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Mega Center, Savska cesta 34, Kranj - Format'Age

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2 whAt to see<br />

Holy Trinity Church<br />

(Cerkev svete trojice)<br />

B-3, Slovenska 21, tel.<br />

(+386) 1252 48 64. Constructed<br />

to a design by<br />

Carlo Marinuzzi between<br />

1718 and 1726 from a<br />

commission by local merchant<br />

Jakob Schell von<br />

Schellenburg, and with all<br />

the usual additions over<br />

the centuries, this imposing<br />

Baroque marvel dominates<br />

D.Silpa the area it’s located in not<br />

least for its unusual, gabled rooftop façade. Part church and<br />

part monastery, the former’s interior is somewhat restrained,<br />

its main outstanding feature being a Francesco Robba altar,<br />

carved from African marble around 1740. The main steps date<br />

from the 1930s and are the work of our old friend Plečnik.<br />

Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna Cerkev) A-2,<br />

Prešernova, tel. (+386) 1252 40 02. Built alongside the<br />

southwestern perimeter of Tivoli Park in 1936 to serve the<br />

city’s Serbian community, this wholly unremarkable church<br />

complete with all the usual ostentatious details, is worth<br />

visiting during services, daily at 10:00.<br />

St Peter (Cerkev Sv. Petra) D-2/3, Trubarjeva 80, tel.<br />

(+386) 1231 79 65. The heritage of the Roman Catholic<br />

St Peter’s Church goes back long before this building was<br />

completed in 1733, with a number of churches standing on<br />

this spot for some 500 years before Giovanni Fusconi’s superb<br />

Baroque designs were realised. Inspired by the great churches<br />

of Venice, much has been changed over the centuries, including<br />

Neoclassical additions following the 1895 earthquake and the<br />

construction of a new façade, complete with interesting fish<br />

details over the doors between 1938 and 1940 by the local<br />

architect Ivan Vurnik. Many changes have been made inside as<br />

well, including much work by Vurnik’s wife, Helena. Points of particular<br />

interest include Franc Jelovšek’s magnificent frescoes<br />

and several altar paintings by Valentin Metzinger.<br />

Synagogue (Sinagoga) A-3, Tržaška 2. Inside the headquarters<br />

of the Jewish Community of Slovenia, the small synagogue<br />

was the last synagogue to open in a European capital city<br />

and dates from 2003. The city has no rabbi; the chief Rabbi for<br />

Slovenia is Mr Ariel Haddad, who is based in Trieste, Italy.<br />

Tours<br />

Almost every hotel in the city offers guided tours of one<br />

sort or another. Some are good, others just a way of making<br />

money. You should be able to spot the scams without<br />

too much difficulty. The Tourist Information Centre also offers<br />

several walking tours of the city, and can even, if you<br />

give them plenty of warning, organise an original one just<br />

for you. The Jewish Community of Slovenia (see Jewish<br />

Ljubljana) is the best place to contact for all Jewish-related<br />

tours of the city and Slovenia in general.<br />

Digital Tour Guide C-3, tel. (+386) 1306 12 15,<br />

tr.im/digital_tours Let your headseat tour guides Ben and<br />

Mandy take you on a two-hour trip past Ljubljana’s highlights.<br />

Or switch to their German friends Anna and Thomas, or the<br />

Italian duo Paulo and Oriana. With the mp4 digital tour guide<br />

player and map in hand, you’ll have explanations about the<br />

city’s history and sights, and can see pictures too. Rent the<br />

player at TIC (Adamič-Lundrovo 2) and STIC (Krekov trg 10).<br />

Q Player rental (5 hours) and map €10 (ID and €10 deposit<br />

required).<br />

Ljubljana Night & Day Tel. (+386) 51 893 805,<br />

ljubljanabynight@gmail.com. Let pretty English speaking<br />

guides take you and your mates on an insider’s tour of Ljubljana’s<br />

best bars and clubs. Catering to groups of 5-20 people,<br />

pick any Friday or Saturday night for this experience, or go<br />

for daylight activities such as the adrenaline park, paintball,<br />

karting and excursions.<br />

Tourist Train (Turistični Vlakec) B-3, Stritarjeva.<br />

Spare yourself the slog up the hill by taking the tourist train<br />

ride up to the castle. Q Departs regularly between 10:00<br />

- 18:00. Return ticket €2-3.<br />

Monuments<br />

France Prešeren B-3. Slovenia’s national poet France<br />

Prešeren (1800-1849) stands in the square named in his<br />

honour at the foot of the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an<br />

interesting visual treat, the monument also serves as a focal<br />

point for people meeting in the city. Erected in 1905, the<br />

large monolith is the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and<br />

sculptor Ivan Zajc and features the Muse of poetry holding a<br />

small laurel of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts<br />

from his writing around the base.<br />

Puppet Theatre Clock C-3, Krekov Trg 2. Every hour<br />

between 08:00 and 20:00, puppets pop out of the clock at<br />

the top of the Ljubljana Puppet Theater building, accompanied<br />

by music. First, Kobilica the horse shows up, followed by<br />

Krpan, carrying a knife; when he raises it, the horse hurries<br />

back inside with Krpan in persuit - a scene taken from the<br />

puppet show that opened then new theatre in 1984. Krpan<br />

has been chasing Kobilica around the clock and delighting<br />

children since 1992.<br />

Robbov Vodnjak (Robba Fountain) B-3, Mestni Trg.<br />

One of the most famous landmarks in the city, this lovely<br />

1751 fountain is named after its creator, the Italian Baroque<br />

sculptor Francesco Robba (1698-1757), and is also known<br />

as The Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers. It was the last<br />

of Robba’s Ljubljana creations. The eight years it took him<br />

to complete it essentially bankrupted the man, and he<br />

finally left the city for Zagreb. Based loosely on the grand<br />

fountains of Rome, the artist’s masterpiece features three<br />

river gods, supposedly representing the Krka, Ljubljanica<br />

and Sava rivers.<br />

One of the best ways to see the sights U. Hocevar<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Museums & Galleries<br />

Brewery Museum (Pivovarski Muzej) B-1,<br />

Pivovarniška 2, tel. (+386) 1471 73 40, pivovarski.<br />

muzej@pivo-union.si, www.pivo-union.si. The Union<br />

Brewery has been providing quality beer to the masses for<br />

almost 150 years. The brewery’s museum, inside the same<br />

building that they make the stuff in the attic of the company’s<br />

former malt house, provides an intriguing insight into the history<br />

and development of beer-making in Slovenia with the aid<br />

of all manner of exhibits from life-size recreations to some of<br />

the beautiful old machinery that helped launch a thousand<br />

drunken nights. Visits need to be booked in advance, and<br />

include a tour of the current brewery, the screening of a<br />

short film, and of course the chance to sample some of the<br />

products. Q Open 08:00-13:00 on every first Tuesday of the<br />

month. Admission free.<br />

City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) B-3, Gosposka<br />

15, tel. (+386) 1241 25 00, info@mm-lj.si, www.<br />

mm-lj.si. A magnificent museum run by a team of historians<br />

who know how to show people a good time, showcasing<br />

Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history.<br />

Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this<br />

is the best place in town for a crash-course in city history.<br />

Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate<br />

costumes, old photographs and much more besides. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/2,50. English-language<br />

guided tours Sun at 13:00.<br />

Contemporary History<br />

Museum (Muzej<br />

Novejše Zgodovine)<br />

A-1, Celovška 23, tel.<br />

(+386) 13 00 96 10,<br />

w w w.muzej-nz.si. I f<br />

you needed a reason<br />

to visit Tivoli Park, it’s<br />

here. This fascinating<br />

museum inside a wonder-<br />

Matthew Armstrong<br />

ful 18th-century mansion<br />

presents the history of<br />

Slovenia from the period around the start of WWI until independence<br />

in 1991. Using a combination of well-presented<br />

exhibits including old photographs, clothing and household<br />

items the museum charts the often wobbly path of the nation<br />

through and between the two world wars and the difficult<br />

and truly fascinating post-war communist years. Q Open<br />

Tues - Sun 10:00-18:00, Thur 10:00-20:00. Closed Mon.<br />

Admission €7/3.50.<br />

International Centre<br />

of Graphic Arts<br />

(Mednarodni Grafični<br />

Likovni <strong>Center</strong>) A-<br />

2, Pod Turnom 3, tel.<br />

(+386) 1241 38 00,<br />

www.mglc-lj.si. Located<br />

inside the gorgeous 17thcentury<br />

Tivoli Mansion,<br />

this must-see attraction<br />

for anyone with even a<br />

Nena<br />

passing interesting in the<br />

visual arts contains a staggering 4 000 prints and over 4000<br />

artist’s books and other printed ephemera, mostly from the<br />

second half of the 20th century onwards and including the<br />

work of many of the great masters of European graphic arts.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Open Monday to Friday<br />

09:00-14:00, closed Sat-Sun & holidays. Admission €3.40/1.70.<br />

During the Biennial €6/3.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Ljubljana Card<br />

whAt to see<br />

Ljubljana Castle<br />

Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski<br />

Grad) C-3, Grajska Planota<br />

1, tel. (+386) 12 32 99 94,<br />

info@ljubljanafestival.si, www.<br />

ljubljanafestival.si. Perched<br />

on top of Castle Hill (Grajska<br />

Planota) and dominating the city<br />

skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s<br />

magnificent castle stands on the<br />

site of several former defensive buildings in a hilly area of<br />

land stretching away to the south of the old town. The<br />

current ensemble of buildings originates from necessary<br />

16th-century reconstruction work following the earthquake<br />

of 1511, with several later additions. Not unlike Kraków’s<br />

Wawel Castle in Poland, Ljubljana Castle has served as<br />

both a royal residence and a military barracks over the<br />

centuries. The current main points of interest for the visitor<br />

are both located inside the Outlook Tower (Razgledni<br />

Stolp), built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m<br />

by the communists in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Museum<br />

screens a 20-minute film in 3D, viewed with the aid of<br />

special glasses and a headset for an English translation,<br />

showing an interesting and informative history of the<br />

castle. On the same floor find a small door that takes you<br />

to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps,<br />

each individually decorated with an image of the tower<br />

and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to a small<br />

viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with wonderful<br />

views of the city. Underneath the tower and located down<br />

a small flight of stairs tucked away through a doorway in<br />

the corner of the courtyard is the diminutive St George’s<br />

Chapel (Kapela sv Jurija). Originally Gothic and remodelled<br />

in the Baroque style, the chapel is interesting for its 15thcentury<br />

wall paintings and not a lot more. The castle also<br />

has a small art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions,<br />

a café, souvenir shop and a branch of the city’s Puppet<br />

Museum. It’s also a popular place for local weddings, and<br />

during the summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a<br />

popular outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths<br />

lead up from the old town, or take the funicular next to the<br />

Puppet Theatre. Q Winter Hours:<br />

Castle & Café<br />

10:00-21:00 daily<br />

Viewing Tower & Virtual Museum<br />

10:00-18:00 daily<br />

Funicular Railway<br />

10:00-21:00 daily<br />

Viewing Tower & Virtual Museum<br />

€3.50 for adults<br />

€2.00 for secondary students, university students,<br />

seniors and groups (over 15 people)<br />

Castle tours<br />

€5.00 for adults<br />

€3.50 for secondary students, university students and<br />

seniors.<br />

The Ljubljana Card offers reductions<br />

of up to 35% on admission fees, taxi<br />

rides, shop prices, car rental and other<br />

expenses. The card is valid for 72 hours<br />

and costs €12.52. Find it for sale at all<br />

tourist information centres and at various hotels, businesses<br />

and shops, or order it at www.ljubljanacard.com.<br />

December 2009 - January 2010<br />

3

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