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Q & A (continued)<br />
water-white lacquer. The trick is to get<br />
the finishing material to contact the<br />
wood and dry at the same time, so the<br />
carrying agent (alcohol, thinner or turpentine)<br />
has no time to enter the pores<br />
of the wood and darken it . I would use<br />
an air brush of the type commercial<br />
artists use, or a mouth sprayer, which<br />
you can buy for a couple of dollars at an<br />
art-supply store. Regulate it to spray as<br />
much air and as little finish as possible,<br />
and hold it far from the work. The rust<br />
coat must be infinitely light and thin.<br />
Succeeding applications can be a little<br />
heavier, but you must not rush. It will<br />
take a certain amount of skill and a<br />
great deal of patience. You could also<br />
try two coats of a dilute, lukewarm solution<br />
of bleached hide glue, well<br />
sanded, under any clear finish ."<br />
To Harold Kauffman, who makes<br />
clock cases of pine and is plagued by<br />
pitch streaks breaking through his walnut<br />
stain and varnish : George Frank<br />
replies, "This is an age-old problem<br />
and the easiest way to deal with it is to<br />
select a better grade of pine with less<br />
pitch. The second solution, which I<br />
learned in school but have never tried,<br />
is to wash down the pine before finishing<br />
with a fairly strong solution of lye,<br />
rinse with clear water, let dry and sand.<br />
The lye should remove most of the<br />
pitch, and it would increase the contrast<br />
between the hard and soft grain,<br />
making the pine more attractive. A<br />
third way, which I have done, is to set a<br />
match to the pitch and burn it out,<br />
then clean the hole and fill with tinted<br />
plaster or stick shellac. The difficulty is,<br />
you can do it only when a teardrop of<br />
pitch is visible on the wood."<br />
Guy Bradt of San Carlos, Calif. , believes<br />
the problem is caused by improper<br />
seasoning, " since it takes a minimum<br />
of 1380 F to crystallize pitch in<br />
ponderosa and sugar pine. I suggest<br />
putting the blanks for the case parts in<br />
the oven at 1500 F for half an hour.<br />
This seems to eliminate bleeding."<br />
Reader Jonathan Wagman of Ulster<br />
Park, N. Y., asks : "How shall I finish<br />
my redwood picnic table and benches?<br />
The store advised a redwood stain,<br />
which turned out to be mostly paint<br />
and flaked off. We've sanded it down<br />
to the bare wood."<br />
Frank replies : " Redwood is so beautiful<br />
it doesn't need any stain to en-<br />
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