SkiCountry Winter

WINTER 2015
SkiCountry
GUIDE TO SKIING THE SOUTHWEST
Angel Fire
Chama
Durango
Pajarito
Red River
Sipapu
South Fork
Taos
Taos Ski Valley
Wolf Creek

Cool gear.
Hot fashion.
575.377.6612
Ski Reservation Hotline:
575.377.6559
Angel Fire’s Top Shop
Near the Resort Hotel
www.wintersportsskishop.com

The
Secret
to Health
Lies in
Your
Shoes
F
R
E
E
YOUR
F
E
E
T
Douglas & Laurence Goodhart
(Certified Pedorthist since 1985)
Shoes that
make a difference
• Custom Orthotics
for Ski Boots
• Plantar Fasciitis resolution
• Orthotics made on-site
PHOTO: KATHARINE EGLI
On Taos Plaza
575.758.4711
133 N. Plaza • Taos
www.taoshoes.org
www.hawk-media.com
3

Contents
4

Welcome
Alpine Lodging
Our Towns
When In Doubt, Go Higher
Historic Hotels
Ski the Southwest
Taos Ski Valley, Angel Fire Resort, Sipapu Ski Resort
Red River Ski Area, Durango Mountain Resort, Wolf Creek
Ski Apache, Pajarito Ski Area, Enchanted Forest XC
SW’s Largest Ski Operator Adds More Mountains
Inspirational Winter Retreats
Time To Dine
Calendar of Events
6
8
10
14
16
19
20
21
22
23
26
28
30
Publisher/Editor Joe Haukebo
Design/Production Digerati Design
Advertising Sales Christine Pedler
Contributing Writers John Biscello, Michele Potter
Photography Steve Bundy, Chris McClennan, Janet Sailor
Cover photo Jason Lombard, courtesy Wolf Creek Ski Area
HighCountry and SkiCountry Visitor Guides are
published by Hawk Media. All rights reserved. Material
in this publication may not be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the Publisher.
Requests for permission should be directed to:
Hawk Media
PO Box 182, Angel Fire, NM 87710
575 595 0575 | 575 758 4047
info@hawk-media.com
Scan the QR code or visit us at www.hawk-media.com
for more articles, photos & e-zines
5

Angel
Fire
866.668.7787
App Store: Angel Fire App
AngelFireFun.com
Welcome
A
to the
southern
Rockies
n early snow, two feet. Light from
the swollen moon drips through
bare aspen branches rattling in the
wind, blowing more winter this way.
This moon – couched by the harvest
moon in our wake and winter solstice
still ahead – must have some powerful
juju: dogs around the valley are
howling their heads off, coyotes too,
keeping the old-timers on the edge of
sleep. And any animals still stuck inside
whine and scratch at doors to get out
and join the choir.
Dogs have it made. They do their
thing, and many days it feels like they
run the place: they paw at doors to get
in or out – we obey; they take a bathroom
break – we clean it up; they play
when they want, bark when it feels right,
eat when it suits them, sleep when the
mood strikes.
They’ve always been a part of our
culture, our everyday lives and language,
from children’s rhymes – “Give
a dog a bone, this old man…” – to song
lyrics: “Who let the dogs out!” or “Ain’t
nothin’ but a hound dog.” They’re part
of our speech, our slang-guage: “dog
tired,” “in the doghouse,” “can’t teach an
old dog new tricks,” “going to the dogs.”
And it’s no different here in the
Southwest – when dogs are around,
they tend to liven things up. They’re
great for creating stories: everybody
has a few favorites.
We had a lab visit the ranch, lured
there after smelling the sweet juices
of a huge pot roast cooling in a pan in
the shed. A couple of deep whiffs and
he couldn’t stand it anymore. He broke
through the shed door, nudged the pan
off the shelf and quickly muckled the
whole thing. Shortly, he swelled up like
a pot-bellied pig and was moaning and
miserable for days. His drooping eyes
and face said he wanted forgiveness for
his gluttony, but wanted even more for
the swelling to go down so he could go
back to being a dog instead of a pig.
A French friend of mine was caught
in an avalanche in the Alps, buried ten
feet under. It was a ski patrol dog who
sniffed him out. The dog started frantically
digging like he was after a prized
bone (not a crumple of living bones),
and ended up saving my friend’s bacon.
My friend has loved dogs ever since.
We had a small hound for a time
who loved to ride in front of me on
a snowmobile, paws perched on the
handlebars, tongue hanging out lapping
up the cold air, skillfully leaning into
corners. Other dogs stared at him with
hound envy.
There’s the tale of a dog falling into
an ice fishing hole, a large one carved
out with a chainsaw. Dog-paddling under
the ice, he finally found another hole
which happened to be in a nearby fishing
hut where an old guy sat hunched
over the hole, silently waiting for some
action. He got it. When the dog exploded
out of his hole, the old guy exploded
straight through the side of his woodwalled
hut. It didn’t slow him down a bit.
“He sure could make tracks for an old
guy,” said a witness.
Another buddy of mine had a lab
named Bubba who used to “pull a Houdini
and disappear for days”– go on a
dog walkabout. But he always returned,
little worse for the wear. This particular
time, Bubba didn’t come back. Days
turned to weeks. “Missing dog” signs
were put up around town, neighborhood
kids questioned. Nothing. Gone.
6 SKICOUNTRY 2015

Bubba’s owner grew dizzy with worry. Turned out
some Boy Scouts saw him at the base of Palo
Flechado Pass and took him to Philmont. Bubba
was fat, so they couldn’t have thought he was starving.
And he wasn’t that cute at all. And he stank,
and slobbered all the time. Just an honest mistake
– a good deed gone bad.
Bubba ended up on a month-long tour of
Colorado towns, passed around until he ended up
in a pound in northern Colorado. Somehow word
got back, so my buddy called the pound, saying
he was coming to pick Bubba up. He described his
looks, his slobbering, all his attributes.
“Well, but how do I know it’s your dog” the
poundkeeper asked.
Months of welled up worry and anger burst out.
“Look, lady. You think I’m going to drive seven
hours up and seven hours back to pick up a miserable
mutt like that who’s somebody else’s dog”
Dogs love chasing stuff; it’s in their nature. At
the ranch, dogs regularly chased horses, sheep,
goats, chickens, cats, other dogs and ducks.
Especially ducks. There’s something about a duck
dogs can’t resist – especially my neighbor’s dog
Rip.Rip had a love-hate relationship with our ducks:
he loved chasing them on land (where he had the
upper paw), and he hated it when they reached the
pond (they ruled on water). Until the ice came. At
the tail end of a severe cold snap, Rip chased the
ducks to the pond, now iced over. Everyone’s seen
a dog try to run on ice – legs splayed, twisting, tipping
over. A duck on ice doesn’t do much better. So
Rip was finally able to catch, and kill, a couple. Rip’s
owner was so mad – having cussed Rip countless
times for chasing ducks – he decided to teach him
a lesson. He took some twine and tied a dead duck
on top of poor Rip’s head. It looked hilarious but it
seemed to work, the message drilled continuously
into Rip’s brain. Rip didn’t chase any more ducks.
He looked kind of guilty all the time for killing the
ducks, especially the one tied to his head. After
awhile the duck bonnet slipped to the side and it
looked more like a duck tumor. When Rip would lie
down, guilt turned to shame and he’d put his paws
over his duck-head as if to hide from the world’s
eyes. Hard to hide with a duck on your head. And
hard to sleep too, I imagine, unless it made for a
nice down feather pillow.
Anyway… hope you bring your dogs when you
visit the southern Rockies. The ducks are mostly
gone, south for winter, so there won’t be any need
for fancy head gear. And we can always use a few
new dog tales.
— Joe Haukebo, Publisher
The life
up high
Angel Fire is
cross country
snowmobile
snowboard
sleigh ride
snowshoe
downhill
ice fish
shop
tube
dine
sled
www.hawk-media.com
7

Alpine Lodges
EL PUEBLO LODGE
Come stay at the edge of town, at the
edge of everything! Southwest charm
with early Taos architecture. Complimentary
wifi and HBO. Heated, seasonal
pool, year-round hot tub. Continental
breakfast each morning, fresh
baked cookies each afternoon. Pet-friendly. Three blocks from
historic Taos Plaza; 18 miles from Taos Ski Valley. Taos Pueblo
and Taos Mountain Casino two miles north. See our website for
specials and packages.
800.433.9612 575.758.8700
412 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM
www.ElPuebloLodge.com
KACHINA LODGE and
MEETINGS CENTER in Taos
Four blocks from the historic Taos Plaza, shops, galleries and
museums. Full-service hotel. Includes
full hot breakfast, leisure bar/lounge
with pool tables, video games, and
coffee shop. Southwestern dining.
Outdoor seasonally heated pool, hot
tub, and free high speed internet.
Nightly Indian dances May-October. Near Taos Casino and Taos
Pueblo. Affordable prices, friendly service staff.
FIRESIDE INN CABINS
Modern, deluxe one and two
bedroom fully-equipped cabins
with room to roam on ten
acres along the San Juan River.
Located on the east side of
Pagosa, close to Hot Springs,
toward Wolf Creek Ski Area
and national forest X-country ski trails. Private river access and
fishing (catch and release) on our property. Individual living
area with gas fireplace, bedroom/s, kitchen, bathroom. Covered
porch – Open year-round.
888.264.9204 970.264.9204
1600 E. Hwy 160, Pagosa Springs, CO
www.FiresideCabins.com
LIFTS WEST CONDOMINUM
AND RESORT HOTEL
Combines old world charm with modern conveniences; luxury
within a warm, homey atmosphere; bustling activity – from
Main Street to our own
atrium lobby and shopping
mall – with the quiet privacy
of our well-designed
rooms. In the heart of Red
River, a preferred location
for summer and winter and group meetings. Dramatic atrium with
giant stone fireplace, perfect for concerts, dances, or lectures.
75 deluxe accommodations include satellite TV, free wi-fi,
non-smoking rooms. Conference rooms, souvenir shops and
café on-site.
800.221.1859 575.754.2778
201 W. Main Street, Red River, NM
www.LiftsWest.com
800.522.4462 575.758.2275
www.KachinaLodge.com
413 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM
8 SKICOUNTRY 2015

HUMANS WERE NEVER
MEANT TO HIBERNATE
ALL SEASONS
~ SPORTS ~
Serving the best since 1970
SKI • SNOWBOARD • SNOWBLADE
SKI & BOARD RENTALS and SALES
K-2 • ROSSIGNOL • ATOMIC
SPYDER, MARKER SKI CLOTHING
ICELANDIC SWEATERS • BEARPAW SHOES
800.686.3485 575.754.2308
AllSeasonsRRNM.com
600 W Main Street • Red River, NM
www.hawk-media.com
9

10 SKICOUNTRY 2015

Winter came down to our home one night
Quietly pirouetting in on slippery-toed
slippers of snow,
And we, we were children once again.
R
— Bill Morgan, Jr.
hapsody in white. A whirling ballet
of flakes and flurries. Albino skin for
a cloud-crowned mountain. No matter
what metaphorical spin you give to
snow, it remains kindling for the spirit of
child’s play. Stuck-out tongues tasting
snowflakes, sledding runs, the invention
of snowmen, are all part of winter’s
charm, yet there is also the season’s
reflective side. Its deep silences, stark
electric hushes, and vigilant stillness.
Winter manifests in many guises—monk,
merry prankster, pall-bearer, love guru
(see: Snuggling with Loved Ones On a
Cold Night, and Fireside Intimacy)—and
its praises are sung high and low in the
Southern Rockies.
High desert iconoclast and quirky
Casanova, Taos continues to seduce
and charm and cajole imports from all
walks of life. “Yuletide in Taos” is the
umbrella term for the various seasonal
celebrations and traditions. Historic
Ledoux Street becomes the farolitoilluminated
hotspot for the annual
“Lighting of Ledoux” (December 6, 5-7
pm), when shops and galleries open their
doors and extend holiday warmth by way
of food, drink and music. Charles Dicken’s
A Christmas Carol will take center
stage at the Taos Center for the Arts
(December 10-14, 7 pm). Las Posadas,
a re-enactment of Mary and Joseph’s
search for lodging, takes place outside
the San Francisco de Assis Church—a
tradition in and of itself—December
14-22, 6 pm. Awe, mystery, and age-old
sacredness are at the heart of the Christmas
Eve Procession at Taos Pueblo, the
oldest continuously inhabited community
in North America. The Procession of the
Virgin at sunset, tracked to rifle salutes
from the 1,000-year-old pueblo rooftops,
segues into the trance-inducing bonfires.
On Christmas Day at 2 pm, the spirit
of winter is honored through the Taos
Pueblo Deer or Matachine Dances.
Taos’s intimate neighbor to the
north, Taos Ski Valley, is in the throes
of expansion under new ownership.
That being said, TSV continues to draw
powder-junkies from around the globe.
Yet there’s more than one way to skim a
mountain, so if skiing isn’t your preferred
method of travel, there’s also snowboarding,
snowshoeing, tubing, sledding, and
snowmobiling. Two popular events of the
imbibement variety: The 19th Annual Brew
Master’s Festival (December 20, 4:30-7
pm), where you can enjoy a sampling
of beer from around the region, and the
29th Annual Taos Winter Wine Festival
(January 28-31), which features seminars,
wine tastings, and wine dinner hosted by
vintners paired with Taos chefs.
Named after its firebrand sunsets,
the resort of town of Angel Fire is easy
Our Towns
ANGEL FIRE
CHAMA
CIMARRON
CLAYTON
DURANGO
EAGLE NEST
RED RIVER
SOUTH FORK
TAOS
TAOS PUEBLO
TAOS SKI VALLEY
PHOTO: STEVEN BUNDY
www.hawk-media.com
11

ALWAYS
FRESH
OPEN 7 DAYS
Fast, FriendlyCheckout
Fresh Meats
Fruits & Veggies
Liquor
Wine & Beer
Cigars
Subway
BARK
Dog Treats
©JANICE CONE
DOING THE LITTLE
EXTRAS TO SERVE
OUR CUSTOMERS
575-377-2354
3373 Highway 434
Angel Fire, NM 87710
100% ALL-AMERICAN LAMB TREAT
SINGLE-INGREDIENT • NO PRESERVATIVES
108 Kit Carson Rd. (Cabot Plaza) in Taos, NM
1-844-285-BARK barktreat@gmail.com
12 SKICOUNTRY 2015

on the eyes, with a flair for good times
marking its character. There are 76 ski
and snowboarding trails, suitable for
all skill levels, and the resort also plays
host to snowshoeing, sleigh rides and
snowmobiling. The Polar Coaster, the
largest tubing park in the Southern
Rockies, gives children of all ages a
chance to experience a live-action
“polar express.” Notable events include
Wild West Weekend (January 23-25),
and the Angel Fire Winter Carnival and
Shovel Race World Championships
(February 6-8), in which participants
plant their fannies in a steel shovel and
race down the mountain in the name of
fun, money, and bragging rights. Take
the Polar Plunge New Year’s Day in icy
Eagle Nest Lake.
It’s been a while since anyone
seriously mined Baldy, and gambling
here is a thing of the past, but there’s
still gold in Eagle Nest – the lake
sports some of the best trout fishing in
the state. Kokanee salmon join recordbreaking
rainbows, cutthroats and
other fish in an effort to beguile locals
and visitors alike.
Red River, the “Little Texas” of
New Mexico, known for its down-home
vibe and a gold-mining past, keeps its
winter fun centrally located, with the ski
base in the middle of town. The bursts
and flares of a fireworks spectacle are
part of the 45th annual Christmas Eve
Torchlight Parade, and families can
usher in 2015 at the Old-Fashioned
New Year’s Eve Party. Other seasonal
highlights include: The Winter Carnival
& Parade of Ice, January 9-19, which
features ice sculptures along Main
Street; and the Red River Songwriter’s
Festival (January 23-25), a three-day
celebration of music and song.
The village of Chama lays claim to
a rough and rugged boomtown past,
when gold-fever possessed the hearts
and minds of many would-be “lucky
strikers.” Set in the breathtaking Rio
Chama Valley, winter fun includes skiing,
snowmobiling, snowshoeing, and
ice fishing on the Heron Reservoir. The
Chama Chile Ski Classic, a cross-country
ski event, takes place on Martin
Luther King, Jr. weekend in January.
Nestled in the San Juan Mountains,
Durango’s postcard-charm and winterfriendly
disposition earned it a ranking
as one of America’s “Top 10 Christmas
Towns” by HGTV (Home & Garden Television).
Purgatory, in Durango-speak,
means 35,000 acres of mountain terrain
where skiers and snowboarders can
get their velocity on. The Durango and
Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, which
has been in operation for over a century,
plays host to the Polar Express throughout
the holidays, in which children are
encouraged to don their pajamas and
enjoy a leisurely trip to the North Pole.
Mid-winter mirth and kicks comes in the
form of “Snowdown 2015,” a week-long
event featuring a costume ball and
street parade, with this year’s theme
being “Steampunk Snowdown.”
Known as the gateway to the San
Juan Mountains, Rio Grande County,
which includes South Fork, Monte Vista
and Del Norte, is rich in outdoor
recreation and all-natural splendor.
South Fork’s annual “Winterfest” takes
place December 12 and 13.
It takes a little imagination to see
Clayton as a mountain town in the literal
sense of the word. It’s high enough
in altitude, though, higher than most
mountains east of the Mississippi. It
was the jumping-off place for Santa Fe
Trail traders, who knew that in another
day from Rabbit Ears, they’d see the
mountains that were their destination.
PHOTO: JANET SAILOR
The St. James Hotel in Cimarron
offers a celebrated window into an
unruly past. Legendary visitors such as
Blackjack Ketchum, Kit Carson, Clay
Allison, Jesse James and Buffalo Bill
Cody have become part of its dramatic
fabric, and ghosts of all shapes and
sizes have allegedly remained active
occupants.
John Biscello lives and writes in Taos. His
books, Freeze Tag and Broken Land: A
Brooklyn Tale, are available through
www.amazon.com
www.hawk-media.com
13

When in doubt, go higher
“W
hen in doubt, go higher.”
That’s my favorite cliché.
And Taos Ski Valley’s about to crank
up a new lift that definitely goes
higher—up to 12,450’—just shy
of the Kachina Peak summit.
Otherwise, it’s a sublime hike, but
strenuous. Few students are willing
to take on the hour-long ski-toting
trek over a rocky spine in order to
experience the sweepingly open
Kachina Bowl. TSV’s 96-year-old
co-founder Rhoda Blake sums up
just how it was: “It was an adventure.”
It’s a life altering perspective
and not just because you can gaze
off across the Spanish Peaks. (My
last client has set his sights on the
Himalayas.)
For many, Taos Ski Valley itself
is a life altering experience. Thirty
instructors who taught for visionary
founder Ernie Blake remain; he died
in 1989. “It was such fun at first,
when it was small,” says Rhoda. “It
was just one big family. Ernest was
too good at PR; then it got big.”
Trying to take a clue from
Rhoda’s practical, adaptive philosophy,
we too, remain, sucked in by
the Ski Valley’s centrifugal force,
molding the rest of our lives around
that central core of high-altitude fun.
A few years after Ernie died, I was
a newly arrived ex-ski instructor with
three kids in tow myself. I went back
to work; they went out to play. My sixyear
old skied Al’s by himself, which
earned me the bad mothering award
in some circles, but not Rhoda’s. She
skied down it herself carrying a small
child between her legs.
Each of my own sons has
worked at TSV, making it a family
business as it has for the Blakes for
more than half a century—until now.
Intimate and idiosyncratic TSV may
have a reputation for its passionate
skiers and finally, boarders who
love the steeps, its highly touted
instruction, and one other thing: An
enormous cast of real characters.
This community celebrates
diversity nonexistent in places
like Vail, but they can boast about
ten times our skier numbers. TSV
aspires to be no one but itself. Even
so, 20 years ago, there were about
30 percent more skier days than
now, and that needs to change. Will
possessing one of the highest lifts
in North America (increasing our skiable
lift-served terrain 50 percent)
turn the tide
The ridiculous, elitist, consumerist
sport known as skiing does
not have to be that way, nor was it,
especially in our little pseudo-
Tyrolean village. We had genuine
European roots that harkened back
to the likes of Swiss German Ernie
Blake, Frenchman Jean Mayer (still
our technical director) and so many
others. Rhoda recalls living in a
16-foot trailer in the early years and
carrying small kids to the outhouse.
Once, a stuck door made her land
outside on her head. Peter, the
littlest, said, “Mommy, do that again.”
Together Ernie and Rhoda
crafted the place with an absurdist
vision to build a ski area out of
nothing but thin air, altitude and
plenty of attitude. Ernie got the fact
that “geography is destiny.” Flying in
his Cessna with Pete Totemoff, Ernie
discovered the bones of a great
ski area where everyone else saw
sheer folly. Rhoda, who had grown
up in New York City, loved this
“relaxed” place.
Ernie made a good front man,
his antics drawing true believers to
a place anyone with a brain knew
was too steep and too far from
everything. All was not sweetness
and light. There were fistfights and
firings, oft-told tales chronicled
in Rick Richard’s history The Ski
Pioneers. By 1957 they installed a
Poma lift up Al’s run. Rhoda, having
worked at an airplane factory in the
war, mounted leftover ski troop skis
in a back room as rentals, which
they bought for a buck a pair from
Fort Hale. “Everyone did everything,”
she said. She taught skiing,
she raised kids, she fixed stuff, and
14 SKICOUNTRY 2015

PHOTO: COURTESY TAOS SKI VALLEY
she cooked for their many guests. “I’m
a terrible cook,” she admits.
Now enter new owner Louis
Bacon, with a reputation as a dedicated
conservationist, true Taos aficionado
(who already owned real estate in the
‘hood) and perhaps most importantly,
very deep pockets. He is a media-avoidant
expert skier who has said that his
vision for TSV will be “a balancing act”—a
pithy definition of skiing after all. But can
he still ski under the radar while owning
the whole damn mountain (Actually, the
Forest Service grants permits).
And what will he say the first time
there’s a powder day and they crank
up the iconic new lift on our old iconic
mountain I know what I’d say: “I get
first tracks.”
Actually, that falls to the ski patrol.
It’s a bittersweet brave new world.
But Rhoda says, “I think it’ll be great.
Everything changes.” She takes careful
aim, lighting up another cigarette, and
inhales. She tells me that she hasn’t
skied since the eighties because she
can’t see well enough to ski fast enough
“and that’s not fun.” She won the only
ski race she says she ever entered. Her
love of speed is legendary, especially
driving. She was known to beat Ernie’s
Porsche with her Chevelle. A tough
mom who carried kids up the Ski Valley
road if they got stuck, she couldn’t let
anything stop her. When she saw a
driver in the road with both doors open
putting on chains, she’d gun it. “You
should see how fast they’d get out of
the way,” she says with a little smile.
This year I’m psyched about taking
clients to Kachina Bowl who otherwise
might not get there, but whom I know
can ski it. It’s quite easy—well, for a
double black (expert run).
There are other changes afoot,
too, like renovating the base area and
planning for a lift up to the lovely Wild
West, right now a hike-only and entirely
danceable 60 acres. Plenty of other
hiking-only terrain yet remains.
So…when in doubt, go higher. And
now, oftener.
Longtime Taos Ski Valley ski instructor Dr.
Michele Potter’s motto is “Skiing is life; the
rest is waiting.” While waiting, she renovates
houses, teaches at UNM Taos, and writes.
www.hawk-media.com
15

Historic Hotels
HOTEL LA FONDA de TAOS
The oldest hotel in Taos is new again.
In the heart of the historic district
on Taos Plaza, La Fonda offers 21st
Century amenities while preserving
its rich Southwestern roots and
ambience. Home to Mosaic Fine Dining,
Noula’s Starbucks Coffee Shop, and the D.H. Lawrence “Forbidden
Art Collection.” 19 rooms, 5 suites, and our Plaza Penthouse.
Friendly, personal service. Walking distance to galleries, museums,
shopping, entertainment, fine dining.
108 SOUTH PLAZA, TAOS, NEW MEXICO
WWW.LAFONDATAOS.COM 800.833.2211 505.758.2211
ST. JAMES HOTEL
Where western history – and the paranormal –
come alive. The historic St. James Hotel, built
in 1872, has hosted a smorgasbord of famous
outlaws and Wild West legends including Clay
Allison, William F. Cody and Wyatt Earp. Today, it
continues its tradition with fine dining and comfortable
rooms and a restored western restaurant and bar. Ghosts, each with
their own obsessions and rituals, are said to still haunt the place.
617 SOUTH COLLISON, CIMARRON, NEW MEXICO, 87714
WWW.EXSTJAMES.COM 888.376.2664 575.376.2664
THE HISTORIC TAOS INN
Experience Southwestern charm and history at
The Historic Taos Inn in the heart of Taos.
Acclaimed by National Geographic Traveler as
“One of America’s Great Inns,” and listed on the
National and NM Registers of Historic Places.
44 rooms and suites, most with Pueblo-style
fireplaces. Award-winning Doc Martin’s Restaurant and The Adobe Bar on
premises. Happy hour 4-6 Monday-Friday; free live music nightly.
125 PASEO DEL PUEBLO NORTE, TAOS, NEW MEXICO
TAOSINN.COM 575.758.2233
16
PHOTO COURTESY HOTELSTFRANCIS.COM / JEFF CAVEN
SKICOUNTRY 2015

Hang your hat in Clayton for a night or two...
or forever
Clay ton -Union County Chamber of Commerce
& Tourist Information Center
1103 South First Street | Clayton, NM 88415 | 800 390 7858
claytonnm.org
www.hawk-media.com
17

urgent medical care
A Winter
Wonderland
For
75 Years
Wolf Creek
Ski Area
Lesa Fraker, MD PhD FACEP
Owner/Medical Director
Board Certifi ed Emergency Medicine Physician
care you can count on
No appointment necessary
7 days a week
All ages welcome
Care for most illnesses & injuries
Colds and coughs
Sprains and broken bones
X-rays, prescription medications
& lab tests on site
Oxygen & IV Therapies
for Altitude Sickness
Most insurances accepted
including Medicare,
Blue Cross Blue Shield,
Aetna, & Humana
red river
200A Pioneer Road
575.754.1773
angel fire
FA-1 Ski Patrol Building
575.377.1805
The ONLY certified
Urgent Care Clinics
in the Enchanted Circle
ultimed.com
Top 10 Ski Getaways
—Mountain Living
Top 100 Favorite
Restaurants in the World
—Robb Report
Like Stepping Into
an Alpine Fairy Tale.
– New York Times
575.776.8020 | TAOS SKI VALLEY, NM
T H E BAVA R I A N .COM
SKITAOS.ORG
GENUINE
BAVARIAN CUISINE
GERMAN BEERS ON TAP
SKI IN / SKI OUT
ACCOMMODATIONS
MAGNIFICENT
MID-MOUNTAIN
SUNDECK VIEWS
NEAR WHEELER PEAK
WILDERNESS
WINTER RESTAURANT
HOURS: OPEN DAILY
LUNCH 11:30-3:30
APRÉS SKI 3-5
DINNER 5:30-CLOSING
18 SKICOUNTRY 2015

PURGATORY
AT DURANGO
Durango
•
Chama •
ou can ride almost
Y anywhere in the world. But
nowhere in the world do you get our
magical mix of Southwestern sun and snow,
culture and cuisine, wildlife and wilderness,
art and history. The landscape is stunning –
from high alpine terrain above treeline to
a huge rip in the earth.
Our ski mountains rip – chutes, cliffs, bowls,
cruisers; and in terrain parks – rails, boxes,
rainbows, banks. Treks into the backcountry
are beautiful and boss.
Outside our quaint mountain towns you’ll
discover fresh pockets of adventure and feel
this winter completely, utterly alive.
Nothing like it anywhere.
Albuquerque
•
•
Pagosa
Springs
COLORADO
NEW MEXICO
WOLF CREEK
SKI AREA
Santa Fe •
SKI APACHE
PAJARITO
MOUNTAIN
Los Alamos •
RED RIVER
SKI AREA
• Ruidoso
•
South
Fork
Red
River
•
• Taos
ENCHANTED
FOREST XC
TAOS SKI
VALLEY
SIPAPU
SKI RESORT
•
Eagle
Nest
Angel
• Fire
ANGEL FIRE
RESORT
19Ski the Southwest
PHOTO: COURTESY TAOS SKI VALLEY

Ski Areas
TAOS SKI VALLEY
Taos Ski Valley will open Kachina Peak to
lift-accessed skiing and snowboarding as
well as several additional new enhancements,
including new hike-to terrain.
“Kachina Peak offers some of the most
spectacular views and terrain in North America,”
said Gordon Briner, CEO of Taos Ski
Valley. “The new Kachina Peak lift provides
the opportunity for everyone to enjoy this
iconic terrain and have one of the most
unique experiences in winter recreation.”
With a summit of 12,450 feet, the
Kachina Peak lift is one of the highest
chairlifts in North America and increases the
mountain’s lift-serviced terrain by 50 percent.
For hike-to terrain, Highline Ridge and
West Basin will remain accessible by foot
only; new hike-to terrain this season includes
the opening of The Wild West Glades.
Accessible via the West Basin Ridge, The
Wild West Glades consists of 35 acres.
The Millennium Pass (good for 70 days),
the unlimited Adult Full Season Pass, and the
Family Full Pass will each include exchange
days at Copper Mountain, Durango Mountain
Resort, Crested Butte, Arapahoe Basin,
Powder Mountain and Silverton Mountain.
The Ernie Blake Snowsports School also
will unveil the new Mountain Guide program,
which connects guests with the valley’s top
ambassadors, who share local lore and the
best off-the-map runs.
Taos Ski Valley has also upgraded
its snowmaking system with two energyefficient
compressors, plus a new drop-off
area that features views of the Sangre de
Cristo mountains, and a walkway with stores
and services that line the path to the base
area and lifts. These improvements are the
first stages of the renovation of the base area.
SkiTaos.org
866-968-7386
ANGEL FIRE RESORT
Angel Fire Resort is expanding its terrain for
skiers and boarders, offering new special
winter discounts, and continuing its family-friendly
format. The Railyard, a new terrain
park, opens this winter off the side of the
popular green trail Headin’ Home and will
feature boxes, rails and jumps geared
towards those new to skiing and boarding.
This dedicated space will allow beginners
a safe place to try out their tricks before
attempting the more advanced terrain parks.
The resort is also moving the nighttime
terrain park Night Rider to Exhibition. This
new location is on the front side of the
mountain, which will allow the park to take
advantage of the best snow on the mountain.
Night Rider will be open both day and
night and will offer the best lighted terrain for
those who wish to stay after dark. (Available
on weekends and holiday peak periods.)
Several programs are being added:
Ski Free Month – new this season, stay
at the Lodge at Angel Fire Resort January
5-29 and ski for free. (Excludes Friday and
Saturday nights and January 18.)
The Parenting Pass – Perfect for the family
that has already developed their snow skills.
This interchangeable pass allows two parents
to take turns coaching and skiing with
their child.
High Five Learn to Ski and Ride Program –
This program is designed for first-time skiers
and boarders ages 13 and older to progress
through a series of five lessons and earn a
free season pass with their completion of
the program.
3-Ski Program – For the tiniest of tots
just learning how to ski, the Resort offers
a unique program for three-year-olds. The
3-Ski Program offers little ones a short
private lesson, lunch and snacks plus snow
play and activities at SnowBear Camp.
The Family Season Pass – New this
season, a family of up to six people can
purchase an unlimited ski and snowboard
pass for each member of the family.
5th Graders Ski Free – The only ski resort
in New Mexico to offer all fifth graders a
free lift ticket with their report card and a
paying, accompanying adult. Kids six and
under ski free.
www.AngelFireFun.com
866-668-7787
SIPAPU SKI &
SUMMER RESORT
Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort is New Mexico’s
fastest growing ski resort. Home to the
longest ski season in New Mexico, Sipapu
offers a natural mountain terrain, perfect
for all ability levels. From green and blue
groomed cruisers to the steeps and powder
stashes found above Lift 1, this mountain has
something for everyone – with almost no lift
line waiting.
Located just 20 miles southeast of Taos
and two hours north of Albuquerque, Sipapu
offers family fun to all levels of skiers and
snowboarders. Sipapu’s philosophy is to be
20 SKICOUNTRY 2015

the most family-friendly resort in the Rockies.
Guests have been bringing their children
and grandchildren to this family-owned and
operated mountain since 1952. The resort is
small enough so kids won’t get lost, and the
laid-back style is perfect for families looking to
simply enjoy a vacation they can afford. If it’s
your first time on the slopes, come to Sipapu
and get your first three lessons for free!
Sipapu is home to New Mexico’s longest
ski season (opening November 15, the earliest
ever) and the best deals in the Rockies. The
resort is surrounded by the Sangre de Cristo
Mountains and Carson National Forest, and
features over 40 trails, five lifts and four terrain
parks. On-site amenities include slope-side
lodging, a full-service ski shop, ski school and
New Mexico’s best riverside dining experience
at the Riverside Cafe.
SipapuNM.com
800-587-2240
Reservations are required and can be made
by calling 575-754-2223. The Grill at the Lift
House is going through a complete remodel
and you will be delighted with a new dining
experience.
Winter tubing is available after the slopes
close for the day and tickets can now be
purchased online prior to your arrival. When
pre-purchasing your tickets if you book lodging
with one of our Platinum Partners 72 hours
prior to your arrival, your tickets (along with
other RRSA products except for rentals) will be
at your lodging accommodations when you
check in.
Torchlight Parade and Fireworks have
been a long-standing tradition here at the
Red River Ski and Summer Area. Available
every Saturday night and on special holidays,
plus two Spring Break Torchlight Parades
are planned. Watch for Winter Carnival in
January, Mardi Gras in the Mountains in February
and Rail Jams and Slopestyle events
throughout the season.
named the Best Ski Value in North America
by TripAdvisor for the past two seasons
(2012-2014), and is recognized as a top family-friendly
resort. Purgatory provides snow
enthusiasts many ways to enjoy the winter
wonderland with 88 trails, five terrain parks
and 1,360 skiable acres. With 10 chairlifts and
rarely any lines, it’s simple to zip around the
mountain and enjoy the spectacular scenery
amidst the rugged San Juan Mountains. Othwww.RedRiverSkiArea.com
575-754-2223
er winter fun includes dog sledding, tubing,
cross country skiing, snowshoeing, horsedrawn
sleigh rides, ice climbing, snowbiking,
backcountry skiing, and snowmobiling. Durango
Mountain Resort is the base camp for
Colorado’s largest snowcat skiing operation,
San Juan Untracked, which has access to
35,000 acres of pure alpine bliss.
Purgatory is adding more snowmaking
equipment to the front and backside of the
mountain: 11 new snowmaking tower guns,
and a state-of-the-art, high-output fan gun.
The Resort is partnering with Burton Snowboards
and expanding the way its coaches
teach snowboarding. A new Burton Riglet
Park will be featured in the base area allowing
the youngest of riders, ages 3-6 years, to
experience sliding on snow and get a jump
start on learning.
Purgatory Rentals is getting a facelift to give
guests a seamless rental experience from
start to finish, complete with new boot fitting
stations, snowboard demos and an upgraded
rental fleet. The redesigned shop offers guests
a more efficient experience with less time
spent in the shop and more time on the slopes.
Take advantage of value packages with a
“Buy 3, Get the 4th Free,” Stay and Ski Getaway
Package, plus discounted lift tickets.
Information and tickets available online:
SkiPurg.com
800-525-0892
Ski Areas
RED RIVER SKI AREA
More snow guns are in place and ready to
create ideal winter conditions along with
Mother Nature. Temperatures look promising
and our snow making team from New Zealand
has already returned. Linton Judycki, carrying
forward his dad’s vision, offers the best snowmaking
and grooming in the region.
Season passes as well as our winter
fun activities are available on our website.
Snow Coach Dinner tours: A Cozy Mountain
Experience continues this year. This adventure
allows guests to leave the base of the
mountain from The Lift House aprés ski to be
transported via heated coach up our mountain
to The Tip Restaurant where you will be
served a three-course meal at 10,350 feet.
DURANGO
MOUNTAIN RESORT
Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort was
WOLF CREEK
Wolf Creek Ski Area is ready to fire up its 75th
season of epic powder skiing! This 2014–2015
ski season, the Elma Lift, named after the
Pitcher family’s faithful lab, will become a part
of the mountain, adding more variety and
www.hawk-media.com
21

Ski Areas
character to the mountain and providing an
alternate route back to the base area from the
Alberta Lift. The new Race Hutch comes to life
this season, with an observation area for the
crew and storage area for race equipment.
Kingsbury “Pitch” Pitcher, owner of Wolf
Creek Ski Area and New Mexico Ski Hall Of
Famer, was inducted into the Colorado Ski and
Snowboard Hall of Fame this year. Pitch, who
celebrated his 95th birthday in July, was one of
the first certified instructors of the Rocky Mountain
Ski Instructors Association. The life-long
skier raced for the Stanford University Ski Team
and was a ski school instructor, supervisor
North America, Ski Apache sprawls out under
the 12,000-plus foot peak of Sierra Blanca.
The Snow Sport School Learning Center
has plenty of programs for the family—kids
and adults, even mixtures of the two with the
popular Mom and Me, Dad and Me programs.
Or you can kick it on a trikke or rip down the
tubing hill. Boasting over 300 days of sunshine
each year. You can even take a break
and hit the slot machines slopeside in The
Lodge. Visit us for info and events online:
SkiApache.com
575-464-3600
free lift tickets at more than 20 mountains in
the southwest and throughout the country.
Pajarito offers several other affordable season
pass options, all of which are available
online at thepowerpass.com, skipajarito.com
and sipapunm.com, and at lift ticket offices
for both Pajarito and Sipapu.
Several options for securing water for
snowmaking (and also fire mitigation in the
summer) are being investigated, including
adding new water collection points and drilling
a test well. The project is ongoing, to be
launched later this year if weather cooperates.
During the summer season, Pajarito
and ski area operator for many years. Pitch
Mountain is home to an extensive mountain
has been a ski industry consultant over the
years and has played a role in the development
of many ski resorts including Snowmass,
Buttermilk Mountain, Arrowhead, Ski Apache,
biking trail system with lift-served access.
SkiPajarito.com
505-662-5725
Santa Fe Ski Basin, Big Sky, Wolf Creek and ski
properties near Telluride.
The Wolf Creek Ski School is introducing
a new pilot snowboard program called the
Wolf Riders for children age five to eight
that teaches the basics and beyond of
snowboarding.
A mobile friendly version of the website
will be available so smartphones and electronic
tablets will have easy access.
WolfCreekSki.com
1-800-754-9653
PAJARITO MOUNTAIN
Located in Los Alamos, New Mexico, and
SKI APACHE
Mescalero, New Mexico’s Ski Apache—the
country’s southernmost ski resort—offers
bumps, bowls, cruisers, a terrain park and the
only slopeside gondola in the state. Touted
as the best warm-weather powder capital in
30 minutes northwest of Santa Fe, Pajarito
Mountain Ski Area offers 40 trails, 6 lifts and
two terrain parks, all located on 751 acres on
the eastern edge of the Jemez Mountains.
Known for its spectacular views of the Rio
Grande Valley and the Valles Caldera National
Preserve, Pajarito Mountain Ski Area was
founded and developed in the late 1950s by
the Los Alamos Ski Club. The fall line and
bump runs are heralded as some of the best
in the state, and the mountain offers a ski
school, restaurant, and ski rental facility.
The big news this year is that the Managing
Partner at Pajarito Mountain Ski Area
and Sipapu Ski & Summer Resort is now the
owner of Purgatory at Durango Mountain
and Arizona Snowbowl. Read more about the
Southwest’s largest mountain collective in
the article on the next page.
Also new this year is the New Mexico
Power Pass, the only season pass in the state
that offers unlimited skiing and snowboarding
at two ski areas, Pajarito and Sipapu, plus
ENCHANTED
FOREST XC SKI
Getting on the right trail is easy stuff at New
Mexico’s oldest full-service cross-country ski
and snowshoe area, Enchanted Forest, a few
miles east of Red River. Back country bliss in
a groomed, signed and patrolled area: Cross
Country Over 33 km (600) acres of prime
forest groomed 12-foot wide tracks for additional
skiing and a wide skate lane for the
freestylers. Snowshoe Old growth forests,
aspen groves, wildlife—a cool nature trek.
Warm up with a snack at the hit where
you can rent the stuff you need. Group and
individual lessons. Got a dog Bring ‘em.
Five km are dog-friendly. Need a night How
about a mountain yurt Midweek is easier to
book. Visit the website for more information
and events:
EnchantedForestXC.com
800-966-9381 575-754-6112
22 SKICOUNTRY 2015

Sipapu managing partner James
Coleman adds Pajarito, Durango
Mountain Resort and Arizona
Snowbowl to the fold, forming the
largest ski mountain collective in
the Southwest.
After nearly 15
years as the managing
partner at
Sipapu (near Taos,
NM), Coleman
understands how
to successfully operate ski resorts.
Since his arrival at Sipapu, he has
doubled the ski area terrain and
quadrupled skier visits to launch
this modest mountain to the fastest
growing resort in New Mexico. His
commitment to snowmaking has
also helped Sipapu to earn a distinct
reputation for being the first ski
area open in New Mexico (Sipapu
is scheduled to open Nov. 15, which
will mark the 12th consecutive time
the NM ski area opens before any
other) as well as having the state’s
longest ski season.
“I have spent most of my life
skiing, working and living in this region,
and I couldn’t be more thrilled
to continue the visionary leadership
of Arizona Snowbowl’s General
Partner, Eric Borowsky, Purgatory’s
Chairman Chuck Cobb and the Duncan
family,” Coleman said.
“Skiing is my first priority and,
like many of our guests, I’m always
eager to get the winter season
started,” Coleman said. “I’m committed
not only to opening these
mountains early but also creating
an exceptional experience for
skiers and snowboarders – be it
local or destination resort guests
– while making each of these ski
areas the most family-friendly,
family-fun resorts in the Southwest
and the best value in the nation.”
Last May, the Los Alamos Ski
Club – which had previously owned
and operated Pajarito – voted and
approved to transfer Pajarito Mountain
Ski Area to Los Alamos County
and a new partnership formed by
the Sipapu Group.
As part of their commitment to
snowmaking, Los Alamos County,
Pajarito staff, the Los Alamos Ski
Club and the Sipapu Group have
been working to secure approvals
for a temporary pipeline, which
will transport water (to be used for
snowmaking purposes in the winter
and fire mitigation in the summer) to
the ski area’s holding pond.
In addition to investing in water
and snowmaking, the Sipapu Group
plans to enhance both the winter
and summer on-mountain experience
through trail, lift, terrain park,
tree skiing, and mountain biking trail
expansions and improvements.
Skiing in the Pajarito area dates
at least to the 1930s, and a ski club
was first organized in 1943. Today,
the area has six lifts – a quad, a
triple, three coubles and one rope
tow – 40 trails on 751 acres and a
peak elevation of 10,440 feet.
This summer, Sipapu and Pajarito
unveiled the New Mexico Power
Pass, New Mexico’s only season
pass with unrestricted access to
two ski areas plus free skiing at
more than 25 partner mountains in
New Mexico, Colorado, Utah and
throughout the country. Coleman
PHOTO: COURTESY DURANGO MOUNTAIN RESORT
said that Purgatory and Snowbowl
will maintain their existing pass
partnerships.
The ski industry was buzzing
earlier this year when Purgatory
chairman Chuck Cobb announced
he – together with the resort shareholders,
including the mountain’s
founding family – was looking for
an outside investor to take over
majority ownership of the 1,360-
acre ski area. Cobb was the majority
owner since 2000 and secured the
approvals for Purgatory’s master
development plan that will allow for
extensive improvements through
the end of the decade.
SW’s largest ski operator adds more mountains
www.hawk-media.com
23

The Family Vacation of
a Lifetime…
Any Time
of Year!
T
he Riverside sprawls
comfortably over three
acres of beautifully landscaped
grounds, only 50
feet from the Copper Chairlift.
Families love our wonderful playground, lawn games, BBQ area and hot
tub. Amenities include telephones, kitchens, fireplaces, satellite TV, DVD
players and free wireless internet at very reasonable rates. We now have
laundry services, too. Ask about our off-season and Wednesday Free
packages!
800.432.9999 575.754.2252
www.RedRiver-NM.com
24 SKICOUNTRY 2015

Simply the best liquor store in northern NM
Competitive Prices
Largest Selection • Friendly Staff
Temperature-Controlled Wine Cellar
505.455.2219
kokoman@cybermesa.com
34 Cities of Gold Road, Pojoque, NM 87506
Hwy 84-285, Pojoaque, NM 12 miles N. of Santa Fe
OVER 3,500 WINES • 1000 BEERS • 390 VODKAS
222 TEQUILAS • 105 SINGLE MALT SCOTCHES • 157 RUMS
UNLIMITED Trails
UNCROWDED Slopes
Lots of LODGING Choices
Lots of FUN
filled with Recreation,
Rich History and Affordability.
Come play with us, where
It’s OK to have too much fun!
Small Town . . .
World Class
Adventure
www.SOUTHFORK.org
www.hawk-media.com
25

Inspirational Winter Retreats
VERMEJO PARK RANCH
Nestled among the southern Rockies,
Vermejo Park Ranch is a beautiful and
unique resort-ranch with a touch of
Southwest enchantment. Operating as a
remote getaway for outdoor enthusiasts
since the early 1900s, the ranch offers
an unparalleled opportunity to recreate
and explore the largest tract of privately
owned property in the West.
Looking for a winter reprieve From
January to March, Winter Escape season
at Vermejo’s Costilla Lodge is the
ideal blend of modern-day comforts and
unspoiled natural beauty.
Perfect for families, business
groups, couples or friends, Winter
Escape includes a full range of outdoor
activities including snowshoeing, Nordic
skiing, wildlife viewing, unparalleled ice
fishing and ample opportunity for rest
and relaxation.
Nature not calling to you The
spacious lodge is a perfect environment
for escape from the winter elements.
The Great Room boasts a floor to ceiling
sandstone hearth, perfect for warming
your bones. Enjoy our in-room massage
services, or relax by the fire with a good
book, brandy, or house-made hot cocoa.
This high country setting offers the
perfect getaway from the crowds. Each
morning witness the namesake of the
Sangre de Cristo range, as the sun stains
the peaks in blood-red beauty. Each
night, more stars than you can count fill
the sky. Delightfully far from the hustle
and bustle, Vermejo’s Costilla Lodge is
the destination to relax and unwind.
Located 65 miles from Raton,
Costilla Lodge provides visitors sweeping
views of the Costilla Basin, well
known for Rocky Mountain wildlife,
fishing and outdoor opportunities.
Prices start at $350 per person
and include guided activities and meals.
Whether it’s outdoor adventure or
peaceful escape you seek, our staff can
tailor an adventure to suit any variety of
skill or desire. For more information go to
www.VermejoParkRanch.com
OJO CALIENTE MINERAL
SPRINGS
Deemed sacred by Native Americans of
Northern New Mexico, Ojo Caliente
Mineral Springs has been a gathering
place and a source of healing for
thousands of years.
Soaking in these sacred waters can
be traced back to the earliest human
migrations in the region. In the 1500’s
the Spaniards, in their quest for gold and
the Fountain of Youth, also discovered
the Springs. One explorer’s record cites,
“The greatest treasure that I found these
people to possess are hot springs which
burst out at the foot of a mountain… so
powerful are the chemicals contained
in this water that the inhabitants have a
belief that they were given to them by
their gods. These Springs I have named
Ojo Caliente” (“hot eye”).
Generations continue to make the
pilgrimage year-round to Ojo to soak
26 SKICOUNTRY 2015

in the four unique, sulfur-free, healing
mineral waters: Lithia, Iron, Soda and
Arsenic. Ojo’s 11 geothermal mineral
pools include 3 private outdoor pools
with kiva fireplaces and a new Mud
Area where guests 13 and older slather
mud all over their bodies and lay in the
sun until the special blend of clay dries.
Toxins are released from the pores of
your skin and when the clay is washed
off you come away feeling cleansed and
refreshed.
In addition to the healing waters,
Ojo offers a wide array of soothing
and nurturing spa services including
massage and body treatments such as
the Native American Blue Corn & Prickly
Pear Salt Scrub, Ancient Echoes (based
on East Indian Head Massage), and face,
skin and body care.
While Ojo is very popular in summer
and fall, winter is especially attractive to
skiers looking to defrost their bones. The
Skier’s Special offers those who bring
their lift ticket or season pass from any
New Mexico ski resort 20% off soaking
or lodging. Additional winter packages
including the two-night Girls’ Getaway
and Couples’ Romance Retreat offer
lodging, spa treatments, yoga classes and
private pools. Another great bargain is
Triple the Warmth, which gives guests
who stay two nights their third night free.
Ojo’s Artesian Restaurant and Wine
Bar provides a casual dining experience
and charming atmosphere, serving
seasonal Southwestern favorites and a
variety of international dishes.
Ojo is located 45 minutes south of
Taos and an hour north of Santa Fe. For
more information, visit us online at
www.OjoSpa.com
VISTA VERDE
RETREAT CENTER
Vista Verde Retreat Center is a vacation
rental located on 32 acres in the rural
high desert forest of northern New
Mexico, close to the Rio Grande Del
Norte National Monument. This beautiful
abode is tucked among old-growth
junipers and piñon pines. If you like
being in nature but prefer not to rough
it, this place is for you. A sense of
serenity is pervasive as you wind your
way through the compound. The retreat
is designed for you to deepen your
connection with the land and allow the
tensions from daily life to dissolve.
The location of Vista Verde Retreat
is ideal. The three miles of dirt roads to
the retreat center are passable yearround
and give the feeling that you are
“out there.” A 4-wheel drive vehicle is
recommended in the snow and in the
springtime mud. The “town” of Carson
consists of about 150 residents, a general
store, a post office and a fire department.
The remote, peaceful area provides a
respite for the most harried of individuals.
Owner Elizabeth Brownrigg is an
artist/designer, metaphysical healer, and
nature lover, whose vision has long been
to create a sanctuary in this incredible
land for like-minded individuals. It is truly
an oasis in the high desert forest and a
haven for artists and healers.
The heritage of the ancient Indian
culture and the expansiveness of the
land and sky create a sense of grounded
spirituality. The sound of the wind
blowing through the pines and the sweet
smell of sage is intoxicating. The nearby
mountains provide an incredible backdrop.
When you need an urban fix, Taos
and Santa Fe are not far.
Vista Verde Retreat Center is available
for special events, group rentals, or
private retreats. Vista Verde is a wonderful
place to host your workshop – be it a
day, a week or a month.
The Studio, a beautiful 37’ x 27’
space, has a sprung dance floor. This
floor can be completely covered with
yoga mat material or protected –
ideal for dance, yoga retreats, Tai Chi,
movement, corporate training, art and
other types of creative and/or healing
workshops.
In addition to the 1,800 sq. ft. Main
House, the Adobe Casita, Straw Bale
Casita, Stick Casita, and The Q are
also available. Lastly, there are two Tipis
which sleep 2-3 each (bring your
sleeping bag).
The surrounding landscape is
natural, with a large fenced area and
gravel walkways. There are numerous
walking trails in the surrounding forest
with beautiful views of the Sangre de
Cristo mountain range. For details on
accommodations, rates, and amenities visit
www.VistaVerdeRetreat.com
www.hawk-media.com
27

Time to Dine
TAOS
BENT STREET CAFE & DELI – 120
Bent Street, Taos. 575-758-5787. A
local favorite with menu selections
to satisfy every palate. Served in
a relaxed atmosphere featuring a
year-round heated patio and outdoor
terrace. Omelettes, eggs Benedict,
gourmet French toast, excellent
sandwiches, creative salads and
homemade soups and desserts. Daily
specials, chicken or beef burrito and
tamales plates. Vegetarian & vegan
friendly. Beer & wine. Open 7 days for
breakfast, lunch, and Sunday brunch.
BentStreetDeli.com
DOC MARTIN’S RESTAURANT – 1/2
block N of Taos Plaza in the Historic
Taos Inn, 575-758-1977. Fresh, casual
dining in a historic setting. Winner of
Wine Spectator’s “Best Of Award Of
Excellence” for 26 consecutive years.
Innovative Regional New American
Cuisine using the freshest local
ingredients, specializing in organic
vegetables, meats and fish, including
favorites like buffalo, elk, trout. Homemade
desserts. Lunch, dinner, weekend
brunch. Reservations recommended.
DocMartinsRestaurant.com
FARMHOUSE CAFE AND BAKERY
– Three miles north of Taos Plaza
at Overland Ranch. 575-758-LOVE
(5863). Farm-to-table, serving local
organic cuisine. Legendary grass-fed
burger, green chile chicken stew, daily
quiche. House-made soups, salads
and a variety of vegetarian, vegan, and
gluten-free options. Incredible assortment
of artisan breads, croissants,
tarts, muffins, cheesecakes, cookies
and more. Specialty coffees and fresh
organic grab-and-go items. Open 8
am-5 pm daily. Sunday Brunch. Call or
visit online for winter dinner hours:
FarmhouseCafeAndBakery.com
GUADALAJARA GRILL – Two locations
in Taos: Southside – 1384 Paseo del
Pueblo Sur. 575-751-0063. Northside
– 822 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. 575-
737-0816. “Our secret sauce makes
the difference!” Authentic Mexican food
in New Mexico. Seafood, Chile Rellenos,
Azteca Quesadilla, Camarones a
la Diabla, Ceviche and so much more.
Beer, Wine, Agave Margaritas. Nominated
by the NM Restaurant Association
for best NM restaurant 2014. Winter
hours: Sun 10:30-8:30 pm. Fri-Sat 10:30
to 9 pm. Open 7 days a week. See our
full menu: GuadalajaraGrillTaos.com
RICKY’S – Located 2 1/2 blocks south
of Taos Plaza at 312 Paseo del Pueblo
Sur. 575-758-1156. A locals’ favorite.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner specials
daily. Great New Mexican and American
dishes at family oriented prices.
Gluten-free and vegetarian chiles.
Burgers made with fresh local beef
daily. Kid’s menu. 80% of our dishes
available vegetarian. Dine in or take
out. Open 7 days, 7 am to 8 pm.
TAOS PIZZA OUT BACK – 712 Paseo
del Pueblo Norte. 575-758-3112.
We start each morning with organic
flour and fresh produce to create our
acclaimed hand-rolled pizzas. Our
reclaimed adobe abode is the perfect
setting for fun, foam and feasting.
Enjoy a unique Taos experience where
the three local cultures relax & mingle
with international travelers. Open daily
11 am. TaosPizzaOutback.com
A LA CART – 625 Paseo del Pueblo
Norte. 575-758-7503. A food cart
serving affordable meals inspired by
street food from around the world.
Garden patio or express takeout at
our drive-through window. Moroccan:
grilled beef, red peppers and onions
served on a flat bread pita or over rice
with a yogurt mint sauce. Indian: grilled
chicken with a spicy peanut sauce and
a chickpea, tomato, cucumber salad.
Ethiopian: lentil curry with yams, peas
and potatoes on rice with warm pita
bread and salad, served mild, medium
or spicy. Americans classics, soups,
stews, salads, sandwiches, Nathan’s
hot dogs. From $5.50 to $9.
LA CUEVA CAFE – 135 Paseo del
Pueblo Sur, Taos. 575-758-7001. The
best flavor of Mexican food and New
Mexico. Rellenos, combination plate,
fajitas and much more. Gluten free,
vegetarian and seafood dishes. Open
7 days a week, 10 am–9 pm. TripAdvisor
and Yelp awarded. Full menu
online: LaCuevaCafe.com
THE GORGE BAR and GRILL – 103
East Taos Plaza. 575-758-8866. Stop
by The Gorge and try our juicy burgers,
hand-shaken Margaritas, or fresh
oysters – something for everyone
in your family. Enjoy the Best Happy
Hour in Taos while sitting on our patio
overlooking the Taos Plaza. We feature
TWO happy hours: Monday thru Friday
3–5:30 pm and again 9-10 pm. Coming
28 SKICOUNTRY 2015

early in 2015: Our new Wine Store,
downstairs in the shops. Visit us online:
TheGorgeBarAndGrill.com
THE BAVARIAN LODGE and
RESTAURANT at TAOS SKI
VALLEY – Located at 100 Kachina
Road, Taos Ski Valley. 888-205-8020.
Fine German-inspired dining in the
heart of New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo
Mountains. Authentic German beers
on tap, fresh local foods and delicious
mixed sausage platters that showcase
the tastes of Bavaria! Don’t miss our
beautiful sun deck views, ski in and
ski out location and fabulous Tuesday
night fondue dinners. Reservations
recommended. Call for info or visit:
www.TheBavarian.com
RED RIVER
SUNDANCE – High Street at Copper
King. 575-754-2971. Same great food,
same great service. Celebrating our
41st year. Steaks, salads, excellent
Mexican food. Great sopaipillas!
Specials include shrimp fajitas and
quesadillas. Frozen wine Margaritas.
Reservations welcome. Call for to-go
orders. Open nightly 5 pm.
ANGEL FIRE
ANGEL FIRED PIZZA – Located on
the second floor of the Mountain View
Mall (next to the Lowe’s Valley Market).
575-377-2774. Voted “Best of Angel
Fire.” We serve specialty pizzas, baked
pastas, calzones, and salads all in a
fun, relaxed atmosphere. Gluten-free
options are available. A wide selection
of handcrafted beers and fine wines
also available. Dine in or take out. Open
Tues-Sun 11 am-9 pm. Daily Happy Hour.
ELEMENTS at THE COUNTRY
CLUB – Located on the upper level
of the Angel Fire Resort Country Club.
575-377-3055. Open to the public
year-round. Enjoy mountain-view fine
dining, great appetizers, a full bar and
wine selection, private dining rooms
and group event spaces. Dining room
is open Tuesday-Saturday 5 pm - 9 pm.
Bar and lounge is open Tuesday-Saturday
4 pm - close. Extended hours
during peak periods.
H2 UPTOWN – 48 North Angel Fire
Road. 575-377-1200. Casual mountain
style dining with an upscale experience,
where you’re treated like family. Serving
specially seasoned charbroiled steaks,
wild game, pastas, fine wine, draft beer
and much more. An unforgettable
experience at an affordable price. Open
for lunch and dinner. Reservations for
dinner are suggested. Also visit Café
Expresso 575-377-6669 for hearty
breakfast and lunch, or Hatcha’s Grill
575-377-7011 for homemade red or
green chile enchiladas!
PUB ‘N GRUB – Located at the Village
Center Plaza, 52 N. Angel Fire Road.
575-377-2335. A family-friendly pub
with 20 craft brews on tap including a
draft style root beer. Gourmet dining in
a rustic and casual environment. Best
steaks in town. Open every day during
winter ski season, 5 to 9 pm.
SUNSET GRILL – 10 Five Springs
Road across from Chile Express
Chairlift. 575-377-6681. Lunch menu
includes appetizers, homemade
soups, burgers, sandwiches, and
salads. Dinner entrées include steak,
chicken, fish, and pasta dishes. Full
bar, fine wine, and beers on tap.
Kid’s menu.
CIMARRON
SAINT JAMES HOTEL – 17th and
Collison in Cimarron. Reservations recommended.
575-376-2664. Landmark
on the Santa Fe Trail, the St. James has
been known for its fine dining since
1872. Menu includes hand cut steaks,
New Mexico favorites, homemade
soups and desserts. Select from a
variety of beers, fine wines or a specially-made
cocktail, all served from the
antique bar. New breakfast menu. Open
daily 7 am–9 pm. Visit us online at
ExStJames.com
Take a little trip.
LODGING, DINING &
LIVE MUSIC NIGHTLY
at The HISTORIC TAOS INN
575.758.2233
taosinn.com
www.hawk-media.com
29

2014-2015 Winter Calendar
DEC
3, 5–Festival of Trees and Wreaths, Taos
5–Lighting the Christmas Tree, Taos Plaza
5-7–Annual Race Camp with UNM, Red River Ski Area
5-14–Deal Daze at Red River Ski Area
6–Moonlight Ski & Snowshoe Dinner Tour, Enchanted
Forest XC Ski
6–Taos Feeds Taos Benefit Concert, Taos
6–Moonlight Hike & Campfire, Sipapu Ski Resort
6–Annual Lighting of Ledoux Street, Taos
6–Christmas Festival in the Mountains, Chama
7–College Day, Wolf Creek
7–Ski & Snowboard Academy, Taos Ski Valley
10–Community Blood Drive, Red River
10–Local Appreciation Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area,
Pagosa, CO
12–Winterfest, South Fork, CO
12–Angel Fire Resort Opening Day
12–Night Skiing begins, Angel Fire Ski Resort
12–Red River Ski Area open for daily operations
13–Bonfires on Bent Street, Taos
13–International Women’s Ski Day, Taos Ski Valley
13–Pagosa Nordic Season Opener, Wolf Creek
13–Fun Race, #1 of 9 through the season at Wolf Creek
14-22–Las Posadas, Historic Ranchos de Taos Church
15-19–College Days at Red River Ski Area
20–Never Summer Snowboard Demo, Sipapu Resort
20–On-Snow Demo Days, Taos Ski Valley
20–Breakfast with Santa, Angel Fire Community Center
20–19th Annual Brewmaster’s Festival, Taos Ski Valley
20–Dummy Gelunde Jump, Ski Apache
20–Torchlight Parade, Ski Apache
20-21–Demo Days, Taos Ski Valley
20–Polar Coaster Tubing, Angel Fire Resort (ongoing)
21–Messiah Sing-A-Long, St. James Episcopal, Taos
21–World Snowboard Day, Sipapu Ski Resort
21, 27 & ongoing–Snowshoe Alpenglow Evening Tour,
Durango Mountain Resort
23–Ski & Snowboard with Santa, Angel Fire Resort
23-25–Ski and Snowboard with Santa, most ski areas
24–Annual Christmas Eve Party, Sipapu Ski Resort
24–Christmas Eve torchlight parades and fireworks,
all ski areas
24–Christmas Eve Vespers, Taos and Picuris Pueblos
25 –Christmas Luminaria Ski/Snowshoe Tour,
Enchanted Forest XC Ski Area
25–Deer or Matachines Dance, Taos Pueblo
26–Deer Dance, San Juan Pueblo
31–New Year’s celebrations & torchlight parades,
all ski areas
31–Old Fashioned New Year’s Eve Party, Red River
JAN
1–Turtle Dance, Taos Pueblo
1–Polar Bear Plunge, Eagle Nest Lake
1-31–January Bargain Days, Red River Ski Area
3–USASA Gold Rush Rail Jam, Red River Ski Area
3–Moonlight Ski & Snowshoe Dinner Tour,
Enchanted Forest XC Ski Area
4, 10–College Ski & Ride Week, Durango Mtn. Resort
4, 11–College Days, Wolf Creek Ski Area
4-14–College Days at Red River Ski Area
5-16–College Days, Angel Fire Ski Resort
6–Buffalo Dance, Taos Pueblo
6–King’s Day, Picuris Pueblo
7, 21, 25–Local Appreciation Days, Wolf Creek Ski Area
9-11, 16-19–Winter Carnival Parade of Ice, Red River
9-11–SheRide Snowboard Camp, Durango Mtn. Resort
10–Remember the ‘80s Dance Party, Angel Fire Resort
10–Camp Robbers, Saturday #1 of 4, Wolf Creek
11–Telemark Clinic, Wolf Creek Ski Area
13–Baby Boomer Clinics, Wolf Creek Ski Area (ongoing)
14–United Way Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area
17–Winter Carnival Snowmobile Hill Climb, Red River
17–SkiBike Demo Day, Sipapu Ski Resort
17–USSC Ultimate Ski & Snowboard Challenge, Red River
17–Telemark Festival, Sipapu Ski Resort
17–Santa Fe Brewing Happy Hops Scavenger Hunt,
Sipapu Ski Resort
17–Freeheel Fray Telemark Race, Sipapu Ski Resort
17-18–Winterfest Celebration, Durango Mtn. Resort
16-18–Annual Chama Chile Ski Classic, Chama, NM
18–MLK Jr. Giant Slalom Race, Wolf Creek
19-25–Home School Week Bargain Days, Red River
22-24–Red River Songwriters Festival
23-25–Not Forgotten Veterans Appreciation, TSV
23-25–Wild West Weekend, Angel Fire Resort
24–UNM Ultimate Ski and Snowboard Challenge,
Angel Fire Resort
24–King of the Hill Terrain Park Competition, Sipapu
24-25–USASA Snowboard Slalom & Giant Slalom,
Red River Ski Area
24-25–Low O2 Challenge Race, Enchanted Forest XC
28-1–Snowdown Winter Fest, Durango, CO
30-31–UNM Lobo NCAA Invitational Home Meet: Red
River Ski Area, Enchanted Forest XC Ski Area
31–Winter Wine Festival Grand Tasting, Taos Ski Valley
FEB
1–Super Bowl Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area
1–Superbowl Celebration, Sipapu Resort
1, 11, 25–Local Appreciation Days, Wolf Creek Ski Area
6-8–Angel Fire Winter Carnival and Shovel Race
Championships, AF Resort
7-8–NM SkiBike Festival, Sipapu Ski & Summer Resort
7–Ice Fishing Tournament, Eagle Nest Lake State Park
8–USASA Slopestyle Competition, Angel Fire Resort
6-7–UNM Invitational Home Meet & Collegiate Races,
Red River Ski Area, Enchanted Forest Ski Area
10–Mardi Gras Celebration, Eagle Nest
12-17–Mardi Gras in the Mountains, Red River Ski Area
13-17–Mardi Gras Celebration, Angel Fire Resort
14–Big Little Brew Day, Sipapu Ski Resort
14–RRSA Children’s Parade and Bead Toss, Red River
14–Santa Fe Brewing Happy Hops Hunt 2, Sipapu
14–Love On The Lift, Sipapu Ski Resort
14-16–February Fun Fest, Sipapu Ski Resort
15–Presidents Day Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area
20-22–Not Forgotten Outreach Veterans Appreciation,
Angel Fire Resort
20-22–Purgatory Ski Bike Festival, Durango Mtn. Resort
21–Wolf Creek Ski Team Invitational
21–Lloyd Bolander Memorial Day, Sipapu
21–Breast Cancer Awareness Day, Taos Ski Valley
21–Telemark Clinic, Wolf Creek Ski Area
21-22–Back Country Babes Weekend / Deep In The
Steeps, Wolf Creek Ski Area
21-21–Snow-Ball Balloon Rally, Chama, NM
22–Washington’s Day Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area
26-28–Salomon Extreme Freeride Championships, TSV
28–Just Desserts Eat & Ski, Red River Ski Area
28–USASA Red River Rampage Slopestyle, Red River
28–Retro Weekend, Angel Fire Resort
MAR
4, 29–Local Appreciation Days, Wolf Creek Ski Area
6-15–Spring Break Celebration, Angel Fire Resort
7–SkiBike Demo Day, Sipapu Ski Resort
7–USASA Snowboard Slalom & Giant Slalom, Red River
7–Ski Bum Ball, Angel Fire Resort
7–Ernie Blake’s Birthday Torchlight Parade & Fireworks,
Taos Ski Valley
7–Spring Beer Festival, Taos Ski Valley
7-8–Hawaiian Days, Sipapu Ski Resort
8-21–Beach Weeks, Red River Ski Area
11–Spring Break Torchlight Parade, Red River Ski Area
13–Kids Glow Stick Parade, Red River Ski Area
14–Annual Cardboard Derby, Sipapu Ski Resort
14–New Belgium Scavenger Hunt, Taos Ski Valley
14–Spring Fling Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area
14–We Be Jammin’ Rail Jam, Red River Ski Area
14–Pi Day, Sipapu Ski & Summer Resort
14-15–SkiBike Demo Weekend, Sipapu
16-20–Springtacular Family Funfest at Purgatory
17–St. Patrick’s Day Party, Angel Fire Resort
20-21–Ben Myers Ridgeathon, Taos Ski Valley
21–Ongoing – Rail Jam & Torchlight Parades, Red River
Ski Area
22–Mountain Biking Competition, Angel Fire Resort
22, 28–Telemark Clinics, Wolf Creek Ski Area
22–End of Season Pond Skim, Red River Ski Area
27-29–Dog Days at The Enchanted Forest XC, Red River
28–Moonlight Ski & Snowshoe Dinner Tour, Enchanted
Forest XC Ski Area
28–Pond Skimming Contest, Sipapu
APR
1, 5–Local Appreciation Days, Wolf Creek
4–College Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area
4-5–Season Celebration Party at Purgatory
5–Closing Day, Taos Ski Valley
5–Easter Day Race, Wolf Creek
25–Tierra Wools Spring Harvest, Chama
Dates subject to change. Check with
INFO local chambers for updated info.
Angel Fire 800-446-8117
Chama Valley 800-477-0149
Durango 970-247-3500
Eagle Nest 800-494-9117
Pagosa Springs 800-252-2204
Red River 800-348-6444
Ruidoso 877-784-3676
Santa Fe 800-777-2489
South Fork 800-571-0881
Taos County 800-732-8267
Taos Pueblo 575-758-1028
30 SKICOUNTRY 2015

Crafting comfort for 37 years.
It’s our nature.
Directed by you.
575.377.6456 ph 575.377.3822 fx
po box 303 angel fire nm 87710
shuterconstruction.com
shuter@taosnet.com
lic #90984
www.hawk-media.com
SHUTER
CONSTRUCTION
31

kids love fun.
parents love FREE.
Two MounTainS. MoRE wayS To Ski FREE.
Sipapu proudly welcomes Pajarito Mountain to its family of ski areas! This winter, families
can enjoy the combined 81 trails, 10 lifts, nearly 1,000 acres and the best deals in the Rockies
at these family-friendly mountains. Visit our websites to learn how to score FREE lift tickets,
FREE ski school lessons, FREE lodging* and more.
sipapunm.com
WWW.THEPOWERPASS.COM
SKIPAJARITO.COM
sipapu is 20 miles south of taos • pajarito is 5 miles west of los alamos
* Available on select dates. See SipapuNM.com
32 SKICOUNTRY 2015