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True Comfort FoodOozing history and charm at Halldór’s Café and ResaturantAh Vik! That colourful little village knownfor its black sand beaches and offshorebasalt columns that jut straight up from thesea. A place where the dazzling combinationof pounding surf, majestic glaciers, and steepmountain pastures neatly come together, to formone of the most picturesque villages in Iceland.The 700 km 2 Mýrdalsjökull glacial icecap,which towers above the town, hides thenotorious Katla volcano, which last eruptedin 1918. You will be happy to note that allis quiet on that particular front these days.As if awakening from a long winter’s nap,the sleepy village, (pop. 290) comes to lifeevery spring in anticipation of the arrival ofthe many wide-eyed tourists who all fall inlove with it each summer.The approach to the town from the westis especially captivating; the deep blueshimmering sea comes into view as youwend your way between precipitous slopesthat usher you into the village below. Ona sunny summer’s day when the sea istranquil, the view is magical.In a quiet side street, off the main highway,stands a quaint little wooden house with a richhistory. Built in the Westman Islands in 1831,it was dismantled and then rebuilt in Vík in1895. The building was used continuously asVík’s main retail shop from 1926 to 1980.It is now the home of Halldórskaffi and theTourist Information Centre, which is open insummer from 8.00 am to 8.00 pmHalldórskaffi, open from 11.00 am to11.00 pm, serves simple, yet wholesomemeals throughout the day. I asked ownerKolbrún which are the most popular dishesand without any hesitation, she answers witha smile, ‘the arctic char and the hamburgers’.This is the kind of place that kids and teenswill enjoy as well; tasty, filling, hamburgers,lamb and fish dishes, homemade pizza, soupof the day with home baked bread, and aselection of cakes are all on offer for thehungry traveller. An Icelandic beer, a glass ofwine or other spirits are all options, and maybe just the thing after a long day of sightseeingon Iceland’s charismatic south coast.Halldórskaffi–emvVíkurbraut 28 • 870 Vík+354 847 8844halldorskaffi@gmail.comwww.halldorskaffi.isIdyllic Days at ÞakgilOne of Iceland’s best-kept secretsLet me take you on a journey. But first letme say that if you are on a mad-dash,whirlwind tour of Iceland via the ring road,then this is probably not going to be yourcup of tea. If however, you have the time andinclination to go on a journey of discovery toan off-the beaten-path gem of scenic beauty,then this may be just the place for you.Þakgil - a hiker’s paradise15 km off the ring road, just 5 km fromVík, lies a small enclosed canyon, shelteredon all sides by steep, moss-covered verticalmountains. The floor of the canyon is agrassy plain, about the size of an Americanfootball field, which serves as a camping site.For the less adventurous, nine recently built,snug pine huts are also available for rent. Agurgling brook passes merrily through thecampground and when birds are singingnearby, you can be sure you have justdiscovered a little piece of heaven.A short walk up into a nearby ravinereveals the secret of Þakgil´s source ofelectricity—the smallest hydro-electric plantyou have ever laid eyes on. The campgroundmanagers, Helga and Águst, will be happy togive you the lowdown on its history, as wellas information on several magnificent dayhikes to the nearby Mýrdalsjökull Glacier. Adining hall, set in a large natural cave, comesreplete with cooking grill and a fireplace forwarmth on those cooler summer nights.An alternative to LandmannalaugarGetting to Þakgil is also part of the adventureitself. You will see all manner of weird andwonderful rock formations, scenic panoramicviews that go on forever and even the remainsof no less than two movie sets, Beowulf and theAmerican TV show, ‘Game of Thrones’, parts ofwhich were filmed right here. The gravel road iswell maintained and your average passenger carcan make it all the way to the campsite in about30 minutes. Þakgil certainly has no troublecompeting with the famous Landmannalaugar,which can get quite busy with tourists at theheight of the season.One of the best things about Þakgil isthat it has only become a holiday destinationrather recently. Before 2000, the majority ofIcelanders had never been here, making thisone of Iceland’s best kept secrets.–emvTjaldstæðið ÞakgiliHöfðabrekkuafrétti • 870 Vík+354 893 4889124 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 125helga@thakgil.iswww.thakgil.is