DELIGHTS|ENTERTAININGCrêpes morph and evolveMargaret DickensonWho doesn’t like crêpes? Whenin doubt over what to serve,you can always turn to crêpes.Although many see them as a special treatfor breakfast (and so they are), they maybe creatively introduced into virtuallyany part of a menu. Crêpes Suzette setaflame with brandy can proudly lay claimto being one of those universally populardesserts.As a child growing up on a farm inNorthern Ontario, crêpes were not partof our family’s culinary vocabulary, nevermind menu. As a matter of fact, neitherwas the word menu. On the farm backthen, we just planned and prepared meals.Mom, however, did make the most extraordinarypancakes, sometimes stuffedwith jam and cottage cheese before beinglovingly baked in a woodstove oven. Thatwas a surprise usually reserved for stormywinter days.My next serious and frequent encounterwith “pancakes” was when myhusband, our wee daughter and I movedto Moscow in the early ’70s. An eveningballet performance at the Bolshoi inevitablymeant feasting on blinis and caviar atintermission. To be honest, I impatientlywaited for the intermissions to come,eager to savour once again the greatestculinary experience Moscow had to offerat that time. These blinis were small yeastraisedpancakes, made with buckwheatflour so they tended to be slightly heavy.Always accompanied by chilled vodka,that remarkable combination has retaineda principal position (in one form or another)in my repertoire of recipes throughoutthe decades.With a move to Brussels, crêpes soontook centre stage. These paper-thin pancakes— subtle in flavour, delicate, tenderand flexible — lend themselves to all sortsof splendid creations. Immediately, myRussian blinis and caviar (always servedwith luscious dollops of sour cream), reemergedon our entertaining menus ascrêpes and caviar either served rolled asan hors d’oeuvre or flat as an appetizer atthe table. Even repeat guests would counton their reappearance and disappointmentreigned if I decided to give the crêpes abreak.Would it be surprising if I said that amove to South Korea meant my crêpesand caviar experienced another mutation?Inspired by the appealing “pouch-like”shape of the popular Asian dish, dimsum, my crêpes evolved into irresistible“sachets.” Filled with sour cream andcaviar, each little sachet was securely tiedclosed with a carefully knotted fresh chivestem. On our return to Canada, Canadiansmoked salmon replaced the caviar.But crêpes have a life far beyondCrêpes Suzette and crêpes and caviar.They marry well with a broad spectrum offlavours, from savoury to sweet: seafood,poultry, escargots, avocado, fruit, custards,ice cream, just to name a few. Such combinationsare easily assembled and withoutexception, always scrumptious. Just think,have you ever not enjoyed a crêpe? Crêpesalso like being pampered — dusted withicing sugar, drizzled with syrup, bathedwith sauces and garnished artisticallywith fresh herbs, berries, nuts or curls ofdark chocolate.Savoury crêpes are the perfect solutionas a main course for a brunch or lightlunch, particularly when served with aside salad. Equally so, sweet crêpes forBocconcini crêpe sandwichesdessert will have those at the table scrapingtheir plates and wishing for more.The beauty of crêpes is that the battercan be prepared in advance, placedin airtight plastic containers and keptrefrigerated for up to two days or frozenfor months without compromising thequality of the final product. I always keepcrêpe batter on hand in my freezer. Oncethawed, batter will appear to have separated,but worry not. Transfer it to a bowland whisk it thoroughly before droppingit onto a preheated (medium-low heat)griddle or skillet.The following recipe is one of my latestcreations. It’s an hors d’oeuvre thatwill leave guests puzzled, surprised andreaching for yet another. You will need alittle patience as you perfect the cookingtechnique; however, it will be well worththe effort. Bon Appétit!Bocconcini Crêpe SandwichesMakes 16 hors d’oeuvres1 tbsp (15 mL) all-purpose flourPinch of salt1/2 cup (125 mL) crêpe batter*1/3 cup (80 mL) chopped smoked turkeythigh (or ham)1 1/4 tsp (6 mL) vinaigrette (a mustardherbvariety)1 1/2 tbsp (23 mL) coarsely chopped freshdill weed2 tbsp (30 mL) bocconcini cheese, chopped1 1/2 tbsp (23 mL) pestoAioli Mayonnaise1 tbsp (15 mL) mayonnaiseLarry Dickenson68WINTER 2012 | JAN-FEB-MAR
ENTERTAINING|DELIGHTS1/5 tsp (pinch) finely chopped fresh garlicGarnish: 16 petit sprigs of fresh dill weed1. Whisk flour and salt into crêpe batter toform a smooth, slightly heavier mixture.Toss chopped smoked turkey (or ham)with vinaigrette and set aside.2. Preheat a medium-size nonstick skilletplaced over medium-low heat. Slowlyand carefully drop four small portions(i.e., about 3/4 tsp or 4 mL) of crêpe batteronto skillet to create coin-size crêpes(diameter: 1 inch or 2.5 cm). Quickly topeach cooking crêpe first with 1/4 tsp(1 mL) of chopped dill weed, then 1/3 tsp(2 mL) of bocconcini and finally 1/4 tsp(1 mL) pesto, keeping all ingredientswithin the perimeter of the tiny crêpe.(Note: Do not turn over.) Promptly transfercrêpes to a plate.3. Repeat procedure (i.e., step 2) to make 4more garnished petit crêpes and transferthem to the plate.4. Drop 8 similar petit portions of crêpemixture onto the skillet. As crêpes set, turnthem over and cook briefly. Remove thecrêpes from the skillet one at a time, andplace each squarely on top of one of thecheese and pesto garnished crêpes to createtiny “crêpe sandwiches”. Promptly transfercrêpe sandwiches to a parchment paperlined tray; cover closely with plastic wrap.5. Repeat formula (Steps 2 to 4) to make 8more crêpe sandwiches.6. Prepare the mayonnaise by whiskingtogether mayonnaise and garlic; set aside.7. Up to 45 minutes before serving, add atouch (i.e., 1/8 tsp or 2 drops) of Aioli Mayonnaiseto top of each crêpe sandwich, topwith 3/4 tsp (4 mL) of chopped smokedturkey (or ham) mixture and garnish witha small sprig of fresh dill weed. Coverloosely with wax paper and refrigerateuntil shortly before serving.* To make 1 1/3 cups (325 mL) of crêpebatter, sift together 1/2 cup (125 mL) ofall purpose flour and 3/4 tsp (4 mL) ofgranulated sugar in a small bowl. In a mediumsize bowl, beat together one egg, oneegg yolk and 1/2 cup (125 mL) of milk.Continue to beat constantly, gradually addhalf the flour mixture to the milk mixture;add another 1/4 cup (60 mL) of milk, theremaining flour mixture and finally 2 tbsp(30 mL) of melted butter. Beat well.Margaret Dickenson is the author of theinternational award winning cookbook,Margaret’s Table — Easy Cooking & InspiringEntertaining, as well as creator andhost of the TV series, Margaret’s Table.See www.margaretstable.ca.Chef’s ParadiseA division of C.A.Paradis Inc.Open Monday-Saturday, 8am - 5pm1314 Bank Street, OttawaChefsParadise.cadiplomat and international canada 69