<strong>the</strong> <strong>border</strong> between France and Spa<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> Catalan Pyrenees is a l<strong>in</strong>e drawnthrough <strong>the</strong>ir identity <strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> convenience<strong>of</strong> o<strong>the</strong>rs. Last year on Sunday 2ndAugust <strong>the</strong>re was a meet<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> amounta<strong>in</strong> village, Port de Salau, on <strong>the</strong>French side between Catalans who havea French passport and Catalans whocarry a Spanish passport to emphasize<strong>the</strong>ir common identity as Catalans whohave been divided aga<strong>in</strong>st <strong>the</strong>ir will bya l<strong>in</strong>e on a map. <strong>The</strong>y carried <strong>the</strong> sameflags and spoke <strong>the</strong> same language. <strong>The</strong><strong>border</strong> between <strong>the</strong>m was, <strong>for</strong> that dayat least, <strong>the</strong>ir only problem.An unsettled landscapeWhen I walked along <strong>the</strong> <strong>border</strong>between <strong>the</strong> Republic <strong>of</strong> Ireland andNor<strong>the</strong>rn Ireland <strong>in</strong> 1986 and retraced<strong>the</strong> journey with a BBC radio producerto make a documentary ten years later,I was never aware <strong>of</strong> walk<strong>in</strong>g through alandscape which was settled and stable,as <strong>the</strong> Catalan Pyrenees seems settledand stable. It was not merely <strong>in</strong> 1986<strong>the</strong> broken bridges and <strong>the</strong> huge uglyroadblocks and <strong>the</strong> presence <strong>of</strong> armedpolice and soldiers; it was not simply <strong>the</strong>sense <strong>of</strong> watchfulness on faces, <strong>of</strong> entirecommunities on <strong>the</strong> look-out or wait<strong>in</strong>g<strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> next ghastly event, or <strong>in</strong> 1996 <strong>the</strong>beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> this.It was someth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> very landscape,a sense <strong>in</strong> Leitrim and Fermanagh, <strong>in</strong>Donegal and Derry, <strong>in</strong> Monaghan andArmagh <strong>of</strong> a few miles on ei<strong>the</strong>r side <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> <strong>border</strong> when <strong>the</strong> world seemed tohave come to a strange end, when itwould have been easy to imag<strong>in</strong>e not a<strong>border</strong> but a vast ocean at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> aroad or a field. <strong>The</strong>re were exceptions tothis, but not many, and it was an abid<strong>in</strong>gfeel<strong>in</strong>g, that this was a landscape, <strong>in</strong> itsvery poverty, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> half dra<strong>in</strong>ed fields,or <strong>the</strong> roads that seemed ready to peterout, or <strong>the</strong> abandoned houses, or <strong>the</strong>menac<strong>in</strong>g sky, that made you th<strong>in</strong>k <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> world´s end. I thought sometimes <strong>of</strong>fold<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> landscape as you can fold amap at <strong>the</strong> very po<strong>in</strong>t where <strong>the</strong> <strong>border</strong>ran <strong>for</strong> three or four miles on ei<strong>the</strong>r sideand allow<strong>in</strong>g someth<strong>in</strong>g useful to rise <strong>in</strong>its place. Because <strong>the</strong> <strong>border</strong> itself wasnot any use, except <strong>for</strong> smugglers andthose <strong>in</strong>tent on kill<strong>in</strong>g and escap<strong>in</strong>g.It was hard not to th<strong>in</strong>k <strong>in</strong> twos, <strong>in</strong> aseries <strong>of</strong> almost neat b<strong>in</strong>ary oppositions.Each town and village <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> North hadsometh<strong>in</strong>g close to its opposite <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>South. Each kill<strong>in</strong>g seemed to have arevenge kill<strong>in</strong>g. It was as though eachperson had a doppelganger and thateach action or statement or religion orpolitical feel<strong>in</strong>g was not <strong>in</strong>dividual, but adance with ano<strong>the</strong>r action or statementor religion or political feel<strong>in</strong>g whichmerely seemed like its opposite but was<strong>in</strong> fact its match.It was easier <strong>the</strong>n to write about twoactions ra<strong>the</strong>r than one. To write aboutSeamus McElwa<strong>in</strong> and John McVitty,<strong>for</strong> example, one a Catholic, <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r aProtestant, one IRA, one UDR, one liv<strong>in</strong>gjust south <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>border</strong>, one just north.Both died violently <strong>of</strong> bullet wounds <strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong> same year 1986 with<strong>in</strong> a few miles <strong>of</strong>each o<strong>the</strong>r, one <strong>in</strong> April, one <strong>in</strong> July. Onedeath may even have been a reprisal<strong>for</strong> <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r. Both had large funerals. Iattended one and I visited <strong>the</strong> family <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r. But mak<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> connectionbetween <strong>the</strong>m was too easy, too neat,<strong>for</strong> every reason, not merely becauseJOURNAL OF CROSS BORDER STUDIES IN IRELAND No.5 25
McVitty, unarmed, was farm<strong>in</strong>g his landwith his twelve year old son when hewas shot and his assailants fled a<strong>cross</strong><strong>the</strong> <strong>border</strong> to <strong>the</strong> Republic.<strong>The</strong>re is ano<strong>the</strong>r duo who seem more<strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g now more than twenty yearslater, who I did not connect <strong>in</strong> my m<strong>in</strong>dor my book with each o<strong>the</strong>r at <strong>the</strong> time,although I grew to know both <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> years after I wrote <strong>the</strong> book and,<strong>in</strong>deed, I grew to like <strong>the</strong>m and admire<strong>the</strong>m. I will dwell on <strong>the</strong>m now, two menfrom <strong>the</strong> <strong>border</strong>, one from each side,one from each religion, both woundedfigures and carry<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>ir wound as adark charm, <strong>the</strong>y were both <strong>the</strong> bestcompany you could meet, and <strong>the</strong>y bothhad learned someth<strong>in</strong>g about hold<strong>in</strong>gyour dignity, stand<strong>in</strong>g alone and learn<strong>in</strong>gto <strong>for</strong>give which we might f<strong>in</strong>d usefulnow <strong>in</strong> our own wounded society south<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>border</strong> and <strong>in</strong>deed, <strong>in</strong> its partner<strong>in</strong> woundedness, <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> north.One is John McGahern, <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r BobBa<strong>in</strong>. One lived close to <strong>the</strong> <strong>border</strong> <strong>in</strong><strong>the</strong> Republic, <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r close to <strong>the</strong><strong>border</strong> <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> North. <strong>The</strong>y were bothmen <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>dependent views, <strong>in</strong> a countryknown, at least to me, <strong>for</strong> its con<strong>for</strong>mity,and men <strong>of</strong> great charm, which is notsometh<strong>in</strong>g you see much <strong>in</strong> Irelandanywhere. <strong>The</strong>y had both <strong>in</strong> differentways been wounded, <strong>the</strong>y had bothbeen <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> news, and <strong>the</strong>y would bothbe po<strong>in</strong>ted out to you or to o<strong>the</strong>rs all<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir lives. But <strong>the</strong>y both carriedmarks <strong>of</strong> this with<strong>in</strong> – what <strong>the</strong>y showedbesides <strong>the</strong> charm, or maybe as part<strong>of</strong> it, was an immense privacy, a deepspirituality, which is not someth<strong>in</strong>g yousee much <strong>in</strong> Ireland ei<strong>the</strong>r, or <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong>Pallars <strong>for</strong> that matter.John McGahern: <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>in</strong>ciple <strong>of</strong>good mannersMcGahern loved <strong>the</strong> <strong>border</strong>. It added an<strong>in</strong>terest to life, he felt. He went once aweek to Enniskillen and he enjoyed <strong>the</strong>idea that once he was over <strong>the</strong> <strong>border</strong>he was <strong>in</strong> a <strong>for</strong>eign country. <strong>The</strong> twoparts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> island, he felt, and I agreedwith him about this, would never cometoge<strong>the</strong>r, because <strong>the</strong>y had grown apart<strong>in</strong> ways that even <strong>the</strong>y <strong>the</strong>mselves didnot understand. So <strong>the</strong>re was no po<strong>in</strong>t<strong>in</strong> talk<strong>in</strong>g about that, he would suggest,and anyone who did was foolish. Whatwas worth talk<strong>in</strong>g about <strong>in</strong>stead, he felt,was how actual life <strong>for</strong> actual peopleon both sides <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>border</strong> might beimproved, and he believed that <strong>the</strong>rewas great room <strong>for</strong> improvement. Hethought that <strong>the</strong>re was a simple pr<strong>in</strong>ciplethat people might apply to <strong>the</strong> politics <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>ir lives, <strong>the</strong> pr<strong>in</strong>ciple he called goodmanners. He believed that if peoplenorth and south had good manners,with <strong>the</strong>ir families, <strong>the</strong>ir friends, <strong>the</strong>irneighbours, <strong>the</strong>n a great deal couldbe achieved.His second novel <strong>The</strong> Dark was banned<strong>in</strong> 1966 by <strong>the</strong> Censorship Board <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>Republic <strong>of</strong> Ireland. When he returnedto Ireland from a year abroad, he wasstill <strong>in</strong> his twenties and <strong>the</strong> author <strong>of</strong>two books which had been published <strong>in</strong>London <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> knowledge, which provedtrue, that <strong>the</strong>y were likely to becomeclassics. McGahern liked England ashe did France, not only <strong>the</strong>ir literatureand people, but he was also grateful toboth countries <strong>for</strong> how <strong>the</strong>y had treatedhim as a young writer, <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong>care and respect he had been <strong>of</strong>fered<strong>in</strong> both London and Paris. In Ireland,26JOURNAL OF CROSS BORDER STUDIES IN IRELAND No.5
- Page 6: A word from the ChairmanChris Gibso
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union and environmental leadership
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the national grid and building anew
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Students at the Magee (Derry/London
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the context of the present economic
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Letterkenny Institute of Technology
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its provision of higher educationco
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Nationalism in the service of abett
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The date is also important as it ma
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that nationalism’s strongest crit
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James Connolly Hannah Sheehy- Sean
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that the British government’s 200
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social and economic justice, andpol
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President McAleese with board membe
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www.crossborder.ieYear Unique Visit
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It was developed in response to aco
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cross-border cooperation at its mos
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might be enabled to expandby exploi
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Winners of the 2009-2010 Universiti
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held in Entebbein Uganda on10-13 No
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education, gender and ICT researcht
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STANDING CONFERENCE ONTEACHER EDUCA
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were seed funded: a conference onpo
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Recovery: PlanningIreland, Northand
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Speakers and researchers at the lau
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Chief Executive of NI-CO, the Deput
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support are provided to minority et
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months to discuss a research and/or
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Astronomer Jay Tate and Professor M
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Left to right, Bruce Robinson, Head
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I want to thank the Centre for Cros
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BOARD MEMBERS AND STAFFDr Chris Gib
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EXTRACTS FROM 2008-2009 FINANCIAL S
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