Spring is Coming! - Canoecopia

60
“Rooted in the outdoors since 1976”
Another day, another gale warning. Despite careful planning,
the worst summer in over 150 years looks like it will be
the end of my trip around Ireland. Nobody can remember such
a stretch of weather.
Everyone I meet is
filled with gloom and
says things like ‘You
need to come back
another year to see how
nice summer usually
is.’ Even the fishermen
are staying off the
water and say it will be
another week before
it clears. Somethings
you don’t want to hear
waiting out the weather
in a place called Black
Ball Harbor.
After 10 days, at
least today’s forecast
offers a slight break
before another gale is
to blow-in this evening.
Looking at the Atlantic
Ocean, strong winds
have it in a rough but
manageable state. I
take the chance to
make mileage and
continue the trip. A
steady rain combined
with the wind makes
breaking camp
miserable. Despite all
of this, I am happy to
be back in my boat,
The Nexus
of Paddling
SAM CROWLEY
happy to be paddling and not ready to give in to the gloom.
For lunch, as well as a break from the bumpy seas and strong
winds, I pull into the slip at the small village of Garnish. A
fellow walks up and asks “Are you the American going around?”
It is Mitey McNally who insists on feeding me lunch. Concerned
about losing valuable paddling time socializing, I say no. It is
Mitey’s promise it will be quick that changes my mind. When I
thank him for his generosity, Mitey responds simply, “The Irish
like to care for madmen.”
It wasn’t the first time someone thought that way of my
paddling plans. Before my first solo trip in the Apostle Islands, I
had a co-worker try to talk me out of it. There is plenty of time
to think about memories like that on a three month long trip. It is
triggered by the often-asked question, how did I get here?
Quite simply, I was seduced. It was a love affair with the
Apostle Islands and kayaking that changed my life. Passionate
instructors made learning enjoyable. Their great instruction and
positive feedback encouraged me to push my limits and do my
first overnight trip in the Apostle Islands. Exploring the islands
and camping on remote beaches provided a needed release from
a stressful life. Quickly, long trips became an addiction.
The instructors’ enthusiasm was contagious and encouraged
me to begin thinking about becoming an instructor. At my
instructor workshop were staff instructors from Rutabaga. Now
every season I drive to Madison to run instructor workshops and
stay with a fellow participant from that first workshop. Working
at Rutabaga is like having a family where everyone paddles.
It is years later that I end up at Black Ball Harbor in County
Cork, Ireland. The same county my Dad’s side of the family
emigrated from. At Black Ball, I was fortunate to have met a
family on holiday that took me in. The Matriarch, Eileen, is an
82-year-old who could pass for a 50-year-old. Eileen’s name
is an anglicized version of a Gaelic word that means a shaft of
sunshine, much like what one would see on a cloudy day. It also
turns out that her family has cousins who are Crowley’s.
Eileen’s eyes sparkle and she is always quick with a smile and
a laugh. She also isn’t afraid to share her wisdom. After seven