Viva Lewes April 2015 Issue #103

food
Lazy Sunday breakfast
Devilling Holmansbridge kidneys
When I was growing up, a squishy, brown-paper package arrived in
the post every Saturday morning. Eight sausages, kidneys and bacon
rashers. The meaty bounty came from a friendly butcher whose
daughter was briefly dating one of my brothers. But for years, after
summer dreams were ripped at the seams, the packages kept on coming.
We saved this package of delight – greasy and tied up with string
– for lazy Sunday breakfasts, the highlight of our 70s culinary week.
And after a recent trip to the Holmansbridge Farm Shop, I’m determined to recreate this childhood
meal. Eight shiny lamb’s kidneys, half a dozen sausages and a box of their extra-large eggs. The sausages
deserve particular comment, flavoured as they are with Harveys and hops, a truly delectable combination.
I oven-bake the bangers, while pan-frying the kidneys in a devilish (and devilishly simple) marinade,
equal parts Colman’s English mustard and Lea & Perrins. And the eggs? Simply fried, with the hot
oil spooned over the yolks. As an ensemble, this was the perfect antidote to Saturday night’s over-indulgence
– boeuf en croûte made with Holmansbridge fillet, dauphinoise potatoes, and a glass of Rioja too
many. I honestly can’t remember the last time I ate kidneys. It might have been from one of the butcher’s
brown-paper parcels. But having discovered a supplier of such fine offal so close to home, I won’t leave it
so long until the next time. Perhaps the good burghers of Holmansbridge might start a delivery service…
Sam Knowles Open 9-6pm, Tues-Fri, Sat, 9-5pm, Sun/Mon 10-4pm. 01273 401964 holmansbridgefarm.com
book
2 tickets
from£11
brighton
hove lawns
MAY 2-4
0844 995 1111
FOODIESFESTIVAL.COM
shopping masterclasses tasting
Chefs
2 tickets from £11 by quoting VIVA241 at www.foodiesfestival.com