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Q & A (continued)<br />

water-white lacquer. The trick is to get<br />

the finishing material to contact the<br />

wood and dry at the same time, so the<br />

carrying agent (alcohol, thinner or turpentine)<br />

has no time to enter the pores<br />

of the wood and darken it . I would use<br />

an air brush of the type commercial<br />

artists use, or a mouth sprayer, which<br />

you can buy for a couple of dollars at an<br />

art-supply store. Regulate it to spray as<br />

much air and as little finish as possible,<br />

and hold it far from the work. The rust<br />

coat must be infinitely light and thin.<br />

Succeeding applications can be a little<br />

heavier, but you must not rush. It will<br />

take a certain amount of skill and a<br />

great deal of patience. You could also<br />

try two coats of a dilute, lukewarm solution<br />

of bleached hide glue, well<br />

sanded, under any clear finish ."<br />

To Harold Kauffman, who makes<br />

clock cases of pine and is plagued by<br />

pitch streaks breaking through his walnut<br />

stain and varnish : George Frank<br />

replies, "This is an age-old problem<br />

and the easiest way to deal with it is to<br />

select a better grade of pine with less<br />

pitch. The second solution, which I<br />

learned in school but have never tried,<br />

is to wash down the pine before finishing<br />

with a fairly strong solution of lye,<br />

rinse with clear water, let dry and sand.<br />

The lye should remove most of the<br />

pitch, and it would increase the contrast<br />

between the hard and soft grain,<br />

making the pine more attractive. A<br />

third way, which I have done, is to set a<br />

match to the pitch and burn it out,<br />

then clean the hole and fill with tinted<br />

plaster or stick shellac. The difficulty is,<br />

you can do it only when a teardrop of<br />

pitch is visible on the wood."<br />

Guy Bradt of San Carlos, Calif. , believes<br />

the problem is caused by improper<br />

seasoning, " since it takes a minimum<br />

of 1380 F to crystallize pitch in<br />

ponderosa and sugar pine. I suggest<br />

putting the blanks for the case parts in<br />

the oven at 1500 F for half an hour.<br />

This seems to eliminate bleeding."<br />

Reader Jonathan Wagman of Ulster<br />

Park, N. Y., asks : "How shall I finish<br />

my redwood picnic table and benches?<br />

The store advised a redwood stain,<br />

which turned out to be mostly paint<br />

and flaked off. We've sanded it down<br />

to the bare wood."<br />

Frank replies : " Redwood is so beautiful<br />

it doesn't need any stain to en-<br />

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