DELIGHTS|destinationsAustralian odyssey: reefs and rainforestsAn overview of the beach at Port Douglas, a surfing mecca.By Jessie ReynoldsCairns: Days 1-6As a natural spectacle, NorthQueensland is comparable to theRockies in Canada or Death Valleyin the U.S. It offers, in other words, aunique experience. On my 14-day tour, Imade sure to visit Cairns and Port Douglasbefore heading south to Sydney.Cairns (pronounced ‘cannes’) has thetowel and postcard stores of many oceansidetowns, but also offers fine dining,a well-maintained boardwalk and variouspublic parks, including a children’splayground straight out of Tim Burton’simagination.The Hilton Cairns is an ideal base foryour North Queensland visit. It’s close toocean, city and esplanade. The restaurant,Hanuman, provides a great breakfast buffet.(Once we worked through the differencebetween tomato sauce and ketchup— there is none — and the differencebetween a latte and flat white — again,they’re the same thing — I very muchenjoyed my early morning meals.) Bynight, Hanuman transforms into a fineIndian restaurant with dishes of amazingvariety. When it comes to wine, be readyanywhere in Australia for pages of menuslisting only Australian wine by region,and rightly so. (Aside from a slightlyacidic edge, the house wines are generallyquite good.) Hanuman has a winner in anAustralian Sauvignon Blanc, Salitage Treehouse(2008).The Hilton offers fantastic service, bothin terms of dining and front desk andconcierge staff. They are incredibly knowledgeable,friendly and happy to direct youto off-the-beaten-track dining, shoppingand bar options. They also will accommodaterequests, no matter how unusual.Harder pillow? Not a problem. Storeyour bags for a day, three days after youchecked out? Of course. Still, if you wantwater with lunch, or a morning coffee, beready to ask at least two different people88 WINTER 2012 | JAN-FEB-MAR
destinations|DELIGHTSand to wait for between 10 to 20 minutesSpend one day walking the boardwalk.It might take only an hour or so to go fromstart to finish, but stop at some of the restaurants,shops, cafés (which make trulyexcellent coffee) and the numerous gelatoshops, and the day will race by happily.The boardwalk also covers the resortand yacht club area, then past local barsand stores, and the uniquely-shaped (andvery large) public swimming pool. It couldeasily belong to a five-star resort and looksout over the ocean to the mountainsSeveral tours leave from Cairns to theGreat Barrier Reef and nearby rainforests. Irecommend skipping the Ocean Spirit dinnercruise. The boat stays in the harbour,traveling in slow circles, and doesn’t provideviews any better than had it stayedmoored to the pier. Many of the best toursdepart from Port Douglas, an hour northof Cairns.A short drive from downtown Cairns —“hire” a car, take the bus or hail a cab — isthe A.J. Hackett Cairns bungee jumpingcompany. If you aren’t the sort to try it, theyalso operate a gigantic swing that sendshorizontally prone patrons zooming downa huge arc at incredible speeds. If you aremore of an observer, or need some liquidcourage, they also have a well-stocked barand make a mean white Russian.Also close to Cairns is the Kurandacable-car and railway. The company’swebsite (www.ksr.com.au) has extensiveinformation about travel options. Allowat least six hours for both legs of the trip. Iopted for the cable-car going one way andfor the railway on the return. The cablecar takes you to Kuranda via two stops inthe jungle at which you can take a guidedtour, explore on your own, or just finda place to lean and look at the beautifulwaterfalls.Cairns (pronounced ‘cannes’) offers finedining, a well-maintained boardwalkand various public parks.diplomat and international canadaAUSTRALIAPortDouglasKuranda is a somewhat charming —and distinctly friendly. Go through towntowards the amphitheatre and you willpass entrances to very beautiful junglewalks (of varying degrees of difficulty).Coming from eastern Ontario, I’m usedto walking carelessly through forests. InNorth Queensland, it’s safest to operate onthe assumption that everything is poisonous:spiders, caterpillars and plants. Wearclosed-toe shoes whenever you’re leavinga town or city and carry bug spray, even ifyou’re there in the Australian winter.The Kuranda jungle paths take you pastancient trees, plant-filled valleys, streamsgliding over shallow waterfalls and alongriverside pathways. If you take the cablecar into Kuranda and the railway back,you see more than if you use one transportationmethod round trip. The cablecar affords an amazing view of Cairns, theocean and the nearby mountain ranges.The train takes you around heart-poundinglysharp corners beside a mountainsidecliff and through several tunnels.The train station is directly beside themain shopping centre in Cairns that offersanything you might need (towels, localgifts, clothing, boomerangs, etc.). Notethat most of the shops in Cairns closeat 5:00 p.m. and only the night market(featuring mostly trinkets,T-shirts, on-sitemassages, leather hats and overpricedlocal opal jewelry), which is near Cairn’scentral bus station, is open for shoppingafter hours.CairnsqueenslandNew south walesDaintree National ParkSydneyGreat Barrier ReefLocated in Far North Queensland, 2,400 kilometres north of Sydney, Cairns and Port Douglasserve as base camps for visitors to Australia who want to scuba dive in the Great BarrierReef and who want to trek in Daintree National Park, a World Heritage site famous for itslavish biodiversity.It seems that everything closes earlydue to the mass exodus to restaurantsand bars. Cairns, in the downtown core,caters to backpackers and a somewhatyounger demographic. So be ready fornoise if you go into town and leave theboardwalk.If you want a few minutes of solitude,kick off your shoes, walk along the boardwalkto the public pool, dip your feet inthe water and enjoy the breeze coming offthe ocean — and then head to the patioat Villa Romana Trattoria for a flat white.Sitting there in the sun, sipping coffee andwriting my postcards was the perfect wayto say goodbye to Cairns after a wonderfulweek.Port Douglas: Days 7-9Port Douglas is a much more naturalescape than Cairns. It’s the gatewayto the Great Barrier Reef, theDaintree National Park and many othernatural attractions. There are fewer backpackersand less feeling of evening excess.That’s not to say that there isn’t a thrivingnightlife, though. Some of the restaurantsand bars in Port Douglas are the mostpopular in the entire region.No matter where you’re staying downtown,take a morning walk towards FourMile Beach and you’ve basically mappedthe whole town. You can orient yourselfusing the one main street, the marina andFour Mile Beach.89