Photographer Robert Kandiko shares his reasons for returning year ...

DestinationsAlaskaThe ice.Glacier Bay had been our initial exposure to Alaska and had set thestandard for ice, until years later we flew into Icy Bay from Yakutakto see entire fiords ice-choked. We paddled across open water on ourfirst day and slept in the gentle rain but awoke to a brisk wind thathad shifted the icepack onto our beach. With no option of leaving weentered a surreal world of blue-greens as the misty clouds descendedto the icy surface. Bergs popped and bumped as they were shifted bythe tides. In anticipation of the forced paddle ahead, we duct tapedour bows to push through the piecing bergs. The clouds cleared, thewind shifted, and we left in a wonderland of glistening white ice andblue skies under the St. Elias mountains. We had found a new “icestandard”.10 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE WINTER 2011 WINTER 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 11

DestinationsThe wildlife.The whales:The snowy summits of the Fairweather Range filled the horizon over the rolling seas ofIcy Straits as our four kayaks slid over the gentle swells. The first whale exploded upward in aspectacular breach then crashed back send a spray of water towards our boats. Then anotherwhale breached, then another. We set up camp at (appropriately named) Point Adolphus andstayed three nights. But there was little sleep as the 12 humpbacks screeched in the exhalesand breached with thunderous claps.AlaskaThe bears:Deep in the sheer walls of Misty Fiords welocated a sliver of gravel beach for a quick lunch. Thecreek filled the sir with the loud sound of rushing,tumbling water rushing off the mountains. Withlunch bags emptied on a drift log, Karen glanced leftto see the bronze hump of the bear movingtowards us through the high beach grass. Westuffed the food into the bags and stood justas the massive head emerged. A loud snortand it was upright on its hind legs, all sevenfeet of him. He shook his head and sniffedthe damp air. Somehow, frozen in fear, westood our ground and shouted, “Hey Bear.”After an eternity, or maybe five seconds, thegrizzly dropped to the ground, turned, anddisappeared into the grass. He was gone, butas we took our steps to the kayak we droppedas our knees buckled from the moment ofterror.12 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE WINTER 2011 WINTER 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 13