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Travel&Culture<br />
38<br />
A Summer of Excess by Taylor Wear, Kearneysville, WV<br />
The Explorer of the Seas is a name that brings to<br />
mind not string quartets and velvet-backed<br />
chairs, but rather bearded, yellow-slicker-wearing<br />
Ishmaels in last-resort lifeboats, sailing right to the<br />
edges of maps (eyes to telescopes) into the uncertain<br />
parts that fearful cartographers used to label “here be<br />
dragons.” It’s an unusual moniker for a cruise ship.<br />
She is swanky and upscale, with the prepackaged<br />
elegance of painted Egyptian gold and Las Vegas<br />
pink. At times she is so ludicrously extravagant that<br />
she is almost comical, with midnight buffets adorned<br />
with ridiculous swans carved out of ice and mountains<br />
of food for passengers who really weren’t that<br />
hungry anyway. Every attraction is<br />
aimed at our desire to keep up with<br />
the Joneses. Twenty-four hours a day<br />
passengers can sample fluted glasses<br />
of the world’s finest champagne while<br />
admiring a handful of diamonds on<br />
her royal promenade. In the dining<br />
room, floor-to-ceiling windows display<br />
an absolutely breathtaking view<br />
of the sapphire waters steadily lapping at the rudders<br />
– ignored by most for the flashing lights and chiming<br />
bells of the casino below. Who cares about the view<br />
when you’re on a floating shopping mall?<br />
On the fifth day, she docks at St. Martin, the Dutch<br />
half of a small tropical island in the northwest<br />
Caribbean. Mountainous and arid, the secluded<br />
beaches and picturesque scenery bring about a new<br />
kind of luxury, one that is innocent and undisturbed.<br />
The ocean here is a different shade of blue. It is not the<br />
dark foreboding navy that swallows up naive ships and<br />
sailors, but a brilliant azure that makes the sea almost<br />
indistinguishable from the sky. The water is clear<br />
enough for us to see the white sand trenches getting<br />
steeper and steeper beneath, like steps in a swimming<br />
Bad Gamble by Kate Huh, Fullerton, CA<br />
As everyone knows, ours is a fast-paced society.<br />
In a world of instant messaging and<br />
lightning-quick jets, busy vacationers looking<br />
to make the most of their time flock to the one<br />
place where they can experience Rome, Paris, New<br />
York, and Luxor in a single night:<br />
notorious Las Vegas, Nevada. With<br />
dizzying lights and hilarious faux<br />
architecture, the city is mind-numbing<br />
and superficially entertaining.<br />
When imagining the heart of the<br />
city, most picture “the strip,” a<br />
grandiose four-mile section of Las<br />
Vegas Boulevard South that features<br />
dozens of themed hotels like the Venetian, the<br />
Imperial Palace, and the Sahara. Tourists with<br />
cameras are often seen shooting from car windows<br />
Photo by Mike Bailey-Gates, Harrisville, RI<br />
<strong>Teen</strong> <strong>Ink</strong> • APRIL ’09<br />
Las Vegas is<br />
mind-numbing<br />
and superficially<br />
entertaining<br />
The sky and<br />
sea and air are<br />
your own private<br />
kingdom<br />
pool. The overpowering briny odor associated with<br />
most North American beaches isn’t found here. Rather<br />
there is simply the fresh, clean scent of unadulterated<br />
air, and something else you can’t quite put your finger<br />
on, perhaps cotton or the damp flowery smell of an<br />
oncoming downpour. The vegetation is a shade of<br />
emerald so bright it’s almost painful to look at. There<br />
are smiling women with warm, welcoming belly<br />
laughs and faint Eastern European accents sitting on<br />
woven blankets in the sand, braiding their daughters’<br />
jet-black hair into thick ropes. You get the feeling that<br />
you are floating in a fishbowl; the sky and sea and air<br />
are your own private kingdom, foreign and exhilarating,<br />
but familiar and therefore safe.<br />
* * *<br />
The detour is an accident. Like<br />
forgetting to carry the one when adding<br />
or washing a red sock with a load of<br />
white shirts, it seems small and inconsequential<br />
at first but nevertheless causes<br />
change. The fishbowl is turned over and<br />
everything perfect disappears, leaving<br />
you gasping for air and fumbling for the map. You<br />
find yourself in the outskirts of town, the sky now an<br />
ominous gray. The white sandy beaches and cerulean<br />
waves are replaced by gravel roads, dusty sidewalks,<br />
and crumbling stucco buildings with broken windows.<br />
You aren’t sure where you are; all you know is<br />
that it feels vacant and hollow, much like the shattered<br />
glass bottles scattered about or the empty shells<br />
of businesses in this ghost town in paradise.<br />
Then, a girl about your age steps out of a laundromat<br />
carrying a baby. Her coarse dark hair is twisted<br />
behind her head, there are dark bags circling her eyes<br />
like bruises, and her sandals are too big. For a terrifying<br />
second, you think she is looking at you, and you<br />
jerk your head away.<br />
as drivers pass the lights and neon signs, eyes wide<br />
and mouths gaping.<br />
To Las Vegas newcomers, the city is the ultimate<br />
get-more-for-your-buck experience. Where else,<br />
they ask, can one see Elvis Presley, the Eiffel<br />
Tower, Roman statues, and Egyptian<br />
pyramids in the span of 15 minutes?<br />
But to the discerning eye and seasoned<br />
Las Vegas frequenter – like me<br />
– Elvis is just a redhead with a beer<br />
belly, the tower is a pitiful replica, the<br />
statues are obviously painted plastic,<br />
and the pyramid is a big glass hoax.<br />
The themed hotels make no attempt<br />
to capture the true essence of the locations<br />
they represent. The Luxor, for example, features<br />
mummies and pyramids, but where is the authentic<br />
Egyptian cuisine and indigenous music? Egyptian<br />
culture does not end at King Tut.<br />
Though the City that Never Sleeps is, true to its<br />
nickname, wildly entertaining – each hotel offers<br />
decadent buffets and endless slot machines and<br />
arcade games – the cigarette haze eventually becomes<br />
stifling, the clinking of coins rings annoyingly<br />
in the ear, and the artificiality becomes<br />
mind-numbing.<br />
To visitors looking to sip margaritas and play<br />
blackjack until dawn, Las Vegas is paradise. But to<br />
vacationers looking to experience cultural depth<br />
and history, Las Vegas – for all its hilarious<br />
grandeur and cultured airs – is a hopelessly bad<br />
gamble. ✎<br />
Five Senses<br />
by Zainab Vasi, Plainview, NY<br />
Ismell India before I see it: the mingled odors of street vendors<br />
selling chapati and puri and coconut water, along with delicious<br />
cooking aromas wafting from houses. The bazaar smells<br />
of ripe, freshly picked fruits and vegetables, some grown only in<br />
India. Coastal cities like Mumbai have the scent of the ocean and<br />
just-caught fish.<br />
Next comes sight. There is so much to see, I could not glimpse<br />
it all even if I lived my entire life in India. Vendors are selling all<br />
sorts of food. The poor are begging and smiling and selling trinkets.<br />
I see big railroad stations and taxis and cars in the large<br />
cities. In the small towns, rickshaws speed along the narrow roads,<br />
full to overflowing with schoolchildren or<br />
I smell<br />
India before<br />
I see it<br />
You have seen poverty before. When you were<br />
seven, your parents took you to visit your grandparents<br />
in Nogales, a small border town in Mexico. You were<br />
standing near a vibrant rainbow of a mural when a boy<br />
your age scurried up. His face was dirty and his heaving<br />
chest bare, and hand-beaded necklaces were strung<br />
on his thin right arm like Christmas tree garlands. He<br />
offered you one, catching you off-guard. The necklaces<br />
were pretty, but you didn’t have any money, and<br />
you reached for your cousin’s hand – why, you’re not<br />
sure. You remembered the four words your father had<br />
taught you, “Lo siento, no gracias,” and you smiled<br />
awkwardly, ashamed and uncertain. But before you<br />
were even on the second syllable, the boy turned and<br />
ran off to find his next customer. You were shaken.<br />
Now, at 15, you see a difference between Mexico<br />
and what you find here. The living conditions are<br />
just as bleak; it is the people who are different. In<br />
Nogales, they were impoverished yet determined,<br />
survival of the fittest. They did what they had to to<br />
get by. Here, though, it feels more desperate, hopeless.<br />
There is a sense of having given up and letting<br />
nature run its course. At 15, you know what irony is.<br />
You look up and see rows of million-dollar summer<br />
villas owned by white people who are rarely here,<br />
carved into the rock cliffs above these slums.<br />
Evening is falling; it is time to get back on board<br />
the Sunset-Strip-with-rudders and take your place in<br />
the dining room. Your friendly Trinidadian waitress,<br />
who works 11 months each year to pay her son’s<br />
education back home, serves you. Suddenly the lobster<br />
bisque and strawberry napoleon seem less appetizing.<br />
You look out the window – you’re the only<br />
one doing so – and watch the island, the beaches, the<br />
young mother and her too-big shoes, grow smaller<br />
and smaller until they’re a tiny speck on the horizon.<br />
And you think, Never again. ✎<br />
elderly parents. Small shops are spread out<br />
all over town, mostly within walking distance.<br />
The ocean sparkles and glimmers<br />
invitingly. In some areas, the Himalayan<br />
mountains make a beautiful backdrop.<br />
And then there is the sense of touch. The<br />
fruits and vegetables are crisp and cool. The air is almost tangible.<br />
The taste of India is the taste of the air and chapatis, puris, and<br />
samosas right off the stove. Sweet candies and marzipans fresh<br />
out of the oven. Hand-picked vegetables and fruits are crisp and<br />
sweet. The naan is amazingly soft and fluffy.<br />
Noise is a word for sounds that are loud, uncoordinated, and<br />
unharmonious. However, this does not describe India. The sound<br />
of India is more like music made up of common sounds. People<br />
chattering on the street, vendors hawking their wares: these things<br />
are the melody, the high notes. The bass is the rickshaws’ engines<br />
roaring and animals roaming the streets, their hooves thudding<br />
against gravel, adding their voices. This is a melody that everyone<br />
enjoys, a melody that completes the five senses of India. ✎<br />
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