DELIGHTS|BOOKSThe great non-existentBhutan conspiracyBy George FetherlingOur Books section provides a comprehensivelook at books on Bhutan, Tibetand philanthropy. Here is a list <strong>of</strong> the16 titles mentioned.Mad Dogs, James GradyJames Grady is a thriller writer (one<strong>of</strong> the “50 to read before you die”,according to the Daily Telegraph inLondon) whose new CIA conspiracy yarn,Mad Dogs, has quickly made its mark withreaders — and with Hollywood as well.But it is unlikely to surpass the success<strong>of</strong> his Six Days <strong>of</strong> the Condor, publishedin 1974. The following year, that book becamea Robert Redford movie called ThreeDays <strong>of</strong> the Condor, its time-span obviouslyreduced by half so as to speed up the action.Either way, it’s quite a fine thriller,despite one enormous glitch in the plot.The protagonist is a low-level CIA employeein New York whose job is to readall new spy thrillers as they are published.He is to look for possible security leaksrelating to company techniques and gadgets.But he also stays alert for tricks andhardware that have come straight from theauthors’ imaginations but which the boysin Langley might consider copying. Hebegins to grow suspicious that so manyspy tales are being translated into Arabicbut not into any <strong>of</strong> the western Europeanlanguages. His curiosity leads him to uncoveran illicit CIA programme designedto safeguard America’s supply <strong>of</strong> MiddleEastern oil.Mr. Grady should have known, as otherauthors do, that the question <strong>of</strong> whichworks gets translated in which foreigncountries is purely as a matter <strong>of</strong> chanceand is not susceptible to logical explanation.One <strong>of</strong> my recent books, to use theeasiest example at hand, was publishedin Japanese (not unusual in the least)and also in Czech and Bulgarian, butnot in, say, French, Spanish or German.There was no conspiracy here. The resultswere simply a matter <strong>of</strong> which Canadianpublisher happened to have once had adrink with opposite numbers from Pragueand S<strong>of</strong>ia. In modern times, introducingpublishers and their editors to colleaguesin other countries has largely been thepurpose <strong>of</strong> the Frankfurt Book Fair (whichwas founded in 1480).Still, if one were prone to crackpot theories,one might be forgiven for suspectingthat there is indeed a Canadian conspiracyinvolving Bhutan, the ruggedly mountainousand predominately Buddhist state <strong>of</strong>only a million or fewer people, bordered26istockSix Days <strong>of</strong> the Condor, James GradyBeyond the Sky and the Earth: AJourney into Bhutan, Jamie ZeppaButter Tea at Sunrise: A Year in theBhutan Himalaya, Britta DasUnder the Holy Lake: A Memoir <strong>of</strong>Eastern Bhutan, Ken HaighChina’s Great Train: Beijing’s DriveWest and the Campaign to RemakeTibet, Abrahm LustgartenThe Old Patagonian Express, PaulTherouxGhost Train to the Eastern Star: On theTracks <strong>of</strong> the Great Railway Bazaar,Paul TherouxThe Great Railway Bazaar, PaulTherouxSaint Jack, Paul TherouxThe London Embassy, Paul TherouxHalf Moon Street, Paul TherouxThe Elephanta Suite, Paul TherouxA Blue Hand: The Beats in India,Deborah BakerA Place Within: Rediscovering India,M.G. VassanjiUnderstanding Philanthropy: ItsMeaning and Mission, Robert T.Payton and Michael P. Moodyby the topmost reaches <strong>of</strong> India on theeast, south and west and by China onthe north. A relatively short distance tothe west lies the somewhat similar (butHindu) state <strong>of</strong> Nepal, which is far betterknown, more deeply understood andmore <strong>of</strong>ten visited. For until recently, tourismin Bhutan was actually forbidden, andonly a small handful <strong>of</strong> English-languagebooks, or portions <strong>of</strong> books, were givenover to the strange little place it is today.Most <strong>of</strong> these were guide books, aimedat the sort <strong>of</strong> hardy travellers who havealready had their fill <strong>of</strong> Tibet.When Beyond the Sky and the Earth: AJourney into Bhutan by Jamie Zeppa <strong>of</strong> Torontowas published by Doubleday Canadain 1999, it drew an immense amount<strong>of</strong> publicity because <strong>of</strong> its sheer noveltyas well as its style. The small portion <strong>of</strong>the public concerned with the region wasprimed for the book’s appearance by theway Bhutan was losing its Shangri-la imagein the face <strong>of</strong> democracy, televisionand the Internet.Canadian volunteers have being goingto Bhutan for years. They have helpedthe society, which is wretchedly poor, inimproving its medical and educationalinstitutions, for example. One such humanitarianis Britta Das, a Toronto physiotherapist,who returned home with suchstriking photographs <strong>of</strong> Bhutanese life thatJamie Zeppa suggested she write a bookto go with them. The result is Butter Teaat Sunrise: A Year in the Bhutan Himalaya,published recently by Dundurn Press($24.99 paper).The latest evidence <strong>of</strong> what even sinisterand cynical-minded people could viewonly as a most benevolent conspiracy indeedis Ken Haigh’s book Under the HolyLake: A Memoir <strong>of</strong> Eastern Bhutan ($29.99paper), which lists Ms. Zeppa’s work inits wild-ranging bibliography <strong>of</strong> bookson Bhutan in various languages. Thathis book in fact has such a bibliographyis illustrative <strong>of</strong> Mr. Haigh’s publisher,SPRING 09 | APR–JUN
DELIGHTS|Booksthe University <strong>of</strong> Alberta Press, whosestrength (other than informing readersabout all aspects <strong>of</strong> Alberta) is the way it<strong>of</strong>ten tries to unite high-quality prose withscholarly worth to reinforce that thirdstream <strong>of</strong> publishing: sophisticated booksfor educated lay people, works meatierthan most so-called trade titles withoutbeing so dryly incomprehensible as manyacademic ones. The U <strong>of</strong> A books are usuallyinteresting for their design as well.Mr. Haigh, another Ontarian, spent twoyears teaching in Bhutan, returning 40pounds lighter with “an infection <strong>of</strong> giardia,head lice, some lovely flea bite scars,and a tapeworm” — and a love <strong>of</strong> theplace that compelled him to go back for afurther year. His book is knowledgeable,thoughtful, humane and stylish.The Dalai Lama’s worst nightmareFrom his place <strong>of</strong> exile in northern India,the Dalai Lama, who sometimesseems to be the Martha Stewart <strong>of</strong>eastern spirituality, must have had toconfront the facts in 2006, admitting tohimself that the jig was finally up for thedream <strong>of</strong> Tibetan independence. Whattook place in July that year was the opening<strong>of</strong> the Sino-Tibetan railway’s finalstretch, connecting Golmud in QinghaiProvince to Lhasa, the Tibetan capital.As Golmud already had a link to Xining,also in Qinghai, and crack trains had longbeen running from Xining to Beijing, theprobable geopolitical future <strong>of</strong> Tibet wasnow clear. Tibetans would be movingen masse into China while a great manymore Chinese would move to Tibet. Intime, the culture and habits <strong>of</strong> the People’sRepublic must finally Sinoise those <strong>of</strong>what, since China’s invasion in 1951, has<strong>of</strong>ficially been called the Tibetan AutonomousRegion.Such is part <strong>of</strong> the thesis that AbrahmLustgarten, a writer for Fortune in NewYork, pursues in China’s Great Train:Beijing’s Drive West and the Campaign toRemake Tibet (Random House <strong>of</strong> Canada,$29), in which he focuses at considerablelength on four individuals. One is a teenagerthrough whose small community thetrain now runs; another is Renzin Tashi,a shopkeeper in Lhasa who finds that hisclientele is now largely Chinese.Representing the other side <strong>of</strong> the coinis Zhang Luxin, <strong>of</strong> China’s Ministry <strong>of</strong>Railways, who devoted 30 years to furtheringplans for the proposed line, whichhad its origins in 1955. That is, at the samehistorical moment at which Dwight Eisenhowerin the U.S. was pushing ahead withown dream <strong>of</strong> the massive and massivelydestructive Interstate highway system.President Eisenhower’s intention was touse the freeways to evacuate American citiesif and when Soviet bombers appearedin the sky. By contrast, Zhang and hismasters wanted only to tighten their gripon Tibet. To this ambition, more recentChinese leaders have added the dream <strong>of</strong>other new lines that would open CentralAsia to Chinese goods while taking out oilfrom Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan and theMuslim east more generally. The endeavourwill cover 21,000 kilometres and costat least US$100 billion.None <strong>of</strong> that will be easy, to judge fromthe experience <strong>of</strong> Cheng Guodong, thelast <strong>of</strong> Mr. Lustgarten’s symbolic quartet.Mr. Cheng was charged with figuring outhow to lay track across 550 kilometres <strong>of</strong>permafrost, equal to less than a third <strong>of</strong>the line overall. Other engineering challengesmet during construction <strong>of</strong> theGolmud-Lhasa line related to the fact that80 per cent <strong>of</strong> this leg is through countrymore than 4,000 metres in height and inone place, 5,072 metres. Of the many tunnels,one close to Lhasa comes in at 4,264metres. There are 675 bridges as well.Mr. Lustgarten is much too newspaperya writer to carry <strong>of</strong>f the use <strong>of</strong> four disparatepersonalities to relate the story he hasto tell. As for politics and economics, thebook — the literary equivalent <strong>of</strong> an engineeringproblem, as all serious non-fictionmust be — is pretty thin on subtlety andnuance, as thin as the air in the Himalayathat compels passengers to reach for theoxygen bottles supplied by the Ministry<strong>of</strong> Railways.Writers <strong>of</strong> travel narrative, inhabiting asemi-fictional realm, <strong>of</strong>ten do better thanreporters at this type <strong>of</strong> fact-gatheringassignment, because they come with theability to reveal rather than just record.One example: Paul Theroux, who in the1970s made rail travel a popular topicagain with such influential books as TheGreat Railway Bazaar (1975) and The OldPatagonian Express (1979). Prior to theformer book’s appearance, he was considereda not terribly important novelist,if admittedly a prolific one. Now, slowlyclosing in on his 70th birthday, he returnsto the scope and sweep <strong>of</strong> those earlytravel books with Ghost Train to the EasternStar: On the Tracks <strong>of</strong> the Great RailwayBazaar (McClelland & Stewart, $34.99). Hisitinerary begins in London and takes himthrough such places as Iran, India, Burma,Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, Japan andRussia. Many <strong>of</strong> these countries are oneshe described 30-some years ago. Revisitingthem now, he is able to suss out howin the interim virtually all <strong>of</strong> them havechanged beyond recognition politically,economically and culturally.What hasn’t changed a whit is the personahe uses on the page. He always hascome across as a sourpuss, a dour travellerand a sometimes disputatious one as well.When you come right down to it, the voicethat narrates Mr. Theroux’s books (whichis not necessarily the same as Mr. Theroux’sin-person voice) <strong>of</strong>ten seems impatientwith foreigners. In travel narratives,Fine art fromCanada andaround theworldJustin Wonnacott photograph7 Hamilton Ave. N.Ottawa613 728 1750Cubegallery.caHours: 10-5pm(except Mon.& Tues.)diplomat and international canada 27