Di spatches|sudanA sandstorm approaches.June 29, 2008At school in SudanIfinally hand out school supplies todayto impoverished elementary schoolgirls, near <strong>Dilling</strong> University. It’s adirty school that’s falling apart but smiling,laughing girls look at us from thewindows and mill around us in theyard. I hope we can help them with moresupplies. Is this the correct way to goabout helping? I’m not sure. But it feelsgood. The principal is pretty emotional.I am embarrassed because he thanks meas if it’s all my doing and it isn’t. I haveto go back this afternoon to hand out thesupplies. I don’t want to – do not wantto hand out one little crayon or pencil orsomething to one kid. They should keepthe supplies in a cupboard and dole themout as needed. We give them painfullylittle. It hurts to watch their gratitude. Ihope my friends will help out.22These first supplies, probably threeto four cardboard boxes, consist <strong>of</strong> thesimple things needed by students: paper,pens and pencils, erasers, and so forth,and were left in our storage container by,I think, the previous Canadian UNMOswho had run out <strong>of</strong> time. In our militaryobserver team, only the Canadians andthe Dutch are fortunate enough to havehad their militaries organize mail deliveryservice and it’s huge for morale. However,the Canadians are restricted in what canbe sent via the Canadian Forces postal servicebecause priority is given to militaryequipment over personal things. So humanitariansupplies are a no-go, althoughwe are able to sneak some through, thanksto family and friends. Success.Every day, we see the children walkingto school. Every school – boys and girlsare segregated – has its distinct uniformand always these uniforms are clean andpressed. I see multiple children on onebicycle. I see little girls walking to schoolwith plastic chairs from home balancedon their heads, because their school hasno furniture. I see older girls laughingand giggling with their heads together. IfI close my eyes, these could be the sounds<strong>of</strong> children in any school in Canada. Theproblem is, I can’t close my eyes.A marked difference is the family <strong>of</strong>nine that hangs around outside our campfence. Every morning, as the sun rises,they arrive, ready to collect the emptyplastic bottles we’d thrown over the fencefor them. Occasionally the mother is withthem, always pregnant, always smiling.Where do they live? What do they dowith the bottles? How can they stand theheat out there in the open? Why are theyalways laughing and smiling? Why arethey so amazed that I befriend their dog,Boutros? We give them old clothing andother items, which we are fairly certainthey will sell in the market.Back to the plastics, that wonderfullegacy left to the Sudanese from the west-SPRING 09 | APR–JUN
sudan|Di spatches“We give them painfully little. It hurts to watch their gratitude.”all the water pour out the doors. It wouldbe perfect if a fish or two came out as well,like in a Hollywood comedy.I turn around to winch him out andget badly stuck myself in the beach sand.I don’t follow my own tracks back –dummy. Have to wait hours for a tractor topull me out. The team is wonderful – twoJordanians, one Romanian, one Thai, threeSudanese and one Canadian – with greatspirits, work ethic and humour.Anyway, so much for being the expertwinter driver (“Driving in mud? Ha! Thisis nothing compared to driving in the wintersnows <strong>of</strong> Canada.”)The essence <strong>of</strong> this story for me is thejasmine flower overleaf. (I tape a nowtruly-wilted bloom in my journal). Theschool buildings we investigate all havebricked-up windows. Why? Turns outthe Sudanese Armed Forces (North) barricadedthemselves in them during theearlier years <strong>of</strong> fighting. Consequentlythere are bullet holes everywhere, insideand out. As I walked over to one building,I notice a wonderful fragrance in the airand petals on the ground. “Jasmine,” I amtold. Oh, it is such a great smell – calming,sweet, happy. You can still smell iton these pages <strong>of</strong> my journal. And here Iam counting bullet holes, while standingon a carpet <strong>of</strong> jasmine and enveloped inthe most peaceful fragrance. How sad.How very sad. Once again, the Sudanesedichotomy.In Sudan, taking pictures is risky business.ern world. The plastic bag and the plasticbottle are the most obvious and enduringlegacy <strong>of</strong> the modern world. They’re leftto lie everywhere, collecting on fences, incorners and in piles <strong>of</strong> dirt.The other legacy <strong>of</strong> Sudan, the children,are its future. But this sad country with itswonderful children needs help. Nobodycould visit and not feel the way I do. I callit happy-sad. Their huge white-toothedsmiles, which light up their faces, makeyou happy to see, yet also make you incrediblysad.August 20, 2008Jasmine and bullet holesOur joint monitoring teams alwaysincludes a national monitor fromeach side, a language assistant,patrol leader and two or more United NationsMilitary Observers. Our team is onpatrol in our white 4 x 4s. We know it isgoing to rain and we are far away fromcamp. Did I say rain? This is not rain aswe know it in Canada. Here, in the rainyseason, what pours from the sky is a rivergone vertical. Mix this with roads thatin Canada we wouldn’t even describe aswide trails and you have morass, whichis a word I have always wanted to usebut not experience. Thank goodness forpower winches and GPS.It is a wild day. Two villages, twoinvestigations. Wonderful kids at theschool, as usual. They come running outto look at the kawaja and laugh at myArabic. They are what this UN missionis, or should be, about. We do okay untilwe run into a flash-flooded river. I makeit across, with my yelping, pessimisticJordanian navigator at my side, screamingthat we are going to drown. I use the termnavigator loosely, as he still swears weare 20 miles <strong>of</strong>f target when we arrive inthe village. But it is a close-call. Our teamleader gets stuck mid-river in his vehicle.It’s fun to watch everyone bail out and seeMy Canadian colleague’s schoolIwas fortunate to serve with Lieutenant(Navy) Janan Sutherland. Janan is inhis late 20s, originally from Windsor,Ontario and currently employed as aninstructor at the Canadian Forces recruitschool in St. Jean, Quebec. He is a reasonyou should be proud <strong>of</strong> the CanadianForces, and he is partly responsible forwhy its members rise to the top <strong>of</strong> everymission they are on. Quiet, super-competent,honest, humble and a natural leader,Janan was good company, especially sobecause he saw in me an older, sage-likepersonality and therefore gave me morerespect than I deserved. I milked it for allit was worth.We <strong>of</strong>ten made patrols to outlying villages,well <strong>of</strong>f road and far away from ourteam site. The purpose was usually to dosecurity assessments to see if the villageswere having problems with banditry, rovingsoldiers, nomads stealing cattle and s<strong>of</strong>orth. This day we ended up in Kortala,the home village <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> our interpret-diplomat and international canada 23