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WaveLength<br />

COAST&KAYAK<br />

The magazine of adventure and recreation on the water<br />

Volume 21, Issue 1<br />

Spring 2011<br />

FREE at select outlets and<br />

online or by subscription<br />

<strong>Magazine</strong><br />

BC’s Marine Trails<br />

Network is born<br />

We give an exclusive world preview<br />

to this epic new <strong>kayak</strong>ing option<br />

We’ve turned 20!<br />

Celebrate with us as we give<br />

away a custom kevlar Titan VI<br />

from Atlantis. Details inside.<br />

There’s more online in our multimedia edition: www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com


WEEKLY AND SPECIAL<br />

EVENTS THIS SUMMER<br />

• Every Wednesday, Women on Water<br />

Women only evening paddle with discounted rentals<br />

• May 15, 2011, Tour De Indian Arm Kayak and SUP Race<br />

Come join in fun and test your skills<br />

• June 25, 2011, Stand Up Paddle Board Demo Day<br />

Check out what the new boards have to offer<br />

Deep Cove Outdoors is now located at:<br />

352 Lynn Ave, North Vancouver 5min from 2nd Narrows Bridge<br />

Deep Cove Canoe & Kayak<br />

deepcove<strong>kayak</strong>.com / 604.929.2268<br />

Rentals • Lessons • Programs • Courses • Events<br />

2 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


This issue’s features:<br />

8 With this paddle, I thee wed<br />

A honeymoon well off the bridal path<br />

12 Made for adventure<br />

Introducing the BC Marine Trail<br />

16 Leg one: The North Island<br />

20 Leg two: Brooks/Kyuquot<br />

24 Leg three: Nootka<br />

30 Leg four: Clayoquot<br />

42 Pick a <strong>kayak</strong>, any <strong>kayak</strong><br />

What to consider when buying<br />

44 Ibis, the ancient seabird<br />

Wildlife<br />

8<br />

36<br />

44<br />

Regular items:<br />

6 News<br />

34 Tours and Services<br />

38 Kayaks<br />

Necky Looksha Elite,<br />

Atlantis Titan VI,<br />

Delta 20T<br />

43 Instruction Directory<br />

46 Skillset<br />

by Alex Matthews<br />

48 Paddle Meals<br />

by Hilary Masson<br />

50 Kayak-friendly<br />

Accommodation<br />

52 Fishing Angles<br />

by Dan Armitage<br />

Contents<br />

THE ORIGINAL BRITISH SEA KAYAK<br />

www.valleysea<strong>kayak</strong>s.com<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 3


The First Word<br />

Spring 2011 Volume 21, Number 1<br />

PM No. 41687515<br />

Editor John Kimantas<br />

Advertising Sales Brent Daniel<br />

Copy Editing Darrell Bellaart<br />

Cover Photo:<br />

Surveying sites for the BC<br />

Marine Trails Network meant<br />

long hours of paddling by<br />

volunteers. BCMTNA president<br />

Stephanie Meinke crosses<br />

toward Brooks Peninsula on one<br />

such trip to survey Heater Point.<br />

Photo by Stephan Meinke.<br />

COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE is an independent magazine<br />

available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling<br />

shops, outdoor stores, paddling clubs, marinas, events, etc.),<br />

and globally on the web. Also available by paid subscription.<br />

Articles, photos, events, news are all welcome.<br />

Find back issues, articles, events, writers guidelines and<br />

advertising information online at coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com<br />

SUBSCRIBE<br />

$20 for 1 year – 4 issues<br />

$35 for 2 years – 8 issues<br />

While Coast&Kayak <strong>Magazine</strong> is made available<br />

free, subscriptions ensure the magazine is delivered<br />

to your home and that you will never miss an issue.<br />

To subscribe, visit<br />

www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com/Subscribe.html<br />

or call 1-866-984-6437.<br />

Advertising rates and submission guidelines<br />

available at www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com<br />

ISSUE AD DEADLINE DISTRIBUTION<br />

Spring 2011 Feb. 4 March 1<br />

Summer 2011 April 15 May 16<br />

Fall 2011 July 1 Aug. 1<br />

Winter 2011 Oct. 1 Nov. 1<br />

A product of:<br />

Wild Coast Publishing<br />

#6 10 Commercial St.<br />

Nanaimo, B.C., Canada, V9R 5G2<br />

Ph: 1-866-984-6437 • Fax: 1-866-654-1937<br />

Email: <strong>kayak</strong>@coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com<br />

Website: www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com<br />

© 2010. Copyright is retained on all material (text, photos and graphics) in this magazine.<br />

No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form, print or electronic, for any purpose,<br />

except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing.<br />

Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with<br />

the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2010, courtesy<br />

of the Atlas of Canada. Also, our thanks to Geobase for some<br />

elements that may appear on Coast&Kayak maps.<br />

by John Kimantas<br />

What’s in a name? I guess I’ll find out<br />

Is it fitting or a cop-out to rename a magazine on its 20th birthday? Or is that<br />

a betrayal to history and tradition? Either way <strong>Wavelength</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> is officially<br />

Coast&Kayak <strong>Magazine</strong> now, though I expect unofficially it will be <strong>Wavelength</strong> forever<br />

in many people’s minds.<br />

Don’t get me wrong. <strong>Wavelength</strong> is a great name. Too good a name, actually. It’s<br />

so good that there are multiple other <strong>Wavelength</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong>s out there. There is:<br />

<strong>Wavelength</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong>, the weekly live music series and monthly<br />

zine based in Toronto; <strong>Wavelength</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong>, the official<br />

publication of the Association of Public Safety Communications<br />

Officials (APCO) in Canada; <strong>Wavelength</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> focusing on<br />

news and advances in radiation therapy, information management<br />

and neuroscience; and most troubling of all, <strong>Wavelength</strong><br />

<strong>Magazine</strong>, the UK surfing magazine. Woe be the subscriber<br />

who contacts me wondering where their next issue is and what<br />

happened to the free flip-flops they were promised. All I can do<br />

is point them in the general direction of England.<br />

This wouldn’t be a problem say 20 years ago, when <strong>Wavelength</strong> was first conjured<br />

up out there on Gabriola Island (with thanks to Alan and Peter and the rest for<br />

creating such a fantastic legacy). Today <strong>Wavelength</strong> runs into a problem that couldn’t<br />

have been anticipated 20 years ago – the electronic media. So much depends now on<br />

Google, and if you punch in <strong>Wavelength</strong> most of the 12.6 million or so search results<br />

will invariably involve Blue Tooth technology or similar (in case you were wondering,<br />

a wavelength is the spatial period of the wave or the distance over which the wave’s<br />

shape repeats. Not particularly poetic by definition.) Not to mention that if you go to<br />

the Official <strong>Wavelength</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> Facebook Page, it’s not us. It’s those Brit surfers.<br />

So I hope Coast&Kayak is distinct enough. I think it summarizes us nicely, since<br />

I like to think our focus extends beyond paddlers to anyone who loves the coast, so<br />

emphasizing that aspect isn’t a bad thing – though I’m sure many will appreciate the<br />

irony that the lead article in this magazine has no coast at all and more rafts than<br />

<strong>kayak</strong>s. My rebuttal is we are all about inclusion. Canoeists, paddleboarders, surf skiers,<br />

surf <strong>kayak</strong>ers – in fact, anyone who loves exploring by water – you’re all welcome here.<br />

If I owe anyone an apology I think it’s Canoe and Kayak, as we now share the same<br />

initials (C&K <strong>Magazine</strong>), but I’m sure the world is big enough for the two of us. At<br />

least it’s less crowded than the <strong>Wavelength</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> world.<br />

But to put minds at ease, the name is the only real change. The rest is a constant<br />

evolution, such as our multimedia online edition (please visit if you haven’t seen it<br />

yet), our rejigged website (the online Kayak Buyer’s Guide is awesome now), and other<br />

advances. So here’s to looking back at our history, and ahead to a great next 20 years!<br />

- John Kimantas<br />

We put aside paddles to hike the<br />

Nootka Trail. Get details on this<br />

magnificent route on page 26.<br />

Coast&Kayak <strong>Magazine</strong> is dedicated to making self-propelled<br />

coastal exploration fun and accessible. Safety and travel<br />

information is provided to augment pre-existing safety and<br />

knowledge. A safety course and proper equipment are advised<br />

before any exploration on water. See a list of paddling instruction<br />

locations at www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com<br />

4 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 5


News<br />

Summer 2011: it’s made for going around in circles<br />

Setting the speed record for<br />

circumnavigating Vancouver Island may<br />

be for the elite, but enough other circle<br />

adventures are set for 2011 to keep paddlers<br />

occupied in everything from competitive<br />

hauls to free-spirited fun runs.<br />

Back again is the Alert Bay 360, set this<br />

year for July 31 to coincide with the BC<br />

Day long weekend. It will feature a race<br />

around Malcolm Island (off Port McNeill<br />

on northern Vancouver Island). Plus the<br />

community gets involved with a Big House<br />

celebration, seafood buffet and First<br />

Nations cultural dance performances.<br />

The only catch: registration is being<br />

limited to 200 participants this year.<br />

Registration will take place online soon at<br />

www.alertbay360.com.<br />

Back for its 11th year is the Round<br />

Bowen Island Challenge. Well situated for<br />

Vancouver and Greater Seattle paddlers, the<br />

race is set for Sunday, June 26 and features<br />

a tough 35-kilometer slog around the Howe<br />

Sound island north of Vancouver. Visit<br />

roundbowenchallenge.com.<br />

Bound to entail less competition, the<br />

Gabriola 360 Fun Race takes place for<br />

its second year on Sunday, Aug. 21. The<br />

first year race organizers Silva Bay Kayak<br />

Adventures attracted 26 participants. Visit<br />

www.silvabayakaking.com.<br />

For more summer events, visit<br />

www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com/events.html<br />

Clayoquot at risk – again<br />

With plans already in the works for open<br />

pit mining of the iconic Catface Range in<br />

Clayoquot Sound, a new threat is being<br />

faced by Flores Island as logging company<br />

Iisaak is looking to build roads into an area<br />

it signed an agreement in 1999 to preserve<br />

from logging. The Wilderness Committee<br />

is launching an email petition to halt the<br />

logging. Visit wildernesscommittee.org to<br />

add your voice.<br />

Meanwhile, Coast&Kayak columnist<br />

Dan Lewis and partner Bonny Glambeck<br />

will be touring British Columbia coastal<br />

communities this spring with a presentation<br />

called ‘Secrets of Clayoquot Sound’.<br />

Bonny Glambeck photo<br />

The Catface Range from Dick and Jane<br />

Beach. See page 30.<br />

The seasoned naturalists and expedition<br />

paddlers will share stories about their<br />

adventures at home in Clayoquot Sound<br />

backed by wildlife and landscape shots<br />

from some of BC’s leading outdoor<br />

photographers.<br />

The show will cover the natural beauty<br />

and splendor of the Clayoquot Sound<br />

UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, the ecology<br />

of the region’s ancient rainforests and<br />

threats to that ecology including fish farms,<br />

logging and the open-pit mine proposal.<br />

For dates and details visit the Friends of<br />

Clayoquot Sound website at www.focs.ca.<br />

My Arctic Tern 14 is the<br />

most versatile and most fun<br />

of eleven boats I own.<br />

Ginni Callahan, Kayaking Guide<br />

FOLDING KAYAKS THAT TRAVEL THE WORLD<br />

dream in colour<br />

Designed by experience, built by you. At 32 pounds,<br />

Ginni says ‘Fourteen’ feels like she weighs nothing at all!<br />

Visit us in Port Townsend, Washington 360.385.6143<br />

www.pygmy boats.com<br />

top rated· ultra-light· rugged· high performance<br />

FEATHERCRAFT.COM / MADE IN CANADA / PADDLED WORLDWIDE<br />

6 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


News<br />

One new website address.<br />

All the <strong>kayak</strong>ing<br />

information you’ll ever need.<br />

• Back issues of magazines.<br />

• Kayak Buyer’s Guide.<br />

• Gear Buyer’s Guide.<br />

• Kayaking skills information.<br />

• Boat building information.<br />

• And much, much more.<br />

www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com<br />

When you’ve reached the edge<br />

of your world, ours begins<br />

Explore...<br />

Island lifestyle, adventure tours,<br />

unspoiled beauty, wildlife sightseeing,<br />

spectacular storm watching, fishing<br />

and <strong>kayak</strong>ing, Haida Gwaii Culture,<br />

diverse cultural heritage, surfing and<br />

beach walks<br />

Sandspit | Queen Charlotte | Skidegate | Tlell | Port Clements | Masset | Old Massett<br />

See what exists<br />

outside of<br />

cell coverage.<br />

Visit us at necky<strong>kayak</strong>s.com<br />

Get the free mobile app<br />

Get the free mobile app at<br />

at http://gettag.mobi<br />

http:/ / gettag.mobi<br />

Join our community<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 7<br />

JOP-032 Necky Kayaks Half Page Ad • <strong>Wavelength</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong> • 7.125” x 4.6875”• hammerquist.net sydney@hammerquist.net 425.285.3363


Destinations<br />

by Nikki Rekman / photos by Mark Klein<br />

With this paddle<br />

I thee wed<br />

This isn’t every girl’s<br />

dream honeymoon.But<br />

could it start a trend?<br />

8 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


The Grand Canyon<br />

A paddling honeymoon – I certainly did not have dreams<br />

of this as a little girl, I can assure you, but then again there<br />

are a few of those dreams that thankfully were never<br />

fulfilled.<br />

When Mark and I finally decided we were going to take<br />

the plunge into matrimony I figured there would be nothing<br />

traditional about our wedding. Heck, I was just thankful<br />

we were finally getting to this point. But to my delight<br />

and surprise this is the story of a paddling adventure that<br />

exceeded a little girl’s expectations.<br />

On Oct. 9. 2010 Mark and I were married. It was everything<br />

I had hoped for and much more – not a huge affair but one<br />

that was representative of who Mark and I are, shared of<br />

course with the important people in our lives. But Mark had<br />

his own idea of how to celebrate our life-long commitment –<br />

a paddle down the Grand Canyon for our honeymoon.<br />

Here is where the adventure begins. On October 11 we<br />

left our home near Vancouver, BC, and headed south to<br />

Flagstaff, Arizona, where we were to meet up with the crew<br />

from Canyon Explorations/Expeditions for a 15-day paddle<br />

down the Colorado. Also on the trip was our friend Lynne<br />

from Western Canoeing and Kayaking in Abbotsford, BC. So<br />

there we were, the three of us, at the put-in at Lee’s Ferry<br />

on the north shore of the Colorado. There was definitely the<br />

excitement of exploring a new river. And not just any river,<br />

but one that winds its way through the bottom of one of<br />

the most remarkable geological features on the planet: the<br />

Grand Canyon.<br />

Over the course of the first few days it was amazing to<br />

me how we lost our inhibitions with the total strangers we<br />

had only just met and ultimately became our own little river<br />

tribe. Picture the girls going upstream to pee and the boys<br />

going downstream – on the Colorado to adequately handle<br />

the number of people that visit each year you pee in the<br />

river and haul everything else out in sealed ammo boxes<br />

(also referred to as “the “groover” for the grooves left in<br />

your behind from the boxes before some river guide genius<br />

thought of using a toilet seat).<br />

I wasn’t sure at first how it would be unwinding all the<br />

craziness of the wedding and end-of-season work for me<br />

(I’m a sales representative in the paddling industry). It was<br />

work – the paddling, the river life, all the people and the<br />

weather – but the 225 miles were some of the most amazing<br />

paddling days I have ever experienced.<br />

I had never been on the water for that many consecutive<br />

days and had certainly never planned a trip where you had<br />

to take down camp every morning and set it all up again<br />

later in the day. However, you get into a routine and it is very<br />

much a part of your experience of being on the river. Finding<br />

just the right spot to quickly set up your tent for the night<br />

(remember we were paddling in October, so the days were<br />

shorter) became something to look forward to – a type of<br />

nesting, really. Ah, I love it.<br />

Evenings were spent cooking, visiting with fellow<br />

paddlers, debriefing the day and planning the next. Did I say<br />

there was some work involved? I love the river life. Crawling<br />

into the tent, feeling certain that your sleeping mat was four<br />

inches thick and not 1.5 inches because you could feel the<br />

relaxation in every muscle in your body as you lay down.<br />

The river is most certainly a good analogy for married<br />

life. It winds and meanders and with its mighty flow makes<br />

many of the rough spots smooth – over time. Mark is my<br />

best friend and our most significant meeting place is the<br />

out of doors and particularly paddling. Some might think<br />

a paddling honeymoon could be the beginning of the end<br />

(we heard from one guide a story of a couple that decided to<br />

get divorced on a trip at about the half-way point). Mark and<br />

I fared much better. We work stuff out better on the river<br />

than we do at home. I think this is mostly because things<br />

are simplified on the water. You need to make so many<br />

miles, eat, sleep and with those objectives we each know<br />

what we have to do to get those things done successfully.<br />

We established our roles on paddling trips many years ago.<br />

At home we call these departments. Mine, for example, is<br />

cooking and his is dishes.<br />

u<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 9


Destinations<br />

We paddled the river at<br />

8,000 cubic feet per second<br />

(CFS – think 8,000 basketballs<br />

passing by you each second –<br />

isn’t that a visual!) and during<br />

the summer months the river<br />

is typically at about 20-22,000<br />

CFS. The features of the river<br />

at 8,000 CFS are more exposed<br />

because of the lower flow.<br />

This allowed us to paddle the<br />

inflatable <strong>kayak</strong>s with greater<br />

success, which essentially<br />

means less swimming. In addition to the<br />

two inflatable <strong>kayak</strong>s, we had five oar boats<br />

and one paddle boat. I had never paddled<br />

in water as big as this and it was thrilling –<br />

and at one point frightening – after being<br />

eaten by a huge hole at Horn Creek rapid.<br />

How happy was I to eventually pop-up<br />

downstream only to see the big eyes of my<br />

betrothed saying, “I’m glad that’s over.”<br />

The highlight of the trip in terms of the<br />

river for me was successfully running Lava<br />

Falls, the largest rapid on the river, with<br />

multiple features and must-do moves. Mark<br />

and I, having demonstrated some degree<br />

of competence while sitting<br />

comfortably in our drysuits,<br />

were honored on the one<br />

hand, but also quite petrified<br />

that we were selected to be in<br />

the front of the paddleboat<br />

to run Lava. We had an<br />

opportunity to scout before<br />

we ran and looking down<br />

from our vantage point I was<br />

pretty sure I was going to<br />

either puke or cry. That thing<br />

was big (even at 8,000 CFS)!<br />

I was not the only one with anxiety. The<br />

entire day before and that morning we were<br />

all praying that we wouldn’t have an out-ofboat<br />

experience. And it was important for<br />

the guides too, as this was their last trip of<br />

the season and they too seemed eager to<br />

end on a high note.<br />

As it turned out no one swam Lava Falls<br />

– the river had mercy on us this particular<br />

day. The next stop was Tequila Beach for<br />

a night of celebrating with some liquid<br />

libation which our guides’ called a “bucket<br />

of stupid” (need I say more).<br />

I would be remiss if I did not tell you<br />

story and images by John Kimantas<br />

that the canyon is more than just the river.<br />

The geology is mind-boggling and touching<br />

rocks that are over a billion years old,<br />

well, that’s pretty impressive. The hiking is<br />

incredible in the side canyons and although<br />

I am not much of a hiker I was so glad<br />

that I did them because those tucked-away<br />

places that you can’t see from the river were<br />

gorgeous.<br />

Many people have gone before us on this<br />

amazing river. Some are famous, like John<br />

Wesley Powell, and some infamous, like<br />

Bert Loepper, and their stories and others<br />

were such an important part of our own<br />

journey down the river. If you get a chance<br />

to visit this magical place, you won’t regret<br />

the time it took or the money it cost – we<br />

sure don’t and more specifically a paddling<br />

honeymoon is one that you will never forget<br />

because who does that?<br />

In the words of a paddlesports colleague,<br />

what a fitting trip as Mark and I start on our<br />

grand journey together.<br />

<<br />

Nikki enjoys sharing paddling adventures<br />

with her husband, Mark, and is a sales rep in<br />

the canoeing & <strong>kayak</strong>ing industry.<br />

Get it at<br />

ecomarine<br />

Avocet LV<br />

Performance <strong>kayak</strong>s<br />

from the UK<br />

604-689-7575<br />

sales@ecomarine.com<br />

10 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011<br />

Spring 2011.indd 1<br />

2/3/2011 3:06:21 PM


The Grand Canyon<br />

A gentle moment along the Grand<br />

Canyon. Click online for a slideshow.<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 11


The BC Marine Trail<br />

by John Kimantas<br />

It was a day of perfect paddling conditions<br />

when passing through the Bunsby Islands<br />

on a trip following the new West Coast<br />

Vancouver Island North Marine Trail.<br />

Official status to the route along the wildest coast<br />

of Vancouver Island will ensure passage through<br />

some of the world’s most spectacular scenery and<br />

the best <strong>kayak</strong>ing imaginable. It is a route truly<br />

On my first run down the outside of Vancouver Island by<br />

<strong>kayak</strong>, Cape Scott served up a thrashing. The cape is the<br />

northwestern-most point of land on Vancouver Island, and it<br />

was deceivingly calm as I passed the cape’s resident sea lion<br />

rookery at dawn. Rubbery whiskered noses snorted at me as<br />

they surfaced beside the <strong>kayak</strong>. I lingered absently, unaware<br />

of how my leisurely approach was working against me. No<br />

sooner was I past the lighthouse than the wind picked up<br />

from the south. In moments I was fighting vicious wind<br />

waves of several feet, coupled with an adverse and growing<br />

current. My progress slowed to a crawl, and to make matters<br />

worse, the current kept trying to push me towards the<br />

cape’s sharp reefs. My GPS kept dropping to a reading of<br />

0.0 kmh – too slow to be measured. By doubling my effort<br />

the end of the peninsula slowly crept into view. There the<br />

current seemed to release me, and I managed to drop into<br />

the relative safety of Lowrie Bay. I did have ample time to<br />

recover, though – the next two days were spent waiting out<br />

a storm.<br />

My second crossing was more peaceful but eery. The<br />

wind behaved, leaving just a gentle swell. The reefs loomed<br />

in and out of view, causing us to constantly second-guess<br />

where they were hidden, while a heavy mist made the<br />

background surreal.<br />

Both instances left indelible memories, as did most of the<br />

rest of the outer coast of Vancouver Island. The run from<br />

Port Hardy to Tofino, a distance of about 800 kilometres by<br />

<strong>kayak</strong>, covers the best of the coast of British Columbia in a<br />

run remarkable in so many ways. The rugged nature, the<br />

isolation, the diversity of scenery and the varied and rich<br />

ecology is remarkable. In addition, each region has its own<br />

particular attractions and charm. Given that it is so wild and<br />

uninhabited the need to formalize a route like this might<br />

seem unnecessary – after all, most is Crown land (that is,<br />

public) or already protected as parkland. But consider that it<br />

might not always be this way.<br />

A wakeup call for the <strong>kayak</strong>ing community in British<br />

Columbia was the advent of the Maa-Nulth Treaty in 2006.<br />

More than a century overdue, the treaty served to right<br />

wrongs left over from British colonization that eroded<br />

12 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


Port Hardy<br />

The WCVIN section<br />

This issue: We take you on a journey<br />

through the rugged new West Coast<br />

Vancouver Island North Marine Trails from<br />

Port Hardy to Tofino.<br />

Next issue: Hopping serene islands<br />

along the new Gulf Islands Marine<br />

Trail Network.<br />

Tofino<br />

aboriginal rights without legal resolution. The Maa-Nulth<br />

Treaty was British Columbia’s first coastal treaty, and so<br />

provided a glimpse for the future of how coastal native<br />

communities will be transformed.<br />

Not surprising, the treaty grants additional land, but in<br />

contrast to previous treaty lands the Maa-nulth lands are<br />

fee simple: that is, essentially private property that can be<br />

bought and sold. And not surprisingly, many of the parcels<br />

picked out in the treaty are among the most heavily used<br />

coastal recreation areas, such as Spring Island in the Mission<br />

Group off Kyuquot Sound, and Toquart Bay, the main launch<br />

point for <strong>kayak</strong>ers heading to the popular Broken Group<br />

Islands.<br />

In response to this and other changes along the coast,<br />

paddling clubs across British Columbia united in 2007 to<br />

begin the process of creating a marine trail composed of<br />

launch sites, campsites and safe havens to allow travel by<br />

paddle along the entire BC coast for generations to come. The<br />

result, when complete, will be the largest marine trail in the<br />

world. What followed was a lengthy process by volunteers<br />

of nine paddling clubs in identifying sites, visiting them,<br />

working with the government and consulting with First<br />

Nations interests to push forward the goal.<br />

With enough of the preliminary work out of the way, the<br />

government has agreed to lift the veil of quiet behind-thescenes<br />

work and announce support for the full trail while<br />

officially opening the first two portions: the West Coast<br />

Vancouver Island North section from Port Hardy to Tofino<br />

and the Gulf Islands Trail Network between Victoria and<br />

Nanaimo on Vancouver Island. The official announcement<br />

will be made at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in May, along<br />

with a ceremonial group paddle through a portion of the Gulf<br />

Islands route to celebrate the occasion. It may well be the<br />

most historic paddle in the history of British Columbia.<br />

The changes for <strong>kayak</strong>ers will initially be largely invisible,<br />

as site development isn’t part of the equation. At least, not<br />

yet. What does change, though, is the designation of the land<br />

itself. Once a marine trail site, the designation trumps other<br />

possible proposed uses such as fish farms and resorts.<br />

In other words, the trail is here to stay.<br />

u<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 13


The BC Marine Trail<br />

For the West Coast<br />

Vancouver Island North<br />

section, currently 147<br />

marine trail sites are on<br />

the table (including access<br />

points, overnight locations<br />

and picnic sites where<br />

<strong>kayak</strong>ers can visit but not<br />

stay.) How many will end<br />

up officially on the trail is<br />

still an unknown, as some<br />

considerations have yet to<br />

be resolved. For instance,<br />

many key <strong>kayak</strong>ing campsites<br />

in areas such as the Bunsby<br />

Islands won’t be part of<br />

the initial inventory, if at<br />

all, because they are located<br />

in the Checleset Bay Ecological Reserve,<br />

which restricts foreshore access by the<br />

public. The ban on access has always been<br />

in place; it has just never been enforced.<br />

Cultural sensitivity for First Nations is<br />

another issue. Government representatives<br />

working with the planning group, the<br />

BC Marine Trails Network Association<br />

(BCMTNA), have been approaching First<br />

Nations representatives to work together<br />

in designating appropriate sites for the<br />

trail, but issues such as historic use (for<br />

instance, camping on a former village site)<br />

mean some sites are still in limbo or may be<br />

dropped.<br />

The first two sections to be unveiled<br />

are just the first of the many legs that will<br />

eventually join to allow travel by paddle<br />

John Kimantas photo<br />

Kayaks on the beach at Apple Islets before<br />

crossing Brooks Peninsula.<br />

down the entire BC coast from Washington<br />

State to Alaska. While some areas, such as<br />

the Discovery Islands north of Campbell<br />

River (the cluster that includes Quadra and<br />

Cortes islands), are fairly complete, other<br />

regions such as the North and Central BC<br />

coast are more complex. The huge area to<br />

be covered, the distance from home bases<br />

(in terms of BCMTNA volunteers being<br />

able to “groundproof ” potential sites),<br />

cultural issues and even the province’s<br />

recent creation of vast parcels of newly<br />

protected areas are all factors that will slow<br />

the trail’s completion.<br />

That’s the long-term problem. In the<br />

short-term, even trail<br />

portions will help create<br />

a network of known and<br />

reliable camping locations,<br />

removing the question of<br />

where to stay at the end<br />

of the day – a traditional<br />

hurdle for treks along<br />

the BC coast in both<br />

populated and isolated<br />

sections.<br />

While the trail<br />

announcement is a huge<br />

step forward, the process<br />

won’t end even once all<br />

the trail components<br />

are announced. The<br />

BCMTNA expects to<br />

continue to play a key role in searching<br />

for and lobbying for new sites in the years<br />

ahead, as well as working on a public<br />

education and trail advocacy component.<br />

There may also be a need for campsite<br />

development as wilderness areas become<br />

better used and begin to require services.<br />

What follows is an introductory look at<br />

the West Coast Vancouver Island North<br />

trail section. Because this is a preview in<br />

advance of formal designation, some sites<br />

mentioned may not make the official end<br />

list. In addition, a multitude of other sites<br />

remain on the BCMTNA “dream list,” not<br />

yet publicly released but with hopes for<br />

future inclusion. Others will follow on the<br />

list shortly as paddling in British Columbia<br />

enters an exciting new era.<br />

14 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


The WCVIN section<br />

<strong>Paddling</strong> is invigorating.<br />

It feeds my spirit. It renews my mind, body<br />

and soul. It’s a chance to get away from<br />

deadlines, construction noise and cell phones.<br />

<strong>Paddling</strong> is bliss.<br />

- Ashley<br />

Ashley - <strong>kayak</strong>er, snowboarder and photographer, exploring<br />

rock formations off the Oregon Coast. ©Mike Hood/NRS<br />

What does paddling mean to you?<br />

Share your thoughts at nrsweb.com/share<br />

800-635-5202<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 15


The BC Marine Trail<br />

Cape Sutil, the northernmost point on<br />

Vancouver Island, offers an exceptional<br />

<strong>kayak</strong>ing beach. The area can also be<br />

hiked now via the new North Coast Trail.<br />

16 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


The North Island<br />

Welcome to the end of the world. Officially it’s only the<br />

northern end of Vancouver Island, but when you paddle west<br />

past Cape Sutil, the northernmost point on Vancouver Island, you<br />

pass a magical point where civilization has tried to encroach, but<br />

nature continually reclaims. Many ruins are testimony to nature’s<br />

dominance here, which you can feel like the morning mist.<br />

The majority of the coast in this region is within Cape Scott<br />

Provincial Park. While the West Coast Vancouver Island North<br />

Marine Trail will formalize marine access, foot access went through<br />

a similar unveiling in 2008 when the long-awaited North Coast<br />

Trail was officially opened. The extension of the Cape Scott Trail<br />

allows hiking over the entire north end of Vancouver Island from<br />

Shushartie Bay to the old Cape Scott Trail trailhead at San Josef<br />

Bay. This opened foot access to vast stretches such as Shuttleworth<br />

Bight and Cape Sutil previously limited to access by <strong>kayak</strong>s and<br />

small boats. But don’t worry about overcrowding. There’s more<br />

than enough beach for everyone, and this area has some great<br />

stretches of sand – an unexpected amount, actually, given the fact<br />

this area has a reputation for a rocky, storm-ridden coast.<br />

Crossing Cape Scott by paddle is an exercise in bravery, planning<br />

and discretion, with (knock on wood) some luck thrown in for good<br />

measure. If all goes well you gain the privilege of being among the<br />

few who have successfully transited one of the most notoriously<br />

tricky points on the British Columbia coast. South of Cape Scott<br />

can be equally problematic. Troubling southerly winds, storms and<br />

numerous offshore rocks can make this relatively short stretch of<br />

water daunting. But as in all things coastal, timed right you are likely<br />

to find yourself immersed in a world populated not by stormy seas<br />

but by sea lions, sea otters, grey whales and humpbacks.<br />

A new circuit growing more popular is a circle route from Port<br />

Hardy and around North Vancouver Island and back through<br />

Quatsino Sound. By making arrangements with tour operators in<br />

Port Hardy you can be picked up in Coal Harbour and returned to<br />

your vehicle – a convenient ending to a great adventure. u<br />

Laura Cr.<br />

9 (hike-in only)<br />

Cape Scott<br />

9 9 Nissen Bight<br />

Nels Bight<br />

9<br />

Guise<br />

3 Bay<br />

Lowrie<br />

North Coast<br />

9 Bay<br />

Trail trailhead<br />

F (San Josef)<br />

9<br />

y 9<br />

San Josef Bay<br />

9 Cape Palmerston<br />

9 Raft Cove<br />

Hope I.<br />

2 Nahwitti Bar<br />

Jepther Pt.<br />

9 Cape Sutil 9<br />

Skinner Cr. (hike-in only)<br />

Nahwitti River 9 9<br />

9<br />

9<br />

F<br />

Shuttleworth Bight<br />

North Coast<br />

Trail trailhead<br />

(Shushartie Bay)<br />

´ y Holberg<br />

Map legend<br />

Nigei I.<br />

9 Designated marine trail campsite<br />

9 Non-marine trail campsite<br />

y Launch site<br />

F Trailhead ´ Community/services<br />

Park, reserve or conservation area<br />

Route of 2009 Coast&Kayak trip<br />

3 2009 Coast&Kayak trip campsites<br />

Please note: these maps show most key<br />

established campsites along the WCVIN<br />

route even if not designated as part of the<br />

marine trail. These sites may be candidate<br />

sites in the process of being formalized.<br />

Some established sites that are under<br />

discussions with interested parties (such as<br />

BC Parks or First Nations) have been omitted<br />

from the maps.<br />

Deserters/Walker Group<br />

9 Loquillilla Cove<br />

Harlequin Bay<br />

Balaclava Island booms 9<br />

9 God’s Pocket<br />

9 1 9 Bell Island<br />

Nolan Pt.<br />

(Balaclava I.)<br />

Goletas Channel<br />

Songhees Cr. 9<br />

Goodnuff Beach 9<br />

Hardy<br />

´ Bay<br />

Port Hardy y<br />

To find tour operators, water taxis<br />

and service providers for areas<br />

covered by this trail, see page<br />

34-35 and watch for the<br />

logo.<br />

WCVIN<br />

y Coal Harbour<br />

Rupert Arm<br />

Beaver<br />

Harbour<br />

y<br />

9Topknot Pt.<br />

´ 9Winter Harbour<br />

y<br />

4<br />

9 Grant Bay<br />

9 Hunt Its.<br />

Ahwhichaolta<br />

Inlet<br />

y<br />

Quatsino Narrows<br />

Quatsino •<br />

Quatsino<br />

Provincial Ildstad Is. 9 9 Drake I<br />

Park<br />

Quatsino Sound<br />

Varney Bay<br />

To Port Hardy<br />

Marble River 9<br />

(drive-in only)<br />

Mahatta River<br />

Quatsino Entrance<br />

(drive-in only) 9 Route to<br />

Gooding Cove<br />

Side Bay<br />

9<br />

y<br />

9<br />

9 Rowley Reefs (two Port Alice<br />

SPRING<br />

sites) and Blue<br />

2011<br />

Cod Islet<br />

COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 17<br />

Map continues south on page 21<br />

y<br />

5<br />

´


The BC Marine Trail<br />

u Trail guide preview: the North Island<br />

The North Island isn’t just one adventure<br />

opportunity. It’s a dozen. Take your pick<br />

from idyllic island clusters near launches<br />

and pavement to remote and rarely visited<br />

beaches. Just be sure to match your skill<br />

level to your intentions.<br />

Access Points: If you follow the Island<br />

Highway north of Victoria you’ll run out<br />

of blacktop at Port Hardy, about 500 km<br />

north (308 miles). This is the logical starting<br />

point for most North Island adventures,<br />

though if you turn west just before Port<br />

Hardy’s downtown you’ll follow a rough<br />

logging road for 60 km that ends at San<br />

Josef Bay and the Cape Scott Trail trailhead.<br />

A Western Forest Product campsite offers<br />

a boat ramp into the San Josef River,<br />

best navigated at high tide. Other options<br />

exist within Quatsino Sound at places like<br />

Coal Harbour and Port Alice, though they<br />

The north Island by foot<br />

For decades Vancouver Island’s most<br />

famous hike has been the West Coast<br />

Trail, a rugged multi-day route between<br />

Bamfield and Port Renfrew near the south<br />

end of the island. But it has become a<br />

victim of its own success, popular to the<br />

point reservations are now necessary.<br />

A new rival for any hiker’s “mustdo”<br />

list is the North Coast Trail, which<br />

opened in 2008. It adds 35 kilometers to<br />

the Cape Scott Trail for a total hike of<br />

48 kilometers – less than the West Coat<br />

Trail’s 78 km, but no less imposing for all<br />

the challenges hikers will endure.<br />

It is easy to consider the North<br />

Coast Trail the equivalent of the West<br />

Coast Trail 20 years ago before it was<br />

discovered: undeveloped, rough and<br />

tumble and the wild challenge one<br />

would hope to experience in so remote a<br />

location. Don’t expect the myriad of trail<br />

aids that many believe have spoiled the<br />

West Coast Trail.<br />

Travel is difficult from the outset. The<br />

trailhead at Shushartie Bay requires boat<br />

access, usually a water taxi from Port<br />

Hardy. From there it’s a difficult hike<br />

overland to Skinner Creek, and from there<br />

are less convenient to the best <strong>kayak</strong>ing<br />

locations of the outer coast. Winter<br />

Harbour offers fairly quick access to great<br />

paddling at the expense of a rough logging<br />

road. Bring a spare, or better yet, two.<br />

Short trip options: Good day paddle<br />

and weekend trips out of Port Hardy<br />

include all the nearby islands, which are<br />

numerious. The most accessible are in<br />

Beaver Harbour just east of Hardy Bay.<br />

God’s Pocket Provincial Park offers<br />

weekend adventures or longer trips spent<br />

exploring nearby islands, with the caveat<br />

that winds, tides and traffic are high here,<br />

particularly in Goletas Channel, which must<br />

be crossed. Other destinations in Quatsino<br />

Sound offer sheltered paddling, such as<br />

idyllic Varney Bay and the mouth of Marble<br />

River. Winter Harbour is an ideal gateway<br />

for terrific scenery in Quatsino Entrance.<br />

the trail gets even more difficult, with the<br />

toughest area surrounding Cape Sutil.<br />

Once near Shuttleworth Bight the trail<br />

levels and becomes mostly an idyllic beach<br />

hike westward. Trials along the way will<br />

include self-propelled cable cars (bring<br />

gloves), routes blocked at certain tide levels<br />

(bring patience) and the almost inevitable<br />

black bear encounter (bring spray). Add<br />

one last inevitable feature – rain – and<br />

your North Coast Trail adventure will be<br />

complete (bring a rain jacket).<br />

Should you find it daunting you can always<br />

stay away from open water and explore<br />

Ahwhichaolta Inlet instead.<br />

Moderate trip options: Several weeks<br />

can be spent exploring the God’s Pocket<br />

area, with side trips to the Deserters/Walker<br />

Groups and the two larger islands off Port<br />

Hardy: Nigei and Hope islands. Going as<br />

far as Jepther Point or, with the necessary<br />

expertise, Cape Sutil, is recommended. Or<br />

by launching from San Josef you can reach<br />

Guise Bay and other nearby attractions,<br />

including Cape Scott (should conditions<br />

allow; if not, San Josef Bay has lots to offer,<br />

with beautiful beaches, sea caves, sea stacks<br />

and even a trail to the top of Mount St.<br />

Patrick for panoramic views of the area).<br />

From Winter Harbour trips to Kwakiutl<br />

Point are highly rewarding (see the next leg<br />

for details of that area).<br />

Heading west toward Christensen Point<br />

on the new North Coast Trail, another<br />

spectacular way to experience the<br />

grandeur of northern Vancouver Island.<br />

Hikers should allow six days to<br />

complete the trail, though it can be<br />

done more quickly. An extra day spent<br />

reaching the lighthouse at Cape Scott<br />

is worthwhile. For more information,<br />

a detailed article can be viewed in<br />

the Spring 2008 issue of Wild Coast<br />

<strong>Magazine</strong> (find a copy at Coast&Kayak’s<br />

online magazine carousel). You can also<br />

purchase a detailed North Coast Trail<br />

route map, available at outdoor stores or<br />

online at www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com.<br />

18 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


The North Island<br />

Nearing Cape Scott in the fog. A video<br />

of this eery crossing can be viewed in<br />

the multimedia online version<br />

at www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com.<br />

Quatsino Entrance is the biggest<br />

benefactor of new sites in this region,<br />

with established places like Raft Cove<br />

and Hunt Islets getting the tentative nod,<br />

while new sites have been inventoried<br />

near Rowley Reefs and the north entrance<br />

(with a brilliant new find at a place dubbed<br />

Quatsino Caves Beach, where the sea caves<br />

make great exploring).<br />

Only about half the sites in this region<br />

are listed. The remainder have yet to be<br />

given the official okay.<br />

Advanced trips: The waters in this<br />

area tend to be among the most advanced<br />

anywhere, with difficulties such as Nahwitti<br />

Bar and Cape Scott awaiting any run of<br />

this region. Either despite these features<br />

or because of them, a circle route growing<br />

in popularity is from Port Hardy around<br />

Cape Scott into Quatsino Sound to exit<br />

at Coal Harbour. The advantage is a very<br />

short return trip back to your vehicle at<br />

Port Hardy. Plan two weeks allowing for<br />

foul weather days at key crossings; any<br />

leftover time can be spent exploring the<br />

myriad attractions of Quatsino Entrance<br />

before the run back to Coal Harbour. Due<br />

to prevailing weather an anti-clockwise run<br />

is best. If transportation logistics allow it,<br />

variations can include ending at San Josef,<br />

Winter Harbour or continuing down the<br />

coast for a partial or complete run of the<br />

whole trail. (A solution in these situations is<br />

two vehicles for the group, with one parked<br />

at each trailhead. Otherwise options such as<br />

the shuttle bus to the Cape Scott trailhead<br />

may suit. Local operators may also have<br />

solutions – contact the tour operators and<br />

water taxi services listed starting page 34.)<br />

New BC Marine Trail sites: Veterans<br />

of this area may be disappointed to see<br />

few if any unknown sites added to the<br />

inventory, and quite a few missing. But<br />

there is progress. Sites on Vancouver<br />

Island at Songhees Creek and a protected<br />

cove dubbed Goodnuff Beach are now<br />

protected, as well as Nolan Point and the<br />

booms across Goletas Channel on Balaklava<br />

Island. Not much can change along the<br />

north shore, as it is already within Cape<br />

Scott Provincial Park, but all established<br />

sites at places like Nissen Bight, Nels Bight<br />

and Cape Sutil can now be considered<br />

marine trail sites as well.<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 19


The BC Marine Trail<br />

Stephan Meinke photo<br />

The tufted puffins won me over, but<br />

it was the humpback that made the<br />

greatest impression.<br />

During my first pass through this<br />

area back in 2003 I left Klaskish Inlet<br />

well before dawn to make good time<br />

around Brooks Peninsula while I had a<br />

favorable weather forecast in advance<br />

of a storm. It was dead calm as the sun<br />

rose, and the only sound for hours was<br />

the splish of my paddle and thousands<br />

of tiny jumping fish that kept me<br />

company. The fish may have been a<br />

warning of what was to come, because<br />

in what seemed a monstrous parody a<br />

humpback whale breached the water<br />

in front of me, close enough so I could<br />

see the individual ventral grooves, and<br />

crashed down in an explosive landing.<br />

This was the start of a parade of<br />

wildlife that day. The stars were the<br />

hundreds of colorful tufted puffins<br />

flying past in businesslike fashion,<br />

then crash-landing in an ungainly ball<br />

of sprayed water. Eight years later, I<br />

still rank this as my single best day<br />

of <strong>kayak</strong>ing. At one point two grey<br />

whales surfaced in front of me, side<br />

by side, so close to my <strong>kayak</strong> I couldn’t<br />

have fit my fingers between the closest<br />

and my <strong>kayak</strong>. There they were, two<br />

whales stacked together in front of my<br />

<strong>kayak</strong>. If only my film camera hadn’t<br />

run out!<br />

Brooks Peninsula may seem a<br />

distant and imposing stretch of land,<br />

BCMTNA president Stephanie Meinke<br />

pauses to take in the scenery during an<br />

early morning crossing to Heater Point.<br />

20 COAST&KAYAKMAGAZINE SPRING 2011


5<br />

Kwakiutl Pt. 9<br />

9<br />

Side Bay y<br />

9<br />

Lawn Pt. (three sites)<br />

Map continues north on page 17<br />

Heater Pt. 9<br />

9 y Klaskino Inlet<br />

Klaskino Anchorage<br />

Brooks/Kyuquot<br />

Side Bay<br />

Cape Cook<br />

Solander Island<br />

9 9<br />

Big Bunsby Park Beach<br />

9 9<br />

Klaskish Inlet<br />

East Creek<br />

Muqin/ Brooks<br />

Peninsula<br />

Provincial Park<br />

9 Marks Creek Estuary<br />

9 Crab Apple Islets<br />

6<br />

9 Nasparti Pocket Beach<br />

Brooks Peninsula<br />

9 Columbia Cove<br />

Jackobson Pt. 7<br />

Big Bunsby Island<br />

9 Nordstrum Cr.<br />

9<br />

9 Black Sand Beach<br />

Clark Pt.<br />

Bunsby Islands<br />

Checleset Bay<br />

Ecological Reserve<br />

British Cr.<br />

Trail Cr. 9<br />

9<br />

Kyuquot Sound<br />

Tahsish-Kwoi<br />

Provincial Park<br />

y<br />

Artlish<br />

River<br />

y<br />

Fair<br />

Harbour<br />

9South Spring I.<br />

8-9<br />

Mission Group Islands<br />

Union I.<br />

9<br />

Amai<br />

Inlet<br />

9 Rugged Point Provincial Park<br />

Map continues south on page 25<br />

and indeed it does have a well-earned reputation as a stormy<br />

and dangerous location (the last <strong>kayak</strong>ing fatality was in<br />

2008, while five fishermen were lost in Side Bay in 2010). But<br />

access to both the north and south sides of the peninsula<br />

mean the best features can be enjoyed without the danger of<br />

a full-fledged crossing. Popular <strong>kayak</strong>ing destinations are the<br />

Mission Group Islands near the entrance to Kyuquot Sound<br />

to the south, or the Bunsby Islands which lie closer to Brooks<br />

Peninsula. Both are notably excluded from the current list of<br />

marine trail sites – the Bunsby Islands due to the ecological<br />

status of the archipelago’s foreshore, which precludes public<br />

access (an oddity that has been ignored by both visitors and<br />

reserve officials for decades).<br />

Another world awaits exploration to the north of the<br />

peninsula. Arriving here from Quatsino Sound means passing<br />

the rugged and exposed shores of Lawn Point Provincial<br />

Park, which offers several inviting camping options as well as<br />

fantastic reef-strewn shores. Inside Side Bay are more island<br />

clusters, beaches and inlets to be explored. A trip to Solander<br />

Island, a major seabird sanctuary, is recommended if<br />

conditions allow. Don’t worry, you won’t bother the seabirds.<br />

The island is surrounded by inaccessible cliffs.<br />

Several spectacular beaches are located near Jackobson<br />

Point. Long established as campsites, they run the same<br />

difficulty as the Bunsbys in that the foreshore is within the<br />

Checleset Bay Ecological Reserve. So they’re off the marine<br />

trail list and within that grey area that is a bit of a parody of<br />

the no-trace camping slogan: sneak in, sneak out.<br />

That and First Nations considerations have kept most of<br />

the stretch between south Brooks Peninsula and Kyuquot<br />

Sound unmarked for designated marine trail sites. While<br />

recreational use is likely to continue to be enjoyed, official<br />

designation is still a question mark and a major quandary for<br />

marine trail proponents.<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 21


The BC Marine Trail<br />

u Trail guide preview: Brooks/Kyuquot<br />

While seemingly too wild and<br />

inaccessible for a casual visit, many <strong>kayak</strong>ers<br />

enjoy serene visits by taking a water taxi.<br />

This, for instance, cuts down the length of<br />

the trip from the launch site at Fair Harbour<br />

or Artlish River, which would otherwise<br />

require one day out and one day back by<br />

paddle. Add another day of paddling each<br />

way if your goal is the Bunsby Islands.<br />

Water taxis are harder to come by if your<br />

goal is the north end of Brooks Peninsula.<br />

Luckily water access is a bit simpler as<br />

paddling to some key locations will take a<br />

few hours, not days.<br />

Access Points: For south Brooks<br />

Peninsula, two key access points exist<br />

in Kyuquot Sound. Both are within the<br />

auspices of the Kyuquot/Checleset as a<br />

result of the Maa-nulth Treaty. Public access<br />

remains unchanged, however.<br />

For visitors to the north side of Brooks<br />

Peninsula, two points provide handy access<br />

to the water, though transit requires a<br />

lengthy drive over tough and active logging<br />

roads. Expect white knuckles. Side Bay<br />

provides the most direct access, with the<br />

advantage of being on an extremely scenic<br />

beach, while Klaskino Inlet has a small and<br />

very rough boat launch with limited parking.<br />

It is also possible to reach the Side Bay<br />

area from the Quatsino Sound launches<br />

such as Winter Harbour.<br />

Short or moderate trip options:<br />

Almost any trip here should involve several<br />

days, but it is worth the investment. While<br />

water taxis will cut the travel time to your<br />

base camp, a week is still recommended and<br />

you won’t regret the time. For self-directed<br />

trips, a launch from Fair Harbour makes<br />

Rugged Point a great and easy destination,<br />

with the Mission Group a slightly more<br />

advanced option.<br />

To the north, both Side Bay and<br />

Klaskino Inlet make Heater Point a<br />

wonderful destination, or any of the other<br />

campsite options from Lawn Point to Apple<br />

Islets. Weather permitting a day trip to<br />

Solander Island is exceptional.<br />

Advanced trip options: The prize,<br />

of course, is a transit of Brooks Peninsula,<br />

usually run from north to south to take<br />

advantage of good weather (that being the<br />

prevailing northwesterly).<br />

New BC Marine Trail sites: This<br />

region is problematic as the foreshore<br />

along the south peninsula including the<br />

Bunsby Islands is in Checleset Ecological<br />

Reserve. Because of this the foreshore<br />

is barred from public access (the islands<br />

themselves are not). The ecological reserve<br />

was created in 1981 to protect sea otters<br />

that were reintroduced here. They are now<br />

flourishing, but the current strategy remains<br />

to direct recreational use away from the<br />

islands towards Big Bunsby Provincial<br />

Park, which was created to serve the<br />

recreational needs. Unfortunately, camping<br />

is at a premium on the island, and the two<br />

inventoried sites surveyed by the BC Marine<br />

Trails Network Association are less than<br />

ideal. Also off the list are many Mission<br />

Group sites (with the notable exception of<br />

South Spring Island, which remains outside<br />

the Maa-nulth Treaty lands). In other words,<br />

this area still has much to be done.<br />

22 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


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SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 23


Rugged Pt. 9<br />

The BC Marine Trail<br />

Map continues north on page 21<br />

Jurrasic Pt.<br />

Tatchu Pt. 9<br />

Yellow Bluff<br />

There’s a magical sense of history in Nootka<br />

Sound, highlighted by the quaint little church at<br />

Yuquot. Step into the foyer and you’ll see stained<br />

glass windows donated by the Spanish government<br />

to commemorate Spain’s role here that included the<br />

only Spanish military fort in Canada. Step inside the<br />

church and you’ll see some fantastic totems.<br />

You can visit here by paddle, of course, through<br />

relatively protected waters. Advanced <strong>kayak</strong>ers will<br />

relish the outer shores of Nootka Island, the largest<br />

island off the Vancouver Island coast. For those who<br />

wish to see this spectacular coast but prefer land,<br />

there is the Nootka Trail, one of the lesser known<br />

major coastal hikes, which runs the shore from Louie<br />

Bay to Yuquot, with a few tough headlands between<br />

beaches thrown in for good measure.<br />

Similar to most other regions, Nootka Sound<br />

offers numerous access points to a diverse range of<br />

attractions, which vary from the storm-thrashed reefs<br />

of Nuchatlitz Provincial Park to the more protected<br />

waters of the Spanish Pilot Group.<br />

One of the great features of this area is the<br />

greater range of options available, from cottage<br />

accommodation in Nuchatlitz or water taxis from<br />

Zeballos or Tahsis to regular scheduled freight and<br />

boat passenger runs from Gold River to Yuquot and<br />

beyond. Getting here need not be a hardship, though<br />

paddling brings the greatest rewards.<br />

Kayaking past Rosa Island in Nuchatlitz<br />

Provincial Park, with Catala Island,<br />

Tatchu Point and the rugged outer<br />

coast in the distance. Inset: a totem<br />

in the quaint Yuquot church.<br />

u Trail guide preview: Nootka Sound and island<br />

Access points: The main recreational hub for central<br />

Nootka Sound is Cougar Creek, a recreational campground<br />

and boat launch that is seasonally very busy. Fees apply.<br />

Gold River is too distant along Muchalat Inlet for quick trips,<br />

but is the base for the freight and passenger service Uchuck<br />

III for transport into the sound and beyond. Access to the<br />

north is possible from either Tahsis or Zeballos. Both are<br />

popular and convenient gateways to Nuchatlitz or Catala<br />

Island, with water taxis available at both communities. A<br />

popular launch point for self-directed trips is the bridge<br />

between Little Espinosa and Espinosa Inlets.<br />

Short trips: From Cougar Creek a journey up Hisnit or<br />

Tlupana inlets is a great introduction to the mountain<br />

scenery of the area, particularly the cliffs of Perpendicular<br />

Bluff in Tlupana. The area has several resorts that cater<br />

mainly to fishing groups but will likely accommodate<br />

<strong>kayak</strong>ers. This enables base trips in the vicinity of the<br />

Spanish Pilot Group. Inflow and outflow winds can actually<br />

aid day trips – ride the outflows in the morning and the<br />

inflows in the afternoon, if conditions are favorable. Of<br />

course, beware variations and best to plan to travel early<br />

before the day’s winds rise.<br />

Moderate trips: The Spanish Pilot Group and Bligh Island<br />

offer an option away from the open ocean swell, with limited<br />

24 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


´ y Zeballos<br />

y 9<br />

Little Espinosa Inlet<br />

´<br />

Tahsis<br />

y<br />

9 Lord Waterfall<br />

9 Catala Island (two sites) 9 Garden Pt.<br />

Saltery Bay 9<br />

9<br />

Nuchatlitz<br />

10 Provincial Park<br />

Belmont Pt.<br />

Santiago Cr.<br />

9<br />

9<br />

9 Benson Pt.<br />

Nuchatlitz Inlet<br />

Oldham Beach<br />

9 9<br />

Louie Bay<br />

NOOTKA<br />

F F ISLAND<br />

9 Third Beach<br />

Strange I.<br />

Strange I. NOOTKA SOUND<br />

9<br />

Bligh Island<br />

9 Calvin Falls<br />

Marvinas Bay 9<br />

9 Provincial Park<br />

11<br />

9<br />

Vernaci Island 9 9 Charlie’s Beach<br />

Beano Creek (hike-in only)<br />

9<br />

Espinosa Inlet<br />

Tahsis Inlet<br />

Tlupana Inlet<br />

y<br />

9 Cougar Cr.<br />

Muchalat Inlet<br />

Nootka<br />

Gold River<br />

y<br />

9<br />

9<br />

9<br />

Callicum Cr. Yuquot<br />

F<br />

Maquinna Pt. East 9<br />

12<br />

9 Burdwood Bay<br />

9<br />

Escalante Pt. (two sites)<br />

Escalante Island<br />

Barcester Bay<br />

9<br />

13<br />

Hesquiat Peninsula<br />

Map continues south<br />

on page 31<br />

camping opportunities. A day trip to Yuquot is highly<br />

recommended. To the north, Nuchatlitz Provincial Park<br />

and Catala Provincial Park are both <strong>kayak</strong>ing magnets for<br />

obvious reasons – great camping, scenery and opportunities<br />

to explore reefs, sea caves and the many other features. A<br />

scenic highlight is Nuchatlitz Inlet. See it before it is logged!<br />

It is a treasure.<br />

Advanced trips: The outer coast north of Tatchu Point<br />

offers a rugged getaway, if conditions allow. Tatchu Point<br />

can be treacherous, but the rewards of the beaches near<br />

Jurassic Point are substantial. A circumnavigation of Nootka<br />

Island is an adventure for veteran paddlers, with the outside<br />

of Nootka Island a definite highlight. Pick either sweeping<br />

beaches like those near Calvin Falls or pocket beaches<br />

like those at Callicum Creek for campsites. Note the inside<br />

passage through Tahsis Inlet is prone to wind funneling,<br />

which can slow a trip considerably.<br />

New BC Marine Trail sites: Nootka Sound is likely to<br />

evolve as issues are resolved, such as cultural sensitivity<br />

keeping locations in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park – Nootka’s<br />

most popular <strong>kayak</strong>ing destination – off the official list<br />

while consultations continue. Until then, the omission of the<br />

region constitutes a key missing component of the trail.<br />

Most of the confirmed sites in Nootka already exist by<br />

way of provincial parks (Catala Island and Bligh Island, for<br />

instance). But there are also notable new additions, with<br />

Strange Island, Marvinas Bay, Saltery Bay and Lord Waterfall<br />

newly minted as campsites – great new areas to check out.<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 25<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 25


The BC Marine Trail<br />

Nootka Trail: covering outer Nootka Island by foot<br />

Kayaking the outside of Nootka<br />

Island is a great adventure, but it’s not<br />

for everyone, as the water is wild and the<br />

risks potentially high. But the same great<br />

shoreline can be experienced by foot –<br />

if you take the time to overcome a few<br />

logistical hurdles.<br />

The Nootka Trail is a world-class<br />

wilderness experience by any standard. It<br />

meanders the outer shore southward from<br />

Louie Bay then east to cover the two most<br />

spectacular sides of Vancouver Island’s<br />

largest offshore island. The tradeoff is<br />

logistics. Being on an island, the Nootka<br />

Trail requires transit of some sort to<br />

both arrive and depart. This is usually<br />

handled by a charter flight into Louie<br />

Bay’s lagoon then timing the journey’s<br />

end to leave via the Uchuck III from the<br />

dock at Yuquot (something that must be<br />

timed with care, as the Uchuck only visits<br />

twice a week). A more flexible option is<br />

water taxi, available from Tahsis (Tahtsa<br />

Dive Charters) or Zeballos (Zeballos<br />

Expeditions). Since water taxis can’t pass<br />

the shallow lagoon entrance, the arrival is<br />

a bit more circuitous, requiring a low-tide<br />

jaunt along the shore of Louie Bay then<br />

a climb over rocky shore till Third Beach,<br />

the traditional first stop of a hike. Those<br />

dropped by plane will have a simpler<br />

time crossing from the lagoon, only a<br />

Pausing at a rugged pocket beach near Maquinna Point. Places like these wont’ be seen<br />

close up from a <strong>kayak</strong>, making both journeys remarkably different – and worthwhile.<br />

short distance to Third Beach. From<br />

there the hike is mostly along the beach –<br />

sometimes on sand, but mostly pebbles,<br />

cobble or even rocks. At Maquinna Point<br />

the trail heads overland again, offering<br />

access points to some caves and pocket<br />

beaches. The rocky clambor ends near a<br />

tidal channel for a lagoon that can make<br />

crossings extremely wet at higher tides.<br />

The trail ends with an easy beach walk<br />

to Yuquot and the docks at Friendly<br />

Cove. Note that Yuquot is a Mowachaht<br />

First Nation reserve and a fee is charged<br />

for access (currently at $45 per person),<br />

payable on arrival at an office on the far<br />

end of the heritage church.<br />

A highlight is always Calvin Falls, a<br />

waterfall set in the midst of the longest<br />

sand beach on the island. This is usually<br />

the second campsite of the trip after<br />

Third Beach. Overall the trail takes<br />

four relatively leisurely days. Longer is<br />

recommended to linger at some of the<br />

more scenic locations.<br />

26 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


Nootka<br />

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<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

<br />

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We’re celebrating<br />

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And we’re giving you the birthday presents.<br />

In our online edition, click here<br />

to read Vol. 1, Issue 1<br />

Introducing our grand prize,<br />

courtesy Atlantis Kayaks:<br />

The Atlantis Titan VI<br />

Coast and Kayak <strong>Magazine</strong> is proud to offer our readers<br />

the chance to paddle home this custom Atlantis Titan VI.<br />

Hand-crafted on Vancouver Island, it features a clear gelcoat<br />

hull and a two-tone black and grey fade paint scheme on<br />

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You can read more about this <strong>kayak</strong> on page 39, or click the<br />

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28 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


Prizes available through this edition:<br />

Win in March: Win in April: Win in May:<br />

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Kayaking rec maps<br />

The Wild Coast Recreation Map and Trip<br />

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Islands, the Gulf Islands, Broughton<br />

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Here’s how to win:<br />

No purchase is necessary. Here are the steps.<br />

1. Subscribe to Coast&Kayak <strong>Magazine</strong> online. It’s free. This<br />

will entitle you to notification of upcoming magazines and a<br />

quick link to read us free online.<br />

2. Find the link embedded in the online magazine. It’s not<br />

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Why make it an online contest? Well, we’re adding content<br />

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The small print: All collected email addresses are confidential and will only be used for online subscription notification and/or contest entries. No information will be<br />

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SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 29


The BC Marine Trail<br />

Map continues north on page 25<br />

Boat Basin (3 sites) 9<br />

9 Barcester Bay<br />

Hesquiat Harbour<br />

13<br />

Hesquiat Trail<br />

F<br />

Hesquiat Peninsula<br />

Provincial Park<br />

Clayoquot Sound is the most accessible of the regions of the<br />

West Coast Vancouver Island North marine trail, but don’t hold<br />

that against it. The bustling little surf, resort and tourist trap of<br />

Tofino, blessed by paved highway access (tumultuous as it is), is<br />

the obligatory starting point, but once on water you are quickly<br />

immersed in wilderness. Turn right at the <strong>kayak</strong> launch (yes,<br />

Tofino actually has a designated <strong>kayak</strong> launch), and head into some<br />

brilliantly mountainous passages that run between Vancouver and<br />

Meares islands, or any number of smaller islands that dot the region<br />

for a journey through protected waters. Turn left from Tofino<br />

(that’s west, by the way) and head out towards incredible open<br />

ocean, storm-battered, reef-strewn shoreline and sprawling beaches<br />

that mark Vargas Island and other smaller camping options. Head<br />

straight north and leave everything behind, either taking the easier<br />

waters on the inland of Flores Island to reach the pristine beauty of<br />

Shelter Inlet or take the outer waters of Flores where the humpback<br />

and grey whales frolic year-round.<br />

Head far enough and reach Hot Springs Cove, a renowned<br />

attraction with a heated mineral spring that feeds a rocky channel<br />

set just above the waterline for a perfect soak. Water taxis and<br />

floatplanes feed a steady supply of tourists, though, and make the<br />

shore of Maquinna Provincial Park toward Hesquiat Harbour a<br />

better wilderness option for <strong>kayak</strong>ers.<br />

Several remote trails offer opportunities for land access, from<br />

the short, pleasant and civilized Big Cedar Trail on Meares Island<br />

to the wild mountain climb of the Wild Side Trail on Flores Island.<br />

For the most adventurous, there’s the rarely visited beach walk of<br />

Hesquiat Peninsula. Take your pick of hikes and/or paddles to<br />

suit your ambitions and interests. There’s always something for the<br />

adventurous spirit in Clayoquot Sound.<br />

Access points: Tofino is the only town that borders the<br />

waters of Clayoquot Sound, making it the de facto starting<br />

point for almost any trip into this region. The <strong>kayak</strong> launch<br />

is located next to the main government dock off First Street.<br />

Parking is available nearby, though a fee may apply. One<br />

alternative is within Pacific Rim National Park at Grice Bay,<br />

but parking is restricted overnight at the launch. Water taxis<br />

cater mainly to the tourist trade here, not <strong>kayak</strong>s, though<br />

<strong>kayak</strong>ers may be accommodated by some service providers.<br />

A regular and reasonably priced passenger shuttle runs to<br />

Ahousat on Flores Island, solving access for hikers of the<br />

Wild Side Trail.<br />

Short trips: A traditional beginner’s adventure from<br />

Tofino is Lemmens Inlet set in Meares Island. It avoids the<br />

currents on all but the short crossing of Duffin Passage. A<br />

visit can be combined with hikes of either the Big Cedar<br />

Trail or an ascent of Lone Cone for spectacular views of the<br />

sound.<br />

Moderate trips: Vargas Island is a great destination for<br />

intermediate paddlers. Though channels can have strong<br />

currents near Tofino, an easy route is on the inside via<br />

Maurus Channel to Dick and Jane Beach on the northwest<br />

corner of the island, or any number of secondary campsites<br />

on Vargas or nearby islands. A more demanding route<br />

is south of the island to spectacular Ahous Bay, noting<br />

the water around the La Croix Group can be tricky.<br />

A circumnavigation of Meares Island is a moderately<br />

ambitious agenda through mostly protected and serene<br />

passages with a few currents to watch along the way.<br />

Advanced trips: Kayakers willing to brave a bit of swell<br />

on exposed water can reach Whitesand Cove on Flores<br />

Island, while veterans will enjoy the achievement of reaching<br />

Hesquiat Peninsula. The trip to Cow Bay can be a long<br />

weekend adventure (done as a Coast&Kayak <strong>Magazine</strong><br />

trip in late September 2008, pictured here), but a week is<br />

recommended. If Hesquiat Peninsula is too ambitious, Shelter<br />

Inlet is scenic with waterfalls and reef-strewn side channels to<br />

explore. While Hot Springs Cove is a worthwhile destination,<br />

crowds can be an annoyance during peak hours. Consider<br />

Hesquiat Harbour the better goal.<br />

New BC Marine Trail sites: There are no designated sites<br />

for this region yet as the marine trail process works its way<br />

south. The sites shown here are already established, and will<br />

hopefully compose the backbone of this leg of the trail.<br />

30 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


Sydney Inlet<br />

Provincial Park<br />

Strathcona<br />

Provincial Park<br />

Clayoquot Sound<br />

Maquinna<br />

Provincial Park<br />

Hot 9 Fee campground<br />

Springs<br />

Cove<br />

Shelter Inlet<br />

Sulphur Passage<br />

Provincial Park<br />

9 Obstruction Island<br />

F Bedwell Valley Trail<br />

Millar Channel<br />

9 Mate Islands<br />

Flores Island<br />

Herbert Inlet<br />

F Wild Side Trail<br />

Halfmoon Bay<br />

Ahousat<br />

9 9<br />

Catface<br />

Cow Bay<br />

Range<br />

Whitesand Cove<br />

9 Saranac Island<br />

9 Whaler Islets<br />

9 Robert Pt.<br />

Dick & Jane Beach 9<br />

9<br />

Miltie’s Beach<br />

14 Vargas I.<br />

Blunden Island and Islet<br />

Rassier Beach<br />

Kirshaw Islets 9<br />

9<br />

9<br />

Ahous Bay 9<br />

Meares I.<br />

La Croix Group<br />

Medallion Beach 9<br />

Maurus Channel<br />

TOFINO y<br />

end<br />

Lemmens Inlet<br />

Bedwell Sound<br />

Heelboom Bay9<br />

F Big Tree Trail<br />

Tofino Inlet<br />

Grice Bay y<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 31


The BC Marine Trail<br />

u Trail guide preview: how to run the whole WCVIN<br />

It was, in a word, a slog. I can find no<br />

better way to describe the run friend Carey<br />

Lockwood and I took down the yet-to-exist<br />

WCVIN in late August 2009. We battled<br />

our way down to Tofino against strong<br />

southerlies for most of the 15 days. My<br />

favorite coastal scenery was viewed mostly<br />

from a distance of a kilometer or more<br />

offshore to avoid the danger of high swell<br />

on hidden rocks. (We didn’t know at the<br />

time, but the unseasonal swell was residual<br />

from a storm off Hawaii).<br />

Regardless, it was a great adventure, with<br />

a few good days of serene paddling in the<br />

mix, particularly around the Bunsby Islands.<br />

Paddler Carey Lockwood slogs past Cape<br />

Cook on the outside of Brooks Peninsula.<br />

Websites:<br />

• The official BC Marine Trails Networks Association website<br />

is www.bcmarinetrails.org. Visit for updated route information,<br />

membership details and news bulletins.<br />

• coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com has detailed information by region<br />

for the entire BC coast, along with maps and a directory of<br />

archived magazine articles for each area. Visit<br />

www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com/PaddleBC.html. Find information by map<br />

location on www.planet<strong>kayak</strong>.net.<br />

Guide books:<br />

The Wild Coast, Vol. 1 by John Kimantas (Whitecap, 2005 and<br />

2011): Specific <strong>kayak</strong>ing information location by location. Much<br />

of the information presented here is drawn from the Wild Coast<br />

Many of the photos that accompany the<br />

BC Marine Trail preview are from that<br />

trip. Photography was limited, though,<br />

during the battles, such as around Escalante<br />

Point, the south end of Nootka Island and<br />

Hesquiat Peninsula, when our endurance<br />

was put to the limit. (I tried to videotape the<br />

waves crashing at Estevan Point. It was not<br />

terribly successful, with a Youtube version<br />

getting one response so far – a thumbs<br />

down. So much for that effort.)<br />

While a run is recommended for<br />

confident veteran paddlers, the trail has<br />

enough access points that portions can be<br />

enjoyed in smaller, less imposing trips. But<br />

if you do run it, plan on three weeks to fully<br />

enjoy your time on the water. There will be<br />

places you will want to linger. Trust me!<br />

- John Kimantas<br />

u Where to go for more BC Marine Trails information<br />

knowledge base (John is the Wild Coast author and Coast&Kayak<br />

editor). Updated for 2011 and available soon. One of a series of<br />

Wild Coast guides covering <strong>kayak</strong>ing the entire coast of British<br />

Columbia. Order online at www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com<br />

Sea Kayak Around Vancouver Island by Doug Alderson (Rocky<br />

Mountain Books, 2004). A handy pocket guide for the greater goal<br />

of circumnavigating the island. One of a series of books by Rocky<br />

Mountain Books on <strong>kayak</strong>ing regions of the island.<br />

Tours and services:<br />

Our Tour Directory begins page 34. We’ve marked tour<br />

operators and service providers who operate within the area of<br />

the West Coast Vancouver Island North section of the trail with a<br />

“WCVIN” designation.<br />

32 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


SALES * RENTALS * INSTRUCTION * DAY TOURS<br />

ComoxValleyKayaks.com<br />

Need a new <strong>kayak</strong> ?<br />

Or maybe a PFD ?<br />

We’d love to help you out . . .<br />

Comox Valley Kayaks & Canoes<br />

by the water in Courtenay , Vancouver Island, BC<br />

1-888-545-5595<br />

“ WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP ”<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 33


Tour/Service Directory<br />

Tours and Services: British Columbia<br />

WCVIN<br />

By Adam Bolonsky<br />

Designates West Coast Vancouver Island North Marine Trail service provider<br />

WCVIN<br />

WCVIN<br />

Paddle with sea otters<br />

Kayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island,<br />

Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove. Kayak rentals.<br />

CEDARS INN rooms and restaurant in a historic<br />

Zeballos lodge. Good food, friendly service.<br />

Phone: 1-866-222-2235<br />

Web: www. zeballosexpeditions.com<br />

Email: info@zeballosexpeditions.com<br />

WCVIN<br />

WCVIN<br />

Nootka transport and rentals<br />

Experience the best <strong>kayak</strong>ing in the Pacific Northwest<br />

from Tahsis, B.C. in the heart of Nootka Sound. Kayak<br />

rentals and transport to Nuchatlitz Park, Yuquot<br />

(Friendly Cove), Bligh Island Marine Park and beyond.<br />

Phone: 1-866-934-6365<br />

Website: www.tahtsadivecharters.com<br />

Email: dive@tahtsadivecharters.com<br />

Tours and Services: Tropical<br />

WCVIN<br />

WCVIN<br />

Wilderness Sea Kayaking<br />

Vancouver Island Kayaking Tours and Wilderness<br />

Retreat. Guided ecotourism adventures in remote<br />

Kyuquot, the Bunsby Islands, and Brooks Peninsula.<br />

Unmatched base camp, spectacular <strong>kayak</strong>ing, diverse<br />

wildlife, and First Nations cultural interactions.<br />

Phone: 1.800.665.3040 or 250.338.2511<br />

Web: www.westcoastexpeditions.com<br />

Email: info@westcoastexpeditions.com<br />

WCVIN<br />

Odyssey Kayaking<br />

BC Ferries port; Gateway to Northern and Central<br />

BC Coast destinations. Sales, Rentals, Lessons, Trip<br />

planning. 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post<br />

Office) Port Hardy.<br />

Phone: 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318<br />

Email: odyssey@island.net<br />

Web: www.odyssey<strong>kayak</strong>ing.com<br />

WCVIN<br />

Tofino’s Kayak Centre<br />

Tofino’s <strong>kayak</strong>ing centre providing daily sea <strong>kayak</strong><br />

tours and <strong>kayak</strong> rentals since 1988. Pick up books and<br />

supplies for the West Coast lifestyle. Enjoy espresso on<br />

our waterfront deck.<br />

Phone: 1-800-TOFINO-4 (1-800-863-4664)<br />

Web: www.tofinosea<strong>kayak</strong>ing.com<br />

Email: info@tofinosea<strong>kayak</strong>ing.com<br />

Tours and Services: East Canada<br />

1-888-652-5268<br />

.CA<br />

MADAWASKA KANU CENTRE<br />

Located near Algonquin Park, Ontario. Offers personal instruction<br />

from beginner to expert levels. Weekend and 5-day courses.<br />

Tours and Services: Alaska<br />

Kayak Transport Co.<br />

A Mothership Serving SE Alaska. Kayaking from<br />

the comforts of a mothership for a week. <strong>Paddling</strong><br />

our boats and exploring fantastic scenery and wildlife.<br />

Eating fresh caught Alaskan seafood. How good does<br />

it get?!<br />

Email: staff@<strong>kayak</strong>transport.com<br />

Web: www.<strong>kayak</strong>transport.com<br />

Phone: (206) 719-0976<br />

Tours and Services: Yukon<br />

Kanoe People Ltd.<br />

Explore Yukon's great rivers and lakes! Rentals, sales,<br />

guided tours and logistic services. Cabin rentals<br />

summer and winter on the scenic Lake Laberge.<br />

Outfitting on the Yukon for over 35 years.<br />

Web: www.kanoepeople.com<br />

Email: info@kanoepeople.com<br />

Phone: 867-668-4899<br />

Tours and Services: Europe<br />

Natura Viva: Sea <strong>kayak</strong> Finland<br />

Enjoy the unique Finnish coastline and the Baltic<br />

Sea archipelago, or the lake country labyrinth of<br />

waterways. Day trips, multi-day guided tours, selfguided<br />

tours and <strong>kayak</strong> rentals are all available. All our<br />

guides are trained professionals and our equipment is<br />

top of the line.<br />

Web: www.sea<strong>kayak</strong>finland.com<br />

Email: info@naturaviva.fi<br />

Phone: +358 50 376 8585<br />

34 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


Tour/Service Directory<br />

Eco Adventures & Education since 1991<br />

Eclectic itineraries in the Spectacular Gulf Islands<br />

Kayaking Day Tours, Expeditions,<br />

Youth Camps & Guides Courses<br />

Two Kayak friendly accommodations<br />

on Salt Spring Island<br />

1 888 529-2567 • 250 537 2553 • www.islandescapades.com<br />

Lund Kayak Tours & Rentals<br />

Kayak tours, lessons, rentals & marine delivery.<br />

Desolation Sound, Mitlenatch Island, Copeland Islands<br />

marine parks. Personalized service, stunning scenery,<br />

fascinating history, delicious organic lunches. Family /<br />

child friendly programs.<br />

Phone: 1.888.552.5558 OR 604.483.7900<br />

Web: www.terracentricadventures.com<br />

Email: fun@terracentricadventures.com<br />

Tours and Services: Haida Gwaii<br />

Kayak Desolation Sound<br />

Rent <strong>kayak</strong>s from waterfront locations in Lund or<br />

Okeover Inlet. Try the Famous Aquarium Kayak Tour or<br />

snorkel at Urchin Alley. All-inclusive multi-day trips into<br />

Desolation & Mountains.<br />

Phone: Toll free 1-866-617-4444<br />

Web: www.bcsea<strong>kayak</strong>.com<br />

Email: info@bcsea<strong>kayak</strong>.com<br />

WCVIN<br />

Gabriola Sea Kayaking<br />

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group, Clayoquot<br />

Sound , Broughton Archipelago, Kyuquot Sound ,<br />

Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands. Unforgettable<br />

paddling and great people since 1995. See you on<br />

the water!<br />

Phone: 250-247-0189<br />

Web: www.<strong>kayak</strong>toursbc.com<br />

Wilderness Adventures for Women<br />

Kayak beautiful Vancouver Island, spectacular<br />

mountain vistas, old growth rainforests, amazing<br />

wildlife, rentals, lessons and tours, open year round.<br />

Women’s Transformative Journey by Kayak.<br />

All Women - All Fun!!<br />

Phone: 250.755.6702, toll free 1.866.955.6702<br />

Web: www.adventuress.ca<br />

Email: Jan@adventuress.ca<br />

Kayak Haida Gwaii<br />

Among the world's top paddling destinations, Gwaii<br />

Haanas is an awe-inspiring oasis of wilderness at the<br />

southern tip of Haida Gwaii. Local outfitter providing<br />

guided multi-day <strong>kayak</strong> adventures since 2000.<br />

Web: www.gc<strong>kayak</strong>ing.com<br />

Email: paddle@gc<strong>kayak</strong>ing.com<br />

Phone: 250-559-4682<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 35


New Gear<br />

Maui Surf Co.<br />

Touring Whitewater Recreational<br />

If you are a <strong>kayak</strong>er forever on the<br />

lookout for versatile <strong>kayak</strong>ing footwear,<br />

Maui Surf Company has unveiled the<br />

Cirrus, a shoe that combines the sleekness<br />

and comfort of an athletic shoe and the<br />

Cascade Creek<br />

ventilation and draining ability of a water<br />

shoe. As you can imagine for a company<br />

based out of Hawaii, the shoe is best used<br />

in warm weather (60F and above). Which<br />

counts out the last six months here in the<br />

Pacific Northwest. Maybe a version with fur<br />

lining is next. www.mauisurfcompany.com<br />

Wild Coast<br />

This innovative little company from<br />

Huntington, New York, adds to its lineup<br />

in 2011 with the YakCatcher, a clip-on rod<br />

holder for <strong>kayak</strong>s and canoes. Part-time<br />

<strong>kayak</strong> fishermen and women will appreciate<br />

there are no holes to drill, no tools needed,<br />

it is fully adjustable and quick to install and<br />

remove. No need for stories now about the<br />

one that got away. www.cascadecreek.com.<br />

First released in 2005, The Wild Coast<br />

Vol. 1 set a new standard for <strong>kayak</strong>ing guide<br />

books for the British Columbia coast. It<br />

returns in 2011 with new and updated<br />

information in its second edition, mirroring<br />

the area covered by the new West Coast<br />

Vancouver Island North Marine Trail. It<br />

and an updated BC Coastal Recreation<br />

Atlas Vol. 1 will be released this spring.<br />

Order direct at www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com.<br />

Crystal -X<br />

P r o u d l y C a n a d i a n<br />

36 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


New Gear<br />

KayakPro<br />

If you’re like us here in the Pacific Northwest, your<br />

paddling muscles gather as much dust each winter as your<br />

paddle. For recreational paddlers this may not be a huge<br />

issue, but for <strong>kayak</strong> racers, it’s a tragedy. Enter KayakPro with<br />

the Multistroke designed for dragon boat athletes, outrigger,<br />

sit-and-switch and pro canoe athletes. The machine replicates<br />

the resistance and on-the-water feel of an actual boat by<br />

careful attention to blade entry, the relationship between the<br />

forces on the shaft and the top guiding hand. Plus you can<br />

select the ergometer particular to your sport.<br />

Dustpan not included.<br />

www.<strong>kayak</strong>pro.com<br />

New Portable<br />

Boat Stands<br />

For Kayaks, Canoes, SUP’s<br />

TM<br />

Suspenz.com 866.787.7369<br />

Suspenz Storage Racks<br />

Suspenz arrived a few years back with<br />

their high-quality distinctive yellow storage<br />

racks. They’ve now expanded their line with<br />

a new compact, lightweight and portable 24-<br />

inch boat stand. Use it for washing, repairs<br />

or storage. The four-leg sturdy aluminum<br />

core stand is stable on flat or uneven ground<br />

and uses UV-resistant webbing to protect<br />

the hull from damage and scratches. Two<br />

stands per kit fit into a mesh bag with carry<br />

handles. www.suspenz.com<br />

Water<br />

Ventures<br />

British<br />

Columbia<br />

Coast<br />

Recreation<br />

Maps<br />

original outdoor maps<br />

specialized for sea <strong>kayak</strong>ing<br />

DVD video guides<br />

(available later in 2011)<br />

www.CoastalWatersGroup.com<br />

NEW<br />

over 30 titles<br />

Baja<br />

Mexico<br />

NEW<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 37


Kayaks<br />

Click here online for<br />

a video presentation.<br />

Gary Doran, a Victoria, BC-based<br />

<strong>kayak</strong>ing instructor, puts the new<br />

Looksha Elite through the paces.<br />

A new Elite option<br />

Necky has expanded its cornerstone<br />

Looksha series in 2011 with a new Elite<br />

model that will be of interest to <strong>kayak</strong>ers<br />

looking for a high-end performance model<br />

with a rudder and touring capacity.<br />

The combination makes the Elite a<br />

highly versatile model with a bit more<br />

emphasis on performance than the popular<br />

Looksha 17 but without having to resort<br />

to the more Brit-boat style of the Chatham<br />

series. The Elite trims down the Looksha 17<br />

by 1.75 inches for a nimble 22-inch width,<br />

aiding speed, tracking and performance with<br />

some trade-off in stability for beginners.<br />

For comfort an aggressively-styled raised<br />

foredeck aids leg room and thigh bracing<br />

while performance paddlers will appreciate<br />

Necky Looksha Elite specs<br />

Length Beam Depth Cockpit Total storage Weight<br />

17’ 22" 12.5" 32"L x 16"W 201 litres 52/47 lbs<br />

Hull Chine Design: Base model Options Control<br />

ShallowV Med/Full Swede form Fibreglass Carbon Rudder<br />

the low rear deck for ease of rolling.<br />

The Elite shaves six inches off the<br />

Looksha 17 Composite’s length, arriving<br />

at just 17 feet, but still with good storage<br />

capacity (Necky managed to fit in thirteen<br />

15-liter dry bags; we didn’t have enough<br />

bags to try this, so we’ll take their word).<br />

Rudder pedals are SmartTrack that<br />

utilize toe control and a easy-lift locking<br />

adjustment that is simple to use on the fly.<br />

The seat is Necky’s durable molded foam<br />

with an adjustable back band. The moulded<br />

seat won’t retain water and includes the<br />

option of placing support under the foam<br />

to raise the legs to offer sciatic nerve relief<br />

and other comfort benefits.<br />

The Elite comes in both fiberglass and<br />

carbon options, and weighs in at 52 pounds;<br />

the carbon option shaves five pounds off<br />

that for a remarkably light tourer.<br />

38 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


Kayaks<br />

Click here online for<br />

a video presentation.<br />

Secure Your Next Adventure<br />

Cable Locks for Your Kayak<br />

Testing our custom Titan VI<br />

in cold water at Maple Bay.<br />

Setting loose a Titan<br />

If the name Titan VI evokes images of a<br />

big and beefy <strong>kayak</strong>, you’re only partly right.<br />

The beef is there – it measures in at 18’3”,<br />

making it best enjoyed by paddlers 5’5” and<br />

above – but otherwise Atlantis’s flagship<br />

touring <strong>kayak</strong> is simply what an all-purpose<br />

touring <strong>kayak</strong> should be: well-rounded for<br />

features and performance.<br />

Where Atlantis did push the envelope<br />

is in the production details. If you opt for<br />

the kevlar layup you are looking at one of<br />

the true high-end handmade <strong>kayak</strong>s. Add a<br />

custom fade paint theme on the deck and<br />

clear gelcoat on the hull and you are looking<br />

at a one-of-a-kind boat in a world of mass<br />

production. Such was our test sample,<br />

and the one we’ll be giving away courtesy<br />

Atlantis Kayaks (see the giveaway details<br />

page 28-29).<br />

Made on Vancouver Island, the Titan<br />

VI is a typical West Coast cruiser – a<br />

good clean design for ocean waters with a<br />

relatively soft chine, a good stable 24” width<br />

and a rudder for easy control. Nothing<br />

radical and no surprises. Those looking<br />

for carefully thought out details will find<br />

many things to like on the VI, such as the<br />

polypropelene rope for the rudder line that<br />

won’t hold salt water, no drill holes in the<br />

deck for the seat and a stretch point in the<br />

deck lines held taut by the handle.<br />

While small points to mention, it’s the<br />

myriad of these and other thoughtful design<br />

points that make the Titan VI interesting.<br />

Those looking for versatility and comfort<br />

in the seating will find six straps on the<br />

backband and a sliding seat for that exact<br />

perfect fit. Those who appreciate seeing<br />

the Kevlar web in the design will enjoy the<br />

clearcoat hull – kid gloves sold separately.<br />

Lasso Security Cables<br />

are simply the strongest,<br />

easiest and most effective<br />

theft deterrent available<br />

for your <strong>kayak</strong>.<br />

www.lassosecuritycables.com<br />

707-498-9905<br />

www.bc<strong>kayak</strong>s.com<br />

(250)391-03331 nwca@shaw.ca<br />

Atlantis Titan VI specs<br />

Length Beam Depth Cockpit Total storage Weight<br />

18’3” 24" 13" 31"L x 17"W 392 litres 58/52 lbs<br />

Hull Chine Design: Base model Options Control<br />

ShallowV Soft Fishform Fibreglass Kevlar Rudder<br />

outrigger<br />

canoe egrometer<br />

by<br />

“Paddle to<br />

your heart’s<br />

content”<br />

+1 914 740 5055<br />

KayakPro.com<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 39


Kayaks<br />

Seeing double with Delta<br />

You have to be in the right situation to<br />

fully benefit from a double <strong>kayak</strong>.<br />

First, you have to love the person you<br />

paddle with more than the independence<br />

of <strong>kayak</strong>ing a single (doubles aren’t called<br />

“divorce boats” for nothing).<br />

Then you have to have the space to<br />

store it and the brawn to move it, as many<br />

doubles can weight in at more than 100<br />

pounds.<br />

If you have the necessary Zen and<br />

Herculean credentials to be still in the market<br />

for a tandem, then the Delta 20T comes with<br />

one huge advantage off the mark: it weighs<br />

in at just 82 pounds, considerably less than<br />

many other doubles that may tempt you.<br />

It does this while still managing a spacious<br />

central hatch, providing a luxurious 716 litres<br />

of storage in three compartments – enough<br />

to make this a bona fide candidate for that<br />

dream trip to Alaska.<br />

If your interests are closer to home and<br />

family, the 20T has another nice touch. The<br />

central compartment doubles as a third<br />

passenger compartment – nothing new for<br />

large doubles – but with a curved bulkhead<br />

Delta 20T specs<br />

Length Beam Depth Cockpit Total storage Weight<br />

19’6” 26.5" 14" 32.5"L x 18"W 716 litres 82 lbs<br />

Hull Chine Design: Base model Options Control<br />

ShallowV Hard Symmetrical Thermoform -- Rudder<br />

to provide added extra leg room for a child<br />

without having to lengthen the boat. What<br />

you lose is space alongside the seat in the<br />

forward cockpit, an area not likely to be<br />

missed. The result keeps the 20T under 20<br />

feet in length.<br />

One unlikely facet of the 20T is the<br />

Browse <strong>kayak</strong>s online.<br />

Our online Kayak Buyer’s Guide lists hundreds of<br />

<strong>kayak</strong>s by make, model, length and type. Browse<br />

multiple categories, view photos, read specifications<br />

and quick-link directly to the manufacturer’s website.<br />

Your dream <strong>kayak</strong> awaits!<br />

www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com<br />

ability to talk about performance. The hull is<br />

ShallowV with a hard chine and considerable<br />

rocker, meaning it’s a good candidate for<br />

surf, rock gardens and “play” areas that most<br />

traditional doubles tend to avoid. Edge in<br />

tandem, turn on a dime. Skilled <strong>kayak</strong>ers<br />

willing to give up independence (if there are<br />

such people) will be drawn to the 20T like<br />

beach flies to intertidal kelp.<br />

Like so many boats these days, the<br />

Delta 20T’s features are well thought out.<br />

For instance, the seat is easily removed,<br />

doubling as a camp seat for extra comfort.<br />

The construction of the 20T is<br />

thermoform – an ABS base with an acrylic<br />

cap that provides both impact and UV<br />

resistance. Is it better than fiberglass?<br />

We won’t wade into that debate! But it is<br />

definitely more affordable.<br />

40 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


C L O T H I N G • F O O T W E A R • O U T D O O R G E A R • K AYA K S • C A N O E S • S U P • I N S T R U C T I O N • R E N T A L S • T O U R S<br />

Getting You Out There<br />

Since 1981<br />

1824 Store Street<br />

Victoria, BC V8T 4R4<br />

(250) 381-4233<br />

“Getting You Out There”<br />

A SIMPLE CONCEPT<br />

...KNOWLEGABLE FRIENDLY STAFF<br />

...TOP QUALITY PRODUCTS<br />

www.oceanriver.com<br />

ON-LINE SALES,<br />

GUIDED TOURS<br />

AND INSTRUCTION<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 41<br />

C L O T H I N G • F O O T W E A R • O U T D O O R G E A R • K AYA K S • C A N O E S • S U P • I N S T R U C T I O N • R E N T A L S • T O U R S


Starting Out<br />

A<br />

KAYAK is one of the best<br />

recreational investments anyone<br />

can make. But the initial outlay<br />

of cash and choices you have for those<br />

dollars can seem daunting. So how to pick<br />

the correct one? Here are some points to<br />

consider, courtesy of Chris Ladner, the<br />

owner of Ecomarine on Granville Island<br />

in Vancouver, a consultant to thousands of<br />

<strong>kayak</strong> buyers over the years.<br />

1. Know what you’re buying your<br />

<strong>kayak</strong> for.<br />

This sounds obvious, but it’s not. “You<br />

need to be thinking not just what you<br />

imagine what the <strong>kayak</strong> could be used for,<br />

but what you intend to use it for further<br />

down the road,” says Chris.<br />

Here’s where a crystal ball might come<br />

in handy. You may imagine tours of distant<br />

shores in Alaska, but in reality if all you will<br />

be doing is lake paddling from your cottage,<br />

a recreational boat will suffice. Here’s the<br />

general types and the purpose they’ll serve.<br />

Recreational boats: These boats are<br />

ideal for an hour or two in the bay, and<br />

work equally well from the deck of a yacht,<br />

motorboats or a summer cottage. These<br />

boats are generally shorter – 9.5 to 12 feet<br />

in length – and can have a range of options<br />

and material styles that dictate the cost. One<br />

important consideration is buoyancy. Look<br />

for a hatch and bulkhead that will ensure<br />

the boat won’t sink if swamped. If there is<br />

no bulkhead, you’ll need to install flotation<br />

bags before your trip.<br />

Day trip boats: These are longer<br />

recreational boats starting at about 14 feet,<br />

resulting in more glide, speed and efficiency.<br />

One consideration is the boats may be<br />

narrower, which aids performance but<br />

means less stability.<br />

Touring boats: If you’re looking for<br />

When buying,<br />

a game plan<br />

helps. Here are<br />

some hints on<br />

how to navigate<br />

the options.<br />

Click here in the online edition for a<br />

video on how to buy a <strong>kayak</strong>.<br />

more than just day trips you’re looking at<br />

boats longer than 14 feet to manage the<br />

storage demands and sea conditions you’ll<br />

meet. Most touring boats are in the general<br />

range of about 17 feet in length, making<br />

them faster, more efficient and capable of<br />

hauling gear – often several week’s worth,<br />

if need be.<br />

Other options: Kayaks can serve very<br />

particular purposes, such as the racing<br />

<strong>kayak</strong>s, which are very long but also very<br />

narrow; or fishing <strong>kayak</strong>s, which are usually<br />

sit-on-top, extra wide for stability and have<br />

lots of features specifically designed for<br />

fishing.<br />

2. Set your budget.<br />

The initial investment may seem large,<br />

especially for the high-end boats, but keep<br />

in mind after the purchase there are few<br />

incidentals such as lift tickets or launching<br />

fees (at least not yet). In addition, <strong>kayak</strong>s<br />

hold their value and won’t need replacing<br />

for years, possibly decades – if ever.<br />

Naturally, you need not spend much<br />

if budget is a consideration. Recreational<br />

boats can be the least expensive, but still<br />

with a vast range depending on the features<br />

and construction. The addage applies: you<br />

get what you pay for.<br />

3. Think about the features and<br />

benefits you want.<br />

There are lots of different things<br />

you can get for your <strong>kayak</strong>, and a good<br />

first place to look is the hatches. The<br />

arrangements and styles vary by model,<br />

but a popular style is the two-piece with<br />

a neoprene cover below the strapped-on<br />

hatch. A style proven seaworthy is the onepiece<br />

rubber hatch, usually available as an<br />

oval that simply pulls off around a lip then<br />

pushes back on again.<br />

The trick is matching the features you<br />

want with the style of <strong>kayak</strong>. For instance,<br />

rubber hatches may not be an option for<br />

the style of recreation boat you’re seeking.<br />

The control device is another key<br />

consideration. A rudder controlled through<br />

cables attached to foot pedals is a popular<br />

configuration and allows for easy steering.<br />

An alternative is a skeg, a fin that pops<br />

down to add stability in wind and waves.<br />

This requires the additional skill of learning<br />

how to use a paddle blade to turn the boat.<br />

The cross-section of your hull should<br />

also be part of your evaluation. The<br />

rounder the hull the faster it’s going to be,<br />

but at the cost of stability. A flatter bottom<br />

and defined keel will enhance stability and<br />

(with the keel) tracking.<br />

Also, consider the amount of rocker in<br />

the hull – that is, curvature in the shape.<br />

“The more rocker you have, the easier it<br />

is for the boat to turn, but the deeper the<br />

boat sits in the water so the slower it’s going<br />

to be,” says Chris. “So the tradeoff is lots<br />

of tracking means straight-line, fast speed<br />

and efficiency but harder to turn, and the<br />

42 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


y Chris Ladner and Coast&Kayak <strong>Magazine</strong><br />

How to buy a <strong>kayak</strong><br />

more rocker means easier to maneuver in<br />

rough weather but slower.”<br />

The construction type will be another<br />

key factor in choosing a <strong>kayak</strong>, which in<br />

large part is affected by budget. Plastic<br />

(polyethelene) is the most economical, quite<br />

tough and rugged but it’s a bit slower in the<br />

Instruction/Education<br />

water and can get gouged, as it is a softer<br />

material. Thermoform is a middle-of-theroad<br />

option. It has the ruggedness of the<br />

softer plastic but the characteristics of the<br />

fiberglass for speed.<br />

Higher in price are the fiberglass and<br />

finally kevlar options. These are considered<br />

the highest performing type of <strong>kayak</strong>, and<br />

also good for weight and durability.<br />

<<br />

Thanks to Ecomarine owner Chris Ladner for<br />

sharing his expertise for this article. You can<br />

visit the store online at www.ecomarine.com.<br />

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SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 43


Wildlife for <strong>kayak</strong>ers<br />

by James Dorsey<br />

FOR THOSE OF US who love<br />

to paddle coastal waters, there<br />

is a feathery companion whose<br />

historical link to coastal man may date<br />

back further than any other seabird.<br />

The ibis is a wading bird, often<br />

mistaken for a heron. It frequents coastal<br />

shallows, lagoons, marshes and bay, and its<br />

historic connections with humans can be<br />

traced all the way back to the bible.<br />

They are of the family Threskiornithidae,<br />

(order Ciconiiformes) and their name is<br />

believed to be Greek, borrowed from the<br />

ancient Egyptian “HIB.” There are about<br />

30 known species and 13 separate genus<br />

of this varied and curious creature.<br />

I have often glided silently by them<br />

in the marshy wetlands of Southern<br />

California where I live, and also in the<br />

mangroves of Baja, Mexico, where I<br />

frequently paddle. They walk along nobly<br />

as they use their long curved beak that<br />

they often bury up to their eyes to probe<br />

in the mud for mollusks, crustaceans, and<br />

small fish.<br />

They are found in warm latitudes<br />

throughout the world with some of<br />

them migrating to warmer climates in<br />

wintertime. They can stand two and a<br />

half feet (75 cm) in height on their long<br />

legs, and vary in color and plumage<br />

depending on the particular species. All are<br />

identifiable by the orange beak. Because<br />

of the beak’s unique curved shape and<br />

strength, the ibis will also probe into grass<br />

to find worms, helping to aerate the soil as<br />

it feeds.<br />

They nest either on the ground or in<br />

short bushes near the coast, building homes<br />

of small tree limbs. The female will lay<br />

three to five green or blue eggs often with<br />

brown speckles. They are social within their<br />

species and often nest colonially with both<br />

male and female caring for the eggs and<br />

newborn hatchlings. They feed their young<br />

small fish, frogs, and sometimes human<br />

detritus that both male and female collect.<br />

During mating they are known to make<br />

grunts and croaking noises, but other than<br />

that are usually silent. When hunting they<br />

can draft low over the water looking for<br />

prey, riding the thermal currents just off<br />

the caps of waves. While rooting along in<br />

shallows they will usually be found in pairs,<br />

one standing watch while the other hunts.<br />

Among the species, the glossy ibis is<br />

found throughout the lower eastern United<br />

States and as far as Europe and Australia,<br />

while the white face and white ibis are only<br />

found in the Americas. The scarlet ibis,<br />

bright red or pink as its name implies, is<br />

native to South America where it is often<br />

hunted for its bright plumage. Because it was<br />

so devastatingly hunted there, the scarlet ibis<br />

was introduced to the United States in the<br />

1960s in hopes of maintaining the species<br />

and it is now doing well there. It is still the<br />

national bird of Trinidad and Tobago.<br />

44 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


The ancient ibis<br />

The sacred ibis, the largest of them all, is found in coastal Africa,<br />

usually south of the Sahara, but is no longer seen in Egypt where it<br />

was once worshipped as sacred.<br />

In the Birecik region of Turkey, near Mount Ararat, where<br />

Noah’s ark supposedly<br />

came to rest after the great<br />

flood, local legend claims<br />

the northern bald ibis to<br />

be the first bird released<br />

by Noah as a symbol of<br />

fertility, and because of<br />

this strong local belief, it allowed that particular bird to thrive in<br />

that region long after it became extinct across the rest of Europe.<br />

In ancient Egypt, the god Thoth, symbol of wisdom and<br />

knowledge, was often depicted as a man with the head of an ibis.<br />

Throughout Egypt there are murals and statues of the ibis, and<br />

at the city of Hermopolis the birds were specifically bred for<br />

sacrifices. In Saqqara, home of the famous step pyramid south of<br />

Giza, a building known as the Serapeum was used to bury bulls<br />

worshipped by a religious cult, and in it is confines the mummified<br />

remains of one and a half million ibises was uncovered along with<br />

thousands of mummified falcons.<br />

In the southern United States, local folk claim the ibis is the<br />

last animal to take cover at the approach of a hurricane and the<br />

first to reappear after the storm. Because of this the mascot of the<br />

University of Miami is an American white ibis.<br />

They are magnificent to watch in flight as they crane their<br />

elegant necks forward while extending their long legs straight<br />

out to the rear. On a recent paddle in Mexico I was privileged to<br />

watch dozens of white ibis soaring low over the water, riding the<br />

thermals while spotting baitfish, then landing all around my boat<br />

to feast as I sat there, silently marveling at their quiet beauty. For<br />

at least a thousand years the <strong>kayak</strong> has been one of mankind’s<br />

steadiest forms of coastal transport and the ibis was there long<br />

before.<br />

<<br />

You can follow James Dorsey’s work at his website, www.<br />

jamesdorsey.com. You can also read past articles by Dorsey in this<br />

series on seabirds at www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com/Articles_wildlife.html<br />

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SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 45


Skillset<br />

By Alex Matthews<br />

1 2<br />

3<br />

Set your course dead ahead? No!<br />

IN SOME SITUATIONS, one<br />

very useful strategy for navigation is<br />

to deliberately aim away from your<br />

intended target. While this may initially<br />

seem counterintuitive, intentionally “aiming<br />

off ” can be the most reliable way of<br />

finding your way to your destination.<br />

Let’s say that you are making a crossing<br />

to a small campsite. From your starting<br />

point, the far shore appears very uniform<br />

in geography and there are no distinctive<br />

landmarks to denote your intended<br />

campsite’s location.<br />

Knowing the campsite’s position on your<br />

chart, you can set a compass course directly<br />

to it. But if you should fail to pick out the<br />

site by the time you reach the far shore,<br />

you won’t know which way to turn (right or<br />

left) in order to reach it. The site might be<br />

very close by on your right, but if you guess<br />

incorrectly and turn left instead, you will<br />

waste a lot of time before doubling back<br />

and finally locating the elusive campsite.<br />

A better strategy is to intentionally aim<br />

off to one side or the other of your target.<br />

That way you are guaranteed to know<br />

Aim off<br />

How aiming away from your target<br />

can get you there more reliably<br />

which way to turn in order to locate your<br />

goal.<br />

1<br />

Working with the chart, aim off<br />

to a point that is a predetermined<br />

distance from your final destination. Pick,<br />

for example, to cross to a point half a<br />

nautical mile to the right of the campsite.<br />

If, like most paddlers, you cruise at about<br />

3 knots, then it will take you about 10<br />

minutes to cover that half nautical mile.<br />

Your new plan then, is to paddle<br />

across the channel, hit the far shore, turn<br />

left and paddle along the shoreline for<br />

approximately 10 minutes. This should put<br />

you very close to the campsite.<br />

In this scenario the shoreline is serving<br />

as both a “backstop” and as a “handrail”<br />

that will guide you to your goal. It’s also<br />

worth noting that this strategy works just as<br />

well in dense fog or at night.<br />

2<br />

In another scenario we might use the<br />

same strategy but with a particular<br />

emphasis on the backstop and handrail<br />

aspects. Imagine this time that we are<br />

crossing to a far point of a distant island<br />

completely enveloped in fog. If we set a<br />

46 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


Aiming off<br />

compass course aimed directly at the point,<br />

any minor drift to the right will result in<br />

missing the island altogether. Aiming off<br />

to the left at the bulk of the landmass<br />

precludes passing by the point, and instead<br />

sets us up with a backstop and a useful<br />

handrail that will guide us safely to the<br />

point.<br />

When navigating, a backstop is not<br />

necessarily a physical barrier. When we<br />

calculate a distance and the time we require<br />

to cover it, we are using time as a very<br />

effective backstop.<br />

3<br />

In a final example, the paddler<br />

embarks on a crossing to a long<br />

narrow island lost in fog. Rather than<br />

attempting to hit the narrow point directly,<br />

the <strong>kayak</strong>er instead uses time as a backstop.<br />

Working from the chart, he establishes a<br />

position past the point (in this case let’s say<br />

3 nautical miles), and some distance off of<br />

the left coast of the island (let’s say half<br />

a nautical mile). Since the <strong>kayak</strong>er cruises<br />

at 3 knots, the plan is to paddle for one<br />

hour, make a 90-degree right-hand turn<br />

off his original course, and then paddle<br />

for 10 minutes to bring him to the island’s<br />

shoreline. From there he knows to turn<br />

right and handrail his way along the coast to<br />

the point and his campsite.<br />

When aiming off, it’s obviously of<br />

primary importance to have done all the<br />

chart and compass work before setting<br />

forth. Because compass courses and<br />

paddling times for each leg of a journey can<br />

easily get jumbled, it’s best to write them<br />

down. I’ve found myself second-guessing<br />

my memory in thick fog more than once.<br />

Some like to write directly on charts, while<br />

others will record courses and times on<br />

their foredecks with a wax pencil.<br />

<<br />

Alex Matthews is the author of “Sea Kayaking<br />

Rough Waters” available at<br />

www.helipress.com. More of Alex’s Skillset<br />

articles plus other skills columns can be read<br />

online at on our Skills page at<br />

www.coastand<strong>kayak</strong>.com/Articles_skills.html<br />

Now you can comment.<br />

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SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 47<br />

photo: M. Scriver


Paddle Meals<br />

by Hilary Masson<br />

Recipes with a sting<br />

Natural plants can<br />

add flare to your<br />

cooking, with a<br />

surprising option<br />

being a good-old<br />

patch of nettles<br />

ONE MEMORABLE<br />

springtime <strong>kayak</strong> trip I<br />

discovered some good<br />

stinging nettle habitat in and around<br />

the Flat Top Islands south of<br />

Gabriola Island. My good friend is<br />

an endangered species biologist, and<br />

we set off in our <strong>kayak</strong>s to explore<br />

around the Gulf Islands looking for<br />

great blue heron nests. <strong>Paddling</strong> to a<br />

known heron rookery we got out of<br />

our boats for a closer look with the<br />

spotting scope in order to count the<br />

number of fluffy squawking chicks.<br />

Herons typically nest inland from their<br />

shoreline feeding habitat in large Douglas fir<br />

or broadleaf maple trees, seeking protection<br />

from their main predator, bald eagles. Upon<br />

nearing a big fir tree we found a phenomenal<br />

patch of nettle thriving on nitrogen-enriched<br />

soil from the heron poop. This meant that<br />

we couldn’t approach too close to the nests<br />

in fear of being stung by the big patch of<br />

nettle. Most of the nest sites we visited<br />

around the Gulf Islands had similar patches<br />

of nettle growing underneath the large trees.<br />

Great protection!<br />

The spring is an ideal time to not only<br />

get out on the water to enjoy the wildlife<br />

but also to harvest edible plants. When<br />

paddling this spring, try collecting some<br />

native plants to add local flair to your<br />

camp cooking. This is the best season<br />

for collecting many edible plants such as<br />

dandelion, fiddleheads and nettle. These<br />

can all add nutrition and flavor to your<br />

meals, but our local nettle has to be my<br />

An exploration of the Flat Top Islands near<br />

Gabriola can be made more interesting if you<br />

keep your eyes open for edibles.<br />

personal favorite. Stinging nettle is a<br />

‘super food’ providing the highest plant<br />

source of iron. Nettle also contains other<br />

minerals such as calcium, magnesium,<br />

silicon, sulphur, copper, chromium, zinc,<br />

cobalt, potassium and phosphorus as well<br />

as high amounts of vitamins A, C, D, E,<br />

and K. This ‘super food’ was previously<br />

used to prevent and treat scurvy (which<br />

I’m sure is a big concern for all you sea<br />

<strong>kayak</strong>ers during long expeditions). Some<br />

may be surprised to learn that nettle is<br />

not only nutritious but also flavorful. First<br />

Nations had many uses for our common<br />

nettle, including drying and processing the<br />

strong and silky fibers to make twine, rope<br />

and fishing nets. Nettle can be dried and<br />

stored for a flavorful tea, picked fresh and<br />

substituted in any recipe that calls for<br />

greens such as spinach, Swiss chard<br />

or kale.<br />

Nettle thrives in the rich moist<br />

soils of shaded fields, clearings,<br />

along streams and, as noted, under<br />

great blue heron nests. The young<br />

shoots spring up in early April,<br />

and the leaves can be collected<br />

throughout the summer. To identify<br />

this plant look at the stems. They<br />

are ribbed with fine spines and can<br />

grow up to 1.8 meters tall. The<br />

leaves are coarsely toothed and grow<br />

in opposite pairs, covered with fine<br />

stinging hairs. Each leaf can grow to<br />

be an average of 10 cm long.<br />

Another way to identify this<br />

plant is to look for the tassels of<br />

very small greenish flowers that<br />

hang from the leaf nodes. When<br />

the hairs on nettle leaves contact<br />

your skin, a small amount of formic<br />

acid is injected, creating a powerful<br />

stinging sensation which can last<br />

several hours; hence the name.<br />

Avoid stinging by wearing gloves,<br />

or cover your hands with a plastic bag<br />

while harvesting the leaves. Once dried or<br />

blanched in boiling water for one minute,<br />

the sting is completely removed.<br />

Kayakers Camp Tip:<br />

A small and flexible cooler on a trip<br />

is a benefit, even if its effectiveness<br />

only lasts the first few days. It is great<br />

for providing fresh food menu options.<br />

Frozen meats, frozen seafood, frozen<br />

sauces (like the pesto, page 50) and<br />

dairy products can be kept for use in<br />

the early days of an expedition. After<br />

the freezer pack thaws, normally by day<br />

three, and the items in the cooler have<br />

been eaten, simply collapse the cooler<br />

and store it in your hatch. Enjoy more<br />

creative and elaborate meals. Go for<br />

it, be the gourmet on your next <strong>kayak</strong><br />

adventure.<br />

48 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


Nettle Recipes<br />

Try a tasty nettle tart, but spinach works as well<br />

Nettle Tart Pastry:<br />

• 1-1/4 cups flour<br />

• 1/4 teaspoon salt<br />

• 1/2 cup butter, cut into pieces<br />

(Try freezing the butter and<br />

packing it in a cooler bag to use<br />

within the first few days of your<br />

trip. The cooler butter creates a<br />

better texture for the pastry.)<br />

• 1/3 cup cool water (Put the water<br />

bottle in the ocean to cool below<br />

air temperature. The colder the<br />

water, the more flaky and light the<br />

pastry.)<br />

Mix the flour and salt in a large<br />

bowl, add the butter pieces and<br />

pinch with your fingers to make<br />

a crumb texture, then slowly add the<br />

water. Don’t mix the dough too much;<br />

the desired flaky texture of the tart pastry<br />

comes from the butter crumbs. Divide into<br />

two discs and set aside in the shade for 10<br />

minutes while making the tart topping.<br />

This pastry recipe is quick and works<br />

wonderfully with any toppings you can<br />

imagine. Another of my favorite savory<br />

tarts is blue cheese, pear and walnut. Or<br />

try a sweet tart for desert with fruits and<br />

nuts.<br />

Nettle Tart:<br />

• 1 disc pastry<br />

• 2 tablespoons olive oil<br />

• 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped<br />

• 3 cups nettle, blanched in boiling water<br />

for one minute, then chopped<br />

• ½ cup parmesan cheese,<br />

grated<br />

• 1 egg, lightly beaten<br />

• 1 tablespoon sesame seeds<br />

• 1 tablespoon dried oregano<br />

• zest of one lemon<br />

• salt and pepper to taste<br />

Roll one of the pastry discs to<br />

the size of your Outback Oven<br />

or Dutch Oven (use a water<br />

bottle dusted with flour instead<br />

of a rolling pin while camping).<br />

In a frying pan add olive oil<br />

and garlic, stir in your blanched<br />

nettle leaves, parmesan cheese,<br />

and egg. Remove from heat,<br />

season with salt and pepper. Grease<br />

Outback Oven pan with butter or oil, then<br />

place rolled pastry in pan and spread<br />

nettle topping evenly over pastry. Sprinkle<br />

the sesame seeds and lemon zest on top<br />

and bake for 20 minutes. Slice tart and<br />

enjoy! Try substituting spinach for nettle in<br />

this fun and savory tart recipe.<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 49


Paddle Meals<br />

Stinging nettle pesto: try packing ahead<br />

• 6 cups fresh nettle, blanched in boiling<br />

water for one minute, drained then finely<br />

chopped<br />

• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped<br />

• 2 shallots, finely chopped<br />

• ½ cup parmesan cheese<br />

• ¼ cup pine nuts<br />

• ¼ cup almonds (substitute walnuts,<br />

cashews, hazelnuts, pistachios)<br />

• 1/3 cup olive oil<br />

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice<br />

• salt and pepper to taste<br />

Place the blanched nettle, garlic,<br />

shallots, parmesan cheese and lemon<br />

juice in a hand- crank blender (my<br />

favorite kitchen tool) and mix until a<br />

smooth consistency. Chop the nuts finely<br />

on a cutting board or use a rock to crush<br />

them, kind of like a mortar and pestle.<br />

Blend in the nuts, then slowly stir in the<br />

olive oil. Finish by seasoning with salt and<br />

pepper. This can be tossed with pasta,<br />

spread on crackers, wraps, sandwiches<br />

or pizza, and is fabulous as sauce for<br />

your freshly caught salmon grilled over a<br />

beach fire!<br />

Consider preparing nettle pesto<br />

before you go camping, and save by<br />

home canning or freezing. I like to freeze<br />

the pesto in a small container and pack it<br />

into my small portable cooler to use on<br />

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50 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


Substitute nettle in this Japanese salad<br />

Nettle Recipes<br />

Gomae Salad<br />

• 7 cups nettle (ordinarily<br />

spinach or kale)<br />

• 1 tablespoon salt<br />

Blanch nettle in boiling<br />

water until tender, drain and<br />

cool.<br />

Sesame Dressing<br />

• 1 tablespoon tahini (sesame<br />

butter)<br />

• 1 teaspoon spicy peanut<br />

sauce<br />

• 1 teaspoon tamari (soy sauce)<br />

• 1 teaspoon sesame oil (or<br />

substitute olive oil)<br />

• 5 tablespoons sesame seeds,<br />

roasted on hot frying pan,<br />

sprinkled on top of salad<br />

This Japanese steamed<br />

spinach salad with sesame<br />

dressing is a great recipe to try<br />

with stinging nettle. It is the<br />

ultimate recipe because it is<br />

so easy. Just steam the nettle,<br />

make a quick dressing, and<br />

roast some sesame seeds to<br />

sprinkle on top. Easy, tasty and<br />

healthy, this nettle recipe that<br />

is a great side salad for when<br />

you make sushi with freshly<br />

caught (from your <strong>kayak</strong>)<br />

salmon.<br />

Accommodation<br />

WCVIN<br />

Designates West Coast Vancouver Island North Marine Trail service provider<br />

Explore the BC coast by day,<br />

enjoy luxury by night<br />

at locations that cater to <strong>kayak</strong>s<br />

WCVIN<br />

WCVIN<br />

SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 51


Fishing Angles<br />

Thinking tackle? Think big<br />

A <strong>kayak</strong> fishing<br />

professional shares<br />

his thoughts on the<br />

best tackle for the job<br />

If you already own a rod and reel<br />

and simply wish to fish from your <strong>kayak</strong><br />

occasionally, there is no reason to go<br />

out and buy new tackle. If you have a<br />

serviceable rod and reel with which you are<br />

comfortable fishing from a boat deck or<br />

shore, chances are the rig will be fine for<br />

fishing from your <strong>kayak</strong>. Use the money you<br />

save from buying a new rod or reel to go<br />

towards a good rod holder and a leash to<br />

secure what’s already in hand, then go fish!<br />

On the other hand, if you find yourself<br />

absolutely hooked by the fishing angle, or<br />

simply want to give yourself the best shot<br />

at success as you learn to fish from your<br />

favorite paddle craft, you might want to<br />

consider purchasing tackle made specifically<br />

for use from a <strong>kayak</strong>.<br />

Whether you prefer to use spinning, baitcasting,<br />

spin-casting or fly tackle, you can<br />

stick with the common reels when fishing<br />

from a <strong>kayak</strong>; it is the rod that differs from<br />

the traditional in paddle-fishing tackle.<br />

“It’s all about length,” says Craig Kivi, a<br />

<strong>kayak</strong> fishing guide who started producing his<br />

own line of rods when he couldn’t find tackle<br />

to his liking. “Spinning and casting rods used<br />

from a <strong>kayak</strong> need to be at least seven feet<br />

Craig Kivi at work.<br />

long, on up to about nine feet. Fly rods should<br />

start at nine feet and go up from there.”<br />

According to Craig, rods used for<br />

fishing from <strong>kayak</strong>s need to be longer than<br />

conventional ones for two reasons: “The<br />

primary reason is the casting advantage<br />

offered by the longer rod. The angler is<br />

seated in a low position relative to the water<br />

and the extra leverage offered by a longer<br />

rod makes for longer, easier casting.<br />

“The other advantage of a long rod<br />

comes when fighting a fish,” says Craig.<br />

“The longer rod allows you the length and<br />

leverage required to work a fish around<br />

the boat; the rod needs to be long enough<br />

to clear the bow and the stern if the fish<br />

makes a run or dives under the <strong>kayak</strong>.”<br />

The grips on <strong>kayak</strong> fishing rods are<br />

different from the traditional as well. Craig<br />

prefers them to be longer than found on<br />

most fishing rods.<br />

“Too long a butt end (the grip below the<br />

reel seat) will get in your way and jab the<br />

angler in the stomach; too short a butt and<br />

the rig will be hard to cast with two hands,<br />

which is helpful when casting from a seated<br />

position,” he says. Craig recommends 10-<br />

inch butt ends for both casting and spinning<br />

rods in most situations.<br />

The fore-grip (the cork or foam area<br />

above the reel seat) can be longer on <strong>kayak</strong><br />

rods used in cold conditions, but otherwise<br />

they are much the same as found on<br />

traditional rods.<br />

“When your hands are wet and cold, it’s<br />

way more comfortable to wrap your fingers<br />

around foam or cork than having them<br />

against fiberglass or graphite.”<br />

As for hardware, Craig says the best <strong>kayak</strong><br />

fishing rods feature premium-quality guides<br />

with super-slick inserts to allow line to flow<br />

freely when casting. He also recommends<br />

single foot guides on rods where weight is an<br />

issue. Ditto all-graphite rod construction to<br />

keep weight low and sensitivity high.<br />

For line, Kivi provides his <strong>kayak</strong> fishing<br />

clients with rigs spooled with premium<br />

monofilament line for the casting attribute.<br />

When clear water conditions require it, he<br />

will rig a leader of fluorocarbon.<br />

And as any angler who has done much<br />

casting from a low-to-the-water, seated<br />

position knows: size and distance matter.<br />

<<br />

Dan Armitage is a boating, fishing and<br />

travel writer based in the Midwest. He is<br />

a licensed (USCG Master) captain, hosts a<br />

syndicated radio show, and presents <strong>kayak</strong><br />

fishing seminars at boat shows.<br />

Craig Kivi is the owner of Michigan’s<br />

Golden Drake Outdoors.<br />

Inflatable Kayaks<br />

The revolutionary Airis Inflatable Kayak,<br />

is rigid and stable, yet lightweight and<br />

compact. Every Airis <strong>kayak</strong> rolls up to stow<br />

inside its own custom designed backpack.<br />

Find Airis Kayaks at:<br />

Harbour Chandler<br />

52 Esplanade<br />

Nanaimo BC V9R 4Y7<br />

(250) 753-2425<br />

52 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 53


Vignettes<br />

We’ve had fun paddling on recent Coast&Kayak<br />

<strong>Magazine</strong> trips. Well, mostly we’ve had fun. Here are a few<br />

memorable images we’ve accumulated on recent outings.<br />

u<br />

Is this a case of the <strong>kayak</strong>ing natives growing restless or<br />

an affliction to which Greenland paddling enthusiasts<br />

are prone? We’re not sure, and perhaps it’s best if we<br />

never find out. Photographed during a lighter moment<br />

during the difficult task of dressing for protection from<br />

the sun at Cape Sutil on north Vancouver Island.<br />

u<br />

Greenland paddlers gone wild<br />

The cutest bilge sludge ever<br />

Occasionally the oddest things can be found washed<br />

up in the bottom of your <strong>kayak</strong>’s cockpit. In this case<br />

it was Julianne Chetcuti (occasionally referred to as<br />

Jujube), the newest member of the Coast&Kayak team.<br />

who joined us for a three-generation family paddle in<br />

our tester Seaward Passat (proving it is indeed a <strong>kayak</strong><br />

suitable for the whole family) with mom Brandie who<br />

joined us from her home in the Yukon. Bet the copies of<br />

this issue that we mail to Kanoe People in Whitehorse<br />

won’t last long!<br />

u u<br />

The latest in beach fashionware<br />

How to protect the perfect urchin shell that you<br />

find on day one of a five-day trip? Simple – braid it<br />

into your hair! The odd thing is that the other hikers<br />

we encountered on the Nootka Trail never once<br />

commented. Perhaps they didn’t notice? Or maybe it<br />

looked so natural it appeared a regular hiking/fashion<br />

accessory. Or more probable, they were scared to ask.<br />

Navigation hazards gone wild<br />

Here’s a tragic example of what happens when a bad<br />

idea catches on. Or perhaps there’s a very odd and<br />

highly selective magnetic pull to this old piling that<br />

sits in Newcastle Channel near Nanaimo, BC. We’ll be<br />

keeping an eye open, no doubt, to see exactly how this<br />

marker becomes populated.<br />

u Advertising directory<br />

Accommodation:<br />

Kayak Friendly Accommodation.........50-51<br />

Associations:<br />

BC Marine Trails Network Assoc................. 27<br />

Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC................. 43<br />

Destinations:<br />

Gwaii Hanaas Provincial Park Reserve.....56<br />

Haida Gwaii / Gohaidagwaii.com.................7<br />

Quadraislandtourism.ca....................................19<br />

Directories:<br />

Instruction/Education....................................... 43<br />

Kayak Friendly Accommodation................50<br />

Tours and Services...............................................34<br />

Events:<br />

Vancouver Island Paddlefest......................... 27<br />

Kayak Manufacturers:<br />

Advanced Elements...........................................38<br />

Atlantis.........................................................................11<br />

BorealDesign........................................................... 47<br />

Delta................................................................................5<br />

Feathercraft................................................................6<br />

Klepper....................................................................... 14<br />

Necky Kayaks.............................................................7<br />

Nimbus....................................................................... 26<br />

Orca Boats................................................................38<br />

Peregrine Kayaks..................................................23<br />

Pygmy............................................................................6<br />

Seaward..................................................................... 49<br />

Valley...............................................................................3<br />

Waters Dancing Boat Kit Company.......... 45<br />

Gear Manufacturers:<br />

Blue Water Kayak Works................................... 37<br />

Cascade Creek....................................................... 37<br />

Coastal Waters....................................................... 37<br />

Danuu Canoe & Kayak Covers...................... 37<br />

H20 Paddles.............................................................36<br />

KayakPro.................................................................... 39<br />

Lasso Security Cables........................................ 39<br />

Natural West Coast Adventure Gear........ 39<br />

Nimbus Paddles....................................................23<br />

NRS.................................................................................15<br />

Seals Sprayskirts....................................................22<br />

Solo Rescue Assist...............................................36<br />

Suspenz Storage Racks..................................... 37<br />

Instruction:<br />

Instruction/Education Directory................ 43<br />

North Island College.......................................... 43<br />

Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC................. 43<br />

Vancouver Island University.......................... 43<br />

Repairs:<br />

Blackline Marine.................................................... 45<br />

Retail Outlets/Dealers:<br />

Aardvark’s.................................................................. 32<br />

Alberni Outpost.................................................... 55<br />

Alder Creek Kayak & Canoe........................... 39<br />

Aquabatics............................................................... 45<br />

Comox Valley Kayaks......................................... 33<br />

Deep Cove Outdoors...........................................2<br />

Ecomarine................................................................. 10<br />

Harbour Chandler................................................ 52<br />

Hook 1 Kayak Fishing Gear............................. 52<br />

OceanRiver Sports................................................41<br />

Western Canoeing & Kayaking.......................2<br />

Valhalla Pure Outfitters..................................... 53<br />

Tours:<br />

Baja Kayak Adventure Tours..........................40<br />

Coast Mountain Expeditions.........................19<br />

Gulf Islands Kayaking..........................................19<br />

Tofino Sea Kayaking........................................... 32<br />

Tours and Services Directory.................34-35<br />

54 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011


SPRING 2011 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE 55


Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve,<br />

National Marine Conservation Area<br />

Reserve and Haida Heritage Site<br />

parkscanada.gc.ca<br />

Réserve de parc national, Réserve d’aire<br />

marine nationale de conservation,<br />

et site du patrimoine haïda Gwaii Haanas<br />

parcscanada.gc.ca<br />

ExploreÊtheÊnewÊGwaiiÊHaanas.<br />

Real.ÊInspiring.<br />

RedŽcouvrezÊGwaiiÊHaanas.<br />

ÊÊ Unique.ÊVraiment.<br />

GwaiiÊHaanasÊisÊnowÊtheÊworldÕsÊ<br />

firstÊareaÊprotectedÊfromÊmountainÊ<br />

top to deep sea.<br />

The Haida have had a connection with these islands and<br />

surrounding waters for more than 12,000 years. They managed<br />

and cared for this place according to the belief that everything<br />

is connected to everything else – people, plants, animals, land,<br />

sea and air. Now Parks Canada and the Council of the Haida<br />

Nation manage the land and sea together as one entity.<br />

Gwaii Haanas invites you to explore this amazing place.<br />

GwaiiÊHaanasÊestÊleÊpremierÊendroitÊauÊ<br />

mondeʈÊêtreÊprotŽgŽÊduÊsommetÊdesÊ<br />

montagnesÊauxÊprofondeursÊdeÊlaÊmer.ÊÊ<br />

Les Haïdas ont des liens enracinés dans ces îles et les eaux<br />

environnantes depuis plus de 12 000 ans. Ils ont pris soin<br />

de cet endroit selon le principe que tout est interrelié – les<br />

gens, les plantes, les animaux, la terre, la mer et l’air.<br />

Aujourd’hui, Parcs Canada et le Conseil de la nation haïda<br />

gèrent ensemble la terre et la mer, en tant qu’une seule entité.<br />

Gwaii Haanas vous invite à découvrir cet endroit magnifique.<br />

1-877-559-8818ÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊÊ<br />

HAIDA NATION

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