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Editorial
Editor
Alan Wilson
Assistant Editor—Office Manager
Diane Coussens
Associate Editor
Laurie MacBride
Associate
Howard Stiff
Webmaster
Ted Leather
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Marty Wanless, Herb Clark,
Rajé Harwood, DRM Mailing
Bookkeeper
Margaret Dyke
Advisor
Mercia Sixta
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Tourism—A Vital Force for Peace
Up until September 2001, the world’s biggest industry was tourism, at
nearly $5 trillion per year. In the year 2000 alone, after a decade of amazing growth,
tourism grew at 7.4% to reach almost 700 million international tourism arrivals.
During all this time WaveLength was working hard to make ecotourism a bigger part
of the whole—showcasing paddling-based ecotourism as a model of sustainability,
demonstrating its sensitivity to environments, wildlife and indigenous cultures.
The fact that tourism had become the biggest industry on this planet was an enormous
source of hope to me after the dark days of the Cold War when the arms trade
had been the pinnacle of world commerce.
While some forms of the recent growth in tourism are less than admirable—such as
cruise ship travel with all its associated pollution—the dedication by governments of
large wild spaces in the ‘90s (parks, preserves, refuges) was very heartening.
“When the world finally figures out that standing forests are worth more than
logbooms,” I thought, “things are really going to change around here!”
Then came September 11th. Travel fell off sharply and only part of the lost ground
has been recovered. The figures aren’t all in yet but I wouldn’t doubt that tourism has
been bumped from top spot by the resurgence of military spending as fear and violence
have increased around the world.
This is obviously the wrong direction. The World Tourism Organization says it best:
“Tourism represents a vital force for peace and a factor of friendship and understanding
among the peoples of the world”. We want more tourism, not less.
We also need to understand the impacts of tourism declines for under-developed
countries around the world. The employment created by tourism is of great strategic
importance, particularly in countries that have few alternatives for job creation.
Fortunately, the adventure traveler sector is among those least likely to be adversely
affected by current fears. Adventure travelers are used to risks and are looking for experiences
which involve contact with other cultures and environments.
These people exemplify the best of travel, attempting to learn from other cultures,
helping to create strong local economies which value preservation of natural environments
and wildlife. And best of all, adventure travel is... well, an adventure! Who knew
that working for peace could be this much fun?
© Alan Wilson
INSIDE
Volume 12 Number 3
5 A Chile Winter
JAMES MCBEATH
7 Viva Cuba!
JACQUELINE GOLSBY
8 Cuba 101
GORDON ROBINSON
11 Travelling With Film
CHRIS HUDSON
12 Dancing With Dolphins
DEREK BERLINER
14 Sea Kayaking Cape Town
RON IRWIN
15 Close Call
COLIN BARTLEY
16 Brazilian Beaches
GUIDO BOTTO
18 Floating on the Sea of Cortez
BARBARA SPENCER
WaveLength is a member of TAPS (Trade Association of Paddlesports)
Ph: 360-855-9434. www.gopaddle.org
21 Hidden Charms of Mangroves
BRYAN NICHOLS—COLUMN
COVER:
‘Blissed in Belize’
Photo: Leisure Works Images/Global Adventures
24 Mmmmmm Magic
RICK PALMER WITH DEB LEACH—COLUMN
26 Winter Whitewater
STEVE CROWE—COLUMN
28 A Holiday to Remember!
DAN LEWIS—COLUMN
29 ‘Our Summer Vacation’
ALAN WILSON—COLUMN
33 Springer’s Reunion
ALEXANDRA MORTON—COLUMN
35 Follow the Sun
TED LEATHER—COLUMN
36 Winter Getaways Directory
38 Unclassified Ads
40 For Sale, News
41 Great Gear, New Kayaks, Books
46 Calendar
4 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

A Chile Winter
There I am, taking those last few strokes
in the calm rippled water, just seconds
before outer serenity is equalized by inner
rage–the point of no return above a gigantic
rapid. As I reach the first massive reactionary,
kicking hard towards the ugliness
on the left, I realize where I am, realize that
this is finally it—Zeta!
But it couldn’t be. The water is too high,
I’m way off line, and I can’t open my eyes!
It’s a straightforward move and I have every
intention of running it, but not today. Oh
no! Can I pull it off? How did I get here?
Am I here? Why am I so calm, so cozy?
The rumble is so pervasive, so mesmerizing—it
must be Zeta. But this feeling of
sheer comfort, this softness all around me,
a child’s voice in the distance, a cow bell
ringing somewhere, confusion...
“DESAYUNO!” Then it all comes together!
The breakfast bells and the vitalizing
surges of the Futaleufú River 100 metres
away have woken me from another
deep sleep. OK, so I didn’t run Zeta that
morning, but I WILL!!
Five days ago I was transported from my
other existence: the never-ending race
against deadlines, in the effort to maximize
effectiveness and gain market share, to
change the world. To be honest though, the
transportation began months earlier when
I sealed plans to leave the concrete world
behind and disappear into the Patagonia
Mountains of southern Chile.
The journey took me past the 7,000 metre
peaks that encircle Santiago, then
1,100km further south to the harbor city of
Puerto Montt. From there, I took a final
sight-seeing flight along Chile’s southwestern
coastline, where the meeting of mountains
and ocean have left a remarkable
scene of scattered islands, inlets and estuaries.
After a last phone call home from the
tiny ocean-side village of Chaiten, I was on
my way up the Futaleufú Valley—into a
world where electricity to the farms and
homesteads has only become available over
the past few years.
Campo ‘Cara Del Indio’ is the base camp
for Kayak Futaleufu, and is found about 8km
up the 30km whitewater section of the Fu,
on the land of the Torro-Mundaca family,
who settled here many generations ago. The
camp’s name derives from the natural etching
of a native ‘Mapuche’ Chief’s face that
watches over the land from across the river.
The Toro-Mundaca family has worked
hard to turn their land into a paddler's paradise,
building private, riverside cabañas, a
cedar-sauna and cliff-top jacuzzi, and serv-
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
Ken Whiting boofs the last part of
Terminator rapid. (To ‘boof’ is to take a
stroke off a waterfall so that you land flat,
rather than penciling into the water below
where you might hit your bow on rocks.)
ing home-cooked Chilean meals designed
for the hungry boater.
Once settled into camp, I headed to the
gear shed to choose the kayak that I would
use for the week. The Fu is big water, but I
was happy to learn that save for a few
James McBeath
‘toughies’, its non-technical, playful nature
makes it great territory for play boats. Our
first two days were spent warming up on
some fun lower volume class 3 rivers. The
Rio Espolon and the Rio Azul are both tributaries
of the Fu that provide high quality
play and breathtaking scenery. The Espolon
runs alongside the remote village of
Futaleufú and is a perfect river for working
out any cobwebs. Our second day was
spent on the Rio Azul, named after the surreal
blue color of the water. The Azul was
slightly steeper and more challenging than
the Espolon, and it took us to some faster
play waves and through two of the most
stunning canyons imaginable. A day on the
Azul also provides a perfect opportunity to
get acquainted with the Fu, as the two different
shades of azure coalesce just above
a fun 3km section that has four progressively
bigger rapids.
Despite having two days to warm up, the
sheer volume of the Fu made my heart
pound fiercely, but I was ready! I cruised
through the first few rapids with surprising
ease and even found myself reaching a
comfort level with the huge rollers and high
speeds. It wasn’t long before I was actually
calling the river on for more!
Then came the grand finale of the day,
‘Asleep at the Wheel’. This effectively
quashed my newfound cockiness when an
enormous exploding wave decided to crash
on my head as I neared its crest. SLAM!
But after a quick roll and a sweet roller-➞
5

On our way to the 'Swinging Bridge' put-in.
coaster ride down the friendly 200-metre wave train that ensued, I
was back on the horse, sharing ‘Whoohoo’s’ at the bottom with the
rest of the gang! At the take-out, with cold beers in hand and stories
flowing freely, the group of us realized that we were hooked
on the big water. From now on, it was the Fu!
The next two days were some of the most exhilarating, playful
and rewarding paddling days of my life. We started with the ‘Camp
to Bridge’ section, sliding into the Fu from the beach right below
our cabañas. The section started with the frothy crashers of ‘Torro’
and the infamous ‘Mundaca’ (one of the classiest non-technical
big-water rapids in the world!), before dropping into ‘Limbo Canyon’,
where a series of five juicy class 3+ rapids elicited childish
hollers of silliness and “Did you see that?”s. The section ended
with a fantastic play hole just above the take-out at ‘Puente
Futaleufú’, where our instructors led many of us to our first cartwheel
sequences. After a quick lunch, we were far too pumped to
sit around and decided to repeat the run, dizzying ourselves at the
play hole once again until nearly dark. Confident with the day’s
events and pleased with ourselves, the group decided to attack the
entire ‘Bridge-to-Bridge’ section in the morning.
The ‘Bridge to Bridge’ section started a few kms above our Camp
at ‘Puente Colgante’ (‘Swinging Bridge’), with a series of exciting,
swerving wave train rapids. ‘Swinging Bridge Rapid’, ‘Magic Carpet
Ride’ and ‘Pillow’ are the names given to parts of this 3km
stretch of sheer pleasure. At Pillow, the entire river piles up onto a
gigantic granite boulder, folding over itself to create one of the
biggest curlers imaginable! With the comfort of a calm pool below,
this monstrous pillow is rendered nearly harmless and is a perfect
testing ground for your courage—the more you can summon, the
more of the pillow you’ll hit! After a stop halfway down for a snack,
we were off to Mundaca and
Limbo Canyon, which had
become more of a playground
for testing new lines.
So, as I now peel myself
out of bed and let the cool
morning air revive my wellworked
muscles, I feel a rush
of anticipation for the adventures
to come. Today, we’re
heading to the Upper Fu,
home of the river’s biggest
rapids, including Zeta and
Throne Room. This will be
an overnight, raft-supported
journey starting near Argentina
on the Espolon and taking
us through ‘Inferno Canyon’
to reach the legendary
‘Cave Camp’, tucked in the
woods beside the behemoth
known as Zeta! There is talk
of rock climbing, sleeping in
Ken Whiting surfing one of the
many perfect, glassy waves the
Futaleufú offers.
private caves, lounging in granite hot tubs, more fantastic whitewater
and a lamb roast fiesta when we finally pull up to our familiar little
beach tomorrow evening. Life does not get any sweeter!
I know it can’t last forever. I know we have ventured too many
lifetimes away from such a simple existence, but places like the
Futaleufú Valley are gems that you can pick up and hold onto for a
while. They keep you connected to a very important idea: that the
rivers and mountains were here long before us and will be here
long after we leave. In that way, they are magical. It also makes the
thought of damming, and forever changing one of these gems,
greedy, if not downright insane. Maybe instead of changing the
world, we should be focusing our energy on keeping it the same,
because the reality is that nothing could be better than a place like
this! ❏
© James McBeath is an ‘e-Strategist’ for Compuware Corporation,
and an avid kayaker. He is also a partner in Breathe, the holding
company for Liquid Skills and Kayak International.
© All photos by Paul Villecourt.
Kayak Futaleufú offers a variety of trip packages from the most basic,
to fully instructional week long programs with some of the
world's best athlete/instructors, including Ken Whiting, Chad
Hitchins and Kevin Varette. Check out: www.kayakfu.com, or email
info@kayakinternational.com. Also be sure to check out
www.futafriends.org for information on threats to the Futaleufú.
!
SEA KAYAK BAJA, MEXICO!
Join us on the spectacular coast of the Sea of Cortez.
Sea Kayaking ~ Mtn.Biking ~ Pack Trips ~ Sailing
Twenty years blending natural history & local culture
with great outdoor adventures.
• Non-skiff supported
• Leave-no-trace camping
• Professionally trained local guides
For more information and a FREE brochure, contact our US office:
Paddling South, PO Box 827, Calistoga, CA 94515
Call 800-398-6200 or 707-942-4550 or fax: 707-942-8017
info@tourbaja.com www.tourbaja.com
6 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

Viva Cuba!
Cuba—the name conjures up so many
images to so many people. Congas,
rumbas, salsa, laughter, Fidel, beaches,
reefs, islands, history and passion, to name
a few. Sea kayaking may not be the first image
to occur to you, but Cuba is also an
ideal kayaking destination.
Arrivals in Cuba seem to be fraught with
bureaucratic regulations carried out by uniformed
men and women who take themselves
too seriously. However, the dogs that
sniff your bags are cocker spaniels and there
are four older men playing Guantanamera
with flowers around their necks just on the
other side of the barrier. Just give your story
straight and you and your kayak are in.
Officially you have entered, let the
unofficialdom begin! On the 30 minute taxi
ride from the airport to the city of Havana,
you will start to notice the contrasts. There
you are in your ’90s Lada, grey vinyl seats,
air-conditioning, uniformed driver and his
foreign cologne. Up beside you pulls a turquoise
’57 Chevy with all the windows
down and a carful of Cubans on their way
to play music on the Malecon.
This crumbling, freeway-sized lovers’
lane leads you past the pounding Gulf of
Mexico to the Old Havana harbour. Here
there are cobblestone streets, Cuban music
(a fruitful marriage of African and Spanish
traditions), renovated 15th century architecture
at every corner, a church where
Christopher Columbus is said to be buried,
and in the courtyard, an old black woman
dressed in the garb of a Santerian priestess
puffing away on a Cohiba.
In Havana you will meet people from all
over the country, and they are all proud and
confident in telling you that the islands and
cayes in their province would offer the best
kayaking destination.
And there are lots of islands to choose
from in Cuba, approximately 1,600 of them.
So let’s fantasize for a moment. The Archipelago
de los Canarreos is a good place to
start as it is on the south side of the big
island, making these waters somewhat protected
from the northerly winds.
Picture an early morning flight taking you
to Cayo Largo where your modern jet might
be followed in by an elderly biplane. This
easternmost island of the archipelago barely
clears the surface of the emerald sea with
its gleaming white sands and royal palms.
It’s a resort destination where international
flights land direct from Europe and pale,
white-skinned people cross paths briefly
with their beach-tanned brethren. But
you’re looking for the marina and a
Beach near Holguin, Holguin Province.
mothership sailing vessel harboured here
among yachts from all over the world.
Once on board, your ship takes a westerly
heading towards Cayo Rico. You anchor
off the island and finally get into your
kayak and paddle out through transparent
turquoise waters to the reef. Anchoring your
kayak in the sand, you don snorkel and
mask and dive into that other world beneath
the waves. The reef is rich here and you see
giant spiny lobsters, nassau groupers,
yellowtail snappers and big jacks coming
out of the deep, all surrounded by the rainbow
hues of pristine coral. Needless to say,
your meals on board consist of a variety of
fresh seafood. It’s no wonder Hemingway
loved to fish in Cuban waters as the nutrient-rich
ocean currents ensure the presence
of beautiful deep sea fish such as marlin
and dorado.
The paddling here is good because there
are little groups of cayes close enough to
each other to explore by kayak. The cayes
have abundant wildlife such as iguanas,
green monkeys, flamingos, cranes, sea turtles,
and bee hummingbirds (known as
zunzuncito—the smallest bird in the world;
the male is about the size of a grasshopper).
On Cayo Largo there is Playa Tortuga
where if you come in the right season you
could possibly see turtles laying their eggs
in the sand.
But there is also much to explore inland
in Cuba, from historic cities and towns to
an enthralling natural landscape. In the
countryside, for example, you can bike or
horseride through the cave-rich karst landscape
of Pinar del Rio with its distant views
Jacqueline Golsby
of fertile valleys growing tobacco. Here old
men paint the landscape using their own
blood in the colours to show the red earth.
In Cuba many things are in the blood,
from the music, to confidence and pride in
the face of much difficulty. Street corners➞
SEA KAYAKING &
MULTI-SPORT TRIPS IN
BELIZE, CUBA,
PANAMA, VIETNAM
All-inclusive 3 to 12-day trips
Global Adventures
1-800-781-2269
(604) 947-2263
info@globaladventures.ca
www.globaladventures.ca
Gordon Robinson photo
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
7

Gordon Robinson photo
Santiago de Cuba
with horsedrawn carts and people gathered
on ancient bicycles are a stark contrast to
the gleaming dollar stores with their outof-reach
modern goods. In Cuba, the old
mixes with the new and through it all, the
Cubans’ island spirit lives on.
Cuba isn’t just a fantasy, of course. It’s
not far away, and the range of holiday opportunities
means it’s within reach of most
holiday budgets. ❏
© Jacqueline Golsby is with Global Adventures,
a Canadian company which offers tours to
Cuba and other tropical destinations.
info@GlobalAdventures.ca
www.GlobalAdventures.ca
1-800-781-2269
Cuba 101
Cuba is a paddler’s dream. It’s a country
of islands set in subtropical Caribbean
waters (the mean temperature of both air
and ocean is 26ºC (78ºF).
Over 900 different fish, 50 types of coral
and 1,500 shipwrecks populate the waters
around Cuba. The beaches vary from white,
gold, and black sand to pebbles, boulders
and various rock formations including lava.
In certain areas the coastline is made up of
huge mangrove swamps that are home to a
vast amount of different wildlife, including
35 endemic birds.
The main island is the 15th largest island
in the world, with a coastline of 7,000 km.
The underwater shelf that surrounds it is
one-half the size of the main island.
The main island has sharp contrasts that
are immediate and very striking. Within 200
Gordon Robinson
meters you leave an Arizona-type desert for
tropical jungle rainforest.
The western end of Cuba has conical
limestone hills called mogotes. These
mounds are honeycombed with long caves
and underground rivers.
There are two distinct seasons in Cuba.
The May to October season has short but
very heavy rainstorms. November to April
is dry and in some areas the flora turns from
lush green to grey/brown.
Cuba has a population of 12 million people
who are very friendly and well-educated.
All Cubans employed in the tourism
industry speak English. The ethnic mix in
Cuba is 65% European of Spanish background
and the remaining 35% are a racial
mixture of European, African and Chinese.
There are no native Indians in Cuba.
“Thank you
for doing such a great job for
us and all the work you and
your staff did to make our stay
with you a memory we’ll always
treasure. The kayaks
and gear worked out great,
you picked out perfect campsites
for us. The Amore Restaurant
was excellent too! We
have never had a more wonderful
time. We will definitely
be talking with you again for
our next trip.”
Bill & Myra
Saskatchewan, Canada
www.villasdeloreto.com
info@villasdeloreto.com
011-52-613-135-0586
Baja pioneers
8 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

Gordon Robinson photo
RESORTS: Over the past 10 years, offshore
companies have built many new resorts
in partnership with the government.
These new resorts are on the best beaches
and designed for the “sun and sea” tourist.
Most of them are all-inclusive, including
transportation to Cuba, your room, food,
liquor and entertainment. Most of these
resorts will offer free use of sit-on- top plastic
kayaks. They will also have HobieCats
and windsurfing boards. A retail outlet, car
rental desk and a tour agent will be on site.
The Sol Melia Corporation, a Spanish
company, is the largest hotel resort chain
operating in Cuba. This chain has 23 properties
in Cuba and over 300 worldwide.
Campsite Beach. Las Colorados, Granma Province
In order to enter Cuba, you must have a
valid passport and a return or onward ticket.
Most visitors are restricted to stays of 60
days. A tourist entry/exit card is normally
included in your ticket price or you can purchase
one upon your arrival in Cuba for
US$20.
The US dollar is used everywhere in
Cuba, and the Euro is accepted in major
tourist areas. The government also issues a
convertible peso that is equal to the US
dollar only in Cuba. There is little to buy
with this currency, but it does come in
handy at farmers’ markets and local bars.
Credit cards from non-US banks are accepted.
Debit card machines are scarce.
There is very little tourist-related crime
in Cuba. This is a law and order country
and Cuba is a full member of Interpol. If a
Cuban steals from a tourist, he can receive
six years in jail. However, in large cities,
one should always take care after dark and
never take jewellery on vacation.
Dealing drugs can result in a 30-year
prison sentence or worse! Sex with an underage
Cuban can put you in jail for 18 years.
University of Sea Kayaking
presents a 2-Volume Video Set
(120 minutes each)
Capsize Recoveries
• Assisted Recoveries
• Solo Recoveries
• Double Recoveries
• Sit on Tops
Rescue Procedures
• Hypothermia Review
• Dressing for Immersion
• Radio and Flare Demos
• Towing
Get your set and one for the partner who’ll save you.
$39.95 US
805-696-6966
www.useakayak.org
POPO‘S ADVENTURES
Whitewater rafting, sea kayaking,
monkey tours. Located at one of Costa
Rica’s best known surf breaks.
We have everything you’ll need to
explore Costa Rica’s vast wonders.
www.poposcostarica.com
poposca@racsa.co.cr
001-506-656-0086
ACCOMMODATIONS
HOTELS: Cuba has a very good selection
of new and older hotels. Some of the
older properties are classics of years gone
by and have recently been totally restored.
The National Hotel in Havana is a fine example
of bygone elegance. The Melia
Cohiba Hotel in Havana is a five-star property
that’s world class. However, most of
Cuba’s hotels are in cities and not on the
beach. Car rentals and tours can be arranged
for those wanting an out of the city
adventure.
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
9

Global Adventures photo
Their brand names are: Sol Melia, Sol Club, Tryp and Paradisos.
Superclubs are a Jamaican company and are the second largest
resort chain in Cuba. Over 20 international companies own and/or
manage properties on the islands (such as Club Med, Sandals, etc).
B&B’S: Cuba now has over 15,000 B&B’s called Casa Particulars.
These casas are, for the most part, located in the larger cities.
For vacationers who want a city adventure or desire the experience
of living the Cuban way, these rental rooms are the perfect answer.
Tourists are not allowed to stay overnight at private homes that are
not licensed. (For more info, try Raul at raul@ip.etecsa.cu).
CAMPSITES: Cuba has 87 campsites that have rental cabins. Most
of these sites are located on the ocean and range from basic to very
nice. The cabins have four bunk beds and are ideal for the budget
traveller. For a kayaker with a folding kayak these sites are the solution
for low-cost vacations. Most of these campsites have a restaurant
and during peak seasons the locals set up markets nearby.
this areas blends the old and the new of Cuba. It is ideal for trekking,
cave exploration, mountain-biking, horseback riding,
birdwatching and the opportunity to meet the people. Upon the
completion of your big island adventure, you fly to the tiny island
called Cayo Largo, a sandy island in a turquoise sea. Here you
board a large sailboat to start your marine adventure. This liveaboard
vessel is your home as you sail the Caribbean. The many
islands and reefs of this area are excellent for exploring by kayak
and snorkel, with clear days for birdwatching, fishing, scuba diving
and photography. Take lots of film or a digital camera!
Cuba 1 Tours of Courtenay, BC designs custom tours which can
include kayaking or any other interest. Tom Robertson has 10 years
experience with group travel to Cuba. www.cuba1tours.com
GIFTS
When one visits a developing country, it’s nice to take along
lightweight gifts to give away. There are many daily items needed
in Cuba. You should also take along everything you require, including
mosquito repellent. Remember that much of Cuba is still
back in the 1950s!
CUBA WEB PAGES
CUBA TRAVEL:
www.lonelyplanet.com/thorn/
REPUBLIC OF CUBA:
www.aduana.islagrande.cu
www.cubanacan.cu
www.gocuba.ca/eng/special.htm
www.cubaweg.cu/eng/index
MAPS:
www.cubamapa.com
www.cubanonet.com
www.horizontes.cu
www.cubatravel.cu
www.embacuba.ca
MAJOR HOTELS/RESORTS:
www.solmeliacuba.com
www.superclubs.com
CUSTOM ADVENTURE TOUR OPERATORS:
www.globaladventures.ca www.cuba1tours.com
www.conferencetours.com www.cuba.tc
www.cuatravelUSA.com
TOURS
Global Adventures of Bowen Island, BC offers tours which start
in Old Havana for a fascinating two days in one of the oldest cities
in the Americas. The next move takes you to Pinar del Rio in western
Cuba. Famous for its dramatic karst landscape and tobacco,
CASA PARTICULARS (B&BS):
raul@ip.etecsa.cu ❏
© Gordon Robinson has visited Cuba 30 times since 1993 and he is
currently completing a book on the country. In his opinion, the US
may lift travel restrictions to Cuba as early as this winter.
He can be reached at abuc12@yahoo.ca.
KAYAK BAJA IN STYLE
whale watching & desert wilderness
Call 800-616-1943
info@seakayakadventures.com
www.seakayakadventures.com
Gabriola Island
Waterfront Kayak & Dive Shop
Open 12 months a year.
Day and overnight trips to remote island.
Kayak rentals—$10/hr. Daily rates available.
Call 250-247-9753
www.hightestdiving.com
10 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

Traveling With Film
Are you heading off to some far flung,
tropical paddling paradise this winter?
Will you be taking a camera along to record
your adventure with photographs? Have
you thought about how valuable those photographs
will be to you and your paddling
companions when you get home?
It makes sense to treat your film as you
would any of the other valuable belongings
you travel with. Even more so, since
after you’ve taken your pictures you probably
won’t have the opportunity to repeat
that paddling trip and you will almost certainly
not be able to recapture those photographic
moments.
Unfortunately, film is perishable. Just like
that carton of milk going green in the back
of your refrigerator, it has a ‘best before’
date. There are also a number of other factors
that will speed up the souring of your
film (usually in the form of fogging, a shift in
color balance, loss of contrast or a change
in speed/ISO). The main culprits you will
likely be dealing with are heat, humidity,
abrasives and the dreaded airport security.
Here are some things you can do to help
ensure that the pictures on your film will
look as good as they possibly can:
• Always have film developed by its process
before date.
•Avoid the use of professional films.
Consumer grade films in general, are much
more tolerant of lengthy delays in processing
and less than perfect storage conditions.
• If you will be traveling/paddling in a
situation where you won’t be able to keep
your film out of the tropical heat, keep it in
a small cooler bag and open it up at night
when the air is a little colder.
• Keeping your film sealed in its original
plastic canister will help protect it from high
humidity levels. Once the film has been removed
from its canister, keep it in an airtight
container or bag with a packet of silica
gel.
Victoria: 250 383-2100
Nanaimo: 250 729-9500
Kelowna: 250 762-2110
TOLL FREE 1-800-667-1032
• Keep your camera
clean and free of grit at
all times. Pay particular
attention while you are
camped on that sandy
atoll in the South Pacific
or the desert
beaches of Baja. Be extremely
careful of
abrasives like dust and
sand while you have
your camera open to
change film.
AIRPORTS
The other issue you and your film will
have to grapple with, if you are flying to
your put-in, is airport security. Here is a list
of things that all travelers should be aware
of before heading out to the airport with
their bags packed full of film:
• Do not pack your film in luggage that
will be checked in. Checked bags are routinely
screened by Computed Tomography
(CT) and Explosive Detection Systems
(EDS). Film unlucky enough to be scanned
by these devices will definitely suffer significant
damage.
• The x-ray machines that inspect carryon
luggage in North America are, for the
most part, safe for film up to about 400 ISO.
However, the effects of the x-rays are cumulative;
most film will start to show fogging
after being scanned more than four
times.
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• 6 day kayak trips
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• Mainland Mexico bike tours
• Carry your film with you and politely
ask to have your film hand inspected. Pack
your film in a clear plastic bag to facilitate
an easy inspection. In North America you
shouldn’t have any problems having your
request granted.
• Outside of North America there is no
standard to x-ray machines and getting a
hand inspection done is definitely not guaranteed.
• Lead lined bags or pouches will help
lessen the damaging effects of x-ray machines
on film packed in your carry-on
bags. But the pouches will not protect your
film from the high intensity x-rays your film
may encounter in checked baggage.
• If possible have your film processed
before your flight home.
• The metal detector that you walk
through and the hand held device the security
guard uses will not affect film.
• Processed / developed film and digital
media are not affected by x-rays
Keep in mind that the security staff in airports
are not there to make your life difficult
or ruin your photos. They are performing
a vitally important and difficult duty.
Be as polite, patient and helpful as you can
and everyone will be better off for it. ❏
© Chris Hudson is a freelance photographer
recently replanted in Vancouver. He also runs
outdoor adventure/wilderness kayaking trips in
the Queen Charlotte Islands and on Princess
Royal Island. chris_hudson@canada.com.
A D V E N T U R E
Also 2-9 day summer trips to:
• Johnstone Strait/Knight Inlet
• Queen Charlottes
• Clayoquot Sound
• Nootka Island
• Broken Group
• or Gulf Islands Weekends
info@gck.ca
www.gck.ca
910 Clarendon, Gabriola Island, BC CANADA V0R 1X1
PH: 250-247-8277 FAX: 250-247-9788
Chris Hudson
O U T F I T T E R S
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
11

Dancing With Dolphins
Two very different seas wash the southern
chunk of the Cape Province of South
Africa—the cold waters of the Atlantic
Ocean to the west meet the warmer waters
of the Indian Ocean to the east. Although
too far south for coral reefs, the Cape peninsula
is rich in diverse marine species and
an excellent location for viewing marine
mammals—especially when it’s winter in
the northern hemisphere!
January 4th 2002 was one of those beautifully
calm, windless mornings, the sea like
a large glistening lake, the water swimmingpool
clear. I set off from Chapmans Bay and
the seaside village of Noordhoek, paddling
over the kelp beds, gliding just above the
canopy of these surreal seaweed forests—
the favoured habitat of the west coast rock
lobster. I skirted close to the rocky outcrops
lined with Cormorants hanging out to dry,
migrant Terns preening themselves, and the
endemic Oyster catchers, nervously strutting
about in their formal black attire and
cherry red beaks.
Being on the water and keeping silent
allows one an intimate and unobtrusive
approach to shore birds. With the early
morning sun warm on my back, the shrill
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cries of the sea birds, and the gentle lapping
of water on the sides of the kayak, I
drifted into a content and meditative state.
Then about 100 meters behind me, a
splash disturbed the calm. Startled, I spun
around. At last—dolphins!
Two or three dolphins leaped from the
water. My pulse raced as I paddled towards
them. I kept my strokes steady and smooth
hoping that this would not scare them. Then
the water around me came alive with sleek
moving bodies. I was surrounded by the
sounds from their blowholes—‘Pweewaha’—
as they cleared their breathing holes
and sucked in another breath before diving
again. Some came racing out of the
water a few meters from me, leaping clear
into the air, twisting and spinning, and coming
down with a splash. Others dived under
the boat, emitting a stream of bubbles
as they streaked through the crystal clear
water.
To my surprise, not all of these smiling
Derek Berliner
Derek wasn’t taking pictures during his dolphin encounter, unfortunately,
so here instead is a shot of Cape Point which gives a sense of the area.
and joyfull creatures were dolphins—
among them were a number of young seals,
apparently imitating the behaviour of the
dolphins. Young seals will occasionally,
hang out with dolphins (particularly when
the water is clear), but whether this is done
for protection, co-operative hunting or just
for the sheer fun of trying to out-swim each
other is not clear. But on this occasion it
seemed as if fun was the sole motive.
A young seal surfaced near me, and
rolled onto its back and clapped its front
fins together in an apparent gesture of applause.
It’s difficult not to be anthropomorphic
about this behaviour. I had to remind
myself that these creatures were completely
wild and free and had not been specially
trained for surprise performances, for humans
in kayaks.
There were about 40 dolphins and ten
seals. The dolphin pod appeared to be a
loose association of three or four family
groups, continually coming together and
Escorted Tropical Adventures
Brazilian Kayak Tours
250-714-5609 gbotto@shaw.ca
www.kayakingbrazil.com
Anita Jeffes photo
PH/FAX: 250/539-2442
kayak@gulfislands.com
www.seakayak.bc.ca/tour
12 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

moving apart, evidently keeping in continual
communication with one another,
displaying the so-called ‘power of the
pod’—the beauty of being a truly connected
group. The seals appeared to be accepted
as part of the pod.
These were the common dolphins
(Delphinus delphinus), with long smiling
snouts, white bellies, dark backs and the
distinctive hourglass pattern. They are not
seen much on the Atlantic side, more often
seen surfing in the waves in the Indian
Ocean. The word ‘common’ refers to their
geographically wide occurrence. This is
probably the same species depicted by the
ancient Minoans on the frescos of the Palace
of Knossos. The ancient Greeks held
dolphins in high esteem. It is said that they
modelled their society on the freedom and
self-discipline of dolphins. Interestingly, the
word ‘dolphin’ has the same roots as Delphi,
(seat of the most important ancient
Greek temple, and the oracle of Delphi),
meaning womb, source of life and wisdom.
To the Australian Aboriginal tribes, the Dolphin
is deeply sacred, being their wise, elder
brother. When an Aboriginal dies, his spirit
becomes a Dolphin.
After a while the group seemed to lose
interest in ‘entertaining me’ and started to
move off. By this stage I was quite elated.
The joy of dolphins is infectious—the healing
and serotonin-enhancing effects that the
presence of dolphins induce are well-documented.
Certainly everything seemed
brighter and clearer, and sparkled with
freshness.
To rekindle their curiosity I started to imitate
the sounds that they made clearing their
breathing holes and splashed the paddle
around, speaking to them in soothing tones.
This brought the pod racing back in my direction
and they proceeded to repeat the
whole performance, leaping and dancing
in the air. I started paddling out at a steady
pace. “Let’s race” they seemed to be saying
to me. They swam alongside the kayak, and
under the boat, every now and then one
Chapman’s Bay
would race forward and leap out in front of
the kayak, its smiling face a few meters from
mine.
The dolphin encounter lasted for about
half an hour, but seemed a lot longer. I felt
as if reality had been temporarily suspended,
and I had been transported into
their world.
Dolphins have the second highest brainto-body
weight ratio in the animal world,
only slightly less than that of humans (1.19
% for dolphins as apposed to 2.1% for humans,
and 0.7 % for Chimps). But their intelligence
has evolved in a different direction
to that of humans. Perfecting their relationship
to their environment, they have
no need for the polluting technologies that
appear to be essential for modern humans
to survive. A dolphin’s built-in sonar far
surpasses the performance of man-made
equipment. They can tell size, shape, texture,
and also density. Furthermore, no one
has, as of yet, been able to jam their sonar.
It would appear that dolphins live in a
state of sheer exuberant joy in being alive.
During encounters with them in the wild
we are reminded that this too is our inherently
natural state of being (so yearned for
by everybody yet so painfully inaccessible
to most of humanity).
While dolphins are more than willing to
share their world with humans, humans
continue to pollute and even persecute
them. Although dolphins enjoy protection
throughout most of the world, they are still
hunted in some parts, notably Japan and
Norway. In South Africa as in most parts of
the world they suffer from indirect perse-
Derek Berliner photo
cution from drift nets, and the bio-accumulation
of industrial and agricultural pollutants.
Eventually, the dolphins and seals disappeared
into the deep blue, and I paddled
back to the closest beach, to rest and assimilate
the experience. The beach was
desolate but for a lone horse rider who had
witnessed the encounter. She rode up to
me as I pulled the boat clear of the water.
“That must have been quite a treat,” she
said. ❏
© Derek Berliner is a South African specialist
in terrestrial ecology who has worked in Africa
and abroad in wildlife management, research,
training, consulting and biodiversity impact
assessment. He believes travel writing to be a
more effective way of getting environmental
values across to the general public than
technical and scientific reports.
eco-logic@mweb.co.za
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October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
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13

Johan Loots photo
Sea Kayaking Cape Town
Cape Town, South Africa is one of the most beautiful, challenging
and inexpensive places on earth to sea kayak. It offers the sea
kayaker not only limitless expanses of glorious beaches and unspoiled
seas, but the opportunity to paddle with a variety of animal
life, including seals, penguins and whales. With an excellent, established
infrastructure, readily available guides, and top of the
line equipment—as well as perfect weather day after day during
the season—Cape Town is one of the best places you can pick to
either learn the sport or refine your skills.
Johan Loots is a local kayaking guide and president of the Sea
Kayaking Association of South Africa as well as founder of premier
South African kayak manufacturer, Sea Kayak Productions. Below
he offers his insights on some of the most interesting spots to paddle
near the city.
Note: Gradings are based on Australia’s New South Wales Sea
Kayak Association and adapted to South African conditions by
RECSKASA (the Recreational and Commercial Sea Kayak Association
of South Africa—now changing to TASKS: The African Sea Kayak
Society). It is recommended in Johan Loots’ book Sea Kayaking;
The Essential Guide to Equipment and Techniques as a grading system
to be used worldwide by sea kayakers.
ATLANTIC SEABOARD Grading 4+ (transitional)
This route covers Cape Town’s prime coastal areas, from Sea Point
with its high-rise apartment buildings, to the popular beaches of
Clifton, Camps Bay and Llandudno, to the pristine shores of Sandy
Bay—Cape Town’s only nude beach. The sea conditions rarely allow
for the full route to be completed, meaning you’ll feel like
landing and taking in the scene at Camps Bay where beach volleyball
is played from dawn to dusk and the local watering holes beckon
thirsty paddlers. Have a beer at Barazza, recently rated one of the
Top 100 bars in the world!
HOUT BAY Grading 2-5+ (fair to advanced depending on the
weather and how far you venture into the bay)
Hout Bay is a secluded, beautiful bay surrounded by mountains.
Kayak guide at Hout Bay.
Ron Irwin
The local suburb has a laid back atmosphere as well as a few excellent
sea food restaurants. Offshore, Seal Island and the Sentinel
are legendary in the surf world, boasting waves up to twenty feet
when a big south-easter blows in. But when the wind is calm even
a beginner ought to be able to navigate these waters with ease.
Close to Seal Island you are guaranteed to be visited by seals as
well as the occasional playful dolphin. Between October and July
kayakers have come across more than 20 whales at a time.
THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE Grading 5+ (advanced)
This is the ultimate way to see Cape Point and the Cape of Good
Hope, both popular tourist destinations. Described throughout history
as “The fairest Cape”, the “Cape of Storms” and the “Cape of
Good Hope”, the Cape Peninsula’s southernmost tip has offered
great challenge to boaters for centuries. Although rounding the Cape
is tough, Loots considers it a “spiritual experience” and readily
takes strong, experienced paddlers around the point. The annual
Cape Point Surfski competition is held off these rocky, windy
beaches, which offer sea birds, steep cliffs, and a view of the famous
Cape Lighthouse.
WANT TO LEARN MORE?
Visit these web sites to get down to South Africa and get wet!
• Johan Loots’ Sea Kayak Site: www.seakayak.co.za. The best
place on the web to start your South African kayaking adventure.
Equipment, guides, and travel advice for the whole of
Southern Africa.
• Cape Town Tourism Site: www.cape-town.org. The place to
begin your Cape Town Odyssey.
• Wavescape: www.wavescape.co.za. A site devoted to South
African surf and water sports, this is the first place to go to
learn about the kind of water you can expect down here.
Great pictures.
• South African search engines: www.aardvark.co.za and
www.ananzi.com.
• Independent News Online, South Africa: www.iol.co.za. Local
news, weather conditions and updates. ❏
© Ron Irwin is a freelance writer and instructor at the University of Cape
Town, South Africa. He has written extensively about South Africa,
covering topics ranging from diving with the Great White
to mountain biking in the Cape wine lands.
14 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002
Johan Loots photo

Close Call
On Wednesday July 31st our tour had
a most amazing whale encounter.
The tour had just stopped off North Beach
on Hamilton Island for a break when one
of the guests shouted “look”. We all spun
to see the huge splash from a whale jumping
about 500m away. The whale jumped
again, this time closer, then started cruising
towards us, blowing each time it surfaced,
each time a bit closer. It did a big
arc then made a bee-line straight at us, surfacing
about 50m directly in front.
What happened next was awesome! Two
of the kayaks were about 5m apart with the
third kayak behind us so we formed a U
shape. We watched the whale swim directly
between the two kayaks, then surface with
a huge blow right in front of the third kayak.
It arched its back high out of the water then
slid gently underneath the kayak, almost
brushing the bow. The guests in the kayak
could have touched it with their paddles!
The cheeky bugger then began doing laps
around and under us, each time coming
up for a breath right next to the kayaks. We
were at its mercy. We just floated there as it
played around us for about five minutes,
hoping it didn’t want to get too playful!
Bowen Island
Sea Kayaking
Tours
Rentals
Lessons
Call to reserve
604-947-9266
BowenIslandKayaking.com
Close call in the land of Oz.
When it got bored, it took one last breath,
lifted its tail out of the water and said goodbye.
We recognised it as a juvenile humpback,
possibly half grown. This was our fifth whale
sighting for July but none have been this
close. ❏
Colin Bartley
© Colin Bartley, Sea Kayaking Whitsundays,
Hamilton Island, Queensland, Australia
seakayaking@whitsunday.net.au
www.seakayakingwhitsundays.com.au
Photo courtesy of Sea Kayaking Whitsundays
Sea Kayak Association of BC
Trips, training, monthly meetings,
newsletters, paddling contacts
www.skabc.org
membership@skabc.org
604-669-4492
Box 751, Stn. A,
Vancouver, BC V6C 2N6
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
15

Brazilian Beaches
Brazil is a country of contrasts—wealth
and poverty; densely packed cities and
untouched wilderness; great sophistication
and absolute simplicity; endless sandy
beaches and rugged forested mountain
ranges. Sao Paulo, with a population of 24
million, is the world’s largest city south of
the equator, yet just a 3-hour drive south is
the 500-year-old colonial port town of
Cananéia and the gateway to undeveloped
tropical paradise.
Nestled on the island of the same name,
in the coastal belt along the largest untouched
stretch of Tropical Atlantic Rainforest
of the Serra do Mar coast mountain
range, this little fishing town is the gateway
to the Lagamar region. Extending 110 km
along the coast, this region is a UNESCO
world heritage site, and has been declared a
natural sanctuary by the International Union
for Conservation of Nature.
With the exception of Cananéia and Ilha
Comprida, this area is sparsely populated
and none of the other islands have electricity
or cars. It is also the largest natural
nursery of marine species in the South Atlantic.
There are over 20 islands, some surrounded
by large natural canals fed by torrential
rivers, others exposed to the powerful
surf of the South Atlantic on one side
with the other fringed by a brackish canal
of tidal mangrove swamps sometimes
reaching 800 meters wide. Constantly
looming in the background is the coastal
range with peaks up to 900 meters high.
Guido Botto
Life is lived outdoors in Brazil. Warm water, sandy beaches, and great scenery
all make for an ideal winter paddling getaway.
One of the jewels of this collection of
islands is Cardoso, a favorite of biologists
for its rich and great variety of plant and
animal life, with 436 species of birds, the
largest diversity of birds on the Brazilian
coast. Of 986 species of plants, the island
has 118 species of orchids and 41 species
of bromeliads.
Several species on the verge of extinction
exist here, like the prized purplecheeked
parrot, the Scarlet Ibis, the Golden
Maned Sagui monkey, the spotted jaguar,
the spotted leopard cat, the peregrine falcon,
the tapir and others still thriving, like
the yellow-bellied alligators and the famous
‘pink’ dolphin, which has pearly rose sides
and belly. It is also home to many migrating
birds, and even penguins and sea lions
from the Antarctic.
The jungle is full of ferns, lianas, large
leaved creepers hanging from flowering
trees and shrubs, and colourful plants like
the bird of paradise and bromeliads attached
to branches or deadfalls, with large
red, pink and blue flowers.
On the Atlantic side of the islands, big
surf crashes onto white sandy beaches, and
the sea and weather are warm year round.
Here the frigate birds constantly wheel overhead,
while seagulls, cormorants and other
smaller birds forage the beaches for food.
On the inside, the mangroves are full of
brightly red and orange coloured tree crabs,
the much larger dark mud crabs—
‘caramuns’ as they are called—and several
gold-coloured, non-poisonous snakes
which feed on fish. Also seen are white
herons, and plump, dark-plumed, long-legged
mangrove feeders and spoonbills, as
well as kingfishers—both the smaller dull
brown ones and the larger, brighter ones in
hues of cream and blue. The eerie echoes
of the seldom seen mangrove warblers are
also heard.
With its ten beaches, most of them deserted,
this is a great region for paddling
adventures. Circumnavigating Cardoso,
Superagui or Peças islands offers paddlers
the greatest variety of scenic views and
challenging seas. Big surf is encountered
all along the ocean side of populated Ilha
16 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002
Guido Botto photo

cal community which decries music, where
the womenfolk wear dresses down to their
feet and their hair to their waists.
There are many old shipwrecks all along
the coast, which is a draw for divers. On
the ocean side of this island too, beach
landings are often tricky due to the steep
slopes of the beach and the big surf.
BRAZIL IN GENERAL
Brazil is is a huge country, largely covered
in lush tropical rainforests. The Amazon
basin alone has one-fifth of all the earth’s
fresh water reserves. With a coastline of almost
8,000 kilometers of sandy beaches, and
boasting a warm climate year round, Brazil
offers some of the most pleasant leisure spots
in the world. Bathed by the warm waters of
the southern Atlantic Ocean, it’s perfect all
year round for diving, swimming, snorkeling,
surfing and kayaking.
Brazil has a Portuguese-speaking population
of 170 million, of which 70% are
Roman Catholic. It is a peaceful, economically
stable democracy, the 9th largest
economy of the world. In many coastal areas
there are lots of excellent 4 and 5 star
hotel resorts and sophisticated little inns.
Brazilians are an extremely friendly,
warm, extroverted people. The hot climate
allows them to spend most of the time out-
Comprida, a long, low island,
along Ilha Cardoso and
Superagui. Setting out to sea
or making surf landings here
always poses a challenge,
since it means running the
gauntlet through surf from 6-
10 feet high, extending a few
hundred yards.
But on Cardoso you can
get home cooking and
seafoods at inexpensive
prices from the simple, gentle
people here who still cling
to their centuries’ old lifestyles,
fishing and planting,
with few modern devices or
electricity.
About 500km further south, in the State
of Santa Catarina, the beautiful island of
Florianopolis beckons with its 100 sandy
beaches, many of which are a surfer’s paradise.
This area has had a great Portuguese
influence on its culture, architecture, festivities,
fishing and agriculture, by people
coming from the Azores islands in the Atlantic
(originally colonized by the Portuguese),
who settled on this Island in the
south of Brazil centuries ago.
This region of Brazil is very beautiful but
far more populated, with sophisticated tourist
resorts and first world-class hotels and
restaurants. The coast on the inside is
densely populated, while the external south
side is far less so. Here too are the Three
Sister Islands, a little cluster of islands an
hour’s paddling off the coast.
On this ocean side of the island, just
north of Santinho beach, is a rocky stretch
with Indian rock paintings over 5,000 years
old. Further south is the island’s famed
Galhetas nudist beach.
In the middle of the island are two large
fresh-water lagoons, surrounded by mountains.
The island also has some very large
sand dunes, which are the delight of ‘sand
boarders’ or ‘dune surfers’, who imitate the
antics of snowboarders in colder climes.
Further north off the coast, a little south
of Rio de Janeiro, is a region of over 370
islands. The largest, Ilha Grande, offers great
paddling adventures. Here too the ocean
side of the island is the least inhabited, in
fact almost totally deserted except for a few
small fishing settlements on two beaches.
The island has many historic sites and ruins.
Freguesia de Santana Leste beach has
a church dating from 1796 with pirates buried
in its cemetery as well as a house which
used to belong to a famous Spanish pirate
called Juan Lorenzo. At Cachadao beach
there is a road built by slaves of rock which
goes 3km to the next beach, Dois Rios,
where there are ruins of a penitentiary. At
Proveta beach there is a secluded evangelidoors,
often just chatting with
friends or people watching.
They have an incredible
sense of humour, and are extremely
irreverent—any incident,
good or bad, immediately
sets off an enormous
number of jokes.
What Brazilians love most
is their outdoors, especially
their beaches, around which
everything seems to revolve.
If you look at a map of Brazil
you will see that the great majority
of the cities have developed
along the coastline, due
to the great coastal mountain
range going all the way north.
Even still, there are many uninhabited areas
with deserted beaches along the coast.
Check this site for some beaches: http://
www.uol.com.br/guiadolitoral/index.htm.
The site is in Portuguese but the views are
beautiful.
It is important to note that there are some
very interesting cultural differences as you
travel throughout Brazil. In the south, a great
European influence is easily seen. In Parana
state there are towns you would imagine
finding in the Ukraine or Poland. In other
parts of the same state, there are strong Italian
and German influences. In the State of
Sao Paulo, strong Portuguese, Japanese and
other cultural traits can be found. In the
north, in the State of Bahia, the influence
of the former Afican slaves of the sugar-cane
plantations is very strong.
It’s a country of strong contrasts and wonderful
blends. ❏
Guido Botto photo
© Guido Botto, a Canadian, has lived almost
30 years in Brazil. Fluent in English, Portuguese,
Italian and Spanish, he runs a translation
and interpretation agency. In 1999 he won
Brazil’s non-stop 5-day, 5-night Eco Challenge
Adventure Race. He is now developing an ecoadventure
tourism business to guide Canadians
on kayak trips in Brazil, and to bring Brazilians
to Canada for kayaking. Ph: 250-714-5609,
gbotto@shaw.ca, www.kayakingbrazil.com.
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
17

Floating on the Sea of Cortez
One by one the kayaks slip into the
water—water so clear and transparent
that the boats appear to hover above
the sandy bottom. While sea birds float
overhead, pelicans dive headfirst into the
ocean like kamikaze pilots. In the background,
huge mountains necklace the
desert area and its towering cardon cactus.
Welcome to Baja California, Mexico, and
the Sea of Cortez.
Not so long ago, accessibility to Baja was
almost non-existent. From the US border to
Cabo San Lucas, with the Pacific on one side
and the Sea of Cortez on the other, only the
hardy ventured down the 1000 miles of
coastline. They fished, they whale-watched,
they just hung out. But today, the Trans-Peninsular
Highway is completely paved and
the airports are busy with tourists.
Wild and undeveloped, the Sea of Cortez
has spectacular scenery, rich marine life and
warm weather. The many islands that dot
its waters are protected by the Mexican government
against any commercial development,
to preserve the delicate ecosystems.
There are two key towns on the Sea of
Cortez: Loreto, the original capital of the
state, and La Paz. Both have much to recommend
them but since I live in La Paz, I’ll
focus on the paddling near there.
LA PAZ
La Paz is the city of peace. It is neither a
raucous resort nor a chaotic city. Violent
crime is virtually unknown and the Mexi-
Isla Coronados near Loreto
can people are delightful. Stroll along the
Malecon, the romantic seaside walkway.
Listen to live Latin music or mariachi bands
playing at outdoor cafes, or curl up on an
secluded beach at dusk enchanted by the
spectacular blood-red sunsets for which La
Paz is noted.
In the La Paz area there are nine islands,
four which are a kayaker’s dream with spectacular
volcanic rock formations, fine
camping beaches and rugged shorelines.
SAN JOSE, SAN FRANCISCO, PARDITO
The appeal of these islands is their remoteness,
a few hours from La Paz. Isla San
Barbara Spencer
Jose is one of the most mountainous islands
in the Sea of Cortez. The beaches offer glistening
white sand and you’ll paddle along
extraordinarily chiselled red sandstone
cliffs. It was here that I encountered a large
pod of dolphins arching from the water in
unison, a school of flying fish skimming the
surface and a manta ray twirling in the air.
In the southern part of the island lies the
largest mangrove estuary in Baja, a striking
contrast to the arid desert. Below the shallow
lagoon mouth, stingrays undulate their
wings. This estuary is a home for many of
Baja’s birds: frigates, brown or blue-footed
boobies, gulls, terns, pelicans, blue herons,
egrets and ibis.
VIKING
ADVENTURE TOURS
• Kayaking • Sightseeing
• Diving • Fishing
Explore the Beautiful
British Columbia Coast
Michael Sheehan photo
54' Mothership MV VIKING 1
Skipper: Ken Lund
Call (250) 755-9175
info@vikingadventuretours.com
www.vikingadventuretours.com
18 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

Isla Espiritu Santo near La Paz.
Isla Pardito is a unique fishing village perched high on one of the
rock islands with an incredible view of the sea. Five generations of
families have lived there. There is no camping but beer goes a long
way in exchange for fish.
Isla San Francisco, just south of Isla Pardito, has a stunning white
sand beach. At the far north end is a cave that, at times, is used by
the navy at night to camp. If a navy boat sits in the cove, move on
to the next cove to avoid any questions. The officers are polite but
they may approach you with weapons and inquiries. They are just
doing their job, looking for drugs or guns. By contrast, ruthless nosee-ums
terrorize this beach in the warmer months, so wear the
hardiest bug spray possible.
ISLA ESPIRITU SANTO
From startling fissured and striated cliffs on the east, to spectacular
pristine beaches and protected lagoons on the west, Espiritu
Santo is a ruggedly beautiful, semi-exotic island. No wonder this
island is the most popular with kayak tours.
From Playa Tecolote, just north of La Paz, you can either rent a
panga or paddle the 4.5 mile crossing. With at least twenty stunning
beaches suitable for camping, you should be able to find an
uninhabited site. Since the island is only thirty-five miles around, it
is easily circumnavigated in a few days. To truly experience its secrets,
you should stay a week.
Have you ever swum with sea lions? At the northern tip of the
island is Los Islotes, two guano-frosted rock islets, one with a large
sea lion colony. On the rocky ledges lie hundreds of California
Brown sea lions and one wayward Elephant Seal who has taken up
residence. A natural arch brimming with sea life is formed in the
other islet, through which you can snorkel and dive.
LPW KAYAK POWER SYSTEMS
Ph: 775-882-2535 www.LightPerformanceWorks.com
Barbara Spencer photo
The law prohibits landing on Los Islotes. It is also dangerous as
the bulls patrol and fiercely protect their territory. A precautionary
measure while swimming is to remain about 100 feet from the
rocks and let the sea lion pups approach you. The pups, curious
and eager, will splash into the water to greet you, swimming upside
down, as they swerve and roll their flexible bodies.
Intriguing hikes are found in the volcanic arroyos where wild fig
and ironwood trees grow. Trek the high ridges for a stunning panoramic
view of towering red-hued volcanic escarpments piercing
the azure waters below.
Beachcombing, shell collecting, sea arches, deep hidden coves,
fresh water wells (unsuitable for drinking), mangroves, and remnants
from the pearling era make each day a new adventure.
When is the best kayaking? October to June. Fall trips in October
and November offer warmer water temperatures (25°C). The magic
of these islands is enhanced in March and April as surrounding
waters come alive with the migrating whales. Grey, Blue, Fin, Pilot,
Humpback and Sperm have all been observed. Pods of dolphins
are seen all year long. At 45°C from July to October, the air
temperature is suffocating. Even the lizards know enough to stay
home during the daytime. It makes sense that this is the land of
siesta. Bring sunscreen, sunhat and shades.
For the enthusiastic kayaker seeking peace, nature and even romance,
Baja has it all. When you want a quick getaway from the
dreary northern winter months, what better way to experience a hit
of sun, sand and sombreros than aboard your kayak.
FOR BAJA KAYAK TOURS, RENTALS
• Baja Expeditions: www.bajaex.com
• Baja Outdoors Adventures: www.kayactivities.com
• Gabriola Cycle & Kayak: www.gck.ca
• Nahanni Wilderness Adventures: www.nahanniwild.com
• Pacific Rim Paddling Company: www.PacificRimPaddling.com
• Paddling South: www.tourbaja.com
www.klepper.com
amscgyca@cadvision.com
➞
2000 E. Clearview Dr. Carson City, NV 89701 Fax: 775-882-2760
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
Average time of assembly
19

www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
over 1,000 pages of
searchable information,
650,000 hits per month.
Put Our
Accessories
Between
You
and the
Water
VALUE–ADDED
MESH BAG PACKAGING
POGIES
• Saltspring Kayaking: www.saltspring
kayaking.com/sskayak
• Sea Kayak Adventures Inc:
www.seakayakadventures.com.
• Tofino Expeditions: www.tofino.com
Baja Outdoors Adventures has an excellent
8X14 map of Isla Espiritu Santo which
grades the beaches and pinpoints the best
snorkelling.
HOW TO GET THERE
Fly direct to Loreto or La Paz with Aero
California or Aero Mexico. An alternate route
to La Paz is to fly to Cabo San Lucas with
Aero Mexico, Alaska, America West or
Mexicana and take a taxi to the bus depot in
San Jose del Cabo ($17 Cdn) and then the
bus to La Paz ($15 Cdn). Buses run all day
long and take 2-1/2 hours to La Paz.
ACCOMMODATION
Hotels, B&Bs and Pensions from $18-
$125 Cdn. Refer to guide books on Baja or
www.bajatravel.com. In Loreto, try Villas de
Loreto (meals, accommodation, pool, kayak
rentals, etc.): www.villasdeloreto.com.
Loreto
La Paz
Cabo
TOURIST CARD
You need a tourist card to enter Mexico.
The airlines provide it. If you are driving,
stop at the Mexican Immigration office at
Tijuana border or in San Diego at the Mexican
Consulate. Less hassle in San Diego.
Bring your passport. ❏
© Barbara Spencer is a Canadian living in La
Paz. She is currently organizing a kayaking trip
from Loreto to La Paz. For more information:
mexico_barbara@yahoo.ca
KEEPING BAJA BEAUTIFUL
For several years now Mexican Park
officials have mandated the use of porta-potties
for paddlers in the waters of the
Sea of Cortez. Peter Marcus of Gabriola
Cycle & Kayak says that despite initial
resistance, this requirement has greatly
benefited the area.
“No one at first likes the idea of having
to carry a port-a-pottie, but in fact
it’s not that much of a burden and after a
few trips it just becomes part of the routine”,
Peter says.
“We’ve been using a port-a-pottie
made by GTS Systems (www.ecosafe.net).
They make a great 20 liter size
(good for groups) and a smaller, 8 liter
version (good for single kayaks). They
have a good seal and are easy to clean.”
In Vancouver they’re available at Ecomarine.
PRECURVED GLOVES
When you’re going to
take the plunge, remember
Brooks offers a wide selection
of paddling accessories to
meet every paddlers need.
Brooks Wetsuits Ltd.
Toll Free 1-888-986-3441
Fax: (604) 986-3443
e-mail: info@brookspaddlegear.com
www.brookspaddlegear.com
20 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

Know Your Neighbours
Hidden Charms of Mangroves
What does tropical paddling
mean to you? Brochures invariably
show white sandy beaches,
shallow coral reefs and drooping coconut
trees—our somewhat clichéd
northern version of paradise. At an
all-inclusive resort, that may well be
all the tropical ecology you see. But
if you do any real paddling down
south, you’ll most likely find yourself
in the forest.
I’m not talking about river paddling
mind you—I’m talking about
mangroves, the only trees capable
of living in salt water. Though they
rarely make the brochures, mangrove
forests make up a huge portion
of many tropical shorelines,
particularly in the shallow areas behind coral reefs that are popular
with paddlers. Believe it or not, coconut palms are not even
native to the Caribbean—the groves you find everywhere were originally
planted, often after the native mangrove trees had been cleared
and burnt.
Do people love coconuts that much? Yes mon! And as you’ll
quickly discover when you paddle up close, mangroves don’t have
the same charm as swaying coconuts with white sand underneath.
To put it mildly.
Some first impressions? Instead of white sand, picture an impenetrable
tangle of roots. How about some dark, sticky muck, or maybe
even no visible land at all—just roots. Don’t forget bugs! Mosquitoes
and biting midges might swarm you if there’s no breeze. And
what’s that nasty, rotten eggs smell? Would you like to go “ashore”
honey? Are you nuts? If the muck doesn’t swallow us whole, the
crocodiles lurking in all those dark nooks and crannies might.
But wait a minute. We’re paddlers, not cruise shippers. We’re
captains of our own small, highly maneuverable boats, not grumpy
passengers being ferried about by obsequious men in sailor suits.
We know that some places, just like some people, need to be understood
a bit better to be appreciated.
So let’s talk about mangroves. To know them might not be to
love them (unless you’re a geeky marine botanist), but you’ll find
them far more interesting and appealing when you understand what
makes them special.
Shallow and sunlit red mangrove roots can be
completely encrusted with animals and plants.
Bryan Nichols photo
Bryan Nichols
WHAT ARE THEY
Mangroves are trees that can deal
with a combination of two things that
would be deadly to every other
tree—salt water and flooded roots.
There are essentially only three species
in most of the Caribbean, but
there are many more in the (much
older) Pacific. Mangroves aren’t necessarily
closely related, and different
species have different ways of dealing
with salt and suffocation. We’ll
use the Caribbean species as examples—they
likely arrived around the
time of the dinosaur’s demise, when
Panama was open water and Pacific
species could float through the gap.
The most oceanic tree is the red
mangrove (Rhizophora mangle). It can grow up from shallow salt
water, blurring the line between land and sea. What looks like a
forest from the air is actually more of a salt water swamp, a maze
of channels and roots and short, scrubby trees. While that may not
be appealing to Homo sapiens, these swamps are hugely important
to a lot of other animals.
WHY SO SPECIAL?
First of all, they can be very productive. Though not too many
things eat them directly, mangroves shed leaves and bark and other
debris which drives an entire ecosystem of critters below. Besides
just providing nutrients, this rich, convoluted region of roots becomes
an ideal nursery for numerous species of fish and invertebrates,
critters that grow up to become favorites on the reef—and
in the restaurant.
But mangrove forests aren’t just productive—they are protective
as well. That maze of roots makes for the best line of defense against
potential destruction from both directions. From the sea, hurricanes
and cyclones would wreak far more havoc upon shorelines if much
of their fury wasn’t buffered by mangroves. This becomes painfully
(and expensively) obvious to resorts and cities that clear all their
mangroves and then get hit by one of those increasingly frequent
storms.
And it works both ways—floods of freshwater, silt and pollution ➞
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
21

from land could inundate sensitive coral
reefs if there weren’t mangroves in between
to filter the water and trap the sediment.
Clearing mangroves has often resulted in
rapid deterioration to invaluable offshore
reefs.
UH OH
So what happens to an ecosystem that is
hugely important but not well known or
liked? Though the majority of tropical
coastland was dominated by mangroves
once, today they are probably one of the
most threatened ecosystems in the world.
Careless development and the recent boom
in shrimp farming (which starts with a mangrove
clearcut) has contributed to the loss
of more than half of the world’s mangrove
forest, a loss which continues without celebrities
complaining much.
Mangroves might be an “interesting place
to visit, sure wouldn’t want to live there”
sort of spot, but they are essential to the
healthy ecosystems that support a good
tropical vacation. Check out the Mangrove
Action Project (www.earthisland.org/map/
index.htm) to learn more and help out. In
the meantime, here are some tips for a successful
visit on your next trip south.
WELCOME TO THE SWAMP
There are three ways to experience mangrove
islands and swamps—land, sea and
sub-aqua. Personally, I hate walking in mangroves.
Speaking biologically, they can be
muddy, smelly and buggy, as well as dark
and full of icky things. There are occasional
exceptions though, including boardwalk
trails, so don’t rule it out completely.
Paddling is a different story. When it
seems like the wind is blowing too hard to
be on the water, you can venture into the
protection of a mangrove swamp and have
a grand old time. Warning! Bring a compass
and be careful not to get lost. Nobody
charts these areas well, if at all, so you won’t
have a map. The islands look the same and
channels through the trees can be a navigational
mesh. I always feel like an explorer,
winding my way through narrowing gaps
hoping to find a route to the “other side”.
Paddling mangroves is great fun.
Finally, bring along your mask and snorkel
and check out the edges. Red mangrove
roots form impressive walls along channels
that can be a couple meters deep—enough
to swim along and explore. If there’s current
and clear water, there will likely be
loads of life—colorful sponges and
tunicates, schools of juvenile fish and all
sorts of things on and in between the tangle
of roots. On days when it’s far too windy
to dive or snorkel the reef, venture back to
the mangroves to meet a different but
equally fascinating cast of critters.
This issue’s checklist includes a dozen
things to look for on your winter vacation,
so bring it along and ask the locals about a
trip into the trees. ❏
© Despite coming face to
face with a gator the first
time he ever snorkeled near
a mangrove, biologist Bryan
Nichols has since spent
many a windy day paddling
and drift snorkeling through
channels in the mangroves
off Belize.
REVIEW
Southeastern and Caribbean Seashores—A
Peterson Field Guide. Eugene H. Kaplan
Houghton Mifflin 1988 425p, $18US.
ISBN 0-395-97516-6
Since
hardly
anyone does it,
it’s not easy to find
a good guide to
poking around in
mangroves. Your
best bet is probably
Kaplan’s excellent
field guide for
Florida and Caribbean
seashores,
which contains a
chapter on mangroves
as well as sections on beaches, rocky
shores and turtle grass beds. Since we
kayakers see these seashores up close and
frequently, this is a great little book to pack
along.
Like all Peterson guides it’s compact and
stuffed with info including oodles of excellent
drawings as well as black & white and
color photos. The first half of the book covers
the habitats, including tips on how to
best experience them (written before kayaks
became so popular). The second half
covers critters, working its way through the
myriad of weird life that lives at or just below
the surface of warm southern waters.
Definitely worth adding to your collection,
and your drybag, for your next trip south.
Complete review available at www.Wave
LengthMagazine.com.
—Bryan Nichols ❏
PAGE’S RESORT MARINA
Silva Bay—Gabriola Island, BC
Cottages, Campground, Fuel, Moorage,
Laundromat, Showers, Diveshop,
Artwork, Charts, Books and
PRIME PADDLING!
Flat Top Islands and
Drumbeg provincial park.
Call 250-247-8931
mail@pagesresort.com
www.pagesresort.com
22 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

PROP ROOTS
For sea kayakers especially, the most notable
things about mangroves are the prop roots
of the red mangrove (Rhizophora mangle).
On low, scrubby mangroves they form a tangle
of wood that can withstand huge storms—
on taller mangroves they become “drop
roots” that come down from branches high
above water. Under the surface, they are excellent
habitat and fascinating to snorkel.
RED MANGROVE SEEDLINGS
On the tree, they look like exotic tropical fruit.
When they fall off they float, horizontally at
first, so they drift away from the parent plant.
After a day or three the root-end gets waterlogged
and sinks, waiting to bump into bottom
to attach to and grow. Remarkably, these
little trees can drift for up to a year and still
successfully “plant” themselves.
SNORKEL ROOTS
Black mangrove (Avicennia
germinans) roots avoid smothering
in dense mud by putting up distinctive,
knobby looking
pneumatophores. Looking like fingers
reaching up from the mud,
they surround the main trunk, radiating
outward in patterns that follow the roots below. Squeeze
one—they have a spongy feel because much of their tissue is
airy, all the better to allow oxygen to diffuse downward.
TANNIC ACID
Like our own red cedars, red mangroves contain tannin, which
makes them unpalatable to most herbivores. Venture deep into
mangrove swamps and the water will likely become a murky
reddish brown, much like a slow moving stream or pond in the
Northwest. It’s best to do your snorkeling on the clearer fringes
of the swamp, not the murky center.
SULFUR
That nasty rotten egg smell you might experience in a mangrove
swamp means that the flooded soil has lost all its oxygen. This
would normally kill just about everything except bacteria which
can use the sulfate in seawater instead, producing stinky hydrogen
sulfide, which is also toxic to plants. Mangroves manage to
survive (and be productive) using their prop roots or snorkel
roots to bring oxygen down to the roots below ground, preventing
them from smothering in the toxic muck.
FRIGATES & EGRETS
Mangrove islands make great habitat for nesting
and resting seabirds. The smaller the island,
the less likely there’ll be any predators,
and certain islands and even specific trees can
be completely covered in birds. Near shore,
egrets will converge on specific trees, while
farther offshore frigates, pelicans, boobies and
other seabirds can easily be spotted drifting above or resting in
the branches of mangroves. Kayaks are a great way to see these
birds as many nesting islands are “no walking” zones.
Checklist 27—Mangrove Mania
CROCODILES
Yes, there just might be crocodiles
lurking in Caribbean mangroves.
Though the alligator is
restricted to Florida and fresh
water (strays don’t last long in
the salt), the American crocodile (Crocodylus acutus) is fond of
brackish and salty mangrove swamps. Though it gets big (rarely
to seven meters!), this species is remarkably shy and nocturnal,
making sightings rare. A night paddle with a flashlight might
reveal those reflective eyes, and juveniles like the one in the
picture can occasionally be found in shallow pools near camp.
SPONGE (FIRE AND CHICKEN LIVER)
Pop into the water and take a look at those red
mangrove roots—they’ll likely be covered in all
sorts of things, including colorful sponges in
blues, purples, reds and yes, even liver colors.
Colonies of these simple, filter feeding animals
use the roots as a base to feed in the passing
currents. Don’t touch the red ones—they’re not
called fire sponges because they’re flammable.
TUNICATES
Though they form colorful encrustations like
sponges, a close look at colonies of bluebell
and lightbulb tunicates will reveal they are tiny
little animals with two siphons. An even closer
(microscopic) look would reveal they are related
to us—in Phylum Chordata.
ANEMONES
Zoanthids and several species of anemone are
common on and among mangrove roots, their
tentacles stretching into the current to catch and
consume passing animals. Though they’re far
to small to catch you or your boat, one or two
species can give you a mild sting if you get too
intimate.
FISH
Fish, especially juvenile fish, love
mangrove roots. Sport fishers cast
along the roots hoping for
bonefish, snook and even tarpon.
As a paddler or snorkeler you’ll likely see schools of silversides
and snapper ducking for cover as you drift by. If you’re lucky, you
might even see rays and the occasional big barracuda.
MANATEES
Everybody loves marine
mammals, even when
they’re big and blubbery
and likely less than brilliant.
These large, elusive vegetarians are a Florida favorite, and
in the wild they (and their Pacific relatives the dugongs) tend to
roam the swampy coastlines created by mangroves. Shy and mild
mannered, they can be difficult to spot—from your kayak look
for a large, dark mass followed by a paddle shaped tail, or perhaps
a whiskery snout rising for a breath out of murky shallows.
All photos ©Bryan Nichols except black mangrove snorkel roots
© Jeannine Lessmann (a marine botany geek)
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
23

Paddle Meals
Mmmmmmm Magic
Cascading musical notes wafting across
a mountain lake from a canoe enveloped
in late afternoon sun. Magical moments
on a golden pond. Sounds like the
music angels would make. But the sweet
vibrations emanate from a Zimbabwean
thumb piano being played by Rick Palmer.
(An mbira is smaller than a laptop and ideal
for creating heavenly, healing sounds on
paddling trips.)
Rick Palmer with Deb Leach
A founding member of Victoria’s
Marimba Muzuva, Rick builds marimbas for
a living and explores the coast of British
Columbia between folk festivals. (For more
details see www.marimbamagic.com)
Inspired when cooking with friends, ‘Mr.
Muzuva’ turns on the creative juices and
loves to compose ‘music for the tongue’.
His eyes light up when he talks about picking
huckleberries to load into pancakes. Imagine
bursts of huckleberries exploding on
your palate with a hit of maple syrup! Sipping
lattes on the beach.
Planning food for trips is his least favourite
task. He prefers to brainstorm ideas with
paddling buddies and raid his friend Rob’s
garden for fresh veggies and herbs. Rick
claims the best chowder he ever made—
complete with Jerusalem artichokes and fresh
crab—was based on directions he followed
from the novel, Smilla’s Sense of Snow.
HOME BAY HOT POT
A nice blast for the tastebuds. Near Home
Bay on Jedediah Island is the place to fetch
fresh oysters and fish to replace the canned
seafood. Serves 4
1 package Red Thai curry paste
4 or 5 tbsp peanut butter
2-3 tbsp tomato paste
1 can coconut cream
2 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, chopped
10 cloves garlic chopped
1 cubic inch chopped and bruised ginger
1 large yam, cut in cubes
2 small beets, sliced
4 small carrots, sliced
1 medium zucchini, cut in cubes
1 red pepper, cut in cubes
1 can large clams
1 can salmon
In a large frypan or saucepan, sauté curry
paste in 2 tbsp of olive oil for 1 min. Add the
onions and garlic. After another minute, stir
in the coconut cream, tomato paste and peanut
butter. Sauté till onions soften. Meanwhile
in a second pot, steam-cook the vegetables
in a minimum of water, adding the
liquid from the salmon and clams. When the
vegetables are soft, combine with the sauce
and stir in the seafood. Heat through. Serve
with biryani rice or pasta. (Make Biryani rice
by adding a package of biryani spice to the
rice).
in the SAN JUAN ISLANDS
141 Glen Oak Lane
Friday Harbour
Washington
Tom & Maria Small
oakridge@rockisland.com
www.oak-ridge.net
360-378-6184
800-687-3558
24 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

CHINA POOT MUSSELS AND CLAMS
—from Favorite Recipes from Kachemak Bay Wilderness Lodge
savoured on Rick’s travels in Alaska. Serves 4
Scrub and remove byssal threads from 4-5 lbs mussels and/or clams
In a large saute pan (or wide saucepan), bring the following ingredients
to a simmer:
2 cups medium white wine
1/4 cup minced shallots
4 cloves minced garlic
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1 bay leaf
Simmer 3 minutes. Increase heat to high, add shellfish, cover
and cook, stirring once or twice, until shells are opened (4-8 min).
Discard any unopened ones. Try this: Add 1 tsp curry powder and
sprinkle cooked mussels with chopped cilantro and basil.
PASTA PALMER
Slice young zucchini into 1/4” inch rounds, dip in soy sauce and
coat with brewers yeast. Sauté zucchini in olive oil and toss into
cooked pasta with pesto sauce.
(Perhaps penne or rigatoni pasta to follow a marimba theme?)
Paddle Meal Tip: Pack along tubes of pesto, tomato sauce and olive
paste for adding zest to meals and appetizers with less mess. ❏
© Deb Leach is the Health Promotion
Director for the Canadian Forces
in Esquimalt, BC.
Come visit us
in Abbotsford and
see this lovely mural!
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
25

Rapid Descents
Winter Whitewater
When Jim Hnatiak and I set out in the
spring of 2000 to compile the information
for a guide book for select
whitewater runs in southwestern BC, we
thought we would begin on Vancouver Island.
The Island is as ‘southwestern’ as you
can get in BC, so it seemed a natural starting
place. And we had never been there
before, other than kayaking the waves at
Long Beach a couple of times.
We picked up a copy of Betty Pratt-
Johnson’s Whitewater Trips On Vancouver
Island and read with dismay that the Island’s
season would just be ending when we
would be arriving.
Vancouver Island’s precipitation falls in
the winter, and because of the relatively
warm climate, most of that is rain. And due
to a lack of large lakes, there is little in the
way of reservoirs to feed the rivers in the
dry months.
No matter, we thought, there was still
snow in the mountains. We felt sure there
would still be enough water in the rivers to
make the trip worthwhile if we moved
quickly.
We were wrong, of course. Except for our
Let winter rains come!
Steve Crowe
time at Long Beach, which never fails to entertain,
the trip was a waste of time and an
inglorious start to our project. But we did
learn something valuable, a lesson Pratt-
Johnson tried to impart to us in her book.
For whitewater kayakers, Vancouver Island
is set apart from the rest of the province.
While the rest of BC is clicking into
ski bindings and strapping on snowboards,
Islanders are pulling on drysuits and slipping
into the rapids. In other words, Vancouver
Island is the perfect winter
whitewater getaway for those unable or
unwilling to bankroll a trip to the tropics.
The wild west coast, open to the vast
undulations of the Pacific Ocean, kicks up
surf from Cape Scott at the northern tip,
down to Jordan River across from Washington’s
Olympic Peninsula.
But mountainous Vancouver Island also
provides numerous rivers for kayakers, from
remote Marble River near Port Hardy in the
north, to the Koksilah River near the provincial
capital, Victoria, in the south.
The rivers vary in their attractions, length,
volume, and class of difficulty. What they
have in common, however, is their availability
in winter. River paddling on the Island
begins with the autumn rains and ends
when the last of the spring runoff has emptied
into the sea. And even though surf
kayaking can go year-round, it too is best
during winter when frequent storms heave
the sea onto the shore.
My purpose in this issue, then, is to simply
introduce you to some of the whitewater
available on Vancouver Island during the
months when most others would rather be
26 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

drinking hot cocoa beside a toasty fire, or
in the tropics. Pratt-Johnson’s book has the
most comprehensive information available
about Island paddling, but I warn you that
it’s dated. The book was written in 1984
and while the natural landscape has altered
very little, the human landscape has
changed tremendously. Some roads no
longer lead where they once did, some
access points are no longer public, and
some formerly free camping spots have
been lost down the whirlpool of economic
development. For this reason, I’ll keep my
descriptions general.
For up-to-date information on rivers, contact
local paddling stores, request current information
on the Whitewater Kayaking Association
of BC’s web-based message board
(www.whitewater.org), or for the latest on
North Island rivers visit Jeffrey Holden’s
Home page (http://ourworld.compuserve.
com/homepages/jholden). You can also visit
www.coastalbc.com for photos and stories
about Island whitewater, and www.
vancouverisland.com/Recreation/
whitewaterkayak for short write-ups about
some rivers not included in the Pratt-Johnson
book or here.
1. Koksilah River, near Shawnigan Lake,
has two runs that are available only after a
good downpour. The upper run is a short
Class II with a couple of Class III drops that
are easy to portage. The lower run through
a canyon is about 15 km long and offers
more of a challenge. Class III and IV water
is interrupted by two difficult drops with
awkward portages, and one easy, mandatory
portage.
2. Cowichan River is possible to paddle
all year, although it can be extremely low
in the summer. Located west of Duncan,
this Class III- run is within a provincial park,
which gives it a beautiful wilderness setting.
A lovely, easy river at low levels, it
can provide a lively challenge at high levels.
At only 4 km long, it is not strenuous
and the whole run can be scouted from
trails along the shore, or from the water.
3. Nanaimo River, just south of its namesake
town, is a playful Class III- (to IV-) river
with ledges scattered along its length. Some
ledges can be dangerous at high water because
they are so straight. The most difficult
drop is near the end of the run and is
indicated by a 3 metre tall house rock in
the middle of the channel.
4. Campbell River, which runs through
its namesake town, is a straightforward,
short, Class II that runs all year. If you swim,
however, you may be in for awhile because
it is a swift flowing river. The most challenging
rapids are right below the put-in at
the power plant. The entire run can be
scouted from beautiful trails on either shore.
Vancouver
Island
5
6
Long Beach
3
2
1
5. Nimpkish River (and Davie River) has
three different runs, ranging from Class II
to Class III with Class IV drops. Near the
town of Woss, the Nimpkish can be combined
with a ski trip to Mt. Cain for the ultimate
winter holiday.
6. Gold River, beside its namesake town,
has three runs that can be combined for
one long run. The upper run is technical
and challenging, with a Class IV rating at
high water. It cuts through a gorgeous pooldrop
canyon. Low water eliminates choices
in some chutes. The middle run is much
easier, but intermediates should use caution
at high water. The lower run is easier
still, however there is one Class IV-section
about 350 m long.
While the rivers on Vancouver Island—
of which this is only a very partial list—are
spectacular and distinct from those on the
mainland, my favorite places to paddle on
Vancouver Island are the ocean beaches.
There is nowhere in BC that offers such easy
access to such novelty. Continuous, regular
waves! No boulders hidden under the
water! No sweepers! No whirlpools! There
is no better place to practice surfing and
rolling. Even if you come out of your boat,
the ocean just pushes you back to shore
where you can get back in and try again.
And even if the waves out at the break are
too big and intimidating for you, you can
play all day in the foam piles.
4
Jordan River
Victoria
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• Wilderness First Aid
• Swift Water
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Long Beach, the granddaddy of BC surfing,
offers miles of beach for all to play on.
The principal areas are Long Beach itself,
Wickaninnish Beach, and Cox Bay
(Chesterman Beach). During storms, the
waves here can be absolutely massive. But
even when there are no storms, there is (almost)
consistent action to keep water people
happy. Please keep in mind, though,
that kayak surfers with our paddles have a
decided advantage in catching waves over
surfers. We can catch most anything we
want, while they have to wait for the perfect
wave. Give them the odd break and
drop off the occasional wave so they can
play too.
Jordan River, a community west of Victoria,
is an ideal surf spot when the waves
are up. The flow of the river takes you past
the break and sets you up for the next ride,
without the struggle of breaking through the
surf to get out. The area, however, is quite
small so competition for space can be quite
stiff with the growing legions of surfers.
The most difficult part of winter paddling,
I find, is the anticipation of cold. Once I
get past that and into my boat, however,
cold is pushed to the back of my mind by
all the fun I’m having. Besides, continuous
paddling keeps my core temperature high
so that I am unaware of the air temperature.
And water temperature isn’t really an
issue because let’s face it, the water in BC
is usually cold. To be a happy winter Island
paddler, one only needs a water-tight
drysuit, pogies or gloves (which I don’t prefer
because I lose a sense of where exactly
the paddle is in my hands), a skullcap, a
bomber roll and a warm refuge in which to
brew hot cocoa at the end of the day. ❏
© Steve Crowe is the
co-author of
‘Whitewater In BC's
Southwest: A Guide
to Accessible Runs
for Beginner to
Advanced Kayakers’.
Detailed information
on Long Beach can
be found in the book.
The North Island’s only
full service kayak shop.
Specializing in whitewater,
recreational, and touring kayaks.
Retail, Rentals and Lessons
250 338-8844
333 Fifth Street, Courtenay, BC
skiandsurfshop@shaw.ca
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
27

Rental Fleet
SALE
From the Rainforest
A Holiday to Remember!
In 1979, I embarked on a winter
getaway I will never forget. Jim
Berta and Merrily Corder, who
were my kayaking mentors,
planned to cycle to California to
visit his family for Christmas. Then
Jim got the idea of making it a paddling
trip. Problem was, he wasn’t
free to go until mid-October.
I leapt at the opportunity to join
such an epic undertaking. Being
young and naive at the time, I
failed to understand the implications
that late fall weather would
have on our expedition: gale-force
southeast headwinds slowing us
almost to a standstill, massive
storm swells trashing us each
morning as we left the beach and
then pounding us back to shore
each evening.
Our small group of friends gathered on October 24 at Jericho
Beach in Vancouver and paddled off in moderate southeast winds
and driving rain. Sleeping at Tsawassen overnight, we crossed Georgia
Strait the second morning, arriving in Victoria the third day.
Next came the crossing of Juan de Fuca Strait. I was too new to
the sport to really understand tidal currents, so the rapids at Race
Rocks took me by surprise. I remember thinking that the waves
were very steep and pointy on top.
As we crossed the Strait, a cold southeast wind conspired with
the strong ebb current to drag us out to sea. We could clearly see
that we were losing ground. I was finding it unusually hard to keep
up. Jim tried everything from encouragement to insults to keep me
going. When at last we arrived at the Customs dock, we discovered
that I was sitting in six inches of water! My kayak had taken on
water through a pinhole leak in one end. Without bulkheads, this
resulted in 200 pounds of water distributed the length of the boat!
Things got worse in early November as we rounded Cape Flattery
at the tip of the Olympic Peninsula. We were being hammered
by incredibly strong southeast winds, and could barely move forward.
We decided to bail out at the first beach south of the Cape. It
was taking literally minutes to claw our way past each rock. When
I took a momentary break, I was blown back, losing five or ten
minutes worth of paddling instantly! I realised that I had to find some-
Long hair and high hopes in 1979. L-R: Jim Berta,
Ed Kitt, Dan Lewis, Lawella Muirhead, Merrily Corder
Bill Halkett photo
Dan Lewis
thing to occupy my mind,
which was whining things like
“I can’t do this” and “We’re all
gonna die!”. The Juan de Fuca
ordeal had taught me that the
body can do far more than the
mind would think possible—I
just had to occupy it with other
thoughts. As I punched my right
arm forward, I thought “Mind
says, arms have power”. Punching
the left arm forward, I
chanted “Mind says, push on!”
This mantra allowed me to carry
on until we reached the beach,
whereupon I was unceremoniously
dumped onto the sand by
the large surf!
Expedition life became a
wearying routine. Wake up in
the dark, put on the wetsuits,
take down the tarp. Eat porridge, surf launch at first light. Paddle
twenty miles south, land at sunset, set up the tarp, cook supper, dry
wetsuit by the fire, hit the hay by eight o’clock. Although I can’t say
it was fun, I can say it was the trip of a lifetime!
Our trip ended just north of Taholah, Washington. We had pulled
in for lunch on a beach. Unfortunately you can never judge the
size of surf from offshore. Turned out this beach had a dumping
shorebreak and we were trapped there. I actually made it off the
beach on our third day there, with an assist from Jim and Ed. I
paddled furiously up huge walls of water, so thin I could see through
them, praying they would not break and pitchpole me backwards
towards the beach. Reaching each crest, my boat would teeter over
the top, and begin the terrifying descent towards the oncoming
trough. I would use this opportunity to pick up some speed, in
order to make it over the next juggernaut.
I actually managed to make it out, whereupon I spent the next
eight or so hours (I didn’t have a watch) waiting a half-mile offshore
for the others to join me. I wasn’t likely to make it out a
second time, and did not want to head in just as they made it out,
so I waited all day. Finally at sunset, I saw Jim raise a signal flag. As
I headed in, a monster wave caught me unawares and collapsed
on top of me. Before I knew it, I was swimming twenty feet away
from my kayak, with assorted bits of gear scattered about. I quickly
grabbed what I could, and eventually washed ashore.
The next morning we discovered that the old skid road behind
the beach connected to an old spur road, that connected to a
mainline logging road. Within minutes we were in downtown
Taholah, where Merrily and Lawella had frantically waited four
days for us to paddle the twenty mile distance from our last rendezvous
with the support vehicle. The next day we called off the
trip and drove to California in 24 hours, just in time for a huge
Thanksgiving feast with Jim’s Mom!
Lesson learned: if you want a relaxing
winter getaway, don’t go looking for it on
the west coast of Washington state! ❏
© Dan Lewis and Bonny Glambeck run
Rainforest Kayak Adventures Box 511,
Tofino, BC V0R 2Z0 1-877-422-WILD
www.rainforestkayak.com
28 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002
Photo Mark Hobson

Mothership Meanderings
‘Our Summer Vacation’
There’s no way our 75-year old boat will
be meandering south to warmer climes
this winter—or any winter for that matter.
And having recently learned that a mariner-ancestor
of mine was killed (and eaten!)
in Fiji in the 1800s, hasn’t helped my appetite
for travel. So the best I’ve got to offer
is our most recent trip in southern Georgia
Strait, sung to the tune of “What we did on
our Summer Vacation...”
The Fraser River is the dominant river of
the entire Georgia Strait/Puget Sound
basin and the main reason the whole
bioregion is rich in wildlife. So it was to the
Fraser River we headed to start our holiday
this year, setting off from Silva Bay on
Gabriola Island.
At 850-miles long, the Fraser drains over
20 million hectares—one quarter of BC—
and carries fresh water, rich silt and nutrients
into the Strait. It has the largest salmon
Steveston’s dock-front restaurants.
Laurie MacBride photo
tion for rough water (when tides, wind and
river currents conflict), heavy boat traffic,
log booms, fishing nets, tugs and other hazards.
(Only days after we were there, a large
fishboat sank in the area, tragically killing
five of the crew.)
Fortunately the traffic and winds were
light for us that day and we had no problem
entering the river. We were passed by
just one enormous bulk carrier, the World
Spirit, which dwarfed our boat as we motored
up the milky tongue of the dredged
main channel.
Our landfall was Steveston, home of the
largest commercial fishing fleet in Canada
and the site of salmon canneries for over a
hundred years. Although fishing has declined
in recent years and none of the many
former canneries now operates here, visitors
can buy wild salmon, crab, halibut, or
shrimp (depending on the season) right off
the boats. Tourists also come in droves to
stroll the boardwalk and the docks, and dine
in quayside restaurants.
This is also the site of the famous Gulf of
Georgia Cannery, built in 1894, now a restored
National Historic Site and hands-on
museum. Visitors can learn about the community’s
history and the cannery culture
that spanned more than a century, as well
as issues in today’s fishery. We were very
impressed. (Ph: 604-664-9009. Web:
www.gulfofgeorgiacannery.com)
Our visit to to Steveston coincided with
two fishing openings in this year’s record
One of the backchannels of the
Fraser River near the Reifel Refuge.
run of sockeye salmon: the first for commercial
gillnetters, the second an aboriginal
food fishery. It was fascinating to paddle
past boats busy hauling nets right in the
river, both by power and by hand, and see
the salmon brought aboard. It looked like
a good catch.
We threaded our way among the
gillnetters as we paddled across the river
from Steveston to get to the outskirts of the
Reifel Migratory Bird Sanctuary on
Westham Island.
This is one of the key resting spots on the
Pacific Flyway and a mecca for birdwatchers.
The Fraser estuary provides a rest and stopover
between California and Alaska for hundreds
of thousands of waterfowl.
In fact, the Fraser estuary and Boundary
Bay together form the largest winter waterfowl
resting area on the whole west coast
of North America. Mind you, even at that,
the estuary is only a remnant of its former ➞
Laurie MacBride photo
runs in North America and its estuary is a
vital stop-over spot for migrating birds from
three continents.
We approached the Sand Heads
lightstation at the outer end of the Fraser
jetty with some trepidation. It has a reputa-
KAYMARAN
ADVENTURE TOURS
Fraser River Eco-Tours, Ladner BC
Tours, Rentals, Mothership, Family Rates
Phone (604) 946-5070
kaymaran@vancouver-bc.com
www.vancouver-bc.com/kaymaran
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
29

self. Over 80% has already disappeared due
to development pressures.
At first we paddled beside the reeds but
as the tide rose, we were able to discern
channels. We caught sight of swallows, purple
martins, red-winged blackbirds, blue
herons, ducks of several species, and even
bald eagles in the distance.
We have since been told there are signs
marking the Sanctuary boundaries, beyond
which paddlers are not to enter. But we saw
no evidence of signs and had no sense of
the boundaries.
However, we whole-heartedly respect
restrictions on paddling this area. The estuary
also has special hazards for paddlers. It
would be easy to lose your way as the tides
change. As the ‘landscape’ shifts rapidly,
with channels opening and closing, you
could easily become stuck in the swampy
quagmire of dropping water.
When I asked an official if there is a breeding
season which paddlers could just avoid,
Visitors are welcome to visit the landward side
of the Migratory Bird Santuary. The BC Waterfowl
Society operates a waterfowl display area
and viewing site commonly known as the Reifel
Refuge, including two miles of pathways that
wind through grassy wetlands. From information,
check out these websites:
• www.naturalhistory.bc.ca/VNHS/Birding/
BirdingVancouverLocations.htm#R
• www.lorrypatton.com/travel/tales/22-17.html
• www.pyr.ec.gc.ca/wildlife/habitat/mbsgeorge_e.htm
We also recommend you contact Tony Dales
of Kaymaran Adventures in nearby Ladner for
information on the general area, and for kayak
rentals and tours. Ph: 604-946-5070,
kaymaran@ vancouver-bc.com.
1
2
1 Silva Bay on Gabriola Island. 2 Steveston and
the Fraser River. 3 Vancouver. 4 Indian Arm.
3
4
he said this extends through spring and summer.
Then he added that wintering season is
even more critical. So the sensitive time is
essentially all year long! Our best advice,
then, is to paddle only along the edges of
the refuge that front the main channel of the
river and bring a set of good binoculars.
After a couple of days in Steveston we
departed on the opening day of the Tall Ship
Festival. In fact, we were asked to leave to
make dock space available for the event and
we weren’t sorry to go, given the numbers
of visitors we could see starting to arrive.
Apparently some 200,000 people descended
on the tiny town, crowding in to
see the fleet of square riggers.
It should also be said of Steveston that as
hard as they are working to capitalize on their
tourist potential, we found limited dock
space and very little service available for visiting
boaters. Although clearly this was exacerbated
by the Festival confusion, we encourage
the Harbour Authority and town
tourism officials to give more attention to
‘transient’ moorage for visiting boaters. Nevertheless,
we certainly recommend a visit to
Steveston, whether you come by land or
water. If you come by sea and need dock
space, just be sure to contact the Steveston
Harbour Authority ahead of time. Ph: 604-
272-5539. Email: info@stevestonharbour.
com. Web: stevestonharbour.com.
From Steveston we had planned to continue
up the South Arm, to join the North
Arm of the Fraser at New Westminister for
passage back to the Strait. But with a strong
river current against us and the prospect of
a long wait for the tide to turn, we opted to
cruise back out the South Arm to the Strait
and make our way directly to Vancouver.
When we reached Georgia Strait we were
clearly going against the flow of a different
kind—it looked like the whole world was
heading to Steveston. We passed a lot of
pleasure boats and a number of the historic
vessels en route.
Then our attention turned to the beauty
of the day, the sparkle of sun and the majesty
of Vancouver’s setting. As we rounded
Point Grey into English Bay, we passed
Spanish Banks—an enormous expanse of
sand stretching what seems like miles offshore
at low tide—where both the Spanish
and British explorers beached their sailing
ships for maintenance. Now it was filled
with bathers having fun.
As we approached the First Narrows
bridge, arching across from the mountainous
north shore to the forested Stanley Park,
I felt a tug of emotion. I hadn’t passed under
this bridge for over 30 years, when I
used to sail here with my father. It felt like
a homecoming.
2002
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amateur kayakers!
• Recreational Courses & Exams
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Basic, Level I, Level II
• SKGABC Assistant Guide Training
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WANT TO BE A GUIDE?
Here is the first step. A 10 day
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For dates and prices, call us at 250-381-4233
or check out our courses on the web at:
www.oceanriver.com
30 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

Memories crowded in as my eyes swept
the scene and I became lost in reverie...
until Laurie pointed out a monstrous
freighter bearing down on us. We dutifully
steered to starboard and the giant went by.
Once under the bridge and into Burrard
Inlet, which is an enormous, well-protected
natural harbour, we passed anchored
freighters from around the world—Asia,
Europe, Africa, South America.
On one side of the Inlet, huge cruise ships
were provisioning for trips up the coast to
Alaska; on the other, tall grain elevators
were loading prairie wheat into ships; coal
was being loaded from mammoth conveyor
belts; and everywhere tugs rushed about.
We passed massive Neptune Terminals
and swept under the two Second Narrows
bridges with the gathering current. Already
the tidal race was frothing on the far side of
the narrows and we danced on the turbulence
past shoreline industry—chemicals,
refineries, shipyards.
Rounding Cates Park, we turned into Indian
Arm. When I was a boy this was a
sparsely populated area, but now we were
met by the sight of houses of all shapes,
sizes and designs clustering the shoreline.
Looking past Deep Cove, however, the
Arm was still largely undeveloped. It reminded
us of one of the big inlets up the
coast, stretching majestically ahead of us, a
deep fjord snaking in among the mountains.
The beauty of this area has atttracted two
kayak operations: Takaya Tours and Deep
Cove Canoe and Kayak (see sidebar page 32).
As was evident to us, these two sites manage
to put a lot of paddlers on the water. It
Indian Arm beckons.
was great to see so many people out enjoying
themselves in such a beautiful spot.
Being hermits, we anchored in Bedwell
Bay, across from Deep Cove, and launched
the kayaks for a lovely paddle before heading
back to the boat for a quiet evening and
peaceful night.
Next morning we hauled anchor early
and headed up the mirror-still waters of the
Arm. As Laurie snapped photos, I stared upwards
at the peaks of Mt. Seymour Park,
remembering plunging into ice-fed alpine
lakes there after long hot summer hikes
many years ago.
➞
Laurie MacBride photo
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the float, 60’ of line and a bait bag is also available.
For more details see
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On your next trip—catch your dinner!
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
31

To your right as you travel up the Arm is Belcarra Park where Takaya Tours
operates. Belcarra was a First Nations’ winter village site called “Tum-tumaywhueton”.
The last chief who lived there, Chief Waut-Salk, between 1770 and
1840, was one of the Tsleil-Waututh who met the British explorer Captain
George Vancouver in Burrard Inlet in 1792.
Takaya Tours offer the opportunity of canoeing in traditional ocean going
canoes, along with kayak lessons, rentals and tours, employing some of
the direct descendants of these original inhabitants, so the legends and
stories are authentic. Ph: 604-904-7410, www.takayatours.com.
Just beyond Belcarra Park, on your left, is Deep Cove, the location of the
very successful Deep Cove Canoe and Kayak Centre which offers lessons
and rentals, and hosts a popular, weekly kayak race. Ph: 604-929-2268,
www.deepcove kayak.com. It’s a great launch site to explore Indian Arm.
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There was a tremendous sense of depth and stillness all around
us. Marvelling at the almost flawless reflections, we passed a handful
of paddlers making their way down the Arm.
On our way, we passed Thwaytes Landing which is being purchased
as a park. Camping is not yet allowed but paddlers and boaters
are welcome to visit the site. (See the News pg. 43 for more.)
Further on, we passed a littoral beach at the mouth of a creek
where we saw a lone paddler camped. This looked like a good site.
Granite Falls on the east side near the head of the Arm is another
provincial campsite.
Reaching the end of Indian Arm, we gazed up the valley which
leads invitingly into the mountains. Then, with a sigh, we turned
back, our thoughts already shifting to the day ahead. We had to get
back to the narrows by slack tide so we could carry on out
to the Strait for the rest of our holiday.
But that—and the wind we encountered—is another
story. See Part 2 of ‘Our Summer Vacation’ next issue. ❏
© Alan Wilson
Middletons’ Specialty Boats
SALES • RENTALS • INSTRUCTION
Ph: 604 240-0503
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GEAR: Aquabound & Harmony paddles. Salus & Serratus PFDs.
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Previous training or experience required.
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32 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

From the Archipelago
Springer’s Reunion!
Editor’s Note: This summer the eyes of the
world were focused on Johnstone Strait in
British Columbia where scientists,
supported by a host of others (whale watch
companies, fishermen, even fish farmers)
attempted for the first time to return a young
orphaned whale to its home pod. Alex was
there at the centre of things, as usual.
The return of little Springer (A73) to
these waters was one of the most fascinating
events I have ever witnessed, and
taught me a great deal about orcas. Two
days before she arrived I positioned my boat
at anchor near the pen where she was to
be placed. There was a great deal of security
in the bay and I wanted to make sure
there was no last minute misunderstandings
that could prevent me from recording
young Springer as she entered the water.
In the hours just before her arrival several
large First Nation seine boats also anchored
in the bay and women dressed in
traditional blankets lined the shore to dance
and welcome her. Eerily, the whales
seemed also to be preparing. Springer’s
family, the A4s, and close relatives the
A12s, had appeared in the area a few days
in advance and began pacing back and
forth, spyhopping and milling.
Springer arrived late in an afternoon that
was awash in brilliant sunshine and a brisk
westerly wind. She was lowered off the
upper deck of the enormous catamaran
which had donated her ride home from
Puget Sound. I was surprised how tiny she
looked, barely visible in the sling. She lay
still as she was placed on the deck of a landing
craft. The vets took last minute blood
samples and affixed transmitters on her
back with suction cups. The moment she
entered the water she began calling. I
pressed “record”.
Springer kept calling through the night
beneath the stars and windy gales. At about
1am I must have dozed off, because at 1:25,
I awoke to Helena at OrcaLab calling on
the marine radio that she was just picking
up wild A4 calls in Blackney Pass, headed
my way. Almost immediately, Springer began
a desperate set of frenzied calls. She
began leaping high above the sides of her
pen and, though it was pitch black, I could
see the phosphorescence cascading off her
back. The wild whales called for a bit then
went silent. Springer went quiet too, and
seemed to collect her thoughts. When she
vocalised again it was a beautiful sequence
of perfect A4 type calls. I hadn’t known a
two year old could speak so well. She was
The incurably curious Springer.
Alexandra Morton
identifying herself as daughter of A45, granddaughter
of A24 of the A4 family, of the A
clan of northern residents. The wild whales
seemed stunned. They remained silent.
For the next 18 hours the A12s and A4s
went around Hansen Island, coming into
range of Springer’s voice every few
hours, but not answering her. Springer’s
grandmother, Kelsy, went south before
dawn to Campbell River, over 100km away,
and did not return. Kelsy has had great difficulty
rearing her young, with only two left
after seven births. But young Simoom was
drawn to the voice of her lost cousin. Just
before noon the next day, in the company
of her mother, Yakat, and matriarch Scimitar,
Simoom began slowly approaching the
bay with the mysterious, but familiar voice.
This was the cue for the crew to prepare for
Springer’s release. The net was pulled up
shallow and divers entered the water and
held her. Simoom came into the entrance ➞
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October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
33

of the bay and stopped on the surface, surrounded
by her children. Springer grabbed
one last fish from her pen and went free.
As soon as she was guided out of the net
Springer’s voice rang out and she sped towards
Simoom, only to stop short and bury
herself shyly in a kelp bed. Simoom also
seemed unsure and backed out of the bay.
Our hearts fell when Springer moved out
of the bay towards a log.
The next morning Springer was still
alone. She came over and attached herself
to my boat. With the permission of the Department
of Fisheries and Oceans (DFO), I
took her to her family. Springer called while
swimming alongside me and her family
turned around and approached us. When
we got close I stopped, and as Springer
drifted at my side, matriarch Scimitar came
to us. The next thing I saw were the rapid
fluke prints of Springer fleeing to the north.
Scimitar and the others had remained absolutely
silent, and Springer had likely been
taught that a silent whale was a dangerous
whale—a transient mammal-eater that she
must avoid.
All that day the wild whales and the orphan
milled about in Blackfish Sound, always
separated by a kilometre or more. The
wild whales were faced with a dilemma.
This baby was speaking their dialect, but
where did it come from, was it real and who
was it? In typical orca fashion they studied
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250-245-7887
the situation. While at any given moment
the whale movements looked random, they
circled A73 cautiously, trying to learn as
much as possible without vocalizing and
thereby inviting her into the pod.
At 6:30 pm the wild whales entered
Johnstone Strait. Whale protocol demands
they vocalize when they enter this body of
water. Springer heard them and that was
her cue—she raced after them. She announced
herself as she entered Johnstone
Strait and flung herself into the group,
spyhopping and rubbing. Thus I learned that
sound is more important to whales than
vision. The sight of Scimitar had scared
Springer, but her voice had beckoned.
The next morning Springer was dropped
off by the same whales and deserted in a
kelpbed. She spent a terrible day going up
to boats and many thought she would have
to be recaptured. The next morning I encountered
the three brothers that are the
A36s. They were sleeping until they heard
Springer. She woke them up and they approached
and began feeding enroute.
Springer sped towards them and they
didn’t miss a beat. No breaching, no excited
vocals. It seemed fine with them that
this baby came out of nowhere and joined
their group. They were such ‘guys’
about this unprecedented event—no fuss.
Springer headed south with them into
Johnstone Strait, skipping among them.
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Then the most amazing thing happened.
Over 100 whales came steaming in from
the west to form the biggest superpod ever
recorded in July. They swept over the brothers
and their young charge, and Springer,
who had shaken off her transmitters by now,
was lost among her own kind.
Twenty-four hours later, Graeme Ellis of
DFO radioed us that he had found her with
young A51. A51 is Sharky’s daughter of the
A5 pod. Sharky had died when A51 was
eleven and her little brother was two. A51
is now sixteen and she seemed to adopt
Springer. On two occasions Springer wandered
off towards boats and A51 retrieved
her. Then the mass of whales took the baby
and went back to the west.
Over the next few weeks we saw Springer
with several different whales. She was seen
with her grandmother, Kelsy and we heard
a report of a young whale approaching
boats. It appeared Kelsy was letting this
baby wander too much. Then Springer
found the twelve year-old daughter of her
Great Aunt.
It might be that Springer has become a
target of young females wanting to “play
house”, but it might also be that she is
gradually homing in on where she best belongs.
Her first adoptive mother possesses
a dialect with more variation than the young
female she swims with now. The best fit vocally
is her grandmother, but Kelsy has not
excelled as mother, and Springer might
want a cosier fit.
For now this story ends on a positive note,
but we won’t really know Springer’s fate
until next summer. When the pods fragment
for the winter, she will have to make a good
selection, because she will no longer be
able to move as easily from group to
group. Her new family will have to share
the meagre resources of winter with their
little tag-along. Springer, like all young animals,
is a work in progress. Her delivery
back to the wild whales has been a remarkable
collaboration among people who have
often been in conflict over other issues. She
is a sign of hope. ❏
© Alexandra Morton
(RPBio) is a marine
mammal scientist and
writer in British Columbia’s
Broughton Archipelago.
wildorca@island.net
Visit her new website at
www.raincoastresearch.org.
Be sure to read
Listening to Whales,
Alexandra Morton’s
amazing life story.
Ballantine 2002.
ISBN 0-345-43794-2.
It’s a fantastic book and
will make a great gift!
34 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

Web Paddling
Follow the Sun
For those of us above the 49th parallel,
around about October and Novermber
we find our minds starting to drift down
those magical lines on the globe, to lines
of a lower number that offer us dreams of
sun and adventure. Just the talk of it and I
am drifting down Costa Rica way....
Hey, snap out of it, Ted. Back to work.
Right. Now where was I...?
WaveLength knows this phenomena, of
course, and it has become a tradition that
at this time of year, we feature exotic destinations
from around the world.
This year we have put together a Winter
Getaways Directory for those who wish to
dream, or those who have decided that this
is the year to turn dreams into reality. The
Directory can be found on the next two
pages of this magazine.
Better yet, the web version includes hot
links to take you ‘virtually’ to these tropical
locations. Just go to the WaveLength
Home Page and “Follow the Sun”.
You can take your choice of visiting locations
we cover in this issue’s articles—
Chile, Brazil, Cuba, South Africa, Baja—or
some we don’t—Fiji, Tonga, New Zealand,
Thailand, Honduras, Costa Rica. Plus some
of the many places in between.
Ted Leather, the WaveLength
Webmaster, operates Clayrose
Internet Creations, an internet
services company specializing in
website design and management
(ted@clayrose.com).
Ted Leather
www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
Most of these websites have luscious photos
and intriguing offerings, and many will
have useful links to other great spots. Before
long, you’ll have a pretty good idea of
what’s out there for you. And a glance outside
your window this fall and winter will
answer the question “why”.
So what are you waiting for?
EcoInterpreter Training
in Natural and Cultural History
Local workshops
Custom developed programs
Rod Burns, B.Ed, CPHI
BOLD POINT CENTRE
Quadra Island, BC
Ph/fax: 250 285 2272
bph@connected.bc.ca
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Roll-Aid Safety Inc. P.O. Box 72005, Vancouver, BC V6R 4P2
(604) 224-4010 Fax (604) 224-4045 www.roll-aid.com Patented.
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
35

Winter Getaways Directory 2002-03
ASIA and the SOUTH PACIFIC
• FIJI, AUSTRALIA, etc.—Southern Sea
Ventures offers sea kayaking in Fiji,Vanuatu,
Australia (Hinchinbrook and Flinders Island),
Antarctica, Greenland and the High Arctic.
Fully catered, expedition style and
mothership adventures in both the tropical
and polar worlds. For our 2003 colour brochure,
call toll free: 1-888-464-8735. Email:
info@southernseaventures.com Web:
www.southernseaventures.com.
• NEW ZEALAND—Natural High Cycling
and Seakayaking operate tours in the world
famous Abel Tasman National Park at the top
of the South Island in New Zealand. Guided
1-5 day catered or uncatered tours, paddle
& walk combos, Freedom rentals with all
necessary equipment supplied. Take the time
to visit. More details: Ph: 64-3-5466936.
Web: www.seakayaknewzealand.com.
—Southern Exposure are Abel Tasman National
Park specialists. Sea Kayak, Guided
Tours, Rentals, Backpackers, Water Taxi.
Sandy Bay, RD2, Motueka, 7160, New Zealand.
Email: info@southern-exposure. co.nz.
Web: www.southern-exposure.co.nz.
• THAILAND, etc—John Gray’s SeaCanoe.
Tropical kayaking pioneer John Gray’s
Seacanoe has offered award winning natural
history by sea kayak since 1983. Seen
worldwide on CBC, PBS, National Geographic
and more. South Thailand, North
Vietnam, Philippines, Hawai’i, and Fiji. Tel:
(66-76) 254-505/6/7. Email: info@johngrayseacanoe.com.
• TONGA——Friendly Islands Kayak Company
offers Adventure Week in the Vava’u
Archipelago, Kingdom of Tonga: Whale
watching aboard 9 metre RIB, Tropic Bird
(Day 1), Diving or Sailing (Day 2), Sea
kayaking (Days 3-6), Mtn Biking (Day 7)
plus 5 nights accommodation, meals,
Polynesian feast, farewell dinner.
Cdn$1570. For the active traveller! Friendly
Islands Kayak Company. New Zealand Ph/
Fax: 64 3 482 1202. Email: tours@fikco.
com. Web: www.fikco.com.
SOUTH and CENTRAL AMERICA and
the CARIBBEAN
• BELIZE, CUBA, etc—Sea Kayaking and
Multi-sport trips in Belize, Cuba, Panama,
and Vietnam with Global Adventures. Paddle
and explore pristine cayes. Snorkel in
calm, reef-filled waters and relax on warm
sandy beaches. Experience the beautiful, preserved
wilderness and limestone caves. Paddle
down jungle rivers. Enjoy the local cuisine,
music and culture. All 3 to 12-day trips
fully outfitted, with experienced guides. All
destinations also available as women-only
trips. Tel: 1-800-781-2269, or (604) 947-
2263. Email: info@globaladventures.ca.
Web: www. globaladventures. ca.
• BRAZIL—Brazil Adventure Routes. Escorted
tropical adventures with linguist/
guide, Guido Botto. Ph: 250-714-5609,
gbotto@shaw.ca, www.kayakingbrazil.com.
• CHILE—Kayak Futaleufu / Kayak International
offers quality paddling trips to
WEST COAST EXPEDITIONS
Educational Nature Tours since 1974
Sea Kayaking in the Kyuquot Wilderness, BC
Toll Free 800-665-3040
www.island.net/~nature
•Basecamp comforts
•Educational focus
•Cultural contact
•Family oriented
•All-inclusive
Check out
WaveLengthMagazine.com
for hotlinked listings.
Chile and Canada with some of the world’s
best guides/instructors (World Champion
Ken Whiting, National Coach Kevin Varette
and others). Kayak Futaleufú is our private,
luxurious base camp on Chile’s Futaleufú
River. Private riverside cabins, sauna,
hottub, great meals, latest boats, 3:1 instructor/student
ratio, and exclusive 2-day overnight
trip. Trips to meet all budgets, from
all-inclusive to basics. Free video, brochure!
Ph: (450) 922-1796. Email: info@kayak
international.com. Web: www.kayak
international.com, and www.kayakfu.com.
• COSTA RICA—December through April
winter getaways to a Costa Rican paradise
with Gulf Island Kayaking of Galiano Island,
BC. 14 years experience in Costa Rica.
Lodge-based, protected waters in the morning,
surf and sea stacks in the afternoon.
Single hardshell kayaks. Headland, cove
and estuary paddling. Side trips to
Corcovado and Tañu Island National Parks.
Combine with 3-day mountain birding
tours. Ph/fax 250-539-2442. Email:
kayak@gulfislands.com. Web:www.sea
kayak.bc.ca/tour.
—Costa Rica is perfect for nature lovers and
outdoor adventure enthusiasts. Spectacular
scenery, amazing wildlife, friendly people &
excellent guides. Eclectic 8 & 12 day itineraries
Feb. 2003 with Island Escapades. Enjoy
Kayaking, Sailing, Hiking, Bird Watching...
Email: escapades@saltspring.com. Web:
www.island escapades.com. Ph: 1-888-kayak-
67 (529-2567) or 250-537-2537.
—Seascape Kayak Tours to Costa Rica.
Since 1996, exceptional, safe, educational
sea kayaking adventures in a tropical paradise.
3-8 days. Traveling in small groups,
explore the warmth and rich bio-diversity
of the Pacific Coast. Novice and experienced
paddlers are welcome. Toll Free
Canada & US: 1-866-747-1884. Web:
www.seascapekayaktours.com. Email:
seascape@nbnet. nb.ca.
—Popo’s Adventures offers whitewater rafting,
sea kayaking, monkey tours. Located
at one of Costa Rica’s best known surf
breaks. We have everything you’ll need to
explore Costa Rica’s vast wonders. Ph: 001-
506-656-0086. Email: poposca@racsa.
co.cr. Web: www.poposcostarica.com.
Also check out: www.adventureracing
costarica.com.
• CUBA—Cuba1 Tours has been designing
tours and taking groups to Cuba since 1993.
36 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

Mike Sheehan photo
sea kayak and adventure travel company in
the area, Paddling South offers guests the best
of culturally and eco-responsible tourism. Join
challenging mountain biking, historical pack
trips and spectacular paddling in Baja: 800-
398-6200. Web: www.tourbaja.com.
Email: info@tourbaja.com.
—Kayak Baja in style with Nancy Mertz and
Terry Prichard’s Sea Kayak Adventures Inc.
Whale watching and desert wilderness. Call
800-616-1943. Email: info@seakay
akadventures.com.Web: www.seakayak
adventures.com.
A variety of specialized and custom tour
packages available. Tour information can
be found at www.cuba1 tours.com.
• HONDURAS—Escape on a wondrous
Caribbean adventure at West Peak Inn. Visit
the remote communities of a tropical wilderness
isle. Paddle the clear warm seas of
coral shoals and mangrove marshes, hike
the fresh water creeks, snorkel and scuba
the unspoiled coral colonies of colorful fish,
kayak the coves and outlaying cayes of the
beautiful lush island of Guanaja. Tel: 831-
786-0406. Email: wpi@vena.com Web:
www.westpeak inn.com.
—Uncommon Adventures offers Paddling,
Palm Trees, Parrots and Pina Coladas! Join
us in the Bay Islands, Honduras for private
island lodge based trips, reef and rainforest
combination trips and the finest meals and
instruction possible. www.uncommon
adv.com 1-866-882-5525.
NORTH AMERICA
• FLORIDA—Paddle with manatees, discover
beautiful springs or explore a Florida
swamp with Adventure Outpost. Each
week, author, naturalist and historian Lars
Andersen leads 2-3 excursions to waterways
such as Suwannee, Ocklawaha, Santa
Fe, Rainbow and Crystal Rivers—and many
more. Outdoor gear, kayaks and canoes
for sale or rent. (386) 454-0611 http://
www.adventureoutpost.net.
• MEXICO—Gabriola Cycle & Kayak offers
6-10 day trips for fit independent adventurers
who like exercise, beachlife, and
lots of freedom on their holidays. Paddle
mostly single kayaks. You bring your own
camping gear and a few group meals. 14th
year in Mexico. Nov-Apr, from Loreto. Ph:
250-247-8277 Email: info@gck.ca Web:
www.gck.ca
—Explore Baja’s beautiful desert islands in the
Sea of Cortez with Nahanni Wilderness Adventures.
Local guide/interpreters. Based at Villas de
Loreto. Trips: Nov., Christmas, March. 888-897-
5223. Email: adventures@ nahanniwild.com.
Web: www.nahanniwild.com.
—Baja sea kayaking: ‘where desert meets
the sea’. Join Pacific Rim Paddling Company
for warm water paddling, snorkelling
and great food. Small groups. Owner operated
since 1984. Ph: (250) 384-6103. Email:
info@PacificRimPaddling.com. Web:
www.PacificRimPaddling.com.
—Paddling South operates great tours year
round in the tranquil town of Loreto. The first
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—Tofino Expeditions runs week-long Baja
sea kayaking trips from November through
April. Paddle the Sierra Giganta Coast,
Magdalena Bay and the islands of Bahia
Loreto. Full service trips with a focus on
natural history interpretation and great
camp cuisine. Free catalogue: 800-677-
0877 www.tofino.com
—The Villas de Loreto Difference. Kick off
your shoes & make yourself at home. With
the resort’s intimate size and friendly staff,
you’ll feel like family. New at Villas, a restaurant
where dining is as casual as you are.
The activities are Kayaking, Diving, Fishing,
Cycling and Whale Watching. Ph: 011-52-
113-50586. www.villasdeloreto. com. ❏
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37

UNCLASSIFIEDS
RENTALS, TOURS, LESSONS
rbruce@gulfislands.com
121 Boot Cove Rd.
Saturna Island, BC V0N 2Y0
seaotter@he.net
www.he.net/~seaotter/
Ph/Fax: 250-539-5553
YEAR/MODEL PRICE NEW YOU SAVE
’98 Nimbus Skana $2500 $4842 $2342
’98 Necky Tesla $2000 $3499 $1499
’99 Nimbus Skana $2600 $4842 $2242
’99 Necky Arluk $2300 $3499 $1199
’99 Necky Tesla $2300 $3499 $1199
’00 Nimbus Skana $2700 $4842 $2142
’00 Necky Arluk III $2499 $3499 $1000
’00 Necky Arluk IV $2499 $3499 $1000
’00 Necky Tesla $2499 $3499 $1000
All kayaks are fiberglass. Taxes extra. Each comes with a
used PFD and sprayskirt. Used paddles and other gear
available for great prices. Please call to book a demo time.
1-866-885-6440
Gwaii Haanas
“Place of Wonder”
Six-day Wilderness Voyages
Mothership Kayaking
Archipelago Ventures Ltd.
Queen Charlotte Islands Haida Gwaii
www.island.net/~archipel
Toll free 1-888-559-8317
AWESOME KAYAKING—FREE CAMPING
We Simply Offer a Better Experience!!
Excellent equipment, superior service
since 1991. Sechelt, BC
(at Tillicum Bay Marina).
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pedals_paddles@sunshine.net www.sunshine.net/paddle
BOOK AHEAD: 1-866-885-6440 or (604)885-6440
‘Bringing people to paddling’
WaveLength helps you reach
potential customers worldwide.
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PRINT and WEB editions.
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Sea kayak trips amid tropical
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of a Caribbean wilderness isle.
Tel: 831-786-0406
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Tree Island Kayaking 3025 Comox Rd.
Courtenay, BC
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May to October
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Rentals • Lessons • Tours • Necky Sales
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Kayak Lessons, Rentals & Tours
Custom Classes/Tours
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info@SealegsKayaking.com
ZEBALLOS EXPEDITIONS & KAYAKS
Paddle the Breathtaking West Coast of Vancouver Island
RENTALS TOURS TRANSPORTATION
TRIP PLANNING
Nootka, Kyuquot, Bunsbys, Brooks
PO Box 111, Zeballos, BC V0P 2A0
Phone 250 761-4137
kayak@netcom.ca www.zeballoskayaks.com
If you’re planning a paddling trip near
Northern Vancouver Island or the
Central Coast, RENT from us.
ODYSSEY KAYAKING LTD.
Toll free 1-888-792-3366
250-902-0565
odyssey@island.net
www.odysseykayaking.com
The Villas de Loreto Difference!
Kick off your shoes & make yourself
at home. With our resort’s intimate
size and friendly staff, you’ll feel
MEXICO
like family. New at Villas, a restaurant where
dining is as casual as you are. The activities are Kayaking,
Diving, Fishing, Cycling and Whale Watching. Come join
us. Ph: 011-52-613-135-0586
www.villasdeloreto.com
Your home base for
Exceptional GULF ISLANDS Paddling!
Kayak Rentals, Lessons and Wildlife Tours.
8 Fully equipped cottages.
www.bluevistaresort.com
877-535-2424
SPIRIT BEARS! WHALES!
Explore Princess Royal Island and the
Kitasoo/Xiaxais Traditional Territory
on the Central Coast of BC
Fully inclusive kayak and wildlife/culture tours
Kayak rentals, transportation, accommodation
Klemtu Tourism 1 877-644-2346
tours@kitasoo.org www.kitasoo.org
Winter Getaways to Costa Rica Feb. 2003

1-800-889-7644
MAYNE ISLAND
ECO-CAMPING & TOURS INC.
Located on Seal Beach
Showers•Hot tub•Kayak Sales•Instruction•Launch
2 bedroom Cottage available daily, weekly or B&B.
PO Box 40 Mayne Island BC, Canada V0N 2J0
www.mayneisle.com/camp
camp@mayneilse.com
Ph/Fax: 250-539-2667
NEW ZEALAND
Seakayak & Cycle Tours & Rentals
Natural High, Adrenalin Dealers
WWW.SeakayakNewZealand.com
WWW.CycleNewZealand.com
adventure@natural-high.co.nz
64-3-5466936
64-3-5466954 fax
EXTREME INTERFACE
is your Vancouver Island connection for
Azul, Sun, Riot & Extreme Interface
Kayaks & accessories.
New, demo & used kayaks available
www.extremeinterface.com
250-248-2075
CATALA KAYAKING
Located “on the bay” in Port Hardy BC
Toll Free 800-515-5511
Rentals & Transportation
Bed & Breakfast
www.catalacharters.net
info@catalacharters.net
NORTH ISLAND KAYAK
Port Hardy & Telegraph Cove
Rentals & 1-6 Day Guided Trips
Toll Free 1-877-949-7707
www.KayakBC.ca
nikayak@island.net
Baja Sea Kayak Adventures
with Nahanni Wilderness Adventures
Explore Baja’s beautiful desert
islands in the Sea of Cortez.
Local guides/interpreters.
Based at Villas de Loreto.
Call Toll Free: (ph/fax) 1-888-897-5223
Email: adventures@nahanniwild.com
Website: www.nahanniwild.com
SEA KAYAK TONGA WITH
FRIENDLY ISLANDS KAYAK CO.
ADVENTURE & WHALEWATCH WEEKS
in the peaceful tropical Kingdom of Tonga.
Sea kayak, mountain bike, snorkel,
whalewatch, sail, dive with
FRIENDLY ISLANDS KAYAK CO.
tours@fikco.com www.fikco.com
BROWNING PASS HIDEAWAY
Kayakers’ cabin rentals right out in Queen Charlotte
Strait. Rustic floating 1 & 3 bedroom cabins, plus an
8-bed kayakers’ hostel with full kitchens, bath/showers,
lounges. Amazing day paddles right out the front
door, or great for stopovers in multi-day Gordon
Island trips. Kayak rentals & transport from Port
Hardy plus all-inclusive pkgs available.
info@clavella.com 877 725-2835
COSTA RICA
SINCE 1987
GALIANO ISLAND KAYAKING
KAYAK COSTA RICA
Lodge-based, protected waters and surf, single/
hardshell kayaks, mountain birding tour option.
Ph/Fax: 250/539-2442
kayak@gulfislands.com
www.seakayak.bc.ca/tour
SPECIALIZING IN MARINE AREAS IN BRITISH COLUMBIA
15 MAPS AVAILABLE
Bella Bella, Hakai Passage, Johnstone Strait, Broughton
Archipelago, Kyuquot, Desolation, Nootka, Barkley &
Clayoquot Sounds, Gulf Islands, Georgia Strait, Sunshine
Coast, Esperanza Inlet, Quatsimo-Goletas Channel.
www.coastalwatersrec.com
info@coastalwatersrec.com
BC, BAJA, TUSCANY & BEYOND...
Saltspring Kayaking
Daily Tours, Rentals & Sales
Ph/Fax: 250/653-4222
sskayak@saltspring.com
www.saltspring.com/sskayak
2923 Fulford-Ganges Rd., Saltspring Island, BC V8K 1X6
ADVENTURE CENTER
Kayak Rentals & Tours
Oufitting, motherships & kayak transport
8635 Granville Street Port Hardy, BC
Toll Free 1-866-902-2232
Adventure-ecotours.com
Sea Kayak Guides
Alliance of BC
The Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC is a
non-profit society which upholds high
standards for professional sea kayak
guides and operators in BC. Through ongoing
professional development and
certification, the Alliance strives to ensure
safe practices on an industry-wide basis.
FALL 2002
Fall Exchange: Oct. 18-19
Annual General Meeting: Oct. 20
Assistant Guide Exam: Oct. 21-22
Lead Guide Exam: Oct. 25-27
For information, contact Tracy
WWW. at majestic@island.net
SKGABC.COM
SKGABC EXECUTIVE:
PRESIDENT
Michael Pardy
VICE PRESIDENTS
Colin MacNeil
Kerry Orchard
SECRETARY/TREASURER
Tracy Morben
COORDINATING DIRECTOR
Camillia Brinkman
MEMBERS AT LARGE
Jack Rosen
Piper Harris
Kirsten Musial
SKGABC Membership
To become a member of the Alliance, mail
this form and a cheque to the address below.
___ Company Membership—$100/year
___ Individual Membership—$35/year
___ Associate Membership—$25/year
___ Alliance T-shirt
Name__________________________
Address________________________
______________________________
Phone_________________________
Email__________________________
Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC
P.O. Box 1005, Station A,
Nanaimo BC, V9R 5K4
majestic@island.net

Business Opportunities
CHILEAN PATAGONIA SEAKAYAKING
CENTER FOR SALE BY OWNER.
Completely outfitted, custom built lodge, dock
and 3 bedroom challet on a beautiful seafront 6
acre property. www.seakayakchile.com/onsale.
Email: altue@seakayakchile.com.
GLACIER BAY ALASKA KAYAK
OUTFITTING BUSINESS FOR SALE
Always wanted to move to Alaska? Here’s
your ticket. Since 1996, Sea Otter Kayak has
been outfitting paddlers for adventures into
Glacier Bay National Park & beyond. Business
is operating & fully equipped. Asking
US$62,500. Call Maureen or Ed at 907-226-
2338 for more info.
Kayaks
WANTED: We’ll buy your kevlar Current
Designs Libra XT (used double). Please call
Art at 250-595-2559.
FOR SALE: Feathercraft K-1 Expedition.
Much loved, very good condition: 250-725-
2484.
FOR SALE: Kevlar Necky Arluk 2. Mint
condition! $2800 firm. Options, spray skirt
and paddle float for $50, graphite paddle for
$150. Call Deb in Victoria at 250-383-5487.
FOR SALE: 2002 Current Design Solstice
GTS, red & ivory, hardly used. Asking $3000
OBO Accessories extra. Call 250-753-7234
FOR SALE: Seaward Southwind K2—$2500
US. Seaward Tyee K1—$2000 US. Both high
volumn expedition kayaks in good condition.
800-616-1943 info@seakayakadventures.com
All ads in WaveLength appear in
both the PRINT and WEB editions.
NEWS
MORATORIUM LIFTED
In mid-September the BC government
announced the lifting of the seven year
moratorium on the expansion of fish farms
in BC and said it will provide millions of
dollars of assistance to the industry for ‘research’.
This has led to a storm of protest.
Chief Stewart Phillip, President of the
Union of BC Indian Chiefs, has announced
that the UBCIC categorically rejects the
government’s move to lift the moratorium
within First Nations territories.
“We have witnessed the negative impacts
of the existing fish farms and the devastation
those non-indigenous aquaculture operations
inflict on our First Nations people,
the marine environment, and the entire fishing
industry,” stated Chief Phillip.
Thousands upon thousands of escaped
Atlantic salmon displace wild indigenous
salmon from their traditional waters and
spawning grounds, Chief Phillip said. “With
the wild salmon fishery already in jeopardy,
there is now an even greater potential for
our wild stocks to be completely wiped out”.
“These farmed fish are force fed drugs
that poison and destroy local marine life.
In addition, the outbreak of terminal disease
within the farmed fish population is
on the increase. Effluent from fish contaminates
shellfish and wild stocks, and poses
a great threat to the environment. The health
of our First Nations people as well as the
consumer public is at stake”.
Chief Phillip has demanded a full review
on the impacts of fish farming industry be
undertaken in consultation with First Nations
people. “We are not merely a ‘stake
holder’ with special interests. Fishing is and
will continue to be an aboriginal right. As
First Nations people, we will honor our responsibility
to the fishery with an undeniable
zero tolerance approach”.
The Union of BC Indian Chiefs was established
in 1969. www. ubcic.bc.ca.
PINK SALMON CRASHING
At press time there appears to have been
a near-total collapse of pink salmon in BC’s
Broughton Archipelago, likely the result of
the sea lice epidemic there last year.
Most of the runs “have resoundly
crashed”, says Alexandra Morton. The Ahta
River run, for example, has dropped from
48,000 fish to just 220. Results from the
Broughton rivers to date show a drop from
3.6 million fish in 2000 (the broodyear of
these fish), down to 33,220 this year, a drop
of over 99%!
Pinks are very susceptible to sea lice, but
in a natural setting there would no adult
infested salmon in the inlets at the time pink
salmon smolts migrate to the sea. Unfortunately,
it appears that fish farm net pens in
these areas last year passed lethal levels of
lice to the outflowing pink smolts.
It was Alexandra Morton’s research last
year, that showed pink salmon smolts were
heavily infested with sea lice.
Morton says that in future, fish farms on
the wild migration routes must be left fallow
till the pinks have gone to sea, because,
as she says, the pinks “cannot sustain another
hit like this without going extinct”.
News continued on p. 42
North Island Kayak Rentals & Tours
Two Locations:
Telegraph Cove and the
Port Hardy Adventure Center
Anchorage Marina has a great
inventory of Current Designs kayaks
and friendly staff to help you choose
the right kayak for you. Check out
our expanded kayaking accessories
department. Try before you buy!
1520 Stewart Ave., Nanaimo, BC.
Phone: 250-754-5585
WWW.ANCHORAGEBOATS.COM
1-6 day Guided Trips & Rentals
Toll Free 877-949-7707
nikayak@island.net
www.KayakBC.ca
40 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

Great Gear, New Kayaks
Airzone Recreation Inc. has patented the
Pneumatic tent pole technology. It is by far
the easiest tent in the world to set-up and
take down. These tents will completely selferect
(CO 2
cartridge 8 seconds, air tank 20
seconds, bicycle pump 45 seconds) and
deflate by releasing the valve. Live demo
at www.airzonerecreation.com.
The Aqua Quest Canyon Duffel is essential
for anybody involved in water-related
activities or adventure travel. It has compression
straps on both top and sides to
secure your load. Additional features include
a roll-down watertight closure system,
RF-welded seams, and a padded nonslip
detachable shoulder strap. Makes a
great gift for the traveller on your list!
Weight: 1.1 kg. Fabric: 620 gm. Vinyl. Capacity:
50 litres. Price: $83.99 Cdn. Phone:
604-970-2890. info@venturequest.net.
Web: www.venturequest.net.
Paddle Costa Rica
North Water’s Expedition Deck Bag, Peaked
Deck Bag and Paddle Floats are now available
with a Radar Enhancing Fabric.
Kayakers often travel in low light and unpredictable
weather conditions such as rain and/
or fog. Kayaks, given their low profile and
non-metallic construction, are poor radar
targets. Suggested retail prices: Expedition
Deck Bag $83 US, the others $53 US.
northwater @northwater.com, 604-264-
0820
The Mark II Kayak, from Long Haul Folding
Kayaks features a beautiful laminated birch
and ash hardwood frame, stainless steel fittings,
and claims to have the finest cotton
and hypalon hull in the world. It comes
equipped with rudder assembly, travel bags
and spraycover. Boat package options are:
Classic, Expedition and Quattro. Ph: 970-
856-3662. www.longhaulfoldingkayaks.
com. Long Haul Products, 1685-2075 Drive
Cedaredge, CO, USA 81413.
Books
The Good Alternative
Travel Guide by Mark
Mann with Zainem
Ibraham, Earthscan
Publications 2002.
ISBN 1-85383-837-3,
softcover, B&W, 246 pp
If you’re looking for an
exotic holiday adventure and wish to support
the local culture, economy and environment,
this is the book for you. It explains
the principles of ‘community-based tourism’
and lists hundreds of guest houses and tours,
with full contact details to help you arrange
your holiday. These tours benefit local people
and help preserve nature while offering
insight into the ‘real’ culture of the area.
The Beachcomber’s
Guide to Seashore Life of
California by J. Duane,
Harbour Publishing 2002,
ISBN 1-55017-251-4,
Softcover, Color, 312 pp.
$17.95 US, $28.95 Cdn
This beautiful, easy-touse
field guide catalogues over 400 animals
and plants commonly seen along the California
seashore. For each entry, the author
(a biologist & photographer) has included
the common name, scientific name, color
photo, description, size, habitat, range and
notes on interesting characteristics. He also
includes information on understanding
tides, how to view intertidal life in an ecologically
responsible manner, and lists over
forty of the best beachcombing sites in California.
Exceptional, safe, educational
sea kayaking adventures in
a tropical paradise.
Toll Free Canada & US
1-866-747-1884
seascape@nbnet.nb.ca
www.seascapekayaktours.com
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
41

COMMENTARY by Alan Wilson & Laurie MacBride
Why lift the fish farm moratorium flow out of the country. What will be left for
now? This is an industry troubled, BC is a damaged environment.
with low prices and major disease challenges.
The BC government is foolishly that sealice from fish farms can devastate
The government is ignoring the evidence
putting faith in fish farming when it’s only a populations of wild salmon, and that escaped
matter of time until the industry collapses farmed fish are colonizing our rivers, competing
with endangered native Pacific spe-
under the weight of their own diseased and
dying fish.
cies. Any new jobs in the fish farm sector
IHN (an infectious fish disease) is causing
major losses at many BC fish farms. And industrializing the coast will threaten
will only undermine jobs in the wild fishery.
Kudoa (soft flesh disease) is epidemic in jobs in tourism, BC’s largest industry.
the industry. Toxic algae blooms on the What can we do? US readers of
west coast of Vancouver Island have recently
killed thousands of farmed fish, making a difference, and there are two ways
WaveLength have the greatest potential for
leading the company involved to dump to help. First, there’s the marketplace—over
the morts at sea.
90% of BC’s farmed fish is sold to the US!
The BC government rationalizes the If US consumers knew that the salmon
moratorium decision based on a wildly optimistic
estimate of 12,000 new jobs over plagued, drug-ridden industrial feedlots,
they’re getting is coming from disease-
the next ten years. Yet, around the world, and stopped buying it, the BC industry
jobs in fish farming are actually decreasing,
despite increasing production. With or go under. And this would effect the
would have to adopt sustainable practices,
80% of the BC industry owned by just five worldwide industry since the same companies
operate internationally.
multinationals (only one of which is Canadian),
the economic benefits will mostly How do you know if the fish you see in
Bryan Nichols photo
Charting a course for Clean Waters
Georgia Strait Alliance
(250) 753-3459 www.GeorgiaStrait.org
ODYSSEY KAYAKING
odyssey@island.net
www.odysseykayaking.com
stores and restaurants is farmed? You
don’t. The industry prefers to call it ‘Fresh
BC salmon’, so you have to ask—“Is it
wild or farmed?” Or ask if it’s Atlantic
salmon, since there are no wild Atlantic
fisheries left anywhere in the world.
The second way is less direct but very
important: take a paddling vacation in BC
and put money into local communities,
thereby helping to provide resources to a
sustainable, community-based alternative.
We must strengthen ecotourism as an
alternative to unsustainable fish farming,
so that First Nations and other coastal communities
don’t have to buy into polluting,
unsustainable industries out of desperation.
The Coastal Alliance for Aquaculture
Reform (CAAR), a group of ten environmental
and First Nations organizations,
is calling for the elimination of open net
cages, an end to disease transfer, environmental
waste, drugs and escapes, as well
as respect for local communities. For more
info, see www.farmedanddangerous.com
or www.GeorgiaStrait.org. ❏
NEWS cont.
FOREST RECREATION DISMANTLED
The BC government continues to move at
a fast pace in their plan to dismantle and
privatize the forest recreation system. Your
help is needed now! Please visit the ‘Take
Action’ section of www.earthcares.org/ and
send a letter about this to members of the
Legislature. Be sure to send a copy to the
Premier (premier@gov.bc.ca) and Minister of
Forests (mike.dejong.mla@leg.bc.ca).
NEW CAMPAIGNER
Christianne Wilhelmson is the Georgia
Strait Alliance’s new Clean Air & Water Coordinator.
She’ll be responsible for overseeing
GSA’s ToxicSmart program, along with
other pollution-focused work, working out
of GSA’s new Vancouver office, in the Dominion
Building on West Hastings: 604-
GIVE US A CALL
if you’re planning a paddling
trip on Northern Vancouver
Island or the Central Coast.
1-888-792-3366
250-902-0565
KAYAK & CANOE RENTALS INC.
DISCOVER THE BEAUTIFUL GULF ISLANDS
from our single and double kayaks,
mainly Current Designs and Necky.
GROUP DISCOUNTS. BEGINNERS WELCOME.
Camping nearby at Seal Beach—hottub, outdoor shower.
Complimentary ferry pick-up and drop-off.
C-54 Miners Bay, Mayne Isand
BC, Canada V0N 2J0
Tel/Fax: 250 539-5599
maynekayak@gulfislands.com
www.maynekayak.com
42 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

633-0560, christianne@georgiastrait.org.
Christianne has a BA, BSc Honours in
Biology & Environmental/Resource Sciences,
and a MSc in Zoology (Ecology).
She’s currently studying for a Certificate of
Public Relations.
‘ESSENCE OF THE SEA’
Many of the ocean’s treasures are hidden
from view underwater or in remote areas,
making it difficult to see the reality of
this complex ecosystem. Therefore, Living
Oceans Society is working with over 40
artists who are interested in creating a portal
into the soul of the ocean. Artists and
photographers have created artistic images
that capture the richness of the ocean in 5
conservation hotspots identified in the
group’s Marine Protected Area campaign.
Other artists have worked from underwater
photography to create their interpretations.
The artistic images will highlight the
need for us to take steps to protect our
ocean now for future generations.
Participating artists include Robert
Bateman, Mark Hobson and Bill Helin.
There will be a travelling art show and a
variety of art products will be available. The
art will sell through silent, on-line auction
(www.livingoceans.org). The art will also be
available for viewing in Vancouver, Victoria
and Campbell River.
For more info contact Patrick Walshe at
250-973-6580, www.livingoceans.org.
CANOE MUSEUM WEBSITE
The Canadian Canoe Museum is announcing
the birth of its totally upgraded,
completely renovated new website. Visit
www.canoemuseum.net for the latest information
on exhibits, education programs,
and a special section on canoeing heritage.
THWAYTES LANDING
Thwaytes Landing is one of the last remaining,
residentially-zoned, large
oceanfront properties remaining in BC’s
Lower Mainland. Located in Indian Arm, it
is accessible only by water. Now this property
is becoming the Greater Vancouver
Regional District (GVRD)’s newest park.
Both the GVRD and the District of North
Vancouver have contributed $500,000 each,
two-thirds of the $1.5 million purchase price.
Now it’s up to The Land Conservancy of BC
(TLC) and the Pacific Parklands Foundation
to raise the remaining $500,000 by January
2004. Please make a donation to The Land
Conservancy of BC to ensure that this wonderful
property will be protected. All donors
receive a Canadian tax receipt.
130 acres, with 1,100 meters of shoreline,
and located mid-way up Indian Arm, it will
be a great campsite in time. Currently there
are no facilities. Until a management plan is
completed, paddlers and boaters may use
the rocky beach as a day-use rest area only.
Avoid the cliffs and respect the caretaker’s
privacy by staying away from the dock and
the other buildings. Build no fires and keep
dogs leashed. TLC The Land Conservancy of
BC, Ph: 604-733-2313. Email: Vancouver@
conservancy.bc.ca. Web: www.conservancy.
bc.ca.
➞
The next issue of WaveLength
(December/January)
‘KAYAK
CONSTRUCTION’
Deadline October 20th
Info@WaveLengthMagazine.com
Wooden Kayaks and other
materials, home building
projects, etc.
For WaveLength ads, subs,
or bulk orders: 1-800-799-5602.
Diane Coussens
Assistant Editor
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
43

If you want to be listed on the
WaveLength website, email
Diane@WaveLengthMagazine.com
NEWS cont.
NEW COURSE FOR GUIDES
This year, a new, mandatory, core course
was added to the Adventure Guide Certificate
requirements for those pursuing a career
in Guiding at community colleges. The
course, "Natural History Interpretation In
Canada", will help future guides expand their
knowledge base of natural and cultural history
in addition to their physical skillset.
The occupational standards and training
for this course are co-ordinated by the Canadian
Tourism Human Resources Council
continued on p. 46
Funny how
one thing
leads to
another...
For Brandon Nelson and
Heather Christensen, it
began with the dream of
kayaking the length of the
Sea of Cortez.That led to
clearing out their garage...
and ultimately to
Chesapeake kayak kits.
“Building the boats ourselves
and then paddling
them for 72 days along
such a desolate and harsh
coast, in total comfort the
whole time...This is the
definition of Joy!” (See their
inspiring story in Sea
Kayaker, April 2002.)
Whether your dream is
long-distance or short,
we’ve got a kayak kit that
makes getting ready almost
as fun as getting there.
32 easy-to-build
quality boat kits.
www.canoeandkayakcentre.com
paddlers@canoeandkayakcentre.com
Chesapeake Light Craft
1805 George Avenue, Annapolis, MD 21401
(410) 267-0137 info@clcboats.com
www.clcboats.com
44 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

WaveLength is available at over 500 outlets around North America, and globally at www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
RITCHIE ® Kayaking Compasses...
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Ritchie SportAbout
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Call, write or e-mail
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RITCHIE ® NAVIGATION
Since 1850. Your Most Important Instrument
243 Oak Street • Pembroke, MA 02359
Telephone (781) 826-5131 • Fax (781) 826-7336
http://www.ritchienavigation.com
SportAbout Kayak
Tie-Down Model X-TD
(Compass not included)
Wet Notes Model W-50,
the perfect waterproof
notebook.
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
45

NEWS cont.
(CTHRC), in partnership with industry and
educators.
Experienced outdoor guides wanting to
improve their interpretation skills can pursue
Interpretation Canada training modules
or professional certification through CTHRC.
In BC, Bold Point Centre on Quadra Island
offers EcoInterpreter training modules,
based on CTHRC guide standards.
For information on EcoInterpreter and
Heritage Interpreter training opportunities,
contact Rod Burns, at bph@connected. bc.ca
or phone / fax: 250 285 2272.
A Work of Art... made for Life!
Your Life...
Your Time...
Your Kayak.
Visit your
authorized dealer...
today.
COUNSELLING RESEARCH
A University of BC researcher is seeking to
interview those who have found wilderness
experiences to be healing or personally
transforming. Call Mark Ring: 604-827-
2937.
GABRIOLA RACE
The first annual Gulf Islands kayak race,
billed the ‘BC Championships’, was held
September 14th, at Gabriola Island. Organized
by Gabriola Cycle & Kayak, the race
was a great success—a hot, mirror-calm day
for the 36 racers, and fast times over the 23
km course. Here are the results...
NAME TYPE TIME (H.M.S)
1 Erik Borgness HPK 1.55.16
2 Neil Bailey HPK 1.55.18
3 Dave Vanderveen / Evono Masini DK 1.56.27
4 Ron Williams HPK 1.56.29\
5 Ben Fast / Stewart Shearer DK 1.59.19
6 Jeff Gallimore HPK 1.59.27
7 Jerome Truran FSK 2.02.00
8 Mike Gregory HPK 2.12.49
9 Bob Putnam HPK 2.12.54
11 Theo Dombrowski SK 2.16.01
12 Derek Crook / Erica Adams DK 2.16.40
13 Ron Carmichael FSK 2.16.58
14 Duff Waddle SK 2.21.44
15 Jeff Raymond FSK 2.24.55
16 Ashley Rowe / Eduardo Riva DK 2.25.08
17 Carolyn Daubeny HPK 2.26.48
18 Steve Hamilton SK 2.27.25
19 Marg Fedyna FSK 2.27.37
20 Micky Macdonald FSK 2.28.43
21 Nathanal Baker SK 2.29.40
22 Jim Demler / Joanne Hager DK 2.33.50
23 Scott McNeil SK 2.35.35
24 Karel Korinek SK 2.37.50
25 Mark Kaetler SK 2.38.15
26 Stuart Van Der Merve SK 2.40.18
27 Chris Glen Sk 2.40.34
28 Chris Kalnay SK 2.45.01
29 Katja Rademacher FSK 2.46.24
30 Claudette Poirier SK 2.47.07
31 Kelly Waugh SK 3.10.58
32 Roy McNair SK 3.24.34
33 Darryl Recerver SK 3.24.39
34 Richard Towers SK 3.28.40
35 Anita Kalnay SK 3.29.02
36 Boyd Kalnay SK 3.29.04
CALENDAR
Oct 5-6, 2nd annual San Diego Paddle Fest,
San Diego CA. info@aqua-adventures.com.
800-269-7792
Oct 23-27, British Canoe Union Training
Week, Tybee GA. Sea Kayak Georgia:
888 -529-2542. www.seakayakg eorgia.com
Feb 8 - 10, Outdoor Adventure Show,
Northlands Park, Edmonton, AB.
403-246-7276 coas@shawbiz.ca
Feb 15-17, Outdoor Adventure Show, BC
Place, Vancouver, BC. 403-246-7276
Feb 20-24, Outdoor Adventure Show,
International Centre, Toronto, ON.
905-477-2677 enaar@national.com
Apr 5-7, Outdoor Adventure Show, Roundup
Centre, Calgary, AB. 403-246-7276
GWAII HAANAS
A serene and wild place
where natural processes
occur unimpeded, where
humans accept they are a
part of this natural order...
Toll free: In Canada 1.877.655.1822
In USA 1.866.638.2844
www.cdkayak.com
http://parkscan.harbour.com/gwaii
For information or reservations:
1-800-HELLO BC
(in North America)
1-250-387-1642 (outside North America)
46 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com October/November 2002

Photo by: Leisure Works Images
Paddling Basics:
The "brace"
The "sweep"
The "ooh"
The "ahh"
The "oh baby"
A few basic skills every kayaker should know. Like having the good sense to
choose a Wilderness Systems boat with Phase 3 Outfitting, the patentpending
innovation that delivers the most comfortable ride in the business. It’s
available on almost all of Wilderness Systems' touring, recreational and sporting
kayaks. Visit your nearest dealer to try it out. Class dismissed.
www.wildernesssystems.com / US: 800 311-7245 / CAN: 613 382-2531
The Ultimate In Comfort And Control
October/November 2002 www.WaveLengthMagazine.com
47

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