hassan II Mosque<br />
Built using donations from the public, the Hassan<br />
II Mosque is one of the finest religious buildings<br />
in the Islamic world, surpassed in size only by<br />
the mosque in Mecca, with a prayer hall three<br />
times the size of St Paul’s Cathedral. While the<br />
scale is impressive, the mosque’s location on the<br />
shoreline is even more striking, with the huge<br />
minaret standing out against the crashing waves<br />
of the Atlantic. It was only fully completed in<br />
the 1990s, so it has none of the history<br />
associated with other mosques in the Middle<br />
East, but there is no doubting its aesthetic impact.<br />
For non-Muslims, entry is only permitted in<br />
guided groups.<br />
Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca<br />
Rabat<br />
Morocco’s capital shows two distinct faces: the<br />
modern, French-inspired town, with wide treelined<br />
boulevards, cafés and bistros frequented by<br />
government officials, and historic Rabat, centred<br />
on the 12th century walled medina built by the<br />
Almohad sultans. Here, a forest of columns and<br />
the lower section of a huge Moroccan-style<br />
minaret are all that remain of Sultan Yacoub el<br />
Mansour’s attempt to build a mosque that was<br />
designed to rival that of Samarra in Iraq. Slightly<br />
further from the centre of town is the Chellah –<br />
the tombs of Morocco’s Merenid dynasty – now<br />
a wonderfully atmospheric, crumbling set of ruins.<br />
Rabat’s medina is smaller and more relaxed than<br />
those of Marrakesh and Fez, making it ideal for a<br />
short stay and exploration under your own steam.<br />
Casablanca seafront with the Hassan II Mosque<br />
Villa Mandarine, Rabat<br />
VILLA MANDARINE, RABAT<br />
Lovingly transformed from an old family home<br />
into a charming, sunlit villa surrounded by two<br />
hectares of orange groves, the Villa Mandarine<br />
has been in the same French family for several<br />
generations. It is located about 15 minutes drive<br />
from the centre of Rabat, creating a tranquil<br />
atmosphere that makes it a great place to either<br />
begin or end your travels in Morocco. Most<br />
impressive of all are the extensive gardens, a<br />
wonderful place to wander and relax, with<br />
flowers blooming on every corner and lemon<br />
and grapefruit trees interspersed amongst the<br />
Seville oranges. The colourful, comfortable rooms<br />
have been individually decorated and display<br />
pieces of art that have been carefully chosen to<br />
complement each room’s character. The villa also<br />
has a large pool, a hammam and a gym.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/morocco ● 01993 838 420 ● Morocco 71
Tanneries, Fez<br />
Fez<br />
Periodically the capital of Morocco, the city of<br />
Fez has always occupied a place at the spiritual<br />
and political heart of the country. Founded in the<br />
9th century, many of the early settlers were<br />
Islamic refugees fleeing neighbouring Tunisia.<br />
The medina and souqs are probably the best in<br />
Morocco, beautifully situated on a picturesque<br />
hillside. Assaulting the senses with exotic sounds<br />
and scents, a visit here is an intense experience<br />
unlikely to be rivalled elsewhere.<br />
Riad Fes, Fez<br />
72<br />
LA MAISON BLEUE &<br />
RIAD MAISON BLEUE, FEZ<br />
One of the oldest riad-style properties in Fez,<br />
with a great location in the heart of the medina<br />
opposite the Batha Museum, La Maison Bleue is<br />
still one of the most desirable addresses in the<br />
city. Decoration is an ornate mixture of Moorish<br />
and European influences, with blue mosaic, white<br />
walls and original cedar doors. There is a roof<br />
terrace with excellent views over the medina<br />
and the restaurant is one of the best in Fez.<br />
The sister property, Riad Maison Bleue, is an<br />
equally attractive riad, and also boasts a<br />
hammam and pool.<br />
RIAD FES, FEZ<br />
Residents of Fez, or ‘Fassis’, describe their city in<br />
terms of walls: from the outside you will never<br />
understand her, but once within them you will<br />
get to know and love the real Fez. This sums up<br />
the Riad Fes perfectly as it is located in one of<br />
the narrow alleys of the medina, high blank walls<br />
giving no clue as to what lies inside. Once<br />
through the door, a delightful courtyard at the<br />
heart of the hotel with delicate blue and white<br />
tiles creates a wonderfully tranquil air. The rooms<br />
and suites are appointed with fin de siècle period<br />
pieces that evoke the grand living still expected<br />
by rich Fassi merchants. A recent expansion has<br />
added a discreet gym area and a large pool to<br />
the already excellent facilities.<br />
La Maison Bleue, Fez<br />
RYAD MABROUKA, FEZ<br />
A great value riad with friendly staff, a wonderful<br />
location in the centre of the medina and an<br />
enthusiastic and knowledgeable owner, this is a<br />
memorable introduction to the city. The interior<br />
courtyard has sculpted plasterwork on the<br />
columns, cedar wood doors and typical Moroccan<br />
mosaics, opening onto a garden with roses, citrus<br />
trees and a small pool in one corner. There is a<br />
comfortable roof terrace with sweeping medina<br />
views and the restaurant serves delicious,<br />
traditional Moroccan food.<br />
Ryad Mabrouka, Fez
Gate to medina, Fez<br />
Sweets in the souq, Meknes<br />
Children, Fez<br />
Fez’s artisans<br />
While Marrakesh is Morocco’s most<br />
celebrated destination, many prefer the<br />
more earthy, less polished charms of Fez.<br />
Whereas its southern cousin has been<br />
shrewdly manoeuvred towards tourism for<br />
decades, Fez still feels like a working city,<br />
with craftsmen doing the same daily tasks<br />
that have been passed down through<br />
their families for generations. Their locallyproduced<br />
wares are then sold on in a<br />
bustling warren of specialist souqs.<br />
There are a huge range of crafts represented<br />
in distinct areas of the medina, including<br />
carved wood, embroidery, henna painting,<br />
calligraphy, ceramics and copper. Wander the<br />
maze of souqs and you are likely to take<br />
home some great souvenirs. The stalls don’t<br />
Mosaic craftsmen, Fez<br />
White storks, Voloubilis<br />
Leather shoes for sale, Fez<br />
seem to suffer from being situated amid a<br />
dozen competitors selling virtually identical<br />
spoils. Whichever craft you happen upon,<br />
you will quickly be able to identify the<br />
particular sights, sounds and especially smells<br />
that are unique to that area.<br />
Fez is best known for the production of<br />
leather goods at the iconic tanneries that<br />
feature on virtually any visual depiction of<br />
the city. A visit to the tanneries in the Souq<br />
Dabbhagin, next to the dyers' quarter, is a<br />
sensory experience of colours, bustle and<br />
stench. Now a UNESCO World Heritage<br />
Site, it is fascinating to visit the area and<br />
watch the tanners at work, balancing<br />
between vats of vibrant dyes before plunging<br />
into the one they need, while spectators<br />
ardently snap photos from the sidelines.<br />
Meknes and Voloubilis<br />
Only a short distance west of Fez, the fortunes<br />
of the small market town of Meknes took a<br />
dramatic turn when Sultan Moulay Ismail<br />
assumed power in the 17th century and chose<br />
it for his royal court. Huge palaces, harems and<br />
miles of walls pierced with arched gates were<br />
constructed. After his death, the city’s influence<br />
seeped away, and earthquakes and rain reduced<br />
his massive works to subsiding mud-bricks: only<br />
the monumental gates hint at its former glory.<br />
A different period of history awaits at nearby<br />
Voloubilis, one of the Roman Empire’s key<br />
Moroccan settlements. Among the remains of<br />
buildings and streets, the colourful and vivid<br />
mosaic floors are the real highlights.<br />
Doorway, Meknes<br />
www.audleytravel.com/morocco ● 01993 838 420 ● Morocco 73
Chefchaouen and the Rif Mountains<br />
The Rif Mountains<br />
Separating the bulk of Morocco from the<br />
Mediterranean, the northern Rif Mountains have<br />
a long and turbulent history. Few rulers have<br />
ever completely subdued the indigenous tribes,<br />
and some areas are still off limits due to the<br />
widespread cultivation of marijuana. Immediately<br />
north of Fez, the scenery is a patchwork of<br />
agricultural greens, becoming more classically<br />
mountainous further north and east, where the<br />
snow-capped Jebel Tidighine overlooks the<br />
rolling peaks to one side and the Mediterranean<br />
coast to the other. One of the wildest, least<br />
modernised areas of Morocco, the Rif is<br />
nevertheless an excellent, off-the-beaten-track<br />
destination for a bit of trekking and to escape<br />
the crowds of Marrakesh.<br />
Pottery from the Rif Mountains<br />
74<br />
Street in Chefchaouen<br />
Chefchaouen<br />
Chefchaouen is undoubtedly one of the prettiest<br />
towns in Morocco, with a somewhat misleading<br />
reputation as a hippy outpost. While there is<br />
undeniably a bohemian feel, the web of narrow<br />
alleys, paths and stairways winding around tightly<br />
packed, blue and white buildings provides a<br />
wonderful setting against the rugged backdrop<br />
of the mountains. With only a small medina,<br />
Chefchaouen is the perfect place to spend a<br />
couple of days exploring at your own relaxed<br />
pace. While accommodation choices are perhaps<br />
not as luxurious as elsewhere, there is a distinct<br />
small town charm that refuses to fade.<br />
CASA HASSAN, CHEFCHAOUEN<br />
Based in an unbeatable central location in the<br />
medina and renowned for its high quality local<br />
food, the Casa Hassan is Chefchaouen’s bestknown<br />
place to stay. The property reflects a<br />
combination of traditional Moroccan design with<br />
a touch of Andalusian influence that is relatively<br />
common in the north of the country. The eight<br />
rooms are simple but comfortable and stylishly<br />
designed, and some boast fireplaces for the<br />
cooler winter months. There is a roof terrace<br />
with great views over the medina and<br />
surrounding countryside, and a selection of cosy<br />
communal sitting areas.<br />
Casa Hassan, Chefchaouen
Cap Spartel Lighthouse, Tangier<br />
Musicians, Tangier<br />
Fishing boats, Tangier<br />
Tangier<br />
For many years, Tangier enjoyed the status of<br />
an International Free Zone, free of taxes and<br />
duty and jointly administered by the French,<br />
Spanish and British. This helped to create a<br />
cosmopolitan and somewhat raffish society.<br />
Something of this spirit lingers and life in Tangier<br />
has more of an edge than in other Moroccan<br />
cities. There is an attractive old medina which<br />
blends Islamic and Berber influences. There are<br />
also some wonderful examples of art deco<br />
architecture, dating back to the louche days of<br />
the 20th century. A couple of days exploring the<br />
medina and surrounding highlights, interrupted<br />
by some relaxation time at the beach, is the<br />
perfect way to experience Tangier.<br />
Doorway, Asilah<br />
Asilah<br />
Asilah is a sleepy town on the Atlantic Coast that<br />
is slowly developing a reputation akin to Essaouira<br />
in the 1990s. It boasts a small, beautifully<br />
preserved medina with a picturesque location<br />
right by the shoreline. The town itself has a<br />
Spanish feel, with lovely whitewashed buildings<br />
and public artwork on the walls of many of the<br />
narrow alleyways. There are some beaches in the<br />
vicinity, which are not ideal for sunbathing but<br />
excellent for a relaxing stroll. Easy to navigate<br />
and soothingly low key, Asilah is perfect for a<br />
day of relaxation between Morocco’s better<br />
known destinations.<br />
Man in traditional burnous, Tangier<br />
El Minzah, Tangier<br />
EL MINZAH, TANGIER<br />
The grand old dame of Tangier’s accommodation,<br />
El Minzah was built in the 1930s and has opened<br />
its doors to a parade of the great and the good<br />
throughout the city’s decadent history. Minutes<br />
from the medina and the main square of the city,<br />
the Grand Socco, the hotel is a little faded around<br />
the edges but retains an air of grandeur and<br />
glamour. There is a large pool and other facilities<br />
that you would expect from a top hotel, while<br />
most of the 140 rooms offer attractive sea and<br />
medina views.<br />
City walls, Asilah<br />
www.audleytravel.com/morocco ● 01993 838 420 ● Morocco 75
MOROCCO<br />
Essaouira<br />
Marrakesh<br />
High Atlas<br />
Mountains<br />
Man in Taroudant souk<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Morocco specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 420<br />
Getting around<br />
Morocco has an excellent road network covering<br />
most of the country. While some drives can be<br />
long, the scenery is often stunning, and covers a<br />
wide variety of terrain – from desert to mountain<br />
to coast. Most of your journeys will be in private<br />
air-conditioned vehicles with a driver. There is a<br />
limited train network between a few cities, but for<br />
most journeys road is the only option.<br />
Harbour, Essaouira<br />
76<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Morocco can be roughly divided into three<br />
climatic regions: the coast, the desert areas of the<br />
south, and the Rif and Atlas mountain ranges of<br />
the higher interior. Throughout the country, the<br />
temperature varies considerably over the course<br />
of a day and even on a summer evening a<br />
sweater may be necessary. In winter,<br />
temperatures can fall low enough for a<br />
widespread frost with snow on the mountains.<br />
Rain does fall during the winter, although not<br />
often and seldom in large amounts. The coastal<br />
regions can be visited year round: in the winter<br />
they are pleasantly mild, and bask in temperatures<br />
of mid-twenties Celsius in the summer. The high<br />
interior can also be visited year round, although it<br />
does get cold in winter, with averages in the<br />
high-teens Celsius. The southern desert areas<br />
experience a similar climate to the high interior,<br />
although summer temperatures are hot, with the<br />
average hovering around 40C.<br />
Time difference: Same as GMT, with<br />
seasonal differences<br />
Flight time from UK: 3.5 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Morocco on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Marrakesh, Mountains<br />
& Coast<br />
A great introduction to the country, this ten<br />
day trip lets you experience a diverse range of<br />
scenery and culture. Starting in vibrant Marrakesh,<br />
you move on to the pretty seaside town of<br />
Essaouira before finishing with time in the<br />
stunning High Atlas.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Fly from the UK to Marrakesh. Spend<br />
the night at a riad in the medina.<br />
A full day guided city tour of<br />
Marrakesh, ending as the sun sets<br />
over the magical Djema El Fna.<br />
A day at leisure to further explore<br />
the city, perhaps moving into the<br />
New Town to visit the tranquil<br />
Majorelle Gardens.<br />
Head west with a short drive to<br />
Essaouira on the Atlantic coast.<br />
A day to explore bohemian<br />
Essaouira.<br />
Another day to enjoy Essaouira’s<br />
picturesque medina and great<br />
seafood.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to the strikingly different<br />
scenery of the High Atlas Mountains.<br />
Take a guided hike or walk one of<br />
the many marked trails in the<br />
mountains.<br />
Enjoy another walk or absorb the<br />
stunning views from your hotel.<br />
Fly back to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
This itinerary could be extended by moving south<br />
and spending a night in the desert. Alternatively,<br />
if you are feeling energetic, spend longer in the<br />
High Atlas Mountains and trek to the summit of<br />
Mount Toubkal.
Suggested itineraries<br />
Rabat<br />
Fez<br />
Casablanca<br />
MOROCCO<br />
Meknes &<br />
Voloubilis<br />
Casablanca<br />
MOROCCO<br />
Asilah<br />
Tangier<br />
Chefchaouen<br />
Essaouira<br />
Marrakesh<br />
High Atlas<br />
Mountains<br />
Skoura<br />
The Erg<br />
Chebbi<br />
Marrakesh<br />
Ouarzazate<br />
Skoura<br />
The Erg<br />
Chebbi<br />
Rabat<br />
Casablanca<br />
Fez<br />
Meknes &<br />
Voloubilis<br />
Zagora<br />
Grand Tour of Morocco<br />
A grand tour exploring the main highlights of<br />
Morocco, including the imperial cities of Marrakesh,<br />
Fez, Meknes and Rabat, as well as the Sahara, the<br />
High Atlas Mountains and the coast.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Fly from the UK to Casablanca and<br />
spend the night at a city hotel.<br />
Visit the Hassan II Mosque before a<br />
short drive to Rabat.<br />
Stop at Meknes and Voloublis<br />
en route to your riad in the medina<br />
of Fez.<br />
A guided, full day city tour of<br />
timeless Fez.<br />
A long, scenic drive south to the<br />
desert and a night in a tent amongst<br />
the dunes of the Erg Chebbi.<br />
Journey the ‘route of 1,000 kasbahs’<br />
to Skoura, stopping off at the rugged<br />
Todra Gorge.<br />
A day at leisure to relax in the palm<br />
groves of Skoura.<br />
Drive the stunning Tizi-n-Tichka pass<br />
into the Atlas Mountains.<br />
Try a guided mountain trek or hike<br />
under your own steam from your<br />
accommodation.<br />
Head for the coast, to Essaouira’s<br />
medina perched on the Atlantic.<br />
The Desert Circuit<br />
This shorter eight day trip combines a stay in<br />
vibrant Marrakesh with the desert scenery in the<br />
south of the country.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Fly from the UK to Marrakesh.<br />
A full day guided city tour of<br />
bustling Marrakesh.<br />
Drive south via the enchanting<br />
kasbah of Telouet.<br />
Head for the desert via Todra Gorge<br />
and enjoy a night under the stars in<br />
the Erg Chebbi.<br />
Watch the sun rise over the desert<br />
before heading southwest to Zagora.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> along the Draa Valley back<br />
to Skoura.<br />
Take in the tranquil palm groves and<br />
crumbling kasbahs in the area.<br />
Fly from Ouarzazate to Casablanca<br />
and on to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
Spend time trekking in the High Atlas Mountains<br />
or relax in the coastal town of Essaouira.<br />
Northern Explorer<br />
Discover the highlights of northern Morocco<br />
including the cities of Fez, Rabat and Meknes;<br />
the Roman ruins at Voloubilis and Lixus; relaxed<br />
medinas in Asilah and Chafchaouen; and coastal<br />
history in Tangiers.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Fly from the UK to Casablanca and<br />
spend a night in the city.<br />
Visit the impressive Hassan II<br />
Mosque, imperial Meknes and Roman<br />
Voloubilis en route to Fez.<br />
Discover Fez with the help of a<br />
private guide.<br />
Another day to explore the medina<br />
of Fez.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> north to the picturesque,<br />
laid-back town of Chefchaouen.<br />
A day to explore the charming<br />
medina and verdant countryside<br />
around Chefchaouen.<br />
Head to Tangier for some time on<br />
Morocco’s northern coastline.<br />
Enjoy a guided tour of Tangier’s<br />
medina and other historic sights,<br />
before an afternoon roaming<br />
the beach.<br />
A short journey to Asilah’s relatively<br />
undiscovered and very pretty medina.<br />
Drive south along the coast to Rabat.<br />
Day 11<br />
A day to wander the medina and<br />
stroll along the beach.<br />
Day 11<br />
Spend a day exploring the quaint<br />
medina of Morocco’s capital.<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Day 15<br />
Drive inland to Marrakesh.<br />
A full day guided tour of the souqs,<br />
squares, palaces and gardens of<br />
Marrakesh.<br />
One more day at leisure in<br />
Marrakesh.<br />
Fly back to the UK.<br />
Day 12<br />
Return to Casablanca for a flight to<br />
the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
You could add a few days in vibrant Marrakesh,<br />
or take in the mountain scenery of the High Atlas.<br />
Grand Mosque, Chefchaouen<br />
Bedouin man in the Erg Chebbi<br />
www.audleytravel.com/morocco ● 01993 838 420 ● Morocco 77
Tunisia<br />
Tunisia’s reputation as just a<br />
beach destination is slowly<br />
changing, as attention turns to the<br />
cultural aspects of this small but<br />
fascinating Mediterranean country.<br />
Evidence of Tunisia’s chequered<br />
history can be found in the ruins of<br />
Carthage, the remains of its Roman<br />
past and in its Arab medinas and<br />
colonial towns. The mixture of<br />
influences has helped to shape modern<br />
Tunisia, which continues to take<br />
inspiration from both east and west.<br />
Aside from its historical legacy, there<br />
are enchanting landscapes to explore;<br />
from the mountains in the northwest,<br />
to the green pastures of the central<br />
Tell region and on to the dry, sandy<br />
expanses of the Sahara in the south.<br />
Proud of their history and culture,<br />
Tunisians are warm and welcoming<br />
hosts, eager to show off their country.<br />
Two men relaxing, Tunis<br />
3<br />
1 The medina of Tunis<br />
The UNESCO-protected<br />
medina has winding alleyways,<br />
mosques and souqs.<br />
7<br />
6<br />
1 2<br />
5<br />
4<br />
8<br />
2 The Bardo Museum<br />
One of the world’s finest<br />
collections of Roman mosaics,<br />
all housed within a beautiful<br />
former royal palace.<br />
3 Sidi Bou Said<br />
This village on the outskirts of<br />
Tunis has attracted many artists<br />
over the years, drawn by its<br />
picturesque setting overlooking<br />
the Bay of Tunis.<br />
4 El Jem<br />
The best-preserved amphitheatre<br />
of the Roman world.<br />
Mosaic, Bardo Museum<br />
5 Great Mosque of<br />
Kairouan<br />
The oldest mosque in North<br />
Africa, established during the<br />
Arab conquests of the 7th<br />
century AD.<br />
6 Dougga<br />
One of Africa’s great Roman<br />
cities, Dougga’s well-preserved<br />
buildings are enhanced by their<br />
rural location in the depths of<br />
the Tunisian countryside.<br />
7<br />
Tamerza<br />
In the southwest of Tunisia lies<br />
an intriguing landscape of narrow<br />
gorges and abandoned villages.<br />
8<br />
Jerba<br />
Fort of Borj Ghazi Mustapha, Jerba<br />
This small island has a unique<br />
culture that is different from the<br />
rest of the country.<br />
78
Amphitheatre, El Jem<br />
Tunis<br />
Central Tunis has two distinct areas, the<br />
UNESCO-protected Arab medina, and the new<br />
town, which was built during the colonial era on<br />
reclaimed land. Greater Tunis stretches east,<br />
across Lac de Tunis to the coastal suburbs of<br />
Carthage, Sidi Bou Said and Gammarth. The<br />
medina hides mosques, hammams and souqs, as<br />
well as beautifully restored houses, some of which<br />
have been converted into hotels and restaurants.<br />
The new town centres around Avenue Habib<br />
Bourguiba, a wide boulevard dotted with cafés.<br />
The architecture of this area is influenced by<br />
French styles, with many buildings showing hints<br />
of art deco design. Close to the centre is the<br />
Bardo Museum, which houses some of the<br />
best examples of Roman mosaics. The beauty<br />
of the mosaics is matched by their surroundings,<br />
the Bardo being a former royal palace with<br />
large vaulted rooms, stained glass and carved<br />
stucco ceilings.<br />
Sidi Bou Said<br />
Sidi Bou Said is a small village lying on the<br />
outskirts of the capital, overlooking the Bay of<br />
Tunis with unparalleled views to the Cap Bon<br />
Peninsula and Jebel Bou Kournine, a distinctive<br />
double-peaked mountain. Its whitewashed<br />
buildings with their blue windows and doors have<br />
been attracting artists for years and the cobbled<br />
streets offer respite from the bustle of central<br />
Tunis. The cafés dotted around the village are<br />
idyllic settings for sampling Tunisian mint tea,<br />
traditionally served with pine nuts.<br />
DAR SAID, SIDI BOU SAID<br />
Dar Said is a small family owned hotel at the<br />
heart of Sidi Bou Said. The house was originally<br />
a residence and dates back to the mid 19th<br />
century. Converted into a hotel in the 1990s, it<br />
has just 24 bedrooms and retains a quiet and<br />
intimate atmosphere. Featuring a small hammam<br />
and pool, with a terrace looking out on to the<br />
Mediterranean. Dar Zarrouk Restaurant is situated<br />
just opposite the hotel and serves delicious<br />
Tunisian and French cuisine.<br />
Kairouan<br />
Kairouan is the most sacred Islamic city in Tunisia<br />
and one of the holiest of Islam. Invading Arab<br />
forces arrived here in the 7th century AD and<br />
established the city, building the first mosque in<br />
North Africa. The Great Mosque still stands<br />
(though it has been rebuilt several times) and its<br />
simple architectural structure makes it a place of<br />
great serenity and an essential component of any<br />
visit to the town. The medina of Kairouan also<br />
has a number of interesting mosques and souqs<br />
and is known for its carpet manufacturing, making<br />
it the best place to purchase carpets in Tunisia.<br />
Great Mosque of Kairouan<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> in Tunisia<br />
Tunisia is within easy reach of the UK, with<br />
scheduled flights from both Heathrow and<br />
Gatwick. We usually organise trips with a car<br />
and driver, with guides available if you wish<br />
to explore some of the sites in a bit more<br />
detail. If you want more flexibility, then there<br />
is also the option of discovering the country<br />
independently on a self-drive tour. Some of<br />
the sites around Tunis can be very busy, but<br />
we can advise you on ways to escape the<br />
crowds and discover areas which most<br />
visitors never reach. While many operators<br />
offer beach holidays in places like Sousse<br />
and Hammamet, and include just a few<br />
excursions, Tunisia has some amazing sights<br />
and to experience these we recommend a<br />
more comprehensive tour of the country.<br />
Accommodation<br />
Tunisia has started to follow the Moroccan<br />
trend for converting old houses into hotels.<br />
These are atmospheric places to stay and can<br />
be found in Tunis, Sidi Bou Said and Jerba.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong>lers interested in experiencing rural<br />
Tunisian life may wish to consider a<br />
guesthouse near El Kef in the heart of the<br />
Tell region, or an olive farm located between<br />
Tunis and Kairouan. Elsewhere, there are<br />
international hotels and resorts available,<br />
most of which have excellent spa facilities<br />
along with swimming pools and beaches.<br />
Sidi Bou Said<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Tunisia, please<br />
see page 81.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Tunisia<br />
specialists 01993 838 445<br />
Tunisia 79
Ksar Ouled Soltane, near Tataouine<br />
Archaeological sites<br />
The ruins of Tunisia date from the Megalithic<br />
through to the Roman and Byzantine eras.<br />
With hundreds of registered archaeological<br />
sites, it would be impossible to visit them all<br />
in a short trip. Here we have highlighted four<br />
of the most important ones.<br />
Carthage<br />
The ruins of Carthage are northeast of<br />
central Tunis. Most of the sites were either<br />
destroyed or incorporated into later<br />
Roman sites. The Roman political slogan<br />
‘Carthago delenda est’ (Carthage must be<br />
destroyed) was carried out with ferocity by<br />
the invading legionaries.<br />
Carthage and the Bay of Tunis<br />
The Capitol, Dougga<br />
Bulla Regia<br />
Located in the west of Tunisia, Bulla Regia is<br />
known for its underground theatre and<br />
mosaics. Famed at the time for its loose<br />
morality, St Augustine passed through in the<br />
4th century, exhorting its inhabitants to<br />
behave in a more decorous manner.<br />
Dougga<br />
Dougga overlooks picturesque rolling<br />
countryside and olive tree orchards. The site<br />
features a range of ruins, from the monumental<br />
Capitol and Libyo-Punic Mausoleum to the<br />
more everyday bathhouses and latrines.<br />
El Jem<br />
The amphitheatre at El Jem towers over the<br />
surrounding area and can be seen from miles<br />
away when travelling to the site along the<br />
Roman roads.<br />
The southwest<br />
The south of Tunisia feels distinctly different from<br />
the northern parts of the country, in part due to<br />
its desert climate. In the southwest is the village<br />
of Tamerza, surrounded by a series of spectacular<br />
gorges and waterfalls. On the edge of Tunisia’s<br />
largest salt flat, the Chott El Jerid, lies the desert<br />
oasis of Tozeur. Birthplace of Tunisia’s literary<br />
hero, Abou Kacem El-Chebbi, Tozeur is an<br />
interesting place to visit for many reasons, not<br />
least to taste the famous dates known as ‘deglet<br />
en-nour’ (fingers of light). The town’s buildings<br />
are constructed using mud brick, laid in extremely<br />
complex patterns, which give even the most<br />
ordinary street an ornate façade.<br />
The southeast<br />
The southeast is the gateway to the Sahara, with<br />
visits to the rolling dunes possible around Ksar<br />
Ghilane, a remote desert outpost. Further east<br />
are a series of Berber settlements which feature<br />
architectural feats of engineering, including the<br />
distinctive ksours (fortified granaries) around<br />
Tataouine, and troglodyte dwellings, which are<br />
found several metres below ground. These are<br />
designed to protect their inhabitants from the<br />
effects of the Saharan sun. The village of Matmata<br />
has the best examples of these dwellings, some<br />
of which are still in use and have been chosen as<br />
film locations by Hollywood directors.<br />
80
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
Lady weaving, Jerba<br />
Abandoned village of Tamerza<br />
Jerba<br />
The island of Jerba is thought to be the<br />
‘Land of the Lotus Eaters’ in the legendary<br />
stories of Ulysses and is a charming, laid-back<br />
place to visit, especially at the end of a tour<br />
of Tunisia. The division from the mainland is<br />
apparent in the distinct character and way of<br />
life of the Jerban people. Bicycles and mopeds<br />
are still the preferred modes of transport, so<br />
a peaceful atmosphere reigns. Jerba has<br />
some interesting Islamic architecture, as well<br />
El Ghriba Synagogue, which is testament to the<br />
long history of the island’s Jewish population.<br />
The itinerary shown is designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and is a route that<br />
works particularly well. We can use this as a basis<br />
to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Tunisia specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 445<br />
Getting around<br />
Distances in Tunisia are relatively short so road<br />
travel is entirely feasible, this can be with a driver<br />
or you can choose to self-drive. Roads between<br />
towns are in good condition, with one motorway<br />
now linking the north and south of the country.<br />
Cities can be very busy, but once out in the rural<br />
areas, the roads are much quieter.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
~ ~ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~ ~<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Tunisia’s climate is ruled by its proximity to the<br />
Mediterranean making the winter months (from<br />
November to early March), cool, grey and quite<br />
damp, and therefore not particularly good times<br />
to travel. The best time to go is the late spring,<br />
when the temperatures are warm and the spring<br />
flowers are in bloom around the archaeological<br />
sites. The south should be avoided in high<br />
summer because it’s too hot, but this is a good<br />
time to visit the north as the archaeological sites<br />
are even quieter than usual.<br />
Time difference: GMT+1 hour<br />
Flight time from UK: 3 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline<br />
prices for your trip to Tunisia on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Roman Tunisia<br />
This itinerary includes visits to the major Roman<br />
sites in the north of Tunisia, giving a real insight<br />
into the classical history of the country and the<br />
way of life in typical Roman cities such as Dougga.<br />
In addition, there is time to explore the Arab<br />
medinas of Tunis, El Kef and Kairouan and enjoy<br />
Tunisia’s coastline at Sidi Bou Said and Carthage.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Bulla Regia<br />
El Kef<br />
Dougga<br />
Maktar<br />
Sidi Bou Said<br />
Kairouan<br />
Carthage<br />
Tunis<br />
Thuburbo Majus<br />
El Jem<br />
Fly from the UK to Tunis, where you<br />
stay for two nights.<br />
Morning visit to the Bardo Museum<br />
followed by an afternoon guided tour<br />
of Tunis medina.<br />
Drive to the Roman sites of Bulla<br />
Regia and Dougga en route to El Kef<br />
where you will spend the night.<br />
Head south from El Kef to Kairouan,<br />
stopping to visit the Roman site of<br />
Maktar on your way.<br />
Explore Kairouan in the morning and<br />
then travel to El Jem to visit the<br />
amphitheatre and mosaics.<br />
Head north to Sidi Bou Said with the<br />
chance to visit the ruins of Thuburbo<br />
Majus on the way.<br />
Explore the Punic and Roman ruins<br />
of Carthage in the morning, with the<br />
rest of the day free to spend in Sidi<br />
Bou Said.<br />
Fly from Tunis to the UK, arriving<br />
back the same day.<br />
Stay longer<br />
The itinerary could be extended by exploring<br />
the south; visiting Tamerza, Tozeur, Ksar Ghilane<br />
or Jerba, forming a grand tour of Tunisia and<br />
giving a comprehensive insight into Tunisia’s<br />
history and culture.<br />
Jerban women wearing traditional dress<br />
Er-Riadh Mosque, Jerba<br />
Traditional door, Sidi Bou Said<br />
www.audleytravel.com/tunisia ● 01993 838 445 ● Tunisia 81
Libya<br />
Libya is a vast country which, in<br />
recent years, has experienced an<br />
interesting and controversial political<br />
history. With abundant archaeological<br />
sites and beautiful natural landscapes,<br />
it has a lot to offer the more<br />
adventurous visitor, while a range<br />
of historical influences has created a<br />
modern day cultural melting pot.<br />
In classical times, the Phoenicians,<br />
Greeks and Romans all left their mark<br />
at sites such as Cyrene and Leptis<br />
Magna along the north coast. Berber<br />
populations dominate in the west of<br />
the country, with their own customs<br />
and architecture. In the south, you will<br />
find traditional desert cultures and a<br />
warm welcome from the tribal Tuareg<br />
people, many of whom count the<br />
Akakus Mountains and the Ubari<br />
Sand Sea as their home.<br />
Leptis Magna<br />
4<br />
Ghadames<br />
An extraordinary desert town,<br />
Ghadames is quite unlike any<br />
other settlement in Africa.<br />
5<br />
The Ubari Sand Sea<br />
4<br />
5<br />
6<br />
1<br />
2<br />
3<br />
Libyan men<br />
1 Tripoli medina<br />
The Tripoli medina exudes a<br />
distinctive charm and is a place<br />
where locals go about their<br />
daily lives.<br />
2 Leptis Magna<br />
Libya’s best known Roman site,<br />
the magnificent ruins of Leptis<br />
Magna have an awe-inspiring<br />
location beside the<br />
Mediterranean.<br />
Towering dunes form the<br />
Ubari Sand Sea in the south<br />
of Libya, but even more<br />
astounding are the deep, salty<br />
lakes, perfect for a swim after<br />
a desert expedition.<br />
6 Ancient rock art in<br />
the Akakus Mountains<br />
Weird and wonderful<br />
geographical features aside,<br />
the Akakus Mountains conceal<br />
some of the greatest examples<br />
of ancient rock art to be found<br />
in the world.<br />
3<br />
Cyrene<br />
Sited on a hillside overlooking a<br />
plain that stretches all the way<br />
to the Mediterranean, Cyrene is<br />
still only partially excavated. It is<br />
a delight for historians and<br />
photographers alike.<br />
Desert landscape, Akakus Mountains<br />
82
Libyan men outside a Tripoli mosque<br />
Tripoli and surrounds<br />
Tripoli is, like many North African cities, divided<br />
into two distinct areas, the traditional Arab<br />
medina and the colonial era new town. The<br />
medina is unlike many others across the region in<br />
that it remains a place for locals to go about their<br />
daily lives; living, trading and working within its<br />
walls. The new town has wonderful colonial<br />
buildings, many of which have been converted<br />
over the years: the cathedral became a mosque,<br />
and the castle and palace now house the National<br />
Museum and the Libya Museum. Outside Tripoli<br />
are the two major Roman sites of the region,<br />
Leptis Magna and Sabratha. Leptis Magna was the<br />
birthplace of the Roman Empire’s only African<br />
emperor and its importance is clear to see in the<br />
monumental arches and the grandeur of its public<br />
buildings. Sabratha is sometimes overlooked and<br />
like Leptis Magna it lies next to the Mediterranean<br />
Sea. Its theatre is of particular interest, having<br />
been fully restored to its former glory.<br />
Theatre, Sabratha<br />
Cyrenaica<br />
The east of Libya is known as Cyrenaica, taken<br />
from the name of its most important<br />
archaeological site, Cyrene. The region is famed<br />
for its long history of rebellion and its Green<br />
Mountains, which are covered in pine trees.<br />
It was here that the independence leader, Omar<br />
Al-Mukhtar, hid during the revolt against the<br />
Italians. There is a wealth of archaeological ruins<br />
and even small sites such as Tocra and Ptolemais<br />
reveal plenty about the classical history of the<br />
area. Qasr Libya, the ruins of a Roman villa, has<br />
some of the country’s most impressive mosaics<br />
and Slontah is an unusual pre-Islamic temple.<br />
A short detour to see this tiny site is essential.<br />
Ghadames<br />
Ghadames is a gateway to the Sahara, its location<br />
on Libya’s borders explained by its history as a<br />
staging post on Africa’s trading routes. This<br />
isolated position meant that Ghadames developed<br />
a unique culture. The old walled part of the town<br />
has been declared a World Heritage Site by<br />
UNESCO, and here you will find a tranquil<br />
ancient city made of mud, lime and palm tree<br />
trunks. A network of covered alleyways and<br />
attached roofs allows passage from one house<br />
to the next.<br />
Street in Ghadames<br />
The Fezzan<br />
Southwest Libya was known as the Fezzan during<br />
the colonial period and includes the sweeping<br />
desert landscapes of the Akakus Mountains and<br />
the Ubari Sand Sea. These areas are best<br />
explored on a desert expedition, travelling in<br />
4x4 vehicles with experienced guides and drivers.<br />
You will camp in the wild, miles from the nearest<br />
villages. At least five days are required to make<br />
the most of this trip, so that you can see the best<br />
examples of the ancient rock art found in the<br />
Akakus. You can also enjoy the unique silence in<br />
the desert and the exhilarating drives over the<br />
Ubari dunes, leaving just enough time for a swim<br />
at one of the desert lakes. Though not without<br />
their hardships, these desert expeditions reward<br />
travellers with spectacular vistas.<br />
Ubari Sand Sea<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> in Libya<br />
Libya is just a short flight from Europe, but<br />
it is a large country so it will take at least<br />
twelve days to see the main archaeological<br />
sites as well as Tripoli and Ghadames. Even<br />
before the revolution, tourism infrastructure<br />
was in its infancy, so it is best to travel to<br />
Libya with an adventurous spirit. The<br />
standard of accommodation and service may<br />
be well below what would be expected in<br />
other countries in the region, and visitors<br />
should not be surprised if their internal flights<br />
or accommodation are changed with little<br />
notice. As long as you bear all these points in<br />
mind, you will be rewarded by a warm<br />
welcome from the Libyan people, who are<br />
keen to re-engage with the outside world.<br />
For the duration of the trip, you will be<br />
accompanied by a Libyan guide and driver<br />
and if you do venture into the desert then<br />
you will be travelling in 4x4 vehicles,<br />
accompanied by experienced drivers, guides<br />
and a cook.<br />
Accommodation<br />
Most places in Libya have only one or two<br />
accommodation options, and hotels in places<br />
like Ghadames and Cyrenaica tend to cater<br />
for large groups of visitors and are a little<br />
characterless. The exception to this is Tripoli<br />
where there are a number of five star,<br />
international hotels which welcome visitors<br />
and business people, as well as a characterful<br />
option within the walls of the medina and a<br />
wonderfully welcoming guesthouse. On<br />
desert expeditions, you will be staying in<br />
small tents which are easy to pitch, although<br />
you may wish to spend one night out in the<br />
open for a view of the stars.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Libya, please<br />
see our website.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Libya<br />
specialists 01993 838 435<br />
Libya 83
Iran<br />
Prepare to be surprised. This huge<br />
country, three times the size of France,<br />
contains a bewildering array of world-class<br />
sites, lasting testament to a tumultuous<br />
5,000 year history that has left an indelible<br />
mark on both East and West. The country’s<br />
bounty of historic places is without equal in<br />
the Islamic world. The jewel in the crown is<br />
Esfahan, a beautiful city and shining<br />
example of glorious Islamic architecture and<br />
Persian culture, it has one of the biggest and<br />
most spectacular city squares in the world.<br />
Together with Shiraz and nearby Persepolis,<br />
this triumvirate forms the core of any<br />
journey to the country. Away from these<br />
highlights, there is much else to drink in. In<br />
the northwest the city of Tabriz has been<br />
famous for the manufacture of carpets for a<br />
thousand years. In the far south are the<br />
ancient remains of the Elamite civilisation<br />
at Choqa Zanbil. In the centre are the<br />
picturesque villages of the Zagros<br />
Mountains, giving way to the deserts of<br />
Eastern Iran and the cities of Kerman.<br />
To the east is the city of Mashhad, home to<br />
the mausoleum of Imam Reza, a direct<br />
descendant of the Prophet Mohammed.<br />
84
<strong>Audley</strong> in Iran<br />
7<br />
5<br />
2<br />
6<br />
1<br />
4<br />
3<br />
We feel that Iran is a greatly underrated<br />
destination and much misunderstood. We<br />
have taken the time to go and visit ourselves,<br />
to see what the situation is truly like. Every<br />
one of us who has been has come back<br />
enamoured with the friendliness of the<br />
people, the diversity of the culture and the<br />
sheer unexpectedness of it all. For those<br />
who want to really discover every nook and<br />
cranny, we suggest having a national guide,<br />
who would accompany you throughout your<br />
time in the country. For those who prefer a<br />
little more independence, we can arrange a<br />
driver to accompany you – he or she would<br />
speak enough English to communicate, but<br />
would leave you to discover the sights.<br />
Whichever style of travel you choose –<br />
you can be sure of a memorable visit to<br />
this fascinating country.<br />
Accommodation<br />
4 Yazd<br />
This desert city has winding<br />
lanes and wind towers.<br />
5 Abyaneh<br />
Experience rural Iran in this<br />
picturesque, verdant village.<br />
7 Kashan<br />
A majestic bazaar and some<br />
beautiful Qajar era mansions.<br />
As a result of sanctions, there are none of<br />
the international hotel chains in Iran that are<br />
found in most other countries of the world.<br />
The standards of service and facilities in<br />
Iranian hotels are not what they might be,<br />
however, every place of interest does have<br />
clean, comfortable options. While there are<br />
many reasons to visit Iran, the quality of the<br />
hotels there is not one of them. A few<br />
places, Yazd in particular, do have some<br />
character options which we try to use<br />
whenever possible.<br />
Wind towers, Yazd<br />
1 Esfahan<br />
Iran’s masterpiece, an exquisite<br />
city and one of the most<br />
beautiful in the Islamic world.<br />
6 Tehran<br />
Iran’s capital is difficult to love –<br />
but it has some great museums<br />
and impressive palaces.<br />
Teahouse, Esfahan<br />
2 Shiraz<br />
A relaxed city and the final<br />
resting place of many of Iran’s<br />
great poets, Shiraz is an ideal<br />
base from which to explore the<br />
region’s antiquities.<br />
3 Persepolis<br />
Marvel at this ancient city, once<br />
the heart of one of the world’s<br />
mightiest empires, hidden under<br />
the sands for thousands of years.<br />
Find out more<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Iran, please see<br />
page 89.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Iran<br />
specialists 01993 838 265<br />
Tomb of Hafez, Shiraz<br />
Statue, Persepolis<br />
Iran 85
Bazaar, Shiraz<br />
Tehran<br />
There is nowhere better in Iran than Tehran to<br />
get an overview of Persian history and culture.<br />
The museums here are amongst the best in the<br />
Middle East and are an essential part of any visit.<br />
The pick of them is probably the Golestan Palace,<br />
though the National Museum of Iran and the<br />
National Jewels Museum are fantastic to stroll<br />
through. Like any other capital Tehran has its<br />
fair share of problems. On some days the traffic<br />
can seem like a glacial flow, but try not to let<br />
this negative image blot out the many positives<br />
of a visit here.<br />
Shiraz<br />
There’s no wine here. If there were this would<br />
be the most convivial city in the Middle East. The<br />
locals are friendly, liberal and literate; the climate<br />
is pleasant for most of the year; and the nearby<br />
attractions of Persepolis and Naqsh-e-Rostam are<br />
the equal of anything in Athens or Rome. If you<br />
like bazaars then welcome to the best one in Iran,<br />
selling everything from carpets to cake under a<br />
vaulted ceiling dating back 250 years. Shiraz also<br />
excels in architecture – indeed many of its finest<br />
buildings were built to rival Esfahan.<br />
Detail, Golestan Palace, Tehran<br />
Persepolis and the<br />
Persian Empire<br />
Beneath the searing heat of the Persian sun,<br />
backed by Mt Rahmat, lie the ruins of the<br />
once-great Achaemenid Empire. Smothered<br />
in sand and rock until the 1930s, this amazing<br />
site was once a religious and cultural<br />
powerhouse, dominating peoples as disparate<br />
as the Scythians of Siberia and the Copts of<br />
Ethiopia. It is this ancient empire that<br />
has given today’s Iranians a distinctly<br />
un-Arabic culture and character. Whilst most<br />
Iranians see themselves as Islamic, they do<br />
not consider themselves as Arabic, but as<br />
distinctly Iranian or Persian. This is a direct<br />
consequence of the vast empire once<br />
controlled from Persepolis, which continues<br />
to loom large in the national psyche.<br />
Columns of the Great Hall, Persepolis<br />
Carving detail, Persepolis<br />
Persepolis succumbed finally to Alexander<br />
the Great, whose thirst for conquest was so<br />
thoroughly slaked here that he left only<br />
rubble – though this alone is supremely<br />
impressive, reminding the casual visitor<br />
of the sheer depth and longevity of Persian<br />
history and culture. Anyone with even a<br />
passing interest in antiquity should make a<br />
visit here their first priority.<br />
86
Bridge of 33 arches, Esfahan Iman Mosque, Esfahan Ceiling of Iman Mosque, Esfahan<br />
Shah Abbas, who made Esfahan his capital<br />
Esfahan<br />
Imagine an architectural portfolio so astonishing<br />
in its craftsmanship that it epitomises the best of<br />
five hundred years of Islamic culture, and you<br />
have imagined Esfahan. There are at least a dozen<br />
sights of dazzling quality here, including three of<br />
the finest religious buildings anywhere – the Jame,<br />
Imam and Sheikh Lotfollah Mosques. These would<br />
rank alongside the glories of Damascus,<br />
Samarkand and Istanbul in any list of the mustsees<br />
of the Islamic world. Nothing can prepare<br />
you for the heart-stopping moment when you<br />
first see the scale and grandeur of Imam Square,<br />
the world’s second largest public space, containing<br />
within it the zenith of Persian art and architecture.<br />
Walking along the banks of the Zayandeh River,<br />
exploring the Armenian quarter or simply<br />
relaxing in a teahouse, Esfahan is an unmitigated<br />
delight and one of the best places in Iran to<br />
meet local people, for whom this city is their<br />
proudest achievement.<br />
Schoolgirls playing, Esfahan<br />
THE ABBASI, ESFAHAN<br />
Built around the remains of a caravanserai<br />
originally established by Shah Abbas, The Abbasi<br />
is Esfahan’s, if not Iran’s, best and most<br />
characterful hotel – though as with the rest of<br />
Iran, do not expect outstanding service. In many<br />
respects, The Abbasi is like a museum. Everything<br />
is on a grand scale, and walking into the huge<br />
courtyard cannot fail to impress. There is a<br />
swimming pool and sauna (single sex only,<br />
available on a rotational basis) and a choice of<br />
attractive restaurants, with outdoor dining in the<br />
central courtyard a real treat in spring and<br />
summer. The location, within walking distance of<br />
Imam Square, cannot be faulted. The ornate<br />
breakfast room is remarkable and may just be<br />
the grandest room you’ll ever have breakfast in!<br />
Courtyard at The Abbasi, Esfahan<br />
Carpet shop, Esfahan<br />
Iman Square, Esfahan<br />
www.audleytravel.com/iran ● 01993 838 265 ● Iran 87
Badgirs, Yazd<br />
Mosaic at Friday mosque, Yazd<br />
Woman with her donkey, Abyaneh<br />
Old town, Yazd<br />
Yazd<br />
The centre of Iran is dominated by the Zagros<br />
mountains and the Dasht-e Kavir desert.<br />
Squeezed between the two is Yazd, the centre<br />
of Zoroastrianism and an excellent place to<br />
walk through and explore. The architecture<br />
here is unique in Iran, particularly the traditional<br />
badgir towers – providing an ancient form of<br />
air-conditioning to the adobe houses below.<br />
Yazd is also home to some excellent, characterful<br />
accommodation options tucked away in the<br />
corners of the bazaar.<br />
Courtyard hotel, Yazd<br />
COURTYARD HOTELS, YAZD<br />
Yazd has always been a wealthy town owing to<br />
its location on key trade routes. In the 18th and<br />
19th centuries, merchants in the town built grand<br />
homes, set around several courtyards. Some of<br />
these have now been converted into hotels, and<br />
offer some of the country’s most characterful<br />
accommodation. Many are in the heart of the<br />
old town, amongst winding lanes, adding to the<br />
atmosphere. Two of our favourites are the Hotel<br />
Dad and the Fahadan, but there are many others.<br />
Village of Abyaneh<br />
Further afield<br />
Most visitors to Iran take in the key cities of<br />
Esfahan, Shiraz and Yazd, but this is a large,<br />
diverse country, with much else to offer. An<br />
easy place to add on to an itinerary is the village<br />
of Abyaneh, close to Esfahan. This pretty village<br />
is unspoilt, accessible, and gives a taste of rural<br />
life in Iran. To the north of the capital are the<br />
Alborz Mountains and the Caspian Sea. Heading<br />
west, Kurds and Azaris start to dominate, and<br />
the landscape is surprisingly verdant. The city<br />
of Tabriz, home to some of the world’s greatest<br />
carpet makers is a great base to explore the<br />
surrounding region – including the village of<br />
Kandovan, where the entire population lives<br />
in caves.<br />
Between Tehran and the Iraqi border are the<br />
Kurdish provinces, full of precipitous mountain<br />
villages, stark and haunting scenery and a culture<br />
that has weathered the vicissitudes of history for<br />
thousands of years. East of Tehran, the landscape<br />
becomes much drier and desert like. The city of<br />
Mashhad, near the Turkmenistan border is home<br />
to Iran’s holiest shrine, the tomb of Shia Islam’s<br />
eighth Imam, Imam Reza. A visit here is to truly<br />
enter the heart of the Shia, and therefore the<br />
heart of the Iranian experience.<br />
Building for performing of rituals, Yazd<br />
88<br />
Zoroastrian Fire Temple, Yazd
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Iran specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Esfahan<br />
Tehran<br />
Abyaneh<br />
Yazd<br />
Tehran<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 265<br />
Shiraz<br />
Persepolis<br />
Esfahan<br />
Getting around<br />
Yazd<br />
Once in Iran, we suggest using private vehicles to<br />
give you the maximum flexibility. These are of a<br />
western standard, air conditioned and will be<br />
driven by experienced, safe drivers used to<br />
dealing with the sometimes hectic traffic<br />
conditions in Iranian cities.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
~ ~ ~ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ~<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Considering its location, Iran has unusually<br />
diverse weather. The north is very hot in summer<br />
and cold in winter. In the south you’re in the<br />
Persian Gulf, so expect pretty warm days even in<br />
December and January. Broadly speaking the best<br />
times of year to visit are in spring and autumn,<br />
when there are no extremes of temperature in<br />
most places.<br />
Time difference: GMT+3.5 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 6 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline prices<br />
for your trip to Iran on our website, alternatively<br />
please call our specialists to discuss your plans.<br />
Classic Iran<br />
This 13 day trip is a comprehensive visit to this<br />
most fascinating of countries. Starting in Tehran,<br />
you’ll visit the desert town of Yazd, Persepolis, as<br />
well as the incredible city of Esfahan. Giving you a<br />
taste of rural life in Iran, you’ll also spend a night<br />
in the pretty village of Abyaneh.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Fly from London to Tehran overnight.<br />
After time to relax, start exploring<br />
the Iranian capital.<br />
Visit the Qajar era Golestan Palace,<br />
the Carpet Museum and take in the<br />
impressive National Jewels Museum.<br />
Drive to the village of Abyaneh.<br />
Spend the afternoon walking in<br />
the village.<br />
Drive to Yazd, stopping en-route at<br />
Nain, centre of carpet production.<br />
Spend the day exploring Yazd, in the<br />
afternoon visit ancient Zoroastrian<br />
sights including the Towers of Silence.<br />
Continue to Shiraz, via Pasargadae,<br />
location of the tomb of Cyrus<br />
the Great.<br />
Leave the city to see Persepolis, in<br />
the evening explore Shiraz’s bazaars.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Esfahan. Take a sunset stroll<br />
along the Zayandeh River.<br />
Take in Imam Square and the<br />
spectacular Imam and Sheikh Lotfallah<br />
Mosques, and Ali Qapu and Chehel<br />
Sotun Palaces.<br />
A day at leisure to continue<br />
exploring Esfahan.<br />
Return to Tehran via the Fin Gardens<br />
in Kashan and Qom, the heartland of<br />
the Islamic Revolution in Iran.<br />
An early start for your return flight<br />
back to the UK.<br />
Extensions<br />
Iran can potentially be combined with the<br />
countries of Central Asia and the Silk Route,<br />
to make a unique and memorable trip.<br />
Iran Uncovered<br />
This trip is designed to give you an overview of<br />
the major sites and is perfect for those with less<br />
time. Starting in Tehran, you drive to the intriguing<br />
desert city of Yazd. From here you continue to<br />
Esfahan to savour the stunning architecture and<br />
beauty of Iman Square, before returning to Tehran<br />
for a final night.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Fly from London to Tehran arriving<br />
the following morning.<br />
Transfer to your hotel for a few<br />
hours to relax and unwind, then<br />
explore the Iranian capital.<br />
Drive to Yazd via Qom and Nain.<br />
Spend the day exploring the desert<br />
city of Yazd.<br />
Drive onto Esfahan, arriving at<br />
lunchtime.<br />
A full day tour of Esfahan.<br />
After a morning in Esfahan, return<br />
to Tehran.<br />
Return to the UK, with a late<br />
afternoon arrival.<br />
Stay longer<br />
If you have a few extra days you can include<br />
Shiraz and Persepolis as in our Classic Iran trip.<br />
Carving detail, Persepolis<br />
Mosque, Shiraz<br />
www.audleytravel.com/iran ● 01993 838 265 ● Iran 89
Oman<br />
Oman mirrors most people’s images of<br />
the Arabian region and lives up to<br />
these expectations. Part of this is down to<br />
the remarkable natural scenery, part to its<br />
heritage and part to the hospitable nature of<br />
the people. Geographically, the country is<br />
spectacular. The Hajar Mountains soar into<br />
the sky along Oman’s spine, riven by sheer<br />
canyons which drop away, revealing the<br />
contorted inner strata of the rock. The golden<br />
dunes of the Wahiba Sands give way to<br />
narrow wadis that carve through the<br />
landscape and hide deep, cool pools of water.<br />
Untouched white-sand beaches fringe the<br />
Indian Ocean, and some offer the rare<br />
privilege of seeing nesting turtles. Oman has<br />
looked after its heritage well, and the old<br />
forts have been expertly restored. Modern<br />
developments mirror original architectural<br />
style, and remain low-rise, allowing the old<br />
and new to sit alongside each other in<br />
harmony. Muscat is a vibrant capital and<br />
the mountain town of Nizwa is famous for<br />
its Friday market, with people coming from<br />
far and wide to trade their livestock.<br />
Wherever you go in Oman you will be met<br />
with typical Arab hospitality.<br />
90
<strong>Audley</strong> in Oman<br />
6<br />
2<br />
5<br />
1<br />
3<br />
4<br />
Although the farthest of the Arab countries<br />
from the UK, Oman offers an easy<br />
introduction to the Middle East region.<br />
A short trip of around ten days is sufficient<br />
for a visit to the capital in conjunction with<br />
an exploration of the interior of the country.<br />
This will include many contrasting landscapes<br />
and interesting insights into the traditions and<br />
culture of Oman. A longer trip of two weeks<br />
would be suitable for those wishing to<br />
discover areas such as the Dhofar region,<br />
surrounding Salalah, and the Musandam<br />
Peninsula. Your trip could be done with car<br />
and driver or, if you prefer, you can drive<br />
yourself. A tour to Oman can be combined<br />
with a visit to the United Arab Emirates or<br />
countries further afield, such as Thailand,<br />
India, Sri Lanka or the Maldives.<br />
Accommodation<br />
3 The Wahiba Sands<br />
Miles of towering dunes and<br />
one of the best places to<br />
experience the desert in<br />
the region.<br />
Man at Nizwa’s Friday market<br />
6 Musandam Peninsula<br />
One of the most unusual<br />
coastlines in the region, with<br />
outstanding opportunities<br />
for snorkelling.<br />
Other than in Muscat, most places in Oman<br />
will have only one or two accommodation<br />
options. In the capital there is a good range<br />
of international hotels of various styles and<br />
standards, with a corresponding range of<br />
costs. You are likely to have more than one<br />
stay in Muscat during your trip, so you may<br />
wish to choose two different hotels here.<br />
Elsewhere there are fewer choices, but our<br />
specialists regularly go to inspect the hotels<br />
and are therefore happy to recommend the<br />
best options in places such as Nizwa, Salalah<br />
and the Wahiba Sands, where there is a<br />
small range of accommodation available.<br />
4 Turtles at Ras Al Jinz<br />
The beach here is the place to<br />
see green turtles which populate<br />
the seas around Oman.<br />
Beaches<br />
Oman has thousands of<br />
kilometres of coastline with<br />
superb beaches of white sand.<br />
Wadi Ghul<br />
5 Nizwa’s Friday market<br />
The Friday market at Nizwa<br />
gives an insight into traditional<br />
ways of life in Oman.<br />
Frankincense<br />
Oman’s prosperity in times past<br />
was due to its important role in<br />
the frankincense trade.<br />
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat<br />
Find out more<br />
1 The Sultan Qaboos<br />
Grand Mosque in Muscat<br />
One of the largest mosques in<br />
the world, the Grand Mosque<br />
can accommodate 20,000<br />
worshippers.<br />
2 Wadi Ghul &<br />
Wadi Nakheer<br />
The sheer vertical drop into<br />
Wadi Ghul and Wadi Nakheer<br />
has to be seen to be believed.<br />
Young Bedouin, Wahiba Sands<br />
For suggested itineraries and practical<br />
information about travel in Oman, please<br />
see page 98.<br />
☎<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Interactive maps and features,<br />
further suggested itineraries,<br />
accommodation, climate information<br />
and articles written by our specialists.<br />
Discuss your plans with our Oman<br />
specialists 01993 838 430<br />
Oman 91
Muttrah Corniche, Muscat<br />
Muscat<br />
Muscat is the capital of Oman and stretches for<br />
several kilometres along the coast. The oldest<br />
part of the town is the natural harbour marked<br />
by the forts of Jalali and Mirani, which guard the<br />
walled city and the Sultan’s palace. Displays of<br />
traditional costume, jewellery and weaponry can<br />
be seen at Bait Al Zubair, a family house<br />
converted into a small museum. The nearby<br />
corniche at Muttrah is a picturesque spot. The<br />
houses here have delicately styled balconies, a<br />
remnant of the Portuguese influence on the city.<br />
Qurm, north of the old city, is a residential area<br />
but is also where many of the hotels are, close to<br />
a white-sand beach. The Sultan Qaboos Grand<br />
Mosque dominates the skyline, unsurprising given<br />
that it is one of the largest mosques in the world,<br />
able to accommodate 20,000 worshippers.<br />
SHANGRI LA BARR AL-JISSAH<br />
RESORT & SPA,MUSCAT<br />
A 40 minute drive from the airport and a<br />
short distance from the old city of Muscat,<br />
the Shangri La Barr Al-Jissah Resort and Spa<br />
offers typical Omani hospitality and luxurious<br />
accommodation. Comprising three hotels<br />
(Al Waha, Al Bandar and Al Husn), over 20<br />
restaurants and cafes and an exhaustive range of<br />
leisure facilities, the resort is perfect for relaxing<br />
at the end of a longer tour through Oman. It is<br />
set on a private bay, with the white sands and<br />
clear turquoise waters framed by the deep red<br />
of the rocky mountains behind.<br />
AL BUSTAN PALACE,MUSCAT<br />
After a multi-million dollar investment and<br />
renovation, the renowned Al Bustan Palace<br />
re-opened in 2008, once again providing first-rate<br />
service and accommodation. The closest hotel to<br />
old Muscat, the Al Bustan boasts a long stretch<br />
of private beach and beautifully maintained<br />
garden. A soaring atrium, richly decorated in a<br />
traditional style with a crystal chandelier and<br />
fountain, greets you as you enter the hotel. The<br />
style of the 250 rooms reflects local traditional<br />
design combined with state-of-the-art facilities.<br />
All have balconies with views of the sea or the<br />
mountainous landscape behind.<br />
Shangri La Barr Al-Jissah Resort & Spa, Muscat<br />
THE CHEDI,MUSCAT<br />
The Chedi is one of the finest hotels in the<br />
country. Its series of low-rise buildings are set in<br />
beautifully tended gardens that are reflected in<br />
pools of still water, typical of Islamic gardens. The<br />
interior suggests a strong Asian influence: rooms<br />
are decorated with dark wood, slatted blinds,<br />
low beds and crisp white linen. The restaurant is<br />
known as one of the best places to eat in Muscat,<br />
with a menu serving Arab, Mediterranean, Asian<br />
and Indian cuisine. A recent addition is the spa<br />
and the 103 metre-long swimming pool.<br />
Al Bustan Palace, Muscat<br />
92<br />
The pool at The Chedi, Muscat
Sifa Beach, near Muscat<br />
Local man at Muttrah Souq, Muscat<br />
Old Muscat in the evening<br />
THE INTERCONTINENTAL,MUSCAT<br />
The InterContinental in Muscat is one of the older<br />
international hotels in the city, but remains one of<br />
the best value and most popular options. The<br />
hotel is set amongst extensive grounds with plenty<br />
of facilities, including two attractive swimming<br />
pools. Perhaps the best feature of the hotel is its<br />
direct access to Qurm beach, a long, wide stretch<br />
of sand reaching for four kilometres. Rooms have<br />
all been updated in recent years and there is a<br />
choice of sea or mountain views.<br />
Self-drive Oman<br />
Choosing to get behind the wheel on a<br />
self-drive itinerary of Oman can really open<br />
up this fascinating country. You are free to<br />
explore at your own pace and get off the<br />
beaten track whenever you like, whether to<br />
roam further into the mountains near Nizwa,<br />
or even venture up some of the wadis which<br />
dot the Omani landscape.<br />
Hiring a car for four or five days would allow<br />
plenty of time to explore the mountains<br />
and desert outside Muscat, although it is<br />
worth considering having a car while you are<br />
staying in the capital as well. Muscat is rather<br />
spread out, and some of the hotels are miles<br />
away from the centre of the city. Having the<br />
use of a car here means you can visit the<br />
souqs and restaurants independently and<br />
without the need for taxis. Oman has a<br />
good road network, which is expanding all<br />
the time. Equipped with a good map and<br />
directions, it is easy to navigate and explore<br />
the country. We will organise all aspects<br />
of your self-drive trip including flights,<br />
accommodation and rental car, as well as<br />
making suggestions for sightseeing.<br />
City view at night, Muscat<br />
Desert driving, Oman<br />
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat<br />
www.audleytravel.com/oman ● 01993 838 430 ● Oman 93
Village in the Jebel Akhdar<br />
Nizwa Fort<br />
Nizwa<br />
Nizwa, the former capital of Oman, is nestled<br />
below the Jebel Akhdar, a set of mountains which<br />
forms part of the Hajar Range. Seemingly cut<br />
off from the rest of Oman, this bustling urban<br />
hub comes as a surprise when approached across<br />
the mountains or from the deserts of Oman.<br />
The town attracts traders from far and wide,<br />
coming for the famous Friday market to buy and<br />
sell goats, sheep and cattle. Both Omani men<br />
and women take part in the auction so this is a<br />
good place to see some of the beautiful national<br />
costumes, the men wearing white robes, turbans<br />
or small caps and many of the women in<br />
intricate face veils and colourful headscarves.<br />
The town itself has one of the most impressive<br />
forts in Oman, hinting at the town’s past role<br />
as the capital.<br />
94<br />
THE VIEW CAMPSITE,<br />
NEAR NIZWA<br />
Perched on a ridge high above the town of Al<br />
Hamra, the View Campsite has 15 tents, seven of<br />
which have views over the valley. All the tents<br />
have laminate flooring, a basic air-conditioner and<br />
heater, and en suite shower rooms. The valleyview<br />
tents have raised terraces which are a great<br />
place to take in the view, whilst the courtyard-view<br />
tents also have smaller patios for sitting out and<br />
enjoying the peacefulness of the area. Meals are<br />
served in the small dining area which also looks<br />
over the valley and Al Hamra. The View Campsite<br />
offers a comfortable and altogether different<br />
experience to most other options in the area.<br />
Lady at Nizwa’s Friday market<br />
The View Campsite, near Nizwa<br />
Jebel Akhdar<br />
The region surrounding Nizwa is famed for its<br />
natural beauty, with the Jebel Akhdar living up<br />
to their name ‘the Green Mountains’. Many of<br />
the hills have been terraced for orchards and<br />
agricultural fields. Within this area you will also<br />
find Wadi Ghul, Oman’s Grand Canyon, with its<br />
breathtaking sheer drop of over a kilometre.<br />
The region boasts several important historical<br />
sites, including the beehive tombs of Bat and<br />
Al Ayn, burial sites which have been dated to<br />
3000 BC and are now UNESCO World Heritage<br />
Sites. You are never far from a fort, and Bahla and<br />
Jabrin are two great examples. Bahla’s historical<br />
importance is very evident in the town’s massive<br />
walls, stretching for 12 kilometres. The town’s fort<br />
is another UNESCO protected site, dating to<br />
1000 BC. Nearby Jabrin is a smaller settlement<br />
but has an equally impressive fort, renowned for<br />
its exquisite painted ceilings.
Nizwa Mosque and the Jebel Akhdar Beehive tombs of Al Ayn, Jebel Akhdar Fisherman, Ras Al Jinz<br />
Boy at the market, Nizwa<br />
Camels in the Wahiba Sands<br />
Wahiba Sands<br />
About four hours drive from Muscat, the Wahiba<br />
Sands are the most accessible of the desert areas<br />
of Oman. The sands are home to numerous<br />
species of plants and animals and are therefore a<br />
site of scientific interest, as well as being a popular<br />
destination for visitors. In places, the dunes reach<br />
150 metres in height, offering great opportunities<br />
for exhilarating 4x4 drives and fabulous views of<br />
desert sunsets. The area is sparsely populated but<br />
there are some Bedouin tribes which are less<br />
nomadic than in the past and have settled in the<br />
Wahiba Sands. They welcome visitors to their<br />
homes, displaying the typical hospitality associated<br />
with this region.<br />
There is a range of accommodation available<br />
in the Wahiba Sands, from the more basic<br />
Bedouin tents and wooden barasti-style huts to<br />
air-conditioned, en suite rooms or private camps<br />
set up just for you. We recommend spending<br />
two nights in the desert so that you have time to<br />
explore the dunes or organise other activities like<br />
camel rides or quad-biking, but one night will<br />
allow you to experience the landscape and the<br />
wonderful peace and solitude of this area.<br />
Desert Nights Camp, Wahiba Sands<br />
DESERT NIGHTS CAMP,<br />
WAHIBA SANDS<br />
Set between two 30 metre dunes, yet only<br />
11 kilometres from the main road, the Desert<br />
Nights Camp has a real feeling of peace and<br />
relaxation. Each air-conditioned ‘tent’ comprises a<br />
lounge, bedroom and bathroom and is equipped<br />
with all the facilities of a luxury hotel. There is a<br />
range of activities from quad-biking and camel<br />
riding to 4x4 dune bashing. In the evening, dinner<br />
is provided in the main restaurant with a chance<br />
to relax afterwards under the stars and listen to<br />
local musicians.<br />
Ras Al Jinz<br />
On the coast south of Muscat is the small<br />
cove of Ras Al Jinz. It is here that Omani efforts<br />
to preserve the marine life of the area are<br />
concentrated, at the Ras Al Jinz Nature Reserve.<br />
The beach is a prime spot for turtles to come<br />
ashore to lay their eggs all year round, although<br />
the principal season for nesting is between July<br />
and September. There is a good visitor centre<br />
next to the beach along with accommodation at<br />
Carapace Lodge, perfect for late evening and<br />
early morning visits to view the turtles.<br />
Turtle at Ras Al Jinz<br />
www.audleytravel.com/oman ● 01993 838 430 ● Oman 95
Coastline near Salalah<br />
Salalah Marriott Beach Resort<br />
Salalah<br />
Salalah is the main town of the Dhofar region,<br />
located in the far southwest of Oman and near<br />
the border with Yemen. One of Oman’s most<br />
ancient settlements, Salalah has a very different<br />
climate to the rest of the country, and in the<br />
summer months the city experiences the khareef<br />
season, influenced by the monsoon winds and<br />
rain from the Indian Ocean. During this period,<br />
the countryside turns green and lush and visitors<br />
from elsewhere in the Arabian peninsula flock<br />
here to experience the refreshing rainfall. At<br />
other times Salalah is a rather sleepy but<br />
attractive place to spend a few days, where you<br />
can enjoy the tropical atmosphere amongst the<br />
banana groves and palm trees. To the east and<br />
west of the town are some places of interest,<br />
including the tomb of the Prophet Job, hills filled<br />
with frankincense-bearing trees and the ancient<br />
port of Samhuram, at one time associated with<br />
the Queen of Sheba.<br />
96<br />
SALALAH MARRIOTT<br />
BEACH RESORT<br />
The Salalah Marriott is actually located<br />
approximately one hour’s drive from the city,<br />
near to a small town called Mirbat. It is a peaceful,<br />
relaxing retreat and an excellent choice for ending<br />
your trip around Oman. Most of the rooms look<br />
over the pool (the largest in Oman) and beach,<br />
with views of the Indian Ocean. There are a<br />
number of restaurants serving a range of cuisines,<br />
including a seafood restaurant which makes the<br />
most of the daily catch. Although a little isolated,<br />
the Marriott offers comfortable accommodation<br />
and is within easy reach of Salalah and the<br />
surrounding points of interest. The coastline to<br />
the east of the hotel is very remote with<br />
fascinating geology, flora and fauna, making it<br />
well worth exploring.<br />
Playing football on the beach, Salalah<br />
Lagoon near Salalah
The Frankincense Trade<br />
The Dhofar region, with its principal town<br />
of Salalah, has been one of the world’s<br />
premier sources of frankincense since ancient<br />
times. The Ancient Egyptians, Greeks and<br />
Persians were amongst the civilisations who<br />
purchased Omani frankincense. The trade<br />
thrived thanks to its use in rituals associated<br />
with different religions and was one of the<br />
gifts offered by the three magi (wise men)<br />
in the Bible’s nativity story. Dhofar prospered<br />
during these times. The ruins of Samhuram,<br />
an ancient port near Salalah are testament<br />
to its importance on early trade routes.<br />
Frankincense was transported from here all<br />
over the world.<br />
Frankincense is tapped from the Boswellia<br />
tree which grows in the hills near Salalah.<br />
Small incisions are made in the bark during<br />
March and April and the tree is then left for<br />
around five days whilst the milky sap seeps<br />
out. The lumps of resin are then collected<br />
by local people, whose families have been<br />
involved in the industry for centuries. Today<br />
frankincense is still shipped around the world<br />
for use in religious ceremonies and as an<br />
important ingredient in the manufacture of<br />
perfumes. You can buy frankincense in most<br />
souqs in Oman, but the souq in Salalah<br />
offers the largest range.<br />
Harvesting frankincense<br />
Frankincense<br />
Burning frankincense at Job’s Tomb<br />
Mosque and boat at Zighy Bay, Musandam Peninsula<br />
The Musandam Peninsula<br />
Musandam is one of the least visited but most<br />
beautiful areas of Oman. It is a parcel of Omani<br />
territory, entirely cut off from the rest of the<br />
country by the surrounding United Arab Emirates,<br />
a legacy of the tribal lines which dictated the<br />
shape of modern Arab nations. You can drive<br />
from the main part of Oman to reach Musandam,<br />
or to save time, fly northwards from Muscat.<br />
Jutting into the Straits of Hormuz like a crooked<br />
finger, its coastline is deeply scored with jagged<br />
creeks that are often compared to Norwegian<br />
fjords. Dhow cruises around the coast are a good<br />
way to see Musandam from a different<br />
perspective, with opportunities to enjoy the<br />
scenery and snorkel in the brilliantly clear water.<br />
Inland, roads cut through the folded mountains<br />
and there are small villages and towns with white<br />
houses and small forts.<br />
SIX SENSES ZIGHY BAY,<br />
MUSANDAM PENINSULA<br />
Six Senses Zighy Bay complements the remote<br />
and beautiful location with its use of traditional<br />
materials and design. There are 79 pool villas<br />
and pool villa suites, each with their own small<br />
swimming pool. The resort has all the facilities<br />
needed for a stay in such a remote place,<br />
including a marina, gym, spa and a range of dining<br />
options, including private dining in the hills. Backed<br />
by mountains, the hotel sits on a secluded beach.<br />
You can choose to arrive along the dramatic road<br />
from the mountains, across the sea by speedboat,<br />
or even to fly down by paraglider.<br />
Fjord on the Musandam Peninsula<br />
Six Senses Zinghy Bay, Musandam Peninsula<br />
www.audleytravel.com/oman ● 01993 838 430 ● Oman 97
Suggested itineraries<br />
Tailoring your trip<br />
The itineraries shown are designed to give you a<br />
flavour of what is possible, and are routes that<br />
work particularly well. We can use these as a<br />
basis to plan your trip or can design a completely<br />
different itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.<br />
Please call one of our Oman specialists to start<br />
planning your itinerary.<br />
Wadi Ghul<br />
Jabrin<br />
Nizwa<br />
Muscat<br />
Sur<br />
Ras Al Jinz<br />
SAUDI<br />
ARABIA<br />
Muscat<br />
Wadi Ghul<br />
Sur<br />
Nizwa<br />
Jabrin<br />
Ras Al Jinz<br />
Wahiba Sands<br />
OMAN<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 430<br />
Getting around<br />
In Oman, you will normally travel with a private<br />
driver for the trip into the interior of the<br />
country, using a 4x4 vehicle in order to cope<br />
with the varying terrains, including mountains,<br />
wadis and deserts. In the capital and Salalah you<br />
may have transfers and sightseeing provided in<br />
air-conditioned saloon vehicles. Otherwise there<br />
is the opportunity to drive yourself around Oman,<br />
and we can arrange hire of a 4x4 vehicle for you,<br />
fitted with a GPS system to make navigating that<br />
little bit easier.<br />
When to go<br />
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec<br />
✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✕ ✕ ✕ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓<br />
✓✓ The best time to travel.<br />
✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.<br />
~ <strong>Travel</strong> is possible, but this is not the best time of year.<br />
✕ <strong>Travel</strong> is not recommended.<br />
Oman is best visited in the autumn and winter<br />
months, as the temperatures are warm but not<br />
too hot and the humidity is a little lower. The<br />
summer months are very hot indeed, making<br />
sightseeing uncomfortable, except in the<br />
mountain area near Nizwa, where the cooler<br />
weather can be a welcome relief from the heat<br />
and humidity of the Omani coast. Salalah<br />
experiences the monsoon (known locally as the<br />
khareef) between June and September. The rain<br />
and humidity at this time tend to discourage<br />
European visitors, who come instead from<br />
October through to April, making the most of<br />
blue skies and mild temperatures.<br />
Time difference: GMT+4 hours<br />
Flight time from UK: 8 hours<br />
Prices<br />
We offer trips to cater for a wide range of<br />
budgets. You can find up-to-date guideline<br />
prices for your trip to Oman on our website,<br />
alternatively please call our specialists to discuss<br />
your plans.<br />
Classic Oman<br />
The Classic Oman itinerary is a great trip for a<br />
first-time visitor to the country because it gives a<br />
good overview of some of the main highlights.<br />
The trip takes you through the contrasting<br />
landscapes of the coast, desert and mountains,<br />
with time to take in the capital and the interesting<br />
interior town of Nizwa. This itinerary can also be<br />
adapted for a self-drive tour.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Day 3<br />
Day 4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Wahiba Sands<br />
Fly overnight from the UK to Muscat.<br />
Arrive in Muscat and transfer to<br />
your hotel.<br />
Discover the sights of Muscat.<br />
Pass through the spectacular Wadi<br />
Bani Awf on the way to Nizwa .<br />
Explore Nizwa and the surrounding<br />
Jebel Akhdar region, including Jabrin<br />
Fort and Oman’s ‘grand canyon’ at<br />
Wadi Ghul.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to the Wahiba Sands, crossing<br />
the dunes to a desert camp.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Wadi Bani Khalid, one of<br />
Oman’s most picturesque spots,<br />
before continuing to Ras Al Jinz for<br />
the opportunity to view the turtles.<br />
Return to Muscat via Sur along the<br />
coastal road.<br />
Transfer to the airport for your<br />
return flight to the UK.<br />
Stay longer<br />
Extend the trip by spending a few more days in<br />
Muscat, with time to relax at one of the capital’s<br />
beaches. Alternatively travel from Muscat to<br />
another destination such as the Maldives, Sri Lanka<br />
or India.<br />
Salalah<br />
Grand Tour of Oman<br />
This itinerary offers a more comprehensive look at<br />
Oman, its culture and history, along with time to<br />
relax in Muscat and Salalah on the country’s<br />
beaches. The trip could either be done with your<br />
own private driver or as a self-drive itinerary.<br />
Day 1<br />
Day 2<br />
Days 3-4<br />
Day 5<br />
Day 6<br />
Day 7<br />
Day 8<br />
Day 9<br />
Day 10<br />
Day 11<br />
Day 12<br />
Day 13<br />
Day 14<br />
Day 15<br />
Samhuram<br />
Fly from the UK overnight to Muscat.<br />
Arrive in Muscat and transfer to<br />
your hotel.<br />
Discover the sights of Muscat,<br />
including the souqs and the Sultan<br />
Qaboos Grand Mosque.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> south from Muscat via Sur<br />
along the coast to Ras Al Jinz, with<br />
the opportunity to visit the beach<br />
where turtles come ashore to nest.<br />
Visit Wadi Bani Khalid on the way to<br />
the Wahiba Sands, spending a night<br />
there at a desert camp.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Nizwa.<br />
Visit Nizwa and the surrounding Jebel<br />
Akhdar region, including Wadi Ghul.<br />
A second day of sightseeing from<br />
Nizwa, going to Jabrin, Bahla and the<br />
beehive tombs at Al Ayn.<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> to Muscat through the<br />
spectacular Wadi Bani Awf. In the<br />
evening fly from Muscat to Salalah.<br />
Explore the coastline to the east of<br />
Salalah, going to the ancient port of<br />
Samhuram and some of the pretty<br />
fishing villages in the area.<br />
Discover the coastline to the west<br />
of Salalah, including the famous<br />
frankincense trees of the area.<br />
Visit the town and souqs of Salalah.<br />
A free day for relaxation.<br />
Transfer to the airport for a flight to<br />
Muscat, connecting with your return<br />
flight to the UK.<br />
98<br />
Young boy, Muscat
Useful information<br />
The Monastery, Petra, Jordan<br />
Honeymoons<br />
With such a wealth of important historical sites, a<br />
honeymoon in this region makes for a memorable<br />
trip. Egypt, Jordan and Oman all offer<br />
opportunities to combine your sightseeing with<br />
relaxation at luxurious hotels located on sandy<br />
beaches. We also offer a honeymoon gift service<br />
which allows friends and family to contribute to<br />
the cost of your honeymoon.<br />
Groups<br />
We offer a comprehensive programme of guided<br />
small group tours, typically no more than 16<br />
travellers. Not only does this make for a sociable<br />
group, it also enables us to use smaller and more<br />
characterful accommodation and venture away<br />
from the large tour groups.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/groups<br />
We can also arrange private tours, whether this is<br />
for a group of friends, those with a special interest<br />
or a fundraising trip for charity. For larger groups<br />
we may be able to offer discounts or a free place<br />
to the organiser. See our website or call us to<br />
discuss your plans.<br />
Tea break in the Atlas Mountains<br />
Flights<br />
We use a range of airlines for our trips to<br />
North Africa and the Middle East, including the<br />
national carriers of most of our destinations, such<br />
as Tunis Air, Royal Air Maroc and Egypt Air.<br />
These often have good flight schedules and access<br />
to reduced domestic fares within the destination.<br />
There are several other international carriers we<br />
recommend. UK based airlines now operate to<br />
all the destinations in the brochure, making<br />
combination trips of two or more countries all<br />
the easier and better value. For Oman, we use<br />
Oman Air, but also Qatar Airways, Emirates<br />
and Etihad, which are all excellent airlines and<br />
open up the possibility of combining Oman with<br />
other destinations such as Dubai, Thailand, India,<br />
Sri Lanka or the Maldives.<br />
AITO Membership<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> is a member of the<br />
Association of Independent Tour<br />
Operators. The Association represents Britain’s<br />
leading independent tour operators and<br />
encourages high standards of quality and service.<br />
<strong>Audley</strong> abides by the Assocation’s Code of<br />
Conduct and adheres to the AITO Quality<br />
Charter which can be viewed at www.aito.com<br />
View from Saladin’s Castle, northern Syria<br />
Terms & Conditions and<br />
<strong>Travel</strong> Insurance<br />
Your booking is subject to the Terms and<br />
Conditions of <strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong>, which we will<br />
include with your personalised itinerary and can<br />
also be found on our website. It is vital that you<br />
have adequate travel insurance and we are able<br />
to suggest a number of policies either for the<br />
duration of your trip or on an annual basis.<br />
Photography in this brochure<br />
We would like to thank the following<br />
photographers for the images used in this<br />
brochure:<br />
Alamy, <strong>Audley</strong> staff, clients and suppliers,<br />
Fotoseeker, Istockphoto, Lonely Planet Images,<br />
Moroccan Tourist Office, Peter Branch,<br />
Shutterstock, Simon Urwin, Superstock, Tips<br />
Images and <strong>Travel</strong> Pictures Gallery.<br />
All images used in this brochure were obtained<br />
in good faith by <strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> Group Limited<br />
and in the belief that all necessary consents and<br />
clearances were obtained for their use.<br />
However, if you believe that unauthorised use<br />
has been made of an image belonging to you<br />
please contact us on 01993 838 040.<br />
Visit our offices<br />
If you would like to discuss your<br />
travel arrangements in person we<br />
welcome personal visits, please<br />
call in advance to arrange an<br />
appointment with one or more of<br />
our country specialists. Our offices<br />
are at the New Mill, a 17th century<br />
converted wool mill on the outskirts<br />
of Witney, ten miles west of Oxford<br />
on the edge of the Cotswolds.<br />
www.audleytravel.com/visit-us<br />
www.audleytravel.com<br />
Our website is packed with<br />
information, features and advice<br />
covering all our destinations across<br />
the globe. On the site you can browse by<br />
theme, special interest or region as well as<br />
viewing additional accommodation options<br />
and itineraries that are not featured in this<br />
brochure. You can download all our<br />
brochures online or contact us via the<br />
website where there is the option to tell<br />
us about your plans so that we can start<br />
tailoring your itinerary.<br />
Useful information 99
New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom<br />
Telephone: 01993 838 400 • Fax: 01993 838 010<br />
Email: arabia@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com<br />
This brochure has been printed on paper from well managed forests, approved by the Forestry Stewardship Council, using vegetable inks.<br />
Our printer holds ISO 14001 and FSC ® environmental accreditations. Should you wish to dispose of your brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it.