a kayak - Wavelength Paddling Magazine

The BC Marine Trail
Map continues north on page 25
Boat Basin (3 sites) 9
9 Barcester Bay
Hesquiat Harbour
13
Hesquiat Trail
F
Hesquiat Peninsula
Provincial Park
Clayoquot Sound is the most accessible of the regions of the
West Coast Vancouver Island North marine trail, but don’t hold
that against it. The bustling little surf, resort and tourist trap of
Tofino, blessed by paved highway access (tumultuous as it is), is
the obligatory starting point, but once on water you are quickly
immersed in wilderness. Turn right at the kayak launch (yes,
Tofino actually has a designated kayak launch), and head into some
brilliantly mountainous passages that run between Vancouver and
Meares islands, or any number of smaller islands that dot the region
for a journey through protected waters. Turn left from Tofino
(that’s west, by the way) and head out towards incredible open
ocean, storm-battered, reef-strewn shoreline and sprawling beaches
that mark Vargas Island and other smaller camping options. Head
straight north and leave everything behind, either taking the easier
waters on the inland of Flores Island to reach the pristine beauty of
Shelter Inlet or take the outer waters of Flores where the humpback
and grey whales frolic year-round.
Head far enough and reach Hot Springs Cove, a renowned
attraction with a heated mineral spring that feeds a rocky channel
set just above the waterline for a perfect soak. Water taxis and
floatplanes feed a steady supply of tourists, though, and make the
shore of Maquinna Provincial Park toward Hesquiat Harbour a
better wilderness option for kayakers.
Several remote trails offer opportunities for land access, from
the short, pleasant and civilized Big Cedar Trail on Meares Island
to the wild mountain climb of the Wild Side Trail on Flores Island.
For the most adventurous, there’s the rarely visited beach walk of
Hesquiat Peninsula. Take your pick of hikes and/or paddles to
suit your ambitions and interests. There’s always something for the
adventurous spirit in Clayoquot Sound.
Access points: Tofino is the only town that borders the
waters of Clayoquot Sound, making it the de facto starting
point for almost any trip into this region. The kayak launch
is located next to the main government dock off First Street.
Parking is available nearby, though a fee may apply. One
alternative is within Pacific Rim National Park at Grice Bay,
but parking is restricted overnight at the launch. Water taxis
cater mainly to the tourist trade here, not kayaks, though
kayakers may be accommodated by some service providers.
A regular and reasonably priced passenger shuttle runs to
Ahousat on Flores Island, solving access for hikers of the
Wild Side Trail.
Short trips: A traditional beginner’s adventure from
Tofino is Lemmens Inlet set in Meares Island. It avoids the
currents on all but the short crossing of Duffin Passage. A
visit can be combined with hikes of either the Big Cedar
Trail or an ascent of Lone Cone for spectacular views of the
sound.
Moderate trips: Vargas Island is a great destination for
intermediate paddlers. Though channels can have strong
currents near Tofino, an easy route is on the inside via
Maurus Channel to Dick and Jane Beach on the northwest
corner of the island, or any number of secondary campsites
on Vargas or nearby islands. A more demanding route
is south of the island to spectacular Ahous Bay, noting
the water around the La Croix Group can be tricky.
A circumnavigation of Meares Island is a moderately
ambitious agenda through mostly protected and serene
passages with a few currents to watch along the way.
Advanced trips: Kayakers willing to brave a bit of swell
on exposed water can reach Whitesand Cove on Flores
Island, while veterans will enjoy the achievement of reaching
Hesquiat Peninsula. The trip to Cow Bay can be a long
weekend adventure (done as a Coast&Kayak Magazine
trip in late September 2008, pictured here), but a week is
recommended. If Hesquiat Peninsula is too ambitious, Shelter
Inlet is scenic with waterfalls and reef-strewn side channels to
explore. While Hot Springs Cove is a worthwhile destination,
crowds can be an annoyance during peak hours. Consider
Hesquiat Harbour the better goal.
New BC Marine Trail sites: There are no designated sites
for this region yet as the marine trail process works its way
south. The sites shown here are already established, and will
hopefully compose the backbone of this leg of the trail.
30 COAST&KAYAK MAGAZINE SPRING 2011