Bowie Style

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Unfair, yes, but kind of understandable. During the early Seventies, Bowie gave the guise of being controlled and manipulative when in fact he flailed about in a vortex of fame and infamy that threatened to destroy him. His audience recognised the cracks and celebrated him for living a knife-edge existence where his ‘self’ was in a state of perpetual collapse. Everything he’d invested in his Ziggy and Aladdin creations -apocalyptic fame, divided self, death-drive -rebounded back on the all-too human David Bowie, who spent the rest of the decade attempting to make sense of his lot. The Nineties has seen the emergence of a quite different Bowie, one who, after years of pillaging guises and styles from others, has derived his raw material from his own career. In synthesising his cultural trailblazing of the Seventies and the clean-up boy of the Eighties, he’s struck perhaps his most uncharacteristic pose yet: a David Bowie who finally seems at peace with himself. This seemingly unholy union has brought with it some dodgy, George Michael-styled facial hair and a good deal of tiresome, publicity-seeking internet activities, but all this seems churlish when measured against the balancing act he’s seemingly achieved between private contentment and worthwhile public works - not to mention occasional flashes of revived musical genius.
“The union jacket was designed by myself and Alexander McQueen. I wanted to recontextualise Pete Townshend’s jacket of the Sixties, but then I got a bit carried away and thought it would look rather nice as a frock coat. Then Alex got even further carried away and cut bits of it up. I thank you.”
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Gavin Evans/Retna: Front & back cov
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© MTV Europe: 140bl; G. Neri/ Sygm
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At manager Ken Pitt’s flat, Londo
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Only One Paper Left. New York, 1997
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Yes, Bowie’s project was about st
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ultimately, Bowie is less about tra
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SHAPING UP As early as 1962, Bowie
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1.1 The Buddha Of Suburbia Suburbia
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The boy David. By 1953 the Jones fa
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May 1964. Tonight, Matthew, I’m g
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Superstar to the hilt. Only favoure
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Tolkien, would be played out to the
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Bowie dressed in a quilted black pl
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When you’re a boy, they dress you
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Almost Grown. “He was always into
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I’M YOUR FAN Bowie celebrated his
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Suede Twenty years later, the “I
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A rare publicity shot of The Kon-ra
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The dilated pupil in Bowie’s left
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music, Wendy Carlos’s Moog take o
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Bunuel and Dali’s surrealist shor
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Garland for the rock generation”.
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some of that locally in Bromley, bu
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Portrait of a young man as an art b
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are O-level pass in the subject. Hi
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Fulham, 1995, with samples of his w
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Walter Gramattè’s 1921 canvas, S
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Afro/Pagan And Work 1975-1995, a re
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Bowie recently revamped The Crowd P
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The Mannish Boys in Maidstone’s M
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Safely inside the BBC Television Ce
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Elvis Presley “I saw a cousin of
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Jacques Brel Bowie discovered Belgi
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loved her,” there’s a very high
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mainman Marc Bolan, whose revivalis
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change. He’d briefly called himse
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MICK ROCK Bowie, pictured with phot
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“It was all done on a shoestring
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he’d sign anything without readin
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1.3 Renaissancemanbowie In paisley.
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hard concepts to put into song, tho
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GAY GAMES This European CD of Sixti
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other that I took home and neatly f
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ock a potent spokesman.” A year l
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liberating effect Bowie had in unlo
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deal after Bowie’s 1967 LP floppe
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Ken Pitt: “Now you see the genesi
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Bowie seized his moment. He attende
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At the Beckenham Free Festival. “
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‘Hole In The Ground’ is a littl
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Bowie’s continuing interest in Bu
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inflicted my taste for the theatric
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dark days of the mid-Seventies, he
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The late Sixties quest for alternat
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might be. In another song, ‘Width
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A paint-splattered Ziggy doing some
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A rare colour shot of Growth’s Su
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At the BBC’s Paris Cinema Studios
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Mick Jagger The spectacle of these
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John Lennon They never shared a sta
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Tin a Turner Bowie was regularly se
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1.5 The Man Who Bought The Dress In
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Long tresses and long dresses. “O
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Most Sixties and early Seventies ro
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Showing off designer footwear, 1971
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Trouser rehearsal for The Man Who S
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oo style like Veronica Lake’s. Mo
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Lauren Bacall Veronica Lake.
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I FELT LIKE AN ACTOR As the anarchi
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As Thomas Jerome Newton in The Man
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CLASSIC CREATIONS
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of the decade he’d succumbed to t
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of those four guys, although aspect
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Lucky numbers. Ziggy plays guitar i
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STARMAN: SECOND BITE Black shoes, w
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Stardom, as John Lennon was fond of
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the QE2. But a punishing work sched
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Bowie’s mind during 1971 and the
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As Bowie and his Ziggy doppelganger
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When I first wrote it was just an e
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THE ZIGGY ENIGMA Bowie’s most eni
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keen to stress the importance of th
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throwback to the first idol of Glam
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The Nazz, Todd Rundgren’s band.
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The Aladdin Sane lightning bolt was
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‘Drive In Saturday’ was also pe
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these girls try to get me over to t
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John Hutchinson. The threesome appe
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Kornilof, a costume and set designe
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never been central to their relatio
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Ava Cherry, the funk-soul sister. W
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Paris, May 1976. Dalliances with Je
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With Iman at London’s Cork Street
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No outfit was out of bounds to Bowi
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“This was the first Japanese cost
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Bogart, Sinatra, right and below),
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switched again, to Marlboro Lights.
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made it more durable than its prede
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Watch That Man. At New York’s Rad
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MIND YOUR OWN BUSINESS A man of wea
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with her own bank account. David Bo
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Bowie’s flagging creativity. Igno
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2.3 Soul Survivor At the Amstel Hot
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the heat out of Bowiemania, and wit
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previously,” Bowie insisted. He w
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“To this day he was the most extr
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Aleister Crowley The so-called Wick
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Nazism The power of a modern media
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David Bowie circa 1974 is not rock
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above the audience, were cradled by
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Never mind the quality, feel the wi
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The Mask. Performing ‘Aladdin San
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The wedge cut -Phil Oakey was intri
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Bauhaus Oh dear. Punk met Glam and
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Japan David Batt enjoyed the “cra
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Not many people needed Leo Sayer (a
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Psychedelic Furs Richard Butler tho
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Bowie gets ready to ‘wave’ to t
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Fashion! Turn to the right. Bowie:
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Bowie tried out different outfits e
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“All my reading in that particula
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Decked out like a Christmas tree. A
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“The audiences are always about o
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“I’d got this thing in my mind
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Duke Of Earl. Bowie had recorded a
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‘Be My Wife’. Bowie filmed a vi
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different thing to saying it needs
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changed outfits - but his real wort
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Bowie/Visconti at the Daily Mirror
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2.5 Punk Pierrot Bowie gives a twir
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At a VIP gala premiere of The Man W
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This Ziggy-era reissue of Bowie’s
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Photographed by Snowdon, June 1978.
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anner was draped over a balcony at
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Dallas, April 1978: with hooded mic
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“I think (music) should be tarted
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Costumes and comments by Natasha Ko
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ERASE & REWIND Come Blow Your Horn.
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Page 289 and 290: Proof that the deification of David
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Page 334 and 335: On stage in the Nineties. Tin Machi
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Page 340 and 341: In 1996, Bowie’s hair made an ata
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Bowie Style

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