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[FOOD & WIne]
for every taste
DC Vegetarian at SW Third and Stark is a favorite of Portland Jewish Academy students.
Photo by Deborah Moon
by Kerry Politzer
Voted the top street-food city in the world by CNN, Portland
maintains a glorious diversity of food carts. Hand-painted trucks
with quirky decorations announce a profusion of delicacies from
all culinary corners of the globe. With such a variety of carts, it’s
not surprising that among the offerings are Jewish, Israeli and
deli favorites. Some food carts serve up traditional dishes with a
local twist, while other vendors add surprising, exotic flavors to
commonplace ingredients.
Keena Tallman, co-owner of PBJ’s, uses challah to make
her delectable grilled nut butter and fruit spread sandwiches.
“Challah is a neutral bread with a great texture,” she explains. “It
becomes crispy when grilled. We use Gabriel’s challah because
it’s not too sweet; it’s great for sweet, spicy and savory sandwiches.”
One of the most unusual toasties at PBJ’s is the “Spicy
Thai,” which consists of two slices of challah with marmalade,
sriracha, basil, curry and peanut butter. All of PBJ’s nut butters
are produced locally, and fruit spreads come from Oregon
Growers. (PBJ’s: 919 NW 23rd, www.pbjsgrilled.com)
At Wolf & Bear’s, Israeli-born Jeremy Bear and his partner,
Tanna TenHoopen Dolinsky, serve up organic Middle Eastern
specialties with local ingredients. The cart is vegetarian, and both
vegan and gluten-free options are available. An often-ordered
item is the Sabich, a traditional Iraqi Jewish breakfast. A giant
pita is stuffed full of free-range hard-boiled eggs, hummus,
grilled eggplant, onions, cucumber pickles, parsley, lettuce,
mango pickles and tahini sauce. The Sabich comes with a small
side of olives and pickles. Other pitas contain Middle Eastern
ingredients like labneh, a creamy yogurt cheese. (Wolf & Bear’s:
3925 N Mississippi Ave., www.eatwolfandbears.com)
Diners at Chef Julie Hasson’s vegan, gluten-free Native Bowl
cart don’t have to worry about mixing milk and meat. Hasson
has published six popular cookbooks, the most recent of which is
Vegan Diner. The chef began her career in pastry; it’s no wonder
that her chocolate-chip coconut macaroons have a following all
their own. The primary offerings at Hasson’s food cart are fusion
rice bowls, which take their flavors from Thailand, Korea and the
Middle East. These unique, layered bowls of jasmine rice and
veggies are full of bold tastes. To make the popular “Broadway”
bowl, Hasson griddles local Ota tofu with garlic and pepper,
caramelizes it with tamari, and combines it with shredded red
cabbage, carrots, peanut-ginger sauce and rice. (Native Bowl:
4233 N Mississippi Ave., www.thenativebowl.com)
40 JULY 2012 | OREGON JEWISH LIFE