esorts. We wander though the village,stopping for fresh chinola juice. Therewe meet Juan, a tiny, ancient man with aseamed, leathery face brown as a nut. Juanoffers us horses at 100 pesos a day. That’saround three dollars. At hotels, a ride canbe as little as twenty dollars, so this is ano-brainer. We canter along the beach,surf splashing around us, hair blowing inthe wind. Then up the ubiquitous windingdirt roads, where we pass men on burroswith fresh-cut sugar cane, and women withenormous bowls of fruit on their heads.The author’s sit-on-top brought a whole new realm to her boating experience.new shelter. Our ride-on-top kayaks, sosoothing in calm waters, are squirrellyin the waves, rolling and twisting as wetraverse the surf along the exposed coast.In Puerto Isabella, Columbus built tinyhouses (the foundations remain) for his mento live in while he sailed back to Spain foradditional funds. During his absence, thesailors managed to accomplish what centuriesof effort had failed to achieve: unitingthe warring tribes of the island. The Spanishmen treated the natives so brutally thatthe enemy tribes joined forces, attackedthe settlement, and massacred every one.HORSES ON THE BEACHOver the next few days we make it toPunta Rusia, a stunning coastal area filledwith beaches and coves where a localvillage sits cheek-by-jowl with upscaleWHITEWATERWe also take a quick trip by guagua (localvans that carry passengers and chickensfor $1-2 each—if inclined, you can go allover the country this way) into the interiorof the country for whitewater kayaking inJarabacoa. Here we choose from Class II-IIIrapids or III-IV. We pick the Rio Yaque, thelongest river in the Caribbean, which offersboth challenges and easy stretches. Whenwe confess to only one whitewater kayaktrip in our pasts, they provide a quickrefresher and we’re off. We have a feelingthings would be less casual elsewhere. It’sa great and terrifying time getting throughcute features like ‘Mike Tyson’, a 12-footvertical drop, where we both end uphanging head down in the pool below thewaterfall and have to be rescued by ourguide. We bounce off boulders in ‘TheCemetery’, a stretch of rocks sticking uplike tombstones, and gratefully reach somemeandering curves of calmer water foreasy drifting. Fortunately November isn’tfull rainy season, or we’d really have beensurprised.2004 RENTAL FLEET ON SALE NOW16 www.WaveLength<strong>Magazine</strong>.com Oct/Nov 2004
FloridaCubaSantoDomingoEditor’s Note: In a few of the ‘southern waters’ photos and ads in thisissue, paddlers are not wearing lifejackets. Clearly, warmer water lessensthe risks to some degree. Nevertheless, wearing a lifejacket is the firststep in taking responsibility for one’s own safety and we urge you towear one at all times.DominicanRepublicThis is as far as we make it, but in Jarabacoa, you can also signup for waterfall-climbing (complete with guide, wetsuit, harnessand lines and lessons for hauling yourself up against the currentand rappelling back down), and mountain climbing nearby PicoDuarte, the second highest mountain in the Caribbean. So we’llbe back next year.With service from major airlines—United, USAir, Jet-Blue—the Dominican Republic is just a few hours fromNorth America, and with a smattering of Spanish (or agood phrase book), it can offer the adventure of a lifetime.RESOURCESwww.dominicanrepublic.comwww.thedominicanrepublic.netADVENTURES• Rancho Baiguate: 809-574-4940, kayaking or rafting $95/day,waterfall $65/day, mountain trek $400/person for three days (alsooffers pleasant rooms for $35/night)• Franz Lang Adventures: 809-574-2669, kayaking $65/day, waterfall$45/day, mountain trek $300/person for three days• Colonial Tour Rafting: 809-688-5285, rafting $95/day, waterfall$45/day• Iguana Mama: 809-571-0908, kayaking or rafting $85/day,waterfall $55/day. ❏© Barbara Gail S. Warden is a US freelance writer who is on asailing adventure in the Caribbean with her partner.Enjoy Fall<strong>Paddling</strong>!We have a greatselection of Neckymodels in the mostpopular colors!Oct/Nov 2004 www.WaveLength<strong>Magazine</strong>.com17