RAINE MAGAZINE Volume 8 | Innovate

To simply categorize SoHo’s Tresanti as another brick
oven pizza restaurant would be a gross disservice
to its owner and executive chef. And that’s my point:
this “nouveau trattoria”, which features real brick
oven pizza in addition to numerous classic and
modern Italian dishes, has an executive chef. Veteran
restauranteur Jerry Longi has entrusted his family’s recipes with
rising star John Navarria’s innovative yet grounded culinary brilliance.
Navarria’s infusion of his classical French roots, the Longi recipe
vault, and modern kitchen ingenuity is peppered throughout Tresanti’s
diverse menu.
As I escaped the din of the nearby Holland Tunnel and entered
the festive yet subdued classical jazz soundtrack of Tresanti, I was
greeted under dimmed lights by an amicable bartender in front of
a well-stocked mahogany stage. There was a warm ambiance and
classy, unpretentious air that was conveyed through its spirited but
humble owner as well as its knowledgeable and personable staff. The
authentic wood-burning brick oven imported from Italy served as the
centerpiece of the sunken lounge dining area, which was encased by
an arena of mahogany-framed windows.
After sampling from their extensive wine menu and munching on
oven-fresh garlic flatbread (a light and delicious bread substitute),
I began my night with selections from Tresanti’s fairly standard
“antipasti” menu. While their dry calamari left something to be desired,
the fresh tuna tartare with avocado mousse and chili oil, as well as the
Peroni-steamed little neck clams with pancetta and diced tomatoes,
illustrated some of Tresanti’s aforementioned delicious ingenuity. In
terms of their dozen signature thin-crust pizzas, I tried the standard
Margherita; a pesto pie with oven-roasted chicken and house-made
mozzarella which was highlighted by Longi’s rousing rendition of the
classic sauce.
Had I opted to fill up on their array of pizzas, which was a tempting
proposition, I would have missed out on what distinguishes Tresanti
from most other restaurants of its kind. The menu was divided into
two distinct sections of entrees, the first of which featured staples
like chicken parmigiana, pastas, and seafood risotto. The homemade
lasagna with sausage bolognese was hearty and delicious, but the
pan-crisped truffle gnocchi with crispy pancetta and prosciutto finished
with a brown butter sauce was nothing short of spectacular. The
latter section, aptly named “Innovativo”, served as an exhibit of Chef
Navarria’s French-infused progressive wizardry. Highlights included
a delicate grilled fillet of orata, a light and delicious Mediterranean
response to snapper, garnished with grilled cauliflower florets and a
brown butter citrus vinaigrette. French-inspired dishes like braised
rabbit with smashed Yukon Gold potatoes and a tangy pancetta
and currant reduction, as well as pan-roasted duck with cranberry
compote and a dense but light cornbread stuffing, made me almost
forget about the pizza.
I somehow managed to enjoy Tresanti’s homemade desserts next,
saving room for two trademark Italian confections. The Italian
cheesecake was tangy, creamy, and light, but with rewarding
substance, and their glass-encased tiramisu won points not only for
taste but presentation as well.
Tresanti clearly exceeded my expectations of what I thought
I was going to experience upon dining at a brick oven pizza
restaurant/”trattoria”, because oftentimes the latter term is casually
tossed around by restaurateurs like a football. In the case of Tresanti,
though, they not only capture the essence of what a modern-day
trattoria should be, but they deliver their message and style in a such
an unpretentious manner. Jerry Longi and Chef Navarria have married
their respective styles and culinary roots to spawn a refreshing, and
winning, downtown venue.
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