Rita Rudner

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Sustenanceby Lyn DobrinHerbsPlants with a PurposeNow is the beginning of fresh herb season, when the perennials herbssuch as mint and thyme and chives return to our gardens and we plantseedlings of basil and dill.Herbs can define a dish or a cuisine, adding character and interest.Imagine pizza without oregano or basil, Manhattan clam chowder withoutthyme or Bernaise sauce minus tarragon. Herbs have been describedas plants with a purpose and have added flavor to cooking early in humanhistory. There is considerable evidence that wild garlic made itsway into the cooking pots of semi-nomadic hunter-gatherers more than10,000 years ago.I asked some Long Island chefs to tell us about their can’t-do-withoutherbs.Bay leaf, basil, parsley and oregano abound in Maddalena Sacramone’skitchen at the new Sac’s Place in East Meadow and at the originalSac’s in Astoria, reflecting her Abruzzi heritage. For her tomato sauce,besides salt, black pepper and garlic, Sacramone uses whole nutmeg,basil, oregano and bay leaf to give the sauce more complexity and depth.She says that parsley is a must for meatballs and barbeque lamb needsolive oil and oregano for basting. A favorite dish is sliced baked rosemarypotatoes.Deborah Pittorino, owner and executive chef at Cuvee Bistro andBar in Greenport, is a fan of Thai basil, an aromatic flavor for savory andsweet dishes. “We use it in salads and our Thai basil gimlet,” she says.She likes lavender for desserts, incorporating it into shortbread cookiesand cocktails. “Wild fennel is a perfect accompaniment to seafood,” shesays and uses it in her bouillabaisse.Steven DeBruyn, the executive chef at the Garden City Hotel, hasthree favorites: French tarragon, lovage and chives. “Tarragon is just sogreat with lobster, peas, in a béarnaise, in a salad, and is one of my favoritesin an omelet with chives. The omelet was one of the meals he usedMaddalena Sacramone and sonsto make for dinner as a staff meal in his restaurantin Belgium. Lovage,though rarely usedin US restaurants,is a popular herb inEurope. It is strongflavored but De-Bruyn says if used inthe right amount,it is delicious. Insummer, he makesa tabbouleh-likeHerbs can definea dish or acuisine, addingcharacter andinterest.salad with quinoaand an herb mixture of basil, mint and parsley. Thechives find their way into many dishes and the palepurple blossoms, taken apart into tiny flowers, areperfect garnishes, especially on hors d’oeuvres.Chefs always seek to have lots of fresh herbs onhand, even if it means growing their own. JoeRealmuto at Nick & Toni’s in East Hampton growsherbs in the garden behind the restaurant; JamesCarpenter of The Living Room (at The Maidstonein East Hampton) grows herbs in a small gardenbehind the Inn that are used at the restaurant;and Jason Weiner of Almond works a co-op gardenat Bridgehampton School that he uses itemsfrom at the restaurant.Most herbs require very little attention, usually justa sunny spot and some water. The reward is the additionof freshness and wonderful taste. 20April 2012To advertise: 516-505-0555 x1 or ads@liwomanonline.com
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Rita Rudner

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