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FRIENDS AND BROTHERS-IN-<br />
LAW SIMONE LAVARINI AND<br />
LORENZO FRAQUELLI SET UP<br />
THE FIRST SPAGHETTI HOUSE<br />
ON ONE FLOOR OF A BUILDING<br />
ON GOODGE STREET. NOW, 55<br />
YEARS ON, THE GROUP HAS 11<br />
LONDON RESTAURANTS AND<br />
STILL PLACES FAMILY AT THE<br />
HEART OF ITS BUSINESS,<br />
DISCOVERS LUCY BROWN<br />
BELOW: THE LAVARINI FAMILY<br />
CELEBRATES 55 YEARS OF SPAGHETTI<br />
HOUSE – WITH SOME PASTA<br />
“It’s a very simple dish, Spaghetti Aglio Olio e Peperoncino: garlic, olive oil and chilli<br />
pepper. It’s very simple, very full of flavours, full of taste. I enjoy that. At the moment,<br />
one of my favour<strong>it</strong>e dishes is the sea bream, I really like our sea bream. It’s a whole<br />
fish, and filled w<strong>it</strong>h lemon and herbs. And I guess I always enjoy the Scaloppa – veal<br />
Milanese in breadcrumbs. I always enjoy that, that remains one of my favour<strong>it</strong>es from<br />
childhood.”<br />
It’s the 55th anniversary of Italian restaurant group Spaghetti House, and<br />
managing direc<strong>to</strong>r Luigi Lavarini is talking about his favour<strong>it</strong>e dishes on the menu.<br />
He’s just waved off his father, founder Simone, and sister Stefana, the company’s<br />
marketing direc<strong>to</strong>r, after a celebra<strong>to</strong>ry lunch at their Westfield London restaurant, one<br />
of 11 across the c<strong>it</strong>y. His brother Riccardo is the commercial direc<strong>to</strong>r. Family is<br />
clearly important <strong>to</strong> Spaghetti House, whether <strong>it</strong>’s the Lavarinis, the staff or the<br />
regular cus<strong>to</strong>mers.<br />
Luigi feels <strong>it</strong>’s part of why the company has survived in a difficult market. “We’re<br />
not fashion orientated, we’ve never tried <strong>to</strong> be leaders in any way. We’re just strong,<br />
family-style, trat<strong>to</strong>ria-style, Italian restaurants,” he explains.<br />
The chain was founded by Simone Lavarini and Lorenzo Fraquelli, both northern<br />
Italians, who met in London. A junior partnership in Jermyn Street’s Mocaris<br />
eventually led <strong>to</strong> the friends opening the Bamboo Bar coffee house in Golders Green<br />
in 1953, and in 1955 they launched the first Spaghetti House in Goodge Street.<br />
The restaurant grew from just the ground floor <strong>to</strong> occupying four floors, and other<br />
locations followed. Fraquelli and Lavarini become brothers-in-law when they married<br />
two sisters, so Luigi is following in the footsteps of his uncle and his father. Simone,<br />
now in his eighties, still vis<strong>it</strong>s many of the restaurants every week.<br />
Luigi feels that the staff have played an important role in the restaurant group’s<br />
success. “We retain very good staff, who have remained w<strong>it</strong>h us very often over the<br />
years, so cus<strong>to</strong>mers are used <strong>to</strong> meeting people who they know in our restaurants,”<br />
he says.<br />
In <strong>Mayfair</strong>’s Duke Street Spaghetti House, manager Jose da Silva is a good<br />
example. Da Silva started as a wa<strong>it</strong>er at Spaghetti House 22 years ago and worked<br />
his way up, moving <strong>to</strong> different branches. He recently joined the Duke Street<br />
restaurant from Sicilian Avenue.<br />
Recipe for success<br />
49<br />
business