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Mega Center, Savska cesta 34, Kranj - Format'Age

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2 wine tAsting<br />

As would be expected from a country which borrows the<br />

lyrics for its national anthem from a poem entitled The<br />

Toast, winemaking and viticulture hold a special place in<br />

the hearts and minds of most Slovenes. With hundreds of<br />

individual vineyards - most of which are small to mediumsized<br />

family run affairs - spread across several different<br />

wine-growing regions, choosing where to visit during a<br />

short stay can be a daunting task. We’ve tried to include a<br />

wide range of options below, but as you can see, our slight<br />

bias towards and geographic proximity to the west of the<br />

country has left those regions (especially Goriška Brda)<br />

more well-represented than their counterparts in the east.<br />

But when it comes to tasting wine and visiting vineyards,<br />

in Slovenia you can’t really go wrong.<br />

Western Slovenia<br />

Brda Tel. (+386) 53 95 95 94, info@obcina-brda.si,<br />

www.brda.si/en. Occupying 72km² of rolling hills between<br />

the Soča River and Italian border, Brda is one of Slovenia’s<br />

foremost wine-growing areas and only an hour’s drive from<br />

Ljubljana. Often described as a miniature version of Tuscany,<br />

every hill seems to be topped with a large church (there are<br />

actually only 30 in all) surrounded by a charming little village,<br />

while the hillsides and valleys in between are blanketed with<br />

vineyards, orchards and winding country roads. Aside from a<br />

few larger estates and one cooperative, most of the vineyards<br />

are smaller family-run operations, and almost all offer some<br />

combination of wine tastings, tours, meals, accommodation<br />

and of course wine sales. The region is also known for its<br />

traditional Italian-influenced cuisine, and a trip to Brda without<br />

enjoying a slow multi-course meal on a terrace overlooking<br />

the vineyards almost defeats the entire purpose. The tourist<br />

information office at Dobrovo Castle is well-stocked with<br />

multi-lingual maps, brochures and other literature, and a great<br />

place to start for first-time visitors.<br />

Cantina Simčič Ceglo 3b, Dobrovo, tel. (+386) 53 95<br />

92 00, fax (+386) 53 95 92 01, info@simcic.si, www.<br />

simcic.si. Marjan and Salko Simčič operate one of the most<br />

widely known and respected vineyards not only in Brda or<br />

Slovenia, but the entire region. Their estate covers 16 hectares<br />

with roughly half on either side of the Slovene-Italian<br />

border. The family has been producing wine commercially<br />

since 1860 and currently turn out 80,000 bottles per year,<br />

which are exported around the world. Tastings can be arranged<br />

for groups as large as 30 people, but advance booking<br />

is a must. QClosed Sun.<br />

Erzetič Višnjevik 25A, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel. (+386) 53<br />

95 94 60/(+386) 41 64 31 14, erzetic.visnjevik@volja.<br />

net, www.vina-erzetic.com. Located in the unassuming<br />

village of Višnjevik, the Erzetič winery offers one of the more<br />

Stirring the amphora at Erzetic<br />

unique wine tasting experiences in the Brda region. Dating<br />

back to 1725, the family-run estate produces up to 80,000<br />

bottles per year - several varieties of which have been decorated<br />

at internnational competitions, including the prestigious<br />

Decanter World Wine Awards. They’re also one of only two<br />

wineries in Slovenia to produce wine using large ceramic vases<br />

called amphoras - which were specially-built in in Georgia and<br />

give the wine a very distinctive earthy flavour.<br />

Klinec Homestead Medana 20, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel.<br />

(+386) 53 95 94 08/(+386) 31 33 94 63, nejkak@yahoo.com,<br />

klinec.si. More than just a winery or tourist farm,<br />

the Klinec homestead is a truly one of a kind place. The small<br />

family-run operation produces a range of exquisite organic<br />

wines and serves an array of mouth-watering seasonal dishes<br />

following traditional recipes and cooking methods of the Brda<br />

region. They also play a central role in Medana’s thriving arts<br />

scene, hosting well-known painters and sculptors for a weeklong<br />

festival every October, as well as various jazz concerts,<br />

film viewings and poetry readings throughout the year. Q<br />

Open Fri 19:00-23:00, Sat 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, Sun<br />

12:00-16:00 and Mon-Thu by arrangement.<br />

Poljšak Gradišče pri Vipavi 39A, Vipava, tel. (+386) 53<br />

66 53 59/(+386) 41 44 10 01, samo.poljsak@volja.<br />

net, users.volja.net/spoljs. The award-winning Poljšak<br />

family winery occupies a four-hectare estate in the sunny<br />

and wind-swept Vipava Valley, a region especially known for<br />

its prized Zelen wines. The ancient, autochthonous grape<br />

variety of the same name is native to the valley, and production<br />

runs are kept small and strictly controlled in order to<br />

guarantee the highest quality. Situated just off the motorway<br />

between Postojna and Nova Gorica, Vipava is only a half<br />

hour drive from Ljubljana and can be easily combined with<br />

surrounding sights.<br />

Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

Simčič (Karol & Igor & Marijan) Hum 8, Kojsko, tel.<br />

(+386) 53 04 65 26, fax (+386) 53 04 65 27, info@vinosimcic.si,<br />

www.vinosimcic.si. First appearing in the local<br />

land registry back in the 19th century and covering some 32<br />

hectares of terraced vineyards today, Vrhunska Vina Simčič is<br />

one of the oldest and largest wineries in Brda. They produce<br />

a wide variety of white and red wines including Rebula, Pinot<br />

Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Sauvignon among the<br />

former and Merlot, Chabernet Sauvignon and Refošk (the<br />

so-called King of Reds) among the latter. Tours and tastings<br />

are available for both individuals and larger groups, but it’s<br />

always best to call at least a few days in advance to make<br />

arrangements. QClosed Sun.<br />

Valentinčič Tourism Podsabotin 48A, Kojsko, tel. +386<br />

41 65 19 39/+386 53 04 65 78, uros.valentincic@siol.net,<br />

www.valentincic.si. For nearly half a century the Valentinčič<br />

family has been producing wine in the fertile rolling hills of Brda.<br />

Specialising in fresh whites, including the region’s indigenous Rebula,<br />

the place is open to visitors year-round, although it’s always<br />

a good idea to call and make arrangements in advance. In addition<br />

wine tastings and tours, the family’s four-hectare estate also<br />

serves as a relaxing bed breakfast (the latter being quite tasty),<br />

with six rooms and one suite, all fitted with wooden furniture,<br />

modern amenities and ample amounts of rustic charm.<br />

Vinska Klet Goriška Brda Zadružna 9, Dobrovo,<br />

tel. +386 5 33 10 100, fax +386 5 33 10 109, info@<br />

klet-brda.si, www.klet-brda.com. This cooperative is the<br />

region’s largest wine producer and also boasts the country’s<br />

largest wine cellar, with a capacity of 18 million litres. Since its<br />

formation back in 1922, the cooperative has been the driving<br />

force behind Goriška Brda’s viticulture tradition, and has also<br />

taken an active role in promoting the region throughout Slovenia<br />

and abroad. Highly educational tours of the cellar along<br />

with wine tastings start at only €2.50 per person. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.<br />

Eastern Slovenia<br />

Galantes Wines www.vina-galantes.si, tel. (+386)<br />

2654 42 70. Part of a cooperative aimed at promoting naturally-grown<br />

products from the Štajerska region, they operate<br />

two wine cellars in the hills north of Maribor and can arrange<br />

tastings and guided tours in the surrounding vineyards. Check<br />

with the tourist information centre or more details.<br />

Jeruzalem (Prlekija Tourist Organisation) Jureša<br />

Cirila 4, Ljutomer, tel. (+386) 2581 11 05, fax (+386)<br />

2584 83 <strong>34</strong>, info@jeruzalem.si, www.jeruzalem.si. Legend<br />

has it that the vine covered landscape of the Ljutomer-Ormož<br />

hills, and the wine it produces, so enchanted passing crusaders<br />

that a good number of them found it difficult to continue on their<br />

quest to regain the Holy Land. Torn between religious fervour<br />

and Bacchanalian urges, it was decided that the most expedient<br />

solution would be to abandon their crusade and instead<br />

just name the highest hill in area Jeruzalem - which in hindsight<br />

may not have been the such a bad decision. Regardless of the<br />

legend’s historical accuracy, it’s a matter of fact that the region<br />

produces some of the best wine in the country, and its wine<br />

roads are well worth visiting. Check with the local tourist board<br />

for information on arranging accommodation and guided tours.<br />

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.<br />

Radgonske Gorice Slovenia’s first producer of sparkling<br />

wine has been turning out the bubbly stuff for over a century and<br />

a half now. Located only a few hundred metres from the Austrian<br />

border, their vast cellars are open for tastings, tours and even<br />

the odd wedding, while a sightseeing train makes its way though<br />

the thousand year old Radgona and Kapela districts.<br />

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com<br />

wine tAsting<br />

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December 2009 - January 2010<br />

3

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