Destinacija Dunaj - Adria Airways

Adria AirwaysIn-flight MagazineVaš brezplačni izvod - junij, julij | Your personal copy - June, July 2012Destinacija DunajDestination viennaRobert waltlVeliko srce mini teatra /The Big Heart of Mini TeaterKriževniška četrt / Križevniška quarterdestinacija: klet / destination: basementolimpijec marko račič / Olympic Athlete Marko račičGuiseppe tartini / Guiseppe tartiniRazbiti santorinski stereotipi /Breaking the Santorini Stereotypesreka in šaman / River and ShamanPot nekega oreščka / The Journey of a Simple Nut03)

PISMO / LETTERDrage potnice incenjeni potniki!Veseli me, da vas lahko v imenu AdrieAirways pozdravim na našem letalu.V Adrii se zavedamo, da je za uspešno dolgoročnoposlovanje družbe najpomembnejša kakovostnoopravljena storitev. Prizadevamo si, da bi vsakpotnik že ob prihodu na letalo zaznal naše glavnevrednote – skrb za varnost ter prijaznost in udobje.Naš trud za potnike je še večji v manj ugodnihgospodarskih razmerah, ko moramo izrabiti pravvse notranje in zunanje sile, da svojim potnikomzagotovimo kakovostno ponudbo. Pri tem nanekatere dejavnike lahko vplivamo, na drugene moremo. Z letom 2012 smo se na podlagismernic Evropske unije vključili v sistem trgovanjaz emisijami toplogrednih plinov, kar poleg visokecene kerozina posredno vpliva na ceno letalskihvozovnic. Na to žal ne moremo vplivati, vendarnaša prodajna služba nenehno išče nove poti,kako potnikom v obliki najrazličnejših prodajnihakcij omogočiti cenovno ugodna potovanja.Dobrih poslovnih odnosov pa ne gradimo samos potniki, ampak tudi z ostalimi partnerji – takos predstavniki posameznih letalskih družb kottudi letališč, kjer pristajajo naša letala. Adria, ki jeredna članica mednarodnega združenja letalskihprevoznikov Star Alliance in je skupaj z ostalimičlanicami maja praznovala 15-letnico ustanovitvezdruženja, ima že tradicionalno dobrepovezave z družbami združenja. Poleg tega smose začeli dogovarjati še o sodelovanju na komercialnempodročju z letalskimi prevozniki balkanskeregije. Želimo si, da bi vsa naša poslovnaprizadevanja pripomogla k temu, da bi čim večkrajev postalo za vas še lažje dostopnih. Tako kotprevozniki so tudi letališča naši zvesti partnerji.V tokratni izdaji In-Flight Magazina lahko preberete,kako smo s posebnim dogodkom obeležilidvajseti jubilej linije Ljubljana–Zuerich, ko staAdrii v čast poletela tudi švicarska vojaška lovcaF/A-18C Hornet. S ponosom dodajamo, da smodruga tuja letalska družba na svetu, ki ji je bilaposvečena tolikšna pozornost.V kolikor se še niste odločili, kam boste šli letos nadopust, vam to poletje pripravljamo široko izbirozanimivih počitniških ciljev. Z letom na letalihAdrie boste varno, hitro in udobno prispeli do večkot 19 evropskih mest in do številnih počitniškihkrajev v Sredozemlju, kjer vas čaka obilo prijetnihdoživetij. Prav na vseh rednih linijah za vas pripravljamovrsto ugodnih ponudb, ki so vam na voljona naših spletnih straneh www.adria.si.Hvala vam za zaupanje in prijeten let!Klemen Boštjančič,predsednik upraveFotografija: Irena HerakDear passengers,Please allow me to welcome you onboard this aircraft on behalf of Adria Airways.Here at Adria we understand that providing qualityservices is of the utmost importance for the longtermsuccess of a company’s business operations.We strive to make each and every passenger, fromthe moment they step on the plane, aware of ourmain values – assurance of safety, friendliness andcomfort. Our care for passengers is even greaterin less favourable economic circumstances, whenall possible internal and external efforts have to bemade in order to provide quality to our passengers.We have influence over some of the factors inthese matters, but not over all of them. In keepingwith EU guidelines, we have joined the EmissionsTrading System in 2012; in addition to the highprice of kerosene, this also has an indirect effecton the price of airline tickets. This is unfortunatelysomething we have no control over; however, oursales department is constantly seeking new waysof providing our passengers with low-cost traveloptions in the form of special offers.Not only do we build good business relationshipswith our passengers, but also our partners – representativesof individual airlines, and the airportswhere our aircraft land. As a full member of Star Alliance,Adria joined the other members in celebratingthe 15th anniversary of the global airline networkin May. We are known for having traditionallygood connections with other Star Alliance airlines.We have also initiated talks on cooperation in thecommercial field with airlines in the Balkan region.It is our hope that our business efforts will contributeto making as many destinations as possible evenmore accessible to you. Along with the airlines, theairports are also our loyal partners. In this issue ofIn-Flight Magazine, you can read about how wemarked the 20th anniversary of the Ljubljana-Zurichroute with a special event that saw two Swiss F/A-18C Hornet fighter jets fly in honour of Adria. We canproudly say that we are the second foreign airline inthe world to have been granted this privilege.If you have not yet decided where to go on vacationthis year, we are preparing a wide choice ofinteresting summer destinations for you to consider.Safe, fast and comfortable – flying aboard an Adriaaircraft will take you to more than 19 Europeancities and numerous holiday resorts in the Mediterranean,where you can enjoy countless pleasantexperiences. We have a number of offers on everysingle regular route, which are available on ourwebsite www.adria.si.We thank you for your trust and wish you apleasant flight.Klemen Boštjančič,President of the Management Board & CEO5

Adria Airways In-Flight MagazineRevija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine je namenjena potnikomna poletih z Adrio Airways. Adria In-flight Magazine is complimentaryon Adria Airways flights.Izdajatelj/Publisher:Adria Airways, Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d.Adria Airways, The Airline of SloveniaZgornji Brnik 130h, 4210 Brnik – AerodromUredništvo / Editorial: Barbara Mihevc BukovecTel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4541E- mail: barbara.bukovec@adria.siOglaševanje / Advertising: Alenka DvoršakTel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4526E- mail: alenka.dvorsak@adria.siSLOENGOblikovanje in AD / Design and AD: IDEARNA d.o.o.Prevod / Translated by: AmidasAlkemist, prevajalske storitve d.o.o.Lektorica/ Proofreader: Vera SamohodFotoliti / Lithography: SET, d.o.o.Tisk / Printed by: Korotan – Ljubljana, d.o.o.ISSN 1318-078936428692Naslovnica/Cover: Getty Images54Mnenja, izražena v tej publikaciji, so zgolj mnenjaavtorjev ali intervjuvancev in ne odsevajo nujnostališč Adrie Airways. Razmnoževanje brez pisnegadovoljenja je prepovedano. Izdajatelj ne prevzemanikakršne odgovornosti za nenaročeno gradivo.The opinions expressed in this publication arethose of the authors or persons interviewed onlyand do not necessarily reflect the views of AdriaAirways. Reproduction without written permissionis prohibited. The publisher accepts noresponsibility for unsolicited material.Brezplačen izvod / Your personal copy100806

VsebinaContents36.42.adrijin potnik / ADRIA PASSENGERRobert Waltl >>direktor in umetniški vodja Mini teatramanaging and Artistic Director of Mini teatermatjaž potokarmiha frasDESTINACIJAdunajDESTINATION viennaMiško kranjec74. olimpijec marko račič -legendaOlympic Athlete and LegendMarko RačičMarjan žibernaIgor Lapajne80. REka in šaman:Vrnitev na začetekRiver and Shaman:A Return to the Beginningmarko frelih Charles Brewer Carías,Rafael Santana, Arhiv Fundacije Cisneros48.WACHAU, prestolnicaromantikeWachau, the Home of Romancesaša suhadolnik54.matjaž potokar miha fras62.LjubljanaVELIKO SRCE MINI TEATRAThe Big Heart of Mini TeaterLjubljanske znamenitosti –Križevniška četrtThe Sights of Ljubljana –Križevniška Quartermatjaž potokarmiha fras68.Maja cimerman matej sitardestinacija: kletDESTINATION: BASEMENT86. violinist giuseppe tartini -Ponos PiranaThe Violinist Giuseppe Tartini -The Pride of Piran/Piranometoda kokoleigor lapajne92. Razbiti santorinski stereotipiV iskanju »Atlantide«Breaking the SantoriniStereotypesOn the Search for “Atlantis”Jože balas100. Pot nekega oreščkaPravična trgovina v Burkini FasoThe Journey of a Simple NutFair Trade in Burkina FasoNoemie de pas tit brecelj7

Novosti - newspoletni vozni red25. marca je stopil v veljavo poletni vozni red. AdriaAirways povezuje slovensko prestolnico z več kot170 rednimi leti tedensko z 18 destinacijami. Adrijinaletala vas popeljejo v Amsterdam, Barcelono, Beograd,Bruselj, Carigrad, na Dunaj, v Frankfurt, København,London, Manchester, Moskvo, Muenchen, Podgorico,Prištino, Sarajevo, Skopje, Zuerich in v Tirano. Kotčlanica združenja letalskih prevoznikov Star Allianceomogoča Adria Airways zelo dobre in cenovnougodne povezave z destinacijami po vsem svetu.Vsakodnevno opravi združenje Star Alliance kar 20.500letov na 1.293 letališč v 190 državah.V poletni sezoni, ki jih opravlja Adria Airways vsodelovanju s turističnimi agencijami, povezuje sčarterskimi leti Ljubljano s številnimi počitniškimidestinacijami, predvsem v Sredozemlju. Iz Ljubljaneleti tedensko na naslednja letališča: v Grčijo v Heraklion,na Rodos, Kos, Santorini, Karpatos, Kefalonijo,Zakintos, Skiatos, Samos, Hios, Lezbos, Lefkas/Prevezain v Kavalo. Leti tudi na Menorco in v Palmo de Mallorcov Španiji, na Malto in v Antalyo v Turčiji. Sharmel Sheikh in Hurgada v Egiptu sta edini čarterski destinaciji,kamor leti slovenski letalski prevoznik celo leto.Redni poleti med Prištino in nemškima mestomaFrankfurt in Muenchen so v Adrijinem voznem reduže od decembra 2010, od začetka letošnjega letadalje pa Adrijina letala povezujejo Prištino tudi zitalijansko Verono.Fotografija: Marko VavpotičPoslovni salon– izboljšana storitev za potnike, ki potujejov poslovnem razreduAdrijini potniki so na ljubljanskem letališču ponovem deležni več udobja, saj začenjajo odslej svojapotovanja v prenovljenem in razširjenem poslovnemsalonu. Aerodrom Ljubljana se je odločil za prenovo,saj želi dvigniti zavedanje, da je storitveno podjetje,kjer je skrb za potnike na prvem mestu. Ker je to tudinaše vodilo že vrsto let, nam je v veliko zadovoljstvo,da se začne za potnika poslovnega razreda celovitopotovanje z Adrio Airways tako prijetno. Prenovljeniinterjer poslovnega salona na Letališču Jožeta PučnikaLjubljana je bil zasnovan v Gorenje design studiu vSummer FlightScheduleThe 2012 summer flight schedule applies as of 25 March.Adria Airways operates over 170 scheduled flights everyweek, linking the Slovenian capital to 18 destinations. Adriaaeroplanes will fly you to Amsterdam, Barcelona, Belgrade,Brussels, Copenhagen, Frankfurt, Istanbul, London, Manchester,Moscow, Munich, Podgorica, Pristina, Sarajevo,Skopje, Tirana, Vienna and Zurich. As a member of StarAlliance, the association of air carriers, Adria Airways is ableto offer excellent connections to destinations around theworld at affordable prices. Star Alliance members operate20,500 flights daily to 1,293 airports in 190 countries.During the summer season, Adria Airways works with travelagencies to offer chartered flights connecting Ljubljanato a number of holiday destinations, particularly those inthe Mediterranean. Adria operates weekly flights to theseairports in Greece: Heraklion, Rodos, Kos, Santorini, Karpathos,Kefalonia, Zakynthos, Skiathos, Samos, Chios, Lesbos,Lefkas/Preveza and Kavala. Chartered flights to Menorcaand Palma de Mallorca in Spain, to Malta and to Antalya inTurkey are also available. Sharm el Sheikh and Hurgada inEgypt are the only two destinations served by Adria Airwayschartered flights all year round.Scheduled Pristina-Frankfurt and Pristina-Munich flightshave been part of the Adria schedule since December 2010;as of the beginning of this year, the airline also operatesscheduled flights between Pristina and Verona in Italy.sodelovanju z arhitekturnim birojem Hišeriše arhitektura.Z rešitvijo, ki so jo predlagali, so želeli potnikomvrniti izgubljeni čas letališke poti v obliki prijetneizkušnje, ki se v interjerju odraža v kombinaciji udobjadnevne sobe in sodobne pisarne v malem.Business Lounge– Improved Service for Business ClassPassengersThe Adria business class passengers can enjoy morecomfort in the renovated and enlarged business loungeat the Ljubljana airport as they await their flight. AerodromLjubljana organised the renovation in order to raiseawareness of the company as a service oriented companythat always puts passengers first. Since this has also beenour guiding principle for many years, it is a great pleasureto know that business class passengers can now starttheir journey with Adria Airways in such a comfortablemanner. The renovated interior of the business loungeat the Jože Pučnik Airport Ljubljana was designed by theGorenje design studio in collaboration with the architecturebureau Hišeriše arhitektura. Their proposed solutionwas intended to return passengers to a lost time of airlinetravel as an enjoyable experience, reflected in the interiordesigned as a combination of a comfortable living roomand modern office.Letalski prevoznikiv tranziciji,Istanbul19. in 20. aprila je v Istanbulu potekal vrh »Letalskiprevozniki v tranziciji« (Airlines in Transition), ki sose ga udeležili vodilni predstavniki letalskih družbs celega sveta. Dogodek je organiziralo združenjeCAPA – Centre for Aviation s sedežem v Sydneyu. G.Klemen Boštjančič, predsednik uprave Adrie Airways,je sodeloval kot vabljeni govorec pri okrogli mizi natemo o prihodnosti letalske industrije, ki se soočas strukturno nestabilnostjo in spremembami (TheFuture Shape of an Industry Undergoing StructuralInstability and Change). Med drugim so govorili ovplivu nizkostroškovnih letalskih prevoznikov naprofitabilnost mrežnih letalskih prevoznikov tervplivu lastniških struktur na industrijo.Airlines inTransition, IstanbulThe Airlines in Transition summit was held inIstanbul on 19 and 20 April, attended by keyrepresentatives of the world’s air carriers. The eventwas organised by CAPA – Centre for Aviation, basedin Sydney. Adria Airways CEO Klemen Boštjančičattended the summit as the guest speaker at around table discussion entitled “The Future Shapeof an Industry Undergoing Structural Instabilityand Change”. The subjects of discussion includedthe influence of low-cost airlines on the profitabilityof network airlines and the effect of ownershipstructures on the industry.The key representatives also touched on othercurrent issues such as the future of airline associationsand non-member airlines, the evolutionof the low-cost airline model and opportunitiesfor generating profit.8

AKTUALNO - LATEST OFFERSUjemi ugoden polet ...Na vseh Adrijinih rednih linijah imamo ugodne ponudbe po načelu»Kupi prej, potuj ceneje«. Da bi našo ponudbo še bolj približali vašimpotrebam, imamo na voljo znižane cene potovanj tudi med tednom.Adria Airways Special Offers!Special offers are available on all of Adria’s scheduled services on a“buy early, fly for less” basis. To make our services even more attractive,reduced fares are available for travel during the week.Adrijine E-noviceVabimo vas, da obiščete naše spletne strani www.adria.si in se prijavitena Adrijine E-novice. S tem boste enkrat mesečno obveščeni o našihnovostih in posebnih ponudbah. E-novice bodo za vas vir dragocenihinformacij in idej pri načrtovanju potovanja ali počitnic.Naj bo obveščenost vaša prednost!Adria E-newsWhy not visit our website www.adria.si and subscribe to Adria’s E-newsservice? Once a month you will receive updates on new services and specialoffers – straight to your inbox! This means that E-news will be a valuablesource of information and ideas when you are planning a journey or holiday.Let information be your advantage!LAST MINUTE ponudbaAdrie AirwaysAli vedno prelistate dnevno časopisje? Še posebej bodite pozornimed prebiranjem Dela in Nedela! Posebna koda, vpeta v vsebino časnikov,vam na spletni strani www.adria.si omogoča izredno ugodennakup vozovnice za določeno destinacijo. Akcijska cena za posamezenlet traja tri dni, oglaševane destinacije pa se dnevno spreminjajo.Adria AirwaysLAST MINUTE OffersDo you always look through the daily newspapers? From now on, payspecial attention when you read Delo and Nedelo! There is a special codehidden in the newspaper content that will allow you to book tickets for aparticular destination at a lower price on www.adria.si. The special price foran individual flight is valid for three days and the destinations advertisedchange daily.V London že za 119 EUR119 EUR je cena za povratno letalsko vozovnico na direktnih letih AdrieAirways z že vključenimi pristojbinami in brez stroška rezervacije prekohttp://www.adria.si/. Povračila za že kupljeno vozovnico ni, spremembarezervacije pa je možna z doplačilom 60 EUR. Akcija velja dozapolnitve prostih mest.Fly to London for only €119For just €119, you can buy a return ticket for direct Adria Airways flightsat http://www.adria.si/. With the exception of booking fees, all taxes areincluded in the price. Tickets cannot be refunded. Bookings can be changedsubject to a €60 surcharge. The offer is valid until supplies last.Pridružite se nam na FacebookuJoin us on Facebookhttp://www.facebook.com/AdriaAirwaysSledite nam na TwitterjuFollow us on Twitterhttp://twitter.com/adria_airways© Corbis/IPAK ImagesLjubljana -beogradodfrom158 EURLjubljana -podgoricaodfrom189 EURSARAJEVO -LJUBLJANA -frankfurtodfromPRISTINA -ljubljana -COPENHAGENod199 EUR from 249 EURVse navedene cene veljajo za povratna potovanja na Adrijinih poletih in vključujejo vse ostale dajatve razen stroška rezervacije. Število ponujenih sedežev po tej ceni je omejeno. Ponudba velja v času trajanja veljavnostiIn-flight Magazina. The prices listed above are for Adria Airways return flights and include all taxes and fees except booking fees. There is a limited number of seats avaliable at this price; the offer is valid for the time the In-FlightMagazine is valid or longer.9

LEDENO SADNA OSVEŽITEVwww.fructal.siFructal d.d., Tovarniška cesta 7, 5270 Ajdovščina

ADRIA AIRWAYSVse, kar vas zanima o letalstvuV tokratni številki odgovarjakapitan Iztok Kavčič na zanimivovprašanje, kaj se zgodi zletalom, če vanj med letomudari strela.Fotografija: Rok BeličSpoštovani potniki,verjetno se še spomnite, kako neprijetne so senam zdele nevihte, ko smo bili še otroci. Otroškistrah je bil še večji, ko sta nevihtne oblakespremljala strela in grom. Z odraščanjem smose na strelo, ta naravni pojav, postopomanavajali in ga sprejeli takega, kot je, čepravga v celoti še nismo razumeli. Ob nevihtah zgrmenjem in strelami so nas starši mirili z besedami,da je strela zelo daleč. Šteli smo sekundemed bliskom, ki jo je ustvarila strela, in samimgromom, saj je vsaka sekunda med udaromstrele in gromom pomenila, kar seveda velja šedanes, da je nevihta oddaljena od nas približno300 metrov . Z vsako sekundo je bila nevarnostbolj oddaljena od nas.Glede razlage in razumevanja pojava strele situdi znanstveniki niso edini. Obstaja več teorij,ki pa so laiku precej nerazumljive. Znano je, dapride pri pojavu strele do izenačevanja električnenapetosti med oblakom in zemljo, lahkopa tudi med samimi oblaki. Povedano nekolikopoenostavljeno, se v nevihtnem oblaku zaradigibanj zračnih plasti, vodnih kapljic in drobnihdelcev ustvarijo električne napetostne razlike.Ko se ustvarijo pogoji – pride namreč dovelikih razlik v napetosti in prevodnost zrakapostane zadovoljiva –, se napetost izenači vobliki strele.Z nevihtnimi oblaki in strelami se srečujemotudi v letalstvu. Nevihtni oblaki povzročajoturbulenco, točo in strele. Da bi se izognilinevihtnim oblakom, so letala opremljena zvremenskimi radarji, ki nam nazorno pokažejoobliko, velikost in pozicijo teh oblakov. Samavelikost oziroma oblika nevihtnega oblaka sicerni pogoj za udar strele, ampak, kot že omenjeno,je pogoj določena razlika v električninapetosti v oblaku. Letalo ustvari v letu medoblakom in zemljo oziroma med samimi oblakizaradi svoje prevodne kovinske konstrukcijepogoje za izenačevanje napetostne razlike, karpa je vzrok, da pride občasno do udara streletudi v letalo.Podobno kot avto je tudi letalo Faradayevakletka, torej omejen prostor, ki razločuje električnopolje. Pri udaru strele v letalo so potnikipopolnoma varni. Seveda pa je ta naravnipojav zelo neprijeten za potnike zaradi samegapoka in bliska, kar je še posebej opazno prinočnih letih. Letalo po udaru strele neoviranonadaljuje let. Kljub temu da so konstrukcija letalain elektronske naprave primerno testiranein zaščitene v primeru takšnih okoliščin, letalopo vsakem zabeleženem udaru strele pregledapo pristanku tehnična ekipa. Včasih se zgodi,da je vstop oziroma izstop strele viden kotpovršinska ožganina, na konstrukciji letala pani posledic.Sam sem v svoji letalski karieri že trikrat doživeludar strele med letom, vsakič brez posebnosti,če izključim, da sta bila pok in blisk tudi zametisti trenutek neprijetno presenečenje. Z letalomin elektronskimi napravami se ni zgodilonič nenavadnega; vselej smo nadaljevali let inga varno zaključili z običajnim pristankom.Dragi potniki, kljub temu da smo že poštenozakorakali v čas poletnih vročinskih neviht, kijih običajno spremljajo tudi udarci strele, soskrbi popolnoma odveč, saj se posadka s pomočjoinštrumentov, ki so ji na voljo, nevihtnimoblakom izogiba, sama oblika letala pa poskrbiza to, da se vam ne bo prav nič zgodilo. Mordabo ostala v nizu lepih in vznemirljivih doživetijz vaših počitnic le zanimiva zgodba.Prijetno poletje vam želim!Kaj pa vas zanima o letalstvu? Vaša vprašanjapričakujemo na elektronskem naslovuinflightmagazine@adria.si.14

Everything You Wanted to Know About AviationIn this issue, CaptainIztok Kavčič answersthe interestingquestion of whathappens to anaeroplane if it isstruck by lightningmid-flight.Dear passengers,You probably still remember how anxious we wereas children when the weather was stormy. The fearwas even worse when storm clouds brought withthem thunder and lightning. As we got older, wegradually got used to these natural phenomenaand accepted them for what they are, even thoughwe still did not understand them fully. During thunderstorms,our parents would try to reassure us byexplaining that the lightning bolts are very far away.We would count the seconds between each bolt oflightning and rumble of thunder; with every secondthat passed between the sight of lightning and thesound of thunder, another 300m were added to thedistance between us and the storm. Obviously, thisrule still holds today. With every second that passed,the danger was further away from us.When it comes to explaining and understanding thephenomenon of lightning, even scientists have notyet reached a unanimous conclusion. There are severalcompeting theories, none of which are entirelycomprehensible to a layperson. What we do know isthat when lightning occurs, there is an equalisationof voltage between the cloud and the ground orjust between several clouds. Simply put, the movementof air layers, water drops and tiny particlesthat occurs inside a storm cloud creates changes involtage. In the right conditions, when there is a largeenough discrepancy in voltage and the air reaches asufficient level of conductivity, the voltage equalisesin the form of lightning.Storm clouds and lightning bolts are something wealso encounter in aviation. Storm clouds cause turbulence,hail and lightning. In order to avoid stormclouds, every aeroplane is equipped with weatherradar that clearly shows the shape, size and positionof such clouds. The size and shape of a storm clouddoes not affect the likelihood of a lightning strike;what matters is the discrepancy in voltage insidethe cloud. Flying between a cloud and the ground orbetween clouds, the conductive metal constructionof an aeroplane creates the right conditions for voltageequalisation, which is the reason why lightingsometimes strikes an aeroplane.Similarly to a car, an aeroplane also functions asa Faraday cage, i.e. an enclosed space that blocksout external electric fields. When lightning strikesan aeroplane, the passengers inside are perfectlysafe. Obviously this natural phenomenon canbe highly unpleasant due to the noise and flash,which is particularly noticeable on night flights. Anaeroplane that has been struck by lightning willcontinue its flight unimpeded. Although the constructionand electronic devices of aeroplanes aretested and protected against these circumstances,any aeroplane that has been struck by lightningwill be additionally examined by a technicalteam upon landing. The entrance or exit point ofthe lightning bolt can sometimes be visible as ascorched area on the surface, but the aeroplaneconstruction will remain undamaged.In the course of my career in aviation, I havepersonally experienced three mid-flight lightningstrikes; none of them had any special consequences,excluding the momentary unpleasant surprise ofthe noise and flash. Nothing out of the ordinaryhappened to the aeroplane or its electronic devices;we were able to continue the flight safely and end itwith a normal landing.Dear passengers, even though we are well into theperiod of summer heat storms that are usually accompaniedby lightning strikes, there is no cause forconcern. Using the dedicated weather instruments,the flight crew will avoid storm clouds as much aspossible, and the build of the aeroplane will ensurethat you remain absolutely safe throughout theflight. At most, you will be left with another interestingstory to add to the memorable and excitingadventures from your vacation.I wish you a pleasant summer!What would you like to know about aviation?Send us your questions to the email addressinflightmagazine@adria.si.15

ADRIA AIRWAYSfotografija: ©Schweizer Luftwaffe20 let poletovmed Ljubljano in Zuerichom16

Od leve proti desni: mag. Alen Mlekuž, direktor korporativnega komuniciranja, Adria in Zvone Petek, predstavnik Adrie v Švici s članicama kabinskega osebja.From left to right: Alen Mlekuž, Msc, Director Corporate Communications, Adria and Zvone Petek, Adria Representative and the Head of the Zurich Office accompanied by cabin crew members20 let letalske linije niti ni tako dolga doba, če pa joponazorimo s številkami, se šele pokaže, kaj pomeni leta inleta redno leteti na določeno destinacijo: od leta 1992do danes je Adria opravila med obema krajema skoraj11.000 letov, kar je 22.000 pristankov, in prepeljalanekaj manj kot 750.000 potnikov.Prvi let Ljubljana–Zuerich je bil 29. marca1992 in to leto jih je Adria opravilaše 150. Za primerjavo: v letu 2011 soAdrijina letala odletela na tej relacijipreko 1.000 letov.Prva leta smo leteli petkrat tedensko, leta1998 pa smo uvedli že dva leta na dan.Tretji let dnevno je opravljal naš takratniveliki konkurent Swissair.Po prelomnem letu za letalstvo 2001se je Adrijin promet prepolovil, pa tudinovo nastali Swiss ni dosegel takšnihrezultatov kot poprej Swissair; prometna liniji je rasel počasi. Ko se je Swisspridružil Lufthansinemu koncernu, jeopustil letenje v Ljubljano; Adria je pohitelas sklenitvijo pogodbe za letenjepod skupno oznako in uvedla še tretji– opoldanski let.Leta 2007 smo prvič presegli številko50.000 potnikov na leto in jih lani prepeljaliže 74.000. Letos pričakujemo natej liniji 80.000 potnikov. Linija, ki je medAdrijinimi destinacijami dolgo životarilain bila po številu potnikov in finančnihrezultatih šele na 15. mestu, sodi danesmed tri naše najboljše.Sprva so na tej linji leteli predvsempotniki, ki so preko Ljubljane potovalina Balkan, zlasti v Prištino in Skopje, patudi v Tirano in Sarajevo. Danes je njihovdelež seveda še vedno pomemben,vendar je padel pod 20 %. Skoraj 50 %potnikov je tako imenovanih »pointto point« potnikov, zahvaljujoč vednoboljšim gospodarskim stikom med Švicoin Slovenijo, pa tudi zato, ker imamona liniji potnike iz avstrijske Koroške,hrvaške Istre in Kvarnerja ter iz Furlanije.Pozabiti ne smemo tudi na turizem:vsak sedmi potnik leti v Slovenijo kotturist, pa tudi Slovenci radi poletijo napočitnice preko Zuericha, še posebejz našimi Star Alliance partnerji, kot soSwiss, Singapore Airlines, Thai ...Adrijina linija Ljubljana–Zuerich pa nizgolj letalska povezava med dvemamestoma, ampak je tudi pomembnavez med dvema državama: že takoj poosamosvojitvi je Adrijino predstavništvo,ki ima še danes sedež v centru Zuericha,ponudilo svoje prostore za konzularnedejavnosti mlade države. Kasneje je večkot 10 let v Adrijini »slovenski hiši« vZuerichu poslovalo turistično predstavništvoSlovenije, od leta 2010 pa je vAdrijinem predstavništvu na Loewenstrassetudi Konzulat Republike Slovenije;Adrijin predstavnik Zvone Petek, ki že17 let vodi predstavništvo v Zürichu, paje častni konzul Republike Slovenije.Ob 20-letnici linije je predstavništvoAdrie marca organiziralo v Zuerichuodmevno prireditev, ki so se je udeležilištevilni ugledni gostje iz Slovenijein Švice, okronal pa jo je panoramskipolet v švicarske Alpe, ki sta ga spremljaladva lovca švicarskega vojaškegaletalstva – FA 18. To je bil zgodovinskidogodek tudi zato, ker je bil Adrijinpilot Iztok Kavčič kot prvi tuji pilotdeležen te časti.17

ADRIA AIRWAYSOd leve proti desni/ from left to right: Klemen Boštjančič/predsednik uprave Adrie/ President of the ManagementBoard & CEO;Peter Grünig/ Letališče Zuerich/ Zurich Airport. Fotografija: Natalie Zalanfotografija: M. Klemenc18

Fotografija: Natalie Zalan20 Years ofLjubljana-Zurich FlightsPerhaps 20 years of operating a regular connection is nota very long period, but when it is expressed in numbers, itbecomes easier to understand what it really means to flybetween the same two destinations for years and years:from 1992 until today, Adria has operated almost11,000 flights, which means 22,000 landings. Close to750,000 passengers were transported between thetwo destinations.Fotografija: Natalie ZalanThe first Ljubljana-Zurich flight took placeon 29 March 1992 and was followed by afurther 150 Adria flights that year. By comparison:in 2011 alone, Adria aeroplanesmade over 1000 flights along this route.Initially we offered just five flights a weekuntil two daily flights were introduced in1998. The third daily flight was operatedby Swissair, one of Adria’s major competitorsat that time.2001 was a turning point for aviation;Adria saw its traffic cut in half and thenewly-established Swiss airline failed tomatch the results achieved by Swissair,its predecessor. Traffic along theLjubljana-Zurich connection increasedonly gradually. Once Swiss joined theLufthansa Group and dropped its flightsto Ljubljana, Adria quickly concluded acode-share agreement and introduced athird, midday flight.2007 was the first time that we carriedover 50,000 passengers in a year, whilelast year saw as many as 74,000 passengersusing this connection. In 2012, weexpect 80,000. The Ljubljana-Zurich line,long one of the less popular Adria flightsand ranking only 15th by the number ofpassengers and financial results, is todayone of the top three best Adria lines.Initially, the connection was usedmainly by passengers travelling throughLjubljana onward to destinations inthe Balkans, particularly to Pristina andSkopje, as well as Tirana and Sarajevo.We still see a significant number of suchpassengers, although their share hasdropped below 20%. Close to 50% ofpassengers are point to point passengers;this is thanks to the ever improvingeconomic relations between Switzerlandand Slovenia, but also because the connectionis often used by passengers fromCarinthia in Austria, Istra and Kvarnerin Croatia and the Friuli region. Tourismis also an important factor. One out ofevery seven passengers flies to Sloveniaas a tourist and Slovenians like to go onvacation via Zurich, especially flying withour Star Alliance partners such as Swiss,Singapore Airlines, Thai, etc.Adria’s Ljubljana-Zurich line is more thanjust a flight connection between twocities; it also represents an important bondbetween two countries. Immediately afterSlovenia’s declaration of independence,the Adria office in Switzerland, even todaylocated in the very heart of Zurich, offeredits premises to be used for consular activitiesof the newly independent country.Later, Adria’s “Slovenian building” in Zurichhosted the Slovenian tourism office formore than a decade, and since 2010, theAdria office at Loewenstrasse has alsohoused the Consulate of the Republic ofSlovenia. Mr. Zvone Petek, Adria representativeand head of the Zurich office for thelast 17 years, also serves as the honoraryconsul of Slovenia.To celebrate the 20th anniversary of theLjubljana-Zurich line, the Adria officein Zurich organised a highly publicisedevent in March that was attended by anumber of prominent guests from Sloveniaand Switzerland. The highlight of theevent was a panoramic flight over theSwiss Alps in the company of two FA 18fighter jets from the Swiss air force. Adriapilot Iztok Kavčič was the first foreign pilotto receive this honour, making this a trulyhistorical event in every respect.19

ADRIA AIRWAYSIntervju/Interview with Mateja KrpačBESEDILO/text: barbara m. bukovecGospa Mateja Krpač, doma iz Ljubljane, že enajstlet živi in dela v Zuerichu. Razpeta med svojimdomačim krajem in Švico, ostaja ena Adrijinihnajzvestejših potnic na liniji Ljubljana–Zuerich.V dvajsetih letih obstoja zračne povezavemed obema mestoma je že več kot 400-kratletela na tej progi. Prijetna sogovornicaje, strpna potnica in dobra poznavalkaAdrijine flote.Fotografija: osebni arhivGospa Krpač, verjetno se v trenutku,ko vstopite v katero od Adrijinih letal,počutite povsem domače?Po tolikih letih v Adrijinih letalih je to čisto res.Seveda občasno letim tudi na druge destinacijez drugimi letalskimi družbami, vendar senikjer ne morem tako sprostiti kot na Adrijinihpoletih. Pravzaprav se samo na Adrii počutimres varno. Morda zato, ker jo najbolj poznam,po imenih in na pogled pa poznam večinopilotov in kabinskega osebja. Pa tudi zato,ker sem prepričana, da Adria lepo skrbi zasvoja letala, saj ima ne nazadnje na ljubljanskemletališču edini pooblaščeni center zavzdrževanje CRJ letal v Evropi. In seveda zato,ker je to »naša«, slovenska družba.Je res, da že po zvoku motorja ločite,katero letalo vas bo tokrat popeljalo?Mislim, da tudi večina voznikov pozna zvoksvojega osebnega vozila. Ko se toliko let rednovoziš z letali, postaneš pozoren tudi na njihovzvok. Vedno se vnaprej pozanimam, s katerimletalom bom letela, saj mi je prav po zvokumotorja kakšno letalo ljubše. Se mi je pa tudiže zgodilo, da sem se kakšnega letala izogibala,ker se mi je dozdevalo, da mi zvok njegovegamotorja ne ugaja. Ko pa sem bila čez čas primoranaleteti prav z njim, sem z zadovoljstvomopazila, da je tisti »čudni« zvok izginil.Se morda spomnite kakšnega še posebejzanimivega trenutka nad oblaki?Moram reči, da se mi je v vseh teh letih letenjanasmehnila sreča, da sem lahko letela v kokpitu.To je bilo nepozabno doživetje.A bi nam lahko glede na to, da precej svojegačasa preživite na poti, svetovali, kajpogrešate v naši ponudbi? Morda bi lahkovam in vsem ostalim potnikom te poti šeolajšali.Vedno se najde še kaj, kar bi se dalo izboljšati,vendar bi težko rekla, da kaj zares pogrešam. Mordasem manj zahtevna kot drugi, vendar mi šenikoli ni nič manjkalo. Malo za ’hec’ bi lahko rekla,da mi Adria ob 3-urni zamudi iz Zuericha v Ljubljanoponudi celo 3-urno zamudo ob povratku vZuerich, tako da lahko doma v Sloveniji preživimprav toliko časa, kot nameravam. So pa zamude vzadnjih časih, vsaj na moji relaciji, prava redkost.Sicer pa se zame začne Adrijina ponudba že znakupom letalske karte, ki ga vedno opravimpreko Adrijinega predstavništva v Zuerichu.Veliko stvari je, ki pri načrtovanju leta zahtevajoosebni kontakt in jih preko spleta ni mogočeurediti. Pri tem se želim res iskreno zahvalitigospodu Zvonetu Petku in njegovi ekipi za izjemenservis v vseh teh letih, kar živim v Zuerichu.Velikokrat me celo pokličejo in opozorijo, daje pred vrati kakšen praznik, jaz pa še nimamrezervirane vozovnice ...20

Originally from Ljubljana, Ms. MatejaKrpač has been living and working inZurich for the last eleven years. Tornbetween her home town and Switzerland,she remains one of Adria’s most loyalpassengers on the Ljubljana-Zurichline. In the twenty years that Adria hasoperated a regular connection betweenthe two cities, she has flown on thisline over 400 times. Ms. Krpač is a pleasantconversationalist, a patient passenger andan expert on the Adria fleet.Ms. Krpač, the moment you board any Adriaaeroplane, you probably feel right at home,is that correct?After so many years spent on Adria aeroplanesthat’s completely true.Of course I sometimes fly to other destinations withother airlines, but I never feel as relaxed as I do onAdria flights. It’s only on Adria aeroplanes that I feelcompletely safe. Perhaps it’s because I’m so familiarwith them; I know most of the pilots and cabincrew by name and by sight, and I am certain thatAdria takes excellent care of its aeroplanes. I knowthat the Adria centre at the Ljubljana airport is theonly authorised centre for the maintenance of CRJaeroplanes in Europe. And it’s also because Adria is“our” company, a Slovenian company.Is it true that you can tell just from the enginenoise which aeroplane you are about to fly on?I think that most drivers would recognise thesound of their car. After so many years of regularflying,you start to pay more attention to theaeroplane sounds. I always check in advancewhat type of aeroplane I’ll be flying on, becauseI do prefer the engine noise of some aeroplanesto others. It has happened before that I avoideda certain aeroplane, because I had convincedmyself that I didn’t like the sound of its engine.But after a while, I was forced to fly on that veryaeroplane, and I was happy to realise that the“strange noise” was gone.Are there any particularly interesting momentsabove the clouds that you can recall?Yes, after so many years of flying, I was fortunateenough to fly in the cockpit once. That was anexperience that I'll never forget.Considering how much of your time is spenttravelling, is there anything that you havemissed within our offer? Something thatwould make your travels easier?Well, there is always something that could beimproved, but it would be difficult for me to saythat I really miss anything in particular. Perhaps I’mless demanding than other people, but I’ve nevermissed anything. On a lighter note, I could say thatafter a 3-hour delay on the Zurich-Ljubljana flight,Adria even offers a 3-hour delay on the return toZurich, giving me the opportunity to spend exactlyas much time at home in Slovenia as I’d planned.But in recent years, delays have been extremelyrare, at least on my line.As far as I’m concerned, Adria’s offer starts withthe purchase of flight tickets, which I always do atthe Adria office in Zurich. When planning a flight,there are so many things that call for personalcontact and simply can’t be done online. I’d like totake this opportunity to express my gratitude to Mr.Zvone Petek and his team for the excellent servicethroughout the years that I’ve lived in Zurich. Theyoften even call me to warn me that a holiday iscoming up and that I haven’t booked a ticket yet…TRGOVINANAD OBLAKIADRIASKYSHOP.si

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREFotografija: Matevž PaternosterLjubljana, Mestni muzej LjubljanaVeč glav več vePomembne glave na ogled vMestnem muzeju LjubljanaNa kaj pomislite, ko je govora o pomembnih glavah? Na državnikein župane, vladarje in plemiče, umetnike in filozofe? Vsi našteti soskozi stoletja oblikovali in vplivali na življenje v Ljubljani. Očitno sobili tako pomembni, da so znani in neznani kiparji ohranili njihovepodobe v lesu, glini, marmorju in bronu vse do danes. Tiste portretepomembnežev, ki jih hrani Mestni muzej Ljubljana, si je sedajmogoče ogledati na razstavi Več glav … iz kiparske zbirke Mestnegamuzeja Ljubljana … več ve, ki je na ogled do konca leta.Med znamenitimi portretiranci si lahko ogledate habsburškegacesarja Franca Jožefa I., italijanskega kralja Viktorja Emanuela III., jugoslovanskakralja Aleksandra in Petra Karađorđevića, slavnega maršalaRadetzkega, papeža Pija VI. in še marsikoga drugega. Spogledujetese lahko z okamenelimi obličji slovenskih literatov, slikarjev, kiparjevin drugih kulturnikov, npr. pesnikom Otonom Župančičem in igralkoSavo Severjevo. Predstavljate si lahko, kakšne lepotice so se sprehajalepo ljubljanskih ulicah v časih, ko je ženskemu svetu narekovalamodna merila cesarica Sissi, ali kako je kipar v portretu utelesilusodno privlačnost svoje svakinje, kasnejše soproge.Vabljeni v Mestni muzej Ljubljana, Gosposka 15, od torka do nedeljemed 10. in 18. uro, ob četrtkih pa do 21. ure.Več informacij na: www.mgml.si.Ljubljana, City Museum of LjubljanaMany Heads Are Better than OneBusts of prominent peopleexhibited at the City Museum ofLjubljanaWhat is your definition of prominent people? Statesmen and mayors, rulersand aristocrats, artists and philosophers? Over the course of many centuries,all of these people have shaped and influenced life in Ljubljana. They wereobviously prominent enough to be depicted in wood, clay, marble or bronzeby celebrated as well as unknown sculptors, who preserved the image of thesepeople until the modern day. The busts of important people in the collectionheld by the City Museum of Ljubljana are now part of an exhibition entitled“Many Heads … from the City Museum of Ljubljana sculpture collection …Are Better than One,” which will run until the end of this year.The portraits of the famous include the Habsburg Emperor Franz Joseph I,King Victor Emmanuel III of Italy, Kings Alexander and Peter Karađorđević ofYugoslavia, the famous field marshal Radetzky, Pope Pius VI and many more.You will also come face to face with the busts of Slovenian writers, painters,sculptors and other artists, e.g. the poet Oton Župančič and the actress SavaSever. Imagine the beautiful women who lived in Ljubljana at a time whenfashion trends were set by Empress Sissi, or imagine a sculptor expressing in aportrait the fatal attraction he felt towards his sister-in-law, who would laterbecome his wife.Visit the City Museum of Ljubljana, Gosposka 15, open Tuesday to Sunday from10:00 to 18:00 and until 21:00 on Thursdays.For more information, please visit: www.mgml.si.22

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURELjubljana, Galerija Jakopič, MGML; 29. maj–2. september 2012Mesec fotografije 2012MAGNUM PRVIČ: Obraz časaSlovenski javnosti letošnje poletjeprvič obširneje predstavljamoagencijo Magnum, najprestižnejšofotografsko agencijo na svetu, kivelja za fotografski mit 20. stoletjater vedno znova navdihuje novegeneracije fotografov.Izbor razstave »Magnum prvič« (Magnum's First) vključuje 83 originalnihčrno-belih vintage fotografij svetovno priznanih fotografov, mednjimi tudi ustanoviteljev Magnuma, to so: Robert Capa, Marc Riboud,Werner Bischof, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Ernst Haas, Erich Lessing, JeanMarquis in fotografinja Inge Morath.V Galeriji Jakopič v Ljubljani se obeta nezamenljiva priložnost ogledavrhunske svetovne klasične fotografije. Razstava ne pomeni lepresežka, ki bo navdušil poznavalce fotografije zaradi svoje slogovnein tehnične kvalitete ter ohranjenosti fotografij, temveč prinaša tudiizjemno zanimive zgodbe, ki so jih v svojih fotoreportažah obravnavaliposamezni fotografi.Tako fotografije Henrija Cartier-Bressona uprizarjajo zadnje dni življenjavelikega indijskega voditelja Gandija in njegov pogreb. Ernst Haas jeavtor fotoreportaže o snemanju monumentalnega filmskega epa HowardaHawksa Dežela faraonov iz leta 1955. Pristne podobe londonskedružbe zgodnjih 50. let prinaša serija fotografij Avstrijke Inge Morath,medtem ko je francoski fotograf Marc Riboud v vrvežu dalmatinskihuličic med drugim ujel prenašanje velikega Titovega portreta. Mordanajbolj znan fotoreporter vseh časov, Robert Capa, je za prvo Magnumovorazstavo prispeval tri fotografije baskovske pokrajine, najboljeksotične pa so podobe fotografskega dnevnika Wernerja Bischofa izPeruja, Čileja, Japonske, Kambodže ... Dva od treh še živečih avtorjev(poleg Ribouda) – Erich Lessing in Jean Marquis – sta na razstavi znovapredstavljena s podobami iz naše bližnje okolice: prvi s fotografijamidunajskih otrok in drugi z vedutami iz Madžarske.Ljubljana, Jakopič Gallery, MGML; 29 May to 2 September 2012Month of Photography 2012MAGNUM’S FIRST: Face of TimeThis summer will see the firstextensive exhibition of Magnumphotographs in Slovenia. Magnumis the world’s most prestigiousphotographic agency, a 20thcentury photography legendand an inexhaustible source ofinspiration for new generations ofphotographers.Included in the Magnum’s First Exhibition are 83 black-and-white photographs,vintage originals by world famous photographers including Magnumfounders: Robert Capa, Marc Riboud, Werner Bischof, Henri Cartier-Bresson,Ernst Haas, Erich Lessing, Jean Marquis and Inge Morath.The Jakopič Gallery in Ljubljana is offering an unparalleled opportunity to seethese superb examples of classic photography. The exhibition in itself is anextraordinary achievement that will impress photography experts with thehigh level of stylistic and technical quality, as well as with the excellent conditionof the prints on show. Just as importantly, the exhibition also presents anumber of fascinating stories highlighted by individual photographers in theirphotojournalistic reports.The photographs taken by Henri Cartier-Bresson, for instance, show the lastdays of the great Indian leader Gandhi, concluding with his funeral. ErnstHaas created a photo essay about the filming of Howard Hawks’ lavish 1955epic Land of the Pharaohs. Austrian photographer Inge Morath portrayed aseries of genuine moments in London society of the early 1950s, while Frenchphotographer Marc Riboud focused on the bustling streets of Dalmatia,catching, among other scenes, a large portrait of Tito being carried around.Robert Capa, perhaps the best known photojournalist of all time, contributedthree photographs of the Basque landscape, but the most exotic images inMagnum’s First were taken from the photographic journal of Werner Bischof:photographs taken in Peru, Chile, Japan, Cambodia … The work of Erich Lessingand Jean Marquis, two of the three authors that are still alive today (thethird being Marc Riboud), is represented at the exhibition with images takencloser to Slovenia – Lessing’s photographs of children in Vienna and Marquis’series of Hungarian photographs.23

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURELjubljana, 20. junij–13. september 2012Ljubljanafestival60. Ljubljana Festival bodo 20.junija uradno odprli Dunajskifilharmoniki pod taktirko slovitegasira Simona Rattla. Častnipokrovitelj koncerta je predsednikdržave dr. Danilo Türk.The 60th Ljubljana Festivalofficially opens on 20 Junewith a concert by the ViennaPhilharmonic led by prominentconductor Sir Simon Rattle. Thehonorary sponsor of the concertis the President of Slovenia, Dr.Danilo Türk.Fotografija: Arhiv SNG Opera in balet LjubljanaPrvi dogodek pa se je zgodil že 30. maja s fotografsko razstavo60 Alenke Slavinec v Jakopičevem sprehajališču v parku Tivoli.Kongresni trg bo Ljubljana Festival zasedel 21. junija s Poletnonočjo, poklonom 50. obletnici slovenske popevke, ki je sicer tudidel velikega projekta Mestne občine Ljubljana Junij v Ljubljani, nakaterem se bo odvila vrsta brezplačnih prireditev za vse generacijev izvedbi najvidnejših institucij. Prva večja Festivalova gledališkapredstava bo v juniju Gospoda Glembajevi beograjskega Ateljeja212; v glavni vlogi nastopa Boris Cavazza. Jani Golob bo krstnoizvedel operno delo Ljubezen kapital, študentje treh ljubljanskihakademij pa baročno opero Orfej. Zaradi velikega zanimanja boLjubljana Festival gostil umetnino Marija Kogoja Črne maske.Poletje v Ljubljani bo ponovno popestril violinist Vadim Repin, ki bonastopil skupaj z Orkestrom Slovenske filharmonije. Ta bo spremljaltudi baletno skupino Béjart Ballet iz Lozane ter enkratna opernasolista, sopranistko Invo Mula (svetovno prepoznavnost je meddrugim doživela z glasom, ki ga je posodila divi Plavilaguni v filmuPeti element) in baritonista Lea Nuccija. Med velikimi koncerti najomenimo gostovanje skladatelja in pianista Michaela Nymana, ki jeprispeval glasbo za nekaj večkrat nagrajenih filmov (med drugimKlavir), Komornega orkestra Dunajskega koncertnega združenjain Orkestra Mariinskega gledališča iz Sankt Peterburga, ki mu bodirigiral njegov direktor in umetniški vodja Valerij Gergijev. Medlahkotnejšimi prireditvami bosta muzikal Čarovnice iz EastwickaMestnega gledališča ljubljanskega in Jesus Christ Superstar, kinastaja v londonski produkciji Bronowski. Križanke bosta zagotovodvignila na noge Vlado Kreslin, ki tam nastopa že enaindvajsetič,in hudičev goslač, romski violinist Roby Lakatos. Ljubljana Festival2012 se končuje v septembru: njegov iztek bosta zaznamovalaHommage à Stravinsky, sodobni balet koreografa Edwarda Cluga,in najnovejša predstava Tomaža Pandurja Medeja.Festival Ljubljana je ob obletnici prenovil spletno stranwww.ljubljanafestival.si, ki omogoča tudi nakup vstopnic, dejavenpa je tudi na socialnih omrežjih.However, the first Festival event happened even before the official opening:30 May sees the opening of the Alenka Slavinec photography exhibitionentitled 60, located on the Jakopič Promenade in Tivoli Park. The LjubljanaFestival continues at the Kongresni trg square on 21 June with SummerNight, a tribute to the 50th anniversary of Slovenian popular song. The concertis also a part of June in Ljubljana, an extensive project of the LjubljanaMunicipality that will include a range of free events for all ages, organisedby prominent institutions. The first major Festival theatre show is scheduledfor June: a performance of The Glembajs, staged by Belgrade’s Atelje 212 andstarring Boris Cavazza in the lead role. There will also be a world premiere ofJani Golob’s opera Love Capital, while students of three Ljubljana academieswill perform Orpheus, a baroque opera. Due to popular demand, theLjubljana Festival will also host Marij Kogoj’s masterpiece Black Masks. Onceagain, the summer in Ljubljana will be made a little bit hotter by violinistVadim Repin performing with the Slovenian Philharmonic Orchestra. TheOrchestra will also accompany the Béjart Ballet Lausanne ballet companyand two supreme opera soloists: soprano Inva Mula (famous among otherthings for being the voice behind the diva Plavalaguna in the film The FifthElement) and baritone Leo Nucci. Some of the biggest Festival concert namesinclude composer and pianist Michael Nyman, who has scored a number ofaward-winning films (including The Piano), the Vienna Chamber Orchestraand the St. Petersburg Mariinsky Theatre Orchestra conducted by its artisticand general director, Valery Gergiev. Popular music is represented by the musicalsThe Witches of Eastwick by the Ljubljana City Theatre and Jesus ChristSuperstar by London’s Bronowski Productions. Audiences at the Križankevenue will be entertained by Vlado Kreslin, returning for his 21st performancethere, and Romani violinist Roby Lakatos, also known as “the Devil’s fiddler”.The 2012 Ljubljana Festival ends in September with Hommage à Stravinsky,a contemporary ballet choreographed by Edward Clug, and Tomaž Pandur’slatest show, Medea.To mark its anniversary, the Ljubljana Festival has overhauled its website atwww.ljubljanafestival.si, where tickets are now available for purchase. TheFestival is also active on various social networks.24

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURERazlična prizoriščaII. Mednarodni trienale keramike Unicum 2012 – SlovenijaSecond International Triennial of Ceramics Unicum 2012 - SloveniaNa drugem trienalu Unicum 2012 bodo organizatorji Zvezedruštev slovenskih likovnih umetnikov in Unicum 2012predstavili vse smeri ustvarjanja v tehniki keramike in pomagalipri razumevanju, presojanju pa tudi izobraževanjuna področju sodobne keramike. Izvedli ga bodo v več slovenskihmestih hkrati. Spremljevalni program bo obsegalpogovore, delavnice, projekcije filmov in druge dogodke.Unicum 2012, organised by the Union of Slovenian Fine ArtsAssociations, presents the broad spectrum of artistic stylesapplied to ceramics and aims to help in the understanding andartistic evaluation of modern ceramics as well as in educationin this field. The triennial will take place across several citiesand towns in Slovenia. The accompanying programme willinclude talks, workshops, film screenings and other events.MariborEvropski kulturni in tehnološki center (EKTC) Maribor, dvorec Betnava– osrednja razstava del, ki so prispela na mednarodni razpis, in razstavaštudentskih del;15. 5.–30. 9. 2012European Cultural and Technological Centre (EKTC) Maribor, Betnava Manor– central exhibition of works received in response to an international call forparticipation and exhibition of student works,15 May to 30 September 2012.LjubljanaZDSLU Galerija, vrt ZDSLU – razstava Vere Stanković;7. 5.–30. 5. 2012ZDSLU Gallery, ZDSLU garden – Vera Stanković Exhibition,7 May to 30 May 2012.Galerija ZDSLU – razstava Toneta Demšarja;26. 4.–25. 5. 2012ZDSLU Gallery – Tone Demšar Exhibition,26 April to 25 May 2012.Narodni muzej Slovenije, Metelkova, Ljubljana – razstava izdelkov tovarneDekor Ljubljana in študijska zbirka keramike in stekla stalne zbirke;15. 5.–30. 9. 2012National Museum of Slovenia – Metelkova, Ljubljana – exhibition of objectsproduced in the Dekor Ljubljana factory and a ceramics and glass study collectionfrom the Museum’s permanent exhibition,15 May to 30 September 2012.Ljubljanski grad, Kazemate – avtorska razstava vabljenih ustvarjalcev (MirsadBegić, Jakov Brdar, Ana Cajnko, Tanja Smole Cvelbar, Dragica Čadež, VasilijeĆetković–Vasko, Anton Flego, Lovro Inkret, Tomaž Kržišnik, Franc Novinc, EvaLenassi Peterson, Karel Plemenitaš, Mojca Smerdu, Dušan Tršar);23. 5.–31. 8. 2012Ljubljana Castle, Kazemate – exhibition of works created by guest artists(Mirsad Begić, Jakov Brdar, Ana Cajnko, Tanja Smole Cvelbar, Dragica Čadež,Vasilije Ćetković – Vasko, Anton Flego, Lovro Inkret, Tomaž Kržišnik, Franc Novinc,Eva Lenassi Peterson, Karel Plemenitaš, Mojca Smerdu, Dušan Tršar),23 May to 31 August 2012.Krajinski park GoričkoGrad Grad – razstava del redukcijskega žganja;3. 4.–3. 6. 2012Grad Castle – exhibition of reduction firing works,3 April to 3 June 2012.Slovenj GradecKoroška galerija likovnih umetnosti – stalna zbirka podarjenih del I. Mednarodnegatrienala keramike Unicum 2009Koroška Art Gallery – permanent collection of donated works from the FirstInternational Triennial of Ceramics Unicum 2009.Kostanjevica na KrkiLapidarij Galerije Božidar Jakac – soočanje avtorskega raziskovanja vumetniški keramiki;25. 5.–5. 8. 2012Božidar Jakac Gallery Lapidarium – facing original research in ceramic art,25 May to 5 August 2012.AjdovščinaPilonova galerija – razstava o keramični dediščini v prenovljenih notranjščinaharhitekta Svetozarja Križaja;maj, junij 2012Pilon Gallery – exhibition on ceramic heritage in the renovated interiors designedby architect Svetozar Križaj,May and June 2012.Slovenska BistricaGrasslov stolp – javni poziv slovenskim ustvarjalcem v keramiki;28. 5.–6. 9. 2012Grassel Tower – open call for Slovenian artists working with ceramics,28 May to 6 September 2012.Novo mestoDolenjski muzej, Knezova soba – razstava črne prazgodovinske lončenine;28. 10.–31. 5. 2013Dolenjska Museum, Knezova soba room – exhibition of black prehistoric pottery,28 October to 31 May 2013.www.unicum.si25

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREAPT FotoMaribor in Novo Mesto, JunijPomladanska Evropska prestolnica kulture 2012Springtime in the European Capital of Culture 2012V sklopu Evropske prestolnice kulture 2012 junij na širokoodpira svoja vrata raznolikim kulturnim doživetjem. Naodre v gledališča in na trge lahko zavijete tako v Mariborukot v vseh partnerskih mestih. V tokratnem izboru vam ponujamorock opero, konjeniški gledališki spektakel in akrobatskopredstavo.As part of the European Capital of Culture 2012 Project,June will see a wide range of cultural events. There will beplenty to see on the stages in theatres and on town squaresin Maribor as well as its partner towns. This time, ourselection comprises a rock opera, a horse spectacular andan acrobatic show.Jasa na Otočcu, Grajska cesta, Otočec pri Novem mestu26. 6. ob 21.15 premiera in 27. 6. ob 21.15 ponovitevČlovekA z bombamiProjekt ČlovekA z bombami na horizontalni ravni – z detonacijamiglasbenega kolektiva Siddharta – sproža in artikulira miselni in estetskidvoboj obeh avantgardistov, na vertikalni ravni pa performerji(gibalci, intermedijski umetniki, športniki) »teoretsko« komentirajočas po postpostmoderni in iščejo novo dobo in status elitneganasproti množičnemu. Predstava je eksperiment brechtovske provenience,so potujitev časa in prostora ter sodelovanje emancipiranegagledalca notranji pogoj detonacije, podnaslova, ki skriva v sebiarzenal, glasbo, nacijo.Meadow on Otočec, Grajska cesta, Otočec near Novo mesto26 June at 21:15 – opening night, 27 June at 21:15 – repeat.Two Men with BombsOn the horizontal axis, the Two Men with Bombs Project triggers and articulatesthe mental and aesthetic battle of two avant-garde artists using musicaldetonations created by the Siddharta collective; on the vertical axis, theperformers (dancers, intermedia artists, athletes) provide a theoretical commentaryon the time after post-post-modernism and search for a new ageand an elite status to counter mass consumption. The event is an experimentin Brechtian origins that symbolises the alienation of our time and space; theparticipation of an emancipated audience is an internal condition for detonations.The subtitle of the piece encompasses an arsenal, music, a nation.26

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREFotografija: Mario de CurtoUniverzitetni športni center Leona Štuklja, Maribor; 5. in 6. 6. 2012 ob 21.00Chouf Ouchouf:CHOUF OUCHOUF /Še enkrat dobro poglej –akrobatska predstavaLeon Štukelj University Sports Centre, Maribor, 5 and 6 June 2012 at 21:00Chouf Ouchouf:CHOUF OUCHOUF /Look, but Take a Real Good Look,acrobatic showZimmermann & de Perrot in Groupe acrobatique de Tanger (Akrobatskaskupina iz Tangerja). Simbioza dveh nekonvencionalnih švicarskih umetnikov,znanih po nenavadnih spektaklih, polnih absurdnega humorjain dovršene vizualne podobe, ter mladeničev in mladenk, dedičevtradicionalne maroške poulične akrobatike. Navdušujoča predstava,polna energije in neverjetnih akrobatskih točk, osvaja najodličnejšemednarodne odre in nagrade.Zimmermann & de Perrot and Groupe acrobatique de Tanger (AcrobaticGroup of Tangier). The symbiosis of two unconventional Swiss artists, famousfor creating unusual spectaculars filled with absurd humour and featuringhighly perfected visuals, and a group of young people continuing the traditionof Moroccan street acrobatics. This exciting show, bursting with energy andfeaturing breathtaking acrobatic performances, has been performed on themost respected international stages and has been winning countless awards.Hipodrom Kamnica, Maribor; 12., 13. in 14. 6. 2012 ob 21.00Konjenikova pot –konjeniški gledališki spektakelKamnica Hippodrome, Maribor, 12, 13 and 14 June 2012 at 21:00.The Way of the Equestrian,a horse theatrical spectacularVeliki konjeniški spektakel z več kot 30 konji pasme luzitanec je deloslovitega francoskega režiserja, producenta in konjeniškega mojstra Bartabasa,ki je v nekdanjih kraljevih konjušnicah gradu Versailles osnovalakademijo za gledališče s konji. Doživite konjeništvo – ne kot športnodisciplino, ampak kot umetnost, ki združuje eleganco konjskega telesa zmagično močjo gledališča.This grand horse spectacular featuring over 30 Lusitano horses was developedby the renowned French director, producer and equestrian expertBartabas, who founded the Equestrian Arts Academy at the royal stablesof Versailles. Experience equestrianism not as a sports discipline but as anart form that combines the elegance of the horse’s body with the magicalpower of theatre.www.maribor2012.eu27

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREDunaj, paviljon Otta WagnerjaPaviljon OttaWagnerja naKarlsplatzu jespet odprtDo začetka novembraZnamenito secesijsko zgradbo soprenovili, v njej pa so razstavljenadela Otta Wagnerja.Otto Wagner (1841–1918) je kotarhitekt, umetnik, teoretik urbanističneganačrtovanja in profesorna dunajski Akademiji za likovnoumetnost pomagal odpreti potdunajskemu modernizmu. Njegovinačrti so združevali učinkovitetehnične in gradbene rešitve zizjemnim estetskim učinkom.V nekdanji postajni stavbi dunajskemestne železnice (hitri tranzitnivlak) je danes razstava, ki pričao življenju in delu tega velikegaavstrijskega arhitekta. Znamenitazgradba na Karlsplatzu nudi odl. 2005 avtentično domovanjemanjši zbirki del Otta Wagnerja, kijo sestavljajo dokumenti, Wagnerjevinačrti in arhitekturne makete.Razstava v paviljonu Otta Wagnerja,ki jo je organiziral Dunajskimuzej, prikazuje same začetkeWagnerjevih najslavnejših del inarhitekturnih projektov, kot sonpr. secesijska cerkev na Steinhofu,stavba Poštne hranilnice aliprelomni projekt postaje mestneželeznice. Razstava razkriva tudiWagnerjevo identiteto radikalnegateoretika in polemičnega pisca,ki je nasprotoval tradicionalizmuin »idiličnosti«.Poleg številnih dokumentov sta vzbirki tudi dve maketi Wagnerjevihzgradb. Obiskovalci dojemajorazstavo kot poklon arhitektu,ki jih vabi, naj odkrijejo Dunaj znjegove perspektive.AmsterdamHolandskifestivalOd 1. do 26. junijaHolandski festival, vodilni mednarodnifestival performativneumetnosti na Nizozemskem, seponovno vrača v času od 1. do 26.junija. Festival že od l. 1947 ponujanizozemskim in mednarodnimobiskovalcem pregled najboljšihin najbolj priznanih performansovz vsega sveta.Na sporedu je privlačna mešanicagledališke, glasbene, plesne, operne,filmske in vizualne umetnosti,pa tudi performansi z Zahoda indrugih delov sveta v najrazličnejšihjezikih. Festivalski program sedosledno osredotoča na prehajanjemed disciplinami in vednovključuje performanse, ki ustrezajonajvišjim umetniškim standardom.Med festivalskimi lokacijami sotudi najbolj zanimiva gledališkaprizorišča v Amsterdamu, kot npr.Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ na reki IJ,gledališče Carré ob reki Amstel,Muziektheater v središču mestater Stadsschouwburg in Westergasfabriekv trendovski četrtiWesterpark.www.hollandfestival.nlKassel, NemčijadOCUMENTA (13)Od 9. junija do 16. septembra9. junija bodo v nemškem Kassluodprli razstavo dOCUMENTA (13).Vse od ustanovitve l. 1955 veljadOCUMENTA za eno ključnihmednarodnih razstav sodobneumetnosti na svetu, ki ponujačas za razmislek o odnosu medumetnostjo in družbo. Razstavoorganizirajo vsakih pet let, odprtapa je sto dni.Na letošnji dOCUMENTI se bosrečalo več kot 160 umetnikov indrugih sodelujočih z vsega sveta,predstavili pa bodo najrazličnejšeumetniške prakse, kot so: kiparstvo,performans, inštalacije, raziskovanjein arhiviranje, slikanje, fotografija,film, kuratorstvo, tekstualnain avdio dela, pa tudi drugeeksperimente v estetiki, umetnosti,politiki, književnosti, znanosti inekologiji. Umetniška direktoricaCarolyn Christov-Bakargiev dojemadOCUMENTO (13) kot obliko poizvedovanjain uživanja v materialih.Njen intuitivni pristop je podobenpristopu umetnikov in drugih udeležencev,ki jih je izbrala za letošnjesodelovanje. 13. dOCUMENTA botako ponujala presenetljivo prizoriščeza zastavljanje vprašanj, kioblikujejo naše dojemanje življenjav sedanjosti.Letošnja razstava tako priča oedinstvenosti našega odnosado predmetov in naše fasciniranostinad njimi. Vsaki zgodbipredmeta s težavno preteklostjose posveča na svojstven način,prav tako vsem spreminjajočimse konotacijam. Predmeti so izprvinskih, zemeljskih materialov:od masivnega, izklesanegakamna do keramike (trajne, pavendar lomljive). Razstavljeni soekscentrični, negotovi in krhkipredmeti, pradavni in sodobnipredmeti, nedolžni predmeti inpredmeti, ki so nekaj izgubili;uničeni predmeti, poškodovanipredmeti in neuničljivi predmeti,ukradeni predmeti, skriti aliprikriti predmeti, predmeti, ki seumikajo, predmeti v zavetišču,travmatizirani predmeti. »Uganka«dOCUMENTE (13) je paradoks,prostor s številnimi skrivnostmi,prostor nasilja in prostor morebitnegaozdravljenja.d13.documenta.deKöbenhavnJazz festivalKÖBENHAVNOd 6. do 15. julijaJazz festival v Köbenhavnu jeeden največjih in najbolj spoštovanihglasbenih dogodkov tevrste v Evropi. Na njem se srečujejoljudje iz glasbene industrije,privrženci jazza in ljubitelji kulturena splošno. Odvija se na prizoriščihpo vsej danski prestolnici.Festival se poklanja svobodi invalovanju jazzovske glasbe kotumetniške oblike ter njenemuobravnavanju glasbene estetike.V jazzu je nujno poskušati kaj novega,obenem pa ohranjati nekajklasične izraznosti – to je podlagaza dolgotrajen uspeh in sposobnostzapeljevanja vedno novihposlušalcev leto za letom.Med posebne značilnosti festivalasodijo številni brezplačnikoncerti po vsem mestu, ki soveliko pripomogli k temu, da jeköbenhavnski Jazz festival postalnajpomembnejši javni festival vdanski prestolnici. Poleg tega jezaščitni znak festivala tudi predstavljanjejazza v edinstvenih okoljih.Tako lahko poslušalci uživajona koncertih v najimenitnejšihmestnih koncertnih dvoranah,pa tudi na stari vzhodnonemškiribiški ladji, v nekdanji tiskarni inv častitljivem, veličastnem parkupivovarne Carlsberg.Köbenhavnski Jazz festival ponujatudi odlično priložnost za raziskovanjein doživljanje mesta samega– in njegovih najboljših strani.www.jazz.dk/en/London, Muzej Victoria andAlbertBritanskooblikovanje1948–2012:inovacije vmoderni dobiDo 12. avgustaLeta 1948 so v Londonu potekaleprve olimpijske igre po drugisvetovni vojni. »Skromne igre«(kot so jim rekli) so potekale včasu gospodarske krize v mestu,porušenem zaradi bombardiranja,vendar so zagotovile podlago zaspravo in obnovo. Leta 2012 VelikaBritanija znova gosti olimpijskeigre in čeprav duh ostaja enak,se je okolje, v katerem bodopotekale, v celoti spremenilo.Britansko oblikovanje 1948–2012ponuja pregled teh sprememb zraziskovanjem stavb, predmetov,podob in zamisli, ki so jih ustvarilioblikovalci in umetniki, izobraženiali živeči v Veliki Britaniji.28

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREVienna, Otto Wagner PavilionOtto WagnerPavilion onKarlsplatzreopenedUntil the beginning of NovemberThe Art Nouveau landmark buildinghas been redesigned. It houses anexhibition of works by Otto Wagner.As an architect, artist, theoretician onurban planning, and professor at theVienna Academy of Fine Arts,Otto Wagner (1841-1918) helped topave the way for Viennese Modernism.His designs combined effectivetechnical and construction solutionswith high aesthetic quality.The former station building of theVienna Stadtbahn (rapid transittrain) contains an exhibitiondocumenting the life and work ofthe great Austrian architect. Since2005, the landmark building onKarlsplatz has provided an authenticsetting for a small Otto Wagnercollection consisting of documents,designs by Otto Wagner, and architecturalmodels.The exhibition in the Otto WagnerPavilion is organised by WienMuseum and covers the origins ofWagner's most famous designs andarchitecture projects, such as theArt Nouveau church at Steinhof, thePostsparkasse building or the pioneeringStadtbahn station project.It also documents Otto Wagner'sidentity as a radical theoreticianand polemic writer against allthings traditionalist and "idyllic".In addition to numerous documents,the collection also includestwo models of Otto Wagner buildings.Visitors will find it is a homageto the architect himself, whichinvites them to discover Vienna fromhis perspective.AmsterdamHollandfestivalJune 1-26As the leading internationalperformance arts festival in theNetherlands, the Holland Festivalis back once again this year from1-26 June. Since 1947, the festivalhas been providing Dutch andinternational theatregoers with asurvey of the best and most widelyacclaimedperformance piecesfrom around the world.The festival offers a heady mix oftheatre, music, dance, opera, filmand visual arts, as well as Westernand non-Western performancepieces in a variety of languages.Its programming consistentlyemphasises discipline crossoversand always includes pieces of thehighest artistic standards.The festival graces the stages ofsome of the city's most excitingtheatrical locations, such asMuziekgebouw aan 't IJ on the IJRiver, Carré Theatre on the Amstel,centrally-located Muziektheaterand Stadsschouwburg and Westergasfabriekin the hip district ofWesterpark.www.hollandfestival.nlKassel, GermanydOCUMENTA (13)From June 9 to September 16On June 9 dOCUMENTA (13)will open to the public in Kassel.Since it was established in 1955,documenta has been regarded asa key international exhibition ofcontemporary art worldwide anda moment of reflection on the relationshipbetween art and society.It takes place every five years, andruns for 100 days.Over 160 artists and other participantsfrom around the world willmeet and present a variety of artisticpractices, including sculpture, performance,installation, researchand archiving, painting, photography,film, curatorial, text-basedand audio works as well as otherexperiments in the fields of aesthetics,art, politics, literature, science,and ecology. For the Artistic DirectorCarolyn Christov-Bakargiev, dOCU-MENTA (13) is a form of inquiry andindulgence in materials. Her intuitiveapproach resembles that of theartists and other participants shehas chosen to work with. Thus, the13th edition of documenta will be asurprising stage to present questionsthat shape our notion of life in thepresent.This exhibition speaks about theuniqueness of our relationship withobjects and our fascination withthem. It explores the individual andtroubled histories of these objects,and their shifting connotations.The materials of these objects areearthly: from solid carved stone toceramics (permanent yet breakable).There are eccentric, precarious,and fragile objects, ancient andcontemporary objects, innocentobjects and objects that have lostsomething; destroyed objects,damaged objects and indestructibleobjects, stolen objects, hiddenor disguised objects, objects on retreat,objects in refuge, traumatizedobjects. The “riddle” of dOCUMENTA(13) is a paradox, a space of manysecrets, a space of violence, and aspace of potential healing.d13.documenta.deCopenhagenCopenhagenJazz FestivalJuly 6 to 15Copenhagen Jazz Festival is one ofthe largest and most respected musicevents of its kind in Europe and servesas a rendezvous for trades people,jazz enthusiasts and culture-mindedfolks in general. It takes place all overthe Danish capital.The festival pays tribute to the freedomand fluctuations of jazz musicas an art form and its treatment ofmusical aesthetics. It is a necessityfor jazz to try something new,while preserving its more classicalexpression - that is the basis for itsenduring success, making it capableof seducing new audiences,year after year.The many free, outdoor concertsaround town are one of thefestival’s special features and helpto make Copenhagen Jazz Festivalthe city’s most important publicfestival. In addition, the festival hasmade the presentation of jazz inunique surroundings its trademark.Thus the public is able to enjoyconcerts in the city’s best concerthalls, on an old, East-Germantrawler, in a disused printing plantand Carlsberg Brewery’s venerable,stately gardens.Copenhagen Jazz Festival alsoprovides an excellent occasion forexperiencing the city itself - from itsbest side.www.jazz.dk/en/London, Victoria and AlbertMuseumBritish Design1948–2012:Innovation inthe Modern AgeUntil 12 AugustIn 1948 London hosted the firstOlympic Games after the SecondWorld War. The "Austerity Games"(as they became known) took placeat a time of economic crisis in a citydevastated by bombing, but theyprovided a platform for reconciliationand reconstruction. In 2012Britain welcomes the Olympics oncemore, and while the spirit remains,the context in which they are takingplace has entirely changed. BritishDesign 1948–2012 traces thosechanges by exploring buildings, objects,images and ideas produced bydesigners and artists born, trainedor based in Britain.29

European Capital of CultureNE pREZRITE!HIgHLIgHTS!konjEnikovapotF: Agathe Poupeney12.-14.JUN2012ODER MED NEBOM IN ZEMLJO:konjEnikova potTHE Way Of THE RIdER (La VOIE dE L‘écuyER)Doživite konjeništvo: ne kot športno disciplino, ampak kot umetnost, ki združuje elegancokonjskega telesa z magično močjo gledališča.HipoDrom kamNicaexperience equestrianism: not as a sports discipline, but as an art form that combines the eleganceof equine bodies with the magic of theatre.hiPPOdROme KAmNicAFEStivallEntF: Arhiv Narodni dom22. JUN07. JUl2012FEStival lEnt“Festival Lent” je eden izmed pomembnejših slovenskih festivalovin predstavlja eno ključnih kulturno-turističnih prireditev v sloveniji.po mestu, mariborThe “Festival Lent” is one of the most important slovenian festivalsand represents one of the key cultural-tourist events in slovenia.ARROuNd The ciTy, mARiBORF: Arhiv Anton Podbevšek TeaterČLOVEKA ZBOMBAMI26. - 27.JUN2012ČLOVEKA Z BOMBAMITWO MEN WITH BOMBSumetniška akcija človeka z bombami je poklon avantgardnemu gestusu, ki se je izpostavil,zavzel nepopularno držo, ponudil novo etiko, novo vizijo, nov sistem vrednotenja inimaginacije in postal nova paradigma slovenske umetnosti.otočec, Novo mestoTwo men With Bombs is a rock opera and an interactive tribute to Anton Podbevšek, a poet andavant-garde pioneer from Novo mesto who released the homonymous collection of poems in 1925.OTOčec, NOvO mesTOF: Arhiv Rock Otočec, d.o.o.roCkOTOČEC28. JUN01. JUl2012ROCK OTOČECPestro koncertno dogajanje bodo dopolnjevalenajrazličnejše delavnice, natečaji in tekmovanja.otočec, Novo mestoThe concerts will be accompanied by various workshops,contests, and competitions.OTOčec, NOvO mesTOGEnEralni pokrovitElji / GEnEral SponSorS:Nakup vstopNic mogoč Naticket purchase atwww.maribor2012.euwww.eventim.siwww.maribor2012.eu

NLB Klikizberi svojmotivIzberite svoj motivkar prek spleta.Odslej lahko naročite svojo najlepšo NLB Plačilno kartico MasterCard in/aliVisa, kar prek računalnika. Vse, kar potrebujete, je spletna banka NLB Klik indostop do interneta.Prek NLB Klika lahko opravite tudi večino ostalih bančnih storitev:plačujete položnice in ostale obveznosti, spremljate vaše prejemke inizdatke, sklenete depozit, naročite spremembo limita na osebnem računu,nakazujete denar na varčevalni račun, naročite trajno obremenitev,varnostne SMS-e in še marsikaj. Prihranili boste čas in denar.Za več informacij obiščite najbližjo NLB Poslovalnico, nas pokličite na01 477 20 00 ali obiščite www.nlb.si/klik.www.nlb.si/klik Kontaktni center 01 477 20 00

038adrijinPOTNIKBESEDILO: Matjaž potokar FOTOGRAFIJE: Miha frasRobert Waltl >>direktor in umetniški vodja Mini teatra»Ni napačnih vlog. Z vsako, ki sem si jo izbral ali jo je predme postavilo življenje, sem nekaj pridobil, senečesa naučil. So samo slabe ali dobre predstave,« pravi Robert Waltl. Njegove dosedanje vloge so reszelo različne. Je direktor in umetniški vodja Mini teatra, predsednik UNIME – Društva slovenskih lutkovnihumetnikov in prijateljev lutk, igralec in lutkar (če je to dvoje potrebno ločiti), režiser, kulturnianimator, pa tudi menedžer, oblikovalec in povezovalec kulturnega ter urbanega prostora, dedekMraz in Miklavž, če naštejem samo nekatere njegove vloge.Katera od množice vlog, ki jih igrate, vam je najbolj pri srcu?Težko bi oddvojil eno od druge. Povezujejo se med sabo, ene ustvarjalcembolj zagotavljajo pogoje za delo, v drugih sem sam kreativec. V kreativnemdelu se v zadnjih letih bolj kot igri posvečam režiji, saj sem v tem časurežiral preko šestdeset predstav. In to ni malo. V povprečju delam petnajstur na dan, največ energije od naštetih vlog pa mi, žal, jemlje vsakodnevnaborba za denar, ki ga gledališče potrebuje za svojo dejavnost. Umetniškov zadnjih desetih letih zagotovo ne morem mimo svoje monodrame B. M.Koltesa »Noč čisto na koncu gozdov« in prve virtualne lutkovne predstavena svetu »Palčica«, ki sem jo režiral in odigral na številnih festivalih že vdvaindvajsetih jezikih. Gotovo pa me je prepoznavno oblikovala tudi vlogadedka Mraza, ki jo igram že dvajset let in po kateri sem morda najbolj znanv širšem slovenskem prostoru.Pogosto potujete?Po naravi sem radoveden in rad potujem. Z našimi predstavami sem obiskalže vse kontinente, še raje pa v drugih kulturnih okoljih oblikujem nove predstave.Trenutno režiram v Belorusiji, po Hrvaški in Bosni, sodeloval sem tudiz Buljanom pri režijah in študijskih projektih v newyorški LaMaMi, v Umbriji,Franciji. Kamorkoli pridem, se počutim kot doma in uživam v različnosti.Moje trenutno veselje je projekt Puppet Nomad Academy. To je vseevropskiprojekt antičnega prenašanja znanj od starejših na mlajše, od bolj izkušenihna manj izkušene. Slovenski igralci so izjemni, nimajo pa časa za lutkarstvo.S projektom želimo predvsem zbuditi ljubezen do lutk, zato sodelujemoz mojstri iz različnih držav: Slovenije, Hrvaške, Madžarske, Češke, Slovaške,Estonije, Belgije, Armenije, Belorusije in Srbije. Letos končujemo PNA II in

ADRIJIN POTNIK39

ADRIJIN POTNIKzačenjamo tretjo izdajo, v kateri se nam pridružuje še Nemčija. Pomembnovlogo ima tudi raziskovanje postdramskega gledališča.Mini teater ste začeli v majhni dvoranici na Ljubljanskem gradu?Začel sem na cesti, iz nič. Pred štirinajstimi leti sem najprej zagnal urbanigledališki festival za najmlajše Mini poletje. Če je pokojni Primož Lorenzželel spodbuditi zanimanje za stari del mesta skozi glasbo, sem sam želeloživiti ljubljanska dvorišča, atrije in trge s prireditvami za najmlajše. Žetakoj smo jim ponudili več kot 150 brezplačnih predstav, koncertov, delavnicin celo varstvo za otroke. Ena od lokacij je bila tudi Ljubljanski grad. Vnajem smo dobili klet in jo lastnoročno preuredili v dvorano. Po festivalunismo nehali in jeseni istega leta uprizorili prvo lastno premiero. Začela svaz Ivico Buljanom kot gledališčem »dveh«, on kot režiser, sam kot igralec inrežiser. Do danes smo naredili okrog 100 lastnih predstav, v katerih igra večkot 150 igralcev. Razvijamo različne principe igre, tehnologije lutk, predstav,vanje vključujemo najboljše sodelavce iz Evrope in sveta. Prevladujekoprodukcijski način sodelovanja z gledališči iz nekdanjega jugoslovanskegain evropskega kulturnega prostora; večkulturnost – kot ideja Evrope – vnašem gledališču v resnici živi.Naše predstave so hitro prerasle začetno zasnovo predvsem po zahtevnosti.Pravi preboj se je najprej zgodil v tujini, kjer so nas že zgodaj nagrajevali invabili na pomembne festivale. Sodelovali smo z najbolj eminentnimi režiserji.Doma se nam je odprlo z nagradami na Borštnikovih srečanjih, začenši sSchneewittchen After Party, kasneje z Macbethom po Shakespearu in lani spredstavo Bartleby, pisar. Privilegij Mini teatra je eksperimentiranje, po čemerse ločimo od drugih gledališč. Naš končni cilj je raziskovanje nečesa novega.Mini teater neguje duh skupine, kakršno so razvili Brook, Kantor, Grotowski,Living Theatre. Igralca vključujemo v skupino, sozvočje celote, velikodušnostido partnerja v ustvarjanju in do občinstva.Kakovost MT dokazujejo tudi nagrade. Še bolj pa ste ponosni napodiranje plotov in povezovanje ex jugoslovanskega kulturnega,pa tudi novega evropskega prostora.Kakovost predstave ni vezana na države. Ideja Mini teatra se je zelo razširilapo okolici. Ljudje iz nekdanjega skupnega jugoslovanskega kulturnegaprostora nas iščejo, želijo sodelovati, se zgledovati po naših izkušnjah. Miniteater je zasebno gledališče, ki se za razliko od ostalih zasebnih gledališčobrača k umetniškemu in ne h komercialnemu gledališču. Za nas sezanimajo gledališčniki iz Srbije, Madžarske, Francije, Švice, ogledujejo sinaš model. Ne, da si ne bi želeli finančno uspešnih predstav, nista pa temupodrejena koncept in program našega gledališča. Z Ivico ga razumevakot raziskovalni laboratorij. Vanj povabiva vse, ki delijo naše poglede. Našoširino v zadnjem času prepoznavajo tudi v Bruslju.40

ADRIJIN POTNIKLani ste začeli oživljati Križevniško ulico z enkratno predstavo vpočastitev sedemdesetletnice pesnika Tomaža Šalamuna.Že ko smo z mojim in Ivičinim denarjem ter s sredstvi norveškega finančnegamehanizma tu gradili gledališče, sem začel raziskovati Križevniško.Želel sem izvedeti, kdo je tukaj živel. Odkril sem fantastične podatke oteh dvesto metrih ulice, za katero veliko Ljubljančanov sploh ne ve.Tu je živelo veliko pomembnih osebnosti, od Prešerna, Kosovela, Linharta,Valvazorja, kemika in nobelovca Preglja do slikarja Jelovška, kiparja Robbe,mecena Blaža Crobatha, njegove hčere Luize Pesjakove, Čopa, Smoleta, AneJelovškove in drugih. Fasciniran sem bil nad Zoisovim krožkom in ljudmi, kiso zahajali v njegovo hišo: od papeža, ki je nekoč obiskal Ljubljano in spal vZoisovi palači, pa do Metternicha, ki se je udeležil znamenitega ljubljanskegakongresa svete alianse. Našel sem tudi anekdotične zapise iz tistih časov.Metternich je recimo po gostitvi v Zoisovi palači v svojih spominih zapisal,da so bili Zoisova žena in otroci grdi kot sedem smrtnih grehov.Kakovost predstave ni vezana nadržave. Ideja Mini teatra se je zelorazširila po okolici.Ljudje iz nekdanjega skupnegajugoslovanskega kulturnegaprostora nas iščejo, želijosodelovati, se zgledovati ponaših izkušnjah.S prireditvami želimo Ljubljančane zvabiti na ulico, da se družijo in soponosni na izročilo Križevniške. Postavili smo klopi, posadili drevje in rože.Šalamunova sedemdesetletnica je bila idealna priložnost, da se z Ivicooddolživa temu velikemu svetovljanu. Performans pa je pomagal odkriti vseskrite kotičke, ki jih ponuja Križevniška z okolico.41

ADRIA PASSENGERTEXT: matjaž potokar PHOTOGRAPHY: miha frasRobert Waltl >>managing and Artistic Director of Mini teater“There are no wrong roles. Every role that I have chosen or that life has chosen for me has given me something, taught mesomething. There are only bad or good shows,” says Robert Waltl. His roles up to date could not have been more diverse. Heis the managing and artistic director of Mini teater, president of the Slovenian branch of UNIMA (The Worldwide PuppetryOrganisation), actor and puppeteer (two things that go hand in hand), director and coordinator of cultural activities, amanager, designer and integrator of urban space and Dedek Mraz (a Santa Clause-like figure in Slovenian culture) and St.Nicholas, just to list a few of his roles.Which of the multitude of roles that you playis closest to your heart?It would be difficult for me to separate them intoindividual roles. They are all interconnected; someof them give artists better conditions for creating,while in others I do the creating myself. As faras creative work goes, I have been focusing ondirecting rather than acting in recent years – I havedirected over sixty shows. That is a lot. On average,I work some fifteen hours per day, but unfortunatelymost of my energy is expended on the dailystruggle for money, which is indispensable for thetheatre and its activities. Looking at the artistic sideof my work over the last decade, I am proud of mymonodrama The Night Just Before the Forests by B.M. Koltes and the world’s first virtual puppet show,Thumbelina, which I directed. I have performedThumbelina at countless festivals in 22 differentlanguages. Last but not least, I have obviouslybeen greatly shaped and influenced by the role ofDedek Mraz, whom I have been playing for twodecades now. This role is perhaps what I am bestknown for among the general public in Slovenia.Do you travel often?I am naturally curious, and I love to travel. I havetaken our shows to every single continent, but myfavourite thing to do is create new shows in othercultural environments. I am currently directing inBelarus, Croatia and Bosnia; together with IvicaBuljan, I have participated in directing and studyprojects at the La MaMa in New York, in Umbria, inFrance … I feel at home anywhere I go. I just enjoythe differences, the diversity.My biggest pleasure at the moment is the PuppetNomad Academy. This pan-European projecttakes its cues from Antiquity and aims to facilitatethe transfer of knowledge from older people toyounger, from the more experienced to the less.Slovenian actors are magnificent, but they have notime for puppetry. With this project, we are lookingto awaken the love of puppets in people and to thisend we are working with master puppeteers froma number of countries: Slovenia, Croatia, Hungary,Czech Republic, Slovakia, Estonia, Belgium, Armenia,Belarus and Serbia. In 2012, we are wrappingup PNA II and getting started on the third stage,where we will be joined by Germany. Exploration ofpostdramatic theatre also plays an important role.Is it true that you started Mini teater in asmall hall in the Ljubljana Castle?I started on the street, from nothing. Fourteen yearsago, I established an urban theatre festival for children,Mini poletje (Mini Summer). In the same waythat the late Primož Lorenz was looking to reawakenthe interest in the old part of town through music,I wanted to revive the courtyards, gardens andsquares of Ljubljana through children’s events. Assoon as we started, we were offering over 150 freeshows, concerts, workshops and even a babysittingservice. The Ljubljana Castle was one of thevenues. We hired the basement, took matters intoour own hands and converted the basement intoa hall. After the festival ended, we just kept going,and in autumn that year, the first of our very ownshows premiered. Ivica Buljan and I started out as“a theatre of two” – he directed, I acted and directed.Up until today, we have put on some 100 of our ownshows featuring over 150 actors. We develop variousprinciples of acting, puppet technology and shows,and we include in them the best partners fromEurope and the rest of the world. Our main mode ofcollaboration is co-production with theatres fromthe former Yugoslav and European cultural space.Multiculturalism as the idea behind Europe is actuallyalive in our theatre.Our shows quickly outgrew the original premise,particularly in complexity. The first breakthroughhappened abroad – very soon, we startedreceiving awards and invitations to importantfestivals. We worked with eminent directors. InSlovenia, things took off with awards we receivedat various Borštnik Theatre Festivals, starting withSchneewittchen After Party, followed by Macbethafter Shakespeare and last year’s Bartleby, theScrivener. Mini teater has the privilege of beingable to experiment; that is what sets us apartfrom other theatres. Our aim is always to exploresomething new. Mini teater nurtures the groupspirit developed by Brook, Kantor, Grotowskiandthe Living Theatre. An actor becomes part of thegroup, a contributor to the harmony of the whole,a recipient of the generosity of his or her creativepartner and of the audience.The many awards are proof of MT’s quality.But there is something that makes youeven prouder: breaking down fences andestablishing connections within the formerYugoslav cultural space, as well as the newEuropean space.The quality of a show is not linked to a particularcountry. The concept of Mini teater has expandedthroughout the region. People from the onceshared Yugoslav cultural space are contacting us,looking to collaborate with us and to follow ourexample, learn from our experience. Mini teater isa privately owned theatre, but unlike other privatetheatres, its focus is art rather than commercialdrama. Theatre people from Serbia, Hungary,France and Switzerland are all expressing interestin us and looking at our model of operation.Of course we want our shows to be financiallysuccessful, but we will not compromise on theconcept and programme in order to achievethat. Ivica and I see our theatre as a research lab.Anyone who shares our views is welcome here.Our reputation has recently been recognised evenin Brussels.42

ADRIA PASSENGERAs soon as we started,we were offeringover 150 freeshows, concerts,workshops and evena babysitting service.Last year you temporarily brought life backto the Križevniška ulica Street through aone-off show honouring the 70th birthday ofpoet Tomaž Šalamun.My explorations of Križevniška started while wewere still building our theatre here, using Ivica’smoney, my money and funds from the NorwegianFinancial Mechanism. I wanted to findout who lived here. I discovered some fantasticinformation about this street, these 200 m thatmost people in Ljubljana have probably nevereven heard of.So many important figures lived here – frompoets and writers Prešeren, Kosovel, Linhart, Čop,Smole and Valvasor to chemist and Nobel Prizewinner Pregl, painter Jelovšek, sculptor Robba,patron of the arts Blaž Crobath and his daughterLuiza Pesjakova, Ane Jelovšek and others. I wasfascinated by the Zois circle and the many peoplewho visited his house – including the pope, whoonce visited Ljubljana and spent the night inthe Zois mansion, and Metternich, who came toattend the famous Congress of Laibach (the modernLjubljana), a conference of the Holy Alliance. Ihave also uncovered a number of anecdotes fromthose days. After his visit to the Zois mansion, forinstance, Metternich wrote in his memoirs thatZois’s wife and children were as ugly as sin!Our hope is that these events will bring the peopleof Ljubljana out on the street, where they canmeet and socialise. We want them to be proudof the history of Križevniška. We have put upbenches, planted trees and flowers. Šalamun’s70th birthday was the perfect opportunity forIvica and I to repay this great, cosmopolitanman. Meanwhile, the performance helped us todiscover the many hidden corners of Križevniškaand the surrounding area.43

044Dunaj, Dunaj, samo ti …, govori tekstznane pesmice, ki opeva vsem znano prelepomesto ob Donavi. Kdo pozna to evropskoprestolnico bolje kot tisti, ki tja pogostoodhajajo in se tudi vedno znova vračajo? Enatakih zvestih obiskovalk je Adrijina stevardesaManca Knaflič. Zaupala nam je nekaj vtisov inkoristnih namigov o Dunaju.

FOTOGRAFIJE: Miško kranjecWien, Wien, nur du allein ...

Avstrijska prestolnica je res nekaj posebnega, vsak lahko najdetam kaj zase. Dunaj je privlačen za ljubitelje umetnosti, glasbe,zgodovine, za sladokusce … Vendar moramo malce spremenitiKrpanovo misel »Če greš na Dunaj, moraš postiti trebuhzunaj!« Namreč – če greš na Dunaj, nikakor ne smeš pustititrebuha zunaj, saj človeka na vsakem koraku čaka kaj slastnega.Pa nikar ne hodite v to mesto samo za en dan, saj bi bil greh,če ne bi vsaj malo začutili mestnega vrveža. Okusiti moratekulinarične specialitete, slišati Straußov valček in se v mislih vrnitiv čas monarhije in blaginje. Seveda pa ne gre brez nakupakakšne malenkosti, ogleda številnih muzejev, dvorcev in palač,ki pričajo o bogati zgodovini Habsburžanov. Dunajčani so ševedno zelo ponosni na svojo preteklost in jo radi razkazujejo.Dunaj je čudovit v vseh letnih časih: spomladi, ko zacvetina tisoče meni tako ljubih vrtnic; poleti, ko se mesto spremeniv letovišče in lenobno vzdušje v starih kavarnah spominjana nek drugačen, pretekli čas. Vožnja s ’fijakarjem’ nas popeljev bogate čase monarhije, topot konjskih kopit obljubljanepozabno doživetje avstrijske prestolnice. Pozimi pa, ko vpredbožičnem času zaživijo sejmi z neštetimi stojnicami, sigreješ roke s kozarcem punča med sprehodom iz Schönbrunnado Gloritte.Ko sem na Dunaju, se nikakor ne morem odreči slastnemudunajskemu zrezku, ki ga najbolje pripravijo v legendarnigostilni Figlmüller, kjer je v času sezone brez rezervacije zelotežko dobiti prosto mesto. Pisan mozaik govoric z vsega svetaizpričuje, da sega sloves gostilne daleč onkraj meja domovine.Zrezek, ki ti ga postrežejo, je nepozaben: značilno tanek inogromen presega krožnikov premer, kot bi želel kljubovatisodobnim smernicam malih porcij na ogromnih krožnikih; spregovorno najboljšo skorjico v mestu (drobtine so iz posebnihžemljic, ki jih pečejo samo za Figlmüller), z rezinico limonein skledo krompirjeve solate z bučnim oljem. Božansko! V Figlmüllerjune boste našli piva in sladic, imajo pa zato prvovrstnovinsko karto in vsega le ducat jedi prvorazredne kakovosti.Uglajeni natakarji, gospodje pri poznih petdesetih v elegantnihoblekah, poskrbijo, da je obedovanje v eni najstarejših krčem vmestu nepozabno doživetje.Mestnemu vrvežu se najraje umaknem v eno od mnogihgalerij. Letos so ob 150-letnici rojstva secesijskega umetnikaGustava Klimta na različnih prizoriščih pripravili vznemirljiverazstave. Leopold Museum tako predstavlja Klimtova dela izsvoje lastne zbirke, dopolnjena z deli iz pomembnih avstrijskihin mednarodnih zbirk. Najbolj so me navdušili Klimtovi komentarji,njegove opombe, s katerimi so dela opremljena; tako se jemed ogledom odvijal zanimiv dialog med mojo interpretacijoin Klimtovim videnjem lastnih stvaritev. Za ogled meni najljubšegaPoljuba pa še skok do gradu Belvedere.!Adria leti na linijiLJUBLJANA DUNAJ3 krat dnevno

Wien, Wien,nur du allein ...PHOTOGRAPHY: miško kranjecVienna, Vienna, only you ... are the lyrics of a famous song abouta famous and magnificent city on the Danube. Who could bemore familiar with this European capital than the people whotravel there often and never stay away for long? One such loyalvisitor is Adria Airways flight attendant Manca Knaflič. Here sheshares some of her impressions and insider tips on Vienna.The Austrian capital is truly something special. There is something for everyonehere. Vienna appeals to lovers of art, music, history, good food … However,literary hero Martin Krpan’s advice – “If you are going to Vienna, leave your bellyat the door!” – should be altered slightly. If you are going to Vienna, the last thingyou should do is leave your belly at the door, because there is something deliciouswaiting for you at every step. And you should spend more than just one day inthe city – it would really be a shame not to experience the city life properly. Youhave to taste the local cuisine, hear a waltz by Strauss and let your imaginationwander back to the time of the monarchy, with its splendour and opulence. Ofcourse you should also buy a little something and visit some of the many museums,mansions and palaces that testify to the rich history of the Habsburgs. Thepeople of Vienna are still very proud of their past, and they love to show it off.48

you should spend more thanjust one day in the city –it would really be a shamenot to experience the city lifeproperly.Vienna is magnificent in every season: in spring, when thousands of rosesthat I love so dearly are in bloom; in summer, when the city transforms intoa holiday resort and the lazy atmosphere in old coffeehouses evokes memoriesof a different era that is long gone. A carriage ride reminds us of wealthymonarchs who once ruled here, and the sound of horse hooves promises anunforgettable experience in the Austrian capital. And then there is the winterseason, the time before Christmas when the city is alive with traditional Christmasfairs and you can buy a glass of punch to warm your hands as you walkthrough Schönbrunn to the Gloriette.Whenever I am in Vienna, I simply have to treat myself to a deliciousVienna-style steak. The finest steaks are served at the legendary FiglmüllerRestaurant; if you are in Vienna during high season, make a reservation as it isvirtually impossible to get a table without one. The hubbub of languages fromall over the world shows that the reputation of this restaurant far exceeds theborders of Austria. You will never forget the steak that you eat there: characteristicallythin and enormous, it hangs over the edge of the plate as if to spitethe modern trend of tiny portions on huge plates; the steak has the best crustin town (the crumbs are made from buns baked specially for Figlmüller) and itcomes with a slice of lemon and a bowl of potato salad with pumpkinseed oil.Divine! You will not find beer or desserts at Figlmüller, but they do have a first ratewine list; they only offer about half a dozen of dishes, but every one of them isexceptionally good. The courteous waiters – gentlemen in their late 50s, dressedin elegant suits – will make sure that your lunch at one of the oldest restaurantsin Vienna is an experience that you will cherish forever.To get away from the bustling city streets, I like to visit one of the manygalleries in Vienna. This year, in celebration of the 150th anniversary of thebirth of Art Nouveau artist Gustav Klimt, a number of exciting exhibitionshave been organised at various locations. The Leopold Museum houses anexhibition of Klimt’s art from its permanent collection, with added worksfrom other important Austrian and international collections. The thing that Ienjoyed most was Klimt’s commentary, his notes that accompany the paintings;they led to an interesting dialogue between my personal interpretationand Klimt’s perception of his own creations. And finally, a quick visit to theBelvedere Castle to see my favourite – The Kiss.!Adria flies betweenLJUBLJANA&VIENNA3 times daily

050»Prost!« odmeva iz vseh kotičkovWachaua, približno 35 kmdolge doline ob Donavi, dokoder je dobro uro vožnje scesarskega Dunaja.

prestolnica romantikebesedilo in fotografije: SAŠA SUHADOLNIKWachau, idilična destinacija, velja za eno najstarejšihin najlepših vinskih območij v Evropi,kjer se toči najboljše belo vino, ki ga premorejonaši sosedje. Povrhu tega ta očarljiva pokrajinauživa zaščito Unesca, zato ostaja prepredena zromantičnimi mesteci, pol porušenimi gradoviin skrivnostnimi samostani, ki burijo domišljijo.Dovolj razlogov torej, da sem se tja odpravilana kozarček ...Ob obisku Wachaua ne gre brez obveznegapostanka v kakšnem izmed simpatičnih lokalnih»heurigenov« oziroma po naše – vinotočev podvejo. Ta mala družinsko vodena »podjetja«, napročeljih katerih se ponavadi vzpenja vsaj sto letstara trta, so prava zakladnica ne le odličnegavina, pač pa tudi nenavadnih zgodb in pisanihvaških junakov. Ko pokukamo v njihov svet, dobimoobčutek, kot bi stopili nazaj v čas. Ženskije prostor še vedno namenjen le za štedilnikom,lokalni barčki so ponosni na še vedno ločeneprostore za moške in ženske. Zakaj že? Moškiso krepki, ponavadi zardelih lic in prav radivam povedo kakšno anekdoto. Z dvignjenimkozarcem hitijo razlagat, da so prvo trto zasadiliv teh krajih že Rimljani, prvo letino pa pridelalimenihi, ki so v času strogega vladanja MarijeTerezije lahko edini proizvajali alkohol. Seveda lev verske namene.»Danes, hvala bogu, takih omejitev ni več,« sezakrohota Walter, lastnik enega izmed dvestovinotočev v tej mali dolini. »Danes samiposkrbimo, da je naše vino nekaj posebnega,«še doda in mi razloži, da z izjemo ene samevinoteke lokalni vinogradniki služijo izključnos prodajo obiskovalcem, ki se ustavijo pri njih.Njihovega vina zato ne najdemo niti v najboljimenitnih restavracijah Dunaja. Kakšna ekskluzivnost!In gredo še dalje: imajo svoje združenjevinarjev in poseben romantičen način razvrstitvevin, ki ga ne najdemo nikjer drugje na svetu.Tako so recimo kategorijo vina z največ alkoholapoimenovali Smaragd po majhnih wachauskihzelenih kuščarjih, ki se tako kot grozdi radigrejejo na soncu. Ob taki prispodobi se ti vsakovino zdi še boljše. Splača se tudi poizvedeti, kajizbrati z vinske karte. Odgovor na to vprašanje jebil povsod soglasen: absolutno belo – zeleni veltlinec,rumeni muškat ali rizling. Rdeče vino tumočno zaostaja v kvaliteti, kar ni presenetljivo,če se ozreš po terasastih vinogradih – skalnata,hribovita pokrajina narekuje uspeh belih sort. Inodličnega belega vina, kot sem kmalu ugotovila.Škandali, tatovi in izkopane kostiA kaj je tisto, kar Wachau poleg res spektakularnepokrajine in prvovrstnega vina loči od drugihvinskih pokrajin? Marsikdo bi se strinjal, da njenapestra, na trenutke kar precej čudaška zgodovina.V njej prav gotovo zaseda prvo vrsto takoimenovani »škandal z antifrizom«. Da, prav steprebrali. Pred tridesetimi leti je poskušalo nekaj51

wachau, prestolnica romantike52

wachau, prestolnica romantikewachauskih »iznajdljivcev« pridelati zelo dragoin sladko ledeno vino. To vino zahteva zmrzal, kipa je zaradi blage klime v Wachauu ni, in takoso prišli na idejo, da bi sladkost vina dosegli zdodajanjem antifriza. Ni treba posebej poudariti,da je po razkritju prevare sledil velik škandalin avstrijsko vinogradništvo je potrebovaloleta, da si je opomoglo. Toda na srečo se je nakoncu stvar izkazala kot pozitivna. Od takrat sev Wachauu prav zaradi te sramote še toliko boljtrudijo, da pridelajo vino le najboljše kvalitete –seveda brez »antifriza«. Tega menda dodajajo leše porednim turistom.Česa takega nisem želela preizkusiti, zato semkot pridna turistka nadaljevala raziskovanje vprikupnem mestecu Dürnstein, ki se ponaša zedino modro katoliško cerkvico daleč naokoli.»Ste gledali film Robin Hood s Kevinom Costnerjem?Se spomnite, da se ob koncu filma pojaviangleški kralj Richard Levjesrčni in ga vsi sprašujejo,kje se je mudil? No, verjemite ali ne, Richardje bil takrat v Wachauu!« vzhičeno razlaga lokalnivodič tega mesteca in nam pokaže pravljičnerazvaline nekdanjega gradu Dürnstein, kjer naj bibil Richard preživel nekaj svojih zaporniških dni.Če je verjeti legendi in vodiču, naj bi bil pogumnegakralja Richarda ob vrnitvi iz križarskih vojntja zaprl njegov sovražnik. Richard je bil izpuščeniz zapora po plačani odkupnini, toda medtem koje nekaj mesecev iz svoje celice užival fantastičenrazgled na hribčke, posejane s trto, se je žezaljubil v Wachau. Po izpustitvi je zato tam ostalter užival v vinu in dekletih. Posledice tega soše vedno prisotne, kajti če se danes zaljubitena terasah Wachaua, se zna zgoditi, da bo vašizbranec potomec Richarda Levjesrčnega.V Wachauu marsikdo pusti svoje srce. Tudiznameniti italijanski pisatelj Umberto Eco si je zaprizorišče v svojem najbolj znanem romanu Imerože izbral prav wachauski samostan Melk. Nemoreš mu zameriti, samostan je resnično edennajlepših na svetu, in ko se sprehajaš po njegoviznameniti knjižnici, ki hrani več kot sto tisoč knjig,tudi sam v mislih kuješ srednjeveške spletke.Wachau je v vsakem pogledu bogata dolina.Vrednost nepremičnine tu zlahka doseže milijonevrov, a domačini kljub temu ostajajo preprosti.Ni sledu o razkošnih avtomobilih in dragihoblačilih, proste dni vsi preživljajo doma. Danesslužijo predvsem na račun vina in turizma, a tudipred nekaj stoletji so v teh krajih že znali »pošteno«obogateti. Brutalni baroni, ki so živeli vgradovih ob Donavi, so od ladij, ki so plule mimo,zahtevali plačilo in v primeru, če si jih zavrnil, soti prijazno ponudili na izbiro: stradati do smrti aliskočiti v smrt. Ni kaj, »prijetni« časi.Podobno pretresljiva je še danes cerkvica sv.Mihaela, ki se nahaja prav na sredi wachauske dolinein ima izredno majhno in čudovito urejenopokopališče. Še nedolgo nazaj so tam pokopavalivaščane, a le začasno. Ko je na pokopališčuzmanjkalo prostora, so pokojne preprosto odkopaliin kosti prestavili v kostnico ter s tem narediliprostor za nove. Kosti so še vedno na ogled, sicerle skozi majhno špranjo velikih masivnih vrat, a žeto je dovolj, da se ti postavijo kocine pokonci.Romantično, oranžno in dišečeWachau je poseben še iz enega razloga. Tu sopoleg trte doma tudi marelice. Preko sto tisočmareličnih dreves uspeva v tej magični doliniin iz marelic so domačini ustvarili pravo tržnonišo. Prikupne majhne trgovinice so na vsakemkoraku in ponujajo vse iz marelic – mareličniliker in žganje, marelično čokolado in milo terseveda odlično marelično marmelado in grenčico.Zaradi marelic se splača priti v te krajespomladi, ko drevesa zacvetijo v vsem svojemsijaju, ali pa julija, ko oranžno obarvajo dolino –vonj in razgled sta takrat res nekaj posebnega.Sama sem želela doživeti Wachau v najlepši luči,zato sem se podala na pot s kolesom. Skozi dolinonamreč poteka znamenita 200-kilometrskakolesarska pot od nemškega Passaua do Dunajain prav kilometri, ki se vijejo skozi prekrasnevinograde, so najbolj vredni truda. Na kolesu tihitro postane jasno, zakaj je Wachau priljubljenadestinacija za poroke. Za navdušene fotografeje raj, »škljocaš« lahko na vsakem koraku, a te jehkrati strah, da fotografije ne bodo uspele zajetinaravne lepote, ki jo vidi oko.Nič ne de, še vedno silahko utrgaš grozd,privoščiš skok vDonavo in si vtisnešte trenutke vspomin. Za drugič.53

Wachau, THE HOME OF ROMANCE54Wachau,the Home ofRomanceTEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY: SAŠA SUHADOLNIKShouts of “Prost!” echo from every cornerof Wachau, a valley that stretchesalong the Danube for some 35km. From Vienna,it can be reached by car in just overan hour. The idyllic Wachau is widelyregarded as one of Europe’s oldest andmost beautiful wine-growing areas, producingthe finest white wine in Austria.To top it off, this charming landscape isa protected Unesco site, scattered withromantic towns, half-ruined castlesand mysterious monasteries that stir theimagination. Plenty of reasons, then, forme to head there for a glass of wine …When visiting Wachau, stopping in a charminglocal “Heuriger” – a tavern serving its own wine ofthe most recent year – is a must. In addition to this,these small family “companies”, usually found inbuildings covered in hundred-year-old vines, areveritable treasure troves of unusual stories and colourfullocal characters. Take a peek into their worldand you will feel as though you have travelled backin time. Here, women still belong in the kitchenand local bars are proud of having separate roomsfor men and women. Why is this? The local men– strong, stout, usually red-faced – will be happyto share an anecdote with you. Raising their glass,they will explain that the first vines were plantedhere by the ancient Romans, while the first winewas produced by monks, the only people to holdalcohol licences under the strict rule of Maria Theresa.Strictly for religious purposes, of course.“Thank God those laws no longer apply today,”Walter laughs; he is the owner of one of abouttwo hundred wine taverns in this small valley.“Nowadays, we ourselves make sure that our wineis special,” he adds and explains that, with theexception of a single wine cellar, local wine-growersmake a living exclusively by selling wine to visitorswho stop by. Their wines can’t even be found in thefinest restaurants in Vienna. That is real exclusivity!But they have gone even further: they havefounded their own wine-growers’ association anduse a particularly romantic and unique system forclassifying wines. For instance, the category of winewith the highest alcohol content is named Smaragd(Emerald) after the tiny Wachau lizards that love thesun just as much as the local grapes do. Metaphorssuch as this make any wine taste better. It is alsoworth asking for a recommendation from the winelist. Everywhere, the answer was unanimous: absolutelya white wine – Grüner Veltliner, Yellow Muscator Riesling. Local red wines lag far behind in quality,which is hardly surprising; look around the terracedvineyards and you will see rocky, hilly terrain, idealfor white wines. Excellent white wines, as I wouldsoon discover.Scandals, Thieves and Bare BonesOther than the truly spectacular landscape andfirst-rate wine, what is it that makes Wachaudifferent from any other wine-growing region?Most people would agree that it is the colourful andsometimes frankly bizarre history, in which pride ofplace undoubtedly goes to what is known as the“antifreeze scandal”. Yes, you read right. Thirty yearsago, a group of particularly resourceful Wachauersattempted to produce a very expensive andsweet ice wine. But in order to produce ice wine,you need frost, and Wachau has a mild climate.So the idea came to make wine sweeter by addingantifreeze. When the scheme was uncovered, itnaturally caused considerable scandal and it tookAustrian wine-growers many years to recover theirreputation. But fortunately the final outcome was apositive one. Ever since the scandal, the shame hasmade Wachauers work even harder to produce onlythe finest quality wine – without any help from antifreeze,of course. Nowadays, it is only used to spiceup the drinks of the most obnoxious tourists.Not wanting to experience anything of that sort,I remained on my best behaviour and continuedmy explorations in Dürnstein, a charming townboasting the only blue Catholic church far andwide. “Have you seen Robin Hood, the moviestarring Kevin Costner? Remember when Englishking Richard the Lionheart appears at the end ofthe movie and everybody is wondering where he’dbeen? Believe it or not, Richard the Lionheart spentthat time in Wachau!” says a local guide, bursting

wachau, THE HOME OF ROMANCETake a peek into their world and you will feel as though you havetravelled back in time.with excitement as he shows us around thefairytale-like remains of what was once DürnsteinCastle. Richard the Lionheart is said to have spentsome time in jail here. If legend and our tour guideare to be believed, the brave King Richard, returninghome from the Crusades, was incarceratedin Dürnstein castle by an enemy. After receivingthe ransom money, King Richard was releasedbut, having spent several months in a prison celloffering magnificent views over the nearby hillscovered in vines, he had already fallen in love withWachau. After his release, he stayed in Wachau fora while, enjoying the local wines and women. Theconsequences of his stay are still evident today: fallin love on the terraces of Wachau and it could verywell be that your chosen one is a descendant ofRichard the Lionheart.Many people have left their heart in Wachau. Eventhe famous Italian author Umberto Eco chosethe Wachau monastery of Melk as the setting ofhis most widely known novel, The Name of theRose. And who could blame him? Melk is truly oneof the most beautiful monasteries in the world;walking around its famous library, home to over100,000 books, one can’t help dreaming up variousmedieval schemes.Wachau is a rich valley in every sense of the word.The value of property here easily climbs to a millioneuros, but despite everything, the locals remainmodest. There is no trace of luxury cars or expensiveclothing; holidays are usually spent at home.Today, people here make most of their moneyfrom wine and tourism, but even some centuriesago they knew how to earn an “honest” living. Themerciless barons who lived in the castles along theDanube demanded payment from passing boatsand ships. If you turned them down, they kindly offeredyou two choices: to starve to death or plungeto death. Ah, the good old days!The church of St. Michael offers a similarly jarringexperience. Located in the very centre ofthe Wachau valley, this church has a tiny butbeautifully maintained graveyard. Until recently,deceased villagers were still buried here – butonly temporarily. When there was no more roomin the graveyard, they would simply exhume theremains and move the bones to an ossuary in orderto make room for new burials. The exhumedbones can still be seen today, though you canonly catch a glimpse of them through a smallcrack in the large, solid door, but that is enoughto make your hair stand on end.Romantic, Orange and FragrantThere is something else that makes Wachau sospecial. In addition to vines, this is also the homeof apricots. There are over 100,000 apricot treesgrowing in this magical valley and the localshave successfully established a marketing niche.There are charming little shops at every step,selling everything that can possibly be madefrom apricots – apricot liqueur and spirits, apricotchocolate, apricot soap and, obviously, superbapricot marmalade and apricot brandy. It isworth coming to Wachau in the spring when theapricot trees are in full bloom or in July to see thewhole valley glowing orange – the fragrance andthe view are truly unforgettable.Wanting to experience Wachau in the best possibleway, I set off on a cycling trip. There is a famous200km cycle route from Passau in Germany toVienna in Austria that leads through the valley. Theroute twists and turns through these magnificentvineyards, repaying you for your effort and makingit all worthwhile. Cycling through Wachau, youwill soon discover why it is such a popular weddingdestination. This is a paradise for photographyenthusiasts; you can snap away at every step andstill worry that your photographs will never captureall the natural beauty that your eyes can see. Butnever mind; you can still pluck a grape, take a swimin the Danube and save these special moments inyour mind. For next time.55

056VELIKO SRCEBESEDILO: matjaž potokar FOTOGRAFIJE: Miha FrasMINI TEATRA

Zasebna gledališča v Slovenijiniso več redkost, repertoarnoumetniška pač. Mini teater je enoredkih GLEDALIŠČ, ki svojo prepoznavnostgradi na programuin kakovosti. Vse to dokazujejonagrade in želja po povezovanjus podobnimi idejami v širšemevropskem prostoru.V zadnjih letih je teater s Križevniške eno največkratnagrajenih gledališč v Sloveniji. Enkratso njihove predstave bolj namenjene otrokomkot odraslim, bolj eliti kot množicam in boljekscentrikom kot ostalim, drugič pa je ravnoobratno. Na prvi pogled zgleda vse skupajkot paradoks, v resnici pa gledališče delujeodlično in uspešno.In kaj pomeni odlično delovanje? Vsekakordejstva, da so lani spravili pod streho več kot240 uprizoritev za otroke, 90 predstav za odraslein skupaj privabili več kot 70.000 gledalcev.Predstave so pogosto razprodane, SapramiškaSvetlane Makarovič je doživela že stotoponovitev. In nagrade? Kakovosten programže nekaj let zapored pobira najvišje nagrade naBorštnikovem srečanju in drugih najpomembnejšihletnih pregledih domače gledališke bere.Ker ni prerokov v domovini, pomenijo odličnodelovanje tudi številna gostovanja po Evropiin Severni Ameriki. Gostovanje predstave Macbethpo Shakespearu v kultnem newyorškemgledališču La MaMa prav gotovo sodi med boljprestižno. Gledališki paradoks presega ljubezendo otrok in njihovih ustvarjalnih potreb ter inovativniin kontroverzni postdramski program.57

Danes je Mini teaterpojem sodobnegain kakovostnegarepertoarnegagledališča za vsegeneracije.Mini teater je nastal pred štirinajstimi leti iz poletnegaotroškega festivala. Na Ljubljanskem graduso Waltl in zanesenjaki najprej sami uredili zapuščenodvorano. Za izvedbo festivala ob prelomutisočletja je Waltl prodal družinsko dragocenost,sliko Ivana Groharja. Vsi nastopajoči, brez izjeme,pa so se odpovedali honorarjem. Ljubiteljemgledališča in slikarja Groharja se ob tem gotovonaježi koža. Po prvem festivalu so ostali v dvoranina gradu in začeli uprizarjati lastne predstave. Šedanes jih postavljajo tam, čeprav domujejo tudi vStari Ljubljani, na Križevniški ena.Kako je dotrajana in zapuščena meščanska hišav srcu starega mesta postala čudovito adaptirancenter za sodobno gledališko umetnost, je dolgazgodba. Zaradi predanosti, trme, organizacijskespretnosti ter norosti Waltla in Buljana postajavizija iz tunela pod Ljubljanskim gradom,za Lutkovnim gledališčem, resničnost. Danes jeMini teater pojem sodobnega in kakovostnegarepertoarnega gledališča za vse generacije.V programu za mlado občinstvo posvečateater posebno pozornost inovativnimumetniško-vzgojnim projektom. PredstavaPalčica je recimo zasnovana kot prva virtualnapredstava na svetu. Računalniška animacijain lutkovna igra si podajata roko. Otroci sonavdušeni, saj imajo možnost sooblikovanjapredstave. Vsaka situacija je v igri sestavljenaiz dveh ali več različnih rešitev. Otroci skupajz animatorjem določijo potek igre in izberejoznačaje za ustrezno situacijo. Andersenovapravljica je oblikovana kot igra z močnimpoudarkom na skupinskem, ustvarjalnem delu.Gledališče je s Palčico sodelovalo na več kottridesetih gostovanjih in festivalih po Evropi,vsakič v jeziku dežele, v kateri je gostovalo.Predstava Pekarna Mišmaš Svetlane Makarovičje danes vedno bolj aktualna zgodba. Pesnicanaslika dobroto skromnega peka Mišmaša, kidaje revnim otrokom kruh zastonj.58

veliko srce mini teatra60

veliko srce mini teatraČe so veliko otroško srce, iznajdljivost inorganizacijska energija Roberta Waltlaen pol paradoksa Mini teatra, je drugi delparadoksa prav gotovo estetska inprogramska usmeritev Ivice Buljana.Zlobna in jezična Jedrt pa hoče za vsako cenoizvedeti, kako Mišmašu uspe speči tako doberkruh. Letošnja obnovitev je nastala v okvirumednarodnega evropskega projekta Puppet NomadAcademy II, ki ga podpira kulturni programEvropske komisije.Postdramski del programa je usmerjen k izbranimavtorjem, kot so: J. M. Koltes, H. Miller, J. Genet,E. Jelinek. H. Gulbert , A. Rimbaud, A. S. Puškinin H. C. Andersen. In ko smo pri imenih avtorjev,seveda ne smemo izpustiti današnjih sodelavcev,ki oživljajo gledališče. Tudi na deskah Mini teatraso zasijali: Milena Zupančič, Marko Mandič in VeronikaDrolc, Jurij Souček, Ana Karić, Senka Bulićin Janez Pipan, Olga Kacjan …Če so veliko otroško srce, iznajdljivost in organizacijskaenergija Roberta Waltla en pol paradoksaMini teatra, je drugi del paradoksa prav gotovoestetska in programska usmeritev Ivice Buljana.Začelo se je z zanimanjem za modernističnepesnike in dramatike, nadaljevalo z gledališkimikritikami in z dramaturgijami. Danes o Buljanulahko govorimo kot o enem najboljšihevropskih režiserjev tega trenutka.Predaval je na Académie expérimentele desthéatres v Parizu, La MaMa School v NewYorku, Bruslju in v Moskvi. Svoje znanje prenašana študente v šolah National Théatre v SaintEtiennu in Rennesu v Franciji. Do leta 2002 jebil direktor Hrvaškega narodnega gledališča vSplitu. Je soustanovitelj Mini teatra v Ljubljaniter ustanovitelj in umetniški vodja Svetovnegagledališkega festivala v Zagrebu. Nagradili so gana Hrvaškem, v Franciji, na Kubi, Slovaškem inseveda v Sloveniji. Kar dvakrat je prejel Borštnikovonagrado za najboljšo predstavo: leta 2007za režijo predstave Oedipus Iva Svetine in dveleti kasneje za režijo predstave Heinerja MüllerjaMacbeth po Shakespearu. Letos je Ivica Buljandobil tudi nagrado Prešernovega sklada za režijepredstav v zadnjem času.V Mini teatru se vseh priznanj vedno veselijo,a so z njimi tudi pazljivi, saj jih vse nagrade invsaka posebej zavezujejo. Dobro se jim zdi, dasmo Slovenci z letošnjo Prešernovo nagradoIvici Buljanu spet pokazali, da znamo biti odprtiin brez predsodkov. Pa tudi, da opazimo uspešnein prodorne tuje ustvarjalce na naših odrih,čeprav bi o nagrajencu težko govorili kot o tujcu.Kdor vsaj enkrat prestopi prag te pravljičnehiše, zlepa ne pozabi topline in dobre energije,ki se kopiči med temi zidovi. Prav takšno je tudisrce tega gledališča. Veliko! In sprehod po StariLjubljani gotovo ne bi bil izpolnjen brez obiskaKriževniške kulturne četrti, ki v poletnih časihzažari v vsej svoji skrivnostnosti.61

The Big Heart of Mini TeaterTEXT: matjaž potokar PHOTOGRAPHY: miha frasWhile privately owned theatres are no longer a rarity in Slovenia, theatres with anart repertory still remain few and far between. Mini teater is one of the few theatresexpanding their popularity by focusing on programming and quality.This is evident from Mini teater's many awardsand the desire to connect with similar ideasthroughout Europe. Situated on Križevniška ulicastreet, Mini teater has become one of Slovenia’smost award winning theatres in recent years.Sometimes their shows are aimed more at childrenrather than adults, the elite rather than themasses, eccentrics rather than the more conventional– and sometimes it is the other way around.This might seem like a paradox at first glance, butin reality the theatre is functioning perfectly andwith considerable success.So what does “functioning perfectly” actuallymean? For a start, it means that last year they puton more than 240 performances for children and90 performances for adults, attracting a total ofover 70,000 audience members. The shows often sellout; Svetlana Makarovič's Sapramiška has recentlycelebrated its 100th performance. And the awards?For several years in a row, Mini teater’s qualityprogramme has been winning the top awards atthe Borštnik Theatre Festival and other recognisedannual reviews of Slovenian theatre. But a prophetis not without honour except in his own country, soeven more telling perhaps are the many guest performancesthroughout Europe and North America,including prestigious venues such as the cult NewYork theatre La MaMa, which hosted a guest performanceof Macbeth after Shakespeare. The theatreparadox surpasses a mere affection for children andtheir creative needs, as well as the innovative andcontroversial post-dramatic programme.Fourteen years ago, Mini teater developed froma summer children’s festival. Waltl and his smallband of enthusiasts started by renovating anabandoned hall in the Ljubljana Castle with theirown hands. To finance the festival at the end of thelast millennium, Waltl even sold a family heirloom– an Ivan Grohar painting – while every singleperformer waived any appearance fee. This wouldundoubtedly horrify theatre and Ivan Grohar fans.Following that first festival, the performers stayedon in the Castle hall and started putting on theirown shows. Performances are still staged theretoday, although the theatre now has a permanenthome in the old part of Ljubljana, at Križevniška 1.How does one turn a dilapidated, abandonedbuilding in the heart of the old town into a beautifullyadapted centre of modern theatrical art? Thatis a long story. But thanks to Waltl and Buljan’sdedication, stubbornness and organisational talent,along with a pinch of madness, the vision thatfirst appeared in the tunnel under the LjubljanaCastle, behind the Puppet Theatre, is gradually becominga reality. Today, Mini teater is synonymouswith a modern, high quality repertory theatre forall generations.The programme aimed at a younger audienceespecially focuses on innovative projects thatcombine art with an educational aspect. Forinstance, Thumbelina has been designed as theworld’s first virtual show, where computer animationand puppetry go hand in hand. Children loveit because they have the opportunity to influencethe show. Every situation within the show hastwo or more possible outcomes. Guided by acoordinator, the children determine how the showwill continue and choose the characters for eachindividual situation. Andersen’s fairy-tale has been62

eimagined as a show with a strong emphasis onteam work and creativity. Mini teater has takenThumbelina to over thirty festivals and eventsthroughout Europe, always performing the showin the language of the host country.These days, the story of Svetlana Makarovič’sMišmaš Bakery is increasingly topical. The poetwrites about the kind and humble baker Mišmaš,who hands out free bread to impoverished children.Meanwhile, the mean, malicious Jedrt is willingto go to any length to discover how Mišmašmanages to bake such delicious bread. This year’sreprise is part of Puppet Nomad Academy II, aninternational European project supported by theEuropean Commission’s culture programme.The post-dramatic portion of the programme isfocused on select authors such as J. M. Koltes, H.Miller, J. Genet, E. Jelinek, H. Gulbert , A. Rimbaud, A.S. Pushkin and H. C. Andersen. But we should also includein this list the many artists keeping the theatrealive today. To list just some of the stars who haveshone on the Mini teatre stage: Milena Zupančič,Marko Mandič and Veronika Drolc, Jurij Souček, AnaKarić, Senka Bulić and Janez Pipan, Olga Kacjan …If the large, childlike heart, inventiveness andorganisational energy of Robert Waltl is half of theparadox that is Mini teater, the second half is completedby Ivica Buljan’s aesthetics and focus on theprogramme. It all started with an interest in modernistpoets and playwrights and continued withtheatre reviews and dramaturgy. Today, Ivica Buljanis arguably one of the best European directors of histime. He has lectured at the Académie expérimenteledes théatres in Paris and the La MaMa School in NewYork, as well as in Brussels and Moscow. He shares hisknowledge with students at the National Théatre inSaint Etienne and in Rennes, France. Until 2002, Buljanworked as the managing director of the CroatianNational Theatre in Split. He is the co-founder of Miniteater in Ljubljana and the founder and artistic directorof the World Theatre Festival in Zagreb. Buljanhas received various awards in Croatia, France, Cuba,Slovakia and, obviously, Slovenia. He is a two-timewinner of the Borštnik Award for best show: in 2007for directing Ivo Svetina's Oedipus and in 2009 fordirecting Heiner Müller's Macbeth after Shakespeare.This year, Ivica Buljan also won a Prešeren FundAward for his direction of recent shows.At Mini teater, they are always glad of the awards,but at the same time the awards make everyoneinvolved even more focused, as they see each andevery prize and plaque as a standard to live up to.They are happy to see Slovenia demonstrate onceagain that it can be open-minded and unprejudiced,as demonstrated by granting this year'sPrešeren Award to Ivica Buljan. Similarly, they arehappy that successful and original foreign artistsworking on Slovenian stages do not go unnoticed,although in this case, the award winner couldhardly be described as a foreigner. Anyone whohas ever entered this magical fairy-tale buildingwill remember the feeling of warmth and positiveenergy stored inside these walls forever. And thebest description for the heart of this theatre? Big!No walk in the old part of Ljubljana would becomplete without a visit to the Križevniška culturalquarter, especially in the summer time when thewhole area glows with a special aura of mystery.If the large, childlike heart, inventivenessand organisational energy of Robert Waltlis half of the paradox that is Mini teater, thesecond half is completed by Ivica Buljan’saesthetics and focus on the programme.63

064Ljubljanske znamenitostiKriževniškačetrtSte se kdaj vprašali, zakaj je petek, 13., slab dan? Zgodovinski viri trdijo, da je francoski kralj Filip Lepi vpetek, 13. oktobra 1307, aretiral in kasneje pobil vse člane templjarskega reda. Templjarji so bili predhodnikikrižniškega reda in so tudi v Sloveniji pustili svoje zgodovinske sledi. Kdo ne pozna Križank inKriževniške ulice v samem centru slovenske prestolnice? tam so v desetem in enajstem stoletju razvilisvojo postojanko templjarji, nato so jih zamenjali križniki.BESEDILO: MATJAŽ POTOKAR FOTOGRAFIJE: MIHA FRASKo se po ulici sprehajajo turisti in posedajo po popisanih klopeh, marsikdone ve, zakaj so klopi popisane z imeni: France Prešeren, Ana Jelovšek, IvanMrak ali Blaž Crobath. Ne vedo, zakaj je ta ulica okrašena z zelenjem in rožami,zakaj deluje domače. Takoj opazijo portale, dvorišča, lokale, umetniškegalerije in gledališče, začutijo drugačnost. Zasluga, da je danes ulica, kinosi ime po katoliškem redu, živa in igriva, gre predvsem zanesenjakom,zbranim okrog Mini teatra. Najprej so z nje odpihnili prah in ruševine z zgodovinskegaspomina. Ugotovili so, da je močno tlakovana tudi z usodamipomembnih literatov, slikarjev in drugih umetnikov ter znanstvenikov innjihovih mecenov, prijateljev in sorodnikov. Pod vodstvom Roberta Waltlain arhitekta Denisa Petrovčiča so med Mestnim muzejem in novim Bregomustvarili novo kulturno četrt. Na ulico so postavili majhne likovne instalacije,označevalne table, napise, zelenje in cvetje ter klopi za branje in druženje.Odpihnimo z ulice prah zgodovine še mi! Še preden je dobila današnjeime, se je imenovala Ribiška. V okolici so živeli ribiči in na lokaciji okrogdanašnje gostilne Pod skalco sušili svoje mreže. Še pred njimi so tod živeli

KRIŽEVNIŠKA ČETRTMorda je še bolj pomembno, da se tudi danes življenje in kultura nistaumaknila z ulice. Želja snovalcev, prenesti energijo življenja izgledališča na ulico, se uresničuje.koliščarji, Rimljani in srednjeveški Ljubljančani. Način življenja meščanovv baroku lahko še danes zaslutimo v čudovitih atrijih in na tristo let starihhrastovih stropih nekaterih stavb.Še bolj je ulica zanimiva zaradi literarnih in arhitekturnih usod. Na vogaluKriževniške in Brega še vedno stoji Zoisova palača. Žiga Zois jo je dokončalleta 1760. V njej je baron gostil prijatelje iz prosvetljenskega krožka: AntonaTomaža Linharta, Valentina Vodnika, Blaža Kumerdeja in mnoge druge.Njegov sin Michelangel je kasneje uredil pred hišo tudi prvi park v Ljubljani.Palača je bila v Zoisovem času znana kot najbolj gostoljubna ljubljanskahiša za visoke goste. V njej je prespal eden od papežev pa tudi avstrijskidiplomat Metternich. Arhitekt Jože Plečnik je kulturnemu mecenu Zoisupostavil v neposredni bližini palače kamnito piramido. Morda samo kotpomnik, nemara pa tudi kot navdih bodočim študentom Fakultete zaarhitekturo, ki danes študirajo nasproti piramide.V zgodnjem baroku so na drugem vogalu ulice zgradili Codellijevo hišo.Danes je znana predvsem kot Gostilna Vitez, gostišče pa je v hiši že od leta1574. V Prešernovih časih jo je posedoval njegov prijatelj Andrej Smole. Naportal hiše je znameniti kipar Francesco Robba izklesal viteza s šlemomna glavi. V drugem nadstropju Codellijeve hiše so odkrili zanimive freskeslovenskega baročnega slikarja Jelovška.Na številki 8 je svoje zadnje dni, pred smrtjo v domačem Tomaju, preživelpesnik Srečko Kosovel. Tam so mladi Kosovel, Mile Klopčič, BratkoKreft, Ivo Grahor, Angelo Cerkovnik, Anton Ocvirk in drugi ustanovili tudiLiterarno-dramatični krožek Ivan Cankar. Vanj so se kasneje vključili tudigledališčniki Mira Danilova, Slavko Jan, Emil Kralj in Ferdo Delak. Še kasnejeje v palači živel tudi dramatik Ivan Mrak. Ulica je prepojena z biografijamiljudi in s številnimi zgodovinsko-umetniškimi lokacijami.Morda je še bolj pomembno, da se tudi danes življenje in kultura nistaumaknila z ulice. Želja snovalcev, prenesti energijo življenja iz gledališča naulico, se uresničuje. Običajno se dogajanje najbolj razmahne poleti.65

križevniška četrtTakrat zaživi četrt s posebno energijo. Turisti, sosedje, otroci, meščani inumetniki se srečujejo, brez odra, neposredno na ulici.Kulturno četrt so avgusta lani odprli s performansom »Jaz, po kateremse lahko imenuje Ljubljana« v režiji Ivice Buljana, s katerim so počastilisedemdesetletnico največkrat prevajanega slovenskega pesnika TomažaŠalamuna. Zvedavim pogledom je performans razprl skrite lokacije Križevniške.Peklensko dvorišče, Križanke, Križevniška cerkev in celotna četrt soutripali v izbranih besedah pesnika. Performerji so bili seveda najpomembnejšisodelavci Mini teatra, razen njih pa še nekateri gosti. Četrt je za envečer spet postala umetniška pravljica, prisotni pa smo začutili magičnomoč skupnega prostora.Tu potekajo tudi ustvarjalne delavnice in predstave Mini poletja, Festivalačrk, Festival srednjeveške in renesančne glasbe, branja poezije in proze termanjši koncerti, srednjeveški dnevi v Ljubljani in spoznavni večeri. Tudizato postaja Ljubljana svetovna kulturna metropola. Križevniška kulturnačetrt danes prerašča ozke ulične okvire. Če je bil njihov načrt najprejpomagati igralcem, umetnikom, pouličnim gledališčnikom in drugim, sodanašnje ambicije že večje. Počasi se vanjo vključujejo vse bližnje kulturnein znanstvene ustanove, od Dvornega trga s Slovensko akademijo znanostiin umetnosti (SAZU) do Narodne in univerzitetne knjižnice (NUK) inMestnega muzeja.Kulturnega oživljanja ulic, četrti in sosesk v slovenski prestolnici pa niopaziti samo v Križevniški, saj jo že nadgrajujeta in posnemata še dveljubljanski četrti. Lani je tako zaživela tudi Kulturna četrt Tabor. Kulturnoin družabno oživljanje soseske ter sodelovanje med prebivalci na Taborunadgrajujejo tudi s trajnostnim razvijanjem četrti in njenimi ekološkimipopravki. Predvsem z namenom podpore umetniškim projektom, aktualniglasbeni ustvarjalnosti in nevladnim organizacijam pa nastaja tudiKulturna četrt Šiška.66

KRiževniška četrtAli postaja slovensko glavno mesto zato kaj bolj prijazno do svojihprebivalcev? Prav gotovo. To dokazujejo tudi nekatere spremembe vobnašanju. Prebivalci oživljenih predelov Ljubljane se med seboj poznajoin tudi pozdravljajo. Kot včasih na vasi ali v manjših mestih. V hitrihin trpkih časih pa take geste štejejo precej več, kot je videti naprvi pogled.67

križevniška quarterThe Sights of Ljubljana –Križevniška QuarterTEXT: matjaž potokar PHOTOGRAPHY: miha frasHave you ever wondered why Friday the 13th is considered tobe a day of bad luck? According to historical sources, it wason Friday, 13 October 1307, that the French king Philip the Fairordered every member of the Knights Templar to be arrestedand later killed. The Knights Templar were predecessors ofthe Crusaders, and their traces can still be found in Sloveniatoday. Everyone is familiar with the Križanke theatre andKriževniška ulica Street in the heart of Ljubljana. In the 10thand 11th centuries, the Knights Templar and later the Crusadershad their post here.Many of the tourists walking along the street or lounging on the inscribedbenches have no idea why the benches bear these names: France Prešeren,Ana Jelovšek, Ivan Mrak or Blaž Crobath. They do not know why this street isfilled with greenery and flowers, why it feels so homey. But they immediatelyspot the portals, courtyards, cafes, art galleries and the theatre; they feelthat there is something different about this place. The fact that this street,named after a Catholic order, is so full of life and playfulness today is largelythanks to the group of enthusiasts focused around Mini teater. They startedby sweeping away the dust and removing the ruins from the street’s historicalmemory. Their efforts were repaid with the discovery that the street waspaved with the fates of a number of great authors, painters and other artists,scientists and their patrons, friends and relatives. Led by Robert Waltl and architectDenis Petrovčič, this small group of people established a new culturalquarter between the City Museum and the renovated Breg area. They filledthe street with small sculptures and installations, information signs, inscriptions,greenery, flowers and benches for reading and chatting to friends.Let’s join Mini teater and sweep the centuries-old dust from the street! Before thename change, it was known as Ribiška ulica (Fisherman Street); it was inhabitedby fishermen who dried their nets where the Pod skalco restaurant stands today.Even earlier, this area was inhabited by lake dwellers. They were followed by Romansand the medieval people of Ljubljana. We can still imagine the way peoplelived here during the Baroque period just by looking at the magnificent atria and300-year-old oak ceilings of some buildings.What makes this street even more fascinating are the many literary and architecturalfates that played out here. The Zois mansion still stands on the cornerof Križevniška and Breg today. Finished in 1760, the mansion was where baronŽiga Zois hosted friends from the enlightenment circle – Anton Tomaž Linhart,Valentin Vodnik, Blaž Kumerdej and many more. Later, Ljubljana’s first park wasbuilt in front of the mansion by Zois’s son Michelangel. In Zois’s lifetime, themansion was known as the most hospitable house in Ljubljana for importantguests, accommodating even a pope and Austrian diplomat Metternich. Inmemory of Žiga Zois, this great patron of culture, architect Jože Plečnik built astone pyramid in close vicinity to the mansion. The pyramid serves as a tributeas well as perhaps an inspiration to future architects spending their days at theFaculty of Architecture across the road from it.In the Early Baroque, the Codelli house was built on the other street corner. Todaythe home of the Vitez restaurant, the building has hosted inns and restaurantssince 1574. In Prešeren’s lifetime, the inn was owned by his friend Andrej Smole.The stone portal of the Codelli house, depicting a knight wearing a helmet, isthe work of famous sculptor Francesco Robba, while the second floor housesfascinating frescoes created by the Slovenian Baroque painter Jelovšek.In the house at number 8, poet Srečko Kosovel spent his last days before returningto his home town of Tomaj to die. Number 8 was where the young Kosovel,68

KRiževniška quarterMile Klopčič, Bratko Kreft, Ivo Grahor, Angelo Cerkovnik, Anton Ocvirk and othersfounded the Ivan Cankar Literary and Drama Circle that was later joined by theatrepeople such as Mira Danilova, Slavko Jan, Emil Kralj and Ferdo Delak. Later,the mansion became the home of playwright Ivan Mrak. The street is brimmingwith life stories and countless historically and artistically significant locations.Perhaps even more significantly, life and culture continue to exist on the streettoday. The creators’ desire to transfer vital energy from the theatre out ontothe street is becoming a reality. Summer is usually the most active time. Thequarter vibrates with special energy. Tourists, neighbours, children, city dwellersand artists meet directly on the street, without the barriers created by the stage.The cultural quarter was inaugurated in August 2011 with a performanceof Jaz, po katerem se lahko imenuje Ljubljana (I, Whom Ljubljana CouldBe Named After), directed by Ivica Buljan and staged in honour of the 70thbirthday of Tomaž Šalamun, Slovenia’s most translated poet. The performanceserved to reveal the hidden locations of the Križevniška to curious eyes. TheCourtyard of Hell, Križanke, Križevniška church and the entire quarter breathedin time with the poet’s creations. The performers were comprised of Miniteater’s most important collaborators and select guests. On that special night,the quarter was revived as an art fairytale; everyone present felt the magicalpower of a shared space.Today, the quarter is the venue of many creative workshops and shows that arepart of the Mini Summer Festival. It also plays host to the Festival of Letters, theFestival of Medieval and Renaissance Music, poetry and prose readings, smallscaleconcerts, medieval days in Ljubljana and introductory evenings. Sharingthe credit for Ljubljana becoming an international cultural metropolis, theKriževniška cultural quarter is now starting to outgrow the narrow constraints ofthe street. The initial plan was simply to help actors, artists, street performers andothers, but now ambitions have grown to include the nearby cultural and scienceinstitutes, from the Slovenian Academy of Sciences and Arts on the Dvornitrg square to the National and University Library and the City Museum.The cultural revival of Ljubljana’s streets, quarters and neighbourhoods isspreading beyond the Križevniška, with two new quarters already buildingon its example. Last year, the Tabor cultural quarter was inaugurated, withinhabitants reviving the cultural and social aspects of the neighbourhoodand expanding upon them through sustainable, environmentally friendlydevelopment. The Šiška cultural quarter, on the other hand, is focusedprimarily upon supporting art projects, musical creativity and non-governmentalorganisations.Is all this making the capital ofSlovenia a friendlier city for itsinhabitants? Without a doubt. Thisis nowhere more evident than incertain shifts in people’s attitudes.People living in the revivedneighbourhoods are starting torecognise and greet each otheron the street. Just like in the olddays in villages and smallertowns. And in these stressfuland difficult times, gesturessuch as a simple greeting meana lot more than it appears atfirst glance.69

068DESTINACIJAKLETBESEDILO: MAJA CIMERMAN FOTOGRAFIJE: MATEJ SITAR

DESTINACIJA: KLETVarnostni pas je zategnjen, glava počiva na belem pregrinjalu vzglavnika, pilot naznani »crew prepare for take off«, motorjibrnijo, vse glasneje in glasneje. Zdaj, zdaj bi me moralo v želodcu majčkeno, a zelo prijetno zviti, kot me vedno, ko seletalo odlepi od tal in rahlo nagne krila na stran …, zdaj, zdaj ..., ampak občutek izostane. Ker tokrat ne sedim na letaluin ne brenčim nekje med oblaki proti kakšni daljni destinaciji, temveč v kleti Aleša Wallanda v Mariboru. Na poti v koščekzgodovine nekega moža.»Bil je srečen dan, ko sem začel leteti,« pravi Walland, medtem ko znižaglasnost zvočnikov, ki predvajajo zvoke vzleta. »Moja mama je na tombolizadela polet na douglasu DC-3 in podarila ga je meni. Takrat sem imel petlet, ampak vsega se zelo dobro spomnim.«Douglas DC3 zato zavzema med njegovimi modelskimi letali prav posebnomesto, čeprav so vsi, približno štiri ducat jih je, ki visijo na njegovemkletnem nebu, neločljivo povezan s kakšnim spominom.»Na takšnem tovornem letalu B-707 so iz Maribora v arabske državevozili kure in jajca, na teh so se pri nas urili piloti Swissaira, na tem jumbojetu MD-11 pa se je v Kanadi ponesrečil moj prijatelj, pilot in kapitan UrsZimmermann.«Zamisli se, medtem ko od nekod privleče plastične letalske kozarce inpostreže z ananasovim sokom. Pomigne proti mizi, kjer je steklena posoda,polna majhnih vrečk prigrizkov letalskih družb iz vsega sveta.71

DESTINACIJA: KLET72

DESTINACIJA: KLET»Nekateri so še prav sveži, z mojih nedavnih potovanj,« pravi z nasmehom.Kdor pozna toliko zgodb, kot jih Walland, tudi na letenje gleda drugače.Pravi, da izredno nerad leti kot običajen potnik. V svoji karieri se je prevečrazvadil, ko je kot letalski inženir lahko sedel s posebno dovolilnico spredajpri pilotih in ves čas natančno vedel, kaj se dogaja. Zdaj mu postajamed turbulencami neprijetno in se zato drži pregovora, ki ga je nekočslišal: »Nikoli pijan v službo, nikdar trezen na letalo.« Seveda je v temdobršen del šale, ampak kot povsod je v vsaki šali tudi nekaj resnice.Walland je kot mladenič želel postati pilot. Najprej je gradil modele letalin uspešno sodeloval na tekmovanjih v modelarstvu. S sedemnajstimije začel letati z jadralnim letalom, v katerem se je uspel obdržati v zrakutudi do osem ur. Dokler ni moral na stranišče. Svojemu cilju je sledil naLetalski akademiji v Zagrebu, vendar pilot zaradi poškodbe hrbtenicepotem le ni postal.»Danes se mi zdi, da je bilo bolje tako,« pravi.Morda je za letalstvo res naredil več na tleh, kot bi mogel v zraku. Na različnihdelovnih mestih, do vključno direktorskega, je bil na mariborskemletališču že od njegovega ustanavljanja leta 1975 pa vse do upokojitvepred nekaj leti.Ampak čisto brez tega norega letalskega sveta ni mogel niti po upokojitvi.Zato si je omislil svoje kokpitsko pribežališče, kamor lahko povabiprijatelje ali pa se umakne v svoj svet, ki je hkrati pod zemljo in nad njo. Vneznansko obilico detajlov, ki jih lahko ustvari samo strastno zbirateljskoživljenje. V objem vžigalnikov, prtičkov, pisal in priznanj letalskih družb,pilotskih čepic, reklamnih posterjev, knjig o letenju, fotografij in videoposnetkov. V paralelno realnost, ki je še na hodniku blokovske kleti, kakršnihje v Mariboru na tisoče, nepredstavljiva.Iz zvočnikov zdaj prihajajo zvoki Glenna Millerja. Ker je bil glasbenik medvojno član Air Forcea in je umrl v letalski nesreči nad Rokavskim prelivom,ima vso pravico za obstoj v Wallandovem kletnem panteonu. In kotzanalašč zazvoni telefon, na drugi strani pa je Alešev nekdanji inštruktorletenja in prijatelj z isto strastjo, da se dogovorita za naslednji polet.»To je užitek, ki si ga ne pustimvzeti. Na sopilotovem sedežu se miv majhnem motornem letalu nadprelepo Štajersko čisto spremeniperspektiva.« Letalec na nebuostane letalec tudi na zemlji inše pod njo ...73

DESTINATION: BASEMENTDESTINATION: BASEMENTTEXT: MAJA CIMERMAN PHOTOGRAPHY: MATEJ SITARMy seatbelt is fastened, my head is resting on the white headrestcover, the pilot announces “cabin crew prepare for take-off” andthe drone of the engines grows louder and louder. Now, nowis the moment I should feel that tiny but pleasant flutteringin my stomach, as always happens when the plane takes offand banks gently to one side, now, now... but the feeling is notthere. Because this time I’m not sitting in an aeroplane buzzingthrough the clouds towards some distant destination, but inAleš Walland’s basement in Maribor. On my way to a little pieceof one man’s personal history.“It was a happy day when I started flying,” says Walland, as he turns down thevolume of the speakers that are broadcasting the sounds of the take-off. “Mymother won a flight in a Douglas DC-3 at a raffle, and gave her prize to me. Iwas five years old at the time, but I remember it all very well.”That is why the Douglas DC-3 occupies a special place in his collection ofmodel aeroplanes, although each of the models hanging from the ceiling –there are around four dozen of them – is tied up with a specific memory.“A Boeing 707 cargo aircraft like that one used to carry chickens and eggs fromMaribor to the Arab countries. Swissair pilots trained here on these. This is theMD-11 airliner piloted by my friend Urs Zimmermann that crashed in Canada.”Lost in thought, he pulls out some plastic airline cups from somewhere andserves pineapple juice. He points towards the table, where a glass bowl is full oflittle packets of in-flight snacks from airlines from all over the world. “Some ofthem are still fresh, from my recent travels,” he says with a smile.Someone who knows as many stories as Walland does also sees flying in adifferent way. He tells me he hates flying like an ordinary passenger. Over thecourse of his career he grew too used to a different way of flying, when hisspecial aircraft engineer’s permit allowed him to sit up front with the pilots andhe always knew exactly what was going on. These days he finds turbulenceunpleasant and sticks faithfully to a maxim he once heard: “Never go to workdrunk, never board a plane sober.” A joke, of course, but, as always, one thatcontains a grain of truth.As a young man Walland wanted to become a pilot. To begin with he builtmodel aircraft and enjoyed success in aircraft modelling competitions. At theage of 17, he started flying a glider and was soon capable of staying aloft forup to eight hours. Until he needed to go to the bathroom, in fact. He continuedto follow his dream at the Academy of Aviation in Zagreb, but a back injurymeant that he could not become a pilot.“Today it seems to me that perhaps it was better that way,” he says.It could be that he really did achieve more for aviation on the ground than hewould have been able to in the air. Over the course of his career at Maribor Airport– a career that lasted from the airport’s founding in 1975 until his retirement a fewyears ago – he occupied a number of different positions, including that of director.74

DESTINATION: BASEMENT“It was a happy day when I started flying,” says Walland, as he turns downthe volume of the speakers that are broadcasting the sounds of thetake-off. “My mother won a flight in a Douglas DC-3 at a raffle,and gave her prize to me. I was five years old at the time, but Iremember it all very well.”But he would not have been able to retire without taking some of the crazyworld of aviation with him. And so he devised his cockpit refuge, a place toinvite his friends or retreat into his own world, a world that is simultaneouslybelow and above the ground. Into an incredible wealth of details that only alife passionately devoted to collecting can create. Cigarette lighters, napkins,writing implements and commendations from airlines, pilot’s caps, advertisingposters, books about flying, photographs and videos. A parallel realitythat is unimaginable even in the corridor outside this basement beneath atower block, identical to so many others in Maribor.Now the sounds of Glenn Miller are coming from the speakers. The greatbandleader was a serving Air Force officer who died when his plane plungedinto the English Channel, so he has every right to exist in Walland’s basementpantheon. As if on cue, the telephone rings: it is Aleš’s former flying instructor, afriend who shares the same passion, calling to talk about their next flight.“That is a pleasure I will never give up. Sitting in the co-pilot’s seat of a small planeabove the beautiful Štajerska countryside gives me an entirely new perspective.”An aviator remains an aviator even six feet under.75

074OlimpijecMarko RačičlegendaBESEDILO: MARJAN ŽIBERNAFOTOGRAFIJE: Igor Lapajne in osebni arhiv Marka RačičaV njegovi dnevni sobi je med številnimi priznanji in drugimi odličji, kipričajo o njegovem dolgem in dejavnem življenju, tudi pokal z napisom»legenda«. Prejel ga je od »svoje« Atletske zveze Slovenije. MarkoRačič je prav to: legenda.Poznam ga, vsaj na videz, okroglo 30 let. Kot osnovnošolec, ki ga je začelasrkati vase neubranljiva privlačnost atletike, sem ga začel srečevati naatletskih stadionih – vitkega, sivolasega gospoda živahnih gibov, ki je budnoskrbel, da so tekmovanja potekala skladno s pravili in v poštenem duhu. Vnaslednjih letih sem ga v tem okolju srečal še velikokrat. V zadnjem desetletjuso se najina pota križala veliko redkeje, a vsakič posebej sem se čudil,kako malo se je medtem spremenil; kot da bi se ga čas komaj dotaknil. Kosem se konec aprila oglasil pri njem doma, v ljubljanski Šiški, sem se lahkoponovno prepričal o tem, kako vitalen je. Tako kot vselej je imel kup načrtovin obveznosti, povezanih z atletiko, ki ji je ob svoji družini posvetil življenje.Marko Račič, ki je 25. aprila praznoval 92. rojstni dan, je najstarejši slovenskiudeleženec poletnih olimpijskih iger. V Londonu je leta 1948 kot članjugoslovanskega moštva nastopil v teku na 400 m in v štafeti 4 x 400 m.»Potovali smo elegantno, z Orient expressom do Pariza, kjer smo prestopilina direktni vlak za London, ki je zapeljal na trajekt čez Rokavski prelivin nas pripeljal na cilj,« se spominja poti na olimpijske igre. A povojnoobdobje je bilo tudi čas pomanjkanja. »Ker so rekli, da bo hrana slabša,smo morali s seboj pripeljati cele kartonaste škatle salam, ki pa so bilenekaj dni po našem prihodu, ko smo jih odprli, vse plesnive.« Navodilovodstva reprezentance, kako naj tekmuje, je bilo precej nenavadno: najže od samega začetka teče hitro, da bo v čast mladi jugoslovanski državi.»Po 300 metrih sem imel tako trde noge, da nisem vedel, ali bom splohpritekel do cilja. Ampak zgodil se je skoraj čudež, bil sem drugi v skupiniin se uvrstil v četrtfinale.« V nadaljnje tekmovanje se sicer ni prebil, a jena svoj olimpijski nastop upravičeno ponosen. »To je nekaj, kar te spremljavse življenje. Kamorkoli pridem, rečejo, da sem olimpijec, čepravnisem osvojil medalje.«Že kot 11-letni fantič, ki je skupaj s štirimi brati in sestrami živel v Rožnidolini v Ljubljani, kjer je njegov oče, ravnatelj Zavoda za žensko domačoobrt, kupil manjšo hišo, je telovadil pri Sokolu. »Poleti smo se ukvarjalitudi z atletiko. Nekoč sem v teku na 100 m, ki se je odvijal na stezi obnogometnem stadionu za današnjo bencinsko črpalko na Viču, dosegeldober čas, kar je bilo objavljeno v časopisu, ki je poročal o dejavnostihsokolov. Kmalu potem se je oglasil trener iz Ilirije, enega od treh predvojnihljubljanskih atletskih klubov, in začel sem trenirati. Prvič sem kot atletnastopil prav na svoj rojstni dan leta 1937. Oče nad tem ni bil navdušen,prav tako ni bilo posluha na učiteljišču, ki sem ga kasneje obiskoval. Tekmovalismo celo pod izmišljenimi imeni. Jaz sem si omislil priimek Čičar,torej svoj priimek, prebran v nasprotni smeri …,« se smeje ob spominihna neke danes težko pojmljive čase.»Leta 1938 sem bil še kot mladinec rezerva v jugoslovanski članski štafeti 4x 100 m, ki je nastopila v Beogradu na balkanskih igrah, in bi bil zato skorajizključen iz šole. Nisem se mogel pravočasno vrniti domov, da bi ujel začetekpouka, ki se je tedaj začenjal 15. septembra. A sem se obrnil na Draga Ulago,ki je takrat služboval v Beogradu na ministrstvu za ljudsko telesno vzgojo.

OLIMPIJEC MARKO RAČIČ - LEGENDAUlaga, ki je bil prvi Slovenec z visokošolsko športno izobrazbo, mi je izdalpotrdilo, ki me je rešilo pred izključitvijo. Dobil sem ’le’ ukor.«Po končanem učiteljišču je dobil službo v Zgornjem Tuhinju. A že po nekajmesecih se je njegova šolniška kariera za vedno končala; zaradi začetkavojne se je vrnil v Ljubljano. Iz istega razloga se je za več let prekinila njegovašportna pot. Medvojna leta je preživel kot uslužbenec na železnici. »Leta1940 sem na prigovarjanje prijatelja prestopil iz Ilirije v takratno železničarskošportno društvo Hermes in to je kasneje, ko so Ljubljano okupirali Italijani,svojim članom pomagalo tako, da so nas zaposlili na železnici, kjer smobili kolikor toliko varni pred aretacijami in preganjanji.« Dve leti je služboval vČrnomlju in iz tega obdobja se spominja tudi, kako je pestoval igralca RadkaPoliča Raca. »V Črnomlju smo se tisti, ki smo bili povezani z Osvobodilnofronto, dobivali pri Poličevih. Radko, Racev oče, je bil tedaj v partizanih innjegova žena ga je dvakrat obiskala. Vsakič se je potem rodil otrok; eden odnjiju je bil Rac …«Takoj po vojni, junija 1945, mu je prišel pred oči razpis višje šole za telesnokulturo v Beogradu, kamor je odšel na sprejemne izpite in jih opravil boljekot kdorkoli drug. Še isto leto je tudi postal prvak Jugoslavije v teku na 200metrov. »Slovenski atleti, za razliko od Hrvatov, ki so trenirali in tekmovaliza NDH (Nezavisno državo Hrvatsko), in Srbov, med vojno nismo treniraliin tekmovali. Tako smo se vključili v kulturni molk, ki ga je razglasilaOsvobodilna fronta. Zato je bilo veliko presenečenje, ko sem po vseganekaj mesecih treninga postal državni prvak.« Ta naslov je v tekih na 100 in200 metrov ter v štafetah, kjer je dosegel kar 18 državnih rekordov, osvojilše večkrat. Tudi na 200 in 300 metrov je večkrat izboljšal državni rekord. Zajugoslovansko reprezentanco je nastopil tridesetkrat, poleg londonskiholimpijskih iger tudi na dveh evropskih prvenstvih pa na balkanskih insredozemskih igrah, meddržavnih dvobojih …V Beogradu je ostal 20 let. V tem času je doštudiral na DIF-u (Državneminštitutu za fizkulturo) in odslužil vojaško obveznost. Resno je tekmoval doleta 1952, kasneje pa le še občasno. Leta 1953 je za nekaj mesecev odšelna dodatno športno izobraževanje na Švedsko. »Znal sem kolikor tolikonemško, in so me poslali. Takrat sem obžaloval, da se nisem bolje naučilnemščine. Pred vojno me je treniral Otto Klein, po rodu Avstrijec, ki je bilnekakšen glavni atletski trener Dravske banovine, kamor je tedaj spadalprecejšen del Slovenije. Znal je slovensko, a me je kot gimnazijca vprašal,če bi se morda raje pogovarjal v nemščini. Takrat smo bilo proti Nemcemže precej nastrojeni, in sem to zavrnil.«Še v času aktivne kariere in študija je poleg samega sebe treniral še vrstodrugih atletov, sicer pa je bil kot profesor telesne vzgoje zaposlen vjugoslovanski vojski, kjer je predaval na vojaških šolah in akademijah. Vletih 1960–1968 je bil selektor ženske državne atletske reprezentance. Kotstrokovni opazovalec in sodelavec je bil prisoten na letnih olimpijskih igrahv Rimu, Münchnu in Montrealu ter na zimskih v Innsbrucku in Sarajevu. Leta1965 se je z družino – poročil se je z dekletom, ki jo je poznal še iz otroštva– vrnil v Ljubljano. Vsa nadaljnja leta je bil dejavno vpet v atletiko kot sodnik,trener, funkcionar, statistik … Prav na področju statistike so njegove zaslugeizjemne: slovenska in jugoslovanska atletika bi brez številnih publikacij, kijih je pripravil, vedela o svojih koreninah veliko manj, kot ve. Kot mojstratega področja so ga povabili k organizaciji olimpijskih iger v Sarajevu l.1984, kjer je s svojo izredno natančnostjo in organizacijskimi sposobnostmiskrbel, da so bili rezultati in številni drugi podatki vedno pravočasno na voljonovinarjem, funkcionarjem, javnosti ... Kasneje je sodeloval še pri organizacijiUniverzijade v Zagrebu, evropskega atletskega prvenstva v Splitu in številnihdrugih tekmovanj.Marko Račič je še vedno zelo dejaven pri organizaciji atletskih tekmovanj,pripravlja svojo biografijo, ukvarja se z atletsko statistiko. Na vprašanje,kako je pri svojih letih tako čil, odgovarja, da so to geni. »Moj oče je umrlza pljučnico, star 93 let,« pravi. In pa zmernost: »Ne ukvarjam se obsedenos športom, kot to počnejo mnogi moji znanci. Nikoli nisem bil asket, anikoli tudi nisem v ničemer pretiraval. Vedno sem se držal načela svojegapredavatelja fiziologije, ki je zagovarjal 'zakon zmerne obremenitve'. Tudikot atlet sem dal na tekmovanju vse od sebe, na treningu pa me ni kajdosti motilo, če so bili drugi boljši.«»Telovadbi« pa pripisuje zasluge, da je njegov spomin kljub letom ševedno izvrsten: mnenja je, da ga je najbrž prav statistika, to nenehnopretresanje podatkov, ohranila bistrega. Več kot dobro tudi ve, da za temina videz suhoparnimi številkami stojijo življenja ljudi, ki so se, podobnokot on, strastno predajali svoji veliki ljubezni – atletiki. Morda je pravzato Marko Račič tako veder, pozitiven človek. Tako ne more biti nobenopresenečenje, da je med priznanji, ki krasijo njegov dom, tudi »odličje« znapisom »Najboljši dedi na svetu«.78

»Tekmovalismo celo podizmišljenimiimeni. Jaz sem siomislil priimekČičar, torejsvoj priimek,prebran vnasprotnismeri …«79

Olympic Athlete and LegendMarko RačičTEXT: MARJAN ŽIBERNAPHOTOGRAPHY: Igor Lapajne and Marko Račič’s private archiveAmong the countless medals and plaques testifying tohis long and active life, his living room also houses a cupbearing the inscription “Legend”. It was given to him by “his”Slovenian Athletics Federation. And that is what MarkoRačič truly is – a legend.I have known him – at least by sight – for some 30 years now. When I wasstill in primary school and the irresistible attraction of athletics was just beginningto draw me in, I would often see Mr. Račič in track and field stadiums– a slim, silver-haired, lively man keeping a watchful eye over the competitionsto make sure that everything was in accordance with the rules and inthe spirit of fair play. In the following years, that was the environment where Iwould frequently encounter him. In the last decade, our paths crossed muchless often, but whenever they did, I would regularly be astonished at howlittle he had changed in the mean time; it was as if time had barely touchedhim. When I stopped by at his home in the Ljubljana quarter of Šiška at theend of April, I noticed yet again how full of life he is. As usual, he had a heapof plans and commitments in connection with athletics, the thing thatmeans most to him after his family.On 25 April, Marko Račič celebrated his 92nd birthday. He is the oldest survivingSlovenian athlete who took part in the summer Olympics. As a member ofthe Yugoslav Olympic team, he competed in the 400m dash and the 4x400mrelay race in 1948 in London. “We travelled in style; we took the Orient Expressto Paris where we switched to a direct train to London. The train was loadedonto a ferry to cross the Channel and bring us to our destination,” Mr. Račič remembershis journey to the Olympic Games. But the post-war period was alsoa time of shortages. “They told us that the food there wouldn’t be much good,so we had to bring a few cardboard boxes of salami with us. But by the timewe opened the boxes a few days after our arrival in London, they were coveredin mould.” He also received rather unusual instructions from the national teammanagement on how he should run the race – he was told to run as fast ashe could from the very start in order to bring honour to the young country ofYugoslavia. “After 300m, my legs were so stiff that I wasn’t sure whether I wouldeven make it to the finish. But thanks to something close to a miracle, I finishedsecond and made it to the quarter-final.” While Mr. Račič did not make it to thenext round of the competition, he is justifiably proud of his participation in theOlympics. “It’s something that stays with you for the rest of your life. Wherever Igo, they call me an Olympian, even though I didn’t win a medal.”He spent his childhood in a small house in Ljubljana’s Rožna dolina quarter. Hehad four siblings, and his father was the director of the Institute for Women’sHandicrafts. Even as an 11-year-old boy, Marko was a member of the Sokolgymnastics organisation. “In the summer, we sometimes did athletics. At one100m race on the track in the football stadium behind where the filling stationstands today in Vič, I achieved a good result and it was published in thenewspaper that reported about Sokol activities. Soon after, I was contacted byan Ilirija coach – one of the three pre-war athletics clubs in Ljubljana – and Istarted my training.My first appearance as an athlete was on my birthday in1937. My father was not happy about it. I didn’t find much understanding atthe teachers’ training college I attended later either," he laughs, rememberinga difficult era long ago that we find hard to imagine today. We would evencompete under made-up names. I chose the surname Čičar, which was myown surname read backwards …” laughs Mr. Račič, remembering a difficultera long ago that we find hard to imagine today.“In 1938, still in the youth team, I was the reserve runner for the Yugoslavnational team competing in the 4x100m dash at the Balkan Games inBelgrade. I was almost expelled from school because of it. I wasn’t able tocome back home before school started, which was on 15 September in thosedays. But I contacted Drago Ulaga; at that time, he worked in Belgrade atthe Ministry of Public Health Education. Ulaga, the first Slovenian to have auniversity-level education in sports, gave me a certificate that saved me fromexpulsion. In the end, I was only reprimanded.”After graduating from teachers’ training college, he found work in ZgornjiTuhinj. But just a few months later, his brief teaching career was over forever;he returned to Ljubljana when the war broke out. For the same reason, hissports career was on hold for several years. He spent the war years workingfor the railway. “In 1940, my friend convinced me to change from Ilirija toHermes, which was the railway’s sports club at the time. Later, when Ljubljanawas under Italian occupation, Hermes helped its members to get jobs at therailway, where we were relatively safe from persecution and arrests.” For twoyears, he worked in Črnomelj; one of his memories from this time is holding thebaby who would grow up to become the actor Radko Polič – Rac. “In Črnomelj,those of us with connections to the Liberation Front would meet in the Poličhouse. Radko, Rac’s father, had joined the partisans and his wife went to visithim twice. After each visit, a baby was born; one of them was Rac …”Soon after the war, in June 1945, he noticed a call for applications published bythe college of physical education in Belgrade; he took the entrance examinationand scored higher than any other applicant. That very same year,he became the Yugoslav champion in the 200m dash. “Unlike Croats, whotrained and competed for the NDH (Independent State of Croatia), and Serbs,Slovenian athletes didn’t train and compete during the war. It was our wayof joining the cultural embargo declared by the Liberation Front. So it was agreat surprise when I became the national champion after just a few monthsof training.” He would win this title several times more in the 100m and 200mdashes and in relay races, where he set 18 national records. He also set severalnational records in the 200m and 300m dashes. As a member of the Yugoslavnational team, he took part in thirty competitions, from the London OlympicGames and two European championships to the Balkan and MediterraneanGames, competitions against other national teams, etc.He remained in Belgrade for 20 years. During this time, he finished his studiesat the National Institute of Physical Education and completed his militaryservice. He competed seriously until 1952 and occasionally after that. In 1953,he was sent to Sweden for a few months for additional sports education. “Icould speak some German, so they sent me. I regretted then that I hadn’t learntmore German. Before the war, my coach was Otto Klein, who was Austrian bybirth; he was more or less the leading athletics coach in the Drava Banovina,which covered a large part of Slovenia at the time. He could speak Slovenian,but since I was in the upper secondary school, he asked me if I’d prefer to talk inGerman. At that time, we were quite opposed to Germans already, so I refused.”80

Olympic Athlete Marko RačičWe would even compete under made-up names. I chose the surnameČičar, which was my own surname read backwards …” laughs Mr.Račič, remembering a difficult era long ago that we find hard toimagine today.During his active career and studies, he trained a number of other athletes inaddition to himself; later, he was employed as a professor of physical educationin the Yugoslav army, lecturing at military schools and academies.From 1960 to 1968, he was the selector of the women’s national athletics team.As an expert observer and contributor, he attended the summer OlympicGames in Rome, Munich and Montreal as well as the winter Olympic Gamesin Innsbruck and Sarajevo. In 1965, he returned to Ljubljana with his family; hehad married a girl whom he knew since they were children. In the followingdecades, he remained actively involved in athletics as a referee, coach, officialand statistician. He made some extraordinary achievements in statistics; itis largely owing to the countless publications he compiled that we know asmuch about the history of Slovenian and Yugoslav athletics as we do. As anexpert in this field, he was invited to participate in the organisation of theSarajevo Olympics in 1984. His unfailing accuracy and organisational abilitiesensured that the results and other relevant information were always quicklymade available to reporters, officials and the public. Later he also participatedin the organisation of the Universiade in Zagreb, the European athletics championshipin Split and many other competitions.Marko Račič remains highly involved in organising athletics competitions; heis also working on his autobiography and still compiles statistics related to athletics.When I marvel at how fit he is considering his age, he says it is all downto good genes. “My father died of pneumonia at 93,” he tells me. He also oweshis fitness to moderation: “I don’t exercise as obsessively as a lot of the people Iknow. I was never exactly ascetical, but I never overdid anything either. I havealways followed the principle of my physiology lecturer; he believed in ‘the lawof moderate loading.’ Even as an athlete, I would give it my all at competitions,but I never minded if others beat me in training.”The credit for his memory, still excellent despite his age, goes to “exercise” – he believesthat it is statistics, the constant sifting through piles of data, that has kepthis mind so sharp. He is also well aware that behind these numbers, so tedious atfirst glance, there are the lives of people who shared his passion for athletics, theirgreatest love. Perhaps that is why Marko Račič is such a cheerful and positiveperson. It is no surprise to find among the many cups and medals decorating hishome a plaque with the inscription “The World’s Greatest Grandpa”.81

080

Reka in šaman:vrnitevNA začetekBESEDILO: MARKO FRELIHFOTOGRAFIJE iz Venezuele: Charles Brewer CaríasFOTOGRAFIJE z razstave: Rafael SantanaFOTOGRAFIJE predmetov: Arhiv Fundacije CisnerosV Slovenskem etnografskem muzeju bo še do začetka septembra 2012 odprtavelika gostujoča razstava z naslovom »Orinoco – Indijanci amazonskega deževnegagozda«. Razstava je nastala v sodelovanju s Fundacijo Cisneros (FundaciónCisneros), ki razpolaga z izjemno muzejsko zbirko predmetov manj znanihetničnih skupin v Venezueli. Iz nervoznega vsakdanjega sveta, prepredenega zdigitalizacijo in globalizacijo, vzbudi vstop v muzejske sobane skoraj slehernemuobiskovalcu občutek, da se je znašel v čarobnem okolju, v katerem prinašajopredmeti, slike in teksti osrednje, zelo preprosto sporočilo razstave: Človek jedel narave, zato naj živi z njo v harmoniji!83

REKA IN ŠAMAN: VRNITEV NA ZAČETEKV spremenjenem stanju doživi vizijo, v kateriodpotuje v neznani svet onostranstva in lahkoobvladuje neskončne dimenzije –od podzemlja do nebeških višav.Okoli 600 eksponatov je razstavljenih po sklopih, ki vodijo obiskovalca izenega prostora v drugega. Najprej je predstavljeno naravno geografskookolje Venezuele, od koder izhajajo ljudstva, zastopana na razstavi. Uvodv srečanje z njimi je izjemno slikovita narava z nenavadnimi rastlinami inživalmi. Ta ljudstva spoznavamo po njihovih osnovnih značilnostih, tudipo nakitu in barvanju obraza in telesa. Nakit je tako kot glavnina eksponatovnarejen iz naravnih materialov. Ker razstava omenja slavno reko, jerazumljivo, da je prikazan način ribolova in življenja na njej in ob njej. Medročnimi izdelki prevladujejo košare in pladnji. Bogata paleta izdelkov je šeposebej zanimiva zaradi nenavadnih motivov, povezanih z mitološkimizgodbami. Domačini stalno živijo v stiku z mitičnimi predniki in duhovipragozda. Vse se med seboj prepleta in takšno 'prepletanje' najdemo tudiv pletarskih mojstrovinah.Na razstavi zagotovo pritegne največjo pozornost duhovni svet staroselcev,ki je največkrat povezan s šamanskimi obredi. Šaman ima glavno vlogo vstrukturi družbe. Odgovoren je za njeno homogeno delovanje in rešuje vsetežave, ki se pojavijo od znotraj (npr. bolezni, prepiri) ali od zunaj (npr. napadsovražnika). Prav tako se 'spopade' z nevihto, grmenjem in drugimi naravnimikatastrofami. Odgovoren je za dobro letino in uspešen ulov. Šaman jetisti, ki pozna pot do duhov pragozda. Za obred se vedno skrbno pripravi, šeposebej je natančen pri krašenju telesa in uporabi zdravilnih pripomočkov.Na razstavi so prikazani različni šamanski rekviziti in okrasje, med katerimizstopajo t. i. pernate krone. Sestavljene so iz pletene vlaknaste osnove, nakatero je pritrjeno perje svetih ptic: rumeno, rdeče in zeleno perje macawa,oranžno tukanovo, zeleno papigino in črno perje curassowa. Skozi trans, kiga doseže s pomočjo psihoaktivnih sredstev, kot je npr. rastlina jopo, stopiv stik z bogovi in gozdnimi duhovi ter mitičnimi predniki. V spremenjenemstanju doživi vizijo, v kateri odpotuje v neznani svet onostranstva in lahkoobvladuje neskončne dimenzije – od podzemlja do nebeških višav. Šamanizemima med domačini v venezuelskem pragozdu zelo veliko arhaičnihpotez in je v marsičem podoben obredom nekdanjih šamanov v Sibiriji. Toso tiste oblike (npr. plezanje na kozmično drevo, preobrazba v ptico), ki sozelo univerzalne in jih pozna veliko starih kultur.Harmonija pa ni prisotna samo v okolju, kjer živijo staroselci deževnegapragozda, ampak zajema dimenzije celotnega vesolja. To ponazarja tudiobred Warime, ki ga pozna ljudstvo De’áruwa (Piaroa). Ob plesu in glasbipojejo o stvarjenju, poveličujejo rodovitnost narave in ji izražajo svojohvaležnost. V mističnem obredu se obračajo k mitološkim prednikom,divjim prašičem. Plesalci imajo celo telo prekrito z oblačili iz ličja, na glavipa konično pokrivalo, ki predstavlja divjega prašiča. Obred izvajajo samomoški. Ženske spremljajo nastop plesalcev z velikim navdušenjem, saj je toosrednji dogodek za celotno skupnost, ki zagotavlja obilje v prihodnosti inhkrati poveže vse prisotne z božanskimi silami prednikov.Na razstavi v Slovenskem etnografskem muzeju je Warime predstavljen vzadnjem prostoru in obredna oblačila ustvarjajo videz negibnih statuet.Toda čim dlje jih gledaš, tem bolj si prepričan, da se bodo nevidni plesalcivsak trenutek premaknili.84

RIVER AND SHAMAN: A RETURN TO THE BEGINNINGRiver and Shaman:A Return to theBeginningTEXT: MARKO FRELIHPHOTOGRAPHY FROM VENEZUELA: Charles Brewer CaríasPHOTOGRAPHY FROM the exhibition: Rafael SantanaPHOTOGRAPHY OF EXHIBITS: Cisneros Foundation ArchiveUp until early September 2012, the Slovene EthnographicMuseum will be hosting an extensive touring exhibitionentitled “Orinoco – Indians of the Amazon Rainforest”. Theexhibition was created in cooperation with the CisnerosFoundation (Fundación Cisneros), which holds anextraordinary museum collection of objects from a numberof less well known ethnic groups in Venezuela. Stepping outfrom the nerve-wracking, digital, global world of today andinto the museum rooms, visitors feel as though they haveentered a magical environment in which objects, images andtexts communicate the central message of the exhibition. Themessage is very simple: People are a part of nature, so theyshould be living in harmony with nature.There are some 600 objects exhibited in sections that guide the visitor fromone room to the next. First we are introduced to the natural and geographicalenvironment of Venezuela, the home of the peoples represented in theexhibition. The picturesque nature, filled with unusual plants and strangeanimals, serves as the introduction to the ethnic groups of Venezuela. Welearn about them through their basic characteristics, including the jewellerythey wear and the style in which they paint their faces and bodies. Like themajority of exhibits, the jewellery is made of natural materials. Since the title ofthe exhibition refers to the famous river, it is understandable that fishing andthe way of life on the river are also depicted. Among the handmade artefacts,baskets and trays are the most commonly represented. The wide array ofobjects is made particularly interesting by the unusual motifs connected withvarious mythological stories. The natives have remained in touch with theirmythical ancestors and the spirits of the rainforest. Everything is intertwined,and this type of intertwining continues in the masterpieces of weaving art.The most interesting thing to discover at the exhibition is undoubtedly theindigenous people’s spiritual world, which typically includes shamanic rituals.The shaman plays the most important part in the structure of the society. He isresponsible for its homogeneity and solves any problems stemming from theinside (e.g. illnesses, arguments) or the outside (e.g. enemy attack). The shamanwill also “deal with” storms, thunder and other natural disasters. He is responsiblefor a good harvest and successful hunting. The shaman knows how tocommunicate with the spirits of the rainforest. He always prepares meticulouslyfor any ritual and is particularly careful when it comes to decorating thebody or using medicine. The exhibition includes a number of shaman’s tools86

RIVER AND SHAMAN: A RETURN TO THE BEGINNINGand decorations, among which the feather crowns are particularly stunning.These crowns consist of a base made of woven fibres, to which feathers of sacredbirds have been attached: yellow, red and green macaw feathers, orangetoucan feathers, green parrot feathers and black curassow feathers. Using psychoactivesubstances such as the yopo plant, the shaman goes into a tranceand is able to contact gods, spirits of the forest and mythical ancestors. In thisaltered state, he experiences a vision in which he travels into an unknownworld, into the beyond, where he has the power to control endless dimensionsfrom the nether world to the heavens. The shamanism that is practiced in theethnic groups of the Venezuelan rainforest has many archaic characteristics;in many ways, it is similar to the rituals once performed by shamans in Siberia.These rituals (e.g. climbing the cosmic tree, transformation into a bird) arehighly universal and typical of many ancient cultures.There is harmony in the environment inhabited by the indigenous rainforestpeoples; it is the same harmony that encompasses the dimensions of the entireuniverse. This is symbolised in the Warime ritual performed by the De’áruwa(Piaroa) people. Accompanied by dancing and music, they sing about creation,praise the fertility of nature and express their gratitude to nature. In thismystical ritual, they also address wild boars, their mythological ancestors.The dancers cover their bodies with bast clothing and wear conical hats ontheir heads. The hats represent wild boars. The ritual is performed solely bymen. The women watch the dancers with great enthusiasm – this is an eventof the highest importance for the whole community; it ensures that they willcontinue to live in abundance and establishes a connection between peopleand the divine forces of their ancestors.At the exhibition in the SlovenianEthnographic Museum, Warimeis presented in the final room,with ritual clothing giving theappearance of motionless statues.The longer you spend lookingat them, however, the moreyou are convinced that theinvisible dancers are justabout to burst into movement.87

086ViolinistGIUSEPPEtARTINIPonos PiranaBESEDILO IN FOTOGRAFIJE:dr. METODA KOKOLE (ZRC SAZU)IGOR LAPAJNE (ZRC SAZU)

VIOLINIST GIUSEPPE TARTININa skrajnem jugozahodnem delu Slovenije, kjer se modrivalovi Jadranskega morja zaganjajo v bele skale nasipov,se dviguje starodavno mesto Piran. Zgodnejše naselje jesvojo današnjo obliko dobilo v času, ko je mesto še sodilopod upravo Beneške republike, ki je trajala od konca 13.stoletja do leta 1797. Piran z zaledjem je še danes uradnodvojezično slovensko-italijansko mesto.Prav beneška arhitektura in kulturni vplivi somu dali odločilen pečat, ki je na vsakem korakuviden še danes. Tipično mediteransko mesto jestisnjeno na ozek jezik kopnine in s svojimi ozkimiulicami in strminami, ki vodijo do osupljivihrazglednih točk, je povečini uspelo ohraniti svojekulturnozgodovinsko bogastvo, ki privabljaštevilne obiskovalce iz celega sveta.V tem mestu se je v zatonu zlate dobe beneškegačasa rodil Giuseppe, četrti otrok mestnegaveljaka, uspešnega trgovca in lastnika več posestiv bližnjem Strunjanu, Giovannija AntoniaTartinija po rodu iz Firenc, in njegove piranskežene Catterine, rojene Zangrando. Krščen je bil8. aprila 1692 v tedaj novozgrajeni krstilnici obzvoniku in bogato opremljeni župni cerkvi sv.Jurija, ki se dviga na vrhu griča visoko nad impozantnimiloki obokov obzidanega morskegaobrežja. V družinski hiši tik ob starem notranjemmestnem pristanišču je Giuseppe Tartini, ki seje pozneje neizbrisno zapisal med najslavnejšeglasbenike svojega časa, preživljal svoja brezskrbnaotroška leta.Velika hiša, ki jo je prav glasbenikov oče razširilv današnjo velikost, še danes kraljuje med pomembnimimestnimi stavbami na osrednjem piranskemtrgu, urejenem na notranjem mestnempristanišču, ki je bilo leta 1894 zasuto. V okviruvelikopotezno zasnovanih prireditev ob dvestotiobletnici rojstva najslavnejšega meščana, »prvevioline Evrope«, »učitelja narodov«, skladateljain glasbenega misleca so novi trg poimenovaliTartinijev trg in na njem postavili violinistov bronastikip. Tartini ima vse od takrat prvenstvo medkulturnimi poudarki, ki jih vsak obiskovalec zaznaob prihodu v staro mestno jedro Pirana.89

VIOLINIST GIUSEPPE TARTINIHiša Tartini, danes sedež Skupnosti Italijanov GiuseppeTartini Piran, je lepo obnovljena in gostiza javnost odprto spominsko sobo, posvečenoGiuseppu Tartiniju. Za to skrbi Pokrajinski muzej»Sergej Mašera« Piran. V njej so poleg ene odohranjenih mojstrovih violin še nekateri osebnipredmeti in več dokumentov, izposojenih izzbirk Pokrajinskega arhiva. Zadnji hrani velikdel glasbenikove korespondence in njegovihspisov o glasbi. Med njimi so tudi nekatera dela,ki so bistveno vplivala na razvoj evropskegaviolinizma v 18. stoletju.Tudi sosednja cerkvica sv. Petra se od Tartinijevegačasa ni mnogo spremenila, in če sedesno od nje po ozki kamnito tlakovani ulicipovzpnemo nekaj deset metrov, smo že predvhodom v starodavni samostan, v katerem šedanes domujejo mali bratje iz reda sv. Frančiška.Slikovit križni hodnik in ob njem ležeča cerkevsta prav taka, kot ju je poznal mladi GiuseppeTartini, ki se je tam nedvomno večkrat mudil ssvojim uglednim in premožnim očetom; ta jepostal leta 1699 zaščitnik tega samostana inpridobil pravico do družinske grobnice, ki senahaja v sredini cerkvene ladje.Giuseppe Tartini je bil vse življenje na raznenačine povezan s tem redom. Oče ga jeprvotno namenil za redovnika ali duhovnika, ase je ognjeviti mladenič, ki je bil pri šestnajstihletih poslan v Padovo, raje odločil za neduhovnoživljenje. Slovel je kot odličen mečevalec.Pri osemnajstih letih se je poročil, zaradi česarje moral zbežati. Zatekel se je v minoritskisamostan v Assisiju, kjer se je posvetil glasbi inviolini. Prav njegova izvrstna igra na to glasbilomu je v naslednjih letih pomagala iz anonimnostiv vrh evropske glasbene elite. Ustalil seje v Padovi, kjer je z izjemo triletnega premorav Pragi deloval kot violinist, učitelj, skladatelj inglasbeni mislec vse do smrti leta 1770. Pokopanje v Padovi.Giuseppe Tartini je pustil neizbrisen pečat vevropski glasbeni kulturi predvsem kot inventivnivirtuoz na violini in pedagog. Njegovo šoloso spoštljivo imenovali »šola narodov«, saj jeimel poleg italijanskih tudi učence iz Francije,Nemčije, Dalmacije itd. Ustvaril je blizu 400del za violino, predvsem koncertov in sonat,med katerimi je zagotovo najslavnejša tista, kijo spremlja romantično obarvana zgodba onadnaravnem izvoru, Vražji trilček, ki naj bi gaTartini zapisal na podlagi sanj, v katerih mu jeleta 1713 sonato zaigral sam vrag.Veliki violinist ni nikoli pozabil rodnega Piranain družine. Z bratom in predvsem nečakom si jebolj ali manj redno dopisoval in jima z oporokozapustil svoje imetje. Zato se danes v Piranunahaja bogata zapuščina njegovih rokopisov,korespondence in teoretskih razprav, ena od90

VIOLINIST GIUSEPPE TARTINIViolina, na katero je zelo verjetno igral tudi Tartini, je danes eksponatv Tartinijevi spominski sobi, za njeno vitalnost pa redno skrbi mladislovenski violinist Žiga Faganel in z njo občasno tudi nastopa.njegovih violin ter nekaj osebnih predmetov.Tartinijeva glasbena dela so ostala v arhivupadovanske bazilike oz. pri njegovih učencih.Mesto Piran je seveda na svojega slavnegameščana in glasbenika ponosno in njegovo prisotnostje zaznati na vseh nivojih. Po GiuseppuTartiniju se imenujeta osrednji trg s spomenikomin njegova rojstna hiša, v imenu ga nosiSkupnost Italijanov v tem mestu, prav tako enaod osrednjih mestnih kulturnih ustanov GledališčeTartini, obiskovalci lahko bivajo v HoteluTartini, kjer pijejo čaj iz Tartinijevih skodelic in sinazdravijo z vinom znamke Giuseppe Tartini, alipa si v Čokoladnici na Tartinijevem trgu kupijoslastne praline linije Giuseppe Tartini.Za prisotnost duha osebnosti in glasbe GiuseppaTartinija med meščani in obiskovalci najzvestejeskrbi že imenovana Skupnost Italijanov, ki od leta1996 vsako leto v aprilu in vse do poletnih mesecevpripravlja sklope prireditev Omaggio a Tartini– Poklon Tartiniju. Te obsegajo od koncertov, razstav,strokovnih srečanj do otroških delavnic. Sicerpa poleti redno poteka tudi glasbeni festival Tartini.Poleg najširši publiki namenjenih prireditevse je Tartinija od leta 1992 že trikrat še posebejspomnila tudi muzikološka stroka. Osrednja znanstvenaustanova, ki se ukvarja s starejšo glasbenodediščino, Muzikološki inštitut ZRC SAZU, botako v letu 2013 ponovno priredil mednarodnoštudijsko srečanje, namenjeno razpravi o stanjuraziskav življenja in dela Giuseppa Tartinija.Še posebno živahno je v Piranu letošnje leto, sajvse kulturne ustanove v mestu združene praznujejookroglo 320. obletnico rojstva GiuseppaTartinija. V aprilu se je že zvrstila vrsta dogodkov,koncerti, predstavitev novonapisanegaromana o Tartiniju, odprtje številnih razstavitd., ki domačine in obiskovalce opozarjajo naGiuseppa Tartinija. Koncerti se nadaljujejo v poletnihmesecih in v načrtu je prenova spominskesobe pa izdaja CD-ja s Tartinijevo glasbo itd.Ponos in spomin na Giuseppa Tartinija v Piranuživita in se bosta nedvomno uresničevala vnajrazličnejših oblikah tudi v prihodnosti.91

The Violinist Giuseppe Tartini –The Pride of Piran/PiranoTEXT: METODA KOKOLE, PhD (ZRC SAZU)PHOTOGRAPHY: IGOR LAPAJNE (ZRC SAZU)At the southwesternmost point of Slovenia, wherethe blue waves of the Adriatic Sea caress the whiterocks of the reinforced shore, stands the ancienttown of Piran/Pirano. The earlier settlement grewinto its current form during the time between thelate 13th century and 1797 when the town wasstill governed by the Republic of Venice. Piran andits surroundings have survived as a bilingual areauntil the modern day, with Slovenian and Italianas the official languages. It was the Venetianarchitecture and cultural influences that gave thetown its characteristic nature and appearance thatstill define it today. A typical Mediterranean town,Piran is crowded on a small peninsula, its narrowstreets leading up a steep slope that rewards thevisitors with breathtaking panoramic views. Forthe most part, the town’s wealth of cultural andhistorical heritage have survived and still attractvisitors from all over the world.It was in this town, during the decline of thegolden Venetian age, that Giuseppe was born asthe fourth child of Giovanni Antonio Tartini andhis wife Catterina, née Zangrando, who was fromPiran. Born in Florence, Giovanni Antonio, a successfulmerchant and owner of several propertiesin the nearby Strunjan, became an importantcitizen of Piran. His son Giuseppe was christenedon 8 April 1692 in the newly built baptistery nextto the bell tower and the richly decorated parishchurch of St. George. The church stands on the topof the hill, rising high above the imposing archesof the sea shore embankment below. The Tartinifamily home was situated at the old inner harbour,and this is where Giuseppe Tartini, who would laterjoin the ranks of the most renowned musicians ofhis time, spent his carefree childhood years.Even in the present day, the large building – expandedto its current size by the musician’s father– continues to dominate the important townbuildings in the central Piran square, opened in1894 on the place of the drained old inner harbour.As part of the extensive celebrations commemoratingthe 200th birth anniversary of Piran’s mostfamous inhabitant, “the first violin of Europe”, “ theteacher of nations”, composer and music theorist,the new square was named after Tartini and abronze statue of the violinist was unveiled there.Ever since, Tartini has been the main focus of themany cultural highlights that visitors cannot fail tonotice when entering the old town centre of Piran.Today, the Tartini’s old home is the seat of the ItalianCommunity “Giuseppe Tartini” of Piran; it hasbeen beautifully renovated and houses a memorialroom dedicated to Giuseppe Tartini. The memorialroom is managed by the “Sergej Mašera” RegionalMuseum of Piran. In addition to one of the preservedviolin, once played by the virtuoso Tartini, the roomexhibits include also some of his personal items anda number of original documents on loan from theRegional Archives, keeper of a number of Tartini’sletters and writings about music. Some of these writingshave fundamentally affected the developmentof European violinism in the 18th century.The neighbouring church of St. Peter has notchanged much since Tartini’s days either; a walk upthe narrow paved street to the right of the churchleads to the entrance of the ancient Minoritemonastery still inhabited by the monks. The picturesquecloister and the church situated next to themonastery still look exactly as they did in Tartini’stime. Giuseppe was probably its frequent visitor ashis wealthy and influential father became in 1699one of the monastery’s benefactors, gaining thusthe right to the family tomb located in the middleof the nave.Throughout his life, Giuseppe Tartini was in variousways connected to the Order of the Minorites.Initially, his father intended him for church, but thefiery young man, sent by his family to Padua at sixteen,rather chose a secular life. He was renownedfor his fencing and at eighteen he married andwas consequently forced to escape from Padua. Hehid in the Minorite monastery in Assisi, where hefocused on music and violin. Due to his virtuosityon violin he rose from complete anonymity to the92

very top of the European music elite in the followingyears. Tartini eventually settled down in Padua,where – except for a three-year stay in Prague – hecontinued to work as violinist, teacher, composerand musical theorist until his death in 1770. He isburied in Padua.The Tartini family crypt in the Church of St.Francis (sv. Frančišek) near the Minoritemonastery.Giuseppe Tartini has left a deep imprint on the Europeanmusic culture. He was especially renownedas an inventive virtuoso on his instrument and apedagogue. His school was revered as “the schoolof nations” as beside Italian students he had pupilsfrom France, Germany, Dalmatia, etc. He wroteclose to 400 compositions for violin, prevailinglyconcertos and sonatas. The most famous of thelatter is undoubtedly the Devil’s Trill, according tothe a romantic legend of its supernatural origin,composed in 1713 after Tartini had allegedly dreamtof the Devil himself playing for him this sonata.The great violinist never forgot his native Piranand his family. He regularly corresponded with hisbrother and especially his nephew, bequeathinghim his worldly possessions. This is why Piran canboast today with a rich legacy of Tartini’s manuscripts,letters and theoretical discussions, oneof his violins and several personal items. Tartini’smusical works, however, remained in the hands ofhis pupils and employers and are now kept in thearchives of the Paduan Basilica.The town of Piran is justly proud of its famous‘son’ and musician. Giuseppe Tartini’s presencecan be felt everywhere. The main town square isnamed after the musician and is dominated byhis bronze statue. His birth house is called the TartiniHouse, and he gave name to the local Italiancommunity. The Tartini Theatre is one of Piran’sleading cultural institutions. Meanwhile, visitorsto the town can stay in the Hotel Tartini, drinktea from Tartini cups, toast with Giuseppe Tartiniwine or buy delicious Guiseppe Tartini pralinesfrom the chocolate shop in Tartini square.The spirit of Tartini’s personality and music has beenmost faithfully kept alive by the Italian Community“Giuseppe Tartini”. Since 1996 this institution hasbeen organising the Omaggio a Tartini – Homageto Tartini, a festival that runs from April through thesummer months and comprises countless concerts,exhibitions, lectures and children’s workshops. Additionally,the Tartini Festival of Music is held everysummer. Setting aside events aimed at the generalpublic, Tartini has been since 1992 at the focus ofalready three scholarly meetings. Another internationalmusicological conference dedicated to thestate of research on Giuseppe Tartini’s life and worksis planned for 2013 by the Institute of Musicology ofthe Scientific Research Centre of the Slovenian Academyof Sciences and Arts – the leading institutionspecialised in early music heritage in Slovenia.This year Giuseppe Tartini is in special focus ofvarious cultural institutions of Piran as they havejoined forces to celebrate the 320th anniversary ofhis birth. April has already seen a number of events,concerts, a presentation of a new novel aboutTartini, several exhibitions, etc., all of which keepthe memory of Tartini alive among inhabitantsof Piran and visitors alike. The concerts are set tocontinue in the summer months. There are plansfor the renovation of the memorial room, and anew CD with Tartini’s music is to come out soon.Giuseppe Tartini is the pride of Piran and a memoryof this illustrious musician is more than alive andwill undoubtedly continue in various ways also inthe future.93

092Razbiti santorinski stereotipiBESEDILO IN FOTOGRAFIJE: JOŽE BALASV iskanju»Atlantide«Kar pomnim, sem vedno potovalin odkrival svet v tako imenovani»low budget ruzak« izvedbi, panaj je šlo za bolivijski Altiplano aliBuenos Aires na zahodu, potepanje posulawesijskih gozdovih in kitajskihpuščavskih rokavih puščave Gobi navzhodu in nič drugače tudi po Evropi.

azbiti santorinski stereotipiTokrat sva si s prijateljico Lili na tak način privoščila tudi Santorini, le da sem namesto ’ruzaka’ vzel star kovček na koleščkih,pri tem pa pozabil svoje utrujene treking superge zamenjati z belimi sandali – in že zaradi tega sem močno izstopal medpotniki v letališki čakalnici, čeprav si tega res nisem želel.Santorini je res sanjski, vsaj tako se ga prodaja od 70. let, še posebej pa nekjeod 80. let prejšnjega stoletja, ko je film Sommer Lovers povzročil pravo invazijogeneracije mladih, ki so kot začarani iskali po otoku romantične kraje, nakaterih se je Darryl Hannah ljubila s svojimi soigralci. In ni minilo dosti časa,ko je Santorini zavladal kikladskemu otočju. Seveda se ta razcvet ne more inse tudi ne bo mogel nikoli primerjati z razcvetom skrivnostne minojske kulture,ki je nekoč cvetela na tem otoku, da ne govorimo o ugibanjih, da naj biprav ta vulkanski otok predstavljal zadnje ostanke legendarne Atlandite, čeže ni celo kriv za njeno uničenje in izginotje. No, sam vulkan je še vedno živ,zadnji izbruh, pa sploh ne tako tragičen, se je zgodil pred desetletji, danes pase na njegovem kraterju brezksrbno, a množično drenjajo turisti, ki v gosjemredu in pri skoraj 40 stopinjah dokaj neprijetne vročine dobesedno šibajogor in dol, pozirajo in se celo sončijo, tlačijo kamne v žepe in že hitijo nazaj vmajhno pristanišče, da ne zamudijo svoje ladje, trajekta ali pa kakšnega večjegačolna, ki vozi po točno določenem urniku in zamudnikov prav nič netolerira. Od tam hitijo na Thirasio, kjer si tisti najbolj utrujeni lahko za kakšnouro oddahnejo in mogoče celo kaj pojejo v kakšni od ne prav avtentičnih inprijetnih restavracij na obali; drugi pa se lahko sami ali pa s pomočjo osličkovpovzpnejo na kaldero otoka, od koder se razprostira prelep razgled na starvulkanski krater celotnega otoka oziroma na tisto, kar je po tisti nesrečniekploziji pred tisočletji od njega še ostalo. In če se te male restavracije nemorejo ravno pohvaliti s svežimi ribami in ostalimi morskimi specialitetami– v vasi je namreč ne samo premalo ribičev, ampak tudi prebivalcev –, dabi lahko nalovili in nahranili takšne trume turistov, ki se vsakodnevno valijov to malo pristaniško mesto, se malo bolj skromni turist lahko zadovolji tudis prijetno ledeno ohlajenim pivom in preprostim girosom, kljub velikemuladijskemu prometu pa tudi s kristalno čisto vodo, ki odlično regenerira pregretotelo. Tako kot mali Therasia tudi Santorini glede na število turistov samenostavno ne premore zadostiti vsem potrebam po gurmanskih užitkih,zato se velika večina hrane vozi tja s celine in okoliških otokov. Domačinise, če se že morajo, raje ukvarjajo s turizmom in njegovimi derivati kakor skakšno drugo dejavnostjo, saj enostavno ne morejo konkurirati grosističnim»uvoznikom«. Zato ne bodite presenečeni, če se bodo na vašem krožnikuznašle odmrzneje ribe, raki, hobotnice ... Restavracije in gostilne, ki bigostom lahko ponudile dnevno sveže ulovljene »domače« ribe, je namrečneverjetno težko najti. Mogoče še najlažje pri kakšnem domačinu ali pa vmanjšem družinskem penzionu, sveže ulovljene so namreč prodane že zacelo sezono vnaprej prestižnim restavracijam in hotelom. Enako je z ostalohrano, saj kakšnega razširjenega poljedelstva ni opaziti na obronkih vulkana,niti kmetij ne ali pa bog ne daj prašičjih ali kurjih farm – te bi se v tej vročiniprej zavohale; tovrstno meso je namreč kar pogosto tako na jedilnikih kottudi na samih krožnikih. Edino, kar je opaziti, so nasadi paradižnika – ta s Santorinijanaj bi dosegel svetovno slavo – in vinska trta; vinogradov je kar nekaj,zelo urejenih, napisi ob cestah vabijo v različne vinske kleti raznovrstnihvsebin. Drugače pa je Santorini poln lokalov, kjer ponujajo različne specialitetein še enkrat specialitete; in tu velja tako kot povsod po svetu za nasvetvprašati lokalce, saj je »turist trap« lokalov enostavno preveč, tako cenovnokot tudi po kvaliteti. In kadarkoli sva se ravnala po nasvetu domačinov, svajedla dobro in tudi poceni, in kadakoli sva lokal izbrala brez pomisleka, svabila lačna in praznih žepov. Kljub stereotipu, da je prehrana na Santorinijupregrešno draga, je to še en stereotip, ki ne velja. Veliko je lokalov, kjer seda jesti zelo dobro, celo odlično, pa se cene bistveno ne razlikujejo odpovprečnih cen pri nas. Že samo dejstvo, da ne jeste ob glavni ulici, ampakse zapeljete v sosednjo vas, kjer turistov skorajda ni, pomeni, da takega izletane boste nikoli pozabili.Santorini je seveda znan tudi po svojih vulkanskih črnih plažah. Posebnostjim daje že omenjeni vulkanski pesek, ki pa ga seveda ni na vsaki plaži. Največjain menda najbolj znana plaža je ’šodrasta’, nekatere so tudi kamnite,in kaj hitro te lahko nepredvidljvi morski valovi položijo po tleh. Na tehplažah se ponavadi niti ne gnete toliko turistov, kot bi človek pričakovalpo predhodnem jutranjem ogledovanju, so pa seveda urejene nekako pocenovnih razredih. Sem spadajo oblazinjena ležišča z mizicami, obveznosenco, »tlakovanimi« potmi ipd.96

Santorini je v prvi vrsti turističenotok, od tega živijo njegova slavain večina prebivalstva pa tudi tujcev.In brez skrbi, tudi tam se dapreživeti dopust sorazmernopoceni, kar razbija še ensterEotip o tem sanjskem otoku.97

azbiti santorinski stereotipiIn ker je poleti ponavadi peklensko vroče, bife pa je šele čez cesto, imatena voljo zvonec, ponekod tudi telefon, in vaša ohlajena bira je v trenutkupri vas. Seveda pa obstajajo tudi malo manj prestižne plaže, preproste,brez osnovne »infrastrukture«, zato pa daleč od ponorelega sveta.In čeprav se zdi, da je Santorini eno samo veliko turistično naselje, predstavljajonajvečjo nevarnost, da se zataknete v kakšni zakotni ulici, pravturisti s plavajočih hotelov, pravih križark, ki se drenjajo v pristanišču podpečinami. Domači vodniki jih s čolniči, avtobusi, pa tudi z osli tako rekočod zore do mraka prevažajo do pečin, na katerih domujejo značilne belevasice Fira, Imeroviglija in Oia. Ozke ulice se spremenijo v počasni multinacionalnigosji red, fotografiranje kakšnega portala ali pa zanimivega detajlaulice postane misija nemogoče. Polne so ulice, polne gostilne, restavracijein ’kafiči’, polne so ’štacune’. Takrat se zdi, da je še najbolje, da si poiščetehladno senco v eni od 120 cerkva na otoku.Pred ogledom mestnih znamenitosti vrh kaldere se splača najprej pogledativ pristanišče, kjer se proti popoldnevu sidrajo ogromne križarkein napovedujejo, da se je neznosno pretesnih ulic Oie najbolje izogniti;nekaj prostih motivov je le še pod milim nebom, pa še ta se že kakšnouro pred sončnim zahodom tudi zagrne. Strehe, balkoni, zidovi, teraseso namreč zasedeni do zadnjega centimetra, čakajoč, da sonce potone vnoč in utopi še en zgrešen in zavajajoč stereotip. Skratka, zaradi sončnegazahoda vam res ni treba hoditi na Santorini. Pa tudi zaradi rajskih plažne, tudi ne zaradi pristne grške kulinarike, sirtakija ... Ampak kot sem žeomenil, vse je stvar osebnega okusa; in ne pozabite, da vam v tem trenutkudaje napotke nekdo, ki se za to pot ni niti primerno obul. Imate torejvsaj en dober razlog, da me ne jemljete resno in vseeno odkrijete svojo»Atlantido« v njenem popolnem blišču in slavi.Vendar pa vas Santorini lahko vseeno preseneti s svojo preprostostjo, sajponuja tudi nekaj vsakdanjega zadovoljstva in užitkov. Že sama Perisa,njene plaže veljajo za ene najlepših, je pravo olajšanje in nasprotje»industrijskim« mestom na vrhu kaldere; če pa z glavne ceste zavijetemalo na slepo, se lahko na snežno belih ulicah Pyrgosa počutite celoosamljeno. Kakor koli, tam imajo tudi kulinarične zanimivosti popolnomadrugačen okus. In če hočete pobegniti stran od gneče, vas lahko stranskeceste čisto po naključju pripeljejo do prijaznih domačinov, ki se še vednopreživljajo na način, kot so se preživljali njihovi dedi, res pa je, da jih je leše za vzorec. In te poti vas lahko na koncu presenetijo še s kakšno drugoznamenitostjo, pa naj si bodo to kakšne skrite in neobljudene plaže,snežno bele crekvice, ostanki mogočnih mlinov na veter, osamljenihzaselkov ... Vendar ne pričakujte preveč: Santorini je v prvi vrsti turističenotok, od tega živijo njegova slava in večina prebivalstva pa tudi tujcev. Inbrez skrbi, tudi tam se da preživeti dopust sorazmerno poceni, kar razbijaše en stereotip o tem sanjskem otoku.98

BREAKING THE SANTORINI STEREOTYPESBreaking the SantoriniStereotypesOn the Searchfor “Atlantis”TEXT and photography: Jože balasFor as long as I can remember, I have always done my world travelling andexploring the low budget way, with a backpack on my back, regardless ofwhether I was going to Altiplano or Buenos Aires in the West, discoveringthe forests of Sulawesi or the Chinese parts of the Gobi desert in the Eastor simply wandering around Europe. This time around, my friend Lili and Iwent backpacking to Santorini, except that I replaced my backpack with anold suitcase on wheels. Unfortunately, I had neglected to replace my wornout trekking shoes with white sandals, which made me stick out like a sorethumb from the remaining passengers waiting at the airport gate eventhough that was the last thing I wanted.Santorini has been marketed as a dream paradise ever since the 1970s, buteven more so since the 1980s when the film Summer Lovers caused a veritableinvasion of a whole generation of young people who would wander around theisland in a daze, looking for the romantic locations where Daryl Hannah hadmade love to her co-stars. It did not take long for Santorini to become the mostpopular destination in The Cyclades. Obviously, this boost in popularity doesnot even come close to the boom of the mysterious Minoan culture that onceflourished on the island. There are also several theories claiming that the volcanicisland of Santorini is actually what remains of the legendary island of Atlantisor that an eruption of the Santorini volcano was what caused the destructionand disappearance of Atlantis. The volcano is still active today, although it lasterupted (with only minor consequences) some decades ago, and its crater is nowsurrounded by endless queues of carefree tourists. Ignoring the unpleasant 40°C heat, they race up the hill and pose for a photo or even sunbathe for a while;then they stuff a few rocks in their pockets and rush back to the small harbourin order to catch their ship, ferry or even just a large boat that runs on a tightschedule and has no time to wait for latecomers. From there, tourists hurry on toTherasia, where the most tired among them take an hour to rest and maybe getsomething to eat in one of the none too authentic or pleasant restaurants alongthe shore. Others climb, either on their own or with the help of rented donkeys,up to the caldera, which offers wonderful views of the island’s old volcanic crateror rather what is left of it after that destructive eruption thousands of years ago.There are not enough fishermen – or even inhabitants in general – in Therasiato bring in the amount of fresh fish and other seafood that would be requiredto feed the hordes of tourists coming in to this tiny harbour town every day. Buteven so, the ice cold beer and simple gyros on offer in the small local restaurantsshould be enough to satisfy any but the most demanding of tourists. Add to thisthe refreshing water that has remained crystal clear despite the heavy ship trafficand you have everything you need to regenerate your overheated body. Muchlike the tiny Therasia, Santorini gets far too many tourists to be able to satisfytheir search for gourmet pleasures, so the majority of the food is brought in fromthe mainland and the neighbouring islands. If they have no other choice, thelocals prefer to work in tourism and related branches rather than in any otherindustry, since it is virtually impossible to compete with the wholesale “importers”.99

BREAKING THE SANTORINI STEREOTYPES100

BREAKING THE SANTORINI STEREOTYPESDon’t be surprised if you are faced with defrosted fish, crab and octopus onyour plate. It is incredibly difficult to find a restaurant or tavern that is able toserve daily fresh, locally caught fish to its guests. Your best chance is probablywith a local or a small family inn, but most of the freshly caught fish is soldto the prestigious restaurants and hotels in advance for the entire season.The same goes for other kinds of food; there are hardly any fields or farmsto be seen on the slopes of the volcano. There are no pig or poultry farmseither (you would definitely be able to smell them in this heat), even thoughpork and chicken are frequently served and consumed here. The only thingsyou do see are fields of tomatoes – Santorini tomatoes are world famous– and a considerable number of well-maintained vineyards, with roadsidesigns advertising various wines and wine cellars. Santorini is bursting at theseams with restaurants and taverns offering various “local specialities”. Likeanywhere else in the world, the best thing to do if you want to avoid theoverpriced, low quality tourist traps is to ask a local for a recommendation.Every time we followed the locals’ advice, we enjoyed a good meal at a lowprice, while choosing a random tavern without consulting anybody inevitablyresulted in an empty stomach and empty pockets. Despite this, the claimthat restaurants on Santorini are hugely expensive is another stereotypethat is simply not true. There are plenty of places where you can find a good– even great – meal at a price no different to the average prices in Slovenia.Not to mention the fact that forgoing a restaurant on the main street anddriving to a neighbouring village instead where there are hardly any touristsis something that will make your vacation truly memorable.Santorini is also famous for its black beaches. They are coloured black by thevolcanic sand, which is only present on some beaches. The largest and mostpopular beach is covered in pebbles; some of the other beaches are rocky andthe unpredictable waves can soon knock you off your feet. These beaches aregenerally not as crowded with tourists as you would expect after the first morningwalk, but they do differ by price. The more prestigious beaches feature paddedsun loungers and tables in the shade, paved paths, etc. Since it is normallyboiling hot in the summer and the bar is across the road, you are provided witha bell or sometimes even a telephone that you can use to order a cold beer.Obviously there are less prestigious beaches as well – simple and without thebasic “infrastructure”, but quiet and far from the crowds.Although Santorini can seem like an enormous tourist village, you are actuallymore likely to get stuck in a side street in a crowd of tourists from one ofthe “floating hotels” – the many cruise ships jammed in the harbour belowthe cliffs. From dusk till down, these tourists are ferried by local guides onboats, buses and donkeys to the cliffs to see the characteristic whitewashedvillages of Fira, Imerovigli and Oia. The narrow streets gradually turn intoone long multinational queue, and taking a picture of a portal or interestingdetail in the street becomes mission impossible. The streets are crowded,the restaurants, taverns and cafes are crowded and the shops are crowded.In this situation, it seems that the best thing to do is to relax in the cool andrefreshing shade of one of the island’s 120 churches.Before seeing the town sights at the top of the caldera, it is worth stoppingat the harbour. The enormous cruise ships mooring there towards theafternoon are a sure sign that the narrow streets of Oia will be overcrowdedand are best to be avoided. The only place to find a few opportunities for takingpictures is out in the open, but even that loses its appeal about an hourbefore sunset. Every square centimetre on the roofs, balconies, walls andterraces is filled with people waiting to see the day turn into night; and soanother misleading stereotype is broken. The sunset is definitely not a goodenough reason to come to Santorini. Neither are the paradise beaches, genuineGreek cuisine, sirtaki … In the end, everything comes down to personaltaste; and remember, the person giving you advice right now is someonewho didn’t even manage to wear the right shoes for this trip. So you haveat least one good reason not to take me seriously and discover “Atlantis” foryourself in all its splendour and glory.Santorini may still surprise you with its simplicity – it does offer some simplepleasures and enjoyment. Perissa is a revelation, its beaches – considered tobe among the most beautiful on the island – the antidote to the “industrial”towns at the top of the caldera. Take a few turns off the main road and youmight actually find yourself all alone on the snow white streets of Pyrgos.Even the culinary specialities have an entirely different taste there. If you arelooking to escape the crowds, stick to the side roads; with a bit of luck, theywill lead you to the friendly locals still making their living in the traditionof their grandparents. Unfortunately, very few of them remain. Or maybethe side roads will reward you in some other way, be it with a hidden anddeserted beach, a pristine white church, the remains of a majestic windmillor a lonely village …Santorini is above all a touristisland. That is what perpetuatesits reputation and provides themajority of its population, aswell as a number of foreigners,with a living. And don’t worry,even on Santorini you canhave a relatively low budgetvacation, breaking anotherstereotype about this islandparadise.101

100Pot nekega oreščkaBESEDILO/fotografije: Noemie De Pas/tit breceljPravična trgovina vBurkini Faso

Ali si lahko predstavljamo,koliko poti opravi majhen indijskiorešček, preden se znajde predvami? Si lahko zamislimo, kolikoljudi ga predela in obdela,koliko ust »nahrani« in kolikodružin osreči?103

Zgodba o indijskem oreščku ali akažuju, kot setudi imenuje, se je začela v porečju Amazonke,kjer so ga v 16. stoletju odkrili Portugalci. V naslednjihstoletjih so drevo zasadili v Afriki in Aziji. Nazačetku so ga sadili le na obrežja rek, saj je zaradisvojih globokih korenin preprečeval erozijo tal.Sistematično so drevo začeli izkoriščati v Indiji,kjer je sredi 20. stoletja indijski orešček postalpomemben izvozni pridelek – država je bila še doosemdesetih let prejšnjega stoletja vodilna pridelovalka,predelovalka in izvoznica, šele v zadnjihletih je primat prepustila Vietnamu in Braziliji.Indijski oreh gre med predelavo skozi vrsto dolgotrajnihprocesov, ki zahtevajo veliko človeškedelovne sile – v glavnem so to ženske, ki jihdelodajalci zaradi deprivilegiranega socialnegastatusa plačujejo manj kot moške. Ko je orehkončno pripravljen na izvoz, se predelovalecsooči z zapletenimi zakonitostmi mednarodnetrgovine, zahtevami izvoznikov in uvoznikov,grosistov in trgovcev. Države Zahodne Afrike, kiso po številu pridelanih »surovih« orehov medvodilnimi na svetu, 90 odstotkov svojega pridelkatakoj izvozijo in tako izgubijo več kot 50 milijonovevrov, ki bi jih lahko ustvarile s predelavo. Mednarodnerazvojne agencije, med katerimi je tudirazvojna fundacija Billa Gatesa, so v zadnjih letihvložile veliko truda, da bi ta trend obrnile.Pot našega oreščka se je začela v Zahodni Afrikina obrobju drugega največjega mesta v BurkiniFaso, Bobu Dioulassu. Natančneje, v zadrugiYanta, eni od mnogih predelovalnih obratov najugozahodu Burkine Faso. Zadrugo je leta 2002ob pomoči burkinskega ministrstva za okoljein luksemburške razvojne agencije LuxDevustanovilo več kot 900 žensk, ki so se do tedajpreživljale z nezakonito sečnjo lesa v zaščitenemgozdu na obrobju mesta. Temeljna ideja ministrstvaje bila, da se ženskam ponudi priložnostza izboljšanje življenjske ravni in obenem zaščitigozdne površine pred divjim izsekavanjem.Zadrugo zdaj sestavlja 32 ženskih skupin, kipredelujejo karitejevo maslo, pridelujejo med,sezam, hibiskus in lokalna žita ter predelujejoindijske oreščke.Izvirni namen projekta Yanta je bil, da bi čim večdodane vrednosti končnega izdelka ustvarilolokalno prebivalstvo. Predvsem je to pomembnov širšem kontekstu mednarodne trgovine,kjer zaradi nepravičnih trgovinskih zakonitostivečino dodane vrednosti pridelkov na juguustvarjajo podjetja na severu. S podobnimi projektidržave na jugu tako niso le vir surovin, ki jihseveru prodajajo pod ceno, temveč same ustvarijodel dodane vrednosti. V tem duhu je lahkoBurkina Faso zgled ostalim državam v regiji, sajje največja izvoznica predelanih indijskih orehovv Zahodni Afriki. Veliko burkinskih pridelovalcevin predelovalcev je v zadnjem času pridobilocertifikate za ekološko pridelavo, med njimi leta2011 tudi zadruga Yanta.Ženske so v zadnjih desetih letih prehodile dolgoin pomembno pot. »Še pred kratkim sem zagolo preživetje izsekavala gozd, zdaj imam trajenvir dohodka. Naučila sem se pisati in brati, predtremi leti so me izvolili za predsednico zadruge,«mi je zaupala petdesetletna Nathalie, mati osmihotrok z dolgo in težko osebno zgodbo za sabo.»Projekt je resnično naredil veliko za nas: prej smobile lačne in izčrpane, zdaj smo lepe in imamoveliko upanja,« je v smehu dodala. Veliko ženskse je naučilo brati v lokalnem jeziku djoula, nekatereso se naučile govoriti francosko. Skoraj vsečlanice imajo (vsaj) del leta zagotovljen reden virdohodka, kar jim v družbi, kjer moški upravljajo zviri prihodka, zagotavlja finančno neodvisnost inenakovrednejši status v gospodinjstvu. V obratuza predelavo indijskih oreščkov vlada delovnovzdušje: v skladišče prihajajo prve vreče orehov,v učilnici poteka opismenjevanje članic zadruge,Maimouna je pravkar v sončni pečici »spekla«veganske piškotke ... Ženske z optimizmomgledajo v prihodnost, predvsem pa so ponosnena solidarnost, ki jih povezuje, in na pot, ki so joprehodile v zadnjih letih.Nathalie in ostale vodilne v zadrugi so se zadnjeleto aktivno pripravljale na konec desetletnegaprojekta. Kljub temu da se bo julija letosprojekt zaključil, bosta burkinsko ministrstvo inLuxDev še naprej finančno podpirala zadrugo.Svet mednarodne trgovine, zapleten sistemizvoznikov, špediterjev, uvoznikov, certifikatov,strogih določil EU in neznan svet trženjain komuniciranja so preprosto prezapleteniza tako mlado zadrugo, kot je Yanta, mi je vneformalnem pogovoru priznal predstavnikorganizacije LuxDev. Zadrugi je na srečo lanskoleto in letos obljubil švicarski izvoznik odkupvečine predelanih orehov. Zorenje plodov indijskegaoreha se nagiba v drugo polovico, prvevreče orehov so že v skladišču. Letos bo pridelekslabši, indijski trgovci pa so ponovno »uspeli«zvišati odkupno ceno »surovih« orehov. Upajo104

Ženske zoptimizmomgledajo vprihodnost,predvsem pa soponosne nasolidarnost,ki jih povezuje,in na pot, ki sojo prehodile vzadnjih letih.le, da bo v skladišču dovolj orehov za predelavoin da je »prodajni oddelek« zadrugeuspel zagotoviti delo do konca leta. Kljubtemu ženske še niso izgubile upanja in sepripravljajo na nov cikel dela.Hranilne vrednostiTako kot večina oreščkov so indijski oreščkipolni beljakovin in vlaknin. Kljub visokivsebnosti maščob vsebujejo dobre maščobein se tako uvrščajo med oreščke z malomaščobami. Izmed drugih oreščkov (mandljev,orehov, lešnikov in ostalih) imajo celonajmanj maščob.Zdravilne učinkovineIndijski oreščki so zdrava prehrana,predvsem za srčne bolnike, saj znižujejotveganje za bolezni srca in ožilja. Ker imajovisoke vrednosti nenasičenih maščobnihkislin, pomagajo pri vzdrževanju dobregaholesterola.Burkina FasoDržava v Zahodni Afriki, »ujeta« med Mali,Slonokoščeno obalo, Niger, Benin in Togo.Trenutno brez pomembnih in strateškihsurovin je Burkina Faso predvsempoljedelska država – več kot 80 odstotkovprebivalstva goji bombaž, koruzo in ostalalokalna žita. »Kjer ni nafte, tam vlada mir,«pravijo Burkinci, ki so zelo ponosni na svojokulturno izročilo in na to, da 62 etničnihskupin živi skupaj v miru.

The Journey of a Simple NutCan you imagine howfar a small cashewnut has travelledbefore it finallyreaches you?106The Journey of aSimple NutFair Trade inBurkina FasoTEXT/PHOTOGRAPHY: NOEMIE DE pas/TIT BRECELJHave you ever thought about how manypeople it takes to grow and processcashew nuts, or how many mouthscashew nuts feed and how many familiesthey make happy? The story of cashewnuts dates back to the 16th century,when they were first discovered in theAmazon River basin by the Portuguese.In the following centuries, cashewtrees were planted in Africa and Asia.Initially, they were only planted on riverbanks, since their deep reaching rootshelped to prevent erosion. Cashewtrees were systematically cultivated inIndia, making cashew nuts one of thecountry’s major exports in the mid-20thcentury. India remained the leadingproducer, processor and exporter ofcashews until the 1980s, and it was notuntil recently that it was overtaken byVietnam and Brazil.The processing of cashew nuts consists of a longline of lengthy processes that require large numbersof workers; these are mostly women, whoseunderprivileged social status means that they arepaid lower wages than men. Once the cashewsare finally ready to be exported, the processor isfaced with complex international trade laws andthe demands imposed by exporters and importers,wholesalers and retailers. The countries in WesternAfrica that rank among the leading producers of“raw” cashews export as much as 90% of their produceimmediately, thus losing over EUR 50 millionthat could have been earned by processing thenuts. In recent years, international developmentagencies – including the Bill & Melinda GatesFoundation aimed at global development – havebeen investing a lot of effort into trying to reversethis trend.Our cashew nut’s journey starts in Western Africa,on the outskirts of Burkina Faso’s second largestcity, Bobo-Dioulasso. More precisely, it starts at theYanta co-operative, one of the many processingplants in Southwestern Burkina Faso. With supportfrom the Burkina Faso Ministry of the Environmentand the Luxembourg development agencyLuxDev, the co-operative was founded in 2002 byover 900 women who had previously eked out aliving by chopping wood illegally in a protectedforest on the city’s outskirts. The Ministry’s intentionwas to provide women with an opportunityto improve their quality of life while at the sametime protecting forests from illegal logging. Theco-operative currently comprises 32 groups ofwomen; they produce honey, sesame, hibiscusand local grains and process shea butter andcashew nuts.Originally, the aim of the Yanta project was toensure that as much added value for the endproduct as possible was generated by the localpopulation. This is particularly important in thewider context of international trade, where unbalancedtrade laws mean that most of the addedvalue for products from the South is generatedby companies in the North. Rather than remainingmere sources of raw materials that are thenunderpriced in the North, countries in the Southcan now generate a share of the added valuethemselves, thanks to projects such as Yanta. It isthis spirit that has made Burkina Faso an examplefor other countries in the region and the largestexporter of processed cashew nuts in WesternAfrica. In recent years, many of Burkina Faso’s producersand processors have successfully acquiredcertificates for organic production. The Yantaco-operative joined their ranks in 2011.In the last ten years, the women have made a longand important journey. “It was only recently thatI still had to cut down trees in the forest in orderto survive, but now I have a permanent source ofincome. I've learnt to read and write; three yearsago, I was elected president of the co-operative,”says 50-year-old Nathalie, mother of eight and awoman with a long and difficult personal history.

The Journey of a Simple Nut“This project has truly done a lot for us: we usedto be hungry and exhausted, but now we’rebeautiful and filled with hope,” she laughs. Manyof the women have learnt to read Dioula, the locallanguage, and some have even learnt to speakFrench. Virtually every member of the co-operativehas a guaranteed regular source of income for (atleast) part of the year; in a society where sourcesof income are managed by men, this gives thewomen financial independence and a more equalstatus in the household. There is an industriousatmosphere in the cashew nut processing plant:the first bags of cashews are being delivered tothe warehouse, the classroom is filled with cooperativemembers learning to read, Maimounahas just “baked” a fresh batch of vegan cookies inthe solar oven … The women are optimistic abouttheir future, but most of all they are proud of thesolidarity that binds them together and of thejourney that they have made in recent years.For the last year, Nathalie and other co-operativeleaders have been actively preparing for the end ofthe ten-year project. However, despite the fact thatthe project is coming to an end this year in July,the Burkina Faso Ministry of the Environment andLuxDev will continue to provide financial supportfor the co-operative. The world of internationaltrade, the complex system of exporters, forwardingagents, importers, certificates and strict EUprovisions and the unfamiliar world of marketingand communication are simply too complicatedfor a co-operative as relatively young as Yanta,admitted a LuxDev representative in an informalconversation. Fortunately, last year as well asthis year, a Swiss exporter has pledged to buythe majority of the processed cashews from theco-operative. The cashew tree fruits are almostripe, and the first bags of nuts have been storedin the warehouse. The harvest will be smaller thisyear; meanwhile, Indian traders have successfullydriven up the purchase price of “raw” cashewsyet again. The women, however, refuse to give uphope. They are starting the preparations for a newcycle of work.They hope thatthe volume ofcashews in thewarehousewill sufficefor processingand that the cooperative’s“salesdepartment” willsucceed in providingthem with workuntil the year is out.Nutritional valueLike most nuts, cashews are bursting with proteinand fibre. Their fat content is relatively high,but since a large share of it consists of good fats,cashews are considered to be low-fat nuts. In fact,they actually contain less fat than any other nuts(almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts, etc.).Medicinal propertiesCashews are a healthy food; they reduce the riskof cardiovascular diseases, so they are particularlyrecommended for heart patients. Since cashew nutsare high in unsaturated fatty acids, they contributeto maintaining a good level of blood cholesterol.Burkina FasoThis Western African country borders Mali, Côted’Ivoire, Niger, Benin and Togo. Currently withoutany important and strategic raw materials, BurkinaFaso is predominantly an agricultural country –more than 80% of the population is occupied withcultivating cotton, corn and other local grains.“Where there is a lack of oil, there is an abundanceof peace,” say the locals, justifiably proud of theircultural heritage and of the fact that in BurkinaFaso there are as many as 62 different ethnic groupsliving in peaceful coexistence.107

VELIKA NAGRADNA IGRAV Londonpo zmago!Oglej si Oi v živO!OdpOtuj v LOndOn kOt navijač!Sodeluj v nagradnih igrah sponzorjev Teama Slovenie ali OKS-a inodpotuj v London z najboljšim slovenskim timom.Sponzorji Teama Slovenie in Olimpijski komite Slovenije bodo prvič odpeljali več kot stoslovenskih navijačev na olimpijske igre z olimpijskijskim navijaškim letalom. Poteguj seza svoj sedež na olimpijskem letalu in odpotuj v London skupaj s Petro Majdič.vEč na: www.olympic.siSlovenia Olympic Team@TeamSloveniaZLATI PARTNER OLIMPIJSKEGAKOMITEJA SLOVENIJE

Kontrola zraËnega prometa Slovenije, d.o.o.SLOVENIA CONTROL, Slovenian Air Navigation Services, LimitedKotnikova 19a, SI-1000 Ljubljana, www.sloveniacontrol.sip: +386 1 47 34 850, faks/f: +386 1 47 34 860, e: info@sloveniacontrol.siŠe vedno tkemo nevidne nitimed nebom in zemljoter vas varno vodimo že 20 let.

flyljubljanaNagrajujemo vašo zvestobo.Program flyljubljana omogoča udobnejša in ugodnejšapotovanja z Letališča Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana. Brezplačno članstvo Ugodnejši letališki nakupi Udobnejša in ugodnejša letalska potovanja Posebne ponudbe izbranih partnerjev Nepozabna doživetjaPridružite se nam!Izpolnite spletno pristopnico na www.flyljubljana.si ali stelefonom poskenirajte kodo.Pristopnice so na voljo tudi na okencih za prijavo na let v odhodniavli na letališču.

www.pivo-union.siFoto: Cirkus

SLOVENIJAZelena. Aktivna. Zdrava.V deželi gozdov in voda vas čakajo navdihi aktivnega življenja.Spoznajte prizorišča zmagovalcev!IZTOK ČOPPrva olimpijska medalja za Slovenijo –zlata na OI 2000. Vesla na Bledu.TINA MAZESvetovna prvakinja v veleslalomu.Doma s slovenskih smučišč.ROMAN KEJŽARNajboljši slovenski olimpijski maratonec.Zmaguje tudi na maratonu v Ljubljani.EKIPA KOBILARNE LIPICAOrganizira tekme v konjeništvu.Na slovenskem Krasu!VASILIJ ŽBOGARSrebrna medalje na OI 2008. Jadra tudipo slovenskem morju.MATJAŽ GOJČIČPrvi slovenski golfist na European Tour.Vadi na slovenskih igriščih.PETER KAUZERZmagovalec SP 2011 v slalomu na divjihvodah. Doma premaguje reko Sočo.ANJA KLINARSrebrna medalja na EP v plavanju 2010.Sprošča se v slovenskih zdraviliščih.MARKO BALOHSvetovni rekorder v vztrajnostnemkolesarjenju. Trenira v Logarski dolini.PETRA MAJDIČLegendarna dobitnica olimpijske medaljev teku na smučeh. Ljubi Pohorje!Izberite svoja doživetja na www.slovenia.info/activeholidays.

SLOVENIAGreen. Active. Healthy.The inspiration for a more active lifestyle can be found in this land ofwoods and water. Familiarize yourself with the scenery of winners!IZTOK ČOPThe first Slovenian gold medal winner atSydney 2000 rows on Lake Bled.TINA MAZEThe first female giant slalom worldchampion is at home on Slovenia’s skislopes.ROMAN KEJŽARSlovenia’s Olympic marathon hopefulis a multiple champion on the streets ofLjubljana.THE LIPICA STUD FARM TEAMOrganise equestrian competitions on theworld famous Slovenian Karst.VASILIJ ŽBOGAROur 2008 Olympic sailing silvermedallist trains in the Adriatic Sea, offthe coast of Slovenia.MATJAŽ GOJČIČThe first Slovenian to make the Europeantour has a choice of world-class coursesat home.PETER KAUZERThe 2011 canoe slalom world championloves to train on the Soča river.ANJA KLINARThe European swimming silver medallisttakes time out at Slovenia’s healthresorts.MARKO BALOHSlovenia’s world-record holding ultracyclisttrains in the beautiful Logarskavalley.PETRA MAJDIČOur Olympic cross-country skiingmedallist loves Pohorje.Choose your experience at www.slovenia.info/activeholidays.

SLOVENIJA / SLOVENIANekaj osnovnih podatkovA few factspovršina (v km2) 20 273gozdovi 11 854travniki 5 593polja in vrtovi 2 471sadovnjaki 402vinogradi 163dolžina meje (v km)s Hrvaško 546z Avstijo 324z Italijo 235z Madžarsko 102obala (v km) 46,6najvišja točkaTriglavgostota naseljenosti2864 m(prebivalcev/km) 98prebivalstvo2 milijonaglavno mesto: Ljubljanavečja mesta:Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenjepodnebje:alpsko, celinsko, sredozemskojezik: Uradni jezik jeslovenščina, na območjihz mešanim prebivalstvompa tudi madžarščina initalijanščina.Pri stiku s tujci uporabljajoprebivalci Slovenije največkratangleščino, nemščino,italijanščino in francoščino.denarna valuta: Denarna valutaje evro (EUR). Tuje valute lahkozamenjate na mejnih prehodih,v bankah, menjalnicah inhotelih.territory area (in sq. km) 20273forests 11 854grassland 5 593fields and gardens 2 471orchards 402vineyards 163border length (in km)with Croatia 546with Austria 324with Italy 235with Hungary 102coastline (in km) 46.6highest pointTriglavpopulation density2864 m(inhabitants/km) 98population2 millioncapital:ljubljanamajor towns:Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenjeclimate: Alpine, Continental,Mediterraneanlanguage: The official languageis Slovene, as well as Hungarianand Italian in areas of mixedpopulation.People who live in Sloveniamost commonly use English tocommunicate with foreigners,then German, Italian andFrench.currency: The currency is theeuro (EUR). Foreign currencymay be exchanged at bordercrossings, in banks, exchangeoffices and hotels.prazniki1. in 2. januar novo leto8. februar prešernov dan, slovenski kulturni praznik8. april velika noč27. april dan upora proti okupatorju(druga svetovna vojna)1. in 2. maj praznik dela25. junij dan državnosti15. avgust Marijino vnebovzetje31. oktober dan reformacije1. november dan spomina na mrtve25. december božič26. december dan samostojnostiholidaysJanuary 1 & 2February 8April 8April 27May 1 & 2June 25August 15October 31November 1December 25December 26New Year’s HolidayPrešeren Day, Slovene Day of Cultureeaster Sunday and MondayDay of Uprising Against the Occupation(WW2)Labour Day, Pentecoststatehood DayAssumption DayReformation DayAll Saints’ DayChristmas DayIndependence Day

CopenhagenManchesterLondonAmsterdamBrusselsFrankfurtZurichMunichViennaVeronaLjubljanaBelgradeSarajevoBarcelonaDubrovnikPristinaIbizaMenorcaPalma de MallorcaPodgoricaTiranaSkopjeThessalonikiThassosIstanbulKerkira/CorfuLefkasSkiatosLesbosMaltaKefalonijaZakinthosChiosMykonosSantoriniSamosKosRhodosKarpatosHeraklionDjerba

Evropa / EuropeRedni poletiScheduled Flightszimski in poletni vozni redČarterski poletiCharter FlightsWinter and summer timetableMoscowIz/fromLjubljana/BrnikNm/kmČas poleta/Flight time(A320/CRJ)Iz/fromLjubljana/BrnikNm/kmČas poleta/Flight time(A320/CRJ)Amsterdam 606/1122 1.35 hAntalya 966/1789 2.35 hBarcelona 686/1270 1.46 hAqaba 1454/2692 3.18 hBelgrade 267/494 0.65 hCairo 1276/2363 3.25 hBrussels 559/1035 1.26 hChios 738/1367 2.10 hCopenhagen 641/1187 1.39 hDjerba 796/1474 2.20 hFrankfurt 420/778 1.07 hDubrovnik 292/541 1.05 hIstanbul 781/1446 1.53 hHeraklion 832/1540 2.15 hLondon 757/1402 1.56 hHurghada 1533/2839 3.45 hManchester 868/1608 2.11 hIbiza 799/1480 2.20 hMoscow (Sheremetyevo) 1120/2074 2.35 hKarpathos 996/1844 2.35 hMunich 224/415 0.41 hKefalonija 585/1083 1.45 hPristina 622/1150 1.50 hKerkira (Corfu) 523/968 1.35 hPodgorica 365/676 1.25 hKos 873/1616 2.20 hSarajevo 222/411 0.41 hLarnaca 1197/2216 3.00 hSkopje 413/765 1.07 hLefkas (Preveza) 567/1050 1.40 hTirana 474/878 1.14 hLesbos (Mitiline) 746/1381 2.10 hVienna 153/283 0.30 hMalta 670/1241 2.00 hZürich 334/619 0.56 hMenorca 646/1196 1.55 hVienna - FrankfurtMykonos 793/1468 1.56 hPalma de Mallorca 723/1339 2.10 hRhodos 947/1753 2.30 hSamos 823/1524 2.10 hAntalyaSantorini 836/1548 2.15 hSharm el Sheikh 1505/2787 3.45 hLarnacaIz/from PRIŠTINASkiatos 632/1170 1.50 hThassos (Kavala) 563/1043 1.45 hFrankfurt 930/1722 2.50 hTel Aviv 1286/2382 2.57 hCairoSharm el SheikhHurghadaTel AvivAqabaMunich 646/1196 2.00 hVerona 650/1204 2.00 hThessaloniki 571/1057 1.24 hZakinthos 632/1170 1.50hAdria Airways has used the map or Europe exclusively as an illustration of its flight connections and without any political or other implications.

ADRIA AIRWAYSFlota - FleetIlustracije: Miha ŽnidarAirbus A319Število/Total 2Dolžina/Length33.84 mVišina/Height11.76 mRazpon kril/Wingspan34.10 mHitrost/Cruising speed900 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude11 700 mDolet/Range6 650 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 135Airbus A320Število/Total 1Dolžina/Length37.57 mVišina/Height11.75 mRazpon kril/Wingspan31.10 mHitrost/Cruising speed900 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude11 700 mDolet/Range3 890 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 180Bombardier CRJ-900Število/Total 4Dolžina/Length32.50 mVišina/Height7.57 mRazpon kril/Wingspan23.20 mHitrost/Cruising speed882 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude12 496 mDolet/Range3 600 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 86Bombardier CRJ-200 LRŠtevilo/Total 6Dolžina/Length26.77 mVišina/Height6.22 mRazpon kril/Wingspan21.21 mHitrost/Cruising speed860 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude12 496 mDolet/Range3 285 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 48/50120

NAj se poletje zAčNena krilih doživetij!Split že od 69 € London Luton že od 119 € Istanbul že od 149 €Število razpoložljivih sedežev je omejeno. Navedene cene veljajo za povratna potovanja začeta v Ljubljani ter vključujejo prevoznino, vseletališke in ostale pristojbine ter strošek internetne rezervacije. Informacije in rezervacije na www.adria.si, brezplačni številki 080 13 00,prodajnih mestih Adrie Airways in pri vseh pooblaščenih potovalnih agencijah.www.adria.si

ADRIA AIRWAYSDobrodošli v letalu Adrie AirwaysSpoštovani potniki, vaše zadovoljstvo je naš uspeh. Da bi bilo potovanje z nami čim bolj prijetno, nam dovolite, da vas opozorimona nekaj napotkov, ki so pomembni za vaše udobje in varnost pred poletom, med njim in po pristanku.Pred poletomEkonomski in poslovni razredNa večini Adrijinih prog izmenično letijo letala tipa Airbus A-319, A-320,Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-200LR in CRJ-900.Vozovnica za potovanje v poslovnem razredu je izdana po veljavni tarifi zaposlovni razred in velja eno leto z možnostjo rezervacije, plačila in prevzemakadarkoli, omogoča pa tudi druge ugodnosti, kot so: sprememba datumovpotovanja brez doplačila, večja količina brezplačne prtljage, uporabaposlovnih salonov na letališčih idr.V ekonomskem razredu potujejo potniki z vozovnicami po ekonomskihtarifah, ki so nižje in vsebujejo določene omejitve.Nakup vozovnice prek spletaLetalsko vozovnico lahko najceneje in hitro rezervirateter kupite na Adrijini spletni strani www.adria.si. To velja le za polete na Adrijinihletih. Nakup prek interneta je zaščiten zvarnostnim certifikatom. Elektronskevozovnice prejme potnik po elektronskipošti.V primeru, da potrebujete letalskovozovnico, kjer bodo vključeni tudidrugi prevozniki, vas prosimo, dapokličete naš Klicni center za rezervacijein prodajo letalskih vozovnic natelefonskih številkah 386 1 369 10 10 in080 13 00.Potujte z elektronsko vozovnicoNa vseh rednih poletih slovenskega letalskega prevoznika je možnoleteti z elektronsko vozovnico.Potnik dobi ob nakupu potniški kupon, ki velja kot račun, in načrt poti(itinerar) v ovitku Adrie Airways. Dokument lahko prejme tudi na svoj elektronskinaslov in ga natisne sam. To dokumentacijo mora imeti s seboj vesčas potovanja. Pri okencu za prijavo na let se identificira s potnim listom aliosebno izkaznico. Uslužbenec izda potniku vstopni kupon za let, s katerimta vstopi v letalo. Elektronski način dokumentiranja prodaje zagotavljasproten vpogled v dogajanje z vozovnico, hiter prenos podatkov inmanjše možnosti zlorab. Najpomembnejše pri tem pa je, da so potnikovikuponi za let shranjeni v elektronski obliki in tako varni pred izgubo.Adria Airways tudi na mobilnih telefonihVsem uporabnikom pametnih telefonov sporočamo, dasi lahko na svojem mobilnem brskalniku nastavite našomobilno stran m.adria.si ali pa s skenerjem kod poskenirateQR kodo.Če skenerja nimate, si ga lahko naložite na povezavi »http://www.i-nigma.com/Download-nigmaReader.html”. Uporabniki iPhona pa to najdete v iStoru.Mobilna stran prinaša: spremljanje statusa letov, informacije o voznem redu,informacije o naših destinacijah in informacije o vremenu na destinacijah.Poleg tega pa lahko na tej strani najdete še: vodič za potnike, turističnivodnik, naše kontakte in različne povezave do sledenja prtljage, iskanjaposlovnih salonov po letališčih in preverjanje milj v klubu Miles&More.Seveda pa so tu še novice in najbolj vroče cenovne ponudbe vozovnic ter»checkmytrip«, kjer lahko preverite svoje potovanje.Web Check-inV Adrii Airways se zavedamo, da je pri potovanju pogosto dragocena vsakaminuta. Še posebej takrat, kadar nas na poti na letališče ovira gost promet.Web check-in je novost, s katero boste prihranili čas pri okencu za prijavona let, saj se nanj lahko prijavite že od doma, z delovnega mesta oziromapovsod, kjer je vzpostavljena internetna povezava. Svoj planirani let lahkoprijavite največ 24 ur in najmanj 60 minut pred poletom. Storitev web--check-in je trenutno možna le za določene lete Adrie Airways. V prihodnjihmesecih bomo obstoječim destinacijam postopoma dodajali še nove.Omejitve pri vnosu živil v EUPotnikom svetujemo, naj pred potovanjem preverijo seznam artiklov,ki jih je mogoče vnesti na območje Evropske skupnosti. Strog nadzornad uvozom mesa, mleka, rib, lupinarjev in drugih tovrstnih izdelkovje nujen za zaščito ljudi in živali pred boleznimi, ki se lahko prenašajos temi živili.V primeru, da carinska služba pri rutinskem pregledu osebne prtljageugotovi prisotnost nedovoljenih živil živalskega izvora, le-te zaseže. Informativniletak “Kaj prinesti domov?” vam je na voljo na naši spletni strani.Več informacij lahko dobite na Glavnem uradu VURS-a ali na njihovi spletnistrani www.vurs.gov.si v poglavju Javne objave/Uvoz živil za osebno rabo.Ročna prtljagaZaradi vaše varnosti in udobja vas vljudno prosimo, da upoštevate mednarodnapravila, ki potniku dovoljujejo imeti pri sebi en kos ročne prtljage vvelikosti 55 x 40 x 23 cm in z največjo težo osem kilogramov.Ročno prtljago namestite v za to namenjeni predal nad sedežem, težje kosepa, če je le mogoče, shranite pod sedež pred sabo. Priporočamo vam, dapredal s prtljago pazljivo odpirate, saj se lahko med poletom predmeti vnjem premaknejo.Na letalih CRJ oddajte večjo ročno prtljago pred letalom. Tam jo takoj poizstopu iz letala tudi prevzemite.Varnostna pravilaEvropska unija je v letu 2006 sprejela nova varnostna pravila. Ta omejujejokoličino tekočin, ki jo lahko vzamete s seboj na letalo.V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate samo majhne količine tekočin, ki morajobiti shranjene v posamičnih posodah z največjo prostornino 100 mililitrov.Te posode morate zapakirati v prozorno plastično vrečko, ki jo je mogočeznova ponovno zatesniti; prostornina vrečke posameznega potnika ne smebiti večja od enega litra. Med tekočine spadajo: voda in druge pijače, juhein sirupi; kreme, losjoni in olja; parfumi; razpršilci; geli, vključno z geli za lasein tuširanje; posode z vsebinami pod pritiskom, vključno s peno za britje ter122

drugimi penami in dezodoranti; kreme, vključno z zobno kremo; mešanicetekočin in trdih snovi; črtalo za veke in tuš za trepalnice ter katerekoli drugesnovi s podobno vsebnostjo.Še vedno lahko tekočine prenašate v oddani prtljagi – nova pravila se nanašajosamo na ročno prtljago. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate:• zdravila in nujno potrebna živila (vključno z otroško hrano), ki jih bosteuporabljali med potovanjem; morda boste morali dokazati, da jih nujnopotrebujete;• tekočine, kot so pijače in parfumi (kupite jih lahko bodisi v prodajalni naletališču v EU, ki je za točko, na kateri pokažete svoj vstopni karton, bodisina letalu, ki ga upravlja prevoznik EU).Če ste tekočine kupili zapakirane v posebni zatesnjeni vrečki, te vrečkepred varnostnim pregledom ne odpirajte, sicer lahko varnostno osebje nakontrolni točki njeno vsebino zaseže. Če na letališču presedate na drug let,vrečke ne odpirajte pred varnostnim pregledom na transfernem letališčuoziroma na zadnjem letališču, če presedate več kot enkrat.Če imate kakršne koli dvome ali vprašanja, se pred potovanjem obrnite nasvojega letalskega prevoznika ali potovalno agencijo.Med letomNapotki za varnostZ najpomembnejšimi varnostnimi napotki vas bo pred poletom seznanilonaše kabinsko osebje, poleg tega pa boste v žepu sedeža pred sabo našlinavodila za postopke v sili. Ker se glede na tip letala ta navodila razlikujejo,vas prosimo, da jih pred vsakim poletom pazljivo preučite.Med vzletanjem in pristajanjem si morate pripeti varnostni pas, zaradi varnostiin udobja pa vam priporočamo, da ostanete pripeti tudi med poletom.Po pristanku počakajte na svojem sedežu, dokler se letalo popolnoma ne ustavioziroma dokler ne ugasne znak za obvezno uporabo varnostnih pasov.Kapitan letala lahko podeli potniku, ki se v letalu neprimerno vede, takoimenovani RDEČI KARTON. Ta je namenjen vsem, ki s svojim vedenjemovirajo delo kabinskega osebja, ne spoštujejo varnostnih pravil ali paogrožajo varnost in udobje potnikov. Napad na varnost zračnega prometaje kaznivo dejanje po 330. členu Kazenskega zakonika RS (KZ-1), ki zatovrstna dejanja predpisuje zaporno kazen.Uporaba elektronskih napravV letalu ni dovoljeno uporabljati prenosnih telefonov (biti morajo popolnomaizključeni!), radijskih in televizijskih sprejemnikov, videoiger z daljinskimupravljanjem, računalniških tiskalnikov in drugih naprav, ki bi lahko z elektromagnetnimivalovi motile delovanje občutljivih letalskih instrumentov.Druge elektronske naprave, denimo prenosne računalnike, CD in DVD predvajalniketer žepne kalkulatorje, je dovoljeno uporabljati le med poletom (čene povzročajo motenj), med vzletanjem in pristajanjem pa ne. Prosimo vas,da se pred uporabo elektronskih naprav posvetujete s kabinskim osebjem indosledno upoštevate njihove napotke.Nevarni predmetiPo mednarodnih varnostnih predpisih potnikom v letalu ni dovoljenoimeti (ne pri sebi ne v prtljagi) orožja in drugih nevarnih predmetov, kot so:vnetljive tekočine, pločevinke s stisnjenim ali utekočinjenim plinom, lahkovnetljive snovi, vžigalice, ki niso označene kot varne, in podobno.Počutje in zdravjeVašemu dobremu počutju sta namenjena ventil za uravnavanje dotokazraka in lučka za branje, ki sta nameščena nad sedežem. Tam je tudipozivni gumb, s katerim lahko po potrebi pokličete članico oziroma članakabinskega osebja.V letalu je na voljo priročna lekarna, opremljena s sredstvi za nudenje prvepomoči. Med poletom lahko včasih v ušesih občutite neprijeten pritisk, dočesar prihaja zaradi sprememb višine in zračnega pritiska v letalu; težavo bostezlahka odpravili s poudarjenim požiranjem sline ali z nakazanim zehanjem.Da bi se izognili težavam z ožiljem, ko gre za dolg polet, vam svetujemo, dase večkrat sprehodite po potniški kabini, med sedenjem pa delate vaje zaraztezanje celega telesa.Postrežba med letomTudi na letalu bodo člani našega prijaznega osebja lepo poskrbeli za vas.Odvisno od trajanja leta, destinacije in razreda v letalu vam bodo na voljookusni obroki, postrežba pijače, časopisi in naš odlični In-Flight Magazine,na letih izven EU pa boste lahko nakupovali tudi v našem »zračnem« AdriaShopu. Hrana in pijača sta na rednih letih Adrie Airways že vključeni v voznino,na čarterskih poletih pa potnikom zaračunavamo alkoholne pijačepo naslednjem ceniku:• pivo 0,33 l 2,50 €• vino 0,2 l 3,00 €• penina 0,25 l 3,50 €• Chivas Regal 0,05 l 2,10 €• ostale miniature 1,80 €V kolikor pa bi imeli zaradi zdravstvenih, verskih ali ideoloških pogledovkakršnekoli zadržke do določene hrane, vam v Adrii Airways ponujamopester izbor tako imenovanih posebnih obrokov. Izbor si lahko ogledate nanaši spletni strani v rubriki Vodič za potnike; pomembno pa je, da svoje željezaupate svetovalcu že ob rezervaciji oziroma nakupu vozovnice.Alkohol v letaluV letalu ni dovoljeno uživanje alkoholnih pijač, ki jih prinesete s sabo. Kabinskoosebje ne sme streči alkoholnih pijač osebam, ki kažejo znake vinjenosti,in osebam, mlajšim od 18 let. Dobronamerno vas opozarjamo, da alkoholzaradi nekoliko nižjega zračnega pritiska med poletom deluje na telo hitrejein bolj intenzivno kot na tleh.po pristankuZamujena, izgubljena ali poškodovana prtljagaČe bi med vašim potovanjem prišlo donepravilnega ravnanja z vašo registrirano prtljago(velja tudi za prtljago, oddano predletalom), zadevo takoj po prihodu prijavitena letališču pri ustrezni službi (Izgubljeno/Najdeno, Lost&Found, Arrival Service). Telefonskaštevilka pa je + 386 (0) 25 94 339.Center za stike s potnikiV Adrijinem Centru za stike s potniki lahko dobitevse informacije o naši ponudbi in novostih pa tudi pomoč ali nasvet.Sem lahko potniki posredujete pritožbo ali odškodninski zahtevek, veselipa bomo tudi pohvale. Na naš center se lahko obrnete osebno, pisno, poelektronski pošti prc@adria.si ali po telefonu na brezplačno številko 080 1303 za klice znotraj Slovenije oziroma kot doslej na telefonsko številko +386(0)1 369 11 33.Najem avtomobila in hoteliNa Adrijini spletni strani smo pred kratkim dodali zavihek Rent-a-car inHoteli, ki vam omogočata najugodnejši najem vozila in rezervacijo hotelskihnamestitev. Zelo enostavno: obiščite www.adria.si in poiščite željeni zavihek.Na voljo je nekaj deset tisoč hotelskih objektov na vseh celinah, od tistih zeno zvezdico do prestižnih mednarodnih verig. Pri Budgetu lahko najametevozilo na več kot 3.400 lokacijah v 128 državah po vsem svetu.123

ADRIA AIRWAYSAdria Airways Welcomes You AboardDear passengers, your satisfaction is our success. In order to ensure that your Adria flight is as pleasant as possible, allow usto draw your attention to certain points that are important for your comfort and safety before take-off, during the flightand after landinG.Before take-offEconomy and business classThe majority of Adria routes are served by the following aircraft: Airbus A319 andA320, Bombardier CRJ-200 LR and CRJ-900.A business-class ticket is issued according to the current business-class tariff andis valid for one year. The ticket can be booked, paid for and picked up at any timeand includes other advantages such as changing the date of travel without additionalcharge, a larger free baggage allowance, the use of business lounges atairports, etc. Economy class is for passengers with economy-class tickets, whichare cheaper and carry certain restrictions.Online ticketingThe cheapest and quickest way to book a flight and buy a ticket is to visit Adria’swebsite at www.adria.si. This only applies to flights operated by Adria. Onlinepurchases are protected by a security certificate. Passengers receive their electronictickets via e-mail.If you require a ticket that will also include other carriers, please contact our CallCentre for Reservations and Ticket Sales on: 386 1 369 10 10 or 080 13 00.Travel with an electronic ticketYou can travel with an electronic ticket on all Adria Airwaysscheduled flights. On purchasing a ticket, passengers receivea passenger coupon and itinerary in an AdriaAirways cover. You can also receive the documentvia e-mail and print it yourself. You mustkeep this document with you throughout thejourney. At the check-in, present your passportor identity card. The check-in personnel willissue you with your boarding pass. Electronicdocumentation of the ticket sale means thatthe ticket status can be verified at any time.It also facilitates rapid transfer of data andreduces the chance of abuse. Most importantly,there is no danger of losing the boarding pass, since it is storedin electronic form.Adria Airways on mobile phonesTo all smartphone users – we would like to inform you thatyou can now set our mobile site, m.adria.si, on your mobilebrowser or scan your QR code with a barcode scanner.If you do not have a barcode scanner, you can downloadone by clicking the following link http://www.i-nigma.com/Downloadi-nigmaReader.html.iPhone users can find this in the iStore.The mobile site provides information on the following: flight status, timetables,destinations and weather conditions.In addition, you will also find the following: travellers guide, tourist guide, ourcontact details and various links to: baggage tracking, searches by airportbusiness lounge, and frequent flyer miles in the Miles & More Club.Of course, you can also find news, the hottest ticket price bids and “checkmytrip”where you can check information on your trip.Web Check-inAt Adria we are aware that every minute is precious when you are travelling.Especially when heavy traffic holds you up on the way to the airport. The webcheck-in service is a new service that lets you save time at the check-in desk: becauseyou can check in from home or office – or anywhere with an Internet connection.You can check in as early as 24 hours and up to 60 minutes before yourscheduled departure time. Web check-in is currently only available on selectedAdria flights. In the coming months new destinations will gradually be added.Restrictions on bringing food into the EUWe advise passengers to check the list of articles that may be brought into theEU before travelling. Strict controls of the import of meat, milk, fish, shellfishand products derived from them is necessary to protect people and animalsfrom the diseases that they can transmit.If customs officials discover prohibited foodstuffs of animal origin duringroutine luggage checks, they will be confiscated. The informative leaflet “Whatto bring home” is available on our website.More information is available from the Veterinary Administration of the Republicof Slovenia or on its website http://www.vurs.gov.si/ under the section PublicAnnouncements/Import of Foodstuffs for Personal Use.Carry-on baggageFor your safety and comfort, we ask you to observe international rules thatpermit passengers to have one piece of carry-on baggage of a maximum sizeof 55 x 40 x 23 cm and a maximum weight of 8 kg.Carry-on baggage should be placed in the overhead bins. Heavier items maybe stored under the seat in front of you if possible.We recommend that you take care when opening the overhead bins as itemsmay have moved during the flight and may fall out.If your flight is on a CRJ aircraft, larger items of carry-on baggage must be surrenderedon boarding. They will be returned to you when you leave the aircraft.EU airport security rulesIn 2006 the European Union adopted new security rules that restrict theamount of liquids that passengers can take aboard aircraft.You are only allowed to take small quantities of liquids in your hand luggage.These liquids must be in individual containers with a maximum capacity of 100millilitres each. These containers must be packed in one transparent re-sealableplastic bag of not more than one litre capacity per passenger. Liquids include:water and other drinks, soups, syrups; creams, lotions and oils; perfumes; sprays;gels, including hair and shower gels; contents of pressurised containers, includingshaving foam, other foams and deodorants; pastes, including toothpaste; liquidsolidmixtures; mascara; any other item of similar consistency.You can still:• pack liquids in bags that you check in – the new rules only affect hand luggage;124

• carry in your hand luggage medicines and dietary requirements, including babyfoods, for use during the trip. You may be asked for proof that they are needed;• buy liquids such as drinks and perfumes in an EU airport shop when locatedbeyond the point where you show your boarding pass or on board an aircraftoperated by an EU airline. If they are sold in a special sealed bag, do not openit before you are screened – otherwise the contents may be confiscated at thecheckpoint. (If you transfer at an EU airport, do not open the bag before screeningat your airport of transfer, or at the last one if you transfer more than once).• If you have any doubts, please ask your airline or travel agent in advance of travel.During the flightSafety informationOur cabin crew will give you important safety information before take-off. Youwill find instructions for emergency procedures in the pocket of the seat in frontof you. Since these procedures differ depending on the type of aircraft, we askyou to read the instructions carefully before every flight.During take-off and landing you must fasten your seatbelt. For yourown safety and comfort we also recommend that youleave it fastened during the flight. After landing, wait inyour seat until the aircraft comes to a complete stop oruntil the seatbelt sign is switched off.The captain can issue a passenger who acts inappropriatelyon the aircraft with what is called a REDCARD. The red card is intended for anyone whosebehaviour obstructs the work of the cabin crew,who does not observ safety instructions or whothreatens the safety and comfort of passengers.Unacceptable behaviour on board an aircraft is aviolation of the law. Placing air traffic in jeopardy is acriminal offence in accordance with Article 330 of theCriminal Code of the Republic of Slovenia (KZ-1), carryingwith it the penalty of imprisonment.Use of electronic devicesUse of the following devices is not permitted aboard the aircraft: mobilephones (they must be switched off!), radios and televisions, video games withremote control, computer printers and other devices emitting electromagneticwaves which could interfere with sensitive aircraft systems.Other electronic devices such as portable computers, CD and DVD players andpocket calculators may only be used during the flight (if they do not cause a disturbance).They may not be used during take-off and landing. Please check with thecabin crew before using electronic devices and be sure to follow their instructions.Hazardous itemsUnder international safety regulations air passengers may not transport, eitheron their person or in their luggage, weapons and other hazardous items suchas flammable liquids, compressed or liquefied gas cylinders, highly inflammablematerials, matches (except safety matches), and so on.Comfort and healthFor your comfort, an adjustable air vent and a reading light are located aboveyour seat. There is also a button which you can use to call a member of thecabin crew if necessary.The aircraft is equipped with a first aid kit. During the flight you may feel anuncomfortable pressure in your ears. This is caused by changes in altitudeandthe air pressure in the aircraft; swallowing or yawning will help relieve thediscomfort.In order to avoid vein problems associated with long flights, we advise you totake frequent walks up and down the cabin and to do stretching exercises forthe whole body while seated.Service during the flightOur friendly staff will also serve you while on board the aircraft. Dependingon the length of the flight, the destination and the class of travel, you will beoffered tasty meals, drink service, newspapers and our outstanding InFlightmagazine, and on longer flights you can also make purchases in our “airborne”Adria Shop. Meals and drinks are included in the ticket price on scheduledflights, while on charter flights passengers have to pay for alcoholic beverages:• Beer 0,33l2,50 eur• Wine 0,2l3,00 eur• Sparkling Wine 0,25l 3,50 eur• Chivas Regal 0,05l2,10 eur• Other miniature liquers 1,80 eurWith a thought of each passanger we carefully prepaired a huge sellection of theso-called special meals which you could order. Reason being either medicalor religious, a matter or your life style or personal belief – there issomething for each one of you. A variety of special meals is tobe found on our website, just follow the Passanger Guide tab.However, it is of significant importance to state you wish assoon as you book or purchase your ticket.After landingAlcohol on boardConsuming alcoholic beverages that you havebrought on board the aircraft yourself is not permitted.The cabin crew is not allowed to serve alcoholto passengers who show signs of intoxication or topassengers under 18 years old. Please bear in mind thatbecause of the lower air pressure during flight, alcoholhas a faster and stronger effect than on the ground.Delayed, lost and damaged baggageIf problems occur with your checked baggage during your journey (also appliesto luggage surrendered on boarding), contact the appropriate service assoon as you arrive at the airport (Lost & Found, Arrival Service, etc.)Passenger Relations CentreAdria’s Passenger Relations Centre provides you with news and informationabout our services and can also offer assistance and advice.Passengers can submit complaints or compensation claims, and praise isalways welcome. You can contact the centre in person, in writing, by e-mail toprc@adria.si, and by phoning the free telephone number 080 13 03 if callingfrom Slovenia, +386 1 369 11 33 if calling from outside Slovenia.Car hire and hotelsWe have recently added two tabs to Adria’s website that enables you to book ahire car or hotel accomodation throughout the world at favourable rates. Simplyvisit www.adria.si, and click on the desired tab. Choose from among tens ofthousands of hotels on every continent, ranging from one-star hotels to prestigiousinternational hotel chains. Budget offers Adria Airways customers the bestcar hire deals in more than 3,400 destinations in 128 countries!125

ADRIA AIRWAYSOstale storitve Adrie Airways - Other servicesČarterski prevoziAdria Airways ponuja potnikom, agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskimprevoznikom poleg svojih rednih linij tudi čarterske polete iz Ljubljane in vsehdrugih (predvsem evropskih) letališč. Z vstopom v Evropsko unijo ponujamoagencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom tudi polete z vseh drugihevropskih letališč. Odlikujejo nas zlasti prilagodljivost, ažurnost, visoka kakovostin točnost poletov. E-pošta: charter@adria.siChartersIn addition to its scheduled services, Adria Airways offers charter flights fromLjubljana and other (mainly European) airports to passengers, agencies, companiesand other carriers. Now that Slovenia is part of the European Union, wecan also offer flights from all other European airports to agencies, companiesand other carriers. Adria charters offer flexibility, up-to-the-minute services,high quality and punctuality.E-mail: charter@adria.siPrevoz tovoraBlagovna služba Adrie Airways odpremi vse pošiljke hitro in kakovostnodo vseh letališč po svetu. V sodelovanju z drugimi prevozniki in s pomočjoračunalniško podprtega rezervacijskega sistema spremljamo vsako pošiljkood sprejema do predaje naslovniku.Naša blagovna služba in prodajna zastopništva v tujini vam bodo zveseljem pomagala odpremiti oz. dostaviti blago po najhitrejši in cenovnonajugodnejši poti.ADRIA CARGO, Letališče Ljubljana – Prevoz tovoraTelefon: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Faks + 386 (04) 202 30 30E-pošta: cargo@adria.siCargoThe Adria Airways cargo service provides fast, high-quality goods transport toevery airport in the world. In conjunction with other carriers, and with the help ofa computerised booking system, we monitor every item from reception to delivery.Our goods service and sales offices abroad will be happy to help you dispatch ordeliver goods by the fastest and most competitively priced route.ADRIA CARGO, Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport – Cargo Transport,Telephone: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Fax: + 386 (04) 202 30 30,E-mail: jp.cargo@adria.siUradni prevoznik dogodkovKot sodobna družba razumemo potrebe poslovnega vsakdanjika, ki se vsepogosteje odvija v globalnem prostoru. Zato stopamo naproti tistim, kiorganizirajo konference, kongrese, sejme ali druge mednarodne dogodketako, da postanemo njihov uradni ekskluzivni prevoznik, udeležencemter organizatorju pa nudimo posebne ugodnosti. Preprosto, učinkovitoin prilagojeno potrebam svojih uporabnikov poskrbimo za to, da potekadogodek uspešno, udeleženci pa prispejo na cilj pravočasno,varno inzanesljivo. Kot članica združenja Star Alliance Iahko za večje mednarodnekongrese zagotovimo produkt “Conventions PlusTM”, v sklopu kateregapostane več članov združenja uradni prevoznik dogodka. Za vse nadaljnjeinformacije smo dosegljivi po elektronski pošti: events@adria.siOfficial events carrierAs a modern company we understand the needs of modern business, whichincreasingly takes place in the global arena. For this reason we are ideallypositioned to work with organisers of conferences, congresses, fairs and otherinternational events by becoming their official exclusive carrier and offeringdiscounted fares and other advantages to participants and organisers. With asimple, efficient approach adapted to the needs of our customers, we make surethat the event runs smoothly, with participants arriving at their destination ontime, safely and reliably. As a Star Alliance member we offer the ConventionsPlus service for major international conferences, which effectively makes all StarAlliance members the official carrier for the event. For more information write tous at: events@adria.si.Avio Taxi – panoramski izletiZ letalom Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T s tremi sedeži za potnike lahkopoletite do vseh večjih mest s špotnimi letališči v Sloveniji in do bližnjihletališč sosednjih držav. Za lete se lahko naročite po telefonu: 04 23 63 460(Adria Airways Aviotaxi) ali 041 636 420 (tel. št. pilota).Aviotaxi – Panoramic flightsOur Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T, with its three passenger seats, can fly youto all major towns with sports airfields in Slovenia and to nearby airportsinneighbouring countries. To book flights, call us on: 04 23 63460 (Adria AirwaysAviotaxi) or 041 636 420 (pilot).126

Spoznajte letenje v virtualnem svetu z našimi odličnimi inštruktorjiV simulatorju letenja – v 30 minutah za samo 39 EUR (ddv je vključen vceno) – boste spoznali osnove letenja.Za rezervacijo termina in dodatne informacije o obisku simulatorja pošljitee-mail na naslov: ales.bobnar@adria.si; GSM: +386 (0) 41 604 116. Letenjeje možno po plačilu vnaprej in predhodni rezervaciji termina. Več o ponudbipreberite na spletni strani www.adrialetalskasola.si.Learn to fly in a virtual world with our excellent instructors.In our flight simulator you can learn the basics of flying in just 30 minutes for amere 39 euros (VAT included).To book a session and for more information about a visit to the simulator,e-mail us at the following address: ales.bobnar@adria.si; GSM: +386 (0)41604116. Booking essential. Payment in advance.For more information visit www.adrialetalskasola.si.Klubi zvestobe - Loyalty ClubsPartnerska karticaDiners Club-AdriaPotniki s stalnim prebivališčem v Republiki Sloveniji se lahko odločiteza skupno plačilno kartico Diners Cluba in Adrie Airways. Z uporabopartnerske plačilne kartice Diners Club-Adria lahko zbirate milje in koristitenagradne vozovnice in druge ugodnosti v programu Miles & More. Vsakporabljen evro vam bo prinesel 1 miljo. Dogovor, sklenjen med Adrio inklubom Miles & More, prinaša imetnikom partnerske kartice pomembnododatno ugodnost: milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club--Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član. Kartica pa vam odpira vratain nudi brezplačne storitve tudi v več kot 130 letaliških salonih po vsemsvetu, kjer boste lahko v miru počakali na odhod svojega letala, brezplačnoprelistali časopis, se osvežili z napitki, telefonirali ali poslali faks.Informacije: telefon 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.siDiners ClubAdria Partner CardPassengers with permanent residence in Slovenia can obtain the joint DinersClub and Adria Airways charge card. By using the Diners Club – Adria Airwayscharge card, you can collect miles and enjoy bonus tickets and other privilegesin the Miles & More programme. Every euro spent will give you one mile. Theagreement between Adria and Miles & More brings partner card holders animportant additional benefit: miles collected through purchases using the DinersClub- Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at leastthree months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and yousettle your account balance on time. At the same time, the card opens the doorto free services in more than 130 airport lounges around the world, where youcan await your departure in tranquillity, browse through newspapers, enjoy arefreshing drink, make phone calls or send faxes.Information: Telephone: 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si127

ADRIA AIRWAYSStar AllianceStar AlliancePARTNERSTVOAdria Airways je letalski prevoznik z več kot 50-letnimi izkušnjami v čarterskemin rednem prometu. Uspešno sodeluje v evropskih integracijskih tokovihin se partnersko povezuje z drugimi letalskimi prevozniki. Decembra2004 se je Adria kot regionalna članica pridružila največjemu globalnemuzdruženju letalskih prevoznikov Star Allianceu, z januarjem 2010 pa jenapredovala v polnopravno članico združenja.Potnikom zagotavljamo vse prednosti, ki jih prinaša izboljšan dostop dosvetovnega omrežja prevoznikov, združenih v Star Allianceu. V povezavi spartnerji vam omogočamo dostop do svetovne mreže poletov 25 letalskihprevoznikov, ki z več kot 20.500 leti dnevno povezujejo 1.290 destinacij v190 državah.Poleg tega so vam na voljo ugodnosti, ki jih ponujajo prevozniki, člani StarAlliancea, kot so: prijava na let do končne destinacije, priznavanje statusa,vstop v letališke salone ter zbiranje in uveljavljanje točk ali milj v okviruprogramov za pogoste potnike. Za številne destinacije po svetu so vam navoljo potovanja po ugodnejših cenah in posebna ponudba Star AllianceaRound the World – potovanje okoli sveta. Za več informacij smo vam navoljo na naših prodajnih mestih.Star AlliancePartnershipAdria Airways has more than 50 years of experience in operating both charterand scheduled flights. We are successfully participating in the processof European integration and have established partnership arrangementswith other air carriers. In December 2004 Adria joined the Star Alliance, theworld’s largest airline alliance, as a regional member and later became a fullmember in January 2010.Our customers now benefit from improved access to the world-wide StarAlliance network. In connection with our partners, we offer access to a globalnetwork of flights on 25 airlines, which offer more than 20,500 flights dailyserving 1,290 destinations in 190 countries.Moreover, our passengers enjoy customer benefits offered by Star Alliancemember carriers, such as through check-in, status recognition, lounge access,frequent-flyer accrual and redemption. Reduced-price flights are availablefor numerous destinations throughout the world, along with the StarAlliance Round-the-World special offer. We will be glad to provide details atany Adria sales outlet.Letos praznujemo 15. obletnico mreže Star Alliance.Od skromnih začetkov leta 1997, ko je mrežo sestavljalo le pet letalskih prevoznikov,smo zrasli v združenje, ki svoje storitve ponuja s pomočjo več letalskihdružb članic kot katerakoli druga mreža na svetu. Na to smo zelo ponosni.Hkrati s številom pridruženih letalskih prevoznikov je raslo tudi številopotnikov, ki redno letijo z nami. Danes prevažamo 600 milijonov potnikov,ki z našo pomočjo potujejo med več kot 1.290 destinacijami in z več uveljavljenimiletalskimi prevozniki kot pri katerikoli drugi mreži.Združenje Star Alliance ponuja tudi najugodnejše prednosti za pogostepotnike – dostopa do salonov in prednostne obravnave boste deležni privseh letalskih družbah članicah. Poleg tega lahko zdaj še lažje zaslužite inporabite milje z eno samo kartico.Zato se v imenu vseh pridruženih letalskih prevoznikov zahvaljujemopogostim potnikom po vsem svetu.To si zaslužite.Mark Schwabgeneralni direktor Star Alliance Services GmbH.Od 14. maja naprej imate možnost, da na staralliance.com zadenete obiskenega od 27 festivalov po vsem svetu.This year, we celebrate the Star Alliance network’s 15thAnniversary.And having grown from just five airlines in 1997, we couldn’t be more proudto now offer our services across more member airlines than any other networkin the world.As our member airlines have expanded, so has the number of frequent flyersthat choose to fly with us. We now serve 600 million passengers, helping youtravel more seamlessly between over 1,290 destinations and across morerecognised airlines than any other network.The Star Alliance network offers the very best frequent flyer benefits so youcan count on lounge access and priority treatment across all our memberairlines. Plus, it’s never been easier to earn and burn miles on just one card.So on behalf of all our member airlines, to the frequent travellers around theworld, we’d like to say thank you.You’ve earned it.Mark SchwabCEO Star Alliance Services GmbH.From 14th May, you can win the chance to celebrate at one of 27 global festivalsat staralliance.com128

MILES & MOREDobrodošli v Miles & MoreRazlog več, da poletitez Adrio AirwaysAdria Airways nudi svojim pogostim potnikom program Miles & More in jims tem omogoča pestrost zbiranja in uporabljanja milj v celotni mreži poletovčlanic zveze Star Alliance. Sem spadajo tudi vse redne proge Adrie Airways.PrijavaPrijavite se lahko s prijavnico, ki jo dobite na vseh prodajnih mestih in vletalih Adrie Airways, ali pa to storite na naslovu www.adria.si na našihspletnih straneh.Zbiranje miljMilje lahko zbirate na celotni mreži poletov članic zveze Star Alliance. Dodatnemilje lahko zbirate z bivanjem v hotelih, najemom vozil, telefoniranjem,nakupi v določenih trgovinah in z uporabo kreditnih kartic.Podroben seznam vseh partnerjev, ki vas nagrajujejo v okviru Miles & Moreprograma najdete na www.miles-and-more.com v rubriki »Earn miles«.Zbrane milje so veljavne tri leta. Člani Miles & More v Sloveniji lahko pridobijonagradne milje tudi s partnersko plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria. Vsaknakup v vrednosti 1 EUR vam prinese eno miljo. Čas veljavnosti zbranih miljje neomejen, če plačilno kartico uporabljate najmanj 3 mesece, opravite z njovsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnate v roku.Koriščenje miljZbrane milje lahko porabite za številne nagrade: nagradne vozovnice na progahčlanic Star Alliancea, potovanje v višjem razredu, počitniška potovanja,nakup različnih artiklov.Članske karticeZ včlanitvijo postanete član programa in imetnik osnovne kartice. Doseženoštevilo zahtevanih statusnih milj, zbranih v koledarskem letu, zagotavlja višjenivoje članstva, kot so: srebrni član ali Frequent Traveller, zlati član ali Senatorin HON Circle Member. Višji nivo članstva vam prinese posebne ugodnosti. Teso prednost na čakalnih listah, prevoz večje količine prtljage, vstop v oslovnesalone idr. Člansko kartico imejte vedno pri roki, potrebujete jo za beleženjemilj, uveljavljanje ugodnosti in naročanje nagrad. Splošna pravila in pogojiprograma Miles & More so objavljeni na www.miles-and-more.com.RegistrationYou can join the programme by filling in the registration form available at allsales offices and on board Adria Airways aircraft, or by registering online at ourwebsite, www.adria.si.Earning milesYou can collect miles within the entire Star Alliance network. You can also collectadditional miles through hotel stays, car rental, telephone calls, purchases atselected shops and using your credit cards. The complete list of all Miles & Morepartners can be found on www.miles-and-more.com in »Earn miles« section.Miles & More members in Slovenia can also receive award miles with the partnerDiners Club-Adria credit card. Every euro charged earns you 1 mile. Miles collectedthrough purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will notlapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card forat least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time.Spending milesYou can use the miles you have accumulated for various benefits: award ticketson Star Alliance member routes, upgrades to business class, holiday travel andvarious purchases.Membership cardsYou become a member as soon as you join. Accumulating the required numberof status miles in a calendar year leads to higher levels of membership: silvermember or Frequent Traveller, gold member or Senator and HON Circle Member.A higher level of membership offers you special benefits, such as priority onwaiting lists, excess baggage allowance, airport lounge access and so on.Miles are valid for three years. Always have your membership card on hand,because you’ll need it to register miles, claim benefits and request awards.General Terms and Conditions of the Miles & More programme can be found onwww.miles-and-more.com.Welcome aboard Adria Airways, a Star Alliance member!For information on miles, latest news about programme and to order awardtickets or other benefits, call the Miles & More call centre at +386 40 747 440.You’ll be asked for your membership number and PIN code. We’ll be happy totake your calls in Slovene from 8 am to 6 pm. Service is also available in Englishand German outside these hours.Dobrodošli na poletih Adrie Airways, članice združenja Star Alliance!V klicnem centru Miles & More na tel. št. (0)40 747 440 smo vam na voljoza posredovanje informacije o zbranih miljah, o novostih v klubu in zanaročila nagradnih vozovnic ter drugih nagrad. Navesti morate članskoštevilko in PIN kodo. V delovnem času od 8. do 18. ure vam bodo informacijena voljo v slovenskem jeziku, kasneje v angleškem ali nemškem.wELCOME TO Miles & MoreOne more reason forflying Adria AirwaysAdria Airways offers its frequent flyers the chance to join the Miles & Moreprogramme, which makes available a variety of ways to collect and use miles onthe entire flight network of Star Alliance members. All Adria Airways scheduledservices are included in this network.129

ADRIA AIRWAYSProdaja vozovnic in rezervacije - Ticket offices and bookingAdria AirwaysZgornji Brnik 130h4210 Brnik - AerodromKlicni center:tel: +386 (0)1 36 91 010, 080 13 00, FAX: +386 (0)4 25 94 573E-mail: booking@adria.siPoslovalnice / Sales offices:Letališče Jožeta PučnikaLJUBLJANALJUBLJANA Jože PučnikAirportAdria Airways Sales OfficeTel.: +386 (0)4 25 94 245Fax: +386 (0)4 23 63 461E-mail: adr.prodaja@adria.siAMSTERDAMAdria Airways, NetherlandsTel.: +31 20 625 11 22Fax: +32 2 753 23 37Airport Ticketing DeskAmsterdam Schiphol AirportAviapartnerTerminal 1Tel.: +31 20 79 52 600Fax: +31 20 79 52 601E-mail: adr.amsairport@adria.siBARCELONAAdria Airways, General Sales AgentKompas SpainC/ Paris, 162-164 Entlo 2a08036 BarcelonaTel.: + 34 93 246 67 77Fax: +34 93 245 41 88E-mail: adr.barcelona@adria.siBELGRADEAdria Airways General Sales AgentOKI AIR INTERNATIONALAirport “Nikola Tesla”11180 Belgrade 59Tel/Fax: +381 11 2286457,2286458, 2097457E-mail: okiairbeg@oki.me,adr.belgrade@adria.siBRUSSELSAdria AirwaysBrussels Airport – Box 41930 ZaventemTel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 336Fax: +32 (0)2 75 32 337E-mail: adr.brussels@adria.siAdria Airways Ticket DeskFlightcare row 5Airport Zaventem / BrusselsTel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 335COPENHAGENAdria AirwaysRepresentative and InformationA CVITAN ABTings Gatan 2256 56 Helsingborg, SWEDENTel.: +46 (0)42 28 47 78Fax: +46 (0)42 14 47 78Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.sia.cvitan@adria-airways.sevozovnice: info@adria-airways.dkAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskCopenhagen AirportTerminal 2, Floor 2, Office 2302770 Kastrup, DenmarkTel. & Fax: +45 (0)32 51 59 59Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.siFRANKFURTAdria AirwaysFrankfurt AirportTerminal 1, Building 201Room 201. 4043/4044P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am MainTel.: +49 (0)69 269 56 720, 269 56 721Fax: +49 (0)69 269 56 730E-mail: adr.frankfurt@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskFrankfurt Airport, Terminal 1, Hall BSales Desk 307P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am MainTel. +49 (0)69 269 56 722ISTANBULAdria AirwaysAIRPORT OFFICEACMAtatürk International Airport,Departure Level, IDL 38129 Yesilkoy –Istanbul / TURKEYTel: +90 212 465 55 15Fax: +90 212 465 55 16Mob: +90 0530 938 43 20E-mail: adr.istanbul@adria.siLONDON LUTONServiceair Ticketing OfficeDeparture AreaTel.: + 44 (0)1582 753377 int.356Fax.: +44 (0)1582 773388MOSCOWAdria AirwaysDerbenevskaja 4115 114 MoscowTel.: +7 495 727 08 85, 727 08 87Fax: +7 495 727 08 88E-mail: adr.moscow@adria.siAdria AirwaysSheremetyevo AirportTicket office Bohemia2nd floor of terminal FTicketing +7 903 5613645,e-mail: apt-svo@mail.ru,fax +7 495 578 8197Supervisor on duty +7 916 267 2395,e-mail: svokkjp@adria.siMUNICHProsimo, obrnite se na predstavništvov Frankfurtu.Please contact our office in Frankfurt.PODGORICAAdria Airways, General Sales AgentOki Air MontenegroIvana Vujoševića 4681000 PodgoricaTel. & Fax: +382 20 201 201, 201 202,241 154Mobil: +382 67 24 11 54E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si,okiair@oki.meAdria Airways Ticket OfficePodgorica AirportOKI AIR MontenegroTel. & Fax: +382 20 653074Mobil: +382 67 24 11 54E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.siPRISTINAAdria representative office – townofficePal Palucij 3, 38000 PristinaTel.: +381 (0)38 54 34 11Tel. & Fax: +381 (0)38 54 32 85E-mail: adr.pristina@adria.siTicket issue at the airportTel.: +381 (0) 38 548 437Fax: +381 (0) 38 548 437Mobile: +377 44 501 241SARAJEVOAdria AirwaysRepresentative and InformationFerhadija 2371000 SarajevoTel.: +387 (0)33 23 21 25, 23 21 26Fax: +387 (0)33 23 36 92E-mail: adr.sarajevo@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskSarajevo International AirportTel. & Fax: +387 33 464 331SKOPJEAdria AirwaysGeneral Sales: Agent AAM dooelUlica Dame Gruev, Gradski Zid, blok 4/81000 SkopjeTel.: +389 (0)2 31 17 009, 32 29 975Fax: +389 (0)2 31 65 531E-mail: adr.skopje@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket OfficeSkopje AirportTel. +389 (0)2 25 50 133TEL AVIVAdria AirwaysMIRUS SERVICES LtdEL AL BUILDING32 Ben Yehuda Street8th Floor, Room 822Tel Aviv 63432Tel.: +972 (0)3 52 23 161Fax: +972 (0)3 52 40 895Adria Airways Ticket DeskBen Gurion AirportLaufer Aviation Ltd.Tel.: +972 (0)3 97 74 300Fax: +972 (0)3 97 12 022TIRANAAdria Airways AlbaniaEuropian Trade CenterStreet Bajram Curi 19Town OfficeTel.: +355 4 227 4666Tel. & Fax: +355 4 227 2666Mobil Off.: +355 6 94076614AirportTel. & Fax: +355 4 238 1911Mobil in Rinas Apt.: +355 6 94076611E-mail: adr.tirana@adria.siVERONAAIRPORT VALERIO CATULLO VERONAAirport Ticketing OfficeDeparture AreaTel.: +390 45 8619 006Fax.: +390 45 8095 711e-mail: ticket@aeroportoverona.itVIENNAFligt Directors LufttransportvermittlungGes.m.b.HA-1300 Vienna AirportTel.: +43 (1) 879 8705Fax: +43 (1) 876 045311E-mail: pia.karlovic@adria.sip.karlovic@flightdirectors.atZAGREBAdria AirwaysPraška 910000 ZagrebTel.: +385 (0)1 48 10 011, 48 10 016Fax: +385 (0)1 48 10 008E-mail: adr.zagreb@adria.siZÜRICHAdria AirwaysLoewenstrasse 54/II.8001 ZürichTel.: +41 (0)44 212 63 93Fax: +41 (0)44 212 52 66E-mail: adr.zurich@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket OfficeZürich AirportTerminal B-2-521Tel.: +41 (0)43 81 64 437130

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NoVA SeAT IBIZA.SEAT ALHAMBRA 1.4 TSI Reference 110 kW (150 KM) že od 25.569 €To mor'tesami probat!PrimožKozmuswww.avTodegusTacija.siENJOYNEERINGdeGUSTIRAJ IN ZAdeNI NoVo SeAT IBIZo!Nova SEAT Ibiza Ł izjemnega videza s poudarjenimi linijami, novimi barvami in opremo, vključno s sprednjimi inzadnjimi LED-žarometi, ki ubrano dopolnjujejo eleganco in inovativnost. Najnovejši motorji TSI in TDI so zmogljiviin varčni, s čimer ustvarjajo harmonično povezavo med voznikom in cesto.SLedITe NAM NASEAT.SIPovprečna poraba 3,4Ł5,9 l/100 km, povprečne emisije CO 289Ł139 g/km.Porsche Slovenija d.o.o., Bravničarjeva 5, 1000 Ljubljana. Fotografija je simbolična.